Ng'aali Inflight Magazine Sep-Dec Issue 2021

SEPTEMBER - DECEMBER 2021

THE COLOURFUL

BO-
KAAP
OF
CAPE TOWN

36 40
HONEYMOONING ADVENTURES ZANZIBAR’S
PRISON ISLAND
IN THE PEARL

NAIROBI • MOMBASA • MOGADISHU • JUBA • DAR ES SALAAM • KILIMANJARO • BUJUMBURA • ZANZIBAR • KINSHASA • JO’BURG









Contents

SEPTEMBER - DECEMBER 2021

REGULARS 64

10 FOREWORD From The Minister Of Works And 68
Transport

12 CEO’S NOTE
16 BUSINESS TRAVELLER Uganda’s FINTECH

Ecosystem
22 (SPORTS) When Davis Kamoga Won Bronze
26 (SPORTS) Peruth Chemutai Writes History At

Tokyo 2020
62 ANIMAL KINGDOM Bonobos
64 CELEBRITY PROFILE Florence Kasumba
68 CUISINE Hickory Restaurant & Lounge
70 ROOM WITH A VIEW
74 FASHION Bangi Bagwana: Eguana Kampala
78 TRENDS Black Elegance
82 NG’AALI KIDS
90 ROUTES
94 BOOKSHELF

78

6 NG'AALI SEPTEMBER - DECEMBER 2021



DESTINATIONS 28
46
28 UGANDA
40 ZANZIBAR
44 LONDON
46 DUBAI
49 KINSHASA
50 MOMBASA
56 KENYA
60 SOUTH AFRICA

GUIDES AND TIPS

79 TRAVEL PACKING TIPS
80 SAFARI PACKING LIST
81 TRAVEL HEALTH AND WEATHER CALENDAR
95 DIPLOMATIC MISSIONS
96 TRAVEL GUIDE
98 TRAVEL REQUIREMENTS

40

SEPTEMBER - DECEMBER 2021 Ng'aali, the name of our inflight magazine, is derived from the local
THE COLOURFUL Luganda name of the Crested Crane, which is the national bird of the
African nation of Uganda. It appears on the flag and Coat of Arms and
BO- can be found near the country’s many lakes and rivers.
KAAP Crested Cranes stand over 3 feet tall, with a wingspan of up to 6.5 feet.
OF They live up to 22 years, but hatch in 30 days and reach maturity in 3
CAPE TOWN years. These majestic birds practise monogamy - they remain with the
same breeding partner for life. Literature has it that if one is widowed,
36 40 On The Cover: they stay single until they die. They are omnivores, so like humans, they eat
HONEYMOONING ADVENTURES ZANZIBAR’S The Colourful And both meat and plants.
PRISON ISLAND Fascinating Bo-Kaap
IN THE PEARL (Pg 60)

NAIROBI • MOMBASA • MOGADISHU • JUBA • DAR ES SALAAM • KILIMANJARO • BUJUMBURA • ZANZIBAR • KINSHASA • JO’BURG

8 NG'AALI SEPTEMBER - DECEMBER 2021

CONTRIBUTORS

KALUNGI KABUYE CHARLOTTE BEAUVOISIN MARK NAMANYA KENNETH MUHANGI
Kabuye is an award winning Conservation volunteer and This acclaimed sports journalist Muhangi is a Lecturer of IP
writer and photographer, and marketing trainer Charlotte has won multiple awards in and ICT Law, Partner at KTA
has been a journalist for more Nagawa Beauvoisin has been his field. A former President of Advocates, award-winning
than 20 years. He has been writing the award-winning Uganda Sports Press Association author and trainer in IP and ICT.
editor of several magazines and travel blog Diary of a Muzungu (USPA), Namanya's command of He also advises the Ministry of
newspapers in Uganda. since 2008. She has written for the sports language is unrivalled. ICT on innovation and ICT policy
the Bradt Uganda Guidebook, development, and is a consultant
Fodor’s and Lonely Planet. with the World Bank.

SOLOMON OLENY SARAH MARSHALL HASSAN SSENTONGO MARK EVELEIGH
Oleny is a creative, self driven Inspired by nature and wild Ssentongo is a writer and Eveleigh, a frequent visitor
professional travel journalist. places, Marshall is a freelance editor. He lives in Kampala, and to Uganda, has contributed
He has worked with CNN to travel writer and photographer currently serves as Creative 750+ full-length features to
profile tourism in Uganda, and based in the UK. She regularly Director at Satisfashion UG, an 100+ international publications,
is a recipient of nine Tourism visits Africa as part of her work online platform that celebrates including BBC Wildlife, BBC
Excellence Awards since the for the Tusk Trust Conservation fashion. He is passionate about Earth, Geographical, National
start of his journalism career in Awards. fashion and food. Geographic Traveller and The
2008. Independent.

Publisher Dora Barungi Web Editor Solomon Oleny Sales Executives The views expressed
Administrator Doreen Kabatesi Atukwase Clare Murekyezi, in Ng'aali are not
Writers Irene Kaitesi, Theresa Among necessarily those of the
DESIGN Adele Cutler, Kenneth editor, staff or publishers.
Graphics Designer Esther Nabaasa Muhangi, Mark Eveleigh, Website and Social Media Ng'aali is the registered
Kalungi Kabuye, Sarah Management trademark name of the
EDITORIAL Marshall, Solomon Oleny, Solomon Oleny Uganda Airlines inflight
Editorial Consultant Adele Cutler Mark Namanya, Hassan magazine.
Ssentongo, Charlotte PUBLISHED BY:
Beauvoisin, Lauren Juliff CONTACT US
www.ngaaliinflightmag.com
PHOTOGRAPHY Tel: +256 782 555 213
Peter Hogel Address
Acacia Mall, 4th floor
ADVERTISING AND SALES
Sales & Marketing Director
Richard Senkwale

www.ngaaliinflightmag.com 9

FOREWORD

Hon. Gen Katumba Edward Wamala UGANDA AIRLINES
Minister Of Works And Transport IS WELL POSITIONED
FOR THE FUTURE

ighteen years had passed since the flying crane had taken to the skies.
And when it finally happened in 2019, skepticism turned into belief
and then to delight for Ugandans. They were seeing the Uganda flag
in the sky for the first time in decades. What had started as an idea
in 2015 had successfully evolved into a remarkable milestone. The
launch of the national airline signalled a new dawn in the history of
our country and started the rebuilding of air connectivity by a home-
based airline after a long absence from the sector.

It was a testimony to all that Uganda was open for business. The
airline brought more opportunities for foreign direct investment
in many sectors of the economy such as tourism, hotel, restaurant,
agriculture, retail, oil & gas and many others. It also heralded Uganda’s
re-entry into the ever growing and expanding aviation industry.

The revival of Uganda Airlines was highlighted as one of the flagship
projects under NDPIII, with the airline expected to help drive Uganda
towards its long-term development goals by providing necessary
aviation infrastructure. Under Vision 2040, the country has set out
many key projects aimed at transforming the Ugandan economy into
Middle Income status by 2040, and the airline is one of them.

The aircraft fleet was carefully selected with the passenger in mind.
The CRJ900 with the new “atmosphere cabin” gives the passenger a
more spacious and comfortable cabin experience, offers classy seats
with more legroom and more space in the overhead stowage bins for
carryon baggage.

10 NG'AALI SEPTEMBER - DECEMBER 2021

Similarly, the choice of A330-800neo aircraft for long-haul routes took account of its new technologies. 11
In this COVID19 era, the use of HEPA filters with 99.99% effective filtration of microbes and viruses
on both the CRJ900 and the A330-800neo ensures the best cabin environment of any fleet of aircraft in
operation today.

In just four months of operation since the start of the regional flights in August 2019, the airline
expanded its route network to cover 8 destinations - Bujumbura, Dar es Salaam, Zanzibar, Kilimanjaro,
Juba, Mogadishu, Mombasa, and Nairobi. Currently, two other destinations have been added - Kinshasa
and Johannesburg.

Implementation of the airline’s network was interrupted by the COVID19 pandemic in March 2020,
which resulted in worldwide lockdowns. Whereas this setback disrupted the activities under the business
plan, the airline tried to reclaim lost time and received its two A330-800neo aircraft earlier this year.

The entire aviation industry through the International Civil Aviation Organisation (ICAO), together
with airline associations such as IATA, AFRAA etc, plus government health authorities and airports,
continue to seek to harmonise procedures to cope with the COVID19 crisis with the objective of
finding common ground on an acceptable “Travel Pass”. There is a light at the end of the tunnel with
the vaccination efforts being carried out around the world. Our hope is that sooner rather than later,
international travel returns to normal.

Uganda Airlines implemented the new Standard Operating Procedures which include:
(i) COVID19 PCR tests before travel
(ii) temperature checks at airports and boarding gates
(iii) the wearing of face masks
(iii) social distancing within airport premises
(iv) extensive sanitisation at airports and aboard the aircraft. These, together with the protective
equipment adorned by the crew, have enabled the airline to offer safe flights to its destinations across
the region.
However, these efforts are being hampered by the reported new variants and waves of COVID19, which
have led to new lockdown measures in various countries - a new threat to air travel.
On the bright side, the two A330-800neo aircraft have finally gotten the Air Operator Certificate from
the Civil Aviation Authority, and soon shall fly long-haul international routes starting with Dubai in
October 2021. More inter-continental flights to Europe (London), Asia (Guangzhou) and the Middle East
(Mumbai) will follow. Uganda Airlines will continue to add more cities to its Africa network starting with
Addis Ababa, Lusaka, Harare, Goma, Lubumbashi, Khartoum, and Kigali in the near future.
On May 19, 2021, the airline upgraded its Reservations and Booking Systems to the Amadeus Altea Suite
and achieved global connectivity with Galileo and Travelport, which makes its network visible worldwide.
The airline is now implementing its framework of alliances, interlines and codeshare with partners across
the industry in order to serve passengers better.
Uganda Airlines is well positioned for the future and we wish to thank all those who patronised our
services, who trusted us even as we were taking our first steps in the sky. We appeal to all Ugandans to take
pride in having our Crane wings in the skies, and implore them to continue flying Uganda Airlines at every
opportunity.
For the fresh food exporters, we are throwing a challenge at them with our long haul A330-800neo
aircraft, which have bigger cargo capacity to put our fresh organic products out there. UCAA has expanded
the cold holding capacity from a parity of 25,000 metric tonnes to 100,000 metric tonnes holding capacity
and is ready to service their needs.
The Government of Uganda continues to stand with the national carrier and to support and invest in the
business especially in this tumultuous COVID19 era.
For God And My Country!
Hon. Gen Katumba Edward Wamala
Minister Of Works And Transport Uganda

www.ngaaliinflightmag.com

CEO’s
NOTE

elcome aboard Uganda Airlines and thank
you for flying with us. I greet you at a time when
numerous countries are starting to get out of the
many restrictions brought about by the pandemic,
and recovery of country economies is starting.
Uganda Airlines has maintained her commitment
to keep flying amidst the hardest of times, experienced
when Uganda went through the second COVID19 wave
and had to close down some vital services. Our mandate
has remained the same, to be a world class airline while
ensuring your safety when you travel with us. As such, our
Standard Operating Procedures are still strictly followed, and
our appeal remains the same to all our passengers.
Our plan for growth remains and we shall continue to open
new destinations as the markets reopen. These include Dubai,
London, Lusaka, Harare, Lubumbashi, Goma, Khartoum, and
many others.
We have since taken delivery of our two A330neo Aircraft and these were successfully added to the Air Operator Certificate
Fleet Listing. This allows us to also carry cargo and we are excited to offer our clients another product.
The A330neos come with a whole lot of features that we chose to make your flying experience a new one. These include the all
new airspace cabin with plush seats that are a symbol of what Uganda is. Passengers will enjoy movies, documentaries or TV shows
from our state-of-the-art Inflight Entertainment System, which was chosen to enhance the experience further. The children haven’t
been forgotten, and games are a part of this entertainment system.
The launch route for the A330neos will be Dubai, and we hope to see you all on these flights to our new destinations. We will
also soon launch our self handling project, which will be phased starting with handling our own operations. Concurrently, we
have embarked on setting up our own Aircraft Maintenance Organisation which must also undergo a 5-phase certification process
before its regularisation. These projects are particularly exciting because they will eventually be revenue earners for the airline, thus
improving our revenue base.
Our commitment remains to serve you in excellence to our destinations, and we look forward to having you aboard these flights
again. Sit back, enjoy and have a pleasant flight.
Jenifer Bamuturaki
Ag. Chief Executive Officer, Uganda Airlines

12 NG'AALI SEPTEMBER - DECEMBER 2021





For aFlloyroaullr ycooFuonrstcarolulncystotioruunrccmtiooanntsetmrriuaaclt,teifrorionaml,mffarootuemrnidafoal,utfinroodnmattoifootnuhtneodratohtoieof.nrotoof.the roof.

www.rowowfiwn.grosgorfionuwgpsw.gcworom.ruopo.ficonmgsgroup.com

BUSINESS TRAVELLER

UGANDA’S
FINTECH
ECOSYSTEM

Collaboration, Interoperability and Regulation
For an Inclusive and Robust Digital Economy

“Tempered by physical law, Uganda is a landlocked between January 2020 and January 2021;
which adds a dash of necessity, country in East Africa, this number correlates to 60.3% of the
chance becomes the creative situated north and total population. The devil is in the
force, the mover and shaker of northwest of Lake Victoria detail, or in this case the numbers, as it
our universe. All the beauty we with a total area of 236,040 sq. km (91,136 is no surprise that Uganda’s Financial
see around us, from galaxies sq. mi). Uganda was conferred the title, Technology (FinTech) sector as at 2016,
to sunflowers, is as a result of Pearl of Africa as if to conversely ratify had a transaction volume of USD 4.7
this collaboration between a collaboration between chaos and billion (17.6 trillion).
chaos and necessity” - Peter M. necessity present in 36,330 sq. km (14,027
Hoffmann, Life’s Ratchet: How mi) of inland fresh water and the 19,000 The role of FinTech in facilitating
Molecular Machines Extract sq. km of picturesque national parks Uganda’s transformation cannot be
Order from Chaos (New York: and wildlife reserves. Her population emphasised enough. Without point
Basic Books, 2012) of 46.3 million people, as at January 2021, of sale machines and online/mobile
boasts an adult literacy rate of 76.53% banking expediting entry into our
and internet penetration of 26.2% (12.16 national parks, tourism would most
million users). likely contribute less than the 3% it
Uganda has over 28.01 million mobile currently contributes to Uganda’s
connections that increased by 1.1 million GDP. Without mobile money, global
remittance and payment platforms (that

16 NG'AALI SEPTEMBER - DECEMBER 2021

BUSINESS TRAVELLER

are also key enablers for e-commerce and Act, 2019 (DPPA) has also increased to which the data subject is party and
ride hailing), Uganda’s GDP would be consumer confidence and participation under 17 (2)(e) of the DPPA 2019, a
less than its current USD 41.27 billion. in FinTech by regulating the use person who processes personal data shall
and transfer of personal data. Data take into account the contractual rights
Without blockchain (and other protection and Fintech inter-are. and obligations between the data subject
distributed ledger technologies) big Personal data is defined as any and processor.
data, cloud computing and Artificial information relating to an identified
Intelligence that are at the core of or identifiable person (a data subject), In sum, FinTech is and will continue
FinTech, developments such as credit and is at the core of FinTech. Without to remain a staple for Uganda’s
scoring and analytics would remain personal data, FinTech algorithms would digital economy. With mobile money
a preserve for the Western World. not be able to perform or conclude penetration beyond 40% of the adult
Without virtual private networks and payment instructions as it would be population in Uganda, traditional
two-factor authentication to secure impossible to distinguish one data banking must continue its collaboration
online payments, Uganda’s digital subject from another without the use of with FinTech. October 4, 1957 saw The
economy would practically be obsolete. personal identifiers. Soviet Union achieve the first successful
launch of a satellite into orbit with
The co-dependence that has caused Data protection revolves around Sputnik 1. The launch precipitated the
Uganda’s FinTech ecosystem to thrive several principles encapsulated by start of a long and expensive space race/
within the Fourth Industrial Revolution notions that a data controller/processor war with the USA that yielded little for
(4IR) is so, first and foremost, because of should be accountable to the data the collective good of the planet save
regulation. Uganda enjoys an evidence- subject for data collected, processed, for furthering an obtrusive political
based approach to regulation and this held or used; data should be collected and ideological agenda. Contrariwise, it
has allowed investment in FinTech in a lawful and fair manner; it should was their mutual collaboration decades
to permeate and integrate with all be adequate, minimal and not excessive, later that supported altruistic space
of Uganda’s key income sectors. The accurate, not misleading and up-to-date, exploration which has invaluably added
regulation of innovation sandboxes for collected transparently, should not be to the fields of astronomy, physics,
example, under the National Payment kept longer than necessary, should be biology and even philosophy.
Systems Act 2020 (NPS), has allowed secure, and overall, should only be used
investors in FinTech to live-test novel for the purpose for which it is collected. Collaboration has and will remain at
innovations that are interoperable the heart of transformation; whether
within the traditional banking industry. The Data Protection regime also this is in nature as with chaos and
allows FinTech domiciled outside necessity, banking as with Fintech
The NPS Act regulates payment Uganda to utilise Standard Contractual and traditional banking, or in space
system operators, payment service Clauses (SCCs) that allow the lawful exploration as with two superpowers.
providers (who among others include cross-border transfer of data into and Without collaboration, necessity and
electronic money issuers), and issuers out of Uganda. SCCs are standard form innovation would remain mutually
of payment instruments. Section 5 of clauses pre-approved by an oversight exclusive.
the Act gives powers to Bank of Uganda data protection agency that govern the
to regulate, supervise and oversee relationship between a data subject and Kenneth Muhangi is a Lecturer of Intellectual
operations of payment systems and this collector/processor in relation to the use Property and ICT Law, Managing Partner at
has, by advertence, opened up previously and transfer of personal data. KTA Advocates, represents Uganda at the 4IR
over-regulated sectors such as banking. Portfolio Communities of the Centre for Fourth
SCCs may enable a payment platform Industrial Revolution of the World Economic
Other laws like the Electronic to exploit advanced cloud computing Forum, External advisor to the Ministry of ICT
Transactions Act, 2011 (ETA) have infrastructure outside of its jurisdiction on innovation and ICT policy development
directly enabled the shift from without fear of reprisal from oversight and is a consultant with the World Bank.
traditional banking by authorising Data Protection Agencies. Without
the use, security, facilitation and SCCs, it would be difficult for many of
regulation of P2P transfers, electronic the world’s leading FinTech payment
communications and other online platforms that leverage personal data as
transactions. The ETA (together with a tool of trade, to operate in multiple
the Electronic Signatures Act, 2011) markets whilst following best practices
also significantly provides for the legal in regards to privacy and data protection.
recognition of electronic transactions,
records and signatures; which guarantees The DPPA does not specifically
effective enforcement of the rights of provide for SCCs but under Section 7 (2)
consumers, if infringed. (C), personal data may be collected and/
or processed in furtherance of a contract
The Data Protection and Privacy

www.ngaaliinflightmag.com 17





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Dr P. K. Grant
Chief Cardiologist & Managing Trustee
Ruby Hall Clinic India

20 NG'AALI SEPTEMBER - DECEMBER 2021



SPORTS

It is a measure of how
far Uganda has come
in Olympic sport that
a bronze medal at
the world’s biggest
games today is seen
as a somewhat modest
achievement. But back in
1996, that wasn’t the case.

WHEN DAVIS
KAMOGA WON

BRONZE

W hen Davis Kamoga surprised himself and the world to cross the games of this magnitude.”
400m final in third place behind Great Britain’s Roger Black and However, Kamoga hoped to break
the legendary American superstar Michael Johnson, it meant all the
world to Uganda. At the time, it had been a whole 16 years since national records, which he duly did,
Uganda last won an Olympic medal – John Mugabi’s at the 1980 Munich Olympics. It from the heats, to the semis, and
had also been 24 years since the last time Uganda achieved a podium finish in athletics eventually to winning that most
– John Akii-Bua’s gold at the 1972 Munich Olympics. unexpected bronze. Without a doubt,
Only three years before, Kamoga’s talent had been spotted by Rtd Major Benjamin it helped that he was not burdened by
Longiross, an athletics coach who saw him play for the National Resistance Army the weight of expectation. He was not
soccer side in Jinja. “Longiross told me that it was probable I could develop a future as under pressure.
an athlete and the rest is history,” he told Ng’aali recently.
As Kamoga recalls, there was no hope when he boarded the plane to Atlanta to This would be the highest profile
represent Uganda. “I didn’t think I stood a chance to win a medal,” the now 53-year- competition of his short athletics career
old says, adding, “My agent, Enrico Gionis, reminded me time and again that the then and rather than subject so much
best I could do was reach the semi-finals. And remember, I was also inexperienced in pressure on his lean shoulders, Kamoga
took everything in stride and set about
to give the best he could offer.

22 NG'AALI SEPTEMBER - DECEMBER 2021

SPORTS
As one of the 2053 athletes taking part
in the Games from the 191 participating
countries, Kamoga assumed a laid-
back approach. Even after posting an
impressive time of 45.56 in the heats, his
desire was to do to the best of his ability.
In the quarterfinals, he went a level
higher by running a faster time of 44.82.
“The truth of the matter is that
Johnson was very scary and even amongst
fellow athletes, there was a mutual
feeling that to ‘win’ the race was to finish
closest to him as opposed to beating
him,” Kamoga explains.
Yet with every qualification, the
Ugandan’s confidence grew. In the semi-
finals on July 28, 1996, Kamoga clocked
44.85 to make the 400m final of his first
Olympic Games. Right there, he was
now within a whisker of history, but for
a country as success-starved in sport as
Uganda was those days, the thought of a
podium finish still felt quite distant.
The 400m final was scheduled for the
following day at the Centennial Olympic
Stadium in downtown Atlanta. Out of
the 62 competitors from 42 nations, the
final was left to eight athletes from only
five countries.
Kamoga was drawn in lane 2 with race
favourite Johnson taking the blocks in
lane 4. The start-list had Alvin Harrison
and Johnson (USA), Roger Black and
Iwan Thomas (Great Britain), Roxbert
Martin and Davian Clarke (Jamaica),
Qatar’s Ibrahim Muftah, and Kamoga.

There is no doubt that KAMOGA LAY DOWN ON THE
Kamoga’s medal was
the biggest post-1986 TARTAN OF THE STADIUM, HIS
international sporting
achievement for the DHCIASHNBINDESRLIENISETPFILN. GEHAEOHNSAUHDIRSJUJAOSTIBNWLEDOEN
country at that moment,
and the passage of THE COUNTRY’S FIRST MEDAL AT
time will not diminish
the significance of his THE WOINRL1D6’SYBEIGAGERSTS.GAMES

accomplishment

www.ngaaliinflightmag.com 23

SPORTS backwards, was all too conspicuous first medal at the world’s biggest games
For the tens of thousands of spectators for the 80,000 spectators who cheered in 16 years.
on the American as he effortlessly
in the Centennial Stadium, the race was claimed gold. Kamoga later received a hero’s
to be a duel for silver. Gold was a given. welcome at Entebbe Airport upon
Johnson already had it in the bag. The As Kamoga later put it, “There was no return and was voted the Uganda Sports
American was at the peak of his prowess shame in losing out to Johnson.” There Press Association Athlete of the Year in
and victory in his favoured 400m was daylight between Johnson and the 1996. Today, he is a businessman living a
distance was beyond question. In fact, he next best athlete, Roger Black. Johnson’s quiet life in Kampala. The father of one
went on to win not only 400m gold but gold would come in a new Olympic daughter lives in Mpererwe, a Kampala
also 200m; the latter achieved in a world Record of 43.49, with Black crossing the suburb, from where he opted to take a
record time. line almost one full second later in 44.41. peripheral seat in matters of athletics.

For Kamoga, being on the starting History will always record Kamoga as The soft-spoken legend suffered
blocks of the world’s 8 best quarter a bronze medal winner at the Atlanta personal tragedy after the loss of his
milers was already a sizable achievement. ’96 Olympics but it took a superhuman father, mother and sister in recent
Because of Johnson headlining the race, final kick on the home stretch for him to times and has chosen to live a life out
the event was a special one. There was edge out America’s Alvin Harrison. The of the limelight for peace of mind. In
a cumulative audience of hundreds Ugandan used every sinew of his muscles 2018, he met President Yoweri Museveni
of millions of global viewers tuned in to clock a time of 44.53 to beat Harrison at State House Entebbe and was
for the race. who crossed in 44.62. promised a ‘handshake’, a term to mean
a reward from the Government for
The Stadium was buzzing with Johnson squatted and took in the his outstanding service to the country,
expectation. The conditions were ideal moment before hundreds of camera thanks to his Atlanta bronze. It has not
for a perfect race and all eight finalists flashes as chants of ‘USA, USA, USA’ yet come through, but Kamoga remains
were in the best shape of their lives. rang in the stadium. Black was visibly optimistic that the Head of State will
Kamoga wore a red kit with shades of happy to finish second to Johnson, come good on his word sooner rather
the Uganda flag on the side. Johnson considering that no one expected him to than later.
wore traditional US colours. upstage the great American.
“He wrote to me in 1996 when I won
When the starting gun was fired, it Kamoga lay down on the tartan of that medal. I still have that letter in my
was predictably Johnson who got off the stadium, his chin resting on his archives and I must say I felt proud and
best. He ran the first bend brilliantly, joined hands in pleasurable disbelief. honoured to receive it. I am waiting
and by the 200m mark, was already in It evidently took a while for the patiently and I know he will come
absolute control of the race. By the 250m achievement to sink in. He had just through,” he says.
mark, he was racing against the clock. won Uganda’s second athletics medal
Johnson’s unique running stance, with in Olympic history and the country’s There is no doubt that Kamoga’s medal
his chest pushed outwards and his arms was the biggest post-1986 international
sporting achievement for the country at
that moment, and the passage of time
will not diminish the significance of his
accomplishment.

Kamoga is just one of nine Ugandans
to have won an Olympic medal,
the others being Akii-Bua, Eridadi
Mukwanga, Leo Rwabogo, Mugabi,
Stephen Kiprotich, Joshua Cheptegei,
Jacob Kiplimo, and recently, Peruth
Chemutai.

Left: The now 53-year-old
Kamoga (right) poses with
the writer, Mark Namanya

24 NG'AALI SEPTEMBER - DECEMBER 2021



SPORTS

26 NG'AALI SEPTEMBER - DECEMBER 2021

SPORTS

Words by Mark Namanya

A t the 1964 Commonwealth Games in Apia, Samoa,
Olympics in the where she won silver in the 1500m and
Japanese capital, 3000m steeplechase. Her confidence
Mary Musani grew admirably, but so too did her
became Uganda’s experience and exposure.
first female to
participate at The soft-spoken youngster had
the world’s biggest games after she promised that she would return from
represented the country in the 80m Tokyo with a medal, but few took her
hurdles. 57 years later, the Olympics words seriously. And in the 3000m
returned to Tokyo and more history was steeplechase, Chemutai showed amazing
written when Peruth Chemutai became perfection in clearing the water hurdle
the first Ugandan woman to win a enroute to Uganda’s first gold in Tokyo,
medal at the Olympics. Except that it a milestone achievement.
wasn’t just a medal; it was gold.
Chemutai did not just win gold; she For her gold, President Yoweri
destroyed the field in dominant fashion Museveni rewarded her with a brand
to win the 3000m steeplechase finishing new Mitsubishi Pajero SUV and has
ahead of Hyvin Kiyeng and America’s promised to build a house for her
Courtney Frerichs. parents. The President made similar
The 22-year-old is the toast of the offers to Uganda’s other two medalists
nation but her journey to the top has from Tokyo – Joshua Cheptegei and
not been without pitfalls. She dropped Jacob Kiplimo.
out of school in Senior One at Tulel
Secondary School because her parents, And while the latter two did very
Moses Isaya and Sophie Chebet, couldn’t well at the Games, with Kiplimo
afford the school fees. bagging bronze in the men’s 10000m
But instead of wallowing in self-pity, and Cheptegei silver and gold in the
the young Chemutai made the career 10000 and 5000m respectively, it was
decision to embark on a future in Chemutai’s gold that threw the country
athletics. The second-born in a family into joyous pandemonium.
of 12 children, she was later recruited
into Uganda Police Force in 2015 during How she handles her new-found
the reign of Gen. Kale Kayihura, who fame will determine her athletics
prioritised sports among the forces. future. If she stays humble, hardworking
Her first taste of success was at the and dedicated to the sport that has
transformed her fortunes tenfold,
Chemutai has what it takes to dominate
the 3000m steeplechase race for future
Olympics editions.

www.ngaaliinflightmag.com 27

I recently travelled to Ziwa Rhino Sanctuary in Nakasongola to
track the 33 Southern White Rhinos that have made this corner of

central Uganda so popular with visitors,
writes Charlotte Beauvoisin.

28 NG'AALI SEPTEMBER - DECEMBER 2021

DESTINATION UGANDA

Iconfess it’s been a few years since
my last visit. On that occasion, I was
looking after a wedding party of 27
guests. The logistics of shepherding
a big group of partygoers meant that
we left Kampala late and the rhinos
were all snoozing under the trees by
the time we arrived for our tracking adventure.

Rhinos are usually best seen at the start or
end of the day. As the day heats up, they retire
to the shade underneath the bush. On my recent
visit, the weather was on our side. The skies may

have been grey but the cool temperatures
meant the rhinos were active
throughout our time with them. This
was going to be my lucky day.

My Rhino Tracking Experience

Despite many years in Uganda, rhinos
are not a species that I have become
very familiar with. Two Uganda
Wildlife Authority rangers - Khalid and
Jackson, were to change all that for me.
Gregarious starlings and raucous
hornbills were the background sounds
to a 10-minute briefing about the wide
range of animals that live on the 60 square-
kilometre former cattle ranch. I came for
rhinos but sensed there was going to be so
much more.
My ranger guides explained how, in addition
to the flagship species of southern white
rhinoceros, the sanctuary harbours seven species
of antelope: Uganda kob, bushbuck, Bohor reedbuck,
oribi, common grey duiker, waterbuck and the shy
sitatunga.
I was intrigued to learn that residents include iconic
species such as the aardvark (seen three times by one ranger),
porcupine, and the honey badger. Ziwa’s 350 bird species include
the Shoebill (which you have a 75% chance of seeing on the Shoebill
Canoe Ride through the papyrus swamp of Lugogo that borders
Kafu River). Leopards, genets, African golden cats and serval cats
are some of the furry felines; hippos are resident in the swamps and
crocodiles live in the ‘valley dams’ (important watering holes for the
sanctuary’s wildlife).
As the briefing continued, I watched young kobs grazing in the
woodland close to the main compound. Warthogs trotted through the
bush and guinea fowls bathed in dusty hollows.

www.ngaaliinflightmag.com 29

DESTINATION UGANDA Where to stay
Ziwa has a range of accommodation that
Experience starts at 12 USD a night for camping (bed
only), to 35 USD per night (full board). Other
Ziwa’s terrain is flat, making it an options include a dormitory, budget rooms
easy tracking experience; however, and a guesthouse, all of which are being
closed shoes are recommended to avoid refurbished as I write. Prices depend on
the occasional thorn. The rhinos are whether you opt for breakfast only, bed
constantly monitored so our rangers and breakfast, or other meal plan options.
were sure we would see them during our (Note that East Africans and expats pay
one hour tracking on foot. Within a few advertised rates, Ugandans pay half price).
minutes, we were in the socially distanced Upmarket accommodation is 5km away at
company of mother Wabwire and her Amuka Lodge.
daughter, Anywar.
They barely noticed us and carried on grazing. A Cost of tracking the rhinos at
rhino needs to eat a whopping 80 to 100 kilograms Ziwa
of grass every day, so it’s hardly surprising that they In 2021, adults (over 13 years) pay:
were otherwise occupied! A keen sense of smell and
sharp hearing make up for rhinos’ poor eyesight. We knew • Ugandan citizen 30,000 UGX; East
whenever we were being observed as Wabwire’s ears would
point in our direction, scanning for sound. (I felt quite African resident 40 USD; international
relaxed until I saw how alert she was! Both ears were pointing tourist (foreign non-resident) 50 USD. The
directly at us and she let out a snort - was she going to move entry fees for children (aged 6 to 12) are:
towards us?)
Anywar is named in tribute to Jane Adong Anywar, one of • Ugandan citizen 10,000 UGX. East
the founding members of Rhino Fund Uganda. I was touched to
be tracking this young rhino, named after a great lady I once had African resident 20 USD; international
the honour of working with. tourist (foreign non-resident) 25 USD.
“The young rhinos love playing, particularly if they are in a group. They
enjoy sliding off the termite mounds after the rains, rolling in the mud, and Where is Ziwa?
scratching themselves on trees,” said Khalid. “Rhinos like to eat short grass Ziwa Rhino Sanctuary is in Nakasongola
because their heads are so heavy they can’t hold them up for long.” The short near the bridge that crosses River
grass around the compound is particularly popular with the rhinos. “On Kafu. It is well signposted along the
occasions, we have seen half the sanctuary’s population taking a nap next to Kampala-Gulu road.
the reception,” he added. Imagine seeing that!
White rhinos are not as aggressive as black rhinos. “We wouldn’t get out of Why visit Ziwa?
the vehicle if these were black rhinos,” the rangers laughed nervously. That Ziwa has gained popularity with safari
said, white rhinos can run 40 to 45 miles per hour. “They can only run at visitors because it ticks all the boxes: not
this speed for short distances, (but you wouldn’t want to chance it!). Like only is the sanctuary an interesting spot for
most animals, rhinos are unlikely to attack humans unless they are injured or a lunch break, but an hour’s tracking is a
nursing their young,” Jackson added. wonderful way to stretch your legs before
Khalid and Jackson have worked with Ziwa’s rhinos for several years. My heading to Murchison Falls in search of the
hour in the company of these knowledgeable rangers passed quickly as they other Big Five animals.
answered question after question about the rhinos and their habitat. Their
passion for the prehistoric-looking animals was contagious. Ugandan residents with more time on
We watched as one, two and then a whole flock of Piapiac birds landed their hands can spend a leisurely two or
on the rhinos to pick insects from the animals’ backs. Anywar kicked his three days exploring the sanctuary’s other
heels and the birds flew up into the air. A young oribi rested in the shade of attractions, which include nature walks,
a nearby Cassia; the tree’s bright yellow blooms added a welcome touch of bird-watching, floating in the swamp in
colour to a dull day. The calls of waterbirds such as Lapwings and a Kingfisher search of the shoebills, or a night walk (with
reminded us how close we were to the swamp. an armed ranger).
When I picked out a birdsong that I did not recognise, my guides were
quick to identify it as a White-crested Turaco. I was thrilled to realise that not Are you looking for a peaceful – and
only was I tracking rhinos, I was also adding new birds to my life list. I now inexpensive - wildlife experience? Then
have many reasons to return to Ziwa: not only do I want to learn more about make Ziwa your next stop!
rhinos, but I am determined to see more of the sanctuary’s birds (and an
aardvark, if you please!)

30 NG'AALI SEPTEMBER - DECEMBER 2021



DESTINATION UGANDA

SIPI
THE
GLORIOUS

TRIPLE
FALLS

DESTINATION UGANDA

T he spectacular Sipi Falls most popular walking trail, only 20
sit at the foothills of Mt. minutes each way, leads from behind the
Elgon in Eastern Uganda, in post office in Sipi trading centre to the
Kapchorwa. The falls were base of the main waterfall. Hikes around
formed by the Sipi River as it the falls offer stunning views of the
cascades downhill from the upper slopes Karamoja plains, Lake Kyoga, and the
of Mt. Elgon into the Kyoga Basin. slopes of Mt. Elgon.

Regarded as a romantic place, the falls If you choose, you can walk for
are a series of three prominent waterfalls, another 20 to 30 minutes to reach a
with the longest dropping as high as cluster of caves on the cliff above the
100m. The second waterfall drops 75m river. The largest cave extends for about
below and has upper cascades before 125m into the rock face, and contains
the plunge. The third waterfall measures rich mineral salt deposits and traces
85m and is tall and columnar. of petrified wood. In the nearby caves,
you’ll find the Nyero rock paintings,
The mini rainbow that forms when which are believed to date back to the
they are hit by the morning sun is year 1250 and are considered the most
something for everyone to look forward important rock art in Uganda.
to. Amazingly, the entire landscape is
dotted with more than 300 other ‘smaller’ Walking back to the trading centre
waterfalls. The falls have increasingly along the main road, you’ll pass the top
become a huge head turner for both of the main waterfall, as well as Sipi
foreign and local tourists. The misty Mise Cave, an important local shrine set
fog created as the water drops with within a small forest-fringed cavern.
great strength and deep rumbling, the
suspenseful hike to the top of the falls The falls are also popular for the cool
and the view it provides of the coffee weather. Make sure to pack a swimming
plantations and surrounding Kapchorwa costume, as the plunge at the bottom
plains, and the endless photo-worthy is large enough to swim in and is said
spots, are some of the reasons why. to be a healing experience. Other
popular activities around Sipi falls are
With a cooler climate than most of mountain biking on Elgon, and for keen
the country, the area is a great place to birdwatchers, there are over 275 species
unwind and relax away from the hustle of birds. You can catch some mountain
and bustle of the towns and cities. trout with the help of a guide, and take
Being on the foothills of Mt. Elgon, Sipi cultural excursions with the Gishu and
offers a number of alternative activities. Sabiny of the area.
Abseiling is the art of descending
rock and slopes using a friction device Mount Elgon National Park is only
attached to your harness. At Sipi Falls, 34 kilometres from Sipi Falls. There
abseiling descents can be organised at is a lot of wildlife like leopards, bush
the Chebonet Falls and are made up of pigs, bushbucks, forest hogs, elephants,
15 sport climbing routes ranging from buffaloes, Defassa waterbuck, spotted
10m – 35m. hyenas, black and white colobus,
baboons, Vervet monkeys, Red-tailed
Another popular activity is coffee monkeys among others.
tours. The Sipi Falls area is particularly
famous for locally grown Bugisu Arabica Individuals can organise trips through
coffee. On coffee tours, you will be the Uganda Wildlife Authority or local
walked through the process of picking private operators, as it is more-or-less
coffee berries, shelling them, grinding mandatory to take a guide on these
them in a traditional mortar and pestle, walks and hikes. The going rate is around
roasting them on fire and to top it 7 – 10 USD per person depending on
off, a fresh cup of coffee for all your the duration of the walk and where
hard work! you arrange it. There’s a range of
accommodation which varies in price,
The Sipi Falls area is also the starting and most lodgings tend to look out onto
point for many hikes up Mt. Elgon. The the falls.

www.ngaaliinflightmag.com 33

DESTINATION UGANDA AKE

Uganda’s

34 NG'AALI SEPTEMBER - DECEMBER 2021

DESTINATION UGANDA
Lake Bunyonyi lies in south western Uganda between Kisoro and Kabale. With a
depth of about 900m (3,000ft), it is believed to be the second-deepest lake in Africa after
Tanganyika. Bunyonyi means ‘place of small birds’, giving tribute to the varied birdlife
that lives along the shores and on the small islands of the lake itself.
The lake is framed by lush, green-terraced hills that reach a height of 2,200-2,478m, but
it’s the 29 islands of various shapes and sizes scattered across the water that make it the
loveliest lake in Uganda. A magical place, it has a wide selection of hotels and camps
to stay on distant islands. Best of all – unlike many lakes in East Africa – Bunyonyi is
bilharzia, crocodile and hippo free, and so its crystal-clear waters are all yours to swim in.
Lake Bunyonyi has over 200 bird species, making it ideal for bird enthusiasts. Aside
from birdwatching, there are several activities to enjoy such as swimming, canoeing, boat
riding, hiking, biking and nature walks. For cultural adventures, one can visit the village
of Bufuka for Batwa and Bakiga experiences.

www.ngaaliinflightmag.com 35

DESTINATIOHNUiGAanNoDA ndtevhyeenmtPouoernaeinrslg
Yes, many a dictionary will define the word

honeymoon as a trip twirling with experience,

excitement and romantic escapes! Destination

Big 5 on the other hand is defined as a getaway of

Safaris At significant status and importance. Well, when

Kidepo Valley combined, these two words perfectly describe

National Park Uganda, a multi-cultural gem and beloved
At this semi-arid park
found in the north eastern honeymoon destination. Ng’aali brings you six

corner of Uganda, your dream honeymoon adventures to remember.
Words by Solomon Oleny
of seeing the Big 5 will come to
life with promising encounters of 77
mammal species and 475 bird species.
You can brace yourself for numerous
predators like lions, leopards, side-
striped jackals, black backed jackals,
and bat eared foxes. On the other hand,
herbivores include Rothschild giraffes, mountain ranges in the area, you might
Uganda kobs, buffaloes, topi, zebras, confuse them for tiny ants. They seem so
Jackson’s hartebeests, oribi, elands and small. Should you opt for a night game
klipspringers. drive, you might come across a pack of
To the extreme north of the park, you hyenas ganging up to chase lions away
will find a hot spring that discharges from a fresh kill.
hundreds of litres of warm water a
day. Kidepo is really awe-inspiring and What to know
multicoloured! Good accommodation in the park ranges
During a game drive in this 1,442km from 50 - 500 USD full board, depending
wildlife estate, one gets to see the on whether you want budget or luxury.
biggest herds of Cape buffaloes in East
Africa. The park has over 20,000 of them. For details about the park fees for
As you watch them from one of the activities, visit www.ugandawildlife.org

36 NG'AALI SEPTEMBER - DECEMBER 2021

DESTINATION UGANDA

Cultural Immersion At people and their long horned species of
Emburara Farm Lodge cattle. Their passion, enthusiasm and
Emburara is a great stop-over for enjoyment of the traditional dances is
anyone visiting Bwindi National Park. infectious.
It is found in Mbarara, a hilly district
in Western Uganda that is three Guests can freely participate in the
hours’ drive from Bwindi. This grand making of traditional dishes and later
countryside ranch is a fully-fledged join in the feast. Most of the dishes are
cultural village that features luxurious flavoured with fresh dairy products such
eco-lodges. Here, guests are introduced as eshabwe, a ghee infused sauce.
to the history and traditions of ancient
Ankole Kingdom through music, dance, Guests then crown their day with
and traditional food. You will get to herd a peaceful night in eco-friendly huts
cattle, milk them, take them to the well, whose design dates back to the 16th
and make a fire in their kraal at nightfall, century, with their cozy interior and
to ward off mosquitoes and keep the warm lighting.
cows warm. What to know
Cost: The average price for a full board
At night, a captivating cultural troop stay per night is 173 USD for a double.
puts up an energetic and engaging show, For more details, visit
regaling guests with folklore and skits www.emburarafarmlodge.com
about the migration of the Ankole

Hot Air Balloon Safaris In Murchison Falls
National Park
You won’t regret casting your fate to the wind in this
sightseeing tour of Uganda’s biggest National Park. From
the comfort of a spacious basket which can accommodate
up to six people, adventurers will have a bird’s eye view
of thousands of wildlife as you float silently above lush
savannahs and thunderous waterfalls, 10,000 feet above
sea level.

From start to finish, you will be in the safe hands of a
seasoned captain with a wealth of information about the
different geological features like canyons, rift valleys, lakes
and different rock formations.

Through binoculars, lions can be seen teaming up to
besiege target prey such as Uganda kobs. You might even hear
elephants trumpeting from more than 100 metres below. It is
amazing how tiny they look from up here, or how short the
Rothschild giraffes seem.

The clear blue skies provide enough light for viewing
one of the most thunderous rapids on the River Nile, the
Murchison Falls.

What to know
Cost: The adventure costs 380 USD per person, and children
below 12 pay half the cost. Children under six are not allowed.

For details, visit www.ugandawildlife.org

www.ngaaliinflightmag.com 37

DESTINATION UGANDA
White Water Rafting On
The World’s Longest River
- The Nile
You can’t miss this awesome dose of
adrenaline, a top thrill in Uganda’s
adventure capital, Jinja. It entails
overriding 8 major rapids of the river
that are well spaced over a scenic 24
kilometre stretch. Regardless of whether
you choose the half or full day excursion,
you will leave with both physical and
emotional rewards. If you are feeling
stressed, the rollercoaster ride will
rejuvenate you.

Over 1,000 people, some of whom
don’t know how to swim, have safely
rafted since it began over 20 years ago.
This is partly because safety is the main
concern of the rafting agencies and
the standards of their equipment are
second to none.

Having rafted countless times before,
the safety crews of the rafting agencies
know the river very well and will keep
you safe throughout. The rapids are big
but prior to confronting each, rafters are
consulted on which path to take.
What to know
The adventure costs between 100 - 250
USD depending on whether you want a
half or full day excursion.

Waterfront Resorts
If you are looking for waterfront resorts that are not crowded,
Lake Bunyonyi and Lake Mutanda are a great choice. Found
in south western Uganda, both of these scenic crater lakes are
surrounded by cozy resorts that aim to enchant. One such resort
is Lake Mulehe Safari Lodge, on the shores of Lake Mutanda, an
eco-friendly destination of diversity, energy and culture. While
the walls were built using blocks of solid volcanic ash, the
furniture is made of finely furnished tree planks, and all the décor
and architectural design are themed along eco-friendliness, built
from locally available materials creatively fashioned to impress.
The fresh air at the palm-dotted beach makes this an excellent
place to unwind.
What to know
Cost: A full board stay costs 170 - 450 USD.
For details, visit www.lakemulehesafarilodge.com

38 NG'AALI SEPTEMBER - DECEMBER 2021

DESTINATION UGANDA
Quad Biking In Lake Mburo National Park
Lying 1,220m-1,828m above sea level, this park in Western
Uganda is one of the country’s top 3 birdwatching havens
with a recorded 350 species.

It has a wonderful combination of tranquil lakes,
thriving papyrus jungles, endless grassland and pristine
woodland, with large numbers of zebras and over
5000 giraffes.

Watching them cross from one side of the park to the
other is like witnessing a live migration. The energy, the
sound and the stampede they cause is such a National
Geographic spectacle. You will love every minute of it on
your quad bike as this offers one a thrilling opportunity to
get so close to the animals without worrying about being
attacked. Guests are always in the company of an armed
ranger-guide. Guests get to encounter a dizzying range of
zebras, bushbucks, buffaloes and topi.
What to know
Cost: 40 USD; for details, visit www.atadventures.com

www.ngaaliinflightmag.com 39

DESTINATION ZANZIBAR

PRISON
ISLAND

The Only Prison
Where You Might Enjoy

Getting Arrested

40 NG'AALI SEPTEMBER - DECEMBER 2021

DESTINATION ZANZIBAR

Prison Island Zanzibar, also Changuu Island
known as Changuu Island, lies northwest of
is a small island spreading Stone Town, Unguja,
across 5.6 Km. Overcoming its and is about 800m long and
turbulent history, it has become 230m wide at its broadest point.
a popular holiday destination It was uninhabited until the 1860s when the first
as a government owned tourist Sultan of Zanzibar, Majid bin Said, gave it to two
resort and is home to a plethora Arabs who used it as a prison for rebellious slaves
of endangered Aldabra giant prior to shipping them abroad or selling them at the
tortoises. slave market in Zanzibar’s Stone Town.
When Zanzibar became a British protectorate in 1891,
the British First Minister, Lloyd Mathews, purchased
Changuu from its Arab owners on behalf of the Zanzibar
government in 1893 with the intention of building a prison
upon it. Despite building the prison, the facility never housed
prisoners.
The British authorities were concerned by the risk of disease
epidemics affecting Stone Town, then East Africa’s main port. To
combat this threat, Changuu was turned into a quarantine island
serving all the British territories in East Africa. The old prison was
converted into a hospital and quarantine cases were taken from

the ships and monitored here for about two weeks before
being allowed to progress with their journey. The main disease

monitored was Yellow Fever.
However, ships typically only arrived in East Africa during
the period running from December to March, so the island
was usually empty of quarantine cases for a large part of the
year. During the empty period, the island became a popular
leisure resort for Europeans and local residents of Zanzibar.
A building, known as the European Bungalow, was built in
the late 1890s to cater for the holidaymakers, although
the number of visitors had to be limited because the
only freshwater on the island was rainwater stored in
underground tanks.
In 1919, the British governor of Seychelles sent a gift

of four giant Aldabra tortoises to Changuu from the island of Aldabra. The
tortoises bred quickly and by 1955, they numbered about 200. However,
people began to steal them for sale abroad as pets or for food, and their
numbers dropped rapidly. By 1988, there were about 100 tortoises, fifty in
1990 and just seven by 1996.

A further 80 hatchlings were taken to the island in 1996 to increase
the numbers but 40 of them vanished. The Zanzibar government, with
assistance from the World Society for the Protection of Animals (Now
known as World Animal Protection) built a large compound for the
protection of the animals and by 2000, numbers had recovered to 17
adults, 50 juveniles and 90 hatchlings.

The species is now considered vulnerable and has been placed on
the IUCN Red List by the International Union for Conservation of
Nature. More tortoises, mainly juveniles, continue to be brought to

www.ngaaliinflightmag.com 41

DESTINATION ZANZIBAR

the island from other locations for conservation. Above:
When the island lost its use as a quarantine station, it At the tortoises’
reserve, you will
remained in the ownership of the government, which admire, pet, and
converted the quarantine buildings into a guesthouse that even feed these
has since been reopened as a hotel by a private company. At magnificent, ancient,
Changuu Island Resort, there are 15 holiday cottages, a tennis peaceful creatures,
court, swimming pool and library, and the old European some of which
Bungalow has been turned into a restaurant named after weigh as much as
Mathews. Freshwater is transported to the island via an 200 kilograms
underwater pipe from the Zanzibar mainland.

Prison Island is a beautiful and enchanting place to visit.
Visitors reach the island by motor boat and it takes 30 minutes.
Arriving on the island, there is a mysterious rustic wooden
bridge that hovers a few metres above
the water, jetting out into the sea. The
water here is crystal-clear and cerulean
blue, and often changes to a magical
turquoise blue.

There are plenty of fun activities to
do at Prison Island, one of which is
snorkelling around the coastline. The
waters are great fun to swim in and you
can still enjoy some spectacular marine
life. If you would like to snorkel, the
boat will take you a few metres offshore
where you can disembark into deeper
water with a small area of coral.

42 NG'AALI SEPTEMBER - DECEMBER 2021

DESTINATION ZANZIBAR

Right:
The island’s beautiful

crystaline waters
have made it
a favourite for
tourists from

allover the world

At the tortoises’ reserve, you will admire, pet, and even feed these magnificent,
ancient, peaceful creatures, some of which weigh as much as 200 kilograms. Many
people are tempted to ride these beautiful giants, but while it may have been
permitted a few years ago, it is a strict no-no now. The tortoises are very old, with
the eldest aged over 192 years. Some others are around 150 years old. There is also
a nursery for baby tortoises of different ages, which is a great treat especially
for children.

It wouldn’t be a complete day at Prison Island if you didn’t visit the ruins which
once acted as a prison for the slaves and later the sick. While the structures are now
weathered by the passing of time, they are still an interesting feature on the island.

After your activities, visit the lovely resort, where you’ll be able to relax and
enjoy magnificent views of the island’s beaches and beautiful crystaline waters.
And if you want to make the most of your time, you can book a room and
sleep over.

Uganda Airlines flies to Zanzibar thrice a week.

How to get to Prison Island
• A boat ride costs between 30 and 40 USD for a round trip. If you are travelling as

a group, you’ll be pleased to know that the boats are large enough to carry up to
10 individuals and you can take advantage of this to share the cost.

• There is a 4 USD island entrance fee, and 2 USD for a snorkel rental. Most people

just go for a couple of hours, but if you would like to spend the night, check out
Changuu Private Island Resort.

• Most hotels or guesthouses on the mainland of Zanzibar will offer package deals

for taking a half day excursion to Prison Island, offering an all-inclusive price.
Please do some asking around.

www.ngaaliinflightmag.com 43

DESTINATION LONDON

The Callanish Stones of

SCOT

R ows of monoliths stretch outward from this some sort of astronomical observatory or a celestial calendar.
stone circle, forming a sort of rudimentary As with many prehistoric creations, the Callanish Stones are
cross. A chambered tomb is nestled within
the circle, as if being guarded by the rich with legends and lore. One bit of local lore says the stones
stones. For thousands of years, people have are petrified giants turned into stone for refusing to convert
been drawn to the mysterious 12-foot- to Christianity. Another tale tells of a magic white cow that
tall chunks of Lewisian Gneiss, which have yet to fully reveal appeared at the site to save the islanders from starvation.
their secrets.
Neolithic people erected the Callanish Stones about 5,000 They’re older than the Stonehenge monument of Salisbury,
years ago. Though the stones served as a hub for ritual activities but unlike the world-famous megalithic construction, the
for at least a millennium, their exact purpose has been Callanish Stones are accessible to the public. Those who are
lost to history. The most prevalent theory, based on recent drawn to their ancient mysteries can freely wander among the
archaeological excavations, holds that the megaliths acted as stones and even touch the towering monoliths. Fans of the
popular TV series, Outlander, may be particularly interested
in laying their hands upon the stones - according to the

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DESTINATION LONDON

LAND

series’ fandom, the TV version of the books used the Callanish Stones as inspiration for the 45
fictional Craigh na Dun.

Visiting the stones is an enchanting experience regardless of the season. In the summer,
they stand stoically beneath a sun that just barely sets, and in the darker months, the
Northern Lights illuminate the night sky above them in a blaze of purple, green, and red hues.
Know Before You Go
You can visit the stones at any time at no cost. The visitor centre cafe is open every day except
Sunday, and its hours vary depending on the season. The stones are just over a 10-minute
drive from Dun Carloway, another one of the island’s many ancient attractions.
For more information, visit
https://www.historicenvironment.scot/visit-a-place/places/calanais-standing-stones

Uganda Airlines will commence flights to Heathrow, London, early 2022.

www.ngaaliinflightmag.com

DESTINATION DUBAI

A HERITAGE
WALK IN

Al FahidiOLD DUBAI’S

HISTORICAL NEIGHBOURHOOD

Ever wondered where Dubai has its roots? Where the Emirati traditions come from? Where it all
started? Take a deep dive into Dubai’s history and delve into the city’s heritage. Explore what early life
was like in this desert trading town. It’s a great way to learn about the traditions of Dubai.

Walking tour - Al Fahidi 1 Tea and tales at
Arabian Tea House
Discover Dubai’s cultural gems wandering through the winding alleyways of Al Fahidi. Start your walking tour at the Arabian
Follow in the footsteps of Dubai’s early settlers. This culture-themed walking tour will Tea House on Al Fahidi Street in Bur
take you around Al Fahidi Historical Neighbourhood and Dubai Creek. Here’s what Dubai. Fuel up with a cup of local karak
to know before you start. chai, a strong tea blend with a dash
• Start point: Al Fahidi Street in Bur Dubai of milk and spices. Turn left to enter
• End point: Radisson Blu Hotel Dubai Deira Creek the labyrinthine lanes at Al Fahidi
• Estimated duration: Three to five hours Historical Neighbourhood.
• Best time to walk: Morning and early afternoon
• Directions to starting point: The easiest way is by taxi. Hail one from any The district showcases the traditional
way of life in Dubai from the mid
roadside or book one by calling +971 4 208 0808. 19th Century until the 1970s. Wander
• Major landmarks: Arabian Tea House, SMCCU, XVA Gallery, Textile Souk, through its narrow lanes to discover
creative art spaces, museums and cafés
Gold Souk, Spice Souk, Radisson Blu Hotel Dubai Deira Creek, and Al housed in converted homes made from
Shindagha. gypsum, coral and limestone. Look up to
spot buildings topped with distinctive
wind towers.

Top tips:

Bring a water bottle and a hat. Wear a long-sleeved shirt or bring a light cotton
scarf while exploring the historic areas. Carry cash if you plan on shopping at the
city’s souks.

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DESTINATION DUBAI

2 Culture 101 at SMCCU 3 History is uncovered 4 Abra Ride: Past to
Continue in the direction of Dubai at Al Shindagha present at Dubai Creek
Creek towards Al Musallah Road to Turn left towards Ali Bin Abi Taleb Walk back towards 3A Street to the Bur
reach Sheikh Mohammed Centre for Street and follow the winding path to Dubai Abra Station by Dubai Creek.
Cultural Understanding (SMCCU). the Textile Souk, reminiscent of Dubai’s This waterway continues to reflect
With the aim of offering visitors a historic trading past. Walk along the Dubai’s historic roots, back when early
greater understanding of local culture warren of small shops and stalls and settlers relied on its waters for their
and traditions, SMCCU is often the first engage in friendly bartering for colourful livelihood. Visitors can queue for a
port of call for most visitors. The centre fabrics and souvenirs. short trip across the Creek to Deira on
offers a wealth of information and also traditional wooden boats, known as
hosts a full schedule of activities. Sign up Once you’re done shopping, turn right abras, for just 1 AED.
for a traditional Emirati breakfast, lunch onto 34th Street and follow 3A Street The Dubai Creek’s waterway
or dinner, or simply wander around and to reach Al Shindagha Museum and was recently extended as part of
admire the venue, located in a carefully learn more about the city’s maritime an ambitious 3.2km canal project.
restored wind tower house. history in evocative detail. Next door Marking a new era in the city’s urban
is the Perfume House, where visitors transformation, the Dubai Water Canal
Turn left to follow the sandy lane can discover the legacy of Emirati winds its way from the creek to the
buttressing the simple but elegant perfumery. Also nearby is the Saruq Al Arabian Gulf through Business Bay.
Diwan Mosque, part of the Ruler’s Court Hadid museum, which displays a range Return another day to follow this scenic
complex, and stop by XVA Art Hotel. of artefacts unearthed from a centuries- route onboard the Dubai Ferry.
The Instagram-worthy space features a old archaeological site in the depths
stunning courtyard and contemporary of the desert. Walk among some of the
art gallery, as well as a popular reclaimed relics, an impressive haul of
vegetarian cafe. over 900 objects discovered from the site.

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DESTINATION DUBAI

5 The Gold Souk: Authentic 6 Spice trails at Deira 7 Try Emirati flavours at
souk shopping Spice Souk Radisson Blu Deira
A short, breezy ride later, and you’re Retrace your steps to the Spice Souk. Turn left to Old Baladiya Street to
on the other side of Dubai Creek. The souk is easy to find – just turn reach Baniyas Road and admire views
Cross Baniyas Road and follow Old Al right onto Baniyas Road and follow of the creek and traditional dhows, as
Baladiya Street for one kilometre before the aroma of cardamom, turmeric, you pass the iconic Deira Twin Towers.
turning right into the original Gold dried lemons and rose petals. The spice Walk towards Radisson Blu Hotel,
Souk district, where all that glitters market’s alleys feature an array of local Dubai Deira Creek – this Old Dubai
is definitely gold. Haggle with the vendors and storefronts piled high with accommodation first opened in 1975 and
shopkeepers over delicate handcrafted bulging sacks of spices. Interacting is the city’s first five-star hotel.
pieces and ornate wedding jewellery sets with the vendors is part of the fun, and
or better yet, craft your own bespoke friendly bargaining is often welcomed After a long day of exploring, treat
jewels. The vendors here are some of with a smile. yourself to a traditional Emirati
the best in the business and can offer meal at the hotel’s signature Aseelah
competitive rates. With a little more Restaurant. Try the hearty lamb harees
time on your hands, follow your nose to where coarsely-ground wheat is mixed
the Perfume Souk for a quick lesson in with tender meat and spices, and the
oud and bakhoor. fish machboos that sees locally-caught
sustainable fish served with Arabic rice.

Uganda Airlines starts flights to Dubai in
October 2021

| For more tours, go to www.visitdubai.com |

48 NG'AALI SEPTEMBER - DECEMBER 2021

DESTINATION KINSHASA

Kinshasa Is A City Of

Contrasts And Vibrancy

Kinshasa is the third largest city on the African continent, with a Stay @ Fleuve Congo Hotel
population of more than 15 million people. It is a large commercial Offering the perfect fusion of European
centre with a booming business district. This vibrant city sits on the luxury and Congolese hospitality, it is
southern banks of the immense Congo River, directly overlooking the positioned in the CBD. Within walking
city of Brazzaville, the capital of the Republic of Congo. The two cities are the only distance of the Presidential Palace, it is
two capitals in the world that face each other this way. the only hotel built on the banks of the
Kinshasa is a city of contrasts and offers a great introduction to Congolese life. Majestic Fleuve Congo.
Large and chaotic, there are numerous experiences to be had, but the bustle and
infectious vibe means just walking the streets and watching the world go by can be an
experience in itself.
To the east of the city, the river divides and meanders through small islands, but just
to the west, one finds rocky rapids, giving the Congo both a peaceful and somewhat
dangerous character. The city’s botanical gardens are a lovely place to have a stroll
surrounded by beautiful, lush nature. You can hire a guide to show you around or hire
a bike. Le Marche des Valeurs is a great place to see African-inspired art and haggle
with the merchants.

Uganda Airlines makes direct flights from Entebbe to Kinshasa thrice a week.

Visit Lac Ma Vallée Eat @ O’Poeta
Surrounded by equatorial forest, Ma Vallée is a scenic African lake. Though they The place is clean, the food is excellent,
charge 5 USD to enter, it is worth it as it offers different activities. For those who and the service is perfect. They have
want more exciting entertainment such as zip-lining across the lake, kayaking, lovely Italian dishes. Try the lasagna!
paddle-boating or mountain-biking, this a good place to be. Enjoy some quiet And, they have the best pizza in town.
moments at the small beach, and good food at the restaurant.

www.ngaaliinflightmag.com 49

Mombasa DON’T FORGET TO

ENJOY…

Mombasa, known as the white and blue city of Kenya, has a population of 900,000. Its A city tour & Che Shale Beach
beachfront hotels appeal to travellers in search of sun, sand and surf, while its blend day trip with transfer
of India, Arabia and Africa can be intoxicating, and many visitors find themselves For 131.95 USD per person, enjoy a
seduced by East Africa’s biggest and most cosmopolitan port. full day exploring the northern part of
the Kenyan coast including Malindi,
Uganda Airlines flies to Mombasa thrice a week. one of the oldest towns in the region.
Visit historic churches, museums, and
landmarks before having lunch at
the magical Cheshale Golden Beach
Restaurant.

Eat@ Yul’s Restaurant Stay @ Leisure Lodge Resort & Golfing at Vipingo Ridge
Want a laid-back Sunday afternoon plan? Golf Club Vipingo Ridge is a posh, residential
Enjoy the cool breeze by the beachfront They offer impeccable service and all golfing destination at the coast with
as you partake of great food. Try the the essential amenities to invigorate the an 18-hole golf course dubbed Baobab
famous Yul’s burger and Italian Gelato weary traveller. Experience high quality course. It has become a treasured
ice cream! room facilities during your stay here. vacation destination and one of the
best Kenyan golf resorts for an excellent
golfing experience.

50 NG'AALI SEPTEMBER - DECEMBER 2021