Magazine lowres

to say, “Ingredients are key.” They only work with EMPANADA
high quality ingredients. There is also the added
advantage of owning a bus company that can bring An empanada (Spanish pronunciation: [empaˈnaða]) is
ingredients in daily from Ilocos. It guarantees the a stuffed bread or pastry that is either baked or fried. The
authenticity of their products. Another factor that name comes from the Spanish verb empanar, meaning to
can’t be disputed is the recall of the Fariñas family wrap or coat in bread.
name, which is well known in the political arena.
This has given them a pronounced advantage in Though empanadas originated from Spain, more and more
brand recall. countries have adopted it. There is the samosa of India, the
pierogi of Poland, the Brazilian pastel, Cuban pastelitos, the
Hazel’s advise to would-be entrepreneurs, “It is hand pies, turnovers, pastechis, empanadillas, and the various
important to trust your employees and to treat local versions in the Philippines.
them well. They will give back to you what you
deserve.” She says being hands-on is important, as Savory fillings are the norm; with chicken, pork, beef, and
well as being honest in business transactions and lamb as favorite ingredients, though any filling will do. They
in dealing with suppliers and customers. All these can be eaten as is or with a dipping sauce. Sweet empanadas
will give the business credibility and the owners’ are great for dessert and are best served with tea or coffee.
peace of mind.
The most popular empanada dough is made with wheat flour,
The Fariñas family still can’t believe their luck, though it can also be made from corn flour or corn meal,
considering all this success came from what was mashed plantains, potatoes, sweet potatoes, or cassava. Sweet
simply something for their children to do over the empanada dough can be made with chocolate or almond flour
summer. Of course, luck probably had very little and spiced with cinnamon, cloves, citrus rinds, and other
to do with it. Much of it was business acumen and flavors.
personal ethics, and the willingness to do what was
necessary. Add to that are the blessings that come In the Philippines, empanada is usually filled with savory
from their desire to help the small businessmen ingredients. The most popular ingredients are chicken or
from the region they call “home.” ● Aileen I. Jaraza ground pork, with potatoes or camote, carrots, green peas, and
raisins. It can be fried or baked. There are also unique types
like the empanada de kaliskis (with scales), which have a very
flaky crust of many layers, and the huge fried empanadas of
the Ilocos region.

WWW.WOFEX.COM 49

REGIONAL FOOD: CENTRAL LUZON

THE
CHANGING
FOODSCAPES
OF THE
CENTRAL
PLAINS

Central Luzon, or Region 3, Region 3 is made up of the active volcanoes. It lies north of
is also known as the “Rice provinces of Aurora, Bataan, Manila Bay, running from the tip of
Granary of the Philippines,” Bulacan, Nueva Ecija, Pampanga, the Bataan peninsula to all the lands
as it has the largest plain that Tarlac, and Zambales. Its seven north of the Caraballo Mountains.
produces most of the country’s rice provinces comprise 14 cities and 116 It is the longest contiguous area of
supply. It is largely agricultural, with municipalities. Its easy access from lowlands, so is also called the “Central
fishing, food processing, and mining Metro Manila makes it a favorite Plains of Luzon.” The beaches of
counting as other major industries. getaway for day trips or weekend Aurora, Bataan, and Zambales are
The Clark Special Economic Zone in adventures, and also makes it an incomparable wonders; one can even
Pampanga and Subic Bay Freeport ideal option for businesses that go surfing in the beaches of Baler.
Zone in Zambales, the Philippines’ cannot locate in the Central Business
premier eco-zones, are also located District. This region is steeped in history.
in this region. Clark also boasts an The nation’s first constitution was
international airport. The region is a blend of majestic drafted at the Barasoain Church
mountains, deep harbors, lush in Malolos, which also became
farmlands, and both extinct and the first Capital of the Republic

50 WORLD FOOD REGIONAL FOOD

Drive to Pampanga for a wonderful lunch, merienda or dinner
at Chef Sau del Rosario’s Cafe Fleur.

before President Emilio Drive North recipes are original Filipino, prepared
Aguinaldo moved it to to Café Fleur using French culinary techniques. But
San Isidro, Nueva Ecija. added to this, Sau has played around
It is also known for When Chef Sau del Rosario decided with textures and put his own spin
its many Spanish-era to come home to the Philippines, he on the plating and presentation. The
churches, old houses, and was leaving behind a distinguished result is a beautiful balance of eye
its outstanding cuisine, career in the international culinary candy and pleasure for the palate. Who
particularly popular scene. He soon discovered that it would think to serve tamales in a glass
are the provinces of was a homecoming that was meant to – chilled like a mousse, topped with
Pampanga and Bulacan. be, as several lucrative opportunities flowers, and served with bread rolls? It
People from other regions immediately came his way. He was is one dish that has made Café Fleur
have been known to travel able to open several restaurants for his a foodie’s destination.
all the way to the cities patrons; he got the chance to be
and towns of Region 3 in a celebrity chef on television; he wrote In a town where everyone is a good
search of gastronomical his first cookbook; and he opened his cook, it takes a strong-willed person
delights. very own restaurant in his hometown. to invest in a restaurant serving
local food. It was a challenge that
WWW.WOFEX.COM “Coming full circle” is how he describes Sau welcomed. He knew the locals
his putting up his own dining place in would have something to say about
Angeles City in Pampanga, and not in his food, his years of working in Paris
Manila, as many expected him to. notwithstanding. But he was ready for
Café Fleur is Sau’s tribute to his mother, it, otherwise he says, “Mamatay ka sa
who taught him to love food and kutya.” (You will die from the insults.)
flowers. In a refurbished art deco house,
he set up a simple restaurant offering As expected, they were appalled by
his own take on Kapampangan food. his tamales in a glass. “Bakit mo
sinamahan ng tinapay?” (Why are you
He refers to his menu as “avant-garde,” serving it with bread?) But one taste
meaning “experimental.” All his

51

and they knew that his taste buds were
still true blue Kapampangan. “Masarap
naman pala,” they recanted.

Sau has a very good reason for
throwing caution to the wind and
going all out in presenting his food
differently. He says, nowadays, food
has to be Instagrammable, particularly
as his market is those aged 25 and
below. “They will not eat tamales
wrapped in banana leaves. It has to
be pretty. Something they can relate
to, and something they can take nice
photos of,” he says.

How is Sau’s restaurant faring, away Chef Sau del Rosario is back for good in his hometown, opening two
from Manila where he has established restaurants that are fast becoming gastronomic destinations.
a name for himself? It is doing very
well considering its infancy. Two-
thirds of his patrons come from Manila
and adjacent provinces. Sometimes he
even gets busloads of students or tour
groups. Café Fleur has received very
good reviews for dishes like the kare-
kare made with macadamia nuts, lamb
shank kaldereta, and rellenong bangus.
The dessert selection is his Pinoy take
on the classics – Bibingka Cheesecake,
Lechemon (his version of custard cake),
Brazo de Calamansi, and his signature
dessert, Jackfruit Sansrival. Wash it
all down with local coffee or Tsokolate
Batirol.

Café Fleur exemplifies the basics of Pampanga is a foodie haven, there are Sau’s second restaurant offers a farm-
a destination restaurant. For one, many other eating places around to try, to-table concept, with a menu he calls
there is no branch in Manila, so one and a wealth of food pasalubong that “creative,” meaning it is based on what
will have to drive all the way down to can be purchased. A meal at Café Fleur is available. The name “25 Seeds” is
Angeles City. If one plans to see more is truly worth the trip. taken from the fact that he planted
of the province or the region, lodgings 25 different seeds when the project
are available. In fact, directly across As if being a destination restaurant started. It is in another old house that
the restaurant is a hotel. Guests will is not difficult enough, try being one he has renovated, and hopes it will
definitely be treated to an unforgettably in one of the culinary capitals of the become a new destination for foodies
unique dining experience – from the Philippines. It is probably only the from Metro Manila and the nearby
food and drinks, the ambiance, the likes of well-known Kapampangans provinces. The restaurant opened this
history of the house, the young but like Sau del Rosario and Claude Tayag October 25 to celebrate his 25th year as
enthusiastic wait staff (most are HRIM who would dare to put up, not just one, a chef. It was also, coincidentally, his
graduates of local schools), and, if you but two restaurants in their hometown. birthday. ● Cris C. Abiva
are lucky, the presence of Chef Sau Sau recently also opened 25 Seeds, his
who can talk ceaselessly about the follow-up endeavor after Café Fleur,
food of Pampanga and Filipino food while Claude has Bale Dutung and
in general. As an added plus, because Downtown 1956 Café.

52 WORLD FOOD REGIONAL FOOD

One-of-a-kind desserts, from top to bottom: Signature dishes of Cafe Fleur, from top to bottom: Crispy
Lechemon, Brazo de Calamansi, Chocolate Pork Belly and Truffled Macadamia Kare-Kare, Tamales
Sans Rival, and Bibingka Cheesecake Pampanguena, and Lamb Shank Caldereta.

WWW.WOFEX.COM 53

TRENDS

DESTINATION
RESTAURANTS

ARE mAKING WAVES

Would you travel hundreds of miles
to eat a sandwich? Get on a plane and

travel halfway around the world for
a seriously good dessert? Drive for hours

to partake of a degustacion dinner? If
your answer is yes, then destination
restaurants are right up your alley.

What Makes a Great Destination Restaurant?

• It offers a unique dining experience striking • It offers guests something they can bring
a good balance and blend of food, ambiance, home as pasalubong – like local sweets,
comfort, and service. produce, pastries, and even non-food items
like local handicrafts.
• Value for money is a must, as guests are not
just spending for the food, but for traveling • Should be ‘Instagrammable’ or at least make
expenses. sure your table set-up and interiors are
conducive for the all-important photo op.
• Reservations are entertained, if not required,
so diners will feel like honored guests and • Participates in cross promotions with
know that they will not be turned away. local government units (LGUs) and other
entrepreneurs, and in social media marketing
• Should use locally sourced ingredients and activities and promotions.
serve local food, but ensure that food quality
and presentation are a step up from the usual.

54 WORLD FOOD TRENDS

One of the key considerations exceptional cuisine that is more than The Next Food
when opening a restaurant worth the journey. Destination:
is location. Things like foot The Philippines
traffic, accessibility, parking, visibility, As of 2013, it has had 14 editions
and safety must be carefully studied covering 23 countries. Chefs and The Philippines has its own share
and weigh greatly when choosing the restaurateurs take great pride in of destination restaurants, though
final site. Yet there are restaurants their Michelin stars, as many diners not to the extent that they have
in far-flung places, isolated islands, take them to heart and go out of been established in Europe and
and hard-to-find locations that draw their way to dine in Michelin-star the U.S. Tagaytay City is one of the
a following and a decent profit, despite establishments. In the same way easiest areas to reach for day trips
being off the beaten track and away that the stars are rewarded, they or weekend retreats. The booming
from frequented restaurant rows. can also be taken back or revoked, gastronomy scene in this city is
no matter how famous the chef or evident in the opening of new hotels
Will Travel to Eat restaurant is, with good reason, of and eating and drinking places.
course. There have also been rare Other areas that have become
A “destination restaurant” is one that occasions when chefs have refused food pilgrimage sites are Laguna,
people need to travel way out of their the honor. Cavite, Cebu, Bacolod, and, of course,
way to visit. Obviously, its appeal Pampanga.
must be fairly strong to be worth the Expeditions
trip, and the cost of reaching it, and it for a Great Meal Pampanga is home to the destination
must be able to draw customers from restaurants of two well-known chefs,
beyond its environs. The main draw Food geeks have been known to plan – Sau del Rosario and Claude Tayag.
is the food, though sometimes it may a trip to some far-away place just Though both offer Kapampangan
also be the chef. Some say half of to have a meal – calling it a “food fare, it is exciting to see how they
the fun is actually finding the place, pilgrimage.” It must really be a good have different executions and
though with all the direction apps meal if one has to travel by car, train, presentations of their dishes. Laguna
available today, this may no longer be bus, boat, or even plane, for not just an is turning out to be a haven for food
part of the lure. hour, but for several – and sometimes tourists, as more dining places are
even for a day, or two. opening up, as well as bed-and-
This type of dining place is said to breakfasts and hotels. Tagaytay
have originated from the “Michelin In European countries like Belgium, City, on the other hand, continues to
Guides of France,” which were Holland, and France, lodgings be the go-to place due to its relative
designed to help motorists and actually crop up near destination proximity to the Metro and because
travelers find decent lodging and restaurants, so travelers can relax top chef Tony Boy Escalante, of
good food while touring the country. before and after their meals. A trend “Antonio’s” fame, continues to open
The Michelin Guide has been one that has been going on for some time up more outlets like Breakfast at
of the most respected travelers’ is the establishing of an area with Antonio’s, Antonio Grille, and Balay
handbooks. The famed manual has several destination restaurants, so Dako. Homegrown Bag of Beans, has
been evaluating and recommending that travelers can maximize their also expanded, with three new outlets
restaurants for over a century, and trip and experience several eating to keep hungry travelers happy.
for a long time now, it has not been places in one visit. This is where
limited to France. Stars are given to accommodations become necessary. Filipino food is slowly but surely
restaurants that pass the muster of It is good for those living in the area, getting noticed in the global food
inspectors. The ratings are based on as it is not only restaurateurs who scene. Foreign chefs have been
the quality of the products, mastery profit from the “food tourists,” but coming to visit to learn about local
of flavor and cooking, the personality the community as well – especially food, the cuisine is getting more
of the cuisine, value for money, and if there are other attractions aside media attention in foreign food
consistency between visits. One from the food. A good destination shows, food lovers are starting to
star for a very good restaurant in restaurant need not be Michelin- discover the Philippines as a food
its category, two stars for one with starred, but it must definitely be destination, and the country just
excellent cooking and worth a detour, worth the trip. successfully staged the second
and three stars for a restaurant with Madrid Fusión Manila. ● Cris C. Abiva

WWW.WOFEX.COM 55

REGIONAL FOOD: CENTRAL LUZON

Taking Home

a Slice of

PAMPANGA

Avisit to Pampanga means She started out cooking merienda
one of two things – eating for friends who enjoyed her food so
and bringing home food much, that they encouraged her to
pasalubong. Everyone knows that open a carinderia. From this humble
Kapampangans are among the best beginning, Anicia was able to grow
cooks, so it is no surprise that people the business into an enterprise with
go there to eat – be it at someone’s eighteen branches, most of which are
home or in a restaurant. As the still in Pampanga. The other shops
province has a rich culinary heritage are located in Tarlac, Pangasinan, and
and living legends who can talk about Quezon City. Today, it is Susie and her
the history of Pampanga’s food, food husband, Glen Yabut, who are at the
tours are also popular. helm of the company.

If there is one place where travelers There really is no secret to the success
often end up when they are in this of Susie’s Cuisine, as everyone knows
part of Region 3, it is Susie’s Cuisine. it is the unchanging quality of the food,
Whether it is to have lunch or especially the pancit palabok, tibok-
merienda or to buy food to bring back tibok, and moche – the company’s
home, this is the place to go. signature dishes. Other pancit dishes
are also available like pancit Malabon,
Anicia Ayson started her business bihon guisado, sotanghon, and canton.
in the Nepo Market in 1972 selling
kakanin and pancit palabok. Her Myra Feliciano, the branch manager
store was named after her adoptive of the Nepo branch in Angeles City
daughter, Jesusa – nicknamed “Susie.” where WF visited, gave us additional

56 WORLD FOOD REGIONAL FOOD

information on Susie’s pancit. All the tell the seller to, “Separate all,” when can be purchased per order, per bilao,
ingredients are actually prepared in you order. This means they will and even with four different types
the company commissary. All their separate the noodles, sauce, and assembled in one bilao.
rice cakes are also made there. These toppings. You can simply reheat and
are then distributed to the branches, assemble when you get home. The Susie’s Cuisine is also a pasalubong
where trained personnel cook and next best thing? Have the pancit center as it carries various cakes,
assemble them. The dishes are still Malabon there, then take pansit pastries, cookies, rice cakes, snack
prepared the very same way they palabok home! items, and sweets. A quick look around
have been since Anicia first began her the store will show that all the items
enterprise. In the same way it is done Susie’s Cuisine is also known for its in the shelves carry the store brand,
in Metro Manila, the pancit palabok of heavenly tibok-tibok, the likes of but Myra tells us that a lot of these are
Susie’s Cuisine uses thin rice noodles which you cannot find in any other actually on consignment made by local
while the pancit Malabon uses thicker establishment. Don’t leave Pampanga bakers and small entrepreneurs. It is
noodles. The sauce is similar for both, without trying it. Made with fresh their company’s way of encouraging
but egg is added to the Malabon sauce carabao’s milk and topped with a lot of and helping small businesses around
making it thicker, richer, and more latik, it is a mistake to say it’s like maja the province and supporting other
perishable. As palabok uses the thin blanca because it is simply different Pampangueño enterprises.
noodles and sauce does not have egg, it both in taste, texture, and the amount
can keep longer. one can consume. Another kakanin People come to the Yabuts to show
that the store is known for is the their products and have them
Anicia gave us some tips on things one moche – rice balls filled with puréed evaluated. If they pass the couple’s
needs to know when taking out either monggo beans and topped with gata. standards, they are allowed to sell their
type of pancit: The Malabon variant Other rice cakes available include items in the outlets. They ask that
is best eaten within three hours, so if sapin-sapin, kalame or kalamay, the items be FDA-approved and the
your travel time is longer than that, duman with latik, biko kalabasa, businesses licensed to operate so that
choose palabok instead. If you want bibingkang malagkit, puto, cuchinta, everything is above board. Another
a ‘fresher’ pancit when you get home, cassava cake, and tibok mais. These requirement is for the items to be

Susie’s unbeatable Tibok-Tibok. 57
WWW.WOFEX.COM

branded with Susie’s signature logo. Another must-try kakanin is Susie’s Moche.
A few of the most popular consignment
items are the turrones, Sans rival,
empanada, chocolate cake, and
the bottled Sago n Gulaman. Some
suppliers, particularly those of
best-selling items, supply to them
exclusively. This is advantageous to
the supplier, as the sales volumes of
the combined branches can be quite
huge.

Susie’s Cuisine has branches in many
parts of Pampanga, and is set to open
next in Cabanatuan. The branch in
Tomas Morato opened just last year,
following numerous requests from
Manila residents. They also operate
kiosks, which only sell items to take
home.

From a carinderia selling pancit and
kakanin to a multi-branch enterprise
still selling pancit and kakanin –
this homegrown venture is a perfect
example of how simple things like
maintaining the quality and flavor
of one’s product, not being a slave to
trends, catering to the local market,
and helping small enterprises grow
with you can be the key to success.
Susie’s Cuisine is proof that continuing
traditions can be profitable and
regional food can be made commercial,
while still retaining their homegrown
charm. ● Cris C. Abiva

58 WORLD FOOD REGIONAL FOOD



REGIONAL FOOD: CORDILLERA ADMINISTRATIVE REGION

ETAG:

CELEBRATING AN AGE-OLD TRADITION
OF THE CORDILLERAS

CAR or the Cordillera Administrative spawned the emergence of processed products like jams and
Region is the only landlocked region wine, and the use of strawberries in the dishes of many local
in the country. Found in central restaurants.
northern Luzon, it is covered by most of the Cordillera
Mountain Range and includes six provinces, two cities, and CAR is a prime tourist destination. Baguio City, or the “City
75 municipalities. Called the “watershed cradle” of Northern of Pines.” is a favorite summer vacation spot. The world-
Luzon – as it hosts nine major rivers that supply water for famous Banaue Rice Terraces in Ifugao, part of the Rice
irrigation and electricity – it is made up of Abra, Apayao, Terraces of the Philippine Cordilleras, is a must-see UNESCO
Benguet, Ifugao, Kalinga, and the Mountain Province. World Heritage Site.

Majority of the population of the CAR is engaged in farming A region that is deeply rooted in tradition, the people of the
and small-scale production. It is the home of more than Cordilleras are proud of the rituals and festivities that pay
a hundred varieties of upland and heirloom rice, highland homage to their gods. Rituals of dance, music, and food are
vegetables (carrots, lettuce, cabbage, potatoes, cauliflower), celebrated with utmost respect, in the same manner that
coffee, and strawberries. The profusion of the latter has their ancestors celebrated them.

60 WORLD FOOD REGIONAL FOOD

Communal Food: Photo courtesy of Gwenn Galvez and Claude Tayag.
The Etag

In simplest terms it is After salting, the meat is Adlai Risotto with Etag as prepared by
preserved pork. But there is so hung to dry, either inside the Chef Gaita Fores at the Slow Food Summit in
much more to etag than meets house or outside under the WOFEX 2016.
the eye, or the palate, for that sun for several days until
matter. The preparation is it turns golden brown. It is Beyond the Borders
not a simple matter of salting also common practice to
and curing, as it is guided hang the salted meat right While nothing beats enjoying etag in dishes prepared
by sacred ritual, and the above a smoking kitchen by the indigenous people, the tradition of sharing
end product is not just pork stove for weeks to even it now goes beyond their communities. It is now
cured and aged to perfection, months. Curing can also be part of the menus of eateries in Sagada, Baguio
but food that is meant to be done by packing the meat City, Bontoc, La Trinidad, and Tabuk. The Inglay
enjoyed together with family in earthenware jars before Restaurant in La Trinidad counts etag burger,
and the community. Failing sun-drying, also for weeks sinigang na etag with red mountain rice, tokwa’t etag,
to share this bounty will make or months. Smoked etag red beans with etag, and even, spaghetti with etag, as
the etag spoil easily, it is said. is darker in color than the bestsellers. It is also openly sold in the local market
sundried version. The longer in Sagada and Baguio City, at about Php 150 per
The making of etag evolved the curing, the tastier the ¼ -kilo slab.
from the need to preserve the meat becomes.
leftover meat from the cañao Social media has done its part in making etag an
or ritual feast. Salt is rubbed The dish’s cultural value is additional attraction for the region. The news has
over the meat to draw out the quite evident in the occasions spread through posts on how etag is made, how it is
moisture and preserve it. This that require its presence. It cooked, and how great it tastes. Thus the demand for
takes about a week or longer. is served during important it has increased, particularly during the peak season
There are different schools of events like the birth of for tourism. An Etag Festival is celebrated every
thought as to how the meat a child. The family starts February in Sagada, Mountain Province.
is handled after curing. It preparing etag upon learning
can be sundried, smoked, or of the conception. Once the Chefs in Manila have also been using etag. Chef
smoked then sundried. These baby is born, etag-flavored Gaita Fores, for instance, served Adlai Risotto with
differences in the handling broth is given to the mother Etag at the Slow Food Summit in WOFEX last August.
can also account for the to stimulate lactation. Etag At the reality show “Master Chef Pinoy Edition,” the
other names by which etag is is again served during the grand winner, JR Royal, bested the field with his dish
known. baby’s baptism. It is also called “Chicken Bagorot.” A product of a Bicolano
part of wedding celebrations, father and Igorot mother, he whipped up a unique
A review of available literature special family events, and dish to showcase his heritage. He poached chicken
notes that etag or itag – as when there are special with etag then cooked it in coconut milk. The judges
it is called in Sagada, is also guests. were very impressed.
called kinuday by the Ibaloi
and kiniing by the Kankanaey. Etag is typically added to 61
It is called kiniing if it is pinikpikan for flavor. This
salted, smoked, and dried. is another traditional dish of
The Ilocanos, on the other the region – native chicken
hand, call their version itag or beaten with a stick then
innasin. cooked in broth flavored
with etag. It is also used to
In the past, tribesmen would enhance the flavor of dishes
hunt wild pig or deer to make like legumes, leafy vegetables,
etag, but today cultured or and soups. A little goes
farmed pigs are used. It is a long way, considering it is
said, however, that nothing is quite salty.
better than venison etag.

WWW.WOFEX.COM

Commercializing Etag

In 2009, a program on developing etag be created for adoption by the private That it is not just a matter of preparing
as a commercial product was initiated sector. the meat correctly, but also involves
in Benguet, dubbed “Value-adding of communicating with the gods.
Cordillera Pork-based Ethnic Food The research brought out important
(Etag) Delicacy for Commercialization.” considerations like pork selection and In 2015, the project was reviewed and
The objective was to incorporate sourcing, how to ensure sustainability evaluated. According to PCAARRD,
science with the traditional methods and the propagation of native pigs the project led to the development of
of processing the pork to ensure food for large scale production, how to processing techniques for different
safety, consistent quality, and the ensure the conservation of the genetic etag variants that satisfy food safety
preservation of its unique taste. make-up of the swine variety which requirements, the establishment of
can affect the quality of the end baseline information of the unique
Funded by the Philippine Council product, and how to prevent microbial processing techniques of different
for Agriculture, Aquatic and Natural infestation from ruining the product. ethnic groups in the Cordilleras,
Resources Research and Development But the more contentious aspect is the standardization of recipes that
of the Department of Science and cultural sensitivity, as this is a ritual use etag as an ingredient, and the
Technology (PCAARRD-DOST) food whose preparation is steeped in establishment of packaging technology
and implemented by the Highland tradition. for etag. The Etag Processing Facility
Agriculture Resources Research and at BSU now showcases the basic
Development Consortium (HARRDEC) While the study may well aid in equipment and the required set-up
with the Benguet State University creating more earning opportunities in the processing and production of
(BSU), the study used the term ‘etag’ for the region, it does not lessen the etag that is compliant with food safety
as a generic name for all salted pork concern of what commercialization standards. It is also a techno-demo
preparations adopted in the study may bring to cultural practices. Some facility for interested etag processors
including kinuday, kiniing, and say etag cannot be marketed in and entrepreneurs.
innasin. It will establish protocols commercial quantities, as the recipe
for food safety in the commercial cannot be standardized. One cannot The latest update on the project
production of etag and when the precisely time curing and aging as is that processing protocols for
technology is perfected, a template will “the meat will tell you when it’s done.” the development of convenience
forms of etag, like bouillon, liquid
seasoning, granules, and powder
are being finalized. In the works are
market testing and the conduction
of consumer acceptability studies in
non-traditional markets outside of the
Cordilleras.

Although the project has its share
of successes, it continues to have
issues on intellectual property as to
the use of “Etag” as a brand name
and the disclosure of the processing
techniques of the indigenous people.
The DOST has been posting photos of
packaged etag online with the teaser
that it will soon be widely available, the
question is will it be as good or even
better than one made in the traditional
manner? Etag lovers will, hopefully,
have the opportunity to find out very
soon. ● Cris C. Abiva

62 WORLD FOOD REGIONAL FOOD

READS ON REGIONAL PINOY FOOD

While it is easy enough to check anything online, nothing still beats the authoritative nature of published works.
We looked at what’s new in the bookshelves that relates to regional Filipino food, and here are two must-haves:

PHILIPPINE FOOD, COUNTRY COOKING
COOKING, & DINING PHILIPPINE REGIONAL
DICTIONARY CUISINES

BY EDGIE POLISTICO BY MICHAELA FENIX

Edgie Polistico is the brains This is a must-read for people
behind the blog “Philippine who enjoy discovering and re-
Food Illustrated.” A self- discovering regional food. The
made lexicographer on local essays are wonderful stories
languages, his interest in of Mickey’s travels around the
dictionaries started at country, her talks with cooks, her
a very young age. His collection of vintage and modern observations on how people prepare and cook food, and her
dictionaries in both English and Filipino spurred him to personal recollections. The way she describes the cooking
come up with his own. In 1995, he came up with his first methods and how the dishes smell and taste will make the
dictionary, “Edgie Polistico’s Cebuano-English Dictionary.” reader want to just get on a bus, train, or boat, and see and
taste for himself.
Polistico recently launched his first published work with
Anvil Publishing: Philippine Food, Cooking, & Dining Michaela Fenix has authored and edited several books
Dictionary. This is a compilation of more than 8,000 on food. Her first foray into regional food was with the
entries of local dishes, ingredients, utensils, and cooking book, “Philippine Cuisine: A Country’s Heritage.” Writing
techniques not just in Tagalog but also in other languages the book brought her to different parts of the country and
and dialects like Cebuano, Waray, Capampangan, and opened her eyes to the wealth of information that is out
Bicolano, to name a few. there. This experience strengthened her resolve to travel
more and document every last detail that she could.
Luckily, his work takes him to different parts of the
Philippines. His travels give him the opportunity to learn, “Country Cooking,” is not a mere compilation of essays and
observe, and interact with the locals from where he gathers original recipes, but her tribute to the local cooks who keep
data for his dictionaries. Polistico created a database of Filipino regional food culture alive. It is a treasure trove of
his work, wrote codes, and designed a software application information covering Luzon, Visayas, and Mindanao – as
for his first digital dictionary. This helped him compile the she has traveled from Batanes to as far south as Tawi-Tawi.
immense amount of data he gathered. Within its pages are her accounts of how to make pamapa
itum, the variety of suman you can enjoy in Leyte, the
His dictionary is a very good source of information for recipe for pancit pusit of Cavite, how to ‘read’ a Chavacano
students, writers, educators, and anyone who needs menu, and about the pinikpikan of the Cordilleras.
to understand the nuances of Pinoy food culture. Is
malinamnam the same as masarap or malasa? Is pinangat Micky was editor in chief of FOOD Magazine, where she
fish in broth? Or is it gabi leaves cooked in gata? created a section on regional cooking, called “Food Tour.”
At present, she continues to write the column, “Country
Aside from the general body of words, the reader will also Cooking,” for the Philippine Daily Inquirer and serves as
appreciate the annexes that include descriptive words on chairperson of the Doreen Gamboa Fernandez Food Writing
tastes (askad, mapakla, malinamnam); smell (amoy sunog, Award.
panis, sangsang); measurements (takal, medya, manipis);
quantity and estimate (sagana, damo); sizes, shapes and Both books are published by Anvil Publishing, Inc. and
forms (gamay, habilog, taluhaba); count and numbers; days are available at all branches of National Bookstore and
of the week; time; even colors, money ,and costs, as well as Powerbooks. For more information on books on Filipino food
parts of the body. It is one book that is worthy of anyone’s visit www.anvilpublishing.com
time and money.

WWW.WOFEX.COM 63

BUSINESS

BYOB

(Be Your Own Boss)

Do you have a business in mind?
Making it a reality may be easier than you think.

Entrepreneurship success stories are giving more and entrepreneurs in areas like financing, marketing, technology,
more people the inspiration and push to try their luck and training, among others. Through these, the bureau can
in business. It is certainly an attractive alternative, ensure that local enterprises start off on solid ground, better
particularly if one has a unique product, a novel concept, enabling them to succeed.
or a new take on basic needs. More so, if one is a long-time
employee who needs to balance stagnant growth and pay People interested in starting their own business can find
with his family’s growing needs. useful information in the agency’s website at dti.gov.ph.
There are downloadable booklets that include “Starting
The Department of Trade and Industry (DTI) is the a Business,” “Do You Want To Go Into Business?,” “A Guide to
government agency tasked to coordinate, promote, facilitate, Registering Your Business,” and “Your Guide to Starting
and regulate trade, industry, and investment activities in a Small Enterprise,” to name a few. These books provide
the country. Under its wing is the Bureau of Micro, Small basic information and answers to people’s common
and Medium Enterprise Development (BMSMED), which questions about business requirements, government
is mandated to promote and develop micro-, small-, and assistance, and even step-by-step guides to starting specific
medium-enterprises (MSMEs). This agency implements businesses. One can also read about MSME success stories
programs and projects that address the needs of would-be in the site and find the contact details of regional offices.

64 WORLD FOOD BUSINESS

FREE resource The BMBE Act
booklets FROM
WWW.DTI.GOV.PH Government assistance to entrepreneurs is not limited to those with
substantial capital to finance their businesses. Ordinary people who think
do you want to go they have what it takes to become successful businessmen can take a
into business? chance under the “BMBE Act of 2002.” “R.A. 9178,” or the Barangay Micro
Business Enterprises (BMBE) Act was enacted in 2002 to encourage the
your guide to starting formation and growth of small community businesses by granting them
a small enterprise incentives and other benefits.

A PDIC Guidebook_180mmx230mm_final1_ctp.indd 1 12/13/13 9:54 AM A BMBE is defined as: Any business entity or enterprise engaged in the
production, processing, or manufacturing of products or commodities,
usapang pera: including agro-processing, trading, and services whose total assets,
mga dapat alamin excluding land, shall not be more that three million pesos. Such assets
shall include those arising from loans, but not the land on which the plant
WWW.WOFEX.COM and equipment are located.

BMBEs are seen as breaking ground for local entrepreneurial talents that
must be strengthened and supported, as they can help in providing jobs
and income for more families.

This law seeks to target the underground economy and the informal sector
at the barangay level so they can make their businesses legitimate, and
thus have better financial success. It hopes to counter the common belief
that the money to be used for registering a business can be put to better
use as additional capital, inasmuch as it hopes to bring these micro-
enterprises into mainstream business.

The BMBE Act is mandated to the DTI, which works with other
government agencies like the Department of the Interior and Local
Government (DILG), Department of Labor and Employment (DOLE),
Philippine Information Agency (PIA), and the Department of Finance
(DOF). To learn more about the requirements and how to avail of the
benefits of the law, one can check with the DTI. Any form of business may
register, be it a sole proprietorship, partnership, cooperative, or business
enterprise. Micro-enterprises with assets below three hundred thousand
pesos are required to submit more simplified documentation.

Micro-enterprises are encouraged to register their businesses so they
can avail of the incentives under the BMBE Act, such as exemption from
the payment of income tax for income arising from the operation of the
enterprise, exemption from the coverage of the minimum wage law,
priority to a special credit window of government financing institutions
that service the needs of BMBEs, and technology transfer, production,
management training and marketing assistance.

Don’t let your great business ideas remain simply ideas. Aim for the world
and start today. Talk to successful entrepreneurs and learn from their
stories. For advice from business gurus and for government assistance
and inquiries, visit the DTI website or any of their offices. ● Cris C. Abiva

65

BUSINESS

A Quick Guide to Starting a Business
in the Philippines

Make sure your business is legitimate before you begin any production, transaction, or sale. Here
is a checklist of things you need to do, offices you need to visit, and papers you need to secure.

steps

1 REGISTER THE BUSINESS

Get a certificate of registration depending on the structure of your proposed business.

Go the following offices:

• Department of Trade and Industry (DTI) For single proprietorships – get a certificate of
registration of business name.

• Securities and Exchange Commission (SEC) For partnerships and corporations – get
a certificate of registration.

• Cooperative Development Authority (CDA) For cooperatives – get a certificate of registration.

2 SECURE PERMITS

Visit the following offices to get a clearance and/or permit to operate.

• Homeowners Association – Get a clearance if your business will operate inside villages or
subdivisions.

• Barangay Hall – Get a barangay clearance.
• Local Government Unit (LGU) – Secure a business permit from the municipal or city hall.
• Bureau of Internal Revenue (BIR) – Apply for a business Taxpayer’s Identification Number (TIN),

register your books of account, register your POS and get an authority to print official receipts.

3 REGISTER YOUR EMPLOYEES

Register your employees at the following offices:

• Social Security System (SSS)
• Department of Labor and Employment (DOLE) – If your business will employ 5 or more workers
• Home Development Mutual Fund (HMDF) – RA 7742 requires all SSS members earning at least

Php 4,000 a month to be registered. HDMF administers the Pag-Ibig Fund.
• Philippine Health Insurance Corp. (PhilHealth) – RA 7875/RA 9241 require all employers of

government and private sectors and their employees to be registered.

4 CHECK IF YOU NEED OTHER PERMITS

Verify if you need special clearances/permits/licenses from other government institutions like
those listed below, especially if the business is food-related. Inquire with DTI.

• Bureau of Food and Drugs – Department of • Bureau of Animal Industry
Health (FDA-DOH) • Bureau of Fisheries and Aquatic Resources
• National Food Authority
• National Meat Inspection Commission – • Bureau of Plant Industry
Department of Agriculture (NMIC-DA)

66 WORLD FOOD BUSINESS



THE ONLY
TRADE PUBLICATION
THAT FOCUSES ON THE
BUSINESS SIDE OF THE
FOOD AND BEVERAGE INDUSTRY

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) (632) 426-9603 | (632) 920-8136

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Support
the Slow Food

Movement

The snail is the chosen
symbol of Slow Food,
as it moves slowly and
calmly eating its way
through life. It is also
a culinary specialty in

Bra, Italy where the
movement was born.

www.slowfood.com