JUNE - AUGUST 2021
THE UNIQUE
TREE CLIMBING
LIONS OF
ISHASHA
THE ANKOLE
LONGHORN
THE CATTLE OF
KINGS
SCARIFICATION:
BEAUTY.
BRAVERY.
IDENTITY.
NAIROBI • MOMBASA • MOGADISHU • JUBA • DAR ES SALAAM • KILIMANJARO • BUJUMBURA • ZANZIBAR • KINSHASA • JO’BURG
THE PEARL AWAITS
Uganda is open for travel, adventure and business.
With the necessary health protocols agaisnt
COVID-19 in place, you can enjoy peace of
mind during your next visit.
Book your holiday today and experience
the Pearl Of Africa like never before.
CONTENTS 66
JUNE - AUGUST 2021 70
REGULARS
10 CEO’S NOTE
14 BUSINESS TRAVELLER Advancing Intellectual
Property And The 4IR In Uganda
20 DROGBA Great On The Pitch, Greater Off It
64 ANIMAL KINGDOM The Snow Leopard
66 CELEBRITY PROFILE Angelique Kidjo
70 CUISINE Sky Garden: Wining And Dining On
London’s Best Views
72 ROOM WITH A VIEW
76 FASHION Seamline Atelier: Relying On The Past
To Save The Future
80 TRENDS Think Pink
86 NG’AALI KIDS
92 ROUTES
94 BOOKSHELF
80
6 NG'AALI JUNE - AUGUST 2021
DESTINATIONS 26
26 UGANDA
41 KINSHASA
42 DUBAI
46 MOMBASA
52 KENYA
56 JUBA
58 SOUTH AFRICA
60 GUANGZHOU
62 MUMBAI
GUIDES AND TIPS
81 TRAVEL PACKING TIPS
82 SAFARI PACKING LIST
83 TRAVEL HEALTH AND WEATHER CALENDAR
95 DIPLOMATIC MISSIONS
96 TRAVEL GUIDE
98 TRAVEL REQUIREMENTS
60 58
JUNE - AUGUST 2021 On The Cover: Ng'aali, the name of our inflight magazine, is derived from the local
Scarification(Pg 56) Luganda name of the Crested Crane, which is the national bird of the
THE UNIQUE Photo by Joe Buergi African nation of Uganda. It appears on the flag and Coat of Arms and
TREE CLIMBING can be found near the country’s many lakes and rivers.
LIONS OF Crested Cranes stand over 3 feet tall, with a wingspan of up to 6.5 feet.
ISHASHA They live up to 22 years, but hatch in 30 days and reach maturity in 3
THE ANKOLE years. These majestic birds practise monogamy - they remain with the
LONGHORN same breeding partner for life. Literature has it that if one is widowed,
THE CATTLE OF they stay single until they die. They are omnivores, so like humans, they eat
KINGS both meat and plants.
SCARIFICATION:
BEAUTY.
BRAVERY.
IDENTITY.
NAIROBI • MOMBASA • MOGADISHU • JUBA • DAR ES SALAAM • KILIMANJARO • BUJUMBURA • ZANZIBAR • KINSHASA • JO’BURG
8 NG'AALI JUNE - AUGUST 2021
CONTRIBUTORS
KALUNGI KABUYE CHARLOTTE BEAUVOISIN MARK NAMANYA KENNETH MUHANGI
Kabuye is an award winning Conservation volunteer and This acclaimed sports journalist Muhangi is a Lecturer of IP
writer and photographer, and marketing trainer Charlotte has won multiple awards in and ICT Law, Partner at KTA
has been a journalist for more Nagawa Beauvoisin has been his field. A former President of Advocates, award-winning
than 20 years. He has been writing the award-winning Uganda Sports Press Association author and trainer in IP and ICT.
editor of several magazines and travel blog Diary of a Muzungu (USPA), Namanya's command of He also advises the Ministry of
newspapers in Uganda. since 2008. She has written for the sports language is unrivalled. ICT on innovation and ICT policy
the Bradt Uganda Guidebook, development, and is a consultant
Fodor’s and Lonely Planet. with the World Bank.
SOLOMON OLENY SARAH MARSHALL HASSAN SENTONGO MARK EVELEIGH
Oleny is a creative, self driven Inspired by nature and wild Ssentongo is a writer and Eveleigh, a frequent visitor
professional travel journalist. places, Marshall is a freelance editor. He lives in Kampala, and to Uganda, has contributed
He has worked with CNN to travel writer and photographer currently serves as Creative 750+ full-length features to
profile tourism in Uganda, and based in the UK. She regularly Director at Satisfashion UG, an 100+ international publications,
is a recipient of nine Tourism visits Africa as part of her work online platform that celebrates including BBC Wildlife, BBC
Excellence Awards since the for the Tusk Trust Conservation fashion. He is passionate about Earth, Geographical, National
start of his journalism career in Awards. fashion and food. Geographic Traveller and The
2008. Independent.
Publisher Dora Barungi Writers Sales Executives The views expressed
Administrator Doreen Kabatesi Adele Cutler, Kenneth Atukwase Clare Murekyezi, in Ng'aali are not
Muhangi, Mark Eveleigh, Irene Kaitesi, Theresa Among, necessarily those of the
DESIGN Kalungi Kabuye, Sarah Aggie Ninsiima, Peter Kusiima editor, staff or publishers.
Designer Esther Nabaasa Marshall, Solomon Oleny, Ng'aali is the registered
Mark Namanya, Hassan Website and Social Media trademark name of the
EDITORIAL Sentongo, Sasha Martin, Management Uganda Airlines inflight
Editorial Consultant Adele Charlotte Beauvoisin Solomon Oleny magazine.
Cutler
Copy Editor Pamela Nyamato PHOTOGRAPHY PUBLISHED BY: CONTACT US
Web Editor Solomon Oleny Peter Hogel www.ngaaliinflightmag.com
Tel: +256 782 555 213
ADVERTISING AND SALES Address
Sales & Marketing Director Acacia Mall, 4th floor
Richard Senkwale
www.ngaaliinflightmag.com 9
NCEOOT’sE
UR these efforts are being hampered by CORNWELL MULEYA
ESTEEMED the reported new variants of COVID19, CEO: Uganda Airlines
PASSENGERS, which has led to new lockdown
measures in various countries - a new Salaam, Zanzibar, Juba, Kilimanjaro,
Welcome aboard Uganda Airlines! threat to air travel. Kinshasa, Mogadishu, Mombasa, and
The entire aviation industry through Nairobi. We will continue to add
the International Civil Aviation We started 2021 on a high note more cities to our network starting
Organisation (ICAO), together with with the arrival of our second Airbus with Johannesburg, Addis Ababa,
airline associations such as IATA, A330-800neo aircraft, which marked Lusaka, Harare, Goma, Lubumbashi,
AFRAA etc, plus government health the completion of our core fleet of six Khartoum, Kigali, and many others in
authorities and airports, continue to aircraft as per the airline launch plan. the near future.
seek to harmonise procedures to cope The two A330-800neo aircraft are in
with the COVID19 crisis with the the final stages of the Air Operator On May 19, 2021, we upgraded our
objective of finding common ground Certificate certification program with Reservations and Booking Systems
on an acceptable “Travel Pass”. We are our Civil Aviation Authority, and to the Amadeus Altea Suite and also
encouraged that there seems to be some soon shall be ready to ply long-haul achieved global connectivity with
light at the end of the tunnel with the international routes. We are especially Galileo and Travelport, which makes
vaccination efforts being carried out delighted to be the first airline in our network visible worldwide. We
around the world. Our hope is that Africa to fly this type of aircraft with are now embarking on implementing
sooner rather than later, international its enhanced operating efficiencies and our framework of alliances, interlines
travel returns to normal. superior product on board. and codeshare with partners across the
industry in order to serve you better.
At Uganda Airlines, we implemented Passengers can look forward to Our shareholders continue to stand
the new Standard Operating Procedures enjoying yet another first in high with us and to support and invest in
which include standard on-board service offering on the business especially in this difficult
the planned long-haul flights, which COVID19 era.
(i) COVID19 PCR tests before travel adds to our achievements on the
(ii) temperature checks at airports and regional network. Our Pearl of Africa Uganda Airlines is well positioned
boarding gates Service, which brings to our customers for the future and I wish to thank you
(iii) the wearing of face masks an enjoyable, friendly and courteous for making us your airline of choice on
(iii) social distancing within customer experience across all our this journey. We look forward to being
airport premises touch points, will soon be felt on inter- of service to you again soon. Meanwhile,
(iv) extensive sanitisation at airports continental flights to Europe (London), please sit back, relax and enjoy your
and aboard the aircraft. Asia (Guangzhou) and the Middle East flight with us.
These, together with the protective (Dubai, Mumbai).
equipment adorned by our crew, have
enabled us to offer you safe flights to We have also simplified our ticketing
your destinations across the region. The and refund procedures to allow
adoption of these procedures by our flexibility for our passengers to change
industry as a whole has allowed more dates of travel at short notice and to
countries to continue to open their air replan their journeys accordingly. We
travel markets accordingly. However, currently fly to Bujumbura, Dar es
10 NG'AALI JUNE - AUGUST 2021
BUSINESS TRAVELLER
INAAITNPDNERVUDLOALGTPNEAHECCRNETITNDU4YIAGARL Intellectual property (IP) is
to creations of the mind as
There will continue to be a technology is to the Fourth
significant boom in innovation Industrial Revolution
(4IR). IP is the mereological
and technology in the 4IR in sum of inventions, literary
Uganda - from payment systems and artistic works, designs and
through financial technologies symbols, names and images used in
commerce. The 4IR is characterised
like mobile money, Dimo Pay, by the fusion of digital, biological and
Safe Boda Cashless, Jumia Pay physical worlds, as well as the growing
and others, to advancements utilisation of new technologies such as
in medical drone delivery with artificial intelligence, cloud computing,
blockchain, robotics, 3D printing, the
Zipline & Infectious Diseases Internet of Things, and advanced
Institute Makerere; all of which wireless technologies.
In the 21st Century, IP and 4IR are
have IP at their core. not mutually exclusive, they complement
each other - they inter-are. For the
4IR to flourish, IP must remain at the
forefront of policy and must be imbued
in the very nature of innovation. Since
time immemorial, IP has played a
key role in commerce and society in
Uganda. Songs from legends such as Elly
Wamala and Philly Bongoley Lutaaya
have regaled celebratory fireplaces
during the Christmas season and are
played on nearly each radio station. Our
coffee and tea is revered world-over for
its signature taste and texture and our
Ankole longhorn cow is treasured for its
resilience to disease and durable artifacts
molded from its horns.
In the 4IR, IP protection has advanced
significantly in Uganda most recently
with the promulgation of the Security
in Moveable Property Act, 2019 that
allows creatives to use their IP as
collateral for loans. The Act is in pari
passu with the National IP Policy which
speaks to the commercialisation of IP
through establishment of appropriate
infrastructure that supports innovation
and creativity, development of human
capital for the IP value chain and
enhancement of the utilisation of the
IP system.
14 NG'AALI JUNE - AUGUST 2021
BUSINESS TRAVELLER
Uganda has also created the National ICT Initiatives who stayed home and consumed curated
Support program (NIISP) at the Ministry of Information and entertainment all required essential
Communications Technology & National Guidance together services that could be accessed through
with the National 4IR Taskforce Committees, all set up to the internet and social media. COVID-
drive Uganda’s 4IR journey and enhance the value chain in IP. 19 also showed policy makers that IP and
There has been and will continue to technology are vital precipitators for
be a significant boom in innovation research and development and access to
EFFECTIVELY and technology in the 4IR in Uganda medicines.
LEVERAGING IP AND - from the disruption of payment
TECHNOLOGY WILL systems through financial technologies IP will continue to be a key driver
of innovation whilst preserving the
TRANSFORM UGANDA like mobile money, Dimo Pay, Safe nuances and haecceity of ‘Ugandaness’
through the protection of her
TO A MIDDLE-INCOME Boda Cashless, Jumia Pay, Chap Chap, traditional knowledge, using vehicles
Multigate and TBP; the accessibility like Geographical Indications that seek
STATUS BEFORE of music and films through streaming to protect unique products from our
2030 AND THIS WILL services like Kiasi TV, creation and country like the Ankole cow, bamboo
REQUIRE STRATEGIC design through 3D and AI; and shoots/malewa from Eastern Uganda,
PARTNERSHIPS THAT advancements in medical drone delivery and bark cloth/Lubugo from Buganda,
to mention a few. Such recognition and
FOSTER CONVERSATIONS with Zipline & Infectious Diseases protection bolsters foreign exchange
GEARED AT ENHANCING Institute Makerere; all of which have IP whilst curbing knowledge transfers and
at their core. preserving heritage.
A SAFER AND Harnessing 4IR opportunities for
SUSTAINABLE DIGITAL Kenneth Muhangi is a Lecturer of IP and ICT
ECONOMY AS STATED IN economic growth, competitiveness Law, Managing Partner at KTA Advocates
UGANDA VISION, 2040. and human development requires a (Technology, Media, Telecommunications &
concerted effort, not only amongst Intellectual Property), represents Uganda at
government departments, but also the 4IR Portfolio Communities of the Centre
the private sector and civil society. for Fourth Industrial Revolution of the World
Uganda’s development aspirations require that its national Economic Forum, is an External Advisor to the
science, technology and innovation plans make an effective Ministry of ICT on innovation and ICT policy
contribution to its social and economic development and for development, and is a consultant with the
many years, Uganda has been experiencing robust real GDP World Bank.
growth with an average growth of 6.5 % .
Effectively leveraging IP and technology will transform
Uganda to a middle-income status before 2030 and this will
require strategic partnerships that foster conversations geared
at enhancing a safer and sustainable digital economy as stated
in Uganda Vision, 2040. Platforms like the KTA Annual
Symposiums on Innovation and IP, https://www.symposium-iptech.
com (a convergence of thought leaders from different industry
spheres, public and private, discussing policy and the value of
IP) have facilitated dialogue on how best the rights arising from
IP can be utilised in this 4IR.
In 2014, Uganda was classified as an “innovation achiever”
for the second time by Global Innovation Index . Uganda
was ranked 106th in 2011, 117th in 2012, 89th in 2013 and 91st
in 2014, consistently outperforming a number of low-income
countries. Innovation increases the value of IP assets and
makes conversations on artificial intelligence, data protection
and privacy, machine liability and valuation of IP assets more
relevant than ever.
Whereas the world was forced to a halt as a result of the
Covid19 pandemic, the new normal propelled and created
a demand for services that were made possible by the 4IR.
During the government-imposed lockdown in Uganda,
E-commerce became the preferred mode of trade as Ugandans
www.ngaaliinflightmag.com 15
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18 NG'AALI JUNE - AUGUST 2021
DROGBA SPORTS
WOANSTGHREEPAITTOGCRHF,FEAITT. ER
Is greatness about statistics? Is it about trophies? Is it about career
achievements and accomplishments? Is it about personal glory? Is it
about team glory? We can go on and on, but what no football fan
will dispute is the absolute greatness of Ivory Coast legend Didier
Yves Drogba Tebily. Words by Mark Namanya
There are few more polarising debates in Les Elephants’ changing room, where he made an impassioned
the beautiful game of football than the plea to the camera.
definition of greatness, and who truly
deserves to be classified as such. In the eyes “Men and women of Ivory Coast, from the north, south,
of most pundits, Drogba is the greatest centre and west: we proved today that all Ivorians can coexist
African to have graced the English Premier and play together with a shared aim, to qualify for the World
League, and a case can be made for him to be the greatest player Cup. We promised that the celebration would unite the people.
in the history of Chelsea Football Club. Today, we beg you, on our knees… Forgive. Forgive. Forgive. The
The Ivorians know him as the all-time top scorer of their one country in Africa with so many riches must not descend
national team, Les Elephants, with 65 goals in 105 matches. He into war. Please lay down your weapons. Hold elections.
also led them to their first ever FIFA World Cup in 2006; they Everything will be better.”
would also go on to feature in the 2010 and 2014 editions thanks
to his leadership and inspiration. His nation listened, and the elections were held without
But for most people, Drogba was more than a footballer. bloodshed. Drogba later helped move an African Cup of
He was a powerful humanitarian voice who used his glorious Nations qualifier to the rebel stronghold of Bouake. The match
platform to stop a war in his motherland while pushing for sent a message to all Ivorians that the northern rebels were
social changes elsewhere in society. In fact Drogba’s legend part of their country too. Together, troops from both the
is defined as much by his goals on the pitch as his charitable government and rebel sides watched the game inside a packed
efforts off the pitch. stadium, with countless Ivorians watching at home and united
Take for instance, his impassioned speech to rebel forces in despite their tribal, religious or geographic differences. This
2006 that halted gunfire in Ivory Coast. Back then, Ivory Coast move helped confirm the peace process.
had qualified for the World Cup and he was the darling of the
nation as the team’s talisman, goal scorer and skipper. But his Whatever he would go on to achieve in his later career was
country was not at peace. the icing on the cake. In 2007, the UNDP appointed Drogba
After Ivory Coast qualified for the 2006 World Cup by as its Goodwill Ambassador on the back of his successful
defeating Sudan on October 8th, 2005, Drogba seized a efforts in pushing for peaceful politics in the Ivory Coast. A
unifying moment for his country and invited TV cameras into short while later, the father of three was named among Time
Magazine’s 100 most influential people.
Drogba was born in Abidjan, the country’s capital in the
south, in March 1978, and comes from the Bété ethnic group.
www.ngaaliinflightmag.com 21
SPORTS
At the age of five, he was sent to France
by his parents to live with his uncle,
Michel Goba, a professional footballer.
However, Drogba soon became
homesick and returned to Abidjan aged
8. His return was shortlived; his parents
lost their jobs and sent him back to
France, where they followed soon
after and by 1993, they were all living
together in Paris.
It was in Antony, a suburb in Paris,
that he joined Levallois, a semi-
professional outfit, where he impressed
his coach with tremendous work ethic
and a professional attitude – two
qualities that would stand him in good
stead for the rest of his career. Drogba
was later signed by Le Mans and soon
after, Guigamp, before making his
biggest switch at the time, a £3.3m
transfer to Marseille. Cup (Champions League) win, and it’s easy to see why he is
He had a stunning season there with 19 league goals, five held in such high regard throughout the world of football.
Champions League strikes and six in the UEFA Cup as
Marseille reached the final where they lost 2-0 to Valencia. In the Champions League final in 2012, Drogba scored the
Drogba’s shirt from his only season at Marseille is framed equaliser from Juan Mata’s corner in the 88th minute, taking
inside the basilica of Marseille, Notre-Dame de la Garde, which Chelsea into extra time and then penalties. He also scored the
he presented to the church before the 2004 UEFA Cup final. winning penalty in the 4–3 penalty shootout that led Chelsea to
He is a devout Roman Catholic. the victory over Bayern Munich.
It was at Chelsea that Drogba truly established himself as one
of the greatest attackers of his era. He used his physical prowess, Man United manager Sir Alex Ferguson would later remark:
presence and size to outwit defenders on his way to scoring 177 “As far as I was concerned, he [Drogba] won the Champions
goals over two spells at Chelsea. He was excellent with his back League for Chelsea.” In November that year, Drogba was named
to goal, was gifted in the air, possessed a lethal shot and was a Chelsea’s greatest ever player in a poll of 20,000 fans conducted
willing runner who terrorised defences in the Premier League by the club’s magazine.
and Europe.
Top defenders like Carlos Puyol, Gerard Pique and Nemanja Back in 2007 he set up the Didier Drogba Foundation, and
Vidic have named Drogba as the toughest striker they had to decided the first project would be to set up a hospital back
mark in their celebrated home in Abidjan. This facility is now used as a centre for
careers. He is one of only COVID-19 treatment.
HE WAS EXCELLENT 28 players to have scored at
WITH HIS BACK least 100 English Premier Levallois, the amateur club where he began his career, used
their percentage of his transfer fees including £600,000 out
TO GOAL, WAS League goals. He won of the £24 million paid when he joined Chelsea – first to
GIFTED IN THE three Premier League titles ensure the club’s survival, and then to improve their stadium
during his first stint at to incorporate modern sports facilities for the benefit of the
AIR, POSSESSED A Chelsea before returning to local community. They renamed the new stadium Stade Didier
LETHAL SHOT AND win another in the 2014/15 Drogba in his honour.
season, with Jose Mourinho
WAS A WILLING also in his second spell For 20 years, Drogba was married to Lalla Diakité, who is
RUNNER WHO from Mali. They met in 2011 in Paris during a football match
where his uncle was playing. The couple have three children
TERRORISED at the club. together; Isaac, Iman and Kieran. Sadly, the marriage was
Add to this four FA amicably dissolved at the end of 2020, but they remain friends,
DEFENCES IN THE Cups, three League Cups, committed to raising their children with love.
and a major part played
PREMIER LEAGUE in Chelsea’s first, and Their eldest son, Isaac, was born in France in 1999, grew up
AND EUROPE in England and has played in the Chelsea academy system. He
signed for French club Guingamp in February 2018. Drogba
currently only, European has two younger brothers who are also footballers: Joël and
Freddy Drogba.
22 NG'AALI JUNE - AUGUST 2021
THE ROLES OF A
MEMBER OF PARLIAMENT
#1 LEGISLATION
MPs debate and pass laws through
which the institutions of Government
endeavour to guide the country’s
development.
#2 BUDGET APPROVAL
MPs analyse and pass (approve) the
national budget for every financial
year and approve loans.
#3 OVERSIGHT
MPs monitor and bring to the attention
of Ministers and the public the misuse
of Government funds, violations of the
rule of law and unlawful activities.
#4 REPRESENTATION
MPs represent their constituents’ views
in Parliament and bring to the attention
of relevant Ministers different matters of
national concern.
PARLIAMENT OF UGANDA
Parliament House, Plot 16-18 Parliament Avenue/Plot 13-15 Sir Apollo Kaggwa Road. P.O. Box 7178, Kampala-Uganda
Tel: +256-414-377 000 / 150 / 180 / 181 / 186 | www.parliament.go.ug | Twitter:@Parliament_Ug | Facebook/parliamentofuganda
DESTINATION UGANDA
LIsIOhaNsShOaF
Uganda has a variety of unique and rare species
of wildlife, but there is nothing comparable to the
uniqueness of the tree climbing lions. The bizarre
and yet natural way they get up on the branches
and hug them to rest is a sight to behold.
The lion is probably the most feared and
respected of all African wild animals because
it is a super predator capable of hunting 99% of
the savannah wildlife for food. Tree climbing
lions are probably one of the least understood
of the big cats. They are like all the other lions in every respect,
except for tree climbing.
The normal behaviour of a lion - regarding trees, is that they
lay under them for shade and to observe their prey. This is why
it is very strange for lions to climb trees. In the whole world,
there are two ‘populations’ of tree climbing lions - and only
in East Africa, in Uganda and Tanzania. A chance encounter
could happen on a game safari in Kenya or in Kidepo National
Park in Uganda, but a guaranteed encounter is only in Uganda’s
Queen Elizabeth National Park and Lake Manyara National
Park of Tanzania. For this reason, some people refer to these
lions as the tree-climbing lions of East Africa.
There are two assumed reasons why these lions have adapted
to climbing trees: to avoid irritations by insects and bugs on into the wilderness.
the ground, and to escape the savannah heat by basking on Being able to see these lions in Ishasha adds so much to a
the branches where they can get some fresh breeze. These
reasons are further supported by the fact that these lions stay visitor’s experience of Queen Elizabeth National Park. It is
on the ground at night and when it rains - both situations common that while you are here, you will also go for a game
that eliminate insects, bugs and the heat. drive to see all the other animals, take a boat ride on Kazinga
Channel, and track some chimpanzees and other primates.
While the above reasons might be speculative, there is no
denying the fact that basking in the trees helps them to keep There are some great accommodations around Ishasha. Our
watch over their prey. Their tree-climbing skills are regarded top picks are Ishasha Wilderness Camp and Enjojo Lodge.
as a behavioural adaptation that they have mastered so well The former is situated on the banks of Ntungwe River and is
and are able to teach even their young cubs. an idyllic retreat for people who truly enjoy the wilderness
of the African bush; while the latter is located on 40 acres of
In Uganda, visitors who take time to check out the acacia wilderness on the border of Queen Elizabeth Ishasha
Ishasa region have the opportunity to see more than 50 Sector. It has unfenced boundaries, which allows animals to
lions ‘lounging’ all day long in the acacia trees found in this roam freely, so expect to see elephants and antelopes on the
particular region. They are a little hard to spot at the start, grounds.
considering their skin colour and the brown trees in this area.
However, with the help of your tour guide, you can spot them For more interesting stories about Uganda’s wildlife, visit
lying lazily on the tree branches either napping or staring out https://www.ugandasafariexperts.com
www.ngaaliinflightmag.com 27
element
CLIMBING MT ELGON
Sleeping in a tent up a mountain is not for the DESTINATION UGANDA
faint-hearted, especially when it is your first
time. Add a rainstorm, heavy walking boots and Conquering the mighty Mt Elgon must be the
no hot showers and you start to get a picture of craziest holiday I’ve ever taken - it was so out
how demanding climbing Mt Elgon (a volcanic of my element. I am a girl that loves a ‘boujee’
mountain shared by Uganda and Kenya) can be. holiday. My idea of a holiday is a 5-star hotel,
Charlotte Beauvoisin, author of travel blog Diary with a king-size bed and Egyptian cotton
of a Muzungu, was intrigued to know why Jean sheets. A swimming pool and spa don’t hurt either.
Byamugisha, CEO of the Uganda Hotel Owners Mount Elgon is a volcano that has not erupted for a very long
Association, chose to swap her self-confessed time (three million years or so) and is regarded as extinct. It is
‘boujee’ lifestyle for walking boots and a tent. a solitary mountain with gentle and long slopes, intercepted by
Jean shares her personal account, an adventure of steep cliffs and rivers. It offers a satisfying climb that doesn’t
many firsts. require expert skills or equipment.
It was always my dream to challenge myself and this seemed
like the right moment to do it: I had watched - amazed - as my
friend Lilly Ajarova (CEO of Uganda Tourism Board) climbed
the Rwenzori Mountains to reach Margherita Peak. I was
excited to see Ugandans exploring the country and climbing
our mountains and volcanoes. Was this something that I could
do as well?
My biggest fear was not being in shape and holding back the
team. Although I normally do some simple exercises, I had to
up the ante; I took on a personal trainer and worked out six
days a week in preparation for our trip.
We spent the eve of our hike at the Uganda Wildlife
Authority bandas in Kapchorwa on the edge of Mt Elgon
National Park. Our team of climbers included two UWA
rangers, two porters, and a cook. We entered the National Park
via Kapkwata Gate the next morning.
Day 1 - A shock to the system!
While the gym tests your fitness levels, the mountain
hike tests your endurance levels; many times, this is beyond
anything the gym can prepare you for.
By the time we reached Pichwa Camp, an 8-hour walk later,
I had sweated more than I ever thought possible, but after a
hot bath and heavy dinner, I felt like ‘myself’ once again. I even
summoned the strength to visit some local communities.
This was the first time I was sleeping in a tent. It was
surprisingly comfortable, thanks to expert advice I had been
given on the right equipment to bring (I had no idea about
the sleeping bag, mattress and waterproof tent that would be
invaluable in keeping me warm).
After checking that everyone was okay, I set my phone to
airplane mode and braced myself for what was sure to be an
excruciating day two.
Day 2 – Higher and colder
We woke at 6:30am for a hike that was much harder than day
one. The higher we went, the thinner the air was, making each
step of the climb more difficult. It was hot too. The varying
altitudes have created seven unique vegetation zones and the
views from the slopes of Mt. Elgon were simply breath-taking.
We had the whole mountain to ourselves; this made it even
more special.
www.ngaaliinflightmag.com 29
DESTINATION UGANDA At 40km long and 8km wide, the caldera was formed as
Day two really knocked my body off balance. We arrived a result of magma being drained from the chamber. When
at Hunters Cave 12 hours after leaving Pichwa Camp. I was it could no longer support the overlying volcanic cone, it
exhausted but - thanks to the gym - I didn’t have any aches or collapsed into a depression-like shape. In the eastern corner of
muscle pulls. This place was a completely different experience. the caldera, hot springs are found at the start of the deep Suam
We were in the bush: no bathroom, no kitchen and no rooms. Gorge. In the northwest, Simu Gorge was formed by the sheer
Worse yet, the higher altitude made it a lot colder than the weight of the water in the caldera cutting two stream beds out
previous nights; it felt like below zero centigrade. of the weak volcanic ash and agglomerate walls.
For a ‘boujee’ girl like me, this was a complete nightmare. I
had to use the bush for a shower - and worse – for the toilet. The mountain floor is covered with a carpet of ferns, orchids
Shockingly, I came to enjoy this experience, mainly because and flowering plants. It was amazing to see metre-high plants
the team made it fun. Without them, I would never have taken like the Giant Lobelia with their hairy leaves and plumes of
on such a challenge. The music they played in camp cheered tiny blue flowers, ladies’ mantle tussocks and pink and white
everyone and made us forget the tough hours we had spent everlasting flowers. The lobelias looked like something out of a
walking up the mountain. sci-fi movie.
Our dinner of chicken and rice at Hunters Cave was very Day three was tough, made worse
welcome. Taking on such a humongous challenge requires a lot by torrential rains but we had to walk
of energy. Eating heavy meals was a struggle; I only usually eat through it to reach Mudde Camp before
one solid meal a day. I passed out as soon as my head hit the nightfall. Mudde Camp is located at
pillow. My body was beginning to show signs of fatigue and Mudde Cave. Mt. Elgon’s slopes are
dehydration. Day three was going to be longer. riddled with caves left by moving lava
and erosion of soft volcanic deposits.
Day 3 – Altitude sickness Historically, the caves acted as shelters
I felt fit enough to continue the climb, only wishing I had for locals and their livestock, and
a few more hours of sleep. Ordinarily, I am a late riser, so I currently, they are used by climbers and
started our third day feeling like I was running on empty. This their porters, and even today, campsites
was the point at which I started wondering “What in the world are located at Hunters Cave, Siyo Cave
made me crazy enough to take on this challenge?” (near the hot springs), Mudde Cave
My pace fell several minutes behind the team. I suffered and Tutum Cave – ideal for overnight
from altitude sickness and thought I would faint. The team expeditions.
stopped regularly for us to eat pineapples to give us energy. Day
three felt like a bad dream. Beyond the physical effort, it was The last night before our descent was
an incredible experience to take in Elgon’s beautiful volcanic the toughest and coldest of the entire
caldera, the second largest in the world. As one might expect, trip. My body felt beaten to a pulp with
most of the peaks are on the rim of the caldera. fatigue. I dreamt of taking a long hot
shower and sleeping in a warm comfy
bed. For the most part, the trip was fun
and - other than the fatigue of walking 12
hours a day - my body was still strong.
Above: Day 4 - My biggest fear becomes a
The giant reality
lobelia is
listed as a The last day was filled with hope. I was
threatened excited to be returning to civilization;
this experience would count as one of
plant. my greatest achievements. However, I
had no idea what an overwhelming feat
Opposite climbing down the mountain would be.
page: It usually takes eight hours to reach the
bottom (I thought I might do it in six
The Tutum hours). This was not to be.
cave is an
ideal campsite I had learned my lesson and ate a
for overnight sumptuous breakfast of the Ugandan
expeditions. delicacy rolex. It was a beautiful day, and
the sun was shining. After the obligatory
team photo, off I went, literally hopping
30 NG'AALI JUNE - AUGUST 2021
DESTINATION UGANDA
down the mountain. The guides had warned that walking down the mountain could DID YOU KNOW?
be more challenging than climbing it, but I didn’t believe them. Mountain boots
are so different from high heels (my normal shoe of choice). They are heavy and can Geologists estimate Mt. Elgon is over 24
make your feet sore when it rains. The weather on the mountain changes hourly. The million years old, making it East Africa’s
warm sun gave way to a dark cloud that became heavy rain. The descent was almost oldest extinct volcano. This volcano
impossible. I fell hours behind the others, especially when my boots squeezed my toes was once Africa’s highest mountain, far
as I tried to prevent myself falling in the mud. exceeding Kilimanjaro’s current 5,895m.
Millennia of erosion have reduced its
My biggest fear became a reality: I was holding the team back, but I had to descend height to 4,321m, relegating it to the 4th
at my own pace. The worst was yet to come: the pressure of the constant downward highest peak in East Africa and 8th on
incline hurt one of my knees, but my guide, Justin, remained by my side the whole the continent. It has the largest surface
way down. It took almost 12 hours to reach the team at the rendezvous spot. area of any extinct volcano in the world.
Lessons learned from my first hiking adventure The mountain is home to two
Climbing Mt. Elgon was one of the best holidays of my life. I am a lot stronger than tribes, the Gishu and the Sabiny, with
I gave myself credit for. Crazy as it felt, I’m sure I’d do it again… although not for at the marginalised Ndorobos forced
least six months! to dwell deep within the forest of
One of my biggest regrets is not making it to Wagagai Peak (4321 metres). I did not Benet. The Gishu, also known as the
make it that far. I had pushed myself too hard. We were advised to descend because BaMasaba, consider Mt. Elgon to be
it was unsafe for me to complete the 12-hour hike ahead of us. And it was the right the embodiment of their founding father
decision. Masaba and refer to the mountain by
Jean’s advice for first-time climbers this name.
• Get in shape before you go hiking.
• Invest in the right mountain climbing gear. Ask an experienced climber to advise At 4,000km², Mt. Elgon has the
largest volcanic base in the world. Its
you. vast form, 80km in diameter, rises more
• Take the right snacks. You need high energy foods to take you up and down the than 3,000m above the surrounding
plains. Mount Elgon National Park is
mountain. Pack and drink plenty of water. home to over 300 species of birds,
• The entrance of Mount Elgon National Park can be reached quickly by car or bus, including the endangered Lammergeyer.
The higher slopes are protected by
and the Uganda Wildlife Authority (UWA) base in the village of Budadiri can national parks in Uganda and Kenya,
arrange guides, porters, food, etc. creating an extensive trans-boundary
• Mount Elgon can be climbed at any time of year, but during the long rains in conservation area which has been
April and May, the trails become slippery, slow and tedious. The dry seasons declared a UNESCO Man & Biosphere
(June to August and November to March) are best, especially in the months Reserve.
of November to December when the wildflowers are in bloom. Visit www.
safaribookings.com to get the best safari tours for this area. For organising a climb, facilities are
better on the Ugandan side than the
Kenyan, (and Wagagai is in Uganda),
making this a viable alternative to
tackling the mountain from the latter
side.
A climb on Mt. Elgon’s deserted
moorlands unveils a magnificent and
uncluttered wilderness without the
summit-oriented approach common
to many mountains. The ultimate goal
of reaching the top of Mt. Elgon is not
the final ascent to the 4321m Wagagai
Peak, but the descent into the vast
40km² caldera.
www.ngaaliinflightmag.com 31
DESTINATION UGANDA
APKANNNUDTCHKLOEOSTPSINS
Chimp tracking in Kibale Forest
Uganda’s top attractions include our closest Despite their large size, gorillas are (mostly)
relatives, the gorillas and chimpanzees, but how gentle vegetarians. Chimps are boisterous
different are they? Charlotte Beauvoisin takes us and LOUD! If you have the chance, I highly
chimp tracking in Kibale Forest and shares her recommend both great ape experiences to
tips for would-be trackers. compare them yourself.
Much as I love tracking gorillas (every interaction is
different), you can’t beat the excitement that chimps generate:
they are so like us (or are we like them?).
Most of my chimp encounters have been at Sunbird Hill
on the edge of Kibale Forest, where we frequently hear
their ‘PANT HOOT’ cries and the deep sounds of ‘buttress
drumming’ that echo through the forest. It doesn’t matter how
often we hear them, it’s always exciting.
“Welcome to Kibale National Park, a tropical rainforest,
known as the primate capital of the world. Our afternoon of
chimp tracking may take one or three hours.”
Our Uganda Wildlife Authority ranger guide Benson
explains we will be tracking the Kanyantale chimpanzees who
are ‘communities rather than tight-knit families like gorillas’.
I’m super excited when I realise that there will be only two
32 NG'AALI JUNE - AUGUST 2021
DESTINATION UGANDA Above: The knuckle prints stop. “Look,” he says as he points to a
of us (plus Benson) for our afternoon When the forest knuckle spin on the muddy trail. “This is where he has changed
tracking. We’ve lucked out! (During peak gets quiet, we direction.”
seasons, expect to see numerous groups
of trackers in the forest at the same time pause for a We can clearly see where the animal has spun around. We
as you). few minutes retrace our steps.
to absorb
As we enter Kibale Forest, we see the moment “Chimpanzees don’t like wet ground or water.” (Luckily the
evidence of elephants: broken trees lie muzungu has her gum boots on!)
across our path. Benson points to muddy and steal
streaks on tree trunks, where elephants some camera We hear the screams of chimpanzees in the distance. I
have been rubbing their hulks to clean stumble. In our rush to see the chimpanzees, I fall down a hole
themselves - and marking their territory moments. that is hidden by dead leaves.
at the same time.
“They are on the ground ahead!” says our guide.
It’s a humid day. Our noses detect a The deep thud of buttress drumming resonates through the
fruity smell and Benson points out a trees. Ahead of me, my friend Cath turns on her heels, wide-
chimp’s (night) nest above us. At our feet eyed, and yells, “THIS IS AMAZING!”
are half-eaten figs. It’s thrilling to be in I’m breathless. We are climbing now. There is no path; in our
the middle of the forest. I feel my lungs haste, we trip over tree roots and branches. I glimpse black fur
expand to take in every atom of forest and a pink bottom. The chimpanzees are on the ground, pacing
air. It smells so good. steadily forward. We are moving through their territory.
Piercing screams fill the air.
We walk uphill and down. Are the “WE ARE GOING TO MISS THEM!” Shouts our guide.
chimps watching us, high in the trees? With my heart pounding, I pause to catch my breath. We are
Fifteen minutes pass. Benson tries to
contact another ranger, but his radio
is off. We continue wandering through
the forest, but there is no sign of the
chimpanzees.
Are we going to see the chimpanzees?
Perhaps today is not our day. I let the
disappointment wash over me. I know
I’ll have other chances but what of my
friend? For her sake, I hope today is our
day. We can’t see the chimps, nor can we
hear them. Can Benson?
“Hello. Hello Musa?” Benson is on the
phone. He sounds worried. “I don’t know
where he left the chimpanzees. I am
tracking and I have failed.”
I stifle a giggle.
“They are moving toward the
community (outside the National Park).”
We walk off track, pushing through
low-hanging branches and creepers. Our
destination is a towering fig tree on the
park boundary.
“They are starting to move seriously,”
continues Benson. And so are we! We
are almost running now.
“Look at the knuckle print. It’s fresh!”
And there in the soft mud is the perfect
outline of a primate’s knuckle.
“Do you hear them?” Benson quizzes us.
“Let’s move now, quickly!”
Benson cranks up the excitement. “See
- more knuckle prints!” We follow, alert.
34 NG'AALI JUNE - AUGUST 2021
racing to cross the track before the chimpanzees disappear. I see one chimp ahead of DESTINATION UGANDA
us.
CHARLOTTE BEAUVOISIN’S CHIMP
To our left there is loud screaming. What a din! Ahead of us two chimps walk on TRACKING TIPS
the ground.
Kibale is home to approximately
Benson points to the female chimpanzee with a swollen and painful-looking pink 1,450 chimpanzees. In addition to
bum. “She is so attractive to males,” Benson adds. (Well, clearly!) Nine or ten noisy tracking the chimps you can also
male chimps compete raucously for the three females who are in oestrus and ready to participate in chimp habituation, a
mate. longer experience.
We crane our necks to look up through the canopy of the tall Ficus mucuso fig tree. There’s no guarantee that you’ll see
Figs fall around us and the air buzzes with fruit flies. the chimpanzees yet there’s a 90%
likelihood.
“Look! One of the chimpanzees is making a nest,” Benson says and points upwards.
“Come quickly - before they climb.” You must be 12 years or older to
track chimpanzees in Uganda. A
I can’t walk fast enough! Gumboots are no match for the slippery forest floor. maximum of six tourists are allowed
“Tintina is looking for food, he is shy.” At 44, he is one of Kibale’s oldest to track a chimpanzee group at a
chimpanzees. “He’s very ‘musticular’.” (This ‘Uglish’ pronunciation always tickles me). time.
He is calm, not like those other guys. The forest is quiet now and we pause for a few
minutes to absorb the moment. COVID-19 poses a high health risk
Seconds later, the silence is broken. Screams come from every direction, above us to great apes. Humans and chimps
and around us. share 98.7% of the same DNA so you
We crunch forest debris underfoot as we pick up the pace and stride onwards. must keep ten metres away from the
“But it’s time to go back now,” Benson tells us. “It’s going to get dark, and this is the chimps at all times.
time for elephants.”
Kibale Forest clearly has more mysteries for us. International tourists are required
to provide proof of negative COVID
tests. All visitors are temperature
checked and must sanitise.
Everyone must correctly and
consistently wear the recommended
masks which shall cover the nose and
mouth at all times. (Uganda Wildlife
Authority, July 2020). You have to
wear a mask while you are in the
forests.
In 2021, the cost for a chimp permit
in Kibale Forest is $200 (international
rate) and 200,000 UGX (East African
resident rate). However, rates vary
between protected areas and there
are occasional promotions. For the
latest pricing, contact Uganda
Wildlife Authority, National Forestry
Authority (for chimp tracking in Forest
Reserves) or a tour operator.
www.ngaaliinflightmag.com 35
DESTINATION UGANDA
TLHOE ANNGKOHLEORN
THE CATTLE OF KINGS
Cattle are an integral part of A lso called Ankole-Watusi cattle, they are the show-
daily life in Africa, but some stoppers of the bovine kingdom. Majestic and
breeds are rarer and more elegant with long, large-diameter horns, they have a
sought after than others, such dark brown coat, sometimes tinged with beautiful
as the Longhorn cattle of spots, and they attract attention wherever they
Western Uganda. They are the appear. Thanks to their impressive horns (almost six times longer than
most imposing creature among European cattle breeds), they were once considered the incarnation of
domesticated animals in Africa. divine beauty, a yardstick for women and warriors.
The ancestry of these regal animals can be traced back more
than 6,000 years. Longhorned, humpless domestic cattle were well
established in the Nile Valley by 4000 B.C. Known as the Egyptian or
Hamitic Longhorn, they appear in pictographs in Egyptian pyramids.
Over the next twenty centuries (2000 years), the Egyptian Longhorn
migrated with its owners from the Nile to Ethiopia, and then down to
the southern reaches of Africa.
By 2000 B. C., humped cattle (Longhorn Zebu) from Pakistan and
India reached Africa in what is now known as Ethiopia and Somalia,
and were interbred with the Egyptian Longhorn. The mixture
produced the Sanga breed which spread to Sudan, Uganda, Kenya,
and other parts of Eastern Africa, becoming the base stock of many
of the indigenous African breeds. The Sanga demonstrated most of
the typical Zebu characteristics, such as a pendulous dewlap and
sheath, upturned horns, and a neck hump of variable size. Modern
descendants of the Sanga, however, vary greatly in size, conformation
and horns, due to differing selection pressures by different tribes.
Legend also has it that Ankole Longhorns were introduced in
Uganda by the Bachwezi people of the ancient Empire of Kitara, who
greatly revered them and believed them to be divine. Particularly
remarkable are the breeds found in Uganda, Rwanda, and Burundi.
In Uganda, the Nkole tribe’s Sanga variety is known as the Ankole
Longhorn. In Rwanda and Burundi, the Tutsi tribe’s Sanga variety is
called the Watusi. It was formerly owned by Tutsi kings and chiefs,
www.ngaaliinflightmag.com 37
DESTINATION UGANDA LEGEND Milking is done once or twice a day.
and was called the Inyambo. UINBTGLATHAOARLANCNSOTWOGDHDAEHAHURNWOABCEKYRSEOENDTIZLTHSEIINE In the morning after milking, and at
RAKTETNIHPVEDTHGDMEEEAEOIRRAPBRMVEPEIENARALDILT,CNEETIOWTEILOOEVEHYBHNFFE.EEOTDM the watering trough in the afternoon,
Because of their striking appearance, the cattle are inspected. Ailing ones are
and the resulting ability to attract tended to and from time to time, minor
paying customers, Ankole Longhorns surgical procedures are done including
were imported from Africa by European tying fractures and branding. This is all
zoos during the late 19th and early 20th through traditional knowledge systems
centuries. They were first introduced often with the use of traditional tools
to the United States in the 1960s from and herbs. The children watch on,
a small seed stock in European zoos. learning from the old, and will pass this
Exportation of Ankole Longhorns from knowledge on to the next generation.
Africa was banned in the 1930s and
today, less than 700 are registered in the In the evening, the herdsmen round
U.S. off the cattle into kraals where they
spend the night, and because the evening
Physically, Ankole Longhorns are hour is chilly, a fire is always lit at the
elegant and graceful. They have a straight centre of the kraal area to keep them
topline and a sloping rump, and the warm, ward off mosquitoes and other
bulls have a neck hump. Their horns are insects, and keep wild animals away.
long and symmetrical, with a base large
and proportional to horn length. The The calves are separated from the adult
size of their horns can reach more than cows at night and put in a sheltered area
2.5 metres in length. as caution. If left with their ‘mothers’,
they could suckle the milk during the
In Western Uganda, Ankole
Longhorns provided fresh milk but
were rarely seen as a source of meat. The
Bahima people divided their day into
twenty periods and 19 of those had to
do with their cattle related activities.
Ankole Longhorns are an intimate
and endearing part of the Ankole
community so much that they are given
names according to their skin shade.
Every cow has a name and will respond
to it when called. The names relate to
their behaviour, character, skin pattern,
size, shape of horns and their position in
the herd.
Traditionally, slaughtering healthy
cattle was seen as a form of cannibalism.
Only infertile ones and extra bulls were
slaughtered for special occasions. Part of
their hides were made into mats, drum
coverings and clothes. The dung of cows
was used to plaster huts and create art
on their walls.
Still today, these cattle have a sacred
role in the communities that depend
on them. They are a maternal figure, a
currency, and a gift. They strengthen
social relationships, and their elegance is
celebrated in poems and songs. Breeders
and herders articulate the times of the
day through the habits of their cattle:
the morning is “grazing time” and the
evening is “home time”.
38 NG'AALI JUNE - AUGUST 2021
Above: President night and leave none for the milkman. DESTINATION UGANDA
Museveni is known Plus, they are young and could do with by Full Blood Genetics in collaboration
to have the best some extra pampering. with Ntaba Nyoni Estates. These
Longhorns in Africa embryos fetched an additional R580,000
today. Fortune Cookies (UGX 148,422,000) at the Auction.
The story of cows costing a fortune is The significance and uses of Ankole
Below: President old, with the children of Israel giving us Longhorns
Ramaphosa’s bull, the benefit of a golden calf - which easily A cattle keeper’s status is rated by the
Sebastiaan, sold for became a deity. number and beauty of the animals
a record R300,000 they possess. Cattle function as dowry,
at the National In 2017, our very own, an Ankole bull are used to strengthen friendship and
Ankole Auction on owned by South Africa’s President Cyril resolve conflicts.
May 4th 2021. Ramaphosa, went for R64,000 (about
UGX 17,000,000) at a cattle auction. Traditionally in Ankole, these
President Ramaphosa was awed by these animals were revered as an important
cattle when he first saw them in Uganda component in family relations through
in 2004 while visiting President Yoweri the concept of empaano, which was the
Museveni’s ranch. gifting of cows as a social safeguard
against calamities. Through empaano,
“Down beneath were brilliant animals the afflicted family could bounce back
that essentially dumbfounded me,” he by receiving back from those that they
writes in Cattle of the Ages: Stories and gifted cows.
Portraits of the Ankole Cattle of Southern
Africa, his photographic book about Cattle also play a big role during
Ankole Longhorns delivered a year ago. marriage ceremonies as they are used for
payment of dowry. The Ankole people
“They each had long, white, wonderful believe that dowry is considered enough
horns flickering in the African sun, and only if the groom pays the number of
I abruptly got focused and couldn’t quit animals that has been stipulated by the
taking a gander at them. I was interested family of the bride.
and in wonderment and went gaga for
these animals right away.” Their hides are used for making
clothes, mats and bedding, their horns
Due to disease control measures, are used for making beads, trumpets
President Ramaphosa used artificial and violins, and their urine is used for
insemination technology and embryo cleaning containers for churning milk
quarantine processes to buy and export and keeping yogurt. Their tasty milk has
43 Ankole Longhorns bought from a high fat content and the tender meat is
President Museveni to South Africa. low in cholesterol. Ghee made from milk
Today, he is the single greatest Ankole fat is used to make a special sauce called
rancher in the country. Eshabwe, and some Bahima still make
bread and gravy from cows’ blood.
And on May 4th 2021 at the National
Ankole Auction in South Africa, nine Medicinally, a mixture of Ankole
Ankole Longhorns bred at President Longhorn milk and urine is used to
Ramaphosa’s Ntaba Nyoni farm in treat stomach aches, fever and coughs.
Mpumalanga, a mixture of bulls and Dung is used to make casts for broken
cows, fetched a total of R2.7 million bones, to treat measles, and to stop the
(UGX 690,772,200), worth a quarter of lactation of women who have lost a baby.
the auction’s total value. Described as The horns are used to make medicine
the “best bulls on offer”, Mufasa sold for reducing pain and for giving enemas.
for R700,000 (UGX 179,103,000), while Soup from boiled cow hooves is a source
Sebastiaan sold for a record R300,000 of calcium and can be used to reduce
(UGX 76,759,000), highlighting the joint pains.
bright future of the breed in South
Africa and the world at large. The income gotten from selling cattle
and their products enables people to
There were also 12 Ankole embryos fend for their families and take their
– direct descendants of President children to school.
Museveni’s Royal Ankole herd – sold
www.ngaaliinflightmag.com 39
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DESTINATION KINSHASA
Kinshasa is the third largest city on the African continent, with a
population of more than 15 million people. It is a large commercial
centre with a booming business district. This vibrant city sits on the
southern banks of the immense Congo River, directly overlooking the
city of Brazzaville, the capital of the Republic of Congo. The two cities are the only
two capitals in the world that face each other this way.
Kinshasa is a city of contrasts and offers a great introduction to Congolese life.
Large and chaotic, there are numerous experiences to be had, but the bustle and
infectious vibe means just walking the streets and watching the world go by can be an
experience in itself.
To the east of the city, the river divides and meanders through small islands, but just
to the west, one finds rocky rapids, giving the Congo both a peaceful and somewhat
dangerous character. The city’s botanical gardens are a lovely place to have a stroll
surrounded by beautiful, lush nature. You can hire a guide to show you around or hire
a bike. Le Marche des Valeurs is a great place to see African-inspired art and haggle
with the merchants.
Uganda Airlines makes direct flights from Entebbe to Kinshasa thrice a week.
Stay @ - Hotel Memling Eat @ - Fusion Restaurant Visit - Lola Ya Bonobo Sanctuary
A 5* hotel in the central business district Asian fusion cuisine with a relaxed vibe Take a day excursion to the world’s
of the city that offers great service, and excellent service. Delicious, fresh, only Bonobo sanctuary. It is an
decent Wi-Fi and good breakfast. It also and reasonably priced food. Try the educational experience at a special
has a pool and two good restaurants. sizzling fish and meat starter. Happy protected reserve for orphaned
hour starts from 4pm to 7pm. Bonobos, a species only found in DRC.
You can book through www.
congotravelandtours.com
www.ngaaliinflightmag.com 41
SThHe MEaIgKnifHicentZAYED
GRAND MOSQUE
42 NG'AALI JUNE - AUGUST 2021
DESTINATION DUBAI
The Grand Mosque of Dubai is currently the
largest mosque in the UAE and the third largest in
the world. It was built to embody Islam’s foremost
message of peace and tolerance and welcome
people of all beliefs.
No trip to Abu Dhabi is complete without a visit to Sheikh Zayed
Grand Mosque. With its 82 domes, sky-piercing minarets and acres
of gleaming white marble, this religious edifice will take your breath
away.
The project was launched by the late President of the United
Arab Emirates (UAE), Sheikh Zayed bin Sultan Al Nahyan, who was also the founder
of the UAE. He had a very specific vision for this mosque: to incorporate architectural
styles from different Muslim civilisations and celebrate cultural diversity by creating
a haven that is truly welcoming and inspirational in its foundation. The mosque’s
architects were British, Italian and Emirati, with design ideas borrowed from parts
of Turkey, Morocco, Pakistan and Egypt, among other Islamic countries. The entire
mosque cost US$5.5 billion to build.
It took 11 long years to complete the marvel that is Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque
today. Construction began in 1996, but it wasn’t until 2007 that the mosque was
opened for worship. Sadly, it was three years after H.H. the late Sheikh Al Nahyan
www.ngaaliinflightmag.com 43
DESTINATION DUBAI
passed away. His grave rests in the mosque’s courtyard.
The welcoming mosque’s open-door policy encourages visitors from around the
world, from families to groups, solo travellers to celebrants, to not only witness its
beauty but also gain a deeper understanding of the emirate’s cultural beliefs in a
space that encourages open dialogue.
The building complex covers an area of more than 12 hectares (30 acres),
excluding exterior landscaping and vehicle parking. The main axis of the building
is rotated about 11° south of true west, aligning it in the direction of the Kaaba
in Mecca, Saudi Arabia. The Qibla wall, facing Mecca, has 99 names for Allah
inscribed on it.
Its 1,096 amethyst-and-jasper-embedded columns, 82 white marble domes,
reflective pools, gold-plated Swarovski chandeliers, iconic prayer hall, and
courtyard featuring one of the largest marble mosaic artworks in the world, make
it a stunning place to explore and take photographs. The mosque holds a Guinness
World Record for the largest hand-woven carpet. It took about 8 months to design,
12 months to knot, and 2 months to transport, trim, and weave the pieces together.
The chandelier in the main prayer hall weighs about 12 tonnes and is one of the
largest chandeliers used in a mosque. The mosque also features a unique lighting
system designed to reflect the phases of the moon. There are 22 light towers which
project soft clouds of a ‘bluish gray’ colour on the exterior of the mosque. This
light changes according to the moon phase every night. Delicate floral patterns in
mother-of-pearl radiate from the walls. Don’t miss the calligraphy encircling the
hollows of its domes, etched with verses from the Quran and painted with gold
leaf in An-Naskh lettering.
The library, located in the northeast minaret, serves the community with classic
books and publications addressing a range of Islamic subjects: sciences, civilisation,
calligraphy, the arts, and coins, including some rare publications dating back more
than 200 years. The collection comprises material in a broad range of languages,
including Arabic, English, French, Italian, Spanish, German, and Korean. For two
years running, it was voted the world’s second favourite landmark by TripAdvisor.
It is open to visitors from Saturday to Thursday between 09:00 to 22:00 and on
Friday from 16.30 – 22:00. There are however very strict dress codes. Women must
be fully dressed and covered, with long sleeves to the wrist, trousers or a long skirt
to the ankle, and a scarf or wrap to cover the head. As such, Abayas are provided
for women and long trousers for men.
Uganda Airlines is preparing to fly to Dubai soon.
44 NG'AALI JUNE - AUGUST 2021
DESTINATION MOMBASA DON’T FORGET TO
MOMBASA ENJOY…
With its seagrass meadows and coral reefs protected by several parks and marine MAMA NGINA WATERFRONT
reserves, Mombasa is a favourite destination for snorkeling. The breathtaking Diani Tourists can enjoy horse and camel
boasts some of the region’s prized beaches, and south of Diani is where you will find riding, attend cultural exhibitions, shop,
Wasini Island and the Wasini Marine National Park, both homes to fine snorkelling and watch big ships coming and going
experiences. Dive under the water and swim with sea turtles, colourful starfish, out of the Kilindini Harbour at close
clownfish in their anemones, angelfish, and dozens of other reef fish species. range.
Uganda Airlines flies to Mombasa thrice a week.
EAT@ ENGLISH POINT MARINA STAY @ NEPTUNE BEACH RESORT SHIMBA HILLS SAFARI AND HIKE
Three exceptional restaurants share This elegant hotel offers all the comforts Visit a coastal forest that’s home to sable
one idyllic address. From fine dining of home and maintains an open air feel antelopes, numerous bird species, and
to authentic Indian cuisine, their chefs’ due to its large reception and hallways. a remarkable number of elephants on a
creations will take you on a culinary It is very popular and offers very good full-day, small-group safari organised by
journey around the world within the service in a family atmosphere. Cruzeiro Safaris.
hotel.
46 NG'AALI JUNE - AUGUST 2021
COMFORT.
LUXURY.
SOPHISTICATION.
Neptune Hotels is a leading hotel group in East Africa. We operate 7 hotels: 4 beach resorts and one
safari camp in Kenya, one resort in Zanzibar and a lodge in Tanzania. We take the utmost care to
deliver the highest standard of service for total customer satisfaction.
Our teams are trained to the highest standard to ensure you have a stress free and memorable
holiday. Our aim is to exceed your holiday expectations by offering you the best resorts and safari
camps at the best locations. Book a minimum of 45 days prior to arrival and spend less. This offer
is valid at all Neptune Hotels. All Neptune Hotels are Covid compliant.
+254 716 016 000 | [email protected] | www.neptunehotels.com
Set on 50 acres of virgin Tanzanian bush
in the Ngorongoro volcanic landscape, this
all-suites log cabin style retreat is located
a few steps from the Game Reserve Gate
and is 20 minutes’ drive away from the
Ngorongoro Crater, said to have the most
dense concentration of wildlife in Africa. The
property features 20 spacious private cabins
with a fireplace, a restaurant, a bar and
conference facilities. Relax at the swimming
pool or at the Earth & Rain Spa after a full-day
game drive.
It is nestled in the heart of the exclusive Masai
Mara North Conservancy. Immersed in the
original bush among indigenous plantations
and trees, the 20 luxury tents directly overlook
the Mara River, which winds itself around the
camp with gently flowing waters surrounded
with wildlife and teeming with large groups of
Hippos. Enjoy an al fresco lunch or evening
BBQs around the pool, as you watch the
Masai dancing and talking about their culture.
+254 716 016 000 | [email protected] | www.neptunehotels.com
This is the ideal choice if you are looking for
that “special touch”, and the finest of details.
The luxurious resort was meticulously
created to emulate traditional Zanzibari style
using the best in local design, interiors and
furnishing to meet top international standards.
The 190 deluxe and 4 master suites all offer
Indian Ocean views. It is located North East
on Zanzibar’s best beach on the Kiwengwa
shoreline, 45km from The International Airport
and Stone Town.
Set in a beautiful tropical garden and totally
renovated in 2016, the 92 rooms are in makuti
roofed cottages with only 4 rooms per unit.
Restaurants and bars form a perfect match
between hotel and nature and offer a real
African atmosphere. The resort is located at
the South Coast at the famous Diani Beach.
Mombasa town is 40km, Moi International
Airport 45km, with the Ukunda Airstrip only
8km away.
+254 716 016 000 | [email protected] | www.neptunehotels.com