NG'AALI JUNE-AUGUST ISSUE 2021

Located at Bamburi Beach, the special
highlight is the lush garden area and the
new terrace with a view of the Ocean. There
are many quiet areas throughout the resort
including the newly created “coffee shop” to
offer you calm and relaxation.

Seated at Diani beach, this 165-room gem is
a perfect match between resort and nature

thanks to makuti roofs all through. It is one of
the widest beachfront hotels in Mombasa.

A 4-star-plus boutique hotel set in beautiful
tropical gardens on a prime beachfront
location at Diani Beach, South Coast. The 60
rooms are in makuti roofed cottages with only
4 rooms per unit.

+254 716 016 000 | [email protected] | www.neptunehotels.com

DESTINATION KENYA

52 NG'AALI JUNE - AUGUST 2021

DESTINATION KENYA

The annual migration of almost
2.5 million wildebeests, zebras,

gazelles and antelopes is
probably the most impressive
natural spectacle in the world.
Mark Eveleigh and his daughter
Lucía visit Kenya’s Maasai Mara
to catch the world’s greatest

show at its most dramatic.

www.ngaaliinflightmag.com 53

DESTINATION KENYA UIMSHT’DMUNHBEERTWRTERDAOHIMTEREISTOPELL,EAUWLTYHDRUVHKOCIIOOTEVCBERUHEWWRETOIHATLERNEDDSIFEVTBCISETRUSEELAO.DNRLEL.-.
he actors have taken centre stage for what is
often described as the greatest wildlife show mortally injured wildebeests. There can be few clearer examples
on earth. But the great migration is much more of that second famous principle of survival, Darwin’s law of
‘survival of the fittest’, than in the great migration. I suddenly
Tthan just a show: it’s a brutal life-and-death realise just how incredibly resilient these animals are. I can’t
drama, with a cast of millions. And it’s set imagine a single horse surviving a leap like these thousands of
against one of the most spectacular landscapes on our planet. wildebeests just made.
The air is thick with tension in our Land Rover on the
southern bank of the Mara River but among the rising dust, A lot has been written about the great migration, but nobody
jostling horns and stumbling hooves on the opposite side of has ever really been able to do it justice in words. Even today, it
the steep canyon, the pressure must surely be rising to panic is hard to find accurate estimates of the scale of the migration.
point. There are about 30,000 wildebeests crowded along the ‘The annual migration of two million wildebeests,’ says
riverbank and back in the acacia scrub. I’m doubtful that the UNESCO, ‘is one of the most impressive nature spectacles in
herd will cross here, however. Surely the ten-metre vertical the world,’ (yet on the same page UNESCO estimates the total
drop down to the river is unmakeable. It would be suicide. number of wildebeests at just one million).
I keep my camera lens pointed at the opposite bank
nevertheless, as I look back over my shoulder. The sky is The great migration is often described as nature at its most
dark on the horizon and it looks like rain might already be perfectly synchronised and flawlessly orchestrated. Anyone
spattering the savannah along the southern boundary of the who’s witnessed it over an extended period, however, will tell
Maasai Mara National Reserve. you that it’s actually incredibly chaotic with small offshoot
I turn back just in time to see a puff of dust halfway down herds appearing to mill in contradictory directions. They
the sandy cliff opposite us. A single wildebeest bull has slipped. gallop decisively towards the east, only to meet up with equally
Shoved by the pressure from those behind, he plummets ten determined groups coming from the west. They seem to mill
metres to the foot of the precipice and stumbles, apparently about for a while, like boy scouts on an orienteering exercise,
miraculously unhurt, onto his legs. Then, with nowhere else before they race off in another apparently random direction.
to go, he throws himself into the swirling current of the
Mara River. “The really unbelievable thing is that this huge herd is going
Through my telephoto lens, I can discern V-shaped ripples on the wrong way,” I point out to Lucía, after reassuring her that
the surface where huge Mara crocodiles are zeroing in on the almost every one of the wildebeests made it safely across. (It
solitary swimmer like torpedoes. But he’s not solitary for long. seemed that most of the crocodiles were so stuffed with meat
The great migration is founded on two inviolable principles of that they didn’t even bother to hunt).
natural survival. The first is ‘safety in numbers’. The stumbling
fall of that single bull, almost inevitable under the increasing
pressure from the herd behind, is a signal. Almost before that
first wildebeest enters the water, three others have leapt to
what I imagine must be their deaths. By the time they too are
swimming, the crocs have been side-tracked by the general
confusion as all along the bank a hundred wildebeests are
sliding, dropping, flailing and kicking over the edge of the cliff
and into the water below.
Within a few seconds the entire bank opposite us is a cascade
of sliding dust and tumbling bodies. By the time that first
swimmer scrambles, unhurt, onto the bank below our car, the
surface of the river is being churned to froth by the horns and
hooves of a hundred wildebeests. The sheer brutal desperation
of the scene is overwhelming and my heart is in my mouth. This
is primarily because my ten-year-old daughter Lucía, sitting
next to me, is gasping in horror. Surely the body count is going
to be nothing short of heartbreaking and suddenly I wish that
she wasn’t here to see this.
Within a few minutes, the first thousand front-runners of the
herd have scrambled up the bank and galloped onto the plains
behind our vehicle. Then I realise that, so far at least, there are
very few injuries. The entire crossing takes about forty minutes
and by the time it’s all over, I have counted just six dead or

54 NG'AALI JUNE - AUGUST 2021

PHOTO BY MARK EVELEIGH Gamewatchers Safaris (www.
gamewatchers.com) offers a 5-day fully-
“What do you mean?” she asks. inclusive safari package – from US$2,335
“This is the northbound migration, yet all these animals have been per person – staying at two wonderfully-
lured temporarily southwards by that rainshower,” I jerk a thumb over
my shoulder. “They’ll almost certainly all have to come back again!” located camps in exclusive wildlife
Ultimately these same wildebeests would have to recross the Mara conservancies in the Maasai Mara
River again – presumably at an easier crossing point – before they finally ecosystem and game-driving with expert
regroup to head south again, towards the Southern Serengeti calving Maasai driver-guides and spotters.
grounds 500km away.
I had witnessed the migration before in Tanzania but had never seen Erikson Rover Safaris (www.
a crossing quite as dramatic as that morning’s on the Kenyan section of roversafari.com)
the Mara River. I had seen the great herds heading northwards with their
numbers augmented by almost a quarter of a million babies. When I saw 4x4 rentals – with evocative classic
them crossing southwards six months later over the Tanzanian section vehicles – in Kenya, Uganda and
of the Mara, I was shocked to realise that on this southbound journey,
very few young were left alive. Only the very strongest survive and some Tanzania from US$110/day, with unlimited
experts estimate that as many as one in four wildebeests die, victims mileage. They can even supply drivers
of injuries or predators (often both). By the time they head south again, and chefs.
even the yearlings are veterans of the great trek. Only a population from
which the weakest 25% is effectively culled every year, over the course of
thousands of years, could evolve into such deceptively tough animals.
Wildebeests are sometimes called the ‘clowns of the savannah’, for
the way they kick their heels up and jump and frolic at even the hint of
oncoming rain. Take time to witness the migration firsthand and you’ll
come to appreciate that for a wildebeest, there is something very definite
to celebrate in merely being alive.

Uganda Airlines flies to Nairobi daily.

www.ngaaliinflightmag.com 55

DESTINATION JUBA

iSfcicaart-ion
Beauty. Bravery. Identity
f
acial scarification in South
Sudan is practiced amongst
different tribes, each with
their own signs and patterns.
The facial markings give
identity to the tribesmen
and beauty to the women.
The boys and girls are taught
not to cry when the knife touches their
beautiful dark skin because it is seen as a
sign of weakness that causes ridicule in the
community.
Males and females have lines and dots cut
across the forehead, arms and torso during
adolescence to mark the transition to
manhood and womanhood. In some tribes,
those that choose not to have these scars can
face harassment as they are considered to
have disrespected tradition.

Uganda Airlines flies to Juba thrice a week.

56 NG'AALI JUNE - AUGUST 2021

PHOTO BY JOE BUERGI

STOOORWWTLAEHRENESDTOOOF

DESTINATION SOUTH AFRICA

Originally the site of a coal-fired
power station, the Orlando
Towers have become one of the
most distinctive landmarks in the
neighbourhood of Soweto, a township of the city
of Johannesburg in Gauteng, South Africa.
Construction of the Orlando Power Station
began in 1935 and was only completed in 1955, due
to delays caused by the Second World War. After
56 years of service, the power station was shut
down in 1998.
The Orlando Towers Extreme Sports Site was
opened in 2008 by local company Skyriders
to develop the neglected cooling towers into a
vertical adventure facility and one of the most
distinctive tourist attractions in South Africa.
The site is currently owned and managed by Nico
Myburg who has 20 years of bungee and extreme
sports experience. His motivation is introducing
people to the world of adrenaline.
Both towers are painted, one functioning as an
advertising billboard and the other containing
the largest mural painting in South Africa. The
towers are used for extreme sports such as
bungee jumping, abseiling, zip-lining, pendulum
swinging, SCAD falling and occasionally, rap
jumping. Visitors can also go paintballing and
rock climbing and take a quad bike. Soweto Tours
is also based at the towers.
Activities at the towers are dependent on
weather, particularly wind. Under 18s require
the consent of their parents or guardians to
take part in this adventure. Only those with a
weight between 35kg and 110kg may bungee jump.
Booking is essential for parties of six or more.
The Orlando Towers adventure facility is run
by highly-trained, experienced, professional staff
who adhere to international safety standards. All
activities have been tested by Level 3 certified
rope access technicians, and an external safety
auditor ensures that standards are maintained
consistently.

Address:
Cnr Sheffield Road and Chris Hani
Orlando East, Soweto
Johannesburg, South Africa

Uganda Airlines flies to Jo’burg four times a week.

www.ngaaliinflightmag.com 59

DESTINATION GUANGZHOU

60 NG'AALI JUNE - AUGUST 2021

DESTINATION GUANGZHOU

MTOHCUE NZHHTIAANINNAGSYOEFAnoverturnedpalettefromheaven:

The rainbow mountains in Zhangye look like someone
went on a painting spree. Formed through years of
sedimentation, erosion, and a mix of extreme weather
conditions, the result is a dramatic rock landscape
separated by stripey colours, giving it a rainbow-coloured beauty.
Densely packed layers of minerals and rock are dramatically striated
into a layered cake of magenta, maroon, and lemon-coloured stone,
resulting in a masterpiece of nature and a geological wonder of the
world.

The mountains are located in the Zhangye Danxia National Park, in
the Gansu Province of China’s northwest. Covering 200 square miles,
the area was named a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2009 and is a
famed destination for many Chinese and international tourists. It is
also one of the ‘Top 10 Geographical Wonders of the World’ selected
by National Geographic.

The Rainbow Mountains are cretaceous sandstones and siltstones
that were deposited in China before the Himalayan Mountains were
formed. The sand and silt was deposited with iron and trace minerals
that provided it with the key ingredient to form the colours we see
today.
HOW TO GET THERE
Take a flight to Lanzhou, which is the capital of Gansu Province.
Once here, you can connect to Zhangye by air or train. The Danxia
National Park is located close to the city of Zhangye - about 30
minutes west by car. Alternatively, you can go to the city bus station
first and travel to the park by bus.

You need to use the sightseeing buses within the national park
because no private cars or tourist buses are allowed.

The distance between the four viewing platforms is about 8
kilometre (5 miles), and it takes 2-3 hours to finish the whole trip
when taking the sightseeing buses. The best time to visit is late
afternoon/evening as the sun is setting. Blues, reds and golds await
you.

Uganda Airlines is preparing to fly to Guangzhou soon.

www.ngaaliinflightmag.com 61

MATTHAHEJAL

A Teardrop On The Cheek Of Time

DESTINATION MUMBAI

The most visited site in India, The Taj Mahal is arguably the most
famous building in the world. A spectacle in white marble, it is
unparalleled in grandeur and depicts the sheer opulence of an era.
It is a romance celebrated in marble and glorified with precious
stones, and that’s the way to appreciate it!

W ho could ever have thought that an eternal love leading to
infinite bondage could gift the world with a poem-in-marble!
No image of The Taj, neither on canvas nor on celluloid,
can adequately express its conceptual imagery nor convey
the legend, the poetry and the romance that shrouds what
Rabindranath Tagore calls “a teardrop on the cheek of time”.
Taj Mahal, which means “Crown Palace”, is the most well preserved and
architecturally beautiful tomb in the world. The English poet, Sir Edwin Arnold, has
described The Taj as “Not a piece of architecture, as other buildings are, but the proud
passions of an emperor’s love wrought in living stones”.
Often described as one of the wonders of the world, the stunning 17th Century Taj
Mahal is an immense mausoleum of white marble, built in Agra between 1631 and
1648 by order of the Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan in memory of his third but favourite
wife, his soul-mate, Mumtaz Mahal, a Muslim Persian princess. She was a beautiful
and devoted wife who was content to have lots of children with her husband - she
died giving birth to their 14th child. The death so crushed the emperor, that all his
hair and beard were said to have grown snow white in a few months.
Tourists from all over the world visit Agra to make a pilgrimage here, in a land
where magnificent temples and edifices abound to remind visitors about the rich
civilisation of a country that has slowly but surely lifted itself into an industrialised
society.
The Taj rises on a high red sandstone base topped by a huge white marble terrace
on which rests the famous dome flanked by four tapering minarets. Within the dome
lies the jewel-inlaid cenotaph of the queen. So exquisite is the workmanship that the
Taj has been described as “having been designed by giants and finished by jewellers”.
The only asymmetrical object in the Taj is the casket of the emperor which was built
beside the queen’s as an afterthought.
When Mumtaz Mahal was still alive, she asked for four promises from the emperor:
first, that he build the Taj; second, that he should marry again; third, that he be
kind to their children; and fourth, that he visit her tomb on her death anniversary.
However, due to ill health and his being under house arrest by his own son and
successor to the throne, Aurangzeb, Shah Jahan didn’t keep the last promise.
One of the allures of the Taj Mahal is its constantly changing hue. From dawn to
dusk, the sun transforms the mausoleum. It sparkles like a jewel in moonlight when
the semi-precious stones inlaid into the white marble on the main mausoleum catch
and reflect back its glow with a better gleam. The Taj is pinkish in the morning, milky
white in the evening and golden when the moon shines. In the evenings, the Taj can
appear translucent blue. Special tickets are sold for full moon and eclipse viewings.
The Taj, standing tall with grace, is not just a parable epitome of emotional and
eternal love between a man and a woman. It is not merely a monument of grace
and dignity alone. It is, in fact, a message to all mankind that “pure love is the soul
of life”.

Uganda Airlines is preparing to fly to Mumbai soon.

www.ngaaliinflightmag.com 63

HABITUM, FICAE

LEOPARDTHE SNOWeVxutlninercabtlieoton:
There are less than 9000 snow leopards in the world, and their
numbers are declining due to habitat loss, poaching and the impact
of climate change.

64 NG'AALI JUNE - AUGUST 2021

ANIMAL KINGDOM

Known throughout the world for its marking and calling. Females have a gestation period of
beautiful fur and elusive behaviour, the 90–100 days, and the cubs are usually born between April
endangered snow leopard is found in the and June. A litter usually consists of two to three cubs,
rugged mountains of Central Asia. It is and in exceptional cases, up to seven. The female gives
listed as vulnerable on the IUCN Red List birth in a rocky den or crevice lined with fur shed from
because the global population is estimated to number less her underside. The cubs are blind and helpless at birth,
than 9000 and is expected to decline by about 10% by 2040. although already with a thick coat of fur, and weigh from
Snow leopards have evolved to live in some of the 320 to 567g. Their eyes open at around seven days, and
harshest conditions on earth. They inhabit alpine and the cubs can walk at five weeks and are fully weaned by
subalpine zones at elevations from 3,000 to 4,500m (9,800 10 weeks.
to 14,800 ft), ranging from Eastern Afghanistan, the
Himalayas and the Tibetan Plateau, to Southern Siberia, Cubs leave the den at around two to four months
Mongolia, and Western China. In the countries in the of age, but remain with their mother until they
northern part of its range, it also lives at lower elevations. become independent after around 18–22 months. Once
A 2016 study revealed that snow leopards, lions and independent, they disperse over considerable distances,
leopards are more similar to each other than their nuclear even crossing wide expanses of flat terrain to seek
genomes, indicating that the ancestors of snow leopards out new hunting grounds. This likely helps reduce the
hybridised with those of lions and leopards at some point inbreeding that would otherwise be common in their
in their evolution. Despite being called the snow ‘leopard’, relatively isolated environments. The generation length of
this big cat is more closely related to the tiger than the snow leopard is eight years.
the leopard.
The snow leopard has several adaptations for living in The snow leopard has not been reported to attack
a cold, mountainous environment. Its small rounded ears humans, and appears to be the least aggressive to
help to minimise heat loss. Its coat is spotted with large humans of all big cats. As a result, they are easily driven
black rosettes to blend in perfectly with the steep and away from livestock, and readily abandon their kills
rocky mountains, and the wide, fur-covered paws act as when threatened, and may not even defend themselves
natural snowshoes. Snow leopards have thick long fur on when attacked.
their undersides to increase the grip on steep and unstable
surfaces; it also helps to minimise heat loss. Their thick, Several factors have contributed to their decline. Their
long and flexible tail helps to maintain balance in the rocky wild prey has decreased as herding and ranching activities
terrain, and allows the cat to use it like a blanket to protect have expanded throughout their geographic range. They
its face when asleep. are often killed by herders and ranchers whose livestock
Snow leopards prefer rocky, broken terrain, and can they have taken, and their body parts are sought after
travel without difficulty in snow up to 85cm (33 inches) by hunters and poachers for illegal animal trade and use
deep, although they prefer to use existing trails made in Chinese medicine. As a result, there has been a huge
by other animals. However, unlike other big cats, snow reduction in their numbers globally - at least 20 percent
leopards can’t roar. They have a ‘main’ call described as a of their population has been lost in two decades.
‘piercing yowl’ that’s so loud it can be heard over the roar
of a river. There have been significant investments in the
The snow leopard is capable of killing most animals in conservation of these leopards. These include the
its range, with the probable exception of the adult male establishment of new protected areas within the snow
yak. They also eat smaller fare, such as marmots, hares, leopard range; anti-poaching measures; training and
and game birds, plus a significant amount of vegetation, capacity-building; initiatives to reduce conflict with
including grass and twigs. They have been recorded to hunt herders (e.g. strengthening livestock corrals, vaccination,
in pairs successfully, especially mating pairs. handicrafts and alternative livelihoods, grazing set-
Snow leopards become sexually mature at two to three asides); community engagement programmes; and
years, and normally live for 15–18 years in the wild. In education programmes to raise awareness of the
captivity, they can live for up to 25 years. They usually snow leopard.
mate in late winter, marked by a noticeable increase in
Numerous agencies are working to make this effort
successful. These include the Snow Leopard Trust, the
Snow Leopard Conservancy, the Snow Leopard Network,
the Cat Specialist Group, TRAFFIC, and the Panthera
Corporation.

www.ngaaliinflightmag.com 65

CELEBRITY PROFILE

and joie de vivre

In today’s contemporary music mother was a choreographer. For several years, Kidjo was the front
world, there are very few At age six, Kidjo began performing singer of Jasper van ‘t Hof’s Euro-African
singers like Kidjo. Over the jazz/rock band Pili Pili. Toward the
course of several albums, the in her mother’s theatre troupe. Years end of the 1980s, she had become one
vocalist from Benin has single- later in her teens, her brothers started a of the most popular live performers in
mindedly created a bridge that band and she joined them. Inspired by Paris and in 1989, she struck out on her
unites the rhythms and spirits a wide variety of music from African own, forming a band and releasing the
of Africa with the grooves and artistes like Fela Kuti and Miriam album Parakou. That debut attracted the
vibes of the New World’s African Makeba to the rock, pop and soul of Jimi attention of the biggest name in world
Diaspora, masterfully taking Hendrix, Carlos Santana, James Brown, music at the time, Chris Blackwell of
it to places where few world and Aretha Franklin, she was singing Britain’s Island Records. He signed Kidjo
music artistes have gone before. professionally by her 20th birthday and to the label’s Mango subdivision, and
recorded her first album, Pretty, with the her second album, Logozo, was released
Three-time Grammy Cameroonian producer Ekambi Brillant in 1991. Logozo gained Kidjo a faithful
Award winner Angélique and her brother Oscar. It featured the core of fans who could be counted on
Kidjo is a creative force songs “Ninive”, “Gbe Agossi’’ and a tribute to attend her highly participatory live
with thirteen albums to to the singer Bella Bellow, one of her role shows.
her name. Time Magazine models.
has called her “Africa’s premier diva”. The Her unusual image contributed to
BBC has included her on its list of the The success of the album allowed her success; in place of the expansive
continent’s 50 most iconic figures, and her to tour all over West Africa, but in look of other African female vocalists,
in 2011, The Guardian listed her as one of 1980, a new leftist regime took power in Kidjo sported a lean dancer’s body clad
their Top 100 Most Inspiring Women in Benin and tried to force her to record in denim pants, and kept her hair very
the World. political anthems. She fled to Paris in short. From 1994 onward, she was rarely
Angélique Kpasseloko Hinto 1983 with the intent of studying law off the road, and was saddened that
Hounsinou Kandjo Manta Zogbin Kidjo and becoming a human rights lawyer, she rarely had time to visit her parents
was born into one of the most hopeful but realised she was not cut out for in Benin. The year 1994 saw her create
moments of the 20th Century. Just political life. “I decided I would try a bona fide international hit; her Aye
two weeks after her birth in 1960 — in to touch poor people with my music,” album received strong reviews and
Ouidah, Dahomey — her country Benin she told The Globe. Her partner in generated “Agolo”, a dance-floor favourite
finally gained independence from France. this enterprise was French bassist and throughout Africa and Europe. She
She was born into a family of performing composer Jean Hebrail, who she met at followed that album with Fifa, which
artistes. Her father was a government the CIM, a reputable jazz school in Paris, grew from a set of tape recordings Kidjo
official and part time musician, and her for which she worked various day jobs and her husband made of traditional
to pay tuition. Kidjo married Hebrail, instrumentalists during a tour of small
with whom she has written much of towns in Benin. The resulting disc mixed
her music.

66 NG'AALI JUNE - AUGUST 2021



CELEBRITY PROFILE

such sounds as cow horns, traditional flutes, and bamboo
percussion with modern African pop, American gospel, and
rap. The album, an ambitious effort that used roughly 200
musicians, featured a guest guitar solo from one of Kidjo’s
many admirers in the U.S. music industry, Carlos Santana.

Fifa included several songs in English, but Kidjo scoffed
at the idea that she was singing in English for commercial

reasons. “I do what pleases me,” she told the Toronto
Star. “I do the music I like. I don’t know if
it’s going to be English or French or some
African dialect. Music is music; it’s all about
communication.” She believed that
the sentiments in a piece of music
could be understood even if the
hearer were unfamiliar with
the language of the text,
and later in her career
she encouraged the
efforts of pop
stars Sting and

AWIBIEFATOSFTGLNIUOOOUEIKDVDB“RELTIGTEAEIDHAORPTEHYSINTANWVSGCESM’V”CTLIOETEKYEEEB,E,.IEP

CELEBRITY PROFILE

VBEHETOUSXEHNTRINEPECDELPRFELOMILAEN,WTRASOGEH,SPRGTEIMPOORIEUOAFANNSKNBNIRIC,GLDTAIEEAJHEOO-LNE’SFS Celine Dion to sing in Spanish rather women largely sung in Beninese
than English. One modern form of languages, won a Grammy Award
communication Kidjo adopted was the for best world music album, as did
Internet; she established a website in Sings (2015), a collaboration with the
1996, well in advance of many Western Philharmonic Orchestra of Luxembourg.
pop stars. Backing up her claim that In 2019, Kidjo delivered another covers
she was not affected by commercial set, this time in honour of one of
considerations was her cancellation her musical heroes, Celia Cruz, the
of an African tour that year when she legendary queen of salsa. The album
discovered that it was to be sponsored went on to earn her another Grammy
ATWCHHTEOIINVBAIFSCETKCHETENIROEARUNDGS,Y by tobacco companies. Award in 2020.

Kidjo’s next three albums formed A veteran of stages around the world,
parts of a trilogy exploring African- from major festivals to concert halls
derived music styles of the Western and clubs, Kidjo has been hailed for her
THAT COURSES Hemisphere. Oremi, released in 1998, creative diversity and willingness to
mixed traditional music from Benin push the envelope. Fluent in Fon, French,
TAHLALROTNTUROYGAHNNNHGAESTURCISEEVONENGDS with black American styles and featured Yorùbá, Gen, and English, as well as a
a Kidjo cover of Jimi Hendrix’s “Voodoo personal language she developed, she
Child”. The album won Kidjo a spot on is known to sing in multiple languages
the all-female Lilith Fair tour in the -- often within the same song. As a
U.S. A hiatus in Kidjo’s recording career performer, her striking voice, stage
followed, during which she was signed to the Columbia label and began dividing her presence and fluency in multiple
time between Paris and Brooklyn, New York. cultures and languages have won respect
Part of the reason for the move involved Kidjo’s desire to work with American from her peers and expanded her
musicians like Roots drummer Ahmir Thompson and rock singer and bandleader following across national borders. Kidjo
Dave Matthews, with whom Kidjo toured in the summer of 2001. The following has cross-pollinated the West African
summer saw her on the road with Santana in the wake of his smash collaborative traditions of her childhood in Benin
success Supernatural. Santana recorded “Adouma”, a Kidjo song from the Aye album, on with elements of American R&B, funk
his 2002 release Shaman. and jazz, as well as influences from
In 2002 Kidjo returned to her African diaspora trilogy with Black Ivory Soul, an Europe and Latin America.
album that focused on the rhythms of the Brazilian state of Bahia, musically linked to
Benin by centuries of the slave trade. “I’ve been following the route of the slaves,” she “The audience gives me energy, so
told the Boston Herald in reference to the entire trilogy project. The All Music Guide I have to give it back. If I kept it, I
opined that Black Ivory Soul “might just be her most consistent and satisfying effort wouldn’t be able to sleep for two days,”
to date.” she has famously said.
Completing the trilogy, 2004’s Oyaya! saw her working on an album that paired
African guitar styles with Caribbean and Latin styles. Switching to the Razor & Tie Angélique is an inspiring and
label, Kidjo was joined by various popular singers from around the world on 2007’s passionate campaigner and has taken
Djin Djin, including Josh Groban, Peter Gabriel, Amadou & Mariam, and Ziggy part in a wide range of activities on
Marley. Djin Djin was awarded a Grammy award for Best Contemporary behalf of Oxfam, from visiting war-torn
World Music album a year later. Õÿö, followed in 2010 and featured Sudan to lobbying at high-level meetings
an eclectic assortment of cover songs from traditional Beninese with heads of states and the UN, and
material to ‘70s soul music and even Bollywood. Guest artistes joining hundreds of thousands of people
included Roy Hargrove, John Legend, Bono, and Dianne Reeves. on the streets of New York at the
Kidjo is a dynamic and charismatic performer and a stunning People’s Climate March. She has served
vocalist. NPR Music says, “The power of Kidjo’s unflappable voice, as a UNICEF Goodwill Ambassador
the range of her emotional expression, the stellar, genre-bending since 2002, and created the Batonga
musicians who back her and the infectious, activist energy that Foundation, which provides secondary
courses through her songs all transcend any native tongue.” Her school and higher education to girls in
eclectic musical influences include Afropop, Caribbean zouk, Congolese Benin and other West African nations.
rumba, jazz, gospel and Latin sounds.
Her adventurous spirit and collaborative nature have been hallmarks of Kidjo has been married to Hebrail
her career, while a deep-rooted sense of her Beninese and West African heritage since 1987. Their daughter, Naima
has remained a through-line in all of her recordings. Eve (2014), a tribute to African Hebrail Kidjo, was born in 1993 in
France and is a Hollywood actress,
known for Chicago P.D. (2014), Chicago
Med (2015) and Intuition (2020).

www.ngaaliinflightmag.com 69

CUISINE

Sky Garden
Wining and dining on London’s best views

Sky Garden is London’s highest
public garden – a vibrant social
space with 360-degree views
of the city’s iconic skyline.
Here, you can experience London
from a spectacular viewpoint. Enjoy
lush greenery, exquisitely landscaped
gardens, observation decks, and an open-
air terrace.
Located at 20 Fenchurch Street, it was
designed in 2004 by world-renowned
Uruguayan architect Rafael Viñoly.
With his distinctive design, the
building is stunning on an aesthetic
level – incorporating expansive sheets
of glass, and growing larger as the eye
travels upwards.
THE GARDEN
Sky Garden was designed by award-
winning landscape architecture practice
Gillespies.
To create the richly planted terraces,
the designers opted for a variety of
drought-resistant Mediterranean and
South African species. Individual plants
were chosen to work in harmony with
the space – flourishing all year round in
full colour. Among the flowering plants
are African Lily (Agapanthus), Red Hot
Poker (Kniphofia) and Bird of Paradise
(Strelitzia reginae) – alongside fragrant
herbs such as French Lavender.

70 NG'AALI JUNE - AUGUST 2021

THE RESTAURANTS
Darwin Brasserie | The Very Best Of British
London’s highest rooftop brasserie overlooking the Thames
on Level 36, Darwin is a lively all-day dining location inspired
by the very best of British. Weekend breakfasts and brunch
are back!
Fenchurch Restaurant | British Fine Dining
Contemporary British menus with an award-winning wine
list make Fenchurch rooftop restaurant a foodie experience
not to be missed. Showcasing the finest new culinary talent,
Fenchurch has an incredible new Head Chef at the helm;
Michael Carr. Michael’s menu focuses on seasonal ingredients,
innovative flavour combinations, and beautiful presentation. If
you have a restaurant reservation, you do not need to book a
separate access ticket to Sky Garden.
SKY GARDEN’S BARS | THE BEST VIEWS IN TOWN
When booking the Sky Garden bars, you will be allocated
to Sky Pod, City Garden or Fenchurch Terrace based on
availability. For evening bookings they operate a smart, casual
dress code and advise that you dress warmly as this is a
naturally ventilated space.
Sky Pod Bar is open Tuesday – Sunday with DJ nights every
Wednesday – Saturday. Situated amongst the gardens, it offers
the best views from Sky Garden. Sky Pod Rooftop Bar is an
all-day drinking and dining rooftop space, live music venue and
evening destination.
City Garden Bar is an all-day drinking and dining space,
offering spectacular city views.
Fenchurch Terrace is a secluded and elegant space, offering
exclusivity within Sky Garden. The terrace is located adjacent
to the sophisticated Fenchurch Restaurant on Level 37 and
offers unspoilt views from the top of Sky Garden.

To book, please go to the Sky Garden Bars page on skygarden.london. Please note, you will be
allocated to one of their bars based on availability.
Access to the Sky Garden is free of charge, but spaces are limited. Visits must be booked in
advance through the website, and can be made up to three weeks in advance.

www.ngaaliinflightmag.com 71

ROOM WITH A VIEW

KYANINGA

Nestled on the edge of an extinct volcanic crater lake at the
foot of the Rwenzori Mountains, where The Great Rift Valley
meets the mighty Congo Basin, is Kyaninga Lodge.

Kyaninga Lodge is the spectacular result of one man’s vision and six years
of unwavering commitment to creating an experience of Africa’s beauty.
Steve Williams came to Uganda for a safari, and after seeing the beauty
of Lake Kyaninga, never left. The lodge took 6 years to complete, and
two of these were invested purely in the training of local people. Experts from the UK
and mainland Europe were invited to train about 120 local people in various trades
including thatching, masonry, welding, carpentry, electronics and plumbing.
Set apart and raised on platforms, the lodges’s nine cottages were constructed
from more than a thousand hand-carved logs. Private and tranquil, they are neat and
spacious with amazing attention to detail, and the stairs to and fro will give you a run
for any extra calories gained here. Each cottage comes with a choice of twin or double
beds made with the softest bed linen and feather pillows. The rooms open onto
private decks, where one can enjoy morning tea or coffee with views over the lake and
the Rwenzori Mountains.
The food is very good, with a three course menu that is a fusion of European cuisine
and locally sourced ingredients. After dinner, head through to the lounge where you
can relax by the fire with a drink from the fully stocked bar. During the day, you
can unwind in the sauna at the wellness centre, or be soothed with a massage or
reflexology treatment.
Kyaninga Lodge’s beautiful gardens are the creation of London-based landscape
designer Imogen Jenkins. The gardens provide a stunning setting for relaxation,
reflection, and space for games. There is even a lawn tennis court for you to enjoy.
Take a guided walk around the beautiful Kyaninga Crater Lake and Forest and see
how many species of primate you can spot, or walk down to the Lake through the
‘land that time forgot’ forest.
Out of Kyaninga, you can tour the local villages and gain a fascinating insight into
rural Ugandan life. A little further, and you can take a walk up to the escarpment of
the Great Rift Valley itself and stare in wonder as East Africa opens out beneath you.

Make your trip extra special and help raise funds for an amazing charity. Kyaninga Lodge
directly supports the work of its associate charity, the Kyaninga Child Development Centre,
which exists to change the lives of disabled children in Uganda. Read more about the fantastic
work of the KCDC at https://www.kyaningalodge.com/giving-back

72 NG'AALI JUNE - AUGUST 2021

www.ngaaliinflightmag.com 73

WROOM WHITHSA VBIIEAWTEREAOSCAVHNADS
RESORT & SPA
Sarova Hotels, Resorts & Game Lodges
offer guests the perfect stay complemented
by refreshing African hospitality. A team
from Ng’aali visited Sarova Whitesands
Beach Resort and Spa in Mombasa. We flew
Uganda Airlines, which has direct flights to
Mombasa thrice a week, and were picked from the airport
by Peter, the hotel chauffeur.

Set on 10 hectares of tropical, beachfront landscape, this
high-end resort is 11 minutes’ walk from Jomo Kenyatta
Public Beach and 10km from the Mombasa city centre. The
hotel has 340 very tidy air-conditioned rooms in various
offerings including presidential suites, studio suites,
executive suites, sea facing rooms, premier sea facing
rooms, pool facing rooms and garden facing rooms. They
are all equipped with a satellite TV, a minibar and tea-and-
coffee-making facilities.

High sanitary standards are maintained throughout
the hotel, giving one a sense of comfort and security
during this COVID-19 pandemic period. The customer
care service is excellent. The staff are very friendly and
courteous, and take pride in ensuring that guests enjoy a
most relaxing and comfortable stay.

For dining and entertainment, guests can choose from
the themed superb restaurants - Pavilions, Minazi and
the trendy and chic Lido Lounge. Minazi Café serves a
snack and kids menu, while Lido Lounge is a fine dining
restaurant serving seafood and steak. At Pavilions, there is
a wide choice of continental, Arabic, Swahili and Indian
cuisine, all set out on magnificent displays. There is an
evident touch of attention to detail here, thanks to the
hands-on attention from Mr Nzile, the F&B supervisor,
and his team.

During the day, one can choose to go to Tulia Spa, or
workout at the gym. The spa bandas are set on greens
at the beach side at one end of the resort, designed for
privacy and relaxation. Facilities include massage bandas,
ayurvedic massage rooms, outdoor jacuzzi, reflexology pool,
steam and sauna. Anne, one of the massage therapists, was
a marvel, she made us feel new.

74 NG'AALI JUNE - AUGUST 2021

To ensure parents get as much of a
break as the children, the hotel has a
team of specially trained staff that keep
children happy and entertained from
morning till evening. A wide variety
of indoor and outdoor activities are
planned for the day at the Ozone Kids
Club. Children of ages 4-12 years are
welcome and appropriate activities
are planned for different age groups. A
babysitter service is available should
parents want to enjoy a relaxing
romantic evening together.

For those who love water sports, try
Brian’s invigorating aqua aerobics class.
There are five outdoor swimming pools
with water slides and other exciting
water sports for kids and adults alike.

The hotel arranges snorkeling
excursions to Mombasa Marine Park.
Guests get to sail on the Indian Ocean
in a glass-bottom boat, giving one an
uninterrupted view of the life that teems
below the surface. If the tide is low, you
can walk across the receded beach waters
of the solidified coral rocks before
sailing off to the open water to snorkel
above the coral reef and beds of seagrass.
As you float effortlessly on the surface,
you have a front row seat to watch the
dazzling display of colors, textures and
shapes that move in and out of the coral.
It is a thrilling tour.

Excursions to the Marine Park, Fort
Jesus, Mama Ngina Waterfront, Old
Town, Elephant Tusks and Haller Park
Bamburi can be arranged by the hotel at
an extra cost.

For special offers and packages,
visit https://www.sarovahotels.com/
whitesands-mombasa/

FASHION

Seamline
Atelier

RELYING ON THE PAST TO SAVE THE FUTURE
Fashion is known for being
Words: Hassan Sentongo, cyclic in nature, but as ‘Seamline Atelier’ brand name was born,”
Photos: Herbert Rays Kizito we look to the past for Muyizi recounts.
whatever vintage trends
to resurrect, Seamline Their breakout design was an outfit
Atelier, a collective inspired by a Rubik’s Cube. The story
fashion brand, is heading back to our behind it is one that’s both heart
roots, and they have valid reasons. As wrenching and uplifting. Tamale, one
I flip through their new collection, one quarter of the group, has a brother who
look stands out – a white jumpsuit with got caught up in the world of drugs
a flared bottom. However, it’s the top while still in high school. By the time
half of the jumpsuit that grabs most of he completed his A’ Levels, he was
my attention. Its elaborate shoulders hooked, and to make matters worse,
feature pieces from the ‘Ngoma’ (drum), he went ahead to join a gang. One day,
a traditional music instrument that one of his gang mates introduced him
was used as a means of communication to a dangerous drug that caused him a
by many tribes in Uganda. The drum mental breakdown. He left home.
was deconstructed seamlessly to form
the shoulders of the jumpsuit, with a His family searched for him in vain.
cowhide fringe falling from it. Now Two months later, they found out that
that’s a catch! he was roaming the streets of Kajjansi
Seamline Atelier was born in the walls near Entebbe, and immediately took
of Record Fashion School, an incubator him to rehab, where he slowly got better
for fashion designers in Uganda. Made and eventually joined medical school. He
up of four former classmates - Edward is now a medical doctor. And just like
Muyizi, Mukisa Emmanuel Williams, a Rubik’s Cube, upon first sight, their
Tamale Eria and Lukakamwa Ruqmhan, breakout piece is jumbled but slowly
it’s a team effort of creatives trying to transforms into something meaningful,
make a difference by using fashion to inspired by this story.
send strong messages. I spoke to them
to understand the story behind ‘Ngoma’, Seamline Atelier’s creative process is
their new collection. conceptual at heart, and it is evident
“It all began in 2018. There was a in all their work. “Everything we create
class at school called ‘Seamline’ that we starts with a concept or story. Our style
enjoyed very much. That is how the is a mix of avant-garde, which is a bit of
a shocker for the Ugandan market, but
it’s very easy to communicate our stories
this way,” explains Muyizi.

The Rubick’s Cube inspired piece

76 NG'AALI JUNE - AUGUST 2021



FASHION

78 NG'AALI JUNE - AUGUST 2021

FASHION

HOOUPRE was showcased at the Abryanz adds Mukisa. The Mujjaguzo drum
Fashionpreneur Summit in December takes centre stage both in its full and
IS THAT WE (2019) and caught the eye of Talent deconstructed form. The thinking
Africa boss Aly Alibhai, who applauded behind the choice of this particular
RRETOUORNTTSOAONUDR them for their artistry. drum is because of its significance in
SACFUEGLUTARUDROEU,R Buganda culture.
HEROIUTRAGE, At the beginning of 2020, the group
DOSOEOSTNHU’TATTD.IITE participated in a competition organised “Our hope is that we return to our
by the African Union Youth Envoy. roots and safeguard our culture, our
“The theme was ‘Silencing the Gun’, for heritage, so that it doesn’t die out or rot,”
which we came up with a tulip dress Muyizi says.
that showed a gun being tied up at the
muzzle. We won the competition, and Avante-garde creations such as these
this earned us even more attention,” are difficult to imagine on a regular
adds Muyizi. person, outside of the artistic context. I
ask Muyizi how they plan to monetise
Their new collection dubbed ‘Ngoma’ their work.
is no different. It highlights some parts
of cultural identity that are slowly “According to the feedback we are
eroding. getting from people, it’s only a matter of
time. People are beginning to respond to
“In this collection, you can see the what we are doing. Our next collection
Mujjaguzo drum being eaten up by pests. is focused on creating awareness about
This symbolises the death of traditional the effects of child sacrifice. I have a
music; songs like Gwanga Mujje and deeply personal experience with this one,
Sagala Agalamidde which, in the past, but I’m not yet ready to open up about
were used to invite members of the it,” he says.
community to get into action, have died
out,” Lukakamwa explains. The ‘Ngoma’ collection is still in
production, with a release date yet to be
“The Mujjaguzo drum was also a announced. The boys are confident that
symbol of authority among clan heads their creativity is just about to break
in Buganda and Uganda at large,” ground and make a difference, and after
browsing through the collection, it’s
evident that it won’t take long.

www.ngaaliinflightmag.com 79

TRENDS

Heels – Chloe’s Closet, Velvet Clutch Bag – Scarf – Hindu’s
Salaama Road Chloe’s Closet, Salaama Point, Grand Corner,

Road Kampala

Moto Jacket – Couch – M-Maison Home Vase –
Iconic, Senana Mall, Decor & Interior, Quality Hill M-Maison
Home Decor &
Buganda Road Mall, Ggaba Road Interior, Quality
Hill Mall,
Ggaba Road

Think Pink!Cap–LCWaikiki
This season is all about brighter shades of pink; we’re talking hot pink,
fuschia, punch and more. Whether you’re looking to add a modern feel to
your home decor, or an edgy touch to your wardrobe, think pink.
Words and pictures by Hassan Ssentongo

Pleated Skirt –
Chloe’s Closet,
Salaama Road

Socks – Thin Belt - Chloe’s Closet,
LC Waikiki Salaama Road

Plimsolls – Iconic, Senana Backpack – Shaky Instyle,
Mall, Buganda Road Grand Corner, Kampala

Top – Sash’z Closet,
Ground floor,

Garden City Mall

80 NG'AALI JUNE - AUGUST 2021

TRAVEL TIPS

TRAVELLERTIPISNFTOERRNAAFTIRIOSTNATILME SIM card for cheap high-speed data,
wherever you go. Local SIM cards are
the way to go. And while you’re at it,
create a strong password for your phone
because your data is probably the most
valuable thing you have on you. Phones
can be replaced, but data lost is another
issue altogether. Pictures, addresses, apps
and websites that automatically log you
in, etc, are all too sensitive in the wrong
hands.

It can be daunting to plan 2 Set your budget 5 Meet the locals
your first international Some people prefer to set their budget Whether you’re staying in the
trip, and it requires a lot of ahead of travel, sometimes before deciding best hotels or the hostel with your
preparation. But don’t worry! on the destination or length of trip. And roommates humping on the bunk
It’s easier than you might think. this probably makes sense if you’re on a above your head, you can meet other
Let us guide you down this very strict or limited budget. It is advisable like-minded people. However, it’s good
rabbit hole. to have a dream destination in mind, and to get familiar with the people around
then build your budget around the airfare you. There can be a language barrier, but
1 Have all the travel requirements and average destination costs. meeting the locals will only enhance your
First things first, make sure you 3 Take a breather when you land travel experience. A good way to do this
have your money, plane tickets, When you get off a plane, people may is through sites such as couchsurfing.org.
local travel tickets (bus, boat, train) bombard you and the other passengers There are so many incredible benefits
beforehand so you know the most with cheap taxis or rides to get into the of learning a new language before you
cost-effective and safest ways to travel. city, which can be overwhelming. It helps travel. You can practice your language
Check the travel requirements for to sit down at a simple cafe in the airport skills by signing up with Babbel.
your nationality. Granted, you can and breathe for just 15 minutes or grab a 6 Keep a travel journal
manage with no reservations and pull snack. Not only are you able to prevent It’s fun to be able to look back on your
things off, but the wrong visa will yourself from being possibly ripped off in a adventures and remember things from
not get you far. It is imperative to taxi scam, but those people will most likely the trip that you’ve since forgotten;
check for recommended or required disappear in that time. it will make you smile. Whether you
vaccinations. Plan ahead for your 4 Get your phone sorted out keep little souvenirs like ticket stubs or
home life; your pet can’t suddenly There are few things more freeing than postcards in your journal, incorporate
feed itself, among other things. an unlocked smartphone. If your phone is doodles, or just write in it, they are so
Arrange for pet care, childcare, and GSM locked, you can probably get a local fun to look back on and read! Keep it
house care so you can have a stress- for just yourself, or let other people live
free trip. through your adventures.
7 Stock up on entertainment
Last but not least, long flights can be
exhausting and boring. Keep yourself
entertained by watching movies on
the inflight entertainment system, and
download your favourite shows on
Netflix. You can also line up a couple of
podcast episodes, read a few chapters
of a book or play games on your phone.
Don’t forget to stay hydrated and to get
up and walk around every few hours, so
your feet don’t swell.

www.ngaaliinflightmag.com 81

SAFARIGUIDES AND TIPS
PACKING LIST

This travel-friendly Tangle Teezer detangling With the Jetboil Foldable Water Bottle: A foldable water
hairbrush smooths, shines and defines Flash cooking bottle is perfect for filling up from the
on-the-go. It tames stray strands and
system, enjoy cocoa, water fountains after airport security, or
detangles wet or dry hair without pulling. coffee or a gourmet folding down and packing into your bag

freeze-dried after you’ve finished a hike.
meal in a jiffy. It
boils water in 100
seconds, allowing
you to conserve fuel
and dig in faster.

With Personalised Sand Imprint Flip Flops, you
can will your thoughts in the sand. Wear them

to cheer up your friends, and express your
individuality.

An Ostrich Pillow is an extremely useful Pack a Travel Speaker, because
accessory when you’re on the go and just sometimes you need a little music to
need a quick nap to refresh and increase
get a party started.
productivity.

The Shemagh is The Tech Taco is exactly what it sounds like;
a soft piece of a taco for your technologies! Fold it around
woven cotton worn
in arid regions your bundled cords like a taco shell, snap,
for protection and you’re on your merry way.
from direct sun
exposure, and to RFID Blocking Travel Wallet: With the
protect the mouth travel scams these days, walking past
and eyes from the wrong person could see your cards
blown dust and
skimmed.
sand.

82 NG'AALI JUNE - AUGUST 2021

THreaavletlh GUIDES AND TIPS

WCaelaetnhdearr

Don’t let sickness stifle your travel plans. Here are tips to keep you Best time to visit Uganda month by month:
in good health while in Uganda. JANUARY TO FEBRUARY
This is one of the two best seasons out of the year to visit
COVID-19 PCR TEST AND MASKS Uganda because this is considered a dry season with little
All travellers will be required to present to the airline, proof to no rainfall. It is a popular time for trekking mountain
of a negative PCR test result for COVID-19, conducted 72 gorillas and chimpanzees as well as birdwatching and
hours or less before departure and done by a health facility viewing a variety of wildlife.
accredited by the host Government. Passengers must carry MARCH TO MAY
along an official printed certificate as SMS and digital This is when the Uganda climate changes to one of the
certificates will not be accepted. wet seasons. Some rains can be heavy, causing flooding
While in transit, the returnee will be required to adhere and road inaccessibility. However, if you don’t mind
to the host country’s Standard Operating Procedures the rain, you could save money during this time with
(SOPs) for safe travel and the SOPs provided by the airline reduced accommodation rates. You will also appreciate
while on the plane. This includes wearing a face mask and the lush scenery and abundance of migratory birds during
sanitisation. this period.
JUNE TO AUGUST
YELLOW FEVER HEALTH CARD Another dry season, this period is one of the best times to
A must for most African nations, get these from your visit for wildlife viewing. It is possible that you could see
doctor, and don’t wait until the last minute! Aside from some rains during these months, but it most likely will not
vaccinations, don’t forget your necessary medications. ruin your itinerary.
According to the CDC, yellow fever vaccination is required SEPTEMBER TO OCTOBER
to enter Uganda if you are travelling from a country with While you can expect rainfall during these months, you
risk of transmission. should still be able to enjoy excellent opportunities to
view wildlife.
FIRST AID KIT NOVEMBER
Out in the wilderness, the nearest town could be hours or November is when you may experience heavy rain showers
even days away. This means catching a cold could turn into turning the landscape green again. This is another good
a miserable experience. That is why it’s important to pack time to see migratory birds.
some cough drops, Sudafed, diarrhoea medication, Aspirin, DECEMBER
Dramamine, and allergy medication. You don’t need to December is when the rains slack off and temperatures start
bring a full first aid kit, as most lodges and guides have their to rise along with gorilla tracking rates. If you can’t stand
own. Simply think about the first aid medications you may the heat, December may present a better month to visit
need if you start feeling sick. than January and February.

HAND SANITISER
Why not protect yourself as much as possible? Getting sick
is tough, but getting sick on a safari could be a nightmare.
There are times when clean water for hand washing may not
be available, so hand sanitiser will come in handy.

www.ngaaliinflightmag.com 83





NG’AALI KIDS

How do cheetahs run so fast?

As the fastest land animal in the world, the Their long
cheetah can clock up speeds of 120km per hour, slender body is
far faster than any other cat. Cheetahs are aerodynamically built
powerful predators that are designed for optimum and streamlined over
performance.
light bones.

Their
small, flat-faced
head allows their
eyes to be positioned

for maximum
binocular vision.

Large nostrils A large liver,
and lungs provide heart and adrenal
quick air intake to
allow them to breathe gland facilitate
more easily while a rapid physical

running. response for
sprinting.

The They
dark tear marks have long, slim,
beneath each eye yet powerful legs
are to aid in hunting by which are built
minimising the sun’s
for speed.
glare.

86 NG'AALI JUNE - AUGUST 2021

NG’AALI KIDS

A DKNIDOYWO?U
cheetah’s
spine is very flexible ● Unlike other cats, cheetahs don’t roar,
to help with rapid they growl and make a hissing and moaning
turning during a sound. When communicating with each other,
cheetahs use a high-pitched chirp or yelp which
chase. can be heard up to 2km away.

The ● When sprinting, cheetahs spend more
cheetah’s tail time in the air than on the ground. Their stride
acts as a rudder (length between steps) is 6-7 metres and their
for quick turning and feet only touch the ground twice during each
for counteracting its stride.
body weight.
WTCOHHESEEERTEEAHS
Special paw
pads and blunt Today, there are roughly 7,000 wild cheetahs
semi-retractable claws left in Africa and a few hundred in Iran. They
on their feet provide are best seen in Kenya, Uganda, Namibia,
great traction. Zimbabwe, Zambia, Botswana and South Africa

www.ngaaliinflightmag.com 87









ROUTES

92 NG'AALI JUNE - AUGUST 2021

Expansion Map

Sales & Ticketing Offices

Kampala: Victoria University Towers, Jinja Road, Kampala - Uganda | Tel: Tel: +256 (0)200 406 400 | Email: [email protected]
Entebbe Town: Victoria Mall, Shop G.09, Ground Floor, Berkeley Road Entebbe | Tel: +256 (0)200 406 421 / +256 707110416 |
Email: [email protected]
Entebbe International Airport: 2nd Floor, Passenger Terminal Building | Tel: +256 (0) 200406420

Nairobi City: 12th floor Lonrho House, Standard Street | Tel: +254 707 900777 / +254 100 900777 | Email: [email protected]

Nairobi Airport: Terminal 2, Jomo Kenyatta International Airport | Tel: +254 101 090 644 | Email: [email protected]
Dar es Salaam: Viva Towers, G09/10, Ali Hassan Mwinyi Road, Dar es Salaam, Tanzania | Tel: +255 764 111983 | +255 765 426554 |
Email: [email protected]
Juba: SADECO Building, Airport Road | Tel: +211 (0)928900500, +211 (0)917747159 | Email: [email protected]

Bujumbura: Ground Floor, Jubilee Centre Building | Chausee prince Louis Rwagasore | Tel: +257 22 280844 | Email: [email protected]

Mogadishu: Aden Adde International Airport, Mogadishu | Tel: +252 (0)615550020 | +252 (0)615141315 | Email: [email protected]

Kinshasa: Avenue du Col. Lukusa No 32 BIS | Tel: +243 817 860 333 | Email: [email protected]

Mombasa: Nyali Center, Ground floor | Tel: +254 100 396810 / +256 100 396811 | Email: [email protected]

Arusha / Kilimanjaro: 2nd floor, Ngorongoro Conversation Building | Tel: +255 652 682 851 / +255 713 414 777 | Email: [email protected]

Cargo, Mail and Parcels: Entebbe International Airport | Cargo Terminal Room 29 | Cell: +256 (0) 758 380065 | Mail: [email protected]
HEAD OFFICES: Uganda National Airlines Company Limited dba Uganda Airlines | EagleAir Hangar Complex | Entebbe International Airport - Old Airport |
P.O. Box 431, Entebbe, Uganda | Tel: +(256)200 406 400 | Email: [email protected]

www.ngaaliinflightmag.com 93

BOOKSHELF

OUR BEST travel book RECOMMENDATIONS

Seeking inspiration for your next trip? Then pick up a book, be it a biography, historical page-turner or mesmerising novel. Our
travel books all feature irresistible settings (real and fictionalised). We bet you’ll want to get on that plane to these destinations
before you’ve turned the last page!

UGANDA - CULTURE SMART! INDIA - CULTURE SMART! LONELY PLANET DUBAI &
THE ESSENTIAL GUIDE TO THE ESSENTIAL GUIDE TO ABU DHABI (TRAVEL GUIDE)
CUSTOMS & CULTURE CUSTOMS & CULTURE By Lonely Planet
By Dr Ian Clarke By Becky Stephen
This guide is your passport to the
Uganda has been named one of the best India’s population is as varied and most relevant, up-to-date advice
tourist destinations several times by key colourful as the spice markets of Old on what to see and skip, and
global tourism players. In addition to its Delhi. The chaos and beauty of colour what hidden discoveries await
game parks, home to the Big Five, Uganda and sound, the language shifts every you. Learn about Dubai through
has one of the largest numbers of recorded ten miles, the household variations lifelike dioramas, shop for dazzling
bird species of any country. It is also the of spicy and sharp, sweet and sour, jewellery at Deira’s Gold Souq, or
home of the famed mountain gorillas, and the insistent smells of everyday join a walking tour of the Bastakia
the mighty Nile River provides some of the life lived very much in public, and Quarter; all with your trusted
best whitewater rafting in the world. the invasion of personal space, will travel companion. Get to the heart
challenge the most experienced of Dubai and Abu Dhabi and
traveller. begin your journey now!

GREATER THAN A TOURIST -
MOMBASA KENYA
By Kagwima Elvis Ndegwa

Most travel books tell you how to travel like a tourist.
Although there is nothing wrong with that, in these
pages you will discover advice that will help you
throughout your stay. Travel like a local. Slow down,
stay in one place, and get to know the people and the
culture. By the time you finish this book, you will be
eager and prepared to travel to Mombasa.

94 NG'AALI JUNE - AUGUST 2021

BOOK SHELF

DIPLOMATIC MISSIONS

ALGERIA EUROPEAN UNION KENYA [email protected]
14 John Babiiha Avenue Kololo 15th Floor Crested Towers 8A Elgon Terrace Kololo SOMALIA
0414 232918; 0312 265212/3 0414 701000 0414 258235/6 16 Nile Avenue
[email protected] Delegation-Uganda@eeas. [email protected] 0414 257460
AUSTRIA europa.eu LIBYA kampalaembassy.gov.so
6 Hill Lane Kololo FRANCE 28 Prince Charles Drive Kololo SOUTH AFRICA
0414 235796/0312 515865 16-18 Lumumba Avenue 0417 700700 15A Nakasero Road
[email protected] 0414 304500/510 [email protected] 0417 702100
BELGIUM ambafrance.kampala@ MOZAMBIQUE [email protected]
Rwenzori Towers diplomatie.gouv.fr 4 Kampala Road SOUTH KOREA
0414 349559 GHANA Orient House First Floor 14 Ternan Ave, Nakasero
[email protected] 6 Kalekezi Close 0414 251184 0414 500197
BRITISH HIGH COMMISSION Kololo Hill Drive [email protected] [email protected]
4 Windsor Loop Road 0773 718672, 0772 408765 NETHERLANDS SOUTH SUDAN
T: 0312 312000 tomburukuku@yahoo co.uk 2 Nakasero Road 12 Sezibwa Road Nakasero
[email protected] GERMANY Rwenzori Courts 4th Floor 0414 230272
BURUNDI 15 Philip Road Kololo 0414 34 6000 [email protected]
14 SM Chambers 0414 501111 [email protected] SPAIN
0414 235850 [email protected] NIGERIA 27 Baskerville Avenue
[email protected] GREECE 33 Nakasero Road 0414 342372
CANADA M289 Ntinda Industrial Area 0414 233691/2 [email protected]
14 Parliament Avenue 0414 286961 [email protected] SUDAN
0414 258141/0414 348141 [email protected] NORTH KOREA 21 Nakasero Road
Kampalacanadaconsulate.ca HOLY SEE (VATICAN EMBASSY) 10 Prince Charles Drive Kololo 0312 261358
CHINA Chwa 11 Road Mbuya Hill 0414 343424 [email protected]
37 Malcolm X Avenue Kololo 0414 505619; 0772 221167 [email protected] SWEDEN
0414 231095/0414 255881 [email protected] NORWAY 24 Lumumba Avenue
[email protected] ICELAND 18B Akii Bua Road Nakasero 0417 700800
CUBA 3 Lumumba Avenue 0417 112000 [email protected]
10 Lower Kololo Terrace K.A.R 0312 531100; 0414 341079 [email protected] SWITZERLAND
0414 233742 kampala[at]mfa.is PAKISTAN 6 Archer Road Kololo
[email protected] INDIA 3 Ministers Village Friendship Rd 0414 233854
DRC 11 Kyadondo Road Nakasero 0392 940285, 0703 632301 [email protected]
20 Philip Road Kololo 0414 259398/344631 [email protected] TANZANIA
0414 250299/0312 823321 [email protected] RUSSIA 6 Kagera Road
[email protected] IRAN 28 Malcolm X Avenue Kololo 0414 256272
DENMARK 8 Moyo Close Kololo 0414 345798 [email protected]
3 Lumumba Avenue 0414 505727 [email protected] THAILAND
0312 263211; 0772 221470 [email protected] RWANDA 10 Kalitunsi Road Bugolobi
[email protected] IRELAND 2 Nakaima Road Kitante 0414 253664
EGYPT 23 Yusuf Lule Road 0414 344045 [email protected]
4 Lower Kololo Terrace 0417 713000 [email protected] TURKEY
0414 254525/345152 www.embassyofireland.ug SAHRAWI 9 Elgon Terrace
[email protected] ITALY Ntinda Muwafu Curve 0772 222121, 0414 500182
ERITREA 11 Lourdel Road Nakasero 0312 299456 [email protected]
49b Upper Kololo Terrace 0414 250442 [email protected] UNITED ARAB EMIRATES
0414 342625 [email protected] SAUDI ARABIA Yusuf Lule Road
[email protected] JAPAN TWED Towers, 6th Fl. Wing B 0312 203119
ETHIOPIA Plot 8 Kyadondo Road 0313 340616/7 [email protected]
3L Kitante Close 0414 349542 [email protected] USA
0414 348340/341881 [email protected] SERBIA Nsambya Ggaba Road
[email protected] 98 Luthuli Avenue 0414 259792
0414 235733; 0414 232858 [email protected]

www.ngaaliinflightmag.com 95

TRAVEL GUIDE GENERAL INFORMATION

Welcome to the Pearl! Voltage

GETTING AROUND The primary wall outlet type is Type G (BS-1363). Voltage is
220-240 volts AC @ 50 Hz.
1.Transfer to the city/your hotel Laptops and gadgets in general have chargers that are
already compatible with 100-240 volts. If yours is higher
Thanks to reliable Internet at the airport, it's possible for you or lower, you will need a simple plug adapter. The
to order an Uber ride to your next destination in Kampala or recommended adapter for a Type G outlet is #EA7.
Entebbe. If you are in a hurry, you can take advantage of the
availability of the many cabs at the airport whose drivers are Security
always stationed at the arrivals terminal, ready for a win-win
bargain with travellers. Uganda’s towns are safe to visit any time of the year.
This development has been achieved through effective
2.Visa collaboration of the different security organs like the army
(Uganda People’s Defence Forces), Uganda Police and
Visitors to Uganda must have a valid visa in accordance with Tourism Police. That said, like any other city, Kampala too
national immigration laws, guidelines and formalities. Uganda has its share of trouble makers. It is thus not advisable to
visas can now be obtained online at https://visas.immigration. walk alone in isolated areas, especially at night.
go.ug/
Alternatively, you may obtain the visa at Uganda's missions Water
abroad or on arrival at the ports of entry around the country’s
borders. The costs of visas are as follows: Single entry $50 It is safer to drink boiled or bottled water. The average price
per individual, multiple entry visa 6-12 months $100 and East of bottled water is Shs1,000 per 500ml.
African tourist visas cost $50. Accompany your application
documents with a valid yellow fever certificate. For more Transport
information, visit https://visas.immigration.go.ug/
The easiest and fastest way to get around cities is boda-boda
3. Nationals who don’t need visas rides; a motorbike mode of transportation that offers taxi
services - each is limited to carrying one passenger. The
Nationals of the following countries don’t need visas when most professional service provider in this case is Uber Boda,
visiting Uganda: COMESA (Angola, Eritrea, Malawi, Safe Boda and Taxify, all of which can be accessed via their
Madagascar, Seychelles, Swaziland, Zambia, Comoros, Kenya, mobile phone applications.
Mauritius, Zimbabwe and Botswana), East Africa (Kenya, If you prefer using vehicles/cabs and wish to avoid traffic,
Rwanda, Tanzania and Burundi), others (Antigua, Barbados, the recommended time for travel is 6am to 8am, 10am
Fiji, Grenada, Lesotho, Sierra Leone, Solomon Islands, The to12pm and 3pm to 5pm.
Grenadines, Vanuatu, Ghana, Cyprus, Bahamas, Belize, Gambia,
Jamaica, Malta, Singapore, St. Vincent-Tonga and Ireland). Language

IMPORTANT CONTACTS Uganda is home to over 50 ethnic groups, the majority of
whom speak the national language, English. If you wish to
EMERGENCY CONTACTS get interpreters of foreign languages, visit the website of
Uganda Ambulance Services: Mob +256782556878 your country’s high commission / embassy in Kampala.
Medical flight evacuations: Mob Aero Club, Fly Uganda
Mob +256772712557 Financial transactions
Uganda Police: Emergency 999/112. UPF Headquarters
+256414233814; +256414250613. The most used currency is Uganda Shillings, the national
Department of Immigration: Mob +256414595945 currency. Tourist areas and facilities accept foreign
currencies too, particularly US dollars. Cash is the
OTHER CONTACTS preferred means of transaction in Uganda. Credit cards are
Uganda Wildlife Authority (manages national parks): less dependable because of unreliable internet connection
+256414355000/+256312355000 in some areas.
Uganda Tourism Board: +256414342196/7
Forex

The foreign exchange rates at forex bureaus are more
favourable than those at banks. The main street of most
towns is where you will find the highest concentration of
forex bureaus. In Kampala, go to Jinja-Kampala road.

Banking and Office hours

Most commercial banks and corporate offices operate from
8am to 5pm on weekdays and 9am to 12pm on Saturdays.
Most don’t open on Sundays.

96 NG'AALI JUNE - AUGUST 2021

A PERFECT ESCAPE

FOR BUSINESS OR LEISURE

With 144 rooms, an outdoor swimming pool, a health club, conference
facilities, 3 restaurants, 3 bars, laundry services, a business center, gardens
with a natural ambience, Lake Victoria Hotel - Entebbe is a fitting choice
for a retreat away from the bustle and noise of the city.

Day Offer Price
Friday Show-cooking with live Band Ugx 60,000 with a soda
Saturday BBQ Dinner Ugx 60,000 with a soda
Friday - Sunday Weekend offer on accommodation $140 double, $100 single
Daily Drought Beer – buy 2 get 1 free, from 6pm Ugx 16,000 for 3 beers

Plot 23/31 Circular Road | P. O Box 15, Entebbe | Tel: +256 312 310 100/+256 414 351 600
Email: [email protected]

Want to Hire the Right
person Faster? Call us

1 Save 2 Save 3 Get the
Time Money Best

ADVISORY +256 772 159 740/ 704 607 167
CONSULTING [email protected]
OUTSOURCING www.welcometoebc.com

BTRYADVEELSRTEQINUIARETMIEONTNS

Uganda Airlines has undertaken the necessary safety measures In case of any medical emergency while in the United Republic
in compliance with approved guidelines by host Governments of Tanzania, please call the toll-free Health Emergency Number
aimed at protecting passengers and crew. The following 199.
guidelines will be applicable for all our flights. For more information check: https://www.traveldoc.aero /

All travellers will be required to present to the airline, proof of a SOUTH SUDAN (JUBA)
negative PCR test result for COVID-19, conducted within 72 hours
of departure and done by a health facility accredited by the No quarantine is mandated in South Sudan.
host Government. Passengers must carry along an official printed All arriving passengers are required to present a valid COVID-19
certificate as SMS and digital certificates will not be accepted. certificate from an approved laboratory in a departure country,
tested within 72 hours before travel, and must provide a letter of
While in transit, the returnee will be required to adhere to the No Objection while entering South Sudan.
host country’s Standard Operating Procedures (SOPs) for safe For more information check: https://www.traveldoc.aero/
travel and the SOPs provided by the airline while on the plane.
This includes wearing a face mask and sanitisation. KENYA (NAIROBI, MOMBASA)

Every individual traveller is advised to carry a spare mask(s) in Passengers will be refused entry if not holding a hard copy
case they need to replace the original one that they have. Used of a negative PCR test certificate obtained within 96 hours
masks will only be disposed of in a facility provided for that before departure. This does not apply to passengers holding a
purpose. diplomatic passport and their accompanying family members,
provided they are holding a negative PCR test certificate
UGANDA (ENTEBBE) obtained within 7 days before departure.
Passengers are required to submit a Travellers Health
All departing and arriving passengers will be subjected to Surveillance Form online at https://ears.health.go.ke/
temperature checks and enhanced screening. Passengers who airline_registration/.
may have a body temperature above 37.5 (99.5°F) or any Passengers are required to fill a Passenger Locator Form during
symptoms of coronavirus will be referred to further management their flights to Kenya, due to the outbreak of novel coronavirus.
which may include testing and/or quarantine (72 hours). Passengers must have a body temperature not above 37.5℃
No quarantine will be applicable for travellers with a negative (99.5°F) and must not have any symptoms of coronavirus. They
PCR test, body temperature below 37.5 (99.5°F), and who do not must hold a QR code showing they have completed a Travellers
present any symptoms of COVID-19. Health Surveillance Form online prior to departure. This is
For more information check: https://www.traveldoc.aero / completed online here: https://ears.health.go.ke/airline_
registration /
TANZANIA (DAR ES SALAAM, KILIMANJARO, For more information check: https://www.traveldoc.aero/
ZANZIBAR )
SOMALIA (MOGADISHU)
All travellers whether foreign or returning residents entering or
leaving the United Republic of Tanzania will be subjected to Check: https://www.traveldoc.aero /
enhanced screening for COVID-19 infection. There will be no 14
days of mandatory quarantine. BURUNDI (BUJUMBURA)
All travellers whether foreigners or returning residents whose
countries or airlines require them to get tested for COVID-19 and Check: https://www.traveldoc.aero /
turn negative, as a condition for travelling, will be required to
present a certificate upon arrival. Travellers from other countries TRAVEL ADVISORIES
with symptoms and signs related to COVID-19 infection will
undergo enhanced screening and may be tested for RT-PCR. Please note that some travel advisories have been issued
While in the country, all international travellers should observe by a number of countries and may include travel restrictions.
adherence to Infection. Prevention and control measures such as Some of the countries on our network that have issued travel
hand hygiene, wearing masks, and keeping physical distancing restrictions include Uganda, Kenya, Tanzania, Somalia, South
are deemed appropriate. Sudan, and Bujumbura. For more details, please visit: https://
All travellers are required to truthfully fill out a Traveller’s www.iatatravelcentre.com/international-travel-document-
Surveillance Form available onboard or in any other transport news/1580226297.htm
means and submit to Port Health Authorities upon arrival.
All international arriving passengers shall dispose of their masks Important: All travellers on Uganda Airlines are required to
after use during travel at designated waste collection containers reconfirm their flight within 72 hours to their travel date.
upon arrival.

98 NG'AALI JUNE - AUGUST 2021