Vogue IN 12.2021

of the world are investing in it, and what looked DESPATCH
unreal in the past is now bringing us closer to space.
And I have to say, I think it’s great. It’s really BACK TO THE
progressive for all of us.” FUTURE
Details from
INFINITY AND BEYOND the collection
included cowboy
Indeed, the designer’s portfolio has long been laden boots with a
with a love of futurism, his collections a riff on the space-age lilt alongside
heritage codes of the house, intertwined with a sci-fi bags of the future
bent. Take, for example, Ghesquière’s casting of the
Final Fantasy XIII character Lightning in his
spring/summer 2016 campaign for Louis Vuitton, a
first for an anime or computer game character, his
Tron-inspired colour work, interstellar silhouettes
and spacesuit references dotted throughout every
collection.

FUTURE CLASSICS

For Cruise 2022, this stargazing is articulated
through planetary prints dotted with earthly details
such as a basketball court and an escalator (“Those
prints in a light and fun way are about the domesti-
cation of our future conquests of those planets,”
Ghesquière explained), retro-futuristic cowboy
boots fit for space travel, lantern shoulders, dramat-
ic ruffled capes, wing-like crop jackets, bubble
hemmed dresses (like the one worn in optic
white by Indo-French model Ashley Radjarame)>

www.vogue.in VOGUE INDIA DECEMBER 2021 101

DESPATCH COURTESY LOUIS VUITTON

“I like the concept
of a stargate—an
imaginary portal that
can transport us,
our feelings and our
wishes to someone or
something we love”

—N I CO LAS G HE SQU IÈ RE

102 VOGUE INDIA DECEMBER 2021 www.vogue.in

BIRD’S EYE
A panoramic view of
the scene that doubled
up as a metaphorical
time machine for
Ghesquière’s collection

holographic sheens, nebula-printed separates, para- COME FLY WITH ME
chute pleats and trousers with padded quilting
reminiscent of spacesuits. A particularly pro- “I like the concept of a stargate—an imaginary por-
nounced marching-band-meets-Star-Trek aesthet- tal that can transport us, our feelings and our wishes
ic introduced structured looks, a departure from to someone or something we love,” Ghesquière said.
traditional resort wear, with shoulder pads and ep- “I wanted to give this jaunt of energy, a pure fashion
aulette details alongside a reimagining of the Since moment in less than eight minutes, to show that
1854 range in a space grey tonal colourway. those connections weren’t lost with what we experi-
enced.” n

www.vogue.in VOGUE INDIA DECEMBER 2021 103

EXCLUSIVE

The party
starter

Label Ritu Kumar has a new face and
feel, with rising star Shanaya Kapoor

ushering in an era of high-octane
spontaneity. It’s a soirée you want to
RSVP yes to. By Praachi Raniwala

S hanaya Kapoor loves to dance. But you LET’S DANCE
probably already knew that if you’ve ever Gen-Z star
found yourself on her Instagram profile. Shanaya Kapoor’s
So it comes as no surprise that Kapoor de- athleisure and
cided to combine “two of my most favourite vintage style melds
things—fashion and dance” in her latest campaign perfectly with
for Label Ritu Kumar. The soon-to-be debutante Label Ritu Kumar’s
actor grooves like a natural fit in this latest rendi- new collection
tion of the brand’s #JustDanceWithLabel series.
“My ultimate go-to for a
With dance an integral part of the campaign’s night out is a well-fitted
narrative, the need was for a young, bold personal- black slip dress and
ity to add energy to the campaign film, reminiscent strappy heels”
of a 2000s musical, shot in a vintage cinema set-up.
This marks Label Ritu Kumar’s first athleisure —S HA N AYA K AP OOR
line—printed co-ord sets, its first-ever puffer jack-
ets, pullovers, cosy knits, party-ready dresses and spirator and she is quick to point towards her mother,
form-flattering denims—that Kapoor embodies ef- jewellery designer and reality TV star Maheep Ka-
fortlessly as an extension of her style. “Shanaya’s poor. “She has really shaped my style. I love shopping
infectious personality shines through and conveys with her whenever we travel because she always picks
Label’s philosophy: functional and on-trend, ideal out some really cool pieces for me.” Movies have also
for those seeking to elevate their wardrobe with a allowed the 22-year-old to craft her own sensibility. “I
contemporary touch,” says Amrish Kumar, manag- took inspiration from several iconic characters, like
ing and creative director at Ritu Kumar. Poo in Kabhi Khushi Kabhie Gham (2001), Elvira
Hancock in Scarface (1983) and Ginger McKenna in
Kapoor, who describes her personal style as Casino (1995), to eventually figure out my own style.
“young, fresh, quirky and edgy” resonated with the Now I enjoy styling myself and experimenting with
collection’s versatility, which allows her to be spon- my clothes.” n
taneous and carefree with the way she chooses to
style it. “The sequinned LBD is my absolute go-to
from the line—you can’t go wrong with a well-fitted
black slip dress and strappy heels for a night out,”
says the style-savvy Zoomer.

Kapoor’s ultimate sartorial staple is a good pair
of boyfriend jeans. “I love baggy jeans, which I wear
with my lucky blue Jordans, a fitted white crop top,
gold jewellery and a vintage shoulder bag from my
mum,” she reveals. Her most recent accessory ob-
session? Classic black sunglasses from Le Specs.

Ask Kapoor about her biggest fashion co-con-

104 VOGUE INDIA DECEMBER 2021 www.vogue.in



SPOTLIGHT

Jacket, Richard
Quinn. Hair
pins, Misho

Value add

Gen Z’s shopping carts are individualistic and unexpected, says
Meera Navlakha, as she discovers how the demographic is placing

its identity at the heart of what it wears

W hat you wear is how you pre- ated that pulls in this persuasive cluster of consum-
sent yourself to the world,” ers. Gen Z is humanising fashion and becoming a
Miuccia Prada once said. Ar- self-proclaimed purveyor of its metamorphosis into
guably, no one understands the 21st century. With its purchases, it is placing its
this more than Gen Z. As a 24-year-old myself, identity at the heart of what it wears, how it dresses,
I have seen this in the people I am surrounded by, and what it buys. Some of its members cloak them-
on my Instagram feed, and even with myself. It is selves in their roots, with threads from their herit-
our demographic that is reinventing and rede ning age and homelands. Some infuse their street-style
fashion, a fact further con rmed by gures. Fash- looks with second-hand items. Others address their
ion houses are moulding themselves to draw in sexuality, uidity, and freedom with every sartorial
style-conscious Gen Z, o ering it increasingly digi- concoction. Here are three leading Gen-Z style
tally-savvy shopping, optimistic and healthy atti- icons, each connoisseurs in their own right, discuss
tudes to beauty, and ethical approaches to it all. It is the key pieces and aesthetic values that make up
fashion that is principled, individualistic, and liber- their wardrobes.

106 VOGUE INDIA DECEMBER 2021 www.vogue.in

“Holding all that history MUSICAL ARTIST
against my skin is a
constant reminder of INGREDIENT: DIASPORA
why I do everything I do” FUSION

PHOTO: KIRAN GIDDA; PRODUCER AND STYLIST: SACHIN Shirt, skirt, bomber Nayana IZ belts out dreamy vocals
GOGNA; HAIR AND MAKE-UP: KARLA QUINONEZ LEON jacket bag; all interspersed with rap, never
Versace. Hooded failing to present her heritage.
jacket, Zilver. Boots, The London-born singer says
Miu Miu. Rings; her wardrobe comes to her in
necklace; both
Misho. Gold necklace, spontaneous bursts, “a reflection
Schiaparelli of how my heart is feeling”.

This could mean anything from
“masculine tailoring with feminine

touches, or straight princess
energy”, she says. Her outfits are

reflective of her birth city via
baggy pu er jackets, knee-high
boots and ski masks. Yet, these
Western, seasonally-appropriate
tastes are complemented by a
nod to India, whether found in
the gold nathnis she dons, or the
lehengas she intermixes daily
with jeans and miniskirts. She
says that jewellery passed down
from generations before her is the
greatest expression of the past.
“Holding all that history against
my skin is a constant reminder
of why I do everything I do,” she
says. In her profession, this plays

a role too. IZ’s grandmother,
who was once a Thang-Ta sword
dancer based in Manipur, is her

ultimate source of inspiration.
“She would pour her whole heart

into every performance, she
would bless the grounds before
she performed upon them.” Her
granddaughter is certainly taking
the same approach. @Nayanaiz

www.vogue.in VOGUE INDIA DECEMBER 2021 107

SPOTLIGHT Shirt, skirt, pouch JACQUES BURGA (GAURAVI)
and necklace; all
ENTREPRENEUR AND The PDKF Store
FOUNDER

INGREDIENT: SMALL-
BRAND ENERGY

Princess Gauravi Kumari has a wealth
of tradition and heritage to draw

inspiration from when it comes to her
closet. With royal roots (her mother
is Princess Diya Kumari of Jaipur) and
a title to match, the younger princess
pulls threads from her heritage but
harnesses this into small-brand energy
to define her own shopping tendencies.
Kumari says, “A lot of the patterns
and motifs on most of my Indian wear
are inspired by the immense textile
collection we have in our museum

at City Palace, and sometimes by
motifs from the various decorated
walls and ceilings of the palace or
other traditional Rajasthani floral or
geometric patterns.” Her personal style
finds its feet in Rajasthani history—
hand-blocked clothes, and handwoven
accessories in rainbow hues—but
borrows from everyday casual too. The
latter is Kumari’s go-to, constructed via
denim jeans, white crop-tops, a pair of
evergreen sneakers and a shoulder bag.
She is also the co-founder of the small
but impactful Princess Diya Kumari
Foundation Store, a joint venture with
French designer Claire Deroo. The
store “weaves the trendy with the
traditional” while also providing “a
direct platform to the women artisans
of Rajasthan to showcase their skills
to a global audience”. Her brand, like
the princess herself, centres the beauty
of legacy, colour and design, uplifting
tradition and the region’s culture with

each ensemble. @thepdkfstore

“Textiles are part of the cultural and
artistic heritage of Jaipur, and we
are dedicated to keeping them alive”

108 VOGUE INDIA DECEMBER 2021 www.vogue.in



SPOTLIGHT

Shirt, tank top,
trousers; all T’s
Armoire. Shoes,
Nike from
Sneakerhood.
Necklace,
Inaavae

“I love the versatility
of sneakers and the
comfort they provide”

I N F L U E N C E R A N D C O N T E N T C R E A T O R | INGREDIENT: SNEAKERHEAD
One look at Priyam Yonzon’s style and you’ll be scrambling to find out how they put together each perfectly-curated, o beat
ensemble. A social media star, with over 140K followers on Instagram and a burgeoning number of YouTube subscribers, Zonzon
says they love “envisioning, bringing concepts to life and creating content of all formats”. As a creator, they work with Pride Nest,
a collective of digital influencers (part of the wider Creators Nest) which represents the LGBTQ+ community via its content. It
fits well: Yonzon doesn’t separate identity from aesthetic, but rather welds the two together. Their style is a melting pot of 1970s
glamour (a time they cite as a focal source of inspiration) and sneakerhead culture. To define a wardrobe so eclectic is a task, but
Yonzon explains that their standard shopping cart pieces together oversized blazers, a classic pair of Nike Air Force 1s, geometric
black sunglasses and straight-fit denim jeans. “These gems end up becoming your ride or die,” they say. Each item is not only
reflective of the e ortless, androgynous street style they have become synonymous with, but also of their shopping cart which

merges distinctive qualities with constant sartorial experimentation. @priyamyonzon
110 VOGUE INDIA DECEMBER 2021 www.vogue.in

EXPLORING LAKSHADWEEP

With Cordelia Cruises, unexplored paths lead to undiscovered treasures

It is often said that exploring the unexplored Cordelia Cruises is sure to be an unmatched With the journey being as exciting as
is the best part of being a traveller. And experience unlike any other. the destination, guests can choose from
when it comes to travelling within India, itineraries departing from Mumbai as well
there are several offbeat destinations and Accessible from Kochi by ships and as Kochi. Guests can experience premium
novel places waiting to be discovered. The flights, visiting this environmentally five nights on-board services, unmatched
beautiful union territory of Lakshadweep sensitive archipelago entails a good deal hospitality, state-of-the-art amenities,
that is incidentally India’s smallest union of preparation in terms of obtaining unlimited activities, and the best of Indian
territory is one such treasure. This stunning permits, clearances, and permissions from and global cuisine.
archipelago consisting of 36 islands with the relevant authorities. It is key to note
an area of 32 sq km is a paradise that is as that Lakshadweep is a destination that is So, what are you waiting for? Set sail on
enchanting as exciting. replete with highly fragile ecological and an incredible journey, get set to cruise to
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With Cordelia cruises your dream of visiting For more information,
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you think. Cruising on the Empress, guests always been an obstacle for travel
can choose from a plethora of activities enthusiasts who’d wish to visit this
while soaking in the local culture of this little unexplored and pristine islands. While it
union territory. From kayaking, snorkelling, is possible to sail out of Kochi by ship, it
glass bottom boat rides, scuba diving to nearly takes a full day of sailing and few
local village tours that encompass cultural smaller boat rides to reach this destination.
and food experiences, Lakshadweep with Cordelia Cruises have resolved this big gap
in Indian tourism industry and made travel
to Lakshadweep effortless.

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PHOTO: FELICITY INGRAM. STYLIST: LORNA MCGEE BEAU SN NI

FOCUS

Fresh start

Most resolutions are likely ditched, but once you rebrand some of
the things you’re already doing and give them direction, you’ll be on

your way to a better 2022. Here’s your tool kit. By Avanti Dalal

www.vogue.in VOGUE INDIA DECEMBER 2021 113

FOCUS

MAKE REST YOUR mindfulness at the University of Southern “Having rest days and
PRIORITY California. “Be okay with starting small. down time allows muscles
Begin with three to five minutes at the best to replenish, adapt and
Let’s put a moratorium on revenge bed- time of the day for you. Once five minutes become stronger”
time scrolling, shall we? Sometimes the feels manageable you can increase your
best way to reset and recentre is to reinvest meditation time to longer practices. “Some —ANI SH A JOS HI , OST EOPATH
in sleep. “Sleeping enables your body to re- days your practice is peaceful and easy,
pair and be fit for another day. Having rest other days it’s tough. But no matter what ing to put together a complicated routine
days and downtime allows muscles to you get when you sit on your cushion, greet that treats everything is far more effective.
replenish, adapt and become stronger. it with kindness. The important thing is Doing too much may mean that you’re not
You cannot improve anything in your body that you showed up for yourself and that’s doing anything well,” confirms Dr Joshua
if you don’t give it any time to heal and enough,” says Laurasia Mattingly, a medi- Zeichner, director of cosmetic and clinical
recover,” says Anisha Joshi, a London- tation and mindfulness instructor, author research in dermatology at Mount Sinai
based osteopath. Is working out the num- and speaker. Hospital in New York City. If you feel a
ber-one item on your resolution list? Joshi breakout coming on, head it off at the pass
suggests prioritising total rest days in PRACTISE INTUITIVE with a pre-emptive swipe of an AHA-BHA
between, as gains are made when you rest. SKINCARE peel pad. If your skin feels dry, add a rich
It’s the time that your muscles can be re- face mask into your routine. And use sun-
paired and built. Your skincare routine might be thriving on screen. That should be a skincare resolu-
order—you start with an AHA toner, you tion that never changes.
FIND TIME FOR MIND- always end with a face oil, and your seven
FULNESS steps are non-negotiable. But if all those DON’T RELY ONLY ON
products and all those routines are feeling AT-HOME SKINCARE
Stop thinking you’re too busy to slow like more of a to-do list than a ritual (and
down. “If you have time to check social are leaving your skin red, inflamed and You might have figured out what worked
media a few times a day or watch TV itchy even still), you might want to slow for you while in lockdown—face massages,
shows during the week, you most definite- things down and add or subtract products dry brushing, ice rollers—but now that you
ly have three to five minutes a day to be in and techniques only when you need. “Fo- can see your facialist or dermatologist,
your meditation practice,” says Amanda cusing on a specific issue rather than try- make that appointment. “Try advanced
Gilbert, meditation teacher and lecturer of peels instead of relying on dermaplan-
ing—it can only cause skin irritation, dry-
ness, sensitivity, risk of cuts and scarring,
and bacterial spread if you don’t do it care-
fully,” says facialist Mimi Luzon. Instead,
make a plan for your skin with a pro and
keep to a schedule that will work for you.

PUT YOUR MENTAL PHOTO: FELICITY INGRAM. STYLIST: LORNA MCGEE
HEALTH FIRST

The workings of our mind play a major
role in our well-being. Our mind and body
are connected. Research shows that find-
ing the best coping strategies for your
mental health is important for the longev-
ity of your lifespan. “Stress, trauma,
depression, anxiety and anger are linked to
chronic illness and poor interpersonal re-
lationships, which we need to not only sur-
vive but to thrive,” says Dr Courtney Tracy,
LCSW, PsyD. Going to therapy, doing the
work and figuring out what your coping
mechanisms are is key. “I always say that
one of the most important things about >

114 VOGUE INDIA DECEMBER 2021 www.vogue.in





FOCUS

your well-being is the truth about what diets (“No macro should be demonised about what your goal is. Do you want to
happened, how it made you feel, who you and have strict limitations,” she says) and feel relaxed after every practice? Do you
are, and what you want in your life,” she replace the urge for validation by reflecting want to improve your back bending? Do
says. inward, so that whatever lifestyle or nutri- you want more flexible hips? Do you want
tion tweaks you make will be for the right to get more functional so you can move
SHOP YOUR OWN MAKE- reasons—and so much more sustainable. better? “Once you attain a goal, you can
UP KIT move to the next one,” she confirms.
MOVE MORE
Instead of constantly looking to new re- LEARN HOW TO REALLY
leases and ordering every limited-edition Can’t wake up early enough to get in a DO YOUR HAIR
palette, taking a more mindful approach workout before you start work? Always
to consumerism may serve as a less waste- have too much on your plate to make it to You might know the perfect cat-eye shape
ful strategy for 2022. Plus, you’ll get to ex- a workout class? It is all too easy to find for your face or the best lipstick colour to
periment more by fishing through your reasons to skip exercise when you can’t make you feel confident, but styling your
own makeup kit and playing with the commit to all that time. “Start slow, try dif- own strands can be the wild, wild west.
products you have. “A lipstick can easily be ferent workout forms and then commit to “Embracing your natural texture is one of
used as a cream blush—use the warmth of one you enjoy,” says Radhika Bose, fitness the best things to come out of 2021 be-
your fingers to tap it into the apples of the influencer and founder of Yogasini. You cause glossy, healthy locks always look the
cheeks. You can also use a lip balm or oil don’t have to chalk out an hour every day if best,” says Los Angeles-based hairstylist
for a cheek highlight, and I often use my you can’t, but climb the stairs instead of Matthew Collins, who often works with
bronzer as eyeshadow. Hairspray can also taking the elevator, add in a few jumping Gigi Hadid and Karlie Kloss. But if you
be used as a brow gel—simply spray on an jacks before your Zoom call and walk eve- want to fake it, he says that the blow-out is
eyebrow brush and brush the hair spray rywhere you possibly can. back. “Polished hair with vintage volume
through the brows to hold them in place,” and round brushing will make a big come-
says Tobi Henney, a New York City-based MAKE SPECIFIC FITNESS back,” he confirms. Want to figure out how
makeup artist who works with Ashley Gra- GOALS to do it yourself? This is the time to learn
ham and Olivia Culpo. from a pro or watch a tutorial and brush
“Simplify,” says Deepika Mehta, a Mum- up on your skills. n
ADD NAIL CARE TO bai-based yoga teacher. “Get very clear
YOUR REGIMEN

When it comes to nail art, you don’t always
have to go the simple route. “Y2K has been
inspiring fashion and beauty across the
board, and I think it’ll translate to nail art
as well. Think: butterflies,” says Betina
Goldstein, an editorial, campaign, and ce-
lebrity nail artist. “Metallics will be popu-
lar too, especially colours like chrome, gold
and brass.” But when you’re playing, don’t
forget to give your nails some TLC too. “Do
not pick your gels off. Proper gel removal is
the key to a healthy nail. Exfoliate your
hands twice a week and massage Vitamin
E oil and SPF onto your hands and cuti-
cles,” she confirms.

PHOTO: FELICITY INGRAM. STYLIST: LORNA MCGEE TAKE A WELL-ROUNDED
APPROACH TO YOUR
DIET

“The biggest change I’d tell everyone to
make in 2022 is to please stop thinking
that your body carries the weight of your
worth. Stop trying to lose weight to seek
external validation. Because it’s almost
never about the food. It’s always about the
emotions attached to the food,” says
Dubai-based nutritionist Rashi Chowd-
hary. Skip restrictive keto and low-carb

www.vogue.in VOGUE INDIA DECEMBER 2021 117

SPOTLIGHT

The rhythm is
going to get you

Simulating sex in spandex back in the ’80s, and now the official
workout video to Dua Lipa’s ‘Physical’, aerobics has everyone
dancing to its tunes again, says Shabana Patker-Vahi

118 VOGUE INDIA DECEMBER 2021 www.vogue.in

A still from YOUMROBVOEDY
Olivia Newton- Nawaz Modi
Singhania’s tips to an
John’s 1981
song, ‘Physical’ at-home dance
workout

PREP: Make your
favourite playlist
TECHNIQUE: Add-on

exercises
METHOD: Do each move

for 8-16 counts. Start
with one and add the
next. Then back to the
beginning and add a third
EXERCISE SEQUENCE:
March/jog. Wide-legged
march/jog. Alternate
knee lifts. Front leg kicks.
Side leg kicks. Hamstring
curls. Back leg kicks. Step
touches. Squats. Jumping
jacks. Scissors. Power

lunges. Grapevines

STEFANO GULAZZI W hen Olivia Newton-John magnitude that industry giant Nike had to American Medical Association that made
said in 1981 to “Let me shake up its system to compete with a then the now-seemingly-seamless connection
hear your body talk”, an little-known brand called Reebok, which between aerobic activity and cardiovascu-
entire generation an- cashed in on the trend with the now iconic lar health. Speaking on the enduring pop-
swered her dance-pop siren call by don- white sneaker, which was then known as ularity of aerobics, Dr Cooper attributes it
ning their brightest leotards, tights (and the aerobics shoe. Everyone had a pair. not just to physical fitness but also to
leg warmers) and got into the aerobics mental health maintenance. “Scientific
groove to the tune of her smash hit, ‘Physi- Today, aerobics shows no signs of slow- studies have indicated that people who
cal’. Me included, though that wasn’t until ing down. From spawning off-shoots like are physically fit are less depressed, have
almost a decade later. Yet the seeds were bachata and Zumba to step workouts pro- improved self-image and a more positive
sown and aerobics or ‘dancercise’ as it was gressing into HIIT and circuit training, attitude towards life. So, feeling good
called back in the day, was well on its way this cardio-funk craze is clearly here to post- exercise isn’t just physical or psy-
to becoming a global lifestyle trend, not stay. But what makes it popular, besides its chological. It’s also biochemical because
just a passing health fad. sartorial significance? And why has the of the release of endorphins, which gives
pandemic played such a large role in its re- you a natural high.”
Aerobics was more than just bored surgence? We get the experts to weigh in.
housewives making half-hearted attempts Nawaz Modi-Singhania, the doyenne of
at getting back in shape in front of their TV STEP BY STEP fitness in India and the founder of Body
sets. It became, quite literally, a move- Art fitness studios, concurs, adding,
ment. Jane Fonda spawned an empire Dr Kenneth H Cooper, called the ‘father “Aerobics comes with a host of benefits in-
with her home workout videos in 1982, of aerobics’, coined the word for his tome cluding weight loss, sculpting and toning,
Richard Simmons turned pounds-shed- Aerobics in 1968, a groundbreaking study cardiac and respiratory benefits, improved
ding sequences into sheer flamboyance, on the benefits of aerobics on health. His self-esteem, better sleep, lower blood pres-
donning only the brightest, most eye- 1972 book, Aerobics For Women, brought sure and lower blood sugar. In these times,
catching lycra outfits that changed the face a slew of criticism on everything from when mental health and isolation-related
of ’80s fashion—stretchy, shiny, they made health implications to social and behav- anxiety is on a sharp rise, exercise releases
exercising in a rainbow of colours de ri- ioural implications of women exercising. our feel-good hormones—endorphins,
geur. This craze of aerobics reached such a It was his 1989 study on ‘How much exer- serotonin and dopamine.” >
cise is enough?’ in the Journal of the

www.vogue.in VOGUE INDIA DECEMBER 2021 119

SPOTLIGHT

SHAOUKTE IT Clockwise, from top left: Dua Lipa released
a workout music video for her song
Follow these online ‘Physical’ in 2020; Jane Fonda with Mike
fitness platforms to Douglas during the taping of the The
Mike Douglas Show; Jamie Lee Curtis in
get moving Perfect (1985); Jane Fonda at the Workout
Exercise Gym in Beverly Hills in 1979
POPSUGAR FITNESS:
Free online videos with
every dance workout

from Bollywood to
HIIT cardio to hip-hop

routines
DANCE BODY: High-
impact aerobics with
ankle and wrist weights
to increase intensity
ADRIANA MARTINEZ:
Latin dance aerobic
routines including salsa,
samba, bachata moves

MKIK808: Mark
Kanemura’s wildly
popular live session
Instagram dance parties

PUMP UP THE JAM fun ways of keeping fit. There is a natural way to encourage social bonding with the GETTY IMAGES
urge in us to find ways to remain happy, use of technology. We can access classes
Dance, in all its forms, is the endorphin especially during this pandemic. The even if we can’t be in the same room to-
boost we could all do with. In India, it’s not growing awareness and importance of gether. The ability to express yourself
surprising that an online dance workout mental health also plays a role in the physically, while moving in rhythm with
search throws up countless results of vide- comeback of dancercise. Plus, it’s really others, helps you feel a sense of connection
os with millions of views (and counting). easy to access an online class or follow and belonging. It’s a great way to break the
An ear for music and a natural affinity to videos from the comfort of your home.” isolation, even for a short period of time.”
rhythmic motion, we are a country of in-
numerable established dance forms with a Modifications and playing to individual Uplifting music, group energy, encour-
penchant for learning new ones. From strengths is the backbone of Mexico-based agement and motivation, social bonding
classical and traditional to Bollywood and online fitness membership platform Body while in semi-isolation (not to mention
folk, fitness instructors have been incorpo- Groove, whose founder Misty Tripoli’s visible results and cute outfits), the aero-
rating dance moves and music to create philosophy is simple—if you can move, you bics formula for success seems pretty fool-
their own blend of aerobic exercise. Bhan- can groove. Counting a global audience proof. Add in that, by definition, aerobics
gra, garba and Bollywood moves are sta- from USA, UK, Canada, Denmark, Aus- means ‘in the presence of oxygen’ and it’s
ples in almost every online fitness class, tralia, Latvia, Turkey, Argentina, Mexico, not hard to understand why it has
practised by people of all ages. Sonica Nigeria, Italy, Germany, South Africa and remained a lifeline for millions around the
Shah, choreographer and dance fitness in- India, the fostering of community and in- world for decades. As Dr Cooper puts it:
structor who collaborates with the hugely clusivity is a high point of the programme. “Get involved in a programme which you
popular Bombay Bootcamp fitness fran- “We empower women to take charge of are going to enjoy and I can guarantee you
chise, attributes this surge to the pandemic their health and happiness through move- are going to feel better if you exercise
pushing a captive audience to find newer ment that boosts self-awareness and confi- regularly and keep it up. Fitness is a
ways of staying sane in home confinement. dence, regardless of race, age, location or journey, not a destination. You’ve got to
“People are resorting to newer and more demographic. Dance workouts are a great keep it up for the rest of your life.” n

120 VOGUE INDIA DECEMBER 2021 www.vogue.in



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MERT ALAS AND MARCUS PIGGOTT. BLOUSE, TROUSERS; BOTH GUCCI New
territory

• Natasha Poonawalla
embodies grit and glamour
• Gilded accessories get extra
love for the party season
• Denim redone, rethought

and reinvented
• Inside John Galliano’s

French hideaway
• Spotlighting regional
writing with the JCB Prize for

literature
• A peek at a fragrance
inspired by Mumbai

EYEVIEW

A QUIET
REVOLUTION

A bright light in the world of philanthropy and high society, Natasha Poonawalla
is ready to strip her public image of a fashionable socialite and emerge as a high-
impact woman who can handle grit as well as glamour. The LSE graduate, who
has been on the front lines of the vaccine crusade, sits with Radhika Seth to give

us a rare peek behind the curtain

Photographed by MERT ALAS AND MARCUS PIGGOTT Styled by DENA GIANNINI

128

Dress, Laquan Smith

Gown, Valentino. Elsa
Peretti bone cuffs,
Tiffany & Co.

T his year, people have realised what I do,” says Natasha Poonawalla with a wry
smile. We’re sitting in the cavernous library of her home in
London’s Mayfair, which is piled high with coffee-table books and contempo-
rary art, and the 40-year-old looks more amused than contemplative. As the
executive director of the Serum Institute of India (SII), the world’s largest vaccine maker,
she—alongside her husband, the company’s CEO Adar Poonawalla and his father, the
chairman and managing director Cyrus Poonawalla—has been at the forefront of the
global fight against COVID-19. She’s also the chair of the Villoo Poonawalla Charitable
Foundation (named after her late mother-in-law), is active in the family’s horse racing
and breeding business, and is a mother of two. But over the last decade, she’s been labelled
a socialite almost as often as a businesswoman. “I think I was misjudged a little bit,” she
adds. “People saw me dressing up and said, ‘She’s that fashion person on the racecourse.’
But I didn’t feel the need to expose the serious part of my life to everyone.”

CALLING THE SHOTS

That happened naturally as the world was turned on its head towards the beginning of
2020 and the work that had continued quietly at SII for 54 years suddenly became crucial
to our immediate socioeconomic survival. Natasha remembers hearing about the virus for
the first time, fearing for her asthmatic young son and the moment when everything
ground to a halt. The family ended up staying at their farmhouse in Pune, 10 minutes
from the factory, and sprang into action. Adar and Cyrus took a multimillion-dollar
gamble on the most promising vaccines, stockpiling doses before clinical trials had
confirmed their efficacy. Natasha, meanwhile, focused on distributing personal protective
equipment, testing kits and food to those in need. When the first vaccine was approved,
she says it felt “incredible”. There was no time to celebrate then, but she hopes that there
will be soon, now that a billion vaccine doses have been administered across India.

Their successes have, of course, been coloured by devastating loss. India’s death toll is
nearing half a million, a number which rose sharply during a catastrophic second wave
when the demand for hospital beds and oxygen outstripped supply. “At that point, every-
one thought that we’d passed the worst phase,” Natasha says gravely. “We saw so many
people suffer.” It also meant that SII was directed to prioritise the needs of the nation over
its global commitments, including to Covax, the vaccination initiative which sends
supplies to developing nations. “I always thought the vaccine would be distributed equi-
tably,” she continues. “Obviously, we’re Indian and whatever the nation needs, it should
have, but we were so worried about what was going to happen in [countries in] Africa,
South America and the places that didn’t have any vaccines because we’d already said
we’d send it out. Our hands were tied. We thought, ‘Are we doing the right thing?’”

PERFECT FIT

As a child, these were not the sort of questions Natasha expected to grapple with later in
life. She tells me that her upbringing in Pune, near the Osho ashram, was largely tradi-
tional. “I was not anywhere close to ambitious,” she admits. “I was raised with the notion
that education was very important, but the women around me were running homes and
taking care of people.” She credits her stint at the London School of Economics, where she
studied organisational behaviour and change management, with opening her eyes to
other possibilities. Months later, she met Adar in Goa on her first-ever trip without her
parents. “We didn’t really drink or party,” she grins. “We got to know each other and
laughed a lot. I told him, ‘We’re going to be really good friends.’”

The pair eventually began dating, but found long distance difficult. “He wanted to be
back at work in Pune and I was at that stage where I wanted to see the world,” she sighs.
“I was like, ‘I’m in London, I want to work.’ He was like, ‘Come and work with me. It’ll be
so much fun!’ And I said, ‘That’s crazy! We’re just dating.’ He went back to India and I was
here for about two years after that, finishing my master’s. We’d see each other every few
months. His focus was clear from day one. He was like, ‘I like you. I know I want to get
married. This is it.’” >

131

“I think I was misjudged a little bit. People saw me
dressing up and said, ‘She’s that fashion person on the
racecourse.’ But I didn’t feel the need to expose the

serious part of my life to everyone”

THE GOOD LIFE

After marriage, Natasha joined the family business almost immediately. “My father-in-
law introduced me to the board and said, ‘We’re putting her to work.’” At SII, she was
initially sent to every department to get her bearings as an intern. “I saw everything from
the investment side to the production side. After that, it was like, ‘Now that you’ve done
this, what are your thoughts on it?’ Or ‘What happened with that?’ Every day at the dinner
table, every minute, was a test. Culturally, I didn’t speak out. Before that, I’d been told,
‘Don’t speak above your elders or your husband.’ But here it was encouraged. It took me a
while and still does sometimes, until I have the knowledge and the expertise. Then I’m
like, ‘Sorry to interrupt, this is what I’m thinking.’”

Even now, “we still talk strategy at the dinner table,” she laughs. “My kids have learned
so much from just listening to our conversations about everything from future strategies
to human resource issues.” Natasha believes their horizons have been broadened further
by the family’s recent move to London. “We go to museums, watch theatre in the park,
and my five-year-old knows so much about art. When we travel, we make sure to go to the
opera and to plays. I didn’t grow up with enough of that in India.” And then there’s the
matter of the children’s schooling. “Adar went to boarding school aged nine, and always
said, ‘If you want the kids to be focused and disciplined, it’s the best thing.’ I can’t deal with
it. My older son spends half the week at boarding school and Adar laughs at me because
every time I drop him off, I’m sobbing. I’m a helicopter mum.”

DRESSING THE PART

When not working or parenting, Natasha still takes refuge in fashion. Today she’s wearing
an understated wasp-waisted black suit but “there are times when, after a rough day at
work, I come down to the dinner table all dressed up because it makes me happy.” She
says her passion for conceptual looks and oversized Philip Treacy hats, whether at home
or on the racecourse, is something Adar has long been supportive of. “Often people
couldn’t understand what I was wearing. They’d say, ‘What’s that? A dish antenna?’ My
husband has always said, ‘If you love it, do it.’ If you’re comfortable being ridiculously
dressed, how does it matter to anybody else?” She’s also adamant that it shouldn’t make
people take her any less seriously. “For this Vogue India cover, I was like, ‘I’m going
glamorous’ and everyone said, ‘Be careful.’ I feel like I go up against myself in that way
sometimes, because that’s where the socialite thing comes in, but why should I not be true
to who I am? I can wear what I want.”

Would she ever want to do something in the fashion industry? “Promote new designers,
curate, and maybe have a fashion museum or travelling exhibit someday,” she replies. “I’ve
been a collector for many years.” She is also eager to do more in the clean energy sector
and hopes SII will soon be able to manufacture the malaria vaccine that’s been recently
approved by the World Health Organisation. “We’ve collaborated with a lot of companies
and it’s something we’ve been chasing for years, since the day I joined the family.” Now
that the impact of the pandemic has eased again in India, exports of the COVID-19
vaccine have resumed, too. The future, however, remains uncertain. Does she feel the
weight of the world on her shoulders? “We’re used to pressure,” she says stoically. “We
don’t have the time to overthink.” n

132

Blazer, trousers; both
Louis Vuitton

Hair: Andy Lecompte
Makeup: Mary Philips
Assistant stylists: Sachin
Gogna; Taylor Hubbard
Manicure: Tom Bachik

Production: January
Productions & T Creative

STANDING
TALL

Platform mules
that throw it
back to the Y2K
generation are our
call to action for
the party season.

Maxi dress, Proenza
Schouler. Mules,
Bottega Veneta

EXTRA

LOVE

Gilded pieces, from sparkling shoes to dripping gems, as seen on model-
on-the-move Amrit, illustrate how accessories will always dial up a look

Photographed by CRUZ VALDEZ Fashion editor MAX ORTEGA

135

ALL HANDS
ON DECK

The arm stack has
evolved. A chunky
and statement cuff
has a trickle-down
effect on sizeable
cocktail rings.
Dress, Alexandre
Vauthier. Bracelet,
rings; both Louis
Vuitton

136

IN MOVING
MEMORY

Earrings that hug,
dangle, flow and
sparkle.

Jacket, Bottega
Veneta. Skirt, Victoria
Beckham. Crystal-
embellished earrings,
Saint Laurent

STEP THIS
WAY

Webbed and
netted, these
are shoes with
attitude attached.

Top, vest, skirt; all
Louis Vuitton. Boots,
Saint Laurent

TIME TO
PRADA

A ladylike
watch gets a
party update.

Sequined cardigan,
ribbed shirt; both

Prada. Watch, Dior

139

COLOUR
CODED

Bulgari’s new
drop: earrings

good enough
to eat.

Coat, Sportmax.
Knit turtleneck,

Victoria Beckham.
Earrings, Bulgari

140

BABY GOT
BAG

Double the fun
with a crystal

clutch and a
mini-me.

Fringe top, Loewe.
Trousers, Bottega
Veneta. Embellished
bag, Michael Kors

Hair: Jonathan De
Francesco

Makeup: Kuma
Manicure: Megumi

Yamamoto
Set design: Julia Wagner

TWO FOR
THE ROAD

What’s better than
one denim shirt
right now? That’s
easy: two. Layer up,
belt up and frost up

Short-sleeved shirt,

Levi’s. Long-sleeved
shirt, Mother. Jeans,
Emporio Armani. Belt,
ELV Denim. White gold
and diamond earrings
and necklace, Bulgari

GThEeNJeIaEnS

GLAM GIRL

Anyone seeking high
drama need look no
further than Chanel’s

floor-sweeper.

Jacket, skirt, chain belt,
leather shoes, jewellery;

all Chanel

Looking for classic lines or artful embellishment?
Your wish is denim’s command

Photographed by ANGELO PENNETTA Styled by JULIA SARR-JAMOIS

143

STRAIGHT
AND
NARROW

Strictly tailored and
with fine leather
binding: when Hermès
does denim, it’s whip-
sharp.

Apron dress with leather
details and wool rollneck,
Hermès. Leather boots,
Gianvito Rossi. Velvet
and felt hat, John
Boyd. Crystal earrings,
Moschino

ONE FOR THE AGES

Ralph Lauren proves that an oversized denim jacket will always be in vogue.

Jacket, jumpsuit and shirt, Polo Ralph Lauren. Crystal flower choker, Nué

145

A FINE
BALANCE

When the jacket is
capacious, you can
afford to strip down
elsewhere—right
down to a sheer skirt
and bra top, should
you wish.

Trapeze jacket,
Loewe. Bra top, No 21
X 7 For All Mankind.
Crystal embellished skirt,
bag; both Prada. Shorts,
Alaïa. Crystal embellished
shoes, Amina Muaddi.
Crystal earrings, Fallon

146

POWER TRIP

A bodysuit and a
cardi-coat with

bleached denim is
giving us strong
early-90s vibes.

Bodysuit, cardigan,
necklace, jeans; all Saint
Laurent. Shoes, Tom Ford

DRESS TO
IMPRESS

Indigo denim cut in
the ultra-feminine
New Look? It can
only be Dior

Belted shirt dress and
net petticoats; both
Dior. Leather boots, Dries
Van Noten. Lace gloves,
Miscreants. Velvet
headband with veil, Philip
Treacy. Crystal earrings,
crystal necklace; both
Kenneth Jay Lane

148

MIXING
ELEMENTS

A balance of tough
and tender, blue jeans

beautifully collide
with McQueen’s

precious embroidery.

Corseted T-shirt
with trailing

embriodery, Alexander
McQueen. Jeans, Gap.
Rhinestone sandals, René
Caovilla. Velvet gloves,

Miscreants

DOUBLE DUTY

There’s an artistry to denim now, whether that’s in crafty dye techniques or in the pile-it-on approach
when it comes to the extras.

From left, on Mona: Jacket, jeans; both Alberta Ferretti. Nylon gloves, We Love Colors. Crystal cap, Slim Barrett
On Fran: Jacket, Brunello Cucinelli. Shirt, Victoria Beckham. Jeans, R13. Crystal earrings, Alexandre Vauthier. Vintage

bracelet, www.merola.co.uk

150