Vogue IN 12.2021

AHMEDABAD | DELHI | HYDERABAD | MUMBAI | LOS ANGELES
www.shyamalandbhumika.com

Knit cardigan, Gucci.
Striped top, skirt; both
Shivan & Narresh.
Stockings, Theatre.
‘Blavet-Albi’ leather
sofa, Fabiolush
collection, Stanley,
2,56,900 onwards

1 TREND

2 ITSY-BITSY MINI SKIRTS
3
Prepare for legs for days with skirt hemlines
that go higher and higher

1. Leather miniskirt, Gucci, 1,34,200 2. Skirt, Louis Vuitton, price on
request 3. Miniskirt with hearts, Dior, price on request

Bodysuit, earrings;
both Louis Vuitton.
Skirt, Miu Niku. Socks,

Theatre. Pumps,
Christian Louboutin.

Rings, Misho. Cu ,
H&M. ‘Blavet-Albi’
leather sofa, Fabiolush
collection, Stanley,
2,56,900 onwards

INDIGITAL MEDIA

VALENTINO
DSQUARED2

www.vogue.in VOGUE INDIA DECEMBER 2021 53

TREND Ru ed top, pants; both
‘Malie. Shoes, Christian
1 Louboutin. Jewelled
rings (on left hand),
Goenka Gems. Earrings,
ring (on right hand), Tara
Fine Jewellery

2

3
4

5

6 COLOUR HAPPY

Candy colours are the dopamine dose
your party needed

7 1. Tote bag, Burberry, 3,90,000 2. Satin top, Nanushka, 44,250
3. Trousers, Bottega Veneta, 83,000 4. Enamel link hoops, Misho,
4,000 5. Knitted crop top, Jacquemus, 19,500 6. Jewelled minidress,
Mach & Mach, 54,500 7. Satin platform pumps, Versace, 91,500

54 VOGUE INDIA DECEMBER 2021 www.vogue.in



TREND

CHANEL SUITING FOR THE NIGHT
GUCCI
Tailoring gets a night-time update with
ABRAHAM & THAKORE sequins, satin and tulle

2
1

LOOK 1

3 3
4
1
LOOK 2

1. Knit, Khaite, 1,53,000 2. Satchel bag, Balenciaga,
1,29,000 3. Sequinned checked skirt, Prada, 2,30,000

4. Mules, Manolo Blahnik, 80,500

2
1. Organza jacket, Sacai, 3,99,000 2 .Bracelet, Fendi, 43,600

3. Wool trousers, Salvatore Ferragamo, 42,000

56 VOGUE INDIA DECEMBER 2021 www.vogue.in

Sequin-embellished
blazer and trousers; both

Kanika Goyal. Long
necklace, Outhouse.
Charm necklace, Viange
Fine Jewels. ‘Blavet-Albi’
leather sofa, Fabiolush
collection, Stanley,

2,56,900 onwards

Hair and make up: Kiran
Denzongpa/Feat Artists
Visuals editor: Jay Modi
Production: Somnath Bagh

Model: Manya Mitra/
Feat Artists

A BEJEWELLED LEGACY
Known for their unrivalled craftsmanship and magnificent jewels, House of Amrapali
signifies harmony between the past, present and future

When it comes to exquisite jewellery, bringing the imperial magnificence of age-old
there is perhaps no brand as revered as jewels to the world today as a living testimony
House of Amrapali. A fine reflection of to the rich craftsmanship of the country.
India’s unmatched jewellery traditions
and workmanship, the story of House of It comes as no surprise that House of
Amrapali began in 1978 with two ancient Amrapali is oft-regarded as jeweler to the
history graduates—Rajesh Ajmera and Rajiv stars, given their loyal clientele which is rife
Arora—whose vision to showcase the brilliance with royalty, corporate honchos and celebrities
of Indian jewellery to the world ushered in a from across the globe, including dignitaries
renaissance in the industry. such as Mr. Shimon Peres, Ex-Prime Minister
of Israel; Her Majesty Ashi Wangchuk,
Amrapali’s design language exudes Queen of Bhutan; Maharani Padmini Devi
exuberant qualities—distinctive and luxurious, and Princess Diya of the Jaipur Royal Family.
they’re reminiscent of traditional methods that During her royal visit to India in 2016, the
reveal the passion behind culture and heritage Duchess of Cambridge, Kate Middleton was
of the brand. Guided by Tarang Arora, also spotted wearing Amrapali Earrings at
Creative Director and CEO of Amrapali Charity Bollywood Gala. The brand has also
Jewels, every jeweled piece is created with caught the eye of Hollywood personalities
the help of master craftsmen and goldsmiths such as Rihanna, Jennifer Lopez, Penelope
within and around Jaipur, with elements Cruz, and Angelina Jolie. Closer to home,
of Indian ethnic jewellery in their designs, Amrapali pieces are often spotted on

AMRAPALI MUSEUM
For founders Rajiv Arora and Rajesh Ajmera, a
passionate love for all things art and hand-
crafted led to the creation of the legacy of
Amrapali. No wonder then, that they would
go on to launch a museum in their hometown,
Jaipur, showcasing traditional silver jeweled
arts of India reflecting the ‘everyday’ life of
the people of India. The Amrapali Museum
is a haven for scholars, students, jewellery
connoisseurs, aesthetes and tourists looking
to explore the heritage and history of India
through jewellery and artifacts.

AMRAPALI MANUFACTURING UNIT
Catering to international and domestic
markets alike, Amrapali Design Studio &
Amrapali Exports demonstrate technical
mastery and a deep-rooted love for the craft.
Amrapali o ers a wide range of bespoke
jewellery as per buyers’ specification in
precious and non-precious metals. With the
capacity of more than a thousand craftsmen,
their manufacturing units are equipped with
modern machinery, well-trained personnel, and
absolute dedication to perfection.

Bollywood actors such as Sonam Kapoor, and a ordable designs cultivated out of For more information, contact
Vidya Balan, Deepika Padukone, Madhuri experimental design philosophy, primarily [email protected]
Dixit, Alia Bhatt, Kiara Advani, Kirron Kher focusing on silver, gold-plated silver and www.amrapalijewels.com
and Konkana Sen—adding glamour to their fashion jewellery. Budding out from the
style quotient. essence of the mother brand 'Amrapali',
the brand reveals a story of a local myth,
With stores in Jaipur, Delhi, Mumbai, interwoven with symbolic and diverse
Bangalore and London, Amrapali Jewelry identities.
is available in over 25 outlets, including
major markets throughout the world. It only LEGEND AMRAPALI
goes without saying that the brand’s zealous When it comes to elegant and beautifully
endeavours have taken it to soaring heights— crafted everyday wear jewellery pieces,
from the founders being invited to meet the Legend Amrapali leads the way with a
Queen at Buckingham Palace to the jewels vast array of Indian designs married with
being seen in block-buster favorites on the a contemporary perspective. The designs
screen, House of Amrapali has paved a rather reveal ancient and cutting-edge details using
illustrious path for the House of Amrapali. techniques that are thousands of years old.
Pick from an array of options—earrings,
TRIBE AMRAPALI necklaces, rings and bracelets made with 18K
Spearheaded by founder and CEO Akanksha yellow gold.
Arora, Tribe Amrapali creates contemporary





PHOTOGRAPHED BY ERRIKOS ANDREOU, VOGUE WEDDING BOOK 2019

VOGUE WEDDING SHOW, THE VIRTUAL EDIT IS BACK

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HOMEGROWN

Escape plan

There is no greater need than
that of a year-end break. Hit
refresh on your vacay style
with these picks, from hold-all
bags to multipurpose make-up

HOLD-ALL BAGS 1

1

LONG DRESSES 2 MULTIPURPOSE MAKEUP

3

3

1. Maxi hold-all bag, Rara Avis,
27,890 2. Maxi dress, De Castro,
2 39,300 3. Ripe Raspberry lip and

cheek tint, ASA Beauty, 2,100
CHOLA
‘MALIE

TARUN VISHWA
4. Moon and gold tassel earrings,
Talisman, 2,299 5. ‘5 Elements’
necklace, Dorothée Sausset, 21,850
6. ‘Napali’ bikini top and bottoms,
Ookioh, 7,400 7. Blush flats, Cai,
1,899 8. White stone slides, Paio X
Wendell Rodricks, 3,200
9. Embroidered shirt, Harago, 21,900

64 VOGUE INDIA DECEMBER 2021 www.vogue.in

Alison Dumbell, Tanaz Doshi, Diandra Soares Elnaaz Norouzi
Pria Kataaria Puri & Nicholas Dumbell,
General Manager, The St. Regis Mumbai A GLAMOROUS Pria Kataaria Puri & Sunila
AFFAIR Duggal, Director of Marketing &
Shama Sikandar Communication, The St. Regis Mumbai
An evening filled with glamour, fashion, style
Mugdha Godse & Arjan Bajwa and food—the first ever Fashion-Social NFT
club marked the reopening of By The Mekong

at The St. Regis Mumbai

Fun and flair filled the air as the city’s swish set witnessed the
reopening of the award-winning Oriental dining venue—By
The Mekong at The St. Regis Mumbai. An extravagant a air
with a star-studded guest list, fashion designer Pria Kataaria
Puri and Nicholas Dumbell, General Manager of The St.
Regis Mumbai hosted the first ever Fashion-Social NFT party

Caftans and Cocktails at the upscale venue.
While the models were spotted wearing clothes from
Puri’s various timeless collections, the guests were dressed
in gorgeous kaftans even as they indulged in delectable
oriental fare and danced the night away to retro-house beats.
The glitzy soiree was replete with a number of luminaries,
including, among others, Mugdha Godse, Schauna
Chauhan, Bikram Saluja, Narendra Kumar Ahmed, Arjan
Bajwa, Kavita Lakhani, Rashmi Nigam, Rajit Tangri, Himani
Shah, Paulomi Sanghvi, Zoya Aggrawal, Namita Alexandra,

Anupama Verma and Anandita De.

Ralph & Sonia Hays

Simran Kaur Mundi

Malini Agarwal Models

Lamiya Nagarwala, Nosher Puri, Amay Thakkar, Kunal Shetty,
Gauri Kanade & Khushi Kapoor

HOMEGROWN

CO-ORD SETS 4 DELICATE JEWELLERY

6

4

5

SAAKSHA & KINNI 76
ASEEM KAPOOR
TERRACOTTA BIKINI
ITUVANA
10
5 SLIP-ON SLIDES

8

NIGHT-TIME DRAPES 7

9

8 431-88 BY SHWETA KAPUR
VERANDAH
66 VOGUE INDIA DECEMBER 2021 www.vogue.in 9 CROCHET DRESS

MAN-STYLE LAYERS











JEWELLERY 2
1

3

4

5 CHANEL
8
INDIGITAL MEDIA
7
6

9
10

Drops of heaven

Be it a pop of colour or a diamond dagger, the
pendant is currently the best way to sport a

hint of bling at any occasion

1. Scalloped shell pendant, Hanut Singh 2. Divas’ Dream necklace, Bulgari 3. Layered necklace,
Moksh - Fine Unseen Jewels 4. Diamond pendant, Chopard 5. ‘Pisa Bell’ pendant, Zoya - A Tata
Product 6. Necklace, Retrouvai 7. ‘Avanti’ pendant, Forevermark Diamonds 8. Necklace, Cartier
9. Amelia pendant, Zoe & Morgan X Gemfields X WFG 10. Pendant necklace, KAJ Fine Jewellery
72 VOGUE INDIA DECEMBER 2021 www.vogue.in

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ALEXANDER MCQUEEN Charmed, I’m sure

Whether you’re personalising it with initials
and sentimental danglers or keeping it cool

with a solo accent, the charm bracelet is
having its moment in the sun

1

2 34 INDIGITAL MEDIA
5
1. Charm bracelet, Pacharee
6 2. Bracelet, Timeless Pearly
74 VOGUE INDIA DECEMBER 2021 www.vogue.in 3. Bracelet, Pippa Small 4. ‘Florentine’
charm bracelet, Carolina Bucci
5. Charm bracelet, Isabel Marant
6. Charm bracelet, Sydney Evan
7. Egg charm bracelet, Fabergé

7



WATCHES 12
3
Black is the
new black 4

Turn to the dark side with these noir 6
novelties. By Rishna Shah 5

7

8 9
10

1. ‘L’Heure du Diamant’ watch, Chopard ARVED COLVIN-SMITH
2. ‘RM 60-01 Automatic Flyback

Chronograph Les Voiles de St Barth’
watch, Richard Mille 3. ‘Classique
Double Tourbillon Quai de l’Horloge’
watch, Breguet 4. ‘Oyster Perpetual
Sea-Dweller’ watch, Rolex 5. ‘Highlife
Automatic Skeleton’ watch, Frederique
Constant 6. ‘Santos Dumont’ watch,
Cartier 7. ‘Royal Oak Selfwinding Black
Ceramic’ watch, Audemars Piguet 8.
‘Classic Butterfly’ watch, Gra 9. ‘Spirit’
watch, Longines 10. ‘Seamaster Diver
300m Black Black’ watch, Omega

76 VOGUE INDIA DECEMBER 2021 www.vogue.in



ARCHIVE

Through the
textile lens

What do some of India’s biggest textile-focused
fashion designers collect for their personal

archives? We get an exclusive peek. Styled and
written by Vinita Makhija

I ndia’s first prime minister Jawaharlal Nehru once said, “The
history of India may well be written with textile as its leading motif.”
We won the freedom struggle in khadi, which has come to be known as
the fabric of India. There is no other country in the world with access to
living traditions and cultures like ours. In a candid conversation, textile and
fashion designer David Abraham once mentioned to me, “Even in a craft-
inspired country like Japan, a young designer may very well have to mortgage
his house for the want of mere 50 metres of an ikat weave. For us, we simply
need to go to the nearest village.” Or as technology (especially during the
pandemic) has proved, we can log on to one of the numerous India-based
master weaver Facebook groups to discover, place an order and own an ex-
tremely rare weave at the mere click of a button.

Then why is it that in a world of such access, we often look at our fashion
designers as trendsetters and not custodians of our crafts, knowledge and design
etymology?

Ritu Kumar, an art history student and prolific Indian fashion designer,
known as the doyenne of Indian textile conservation and revival, is a torchbearer
when it comes to acquiring and then preserving Indian textiles as a means to
honour and preserve our history. Her archive stands at 1,500 pieces—and grow-
ing. In the introduction to her book, Costumes And Textiles Of Royal India, she
writes, “Documenting the legacy of textiles and costumes of an older order is like
driving a stake into the flux of time to create a point of reference.” According to
her, studying the evolution of costume is to study the history of people and their
relationship with their environment. Mayank Mansingh Kaul, a textile expert
and curator, as well as a co-creative on Kumar’s exhaustive exhibit Crossroads,
explains, “In the absence of formal institutions that function as textile libraries,
personal designer archives serve as hugely important study material.”

Vogue India asked six loud and proud textile-first senior fashion designers
who have always focused on textiles about their personal fabric fascination, what
makes it to their tactile mood board, which weaves inspire visions for their fu-
ture collections and, most importantly, could they share what’s in their sandook?

78 VOGUE INDIA DECEMBER 2021 www.vogue.in

VISUALS EDITOR: JAY MODI ST SANJAY GARG
RAW MANGO
Photographed by ADIL HASAN “It’s okay that prestigious Indian
pieces exist in museums abroad. But
we need to develop our own archives
and museums here,” says Garg, whose
personal collection stands at 400
pieces and is growing every week.
His goal is to open his personal
archives to the public in 20 years as

study material.
Among the pieces he chooses to show

us is an umbrella cover featuring
Rampur ki patti ka kaam (appliqué
work from Rampur, Uttar Pradesh)

picked up for its skilful appliqué
technique. A rare cotton-on-cotton

chikankari embroidered kurta
(“Chikankari was always on cotton;
recent iterations in georgette, chiffon

and embellished with badla work
have completely moved away from
its original form”) a (possibly) mill-
made power loom sari featuring the
mill’s name tag and British pounds as
borders, and most curiously, a rope
made with ikat yarn wastage, used to
draw buckets of water from wells. He
explains, “It’s not all about money and
expensive pieces. It’s important to find
your own value within things. I am
sure the villagers were laughing when
I picked the rope, but it is completely

unique in its design and make.”

A rare Parsi jhabla (a tunic stitched
for children) featuring ‘cheena-cheeni’

embroidery. During the British rule
in India, Parsis traded with the

Chinese when travel had superstitious
connotations for Indians. Over time, they
brought back embroidered Chinese fabric

featuring the daily lives of the country’s
people that served as inspiration for
saris. Usually saris and their borders

(kor) are preferred while collecting, but a
jhabla is a rare collectible, picked purely
for its skilled embroidery technique
www.vogue.in VOGUE INDIA DECEMBER 2021 79

GAURANG SHAH

“Collecting old pieces simply
to reproduce them makes no
sense. It is first, my love for the
Indian yarn,” says Shah. A design
vocabulary that ranges from Parsi
gara, to Banarasi, to paithani
and Patola, Shah’s understanding
and sale of Indian textiles to the
masses is unparalleled. To see
specifically commissioned pieces
by him in person is to see poetry
rendered on threads. So then,
it is no surprise to realise he is
quietly holding on to century-
old pieces that he hunts down
from collectors with a passion.
When he sends me a collection of
vintage Banarasis to style for this
shoot, a lot of them are tattered

and I worry about draping
them. But he’s nonchalant: “As a
designer and sari-maker, when I
collect old pieces, it isn’t purely
for the aesthetic value, but that

the pieces themselves serve as
physical schools.” He encourages
everyone to feel and spend some
time absorbing the history of the

motifs and weaves.

A self-textured vintage Banarasi
silk sari that is over 80 years old,

collected via antique dealers to
understand vintage yarn qualities and

weaving techniques that are not in
practice today

Photographed by HASHIM BADANI

80 VOGUE INDIA DECEMBER 2021 www.vogue.in

ARCHIVE

The oldest textile RAKESH THAKORE, ABRAHAM & THAKORE
in Thakore’s
collection is When Martand ‘Mapu’ Singh (the primary authority on Indian textiles and the force behind
the iconic Vishwakarma exhibits) started travelling to Indian villages to commission pieces
Coco Chanel’s for the exhibit, many weavers mentioned a student that had already reached their door. The
silk gold brocade student was Rakesh Thakore, who had just graduated from NID (National Institute of Design,
swatch featuring Ahmedabad) and was eventually hired to work on the groundbreaking exhibit. Thakore’s NID
a Chinese dragon education in textile design, personal inclination and training over the years of working on
and cloud pattern. Vishwakarma means collecting textiles is an extension of his life and interest.
It was woven in His collection includes revered textile artist Ajit Das’s cow print, a sea-world depiction by
three panels and Kailasam, Srikalahasti, and the pièce de résistance—a swatch from Coco Chanel’s house in Paris.
Having covered the length and breadth of the country via looms, what is the one piece he still
inherited from hasn’t acquired? The Kodalikaruppur sari, made using an advanced weaving technique where
the late Martand the ground is woven in gold brocade and then embellished with both hand and block prints.

‘Mapu’ Singh

Photographed by ADIL HASAN

www.vogue.in VOGUE INDIA DECEMBER 2021 81

ARCHIVE Photographed by ADIL HASAN

An early 20th century kantha
embroidery panel from Bengal. It has
“Ram Ram” and unusually fine paisleys

embroidered around its borders

DAVID ABRAHAM
ABRAHAM & THAKORE
“The greatest travel story of the
world has been written around the
Silk Route, it’s a great unifier. One of

the first things people learnt to do
was make clothes and then barter

them,” says Abraham. The other
half of Abraham & Thakore, he has

taught at NID in Ahmedabad (his
alma mater) and continues to give
lectures on textiles and sustainability.
When he speaks to you about his

collection, it’s like doing a quick
crash course on Indian textile

history. For Abraham, self-study is of
paramount importance. “Unfortunate

interventions have resulted in
ugly abominations,” he says. The
untrained eye could be easily fooled
into believing anything old is worth

preserving. “Developing an eye
becomes the goal, but generous
and informed mentors and teachers
help too.” Much like his business
partner Rakesh Thakore, Abraham

mounts his textiles on walls as
paintings. “Storing them in the
cupboards makes them disappear.
It’s important to have them around

and to stare at them often.”

82 VOGUE INDIA DECEMBER 2021 www.vogue.in

SPECIAL FEATURE

LEADING WITH PASSION

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By virtue, makeup is arguably one of away a world of knowledge about your craft
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ARCHIVE An old loom jamawar
shawl from Tahiliani’s
TARUN TAHILIANI exhaustive collection. This
one was bought from the
“Fashion actually taught me about flea markets of Paris
India. Until I went to villages and to old
cultural towns like Lucknow and Bhuj,
I thought I was too ‘brown sahib’ for
Indian craft,” says Tahiliani, speaking
of an upbringing many new Indians,
especially Sindhis (whose grandparents
escaped with nothing from Sindh
during Partition), have had. “When you
go into your past for lessons, you can
connect to your future in a more holistic
way.” To that end, Tahiliani collects
Kutchi abhas, bandhani textiles, lace
Pichwai paintings and pieces that have
become covered in patina over the
years. However, his biggest investment
is jamawars that he collects both in
India and from flea markets in Europe
and New York. The fading of natural
dyes (madder and mitti) on older
textiles is Tahiliani’s preferred colour
palette. He remains the only Indian
designer to have showcased in Pakistan,
so naturally my first question is, what
did he bring back from there? “Only the
Sindhi embroidered topis—just enough
to reclaim what was left behind”

Photographed by ADIL HASAN

84 VOGUE INDIA DECEMBER 2021 www.vogue.in



ARCHIVE

KH RADHARAMAN
THE HOUSE OF ANGADI
Belonging to one of the most prestigious families working with textiles in South India, Radharaman’s family
and original store, Angadi Silks in Bengaluru, is an institution. Carrying the legacy that he does, and finding
ways to innovate within that, is no small feat. I have often wondered if one of his earliest explorations, the
linen Kanjeevaram, would have been as well-received if someone less thorough had attempted it.
“An important criterion for me is to be able to authenticate sources before I buy vintage pieces, but it’s
not always necessary to buy textiles itself to be a collector,” says Radharaman. While his own inheritance
consists of 100-year-old saris from his grandparents and rare textiles from around the world (all preserved
formally with QR codes in a separate o ce) Radharaman suggests the Victoria & Albert museum in London
and other museum catalogues as a starting point to train the eyes. And while the government weaver centres
are in need of a revival, Radharaman recounts finding many sources via these central institutions in the past.

A now almost extinct genre of Koranadu
sari with silk borders, cotton body and real

zari. This technique preceded the advent
of the 100-per-cent silk Kanjeevaram saris

that we are so used to seeing now

Photographed by LEKHA RATHNAM

86 VOGUE INDIA DECEMBER 2021 www.vogue.in



A SUSTAINABLE ODE TO ART

In their sixth successive year, the Indian Art Fair and BMW Group
pay homage to the essence of art that paves the way to a sustainable future

It goes without saying that art has the power to convey stories that the IAF and BMW Group’s six-year- long association, with IAF 2022,
hold meaning and emotion—the world of art has been fueled by slated to take place from 3-6 February, 2022.
experiences since time immemorial. If you’re looking for masterpieces
that are led by an innate passion for art, look no further than the CELEBRATING CULTURAL INNOVATIONS
India Art Fair (IAF). Celebrating and supporting modern and From commissioning legendary BMW Art Cars to spearheading
contemporary art from South Asia, IAF—in association with creative initiatives like the BMW Tate Live, the BMW Group, ever since its
genius and culture maven BMW Group—is a leading platform for inception, has championed and engaged in cultural co-operations
intriguing new discoveries and revolutionary works of art. An eagerly across the globe, committing themselves to unparalleled excellence. So
awaited a air, the event takes place in New Delhi each year in a much so that the iconic BMW Art Cars by Andy Warhol, Je Koons,
grand style, matching the magnificence of the art it celebrates. For Sandro Chia and Cesar Manrique have been exclusively showcased at
five years, the IAF and BMW Group have collaborated to encourage several editions of the IAF.
cultural engagement across the country, through brilliant art fairs that
demonstrate the power of emerging technologies and art. And now, Over the years, the IAF and BMW Group have o ered a real treat to
as the world picks itself up after a pandemic, it’s time to celebrate cultural explorers and art aficionados alike. For instance, they worked with
artists to create a series of ‘BMW Artist Films’. Whether it is New Delhi

artist and archivist Baaraan Ijlal’s fascinating study of her city or artist Dia and nurturing new technologies, this powerful partnership focuses on a
Mehhta Bhupal’s reconstruction of the spaces most familiar to us, this more sustainable and inclusive future, with the first-ever ‘The Future is
series shone the spotlight on some of India’s most gifted contemporary Born of Art’ commission.
artists. Moreover, the annual BMW Art Talk—the inaugural talk in the fair’s
auditorium each year—became another event to look forward to. These ‘The Future is Born of Art’ commission seeks an artist to design a
talks spotlight the artist who painted or designed the BMW Art Car on creative BMW car wrap. Not just any car wrap, at that. BMW stresses
display, such as The Hockney Talk and The Warhol Talk, which were upon every artist’s wrap being as sustainable as possible. This stems
previously conducted in 2019 and 2020, respectively. from the brand’s ideology of ‘Sustainable Circularity’, where reusing and
recycling are the norm.
CRAFTING A SUSTAINABLE FUTURE
As the pandemic puts sustainability in hyperdrive, the year 2022 The winner will be chosen from a shortlist prepared by a jury
will witness the return of IAF and BMW Group with a new edition, and decided in-part through a public poll. Better still, the car—a
combining art and technology to drive awareness and ignite change fully electronic vehicle—will be unveiled at the fair and will traverse
towards sustainable development. With the aim of empowering artists the country, decked in the winning artist’s wrap, thereby splendidly
broadcasting their vision. This new initiative is an e ort to re-inforce
BMW’s core beliefs in creativity, sustainability and innovation. It further
ensures the engagement of artists with BMW’s eco-creations, to
promote a cleaner, greener world.

Needless to say, the winning artist, along with three runner-ups, will
score some generous rewards. While all participants will be featured
in an editorial piece on IAF Stories, the winner will be covered in an
exclusive editorial and a film produced by IAF, which may even be
screened at the fair.

Whether it is illuminating talks by leading artists or novel, thought-
provoking initiatives like the ‘The Future is Born of Art’ commission,
IAF 2022 aims to be a diverse and inclusive platform that embraces the
very best of South Asian art.

For more information, visit Indiaartfair.in

ACCESSORIES MINIMAL
EDGE
Age of access For Shro ,
statement
After nearly two years of shoulder-up dressing, party fine jewellery
clothes are firmly back on the agenda. And with and cool kicks
the return to dressing up, comes a move towards can complete
any look
accessorising. Malika Dalamal talks to three women
who let their accoutrements take centre stage

W hen it comes to conversa-
tion-starting accessories,
nothing sums up the
current mood quite like
the much-anticipated Met Gala in New
York in September. After a year’s hiatus,
the event saw attendees return in full fash-
ion force.

And as much as the focus was on the
head-turning looks, I don’t think it’s wrong
to say that this year the accessories, rang-
ing from the wonderful to the weird, com-
manded more of the spotlight. There was
that mesmerising Harris Reed and Dolce
& Gabbana feather head-dress on the
stately model Iman; the dazzling celestial
headband on actor Emily Blunt (Miranda
Priestly would de nitely approve); the at-
tention-grabbing, bold jewelled spider on
model Hunter Schafer; and the metal face
mask on Canadian singer Grimes, who
also carried a sword in place of a handbag

While over-the-top accessories like
these usually exist simply to go viral on
social media or make an artistic statement,
more wearable versions are making post-
pandemic revenge dressing all the more
fun. Joyful gems, like Fry Power’s stacking
ring and Robinson Pelham’s rainbow-col-
oured Murano glass necklace, are a quick
and easy way to brighten and lighten our
mood, while gigantic ts-all bags, like
those at Marni and Tod’s, ensure that (un-
like during lockdown) we don’t have to re-
turn home all day. And for next season,
when we hope that sweatpants and shoul-
der-up dressing will be rmly behind us,
you can expect everything from huge bows
to dramatic evening gloves, Art Nouveau
sunglasses, nely beaded headpieces and
jewellery in exaggerated proportions. One
thing is clear: we’ve missed dressing up.
So here’s to making up for lost time.

90 VOGUE INDIA DECEMBER 2021 www.vogue.in

GERALDINE HU ARM
APPROVED
JEWELLERY INFLUENCER AND COLLECTOR Layer upon
Singapore-based Geraldine Hu has been collecting
jewellery and accessories since she was 16 years old. layer of
Educated at Parsons School of Design, the Gemological necklaces and
Institute of America and Istituto Europeo di Design
in Milan, Hu started her Instagram account (@girl. arm stacks
with.a.diamond.earring) in 2019 as a creative outlet to inform Hu’s
document her artfully stacked and layered #neckmess, accessory style
#armcandy and #ringstack ensembles.
(@joannadahdah), Harwell Godfrey
JOYFUL JEWELS (@harwellgodfrey) for fine jewellery, BaubleBar
“Colourful, happy, shiny jewellery can definitely lift (@baublebar) and Roxanne Assoulin
spirits, spark joy, induce dopamine, give hope and help (@roxanneassoulin) for fun stu , Eliou (@eliou__)
with mental well-being.” and Olivia Dar (@oliviadar).”
COLOUR ME HAPPY
TALISMANS AND TOTEMS “Wear what feels comfortable, feels like you, and fits
“I’m drawn to evil eyes, especially by Lito your routine. When in doubt, just add colour.”
(@litofinejewelry). With so much uncertainty in
the world, a mythical form of strength and spiritual
protection is especially assuring.”

LUST LIST
“Brent Neale’s seashell pendants
(@brentnealejewelry). I am currently in search of the
perfect antique crescent or star pendant to go with a
chunky gold chain. I also love Maria Tash’s
(@mariatash) earrings—I never take mine o .”

THE ART OF DISCOVERY
“Since I started my Instagram account, I have
discovered countless brands I wouldn’t have otherwise
come across, including Joanna Dahdah

TANIA SHROFF accessories. I love all my beaded hand-made phone
wristlets from String Tings (@string_ting). They
FASHION INFLUENCER are an easy way to add some fun to a look.”
LABELS TO LOVE
Twenty-four-year-old London-born, Mumbai-raised “I’ve been collecting crystal bracelets recently and
Tania Shro ’s love for fashion dates back to her time love that they all stand for a di erent source of
studying at London College of Fashion. Today, the jet- energy and meaning. Other fun favourites include
setting millennial style icon combines her love of travel La Manso (@la_manso), Stinky Jewelz
with fashion, taking her 177K followers on a tour of (@stinkyjewelz) and Juicy Chews rings
the world’s most stylish destinations. (@juicychews) which are made from moulded resin.
I’m obsessed with chunky jewellery that can be
ICONIC STYLE stacked together.”
“Bianca Jagger in the 1970s and ’80s—she really SNEAKER HEAD
knew how to dress up and look like she hadn’t tried “Shoes have always been my go-to accessory, but
too hard. Her masculine touches, like the way she I only ever collected the ones I loved, not the ones
accessorised with hats and ties, was always spot on.” that were on-trend that everyone else wanted. In
general, I find having a good collection of footwear
FOLLOW YOUR MOOD helps complete any look.”
“My look is constantly evolving because it’s based IT’S PERSONAL
around my mood. It ranges from dramatic one-o “Fine jewellery is a timeless work of art and it can
pieces to something more subdued, depending on tell you a lot about someone’s personality. I don’t
where I am in the world and how I felt when I think I would ever buy or wear jewellery unless
woke up.” I really loved it or felt like it fit with who I am.”

ACCESSORISE YOUR ACCESSORIES www.vogue.in VOGUE INDIA DECEMBER 2021 91
“My phone is an important accessory and has its own

ACCESSORIES

NOSTALGIA
LADEN
Ana Correa
returns to
‘camp-chic’ in
craft-focused
accessories

ANA CORREA accessories, as they have such sentimental
value and also convey your personality. I
FOOTWEAR AND ACCESSORIES always wear three in timeless yellow gold in
EDITOR delicate chains and di erent lengths from
New York-based jewellery brand Catbird
The 35-year-old Parsons School of Design (@catbirdnyc).”
graduate has been a trend forecast strategist ONES TO WATCH
at WGSN, the global authority on consumer “Some of the brands on my radar include
and design trends, for over six years. An Centinelle (@centinelle), a California-based
accessories aficionado, her go-to items are sustainable brand of fun and timeless hand-
layered necklaces and straw bags. drawn silk scarves, homeware, lounge wear
and hair accessories. Emi Jay (@emijayinc)
ZOOM-CALL STYLING from Los Angeles for fun hair accessories.
“I stopped wearing bold accessories during And Blackcurrant Pop (@blackcurrantpop),
the height of the pandemic because it felt too who define themselves as ‘primary school
much. But for online client meetings I got a chic’. In the more high-end spectrum,
bit more ‘dressed up’, which always brought jewellery designer Bea Bongiasca
a sense of excitement. For me, it was bright (@beabongiasca), who redefines fine
lipstick, big earrings and a fun top.” jewellery with novelty shapes and bright
tones. For bags, Danse Lente (@danselente_
LIFT YOUR MOOD o cial), Cafuné (@cafune.o cial) and Hiems
“There’s an optimistic feeling that we are Cor (@hiemscor). And last but not least, the
experiencing globally in returning to real-life new project by Marc Jacobs, titled Heaven by
events. People are in need of a mood-boosting Marc Jacobs (@heavn), which brings back
look. A child-like aesthetic, bright colours the nostalgia of the late ’90s and 2000s with
and nostalgic motifs have been particularly classics like best-friend necklaces, chain belts
popular, like the super-trendy pearl necklaces and shoulder bags.”
that are mixed with colourful beads and THE NEXT BIG THING
charms. This camp-chic trend was definitely “The hair claw is a must for younger
very important during lockdown, referring consumers, thanks to its Y2K styling,
back to jewellery we made as kids.” practicality, and because fashion influencers
and models wear them.”
NEVER TAKE IT OFF
“Layered necklaces are my all-time favourite

92 VOGUE INDIA DECEMBER 2021 www.vogue.in



WATCHES

It’s complicated

A watch complication is the gold star of horology. Swiss watchmaker Audemars Piguet
prides itself in crafting such masterpieces, and boy, are they impressive, says Rishna Shah

T imekeeping is so much more than hours TIME CHECK
and minutes. For almost 150 years, From left: The
Audemars Piguet has been pushing the ‘Royal Oak
boundaries and rede ning the way we Concept Flying
read time. Its mechanical watches have become the Tourbillon’ watch
stars of the show, with their complications taking featuring a
the lead role. Sometimes these come in the form fabulous flying
of a chronograph, sometimes a tourbillon, and tourbillon; Anne-
sometimes a perpetual calendar. Today, complica- Gaëlle Quinet
tions are being celebrated more than ever before,
including the brand’s latest drop of ‘Royal Oak From left: ‘Code 11.59
Concept Flying Tourbillon’ watches that are both by Audemars Piguet
technically and aesthetically pleasing. Anne-Gaëlle Grande Sonnerie
Quinet, Audemars Piguet’s complications expert Carillon Supersonnerie’
tells us more: with Anita Porchet’s
dial interpretation, the
Rishna Shah: Historically, how signi cant are A CAROUSEL OF ‘Royal Oak O shore
complications in women’s watches? COMPLICATIONS Grande Complication’
Anne-Gaëlle Quinet: Audemars Piguet has craft- and the architectural
ed an array of mechanical watches for women since Quinet reveals her top picks tourbillon ‘Code 11.59
1875. Worn as pendants, brooches or rings, these by Audemars Piguet
timepieces played a trailblazing role in our quest for Along with the ‘Royal Oak Concept GMT’, these Tourbillon Openworked’
miniaturisation, which led to the development of two pieces were the rst to be endowed with a ying
the wristwatch in the early decades of the 20th cen- tourbillon.
tury. These feminine watches re ected the techni-
cal and aesthetic challenges of their respective era, RS: What is your favourite watch complication?
while often anticipating the evolving tastes and ex- AGQ: Chronographs always amaze me, especially a
pectations of their female clientele. Ranging from split-seconds chronograph that synchronises and
timeless and classic to avant-garde, these creations captures time with precision. I like the hypnosis of
included a wide range of eclectic case designs, vi- a tourbillon in motion and knowing its history and
brant dial nishes and exquisite gem-settings, as purpose. I also like the poetry and magic of listen-
well as the creative use of colourful stones. ing to a Minute Repeater chiming the time. ■

RS: In 1976 the rst ‘Royal Oak’ watch was cre-
ated for women, by a woman: Jacqueline Dimi-
er. Why was this such a milestone moment?
AGQ: Audemars Piguet has always been an avant-
garde brand, further con rmed by appointing Jac-
queline Dimier, a woman, as the head of product
design. She re-evaluated the proportion of the mas-
culine ‘Royal Oak’, with a new feminine version,
smaller, but by keeping its dimensions it could be
considered a jewellery piece.

RS: How have the complications evolved?
AGQ: In 2018, we launched the rst ‘Royal Oak
Concept’ models for women with two 38.5mm
timepieces, combining the collection’s futuristic de-
sign, micro-mechanics and age-old gem-setting.

94 VOGUE INDIA DECEMBER 2021 www.vogue.in

AW ’TWENTY21

AJMER-JAIPUR ROAD | AMRITSAR-MALVIYA ROAD | BAREILLY - CIVIL LINES-JACPL | CHANDIGARH - ELANTE MALL-2 | DEHRADUN - RAJPURA
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shop online @

THE FUTURE OF
SUSTAINABLE FASHION
Fashion designers, shutterbugs, models, and content creators the second edition of Blenders Pride Fashion

Tour s talent hunt, The Showcase, was rife with raw talent that proved to be a looking glass into

the future of sustainable fashion. Vogue shines the spotlight on the four lucky winners of the nationwide

competition that has established itself as the most definitive voice in the world of Indian fashion

In an association for the ages, powerhouses
Blenders Pride Fashion Tour and Fashion
Design Council of India (FDCI) collaborated
to bring the second edition of The Showcase
to life, which served to be a peek into
the future of fashion—creative, chic, and
conscious. Perhaps fashion’s most asked
question is how to transition towards a
sustainable future and to answer this burning
question, Blenders Pride Fashion Tour
points to a pioneering direction through
The Showcase 2021. Nurturing the idea of
‘reuse, repurpose, and reinvent’, the show was
anchored with the meaningful theme of ‘My
Planet, My Pride’.

Like always, it was an opulent a air, rife
with industry stalwarts and raw talent paving
the way to a world with a conscience. As an
authoritative voice in the industry, Blenders
Pride serves to be an eminent platform where
the next generation of fashion designers,
shutterbugs, models and content creators
catapult their career journey by showcasing
their talents.

While the concept of sustainability
was articulated throughout the show,
collaborative e ort was seen in the 10 teams
of four contestants including designers,
models, shutterbugs, and content creators
who came together to bring to spotlight
their creations helmed by eco-conscious
philosophies, mentored by the leading names
in fashion: Amit Aggarwal, Anju Modi, JJ
Valaya, Namrata Joshipura, Rahul Mishra,
Shantanu & Nikhil, Suneet Varma, Abraham
& Thakore, Rina Dhaka, Anamika Khanna
and Tarun Tahiliani. While the mentor panel
included the trailblazers of the industry, the
jury did too, feature the crème-de-la-crème
of fashion—Chairman of FDCI, Sunil
Sethi; actor and style icon Neha Sharma;
designer extraordinaire Gaurav Gupta;
content creator Masoom Minawala; celebrity
stylist Shaleena Nathani; and Bollywood’s
leading shutterbug Rahul Jhangiani.

experts has played an intrinsic role and I am
grateful for the experience that the platform
has given me.”

Urbasi Chowdhury Ishpreet Kaur TANAY BABBAR,

FASHION SHUTTERBUG
With the hope that winning the second
edition of ‘The Showcase’ would be a turning
point in his career, Tanay Babbar, a fashion
photographer from New Delhi says that
he is grateful to the Blenders Pride Fashion
Tour and FDCI for appreciating his talent
and hard work. “Being mentored by the
biggest names in the fashion industry such
as Abraham & Thakore has been nothing
short of a dream and their creative direction
helped my team develop the concept for
the final film. I will always cherish the journey
and the bond that I have created with my
teammates,” the shutterbug shares.

Tanay Babbar Naushad Ali URBASI CHOWDHURY,

The teams of aspirants from each and has been working with artisans in India, CONTENT CREATOR, MUMBAI
category together created beautiful to showcase the incredibly rich traditional Urbasi Chowdhury from Mumbai has been
ensembles, a final fashion film and social techniques that India as a country has to creating content in the fashion and lifestyle
media content that echoed their individuality o er. Talking about his journey, Ali says, “I space for over eight years. So when she
and unique sense of style. Naushad Ali, was fortunate to have extremely talented decided to participate in the talent hunt,
Fashion Designer; Ishpreet Kaur, Model; team members alongside me who made this she was most excited about getting to
Tanay Babbar, Fashion Shutterbug; and possible. It was also a great opportunity to work with the biggest names in the industry
Urbasi Chowdhury, Content Creator gained be mentored by the stalwarts of the industry and collaborating with other creators from
the coveted spots of the tour’s winners, along such as Mr. Sunil Sethi and Abraham & diverse fields. While calling it the most
with an opportunity to showcase their work Thakore. I am looking forward to the journey fulfilling and enriching experience in her
in the next edition of Blenders Pride Fashion that lies ahead of me.” life, Chowdhury says, “It seems like eight
Tour, the winners will also benefit from a years of passionately and consistently
long-term association with the Fashion ISHPREET KAUR, MODEL curating content around lifestyle and
Design Council of India and a cash prize. fashion has finally displayed its worth. Right
From registering for the second edition of from being shortlisted amongst the top 10
Let’s hear it from the winners themselves: the talent hunt to being declared a winner, content creators, to being mentored by the
winning The Showcase at the Blenders Pride dignitaries in the industry to working with
NAUSHAD ALI, Fashion Show was nothing short of a magical the finest creators from diversified fields, this
experience for Ishpreet Kaur, an aspiring journey has certainly been an exciting roller
FASHION DESIGNER model from New Delhi. But it wouldn’t have coaster ride and I can't wait to see how the
For fashion designer Naushad Ali who been possible without the support of her future unfolds.”
is based out of Pondicherry, winning the parents who always encouraged her to follow
second edition of The Showcase was a her dreams and gave her the courage and Coming a close second the first runner-up
defining moment in his career even as confidence to be who she was. “Being part team included designer Ada Mali from
he describes the entire experience as of The Showcase has been an empowering Mumbai, model Kanishka Maheshwari from
‘wholesome’. The designer who launched his journey. Getting mentored by industry Bareilly, shutterbug Shreyans Dungarwal
own label in 2015, has a minimalist aesthetic from Hyderabad and content creator
Aria Krishnamurti from Hyderabad. The
second runner-up team comprised designer
Sreegokul Viswanath from Kannur, model
Aniwarya Pawar from Mumbai, shutterbug
Pratim Shankar from Mumbai and content
creator Shriya Kandude from Hyderabad.

For more information, follow
@blenderspridefashiontour on Instagram

DESPATCH

Louis Vuitton and
the space oddity

The Louis Vuitton Resort 2022 collection takes the concept of cruise
to interstellar heights. Ready for take-off? By Divya Bala

T ravel has been tricky for a while, espe- sculptures in the world. Axe Majeur is considered a
cially for a brand built on the virtues of journey between space and time, a link between
the voyage (Louis Vuitton founded his past and present, integrating the urban with the
business on travel trunks, after all). So, natural environment. Built in the 1980s and taking
how to host a resort show—an exercise in fantasy, almost 30 years to realise, the site was part of a gov-
the extravagance of exoticism and the promise of ernment-initiated ‘satellite city’ project to relocate
the far flung—at a time of continued restriction? Parisians from the capital to new, self-sufficient
For Nicolas Ghesquière, artistic director of Louis towns. However, Karavan’s vision would see it as
Vuitton women’s collections, the answer lies in a the architecture of reconciliation, where water,
journey of the imagination, of possibility. light, wind, sand, concrete, stone and steel meet,
championing mankind and the human experience
“It’s this expression of enthusiasm. It’s the fantasy above a national agenda. “That is why in the Axe
of going somewhere,” Ghesquière told British Vogue Majeur, I invite people to climb up a 36-metre-high
following the release of his Cruise 2022 collection in tower where they can contemplate the beautiful
a world very much still grappling with the effects of view of the surroundings,” Karavan explained to
the pandemic. “Today, with what we’re experienc- Culture magazine.
ing, it’s a different approach.”

TIME TRAVEL ANOTHER WORLD COURTESY LOUIS VUITTON

Lockdown had lifted in France since the last round The sci-fi-esque setting holds 12 individual architec-
of resort offerings (then, Louis Vuitton’s Cruise tural ‘stations’ through which the film short pans
2021 presentation was released as a fast-cut film through, a sweeping drone shot winds from the Ile
shot in studio, paying homage to ‘the contradiction Astronomique to Le Douze Colonnes and Le Jardin
of a stationary journey’, as per collection notes). des Droits de l’Homme, culminating in the fire-en-
However, with global travel restrictions still in place gine red La Passerelle installation that served as a
—and destinations such as the previous years’ so- catwalk, set against an optimistic, synth-heavy
journs to Rio De Janeiro, Kyoto or Monaco off the soundtrack by British producer Julian Emery.
cards—Ghesquière chose to stay close to the house’s
home base, choosing Cergy-Pontoise, a northwest- These sites and sounds provide fertile ground for
ern suburb of Paris, as the setting for the collection. Ghesquière’s exploration of what it means to travel
And, more specifically, Axe Majeur, a utopic, futur- and what it will mean to discover new places, with
istic art installation by the late Israeli humanist the near possibility of space tourism being the col-
sculptor Dani Karavan. lection’s starting point. “I don’t know why, but it was
always an obsession to reflect on futurism, space
At three kilometres long, the installation is argu- conquest and what we might call ‘the space colony,’”
ably one of the largest environmental, site-specific explained Ghesquière to British Vogue. “The titans >

98 VOGUE INDIA DECEMBER 2021 www.vogue.in

IN FRAME
A few miles away from

Paris, Axe Majeur,
by the late Israeli
humanist sculptor
Dani Karavan, set the
scene for a future-
ready resort collection

by Louis Vuitton

PASS OVER COURTESY LOUIS VUITTON
Indo-French model
Ashley Radjarame

walked the show
wherein the

collection boasts the
heritage codes of the

house intertwined
with a sci-fi bent

100 VOGUE INDIA DECEMBER 2021 www.vogue.in