Ng'aali Inflight Magazine Sep-Dec Issue 2021

COMFORT.
LUXURY.
SOPHISTICATION.

Neptune Hotels is a leading hotel group in East Africa. We operate 7 hotels: 4 beach resorts and one
safari camp in Kenya, one resort in Zanzibar and a lodge in Tanzania. We take the utmost care to
deliver the highest standard of service for total customer satisfaction.
Our teams are trained to the highest standard to ensure you have a stress free and memorable
holiday. Our aim is to exceed your holiday expectations by offering you the best resorts and safari
camps at the best locations. Book a minimum of 45 days prior to arrival and spend less. This offer
is valid at all Neptune Hotels. All Neptune Hotels are Covid compliant.

+254 716 016 000 | [email protected] | www.neptunehotels.com

Set on 50 acres of virgin Tanzanian bush
in the Ngorongoro volcanic landscape, this
all-suites log cabin style retreat is located
a few steps from the Game Reserve Gate
and is 20 minutes’ drive away from the
Ngorongoro Crater, said to have the most
dense concentration of wildlife in Africa. The
property features 20 spacious private cabins
with a fireplace, a restaurant, a bar and
conference facilities. Relax at the swimming
pool or at the Earth & Rain Spa after a full-day
game drive.

It is nestled in the heart of the exclusive Masai
Mara North Conservancy. Immersed in the

original bush among indigenous plantations
and trees, the 20 luxury tents directly overlook
the Mara River, which winds itself around the
camp with gently flowing waters surrounded
with wildlife and teeming with large groups of

Hippos. Enjoy an al fresco lunch or evening
BBQs around the pool, as you watch the

Masai dancing and talking about their culture.

+254 716 016 000 | [email protected] | www.neptunehotels.com

This is the ideal choice if you are looking for
that “special touch”, and the finest of details.
The luxurious resort was meticulously
created to emulate traditional Zanzibari style
using the best in local design, interiors and
furnishing to meet top international standards.
The 190 deluxe and 4 master suites all offer
Indian Ocean views. It is located North East
on Zanzibar’s best beach on the Kiwengwa
shoreline, 45km from The International Airport
and Stone Town.

Set in a beautiful tropical garden and totally
renovated in 2016, the 92 rooms are in makuti

roofed cottages with only 4 rooms per unit.
Restaurants and bars form a perfect match

between hotel and nature and offer a real
African atmosphere. The resort is located at
the South Coast at the famous Diani Beach.

Mombasa town is 40km, Moi International
Airport 45km, with the Ukunda Airstrip only

8km away.

+254 716 016 000 | [email protected] | www.neptunehotels.com

Located at Bamburi Beach, the special
highlight is the lush garden area and the
new terrace with a view of the Ocean. There
are many quiet areas throughout the resort
including the newly created “coffee shop” to
offer you calm and relaxation.

Seated at Diani beach, this 165-room gem is
a perfect match between resort and nature

thanks to makuti roofs all through. It is one of
the widest beachfront hotels in Mombasa.

A 4-star-plus boutique hotel set in beautiful
tropical gardens on a prime beachfront
location at Diani Beach, South Coast. The 60
rooms are in makuti roofed cottages with only
4 rooms per unit.

+254 716 016 000 | [email protected] | www.neptunehotels.com



DESTINATION KENYA

HOAUTNGWIITNHG THE Followed by a train of bleating goats and braying
SAMBURU mules, pastoralists have walked miles to reach a
MORANS OF towering water tank in the bush. It’s one of the few
EWASO precious sources of water in this semi-arid region
of northern Kenya, and a lifeline during periods
The long-term survival of lions and other of drought.
carnivores depends on reinforcing the While their livestock refuel, Samburu men and women smile
modes of coexistence that have existed and joke, distracting attention from a restless, heavy sky which
for generations, and working with people promises only more heat, but no rain. Today though, a topic
to adapt to new changes. Together with far more pressing than weather is on their minds. There are
Ewaso, the Samburu morans have played rumours a lion has been seen in the area and everyone is on
a huge role in this conservation effort. high alert.
Words and pictures by Sarah Marshall
Historically, the Samburu region hosted a healthy population
of lions, although loss of habitat, overgrazing and human
conflict have dwindled numbers considerably.

“Life is difficult for our lions,” says Jeneria Lekilelei, a
Samburu warrior employed as field operations and community
manager at NGO Ewaso Lions. “When we look at lions in
the Maasai Mara we call them lazy; they have so much food
available and they don’t need to work hard.”

Having developed an admiration for the animals, Jeneria
is now focused on safeguarding their survival, and part of his
mission is to convince the community to protect what he
believes to be a blessing, rather than a threat - something which
has brought him to the attention of the Tusk Trust charity,
who have shortlisted him for their prestigious award for
Conservation in Africa.

I’ve travelled to Ewaso’s base in the Westgate Community
Conservancy to find out about his work. Earlier that morning,
we had tracked on foot across scrubby savannahs searching
for paw prints, fighting through the brittle branches of acacia
bushes and battling with vicious thorns. Assisted by his team of
Ewaso warriors, Jeneria identified a lion track leading towards
the water tank – although to me, the faint indentations could
easily have been workings of the wind.

Now, his mission is to spread the word. Driving along
parched roads through clouds of dust, we stop to exchange
information with every person we meet. Jeneria nods his head
and listens intently to their reports, even if he’s being told the
same story every time.

“It’s important to make people feel that their contribution is
needed,” says the intuitive, natural leader, who now earns the
same respect from his community as he fosters for his lions. “I
might hear the same information 20 times, but I always let
them talk until the end.”

As a young herder, Jeneria admits he also once viewed
lions as the enemy, but now he understands their place and
importance in his world.

www.ngaaliinflightmag.com 57

DESTINATION KENYA
“Hearing lions in the morning is a good sign of hope that there will be no
drought,” he tells me as we climb to the top of a rocky plateau, scanning a
vast expanse of land bristling with a dry stubble of vegetation. “Without a
balanced landscape, one that includes lions and other wildlife, we could also
lose the plants and water that we depend on for living.”
That healthy, attractive environment also serves another economic
purpose, as a growing tourism industry provides communities with
financial reward. Although most lodges are concentrated around Samburu
National Reserve, a rich green oasis free from livestock grazing, others are
opening on community land.
I’m staying at Sasaab, a sumptuous tented property on the banks of the
Ewaso Ng’iro River, where open-fronted rooms are scattered across a rocky
hillside. During the heat of the day, thirsty elephants parade down to the
river and cheeky rock hyraxes gaze longingly at the private plunge pools.
Just sitting here, being still and watching big skies roll over hazy mountains
on the horizon, is a joy.
For every guest staying at the property, Sasaab makes a financial
contribution to the community, and they helped Ewaso Lions’ founder
Shivani Bhalla set up her first base on nearby land.
Many staff are employed from the local area and guests are welcomed into
villages to learn about Samburu culture, an experience that’s far removed
from the contrived, uncomfortable pantomime you might expect. During
my own visit, I’m swept up in a carnival of song and dance by women in a
rainbow of beaded necklaces, whose eyes sparkle brighter than stars.
Although he often travels abroad for fundraising events, Jeneria still
lives in a traditional manyatta (village), and follows a Samburu way of
life. Heading a Warrior Watch project, he has recruited many of his
contemporaries to assist with lion protection and research. The young
men laugh and joke together, connected by a united purpose and a deeper
brotherly bond.
Very soon, when the rains come, they will graduate to elders, and a new
team of morans (warriors) will adopt their responsibilities. It’s a time for
pride, reflection – and some concern.
About every 15 years, teenage boys undergo a circumcision ceremony,
heralding a new life as morans, and Jeneria tells me that time is soon
approaching, triggered by the first drops of rain. As part of the celebrations,
each boy must wear a piece of lion skin, and, with not enough to go around,
there are fears more cats could be killed.
But refusing to be despondent, Jeneria has put a positive spin on the
situation.
“I tell people, if you respect lions as a symbol of strength, then why not
protect them?”
It’s a valid point, made even more convincing coming from his lips. In
the meantime, the Ewaso team is hurriedly trying to amass borrowed pieces
of antique skin from other communities who have already completed their
own ceremonies. And I wonder if they’re hoping – just this once – that the
rains won’t come so soon.
How to plan your trip

Rooms at The Safari Collection’s Sasaab Lodge start from 750 USD/£583/€680 per
adult, per night, sharing on a full board basis. Visit thesafaricollection.com for more
information.

Uganda Airlines flies to Nairobi twice daily.

58 NG'AALI SEPTEMBER - DECEMBER 2021

DESTINATION KENYA

Left, anti-clockwise:
Samburu women, adorned in a
rainbow of beaded necklaces,
welcome guests with cheerful

song and dance;
Jeneria (left) and one of
the members of his Warrior

Watch project;
The young men of the Warrior

Watch are connected by a
united purpose and a deep

brotherly bond;
One of the beautiful rooms
at The Safari Collection’s

Sasaab Lodge

DESTINATION SOUTH AFRICA

T The Colourful And Fascinating

he Bo-Kaap (“above the Cape” in BO-
Afrikaans) is the oldest surviving KAAP
neighbourhood in Cape Town
and has a rich and multicultural
history. Situated at the foot of
Signal Hill on the fringe of the
city centre, its origins date back
to the 1760s when numerous
“huur huisjes” (rental houses) were
built and leased to slaves. These
people were known as Cape
Malays, and were brought from
Malaysia, Indonesia and the rest
of Africa to work in the Cape.

As a result, Bo-Kaap is rooted
in Malaysian, African, Indian
and Sri Lankan culture. Today,
the area is still known for its
vibrant history and blending of
creeds; a cocktail which visitors
often find fascinating and
unforgettable.

Bo-Kaap has the largest
concentration of pre-1850
architecture in South Africa,
and is the oldest surviving
residential neighbourhood in
Cape Town. It is known for its
colourful houses, a mix of Cape
Dutch and Georgian architecture,
in distinctive multi-coloured
rows on steeply cobbled roads.

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DESTINATION SOUTH AFRICA

The choice of colour is said to
be attributed to the fact that
while on lease, all the houses
had to be white. When this
rule was eventually lifted, and
the slaves were allowed to buy
the properties, all the houses
were painted bright colours by
their owners as an expression of
their freedom.

The oldest building in the
Bo-Kaap is on Wale Street and
currently houses the Bo-Kaap
Museum. This is the best place to
discover the real history of the
area and to get a glimpse into the
life of a typical Malay family. The
first established Muslim mosque
in South Africa, the Auwal
Mosque, can also be found in
the Bo-Kaap.

HUNGRY? A must-do is a
traditional Cape Malay meal at
one of the restaurants, or a Cape
Malay cooking course with one of
the expert locals.

Make an appointment to
visit The Diamond Gallery
for an exclusive VIP shopping
experience. As they’re one of the
largest diamond wholesalers in
South Africa, you’ll find they
have a massive selection of rings,
pendants and other jewellery, as
well as diamond cutting services
and custom designs. The perfect
souvenir or gift! Colourful
Bo-Kaap has a fascinating history
and unique culture just begging to
be explored.

Uganda Airlines flies to Jo’burg
four times a week

www.ngaaliinflightmag.com 61

ANIMAL KINGDOM

BONOBOS
Man’s Unique But Often Forgotten Cousins

Arguably our closest relatives, Bonobos are gregarious, helpful
primates that are lesser known than chimps, gorillas, and
orangutans, perhaps because they live only in one place in the
world, deep in the rainforest of the Democratic Republic of Congo.

Bonobos share 98.7 percent of our genetic But their appearance is not the thing that really sets
makeup - they are about two-thirds the size of bonobos apart from chimps. The most striking difference is the
humans. Unlike their other cousins, the common status and dominance of females. In the mid-1970s, Japanese
chimpanzees, they are not divided into subspecies primatologist Takayoshi Kano was one of the first to document
and to the untrained eye, it can be hard to the central position of females in bonobo society. This
distinguish them. But there are differences. contrasts with chimpanzees, where females tend to spend a lot
“Bonobos have more style,” wrote primatologist Frans de of time marginalised at the edge of the community.
Waal in Scientific American in 1995. “The bonobo, with its
long legs and smallish head atop narrow shoulders, has a more Their discontinuous range extends from the Lualaba River
gracile (slender) build than does a chimpanzee.” in the east to the Kasai/Sankuru rivers in the south and as
Bonobos are a little bit leaner, slender, and have longer legs. far as the Congo River in the west and around Lake Tumba/
Their faces are usually black, and their lips are bright pink Lake Mai-Ndombe. Only four distinct bonobo strongholds
as opposed to dark. Their hair is relatively long and often have been identified: the Maringa-Lopori-Wamba, Tshuapa-
frames their faces from a natural middle part. They are also Lomami-Lualaba, Solong, and Lac Tumba-Lac Mai Ndombe.
distinguished by tail tufts. Estimates from these strongholds suggest a minimum of 15,000
to 20,000 individual living bonobos.

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ANIMAL KINGDOM

Some scientists believe that bonobos are the most intelligent for five years. As a result, population growth cannot happen
of the primates (other than humans, of course). Maybe that’s fast enough to counter high levels of poaching, habitat loss, and
because they share many of our human behaviours, such as human encroachment.
teaching their young social skills, using tools to get food, and
working together for the good of the entire troop. And on the For a long time, local taboos against hunting bonobos, who
ground, they can walk bipedally (upright on two feet), making are so human-like, protected the peaceable apes. But those fears
them the most human-like of all apes. are lessening under the influence of cultural outsiders and with
tradition’s weakening hold on the young. Today, commercial
Scientists have taught a few bonobos, housed in labs, how bushmeat hunting, supported by ever more trade routes, joins
to communicate with humans by using symbols that represent habitat loss as a top threat to bonobos.
words on a board. They can understand spoken words and
reply to questions or ask for things by pointing to symbols. Some researchers estimate that tonnes of bushmeat are
They even laugh when they are tickling each other or playing extracted daily in bonobo range areas. The number of bonobos
together, and they are the most playful apes. killed for bushmeat is limited compared to other species, but
because bonobos reproduce slowly, bushmeat hunting poses a
When it comes to finding food, bonobos have it pretty easy dire threat.
in their rainforest home. They forage during the day for food
both in trees and on the ground. Working in small groups, they In addition,people who live in the Congo Basin slash and
often share the food found and then gather together in larger burn forest for conversion to agriculture, destroying and
groups to build their sleeping nests. These clever apes have fragmenting bonobo habitat. This fragmentation heightens
been observed sponging water out of tree trunks with moss, bonobos’ vulnerability to hunters and also isolates bonobo
fashioning a rain hat out of leaves, and shaping a toothpick groups that must interbreed to remain viable.
out of a twig. They also spend hours hunting for earthworms
to snack on. AWF’s Efforts To Protect Bonobos

In bonobo society, the females take charge and keep lifelong Through partner investments, Africa Wildlife Foundation
bonds with their sons. When a daughter is old enough, she (AWF) established two reserves in the DRC’s high-priority
must leave the troop and find another one to join. She breeds Maringa-Lopori-Wamba landscape. In the 3,625 sq km Lomako-
with all the males in the new group, and gains permanent Yokokala Faunal Reserve, they train and equip rangers to
membership when she gives birth. Adult females form manage the protected area optimally. As a result, bonobos there
strong bonds with each other. The female-led troops tend are faring well. Tour operators line up to take visitors to see the
to be relatively peaceful, and seem to be sensitive to each bonobos. The tourism creates revenue for the reserve, benefits
other’s needs. local communities economically, and provides all-important
jobs. Also, researchers seek access to the Lomako bonobos, and
Infants are born virtually helpless and must be carried their work expands AWF’s knowledge of this fascinating species.
everywhere by their mothers for the first two years. At birth,
the male bonobo inherits the social status of his mother and The Iyondji Community Bonobo Reserve came about at the
relies on her for protection. He shares a close, permanent request of the community, which saw how the Lomako reserve
bond with his mother and remains with her throughout his benefited local people. AWF supports daily ranger patrols in
life. Both male and female youngsters stay close to their mother this essential protected area adjacent to the Luo Scientific
for several years while they grow and learn how to be a part of Reserve, where Kyoto University researchers have studied
bonobo society. bonobos since the 1970s. Together, Luo and Iyondji comprise
one of the largest blocks of bonobo habitat in the region.
A bonobo gives birth every five to six years, allowing her
time to bond with each offspring. Although bonobos can reach To support strategic conservation, AWF uses satellite imagery
their sexual maturity at 6 to 8 years of age, the females don’t and GIS software to map and predict trends in habitat loss and
usually have their first baby until they are about 13 years old. fragmentation as well as human encroachment. In a recent study,
Bonobos control their emotions during times of happiness, AWF ecologist David Williams integrated ground survey data
sorrow, excitement, or anger. They also have human-like with satellite imagery to identify forested areas likely to support
gestures when communicating without sound - they beg other bonobo populations and to define linkages between major
by stretching out an open hand and whimper if they fail at bonobo habitat blocks.
something, just like humans.
AWF and partners will use this information to facilitate
The Bad News collaborative land-use planning sessions with communities and
government entities such as the park service. The result should
Bonobos have experienced a significant population reduction be new or improved protected areas for bonobos along with
in the past 12 to 20 years. Today there are an estimated 15,000- zones for livelihood uses such as smallholder farming.
20,000 wild bonobos alive. Their numbers are shrinking, yet
reproduction is slow - females give birth to a single infant every With commercial logging and mining operations opening new
five to six years, and they tend to nurse and carry their babies roadways into the Congo Basin, AWF’s multi-level approach
ensures that economic development never comes at the expense
of our cousin, the peaceable ape.

www.ngaaliinflightmag.com 63

CELEBRITY PROFILE

64 NG'AALI SEPTEMBER - DECEMBER 2021

CELEBRITY PROFILE

The name Florence Kasumba Florence Kasumba was born on 26 October 1976 to Henry Kasumba
might sound new to most and his wife, Namapa, a nurse, in Kampala. She is best known for her
Ugandans, but it is big in portrayal of Ayo in the Marvel Cinematic Universe (MCU), as Senator
Hollywood. After starring in Acantha in Wonder Woman (2017), and as Shenzi in The Lion King (2019).
blockbusters like Black Panther, In 2016, she reprised her role as ‘Ayo’ in yet another superhero flick
Wonder Woman, The Lion King Black Panther, for which she won the ‘International Rising Star Award’
remake, and the Marvel film at the ‘Black Entertainment Film Fashion Television & Arts Awards’. Kasumba has
The Avengers – Infinity War, also appeared in the American television series The Quest, and has played the Wicked
Kasumba has become a most Witch of the East in NBC’s Emerald City (2017).
sought-after actress. Kasumba’s family moved to Germany when she was a little girl, and she spent
her childhood in Essen, where she attended elementary school and high school. She
initially had her heart set on a different career path. As a youngstar, she wanted to
become a tax consultant and sent her application documents out, hoping that she
could start with the apprenticeship as soon as she finished year 12 in school. Her
mother, however, kept her from pursuing that dream further, and Kasumba has often
said she is very grateful to her.
After watching the musical Starlight Express at the young age of 12, her eyes were
set on becoming an actress. She earned her degree in acting, singing, and dancing
from Fontys University of Applied Sciences in Tilburg, in the Netherlands. While
still at university, she landed her first professional film role in a Dutch movie, called
Ik ook van Jou. Soon after, she became a successful musical performer and was part of
Mamma Mia, Chicago, The Lion King, Cats, West Side Story, Evita, and Beauty and the Beast.
Kasumba even travelled to New York for a casting for Elton John’s international hit
musical Aida, after which she got the title role in Germany’s premier production.
After gaining enough experience through musicals, Kasumba decided to return to
celluloid. She took up roles in several German films, including Age of Cannibals and
The Stoning. In 2006, she made her television debut in the longest-running German
drama, Tatort, and was part of the famous show for 10 consecutive years. From 2006
until 2012, Kasumba focused only on her television career and appeared in a number
of German TV series. Her Hollywood breakthrough came in 2014, when she appeared
as ‘Talmuh’ in ABC’s reality competition series, The Quest. It made her a celebrity in
the United States.
Following her first appearance in the Marvel Cinematic Universe, Kasumba
reinforced her international next-big-thing reputation by playing Senator Acantha,
in 2017’s Wonder Woman, and reprising her security-chief role in Black Panther, which
also stars another Ugandan, Daniel Kaluuya. In Black Panther she played Ayo, a core
member of the Dora Milaje, an army of bodyguards meant to protect Wakanda and
its king, T’Challa. Alongside Lupita Nyong’o and Danai Gurira, she showed off her
acting and fighting skills, very often at the same time, striking a blow for women of
colour along the way.
With Wonder Woman, she entered an elite list of actors who have appeared in both
Marvel Cinematic Universe and DC Comics films. She joined the likes of Halle
Berry, Zoe Saldana, Natalie Portman, Ryan Reynolds, and Ben Affleck. And when, in
2019, she landed the character of Shenzi (the female leader of the hyena pack) in the
computer animated remake, The Lion King (2019) directed by Jon Favreau, she played
alongside another set of elite movie stars like James Earl Jones, Beyonce, Chiwetel

www.ngaaliinflightmag.com 65

CELEBRITY PROFILE Ejiofor, Donald Glover, and Seth Rogen. Kasumba’s vocal
portrayal as Shenzi is a standout in this movie as she captivates
66 NG'AALI SEPTEMBER - DECEMBER 2021 with every word, embodies strength, and captures the audience’s
attention.

Although she has played in famous international productions,
she says her favourite role so far was East,
the witch of the East in Emerald City. As
a child, she watched The Wizard of Oz and
would have never thought that she would
get chosen for this role.
Probably one of her most distinctive
roles was Ayo, T’Challa’s bodyguard in
Captain America – Civil War. With a single
sentence (“Move or you will be moved”)
she enchanted the entire audience
back then.
“What I like about Ayo is that I’m
able to embody a superheroine. For this
role, my private look (black, bald head,
athletic figure) was pivotal for the casting.
I train in Chinese martial arts regularly
and simply love the fact that I’m able to
exert my passion in my job and especially
in this role,” Kasumba has said. Fluent in
three languages, she can do sweet as well
as scary, funny as well as feisty. And she
can perform her own stunts.
According to her, Marvel movies
and series offer action, excitement and
humour. Actors like Robert Downey
Jr, Chris Evans, Scarlett Johansson and
many others that have slipped into
the comic figures’ roles are worldwide
public favourites. The Avengers films go
down especially well, in which multiple
heroes collectively fight for the good.
After all, comic figures have always been
role models. And who hasn’t dreamed
of saving the world as a superhero as a
child? For many, going to the cinema
to watch a Marvel movie is always an
unforgettable experience.
Florence Kasumba has achieved what
many actors and actresses dream of:
the international breakthrough. Her
international background, her distinctive
looks and the fact that she speaks
German, English and Dutch fluently
definitely helped her with this endeavor.
Kasumba has famously said that her
recipe for success includes the common

ingredients: discipline, respect, patience and especially the love
for the job. It is this very combination that has catapulted her
straight into the Hollywood A-list. Apart from the blockbusters

CELEBRITY PROFILE
mentioned above, her list of top class
releases also includes Shakespeare’s A
Midsummer Night’s Dream, the Netflix
film Mute by Duncan Jones, the German
film Arthur & Claire, and Amazon
Prime’s Deutschland 86.

Kasumba has already achieved quite
a lot in her young life, and has said her
ultimate dream is to visit the Shaolin
temple in Henan, in the middle of
China, where she would love to train
with the monks there and gain insight
into their everyday lives.

In 2016, she was nominated for
the Black Entertainment Film
Fashion Television & Arts Award for
International Rising Star in 2016, against
Lupita Nyong’o, John Boyega and Lisa
Awuku. She won the award. In 2019,
she won Germany’s Coolest Detective
Award, and in 2020, she won Best
National Actress at the Jupiter Awards.

Kasumba has three sisters and a
brother, and is a very private person who
has managed to keep her personal life
away from the tabloids. She currently
resides in Berlin.

Above:
In Black Panther,
Kasumba was a
core member of
the Dora Milaje, an
army of bodyguards
meant to protect
Wakanda and its

king, T’Challa

www.ngaaliinflightmag.com 67

CUISINE

His IaCcKlaOss RacYt

HWords by Dora Imani Even as the COVID19 pandemic has a real sense of where we’re going here.
ickory Restaurant & put a damp on most things, Kampala’s Spoilt for choice, we order Hickory
Lounge in Kololo, a restaurant landscape has never felt Barbecue Chicken Wings, marinated
leafy high-end suburb more in flux. Sheltered from the snarl of in Asian condiments and finished with
in Kampala, was named traffic on Ngabo Road, off Wampewo homemade peri peri barbecue sauce;
after the Hickory Tree Avenue, everything about Hickory Frittura di Calamari, served with tartar
– sturdy, slow and steady growing, with is great. All the classics are present, sauce; and Barbecue Meatballs. The
one of the most durable wood types correct and of good value. Plush and meatballs are finely baked and coated in
you can find. The Hickory tree story downlit, the restaurant is truly a den a thick and sweet homemade BBQ sauce,
tells tales of our forefathers using it for of high-definition dining and wining, topped off with fresh coriander leaves
wagon wheels and hand tools due to its peppered with bursts of foliage. And and served with fresh garden salad.
robustness. Hickory was used for the thankfully, the staff manages to transfer
construction of early aircraft and exudes this aesthetic sure-footedness to all the The mains are robust and sturdy in
a spirit of competence, adventure and services. a very good way. We go for Ugandan
fortitude. Hickory Restaurant & Lounge Organic Pork Chops with fresh creamy
represents all of the past tales of service My friends and I are in for a treat sukuma wiki, served with grilled
and quality of the Hickory tree. judging from the starters, which give us plantain (Gonja) and mushroom sauce.
Delicious! They are tender and flavourful,
and points go to the chutney, which
complements the savoury protein with a
crisp stroke of sweetness.

The hits keep coming. The Shrimp
Spinach and Bacon Alfredo, like so
much here, makes you feel like you are
being good to yourself. It is so yummy
that we chase the last fragments around
the plate!

Our other wise choice, The Hickory
Special Grilled Chicken Breast, is
wrapped in bacon, stuffed with spinach
and mozzarella cheese and served with
mushroom sauce and a side of hand
picked vegetables and steamed rice.
The Jumbo Prawns, when they come,
are a surprise marvel. Marinated with
garlic, butter, lemon and served with a
side salad, crispy fries and tartar sauce,
they make us wish we had ordered
more of them.

68 NG'AALI SEPTEMBER - DECEMBER 2021

CUISINE

And then the star of the show: regular, we order the Nutty Caramel and they also serve by the glass. Cocktails
oven baked well-marinated pork and Chocolate Sundae, and it is pure range from 24,000 to 34,000 UGX by
ribs in carefully selected herbs. They sunlight. The slice of Homemade Cake the glass, and cocktail pitchers cost
are ravishing, with golden char and Of The Day is so soft and scrumptious, it 70,000 UGX.
soft, fat-seeping succulence. They are melts in the mouth.
usually served with a side salad and Our waiter was awesome, and the staff
Hickory crispy fries, but we opt for The Hickory has a Cocktail O’clock worked as a team in bringing the food
creamy mashed potatoes. The ribs theme daily, and my Pinky Gloss and cleaning up our table. The garden is
have evidently been shown due care does not disappoint both in taste and lovely, with flowers so fresh and bright
and attention. Clearly, the chef isn’t presentation. As we swirl our last glasses that one would think they were unnatural.
afraid of sensational flavours, he is of luscious Nederberg Pinotage and There is fairly ample parking space,
enamored by them. cocktails, we are surprised that this level but when it gets full, patrons can leave
of capital-C cooking is available at such vehicles by the roadside, which is safe
Usually with menus this perfect, fair prices, which range from 22,000 to and secure.
the ball drops somewhere, but come 30,000 UGX for starters, and 40,000 to
dessert time, and the balls are all placed 69,000 UGX for mains. A bottle of wine Hickory may well be the least surprising
right. Tipped by one of us, a Hickory ranges from 80,000 to 210,000 UGX, restaurant success of the times. But that
doesn’t make it any less dazzling.

www.ngaaliinflightmag.com 69

ROOM WITH A VIEW

Gorilla Heights Lodge

If you are looking for a star shower, WiFi system, warmer, fridge,
hospitality experience in indoor living space and a kitchen setup
the wilderness of Bwindi with a dedicated tea unit. If you love
Impenetrable National Park, cozy, warm bubble baths after a long day,
this newly built eco-friendly the deluxe cottage tubs have views of a
lodge won’t offer you breathtaking wild setting, with nature as
anything less. your soundtrack.
Gorilla Heights Lodge sits on the axis
of Nkuringo hill, offering lavish blends Pamper yourself in the luxurious spa
of the breathtaking sights of a rolling and massage after a busy day in Kisoro.
forest canopy and jagged mountain The Spa is designed with comfortable
ranges. It is conveniently located 10 amenities and attentive service to create
minutes away from the starting point of an oasis of relaxation as you enjoy your
gorilla tracking. massage. Alternatively, you can go to
the fully-fledged health club’s steam
The 15 luxurious cottages at the lodge bath or sauna.
derive their names from the attractions
surrounding the lodge. The one family At the heart of the lodge is a heated
cottage is named Silverback, after the swimming pool that provides a heavenly
alpha male and head of a gorilla family. soak to crown your day. There’s nothing
more soothing than slipping into this
Regardless of whether you settle for pool when your body is worn out after
the family, deluxe or standard cottages, tracking gorillas.
you are assured of the most breathtaking
sights of the park, thanks to the floor- In the main lounge, the fireplace will
to-ceiling windows of the rooms. The bathe you in warmth, because Bwindi
horizon, as seen from the lodge, hovers is a chilly place in the evenings. Many
over the park’s forest canopy, creating visitors cherish it as a family spot to
a surprising blend of blue and green spend quality time with loved ones.
hued skyline. The cherry on the cake is
the jagged mountainous backdrop of Having worked in high-end safari
the Virunga Ranges at Uganda’s borders lodges for over 5 years, David, the chef, is
with Congo and Rwanda. a culinary expert. He is great at beating
expectations with decadent 3-course
The cottages are spacious and have meals that are original each time. The
private balconies where you can have a lodge has special themed tea evenings
quiet outdoor lunch, or simply sit back where guests get to sample local teas and
and relax in the evening as you behold beverages.
sunsets over the horizon.
The lodge offers free airport pick-
Each cottage has its own private ups and drop-offs to and from Kisoro
airstrip.

70 NG'AALI SEPTEMBER - DECEMBER 2021

ROOM WITH A VIEW

ROOM WITH A VIEW

SZEaRnzEibNarA

Opened in 1997, Zanzibar Serena Hotel was created by restoring
and rehabilitating two historic buildings, the 19th-Century-old
Extelcoms building and the 18th Century “Chinese doctor’s
residence”. In so doing, the original architectural integrity of the
buildings and their decorative finishes both exterior and interior
were meticulously protected and where necessary, restored.

This inviting gem is beautifully laid upon a white sand beach on the shores of the
majestic Indian Ocean and is one of Zanzibar’s top honeymoon destinations. I would
have loved to describe it as a hotel, but it looks more like a spacious beachfront
mansion with a rich history.

Its architectural design and decor is a mix of Indian, Arabic and African themes,
crafted with attention to detail and a touch of luxury. Guests get to experience and
connect with the history, culture and lifestyle of what is today recognized as the
“Zanzibar Style”.

The staff were attentive and gracious. It’s hard to forget how they went out of their
way in the wee hours of the night to help a guest whose sickness had got out of hand.
An onsite doctor was quickly called in to monitor his health until he stabilised.
The rooms are spacious, each with unobstructed views of the calm Indian Ocean,
and the relaxing breeze can be enjoyed from the private balconies. The white walls,
high-ceilings and crisp royal blues and whites give a sense of Zanzibar coastal serenity
and charm.

Dining at the hotel is a memorable experience. The rooftop Terrace Seafood
Restaurant offers fresh-caught seafood and extraordinary views of the bay, the perfect
place to unwind after a day’s venture into Spice Town. Weekly authentic Swahili
banquets can be enjoyed by the pool at Baharia Restaurant, whilst Masahani Bar
offers signature cocktails and live performances by traditional Taarab bands.
Things to do
Stone Town is a vast “museum” of well preserved Arabic-style buildings, most of
which date back to the 18th Century. Luckily, Serena Zanzibar’s Senior Manager, Paul
Chaulo, was happy to organise a brief city tour with one of the hotel’s partner safari
companies.

Of the places we visited, the most captivating were the spice garden and ancient
market. If you desire to shop local souvenirs with an Arabic touch, a visit to this place
will be a treat.

Words by Solomon Oleny

72 NG'AALI SEPTEMBER - DECEMBER 2021

ROOM WITH A VIEW

www.ngaaliinflightmag.com 73

EGUANA
KAMPALA

Words by Hassan Ssentongo

FASHION

Emmanuel Bagwana, “It’s such an experience shaped and influenced the kind
pictured above, exciting time to of brand I later created. As you can see,
fuses African and be a designer,” Eguana Kampala is a very accessible ready-
Western styles to says Emmanuel to-wear brand.”
Bagwana.
create pieces that “When I started Bagwana later enrolled at Evelyne College
are timeless and out, people preferred of Design in Kenya before he founded his
wearing local brands to brand in 2007. It started as a passion project
easy to wear funerals, and nothing else. that slowly evolved into a fashion business
This has since changed; in 2010. He hasn’t looked back since. His
people now wear these designs have since been showcased at a
brands with pride, and pay number of fashion events across the globe,
good money to own them.” including being a fixture at the annual
His sentiments are a true picture of Kampala Fashion Week.
exactly what’s happening in Uganda
now - a vibrant creative scene bustling For a brand that’s heavy on prints, their
with opportunities. His own creation, selection and inspiration must be a huge
Eguana Kampala, is one of the brands part of Bagwana’s design process. Flipping
soaring through this zeitgeist moment. He through the brand’s previous collections and
fuses African and western styles to create look books means marvelling at an array of
ready-to-wear pieces that are timeless and eclectic prints splashed on everything; from
easy to wear. The brand is also heavy on bomber jackets to kimono dresses, suits,
prints, evoking that innate and raw glamour jumpsuits and more.
that appeals to the global market. It’s not
surprising that fans of the brand include He agrees. “It’s a spiritual thing. You see
Ugandan-American actor Ntare Mwine, a print and notice that it speaks to you. I
Ugandan soul star Maurice Kirya, influencer love unconventional prints. The contrast
Lucy Smize and the ordinary Ugandan who that comes when they are paired with
desires to feel comfortable. conventional prints is satisfying.”
“Eguana Kampala is all about comfort,
because when you’re comfortable, you’ll also Most of these fabrics are imported from
be confident. I don’t believe in suffering different parts of the continent. He is,
for fashion. As I create these clothes, I however, collaborating with someone to
would like everyone that wears them to produce/make these fabrics in Uganda.
express themselves. I’d like them to channel
that Ugandan spirit we’re known for, and Joram Muzira, a popular model scout
wear them in whichever way they desire,” and Eguana Kampala enthusiast, describes
Bagwana explains. Bagwana as “a creative genius.” This is not
This approach to design has its roots in far from the truth, because many people
a small Kenyan town called Kibu where know him only for his work as a fashion
Bagwana grew up back in the 1980s. As war photographer, who has featured in global
ravaged Kampala, his family moved into publications such as Vogue Italia. In the past,
exile in Kenya. “Growing up in that small he also dabbled into commercial modelling,
town ignited the creative spirit within me which had his images plastered all over
because in a small town, you have to use billboards in Uganda. Despite all this, he
your brain more. We had to create our own has never fancied the idea of being in the
entertainment,” he recalls wistfully. “That limelight. He prefers to immerse himself in
his work and other creative pursuits.

When I quiz him about his inspirations
he’s quick to mention music.

“Music inspires me a lot. While creating,
I’ll be listening to our traditional music.

www.ngaaliinflightmag.com 75

FASHION

TITH’SIANSGP.IYROIUTSUEEAAL
PRINT IATNSDPNEOATKICSE
THAT
UPRNICNTOTONSY.OVTUHE.NEI LCTOOIVNOETNRAASLT
THAT COMES WHEN
THEY ARE PAIRED WITH
COINSVSEANTTIIOSNFAYLINPRGIN. TS

76 NG'AALI SEPTEMBER - DECEMBER 2021

Some soul from Maurice Kirya, world FASHION
music or jazz. I’m also inspired by the feeling to put a smile on someone’s face.
beauty of nature. Our weather is so Whenever someone reaches out to me to
beautiful. The greenery where I live. Our create something for them for a wedding
traditions. The different architecture I or an event, it’s always exciting. Having
chance upon here in Uganda. Plus my big name celebrities, politicians and
numerous travels across the world. All dignitaries as clients is another ‘pinch
this inspires me.” me’ moment.”

Of course, for Bagwana, like the rest What he’s most proud of, though, is
of us, the past many months have been managing to still be in business after
confusing. Lockdowns have pushed him over 10 years. “Fashion is a tough
to adapt to new ways of working. In business, although very few people
March 2020 when Entebbe Airport was understand this part. You have to be
closed, he was in the US winding up a very passionate to survive this long.”
trip and had to extend his stay until the
lockdown was lifted in Uganda. Bagwana is now focused on the future
of his brand, which involves producing
“Honestly, our creative processes his own fabrics and setting up an
have been slowed. This has also slowed e-commerce platform. “We have lagged
down business because people are at behind because we haven’t utilised
home. However, it has also been an things like e-commerce. We are now
opportunity for me to source new playing in the same space as all the other
inspirations. It has also been a great time brands in other countries. We need to
for me to focus on photography, my make our products accessible to global
other passion.” clients just like all these Nigerian brands
are doing,” he advises.
I then ask him what he’s most proud
of, having run a successful fashion brand For now, Eguana Kampala pieces
since 2010. are available to shop at Bold in Africa
located at Kisementi, Kampala.
“You know what? It’s a fantastic

www.ngaaliinflightmag.com 77

TRENDS

Purse - Mwiiza Store, Sunglasses - Sash’z Closet,
Kooki Towers Garden City Mall

Leather Boots - Iconic UG, Fedora Hat - Amor Style,
Senana Mall, Buganda Road @amorstyle20 via Instagram

Pyjama Set - Shaky Fringed Blazer Dress -
Instyle, Grand Corner Sash’z Closet, Garden
City Mall Basement
eleBgLaAnCcKeHouse,Kampala

Technically, black isn’t a colour, but rather the absence of visible light.
This explains why it is associated with timeless style and classic elegance
because when it comes to it, there’s no trend or season. As we figure out how
to live through a pandemic, let us fight back with a colour that represents a
sense of rebelliousness. Black evokes sophistication, power, drama, formality,

mystery and most importantly, elegance.

Heeled Sandals - Beaded Bracelet – Green
Mwiiza Store, Amba, Mabirizi Complex
Kooki Towers

Vintage Leather Silk Scarf -
Jacket - Chloe’s Closet, Chloe’s Closet,
Salaama Road Salaama Road

Wrist Watch - At Watch
Uganda, Kimathi Avenue

Macro Purse - Shaky
Instyle, Grand
Corner Plaza

78 NG'AALI SEPTEMBER - DECEMBER 2021

GUIDES AND TIPS
to lose something. Whenever I check
out of a place, I check the bathroom, I
check under the beds, I check the desks,
and then I make sure I have my passport,
laptop, camera, money, phone, and
external hard drive. I’ll be fine if I leave
anything else behind. Having a routine
that you go through every single time
will help you keep track of everything. I
learned my lesson with this one when I
left my passport behind in a guesthouse
in Bagan, then left it in an apartment in
London two months later.

Words by Lauren Juliff skin cancer or a body that’s blanketed in 5 If You’re Not Sure If You Should
leathery wrinkles. Bring It, Don’t
I have made a lot of mistakes The lighter your backpack, the better. If
over the past eight years. I’ve 2 Learn A Few Words Of The in doubt, leave it behind. Trust me, you
been scammed in Russia, China, Language In Every Country You can buy pretty much anything you could
Laos, the Maldives, Tanzania, Visit possibly need in most places around the
and Sri Lanka. I managed You’ll gain more respect from the locals world. You’ll soon learn that all you need
to lose half the things I was if you can at least say hello, please, sorry, when you travel is a change of clothes,
originally travelling with. I’ve and thank you. On that note, remember: some money, and a passport. Everything
gotten lost more times than I if you don’t speak the language, it’s your else is adding to your comfort.
can count. Homesick, too. I fell problem, not theirs. And please don’t
down the largest sand dune in start speaking louder to make yourself 6 The Smaller The Menu, The
Africa, caught cholera in Borneo, understood. Try miming instead, or Better The Restaurant
had a rabies scare in India, and using a translation app on your phone. That’s why street food is so delicious!
got caught up in a tsunami in While you’re travelling, look for places
Thailand, and was stranded in 3 Space Saver Bags Will Help that only do a handful of dishes rather
the Democratic Republic of You Fit More In Your Backpack than offering 500 options. There’s a
the Congo. But I’ve learned a I’d always been all about the packing better chance of stumbling upon an
tonne from my experiences, too, cubes, until I discovered vacuum-sealed amazing dish when someone only makes
and below are ten of my 100 versions of them! You throw your clothes that one single thing all day everyday!
travel tips. in, seal the bag, then roll it up to push
out all the air. I can literally fit twice as 7 Give Family And/Or Friends
1 Wear Sunscreen Every Day many clothes in my backpack when I use Copies Of Your Itinerary
When you travel, you’re in the sun more these! Even if you don’t want to carry From a safety perspective, it’s good to
than most people thanks to months more things in your bag, it frees up so have several people back home who
of island-hopping and beach time, much space that if you need to pack in a know where you’ll be. I forward any
as well as entire days spent outside hurry, you can just chuck everything in. flight or accommodation confirmations
exploring. Wear sunscreen every single to my family and Skype with them
day, regardless of the weather and 4 Have A Routine When several times a week to let them know
temperature, because you really don’t Checking Out Of A Place what I’m up to. That way, if I disappear
want your trip of a lifetime to result in Checking out is when you’re most likely for a few days, my family will know
immediately and will be able to know
where I was staying at that time. It takes
just a few minutes but really improves
your safety.

Lauren Juliff is the author of the popular
travel blog Never Ending Footsteps. She
has been travelling the world for ten years
and counting.

www.ngaaliinflightmag.com 79

GUIDES AND TIPS

SAFARI

PACKING LIST

Water Noise Cancellation
Bottle Flask Earphones
This chic design
takes things to Flying is full of
the next level headaches, but
with BPA-free these might just be
shatter-proof
plastic and a soft the cure.
silicone sleeve.

Digital Organiser USB Solar Charger
The ultimate companion to keep your digital Use the power
of the sun to
and travel accessories organised. juice your
devices
Portable multiple times.
Clothesline
Hair Dryer Easily dry your
A lifesaver for clothes anywhere,
ladies who travel especially on a
often, because camping trip.
getting long wet
hair to dry naturally
can take hours!

Anti-crease Sphynx 3-In-1 Portable Razor Hand Warmer, Mirror, And
Shirt Enjoy two single-blade razors, Power Bank
Transporter a Shea butter lotion bar, and Keep your tech
Protect your goods charged,
a refillable water your hands
freshly ironed compartment for getting warm, and
shirts from smooth on the go. your makeup
wrinkles on point with
on safari. this 3-in-1
external charger.

80 NG'AALI SEPTEMBER - DECEMBER 2021

GUIDES AND TIPS

Travel Weather
Health Calendar

Don’t let sickness stifle your travel plans. Here are tips to keep you Best time to visit Uganda month by month:
in good health while in Uganda. JANUARY TO FEBRUARY
This is one of the two best seasons out of the year to visit
COVID19 PCR TEST AND MASKS Uganda because this is considered a dry season with little
All travellers will be required to present to the airline, proof to no rainfall. It is a popular time for trekking mountain
of a negative PCR test result for COVID19, conducted 72 gorillas and chimpanzees as well as birdwatching and
hours or less before departure and done by a health facility viewing a variety of wildlife.
accredited by the host Government. Passengers must carry MARCH TO MAY
along an official printed certificate as SMS and digital This is when the Uganda climate changes to one of the
certificates will not be accepted. wet seasons. Some rains can be heavy, causing flooding
While in transit, the returnee will be required to adhere and road inaccessibility. However, if you don’t mind
to the host country’s Standard Operating Procedures the rain, you could save money during this time with
(SOPs) for safe travel and the SOPs provided by the airline reduced accommodation rates. You will also appreciate
while on the plane. This includes wearing a face mask and the lush scenery and abundance of migratory birds during
sanitisation. this period.
JUNE TO AUGUST
YELLOW FEVER HEALTH CARD Another dry season, this period is one of the best times to
A must for most African nations, get these from your visit for wildlife viewing. It is possible that you could see
doctor, and don’t wait until the last minute! Aside from some rains during these months, but it most likely will not
vaccinations, don’t forget your necessary medications. ruin your itinerary.
According to the CDC, yellow fever vaccination is required SEPTEMBER TO OCTOBER
to enter Uganda if you are travelling from a country with While you can expect rainfall during these months, you
risk of transmission. should still be able to enjoy excellent opportunities to
view wildlife.
FIRST AID KIT NOVEMBER
Out in the wilderness, the nearest town could be hours or November is when you may experience heavy rain showers
even days away. This means catching a cold could turn into turning the landscape green again. This is another good
a miserable experience. That is why it’s important to pack time to see migratory birds.
some cough drops, Sudafed, diarrhoea medication, Aspirin, DECEMBER
Dramamine, and allergy medication. You don’t need to December is when the rains slack off and temperatures start
bring a full first aid kit, as most lodges and guides have to rise along with gorilla tracking rates. If you can’t stand
their own. Simply think about the first aid medications you the heat, December may present a better month to visit
may need if you start feeling sick. than January and February.

HAND SANITISER
Why not protect yourself as much as possible? Getting sick
is tough, but getting sick on a safari could be a nightmare.
There are times when clean water for hand washing may not
be available, so hand sanitiser will come in handy.

www.ngaaliinflightmag.com 81

NG’AALI KIDS

Chimpanzees are similar to humans
Humans and chimpanzees co-existed in Africa millions
of years ago. They are our closest living relatives, and

we share over 98% of our human DNA with them. So,
it is no surprise that they have similar intelligence as
humans. They can make and use tools, learn words, use
sign language, and display empathy and self-awareness.
Chimpanzees can communicate with each other
through vocal sounds, gestures, and facial expressions.
They learn to use certain plants as medicine and can make
their own toys and play games too.

SmOaUrtRePsLtAANnEiTm’Sals
There are 8.7 million species of animals in the
world. Some can think, solve problems, use various
tools, and learn new things quickly. Scientists say
that some animals are even smarter than human
beings, writes Adele Cutler

Elephants never forget
The elephant has the largest brain of any land animal,
with as many neurons as a human brain. They are
known to have excellent long-term memories and
are capable of extreme empathy, giving support to
each other when one of them gets upset. They work
as a group to solve problems such as access to food

and protect each other from danger.
Elephants can remember routes to watering holes
over incredibly long distances and time. Research

also shows that elephants often form close bonds
with companions and can recognise each other

even after 20 years apart.

82 NG'AALI SEPTEMBER - DECEMBER 2021

NG’AALI KIDS

Dogs can save lives
Dogs are known to be man’s best friend, and they are very
smart and clever. The intelligence of dogs varies widely
across breeds but on average, they can understand around 165
human words and are able to learn many more.
A dog’s nose is 50 times stronger at picking up scents than
a human one. We all know they can smell a treat from
afar, but they can also smell human emotions. This can

help people suffering from many illnesses. Dogs are
used to sniff out explosives, firearms, and for anti-
poaching patrols to protect other animals.
A university in Pennsylvania is currently training
dogs to sniff COVID19, with the hope that they can
help identify those with the virus and help to stop
its spread.

Thought to be some of the smartest animals
on earth, it is a scientific fact that Bottlenose
Dolphins have among the largest brains
in the animal kingdom. They can send messages to
one another in many different ways and use sound and body
language to communicate.
Each dolphin has a unique whistle soon after it is born which is
used for identification, just like a human’s name. They also use a
clicking sound which travels through the water and allows them
to “see” with their ears by listening for echoes. Their very sharp
sense of hearing is 7 times better than human hearing.

African Grey Parrots are as smart as a
5-year-old
Parrots are some of the smartest and cleverest birds because
their brains are evolved the same as humans. Their intelligence
is compared to that of a five-year-old human child. Parrots
have excellent memory and are capable of solving relatively

complex puzzles. They have the ability to learn and mimic
human speech, and can imitate other sounds - even those
that humans cannot copy, for example, that of pouring water.

www.ngaaliinflightmag.com 83













ROUTES

Operation
Route Map

90 NG'AALI SEPTEMBER - DECEMBER 2021

Expansion Map

Sales & Ticketing Offices

Kampala: Victoria University Towers, Jinja Road, Kampala - Uganda | Tel: +256 (0)200 406 400 | Email: [email protected]

Entebbe Town: Victoria Mall, Shop G.09, Ground Floor, Berkeley Road Entebbe | Tel: +256 (0)200 406 421 / +256 707110416 |
Email: [email protected]

Entebbe International Airport: 2nd Floor, Passenger Terminal Building | Tel: +256 (0) 200406420

Nairobi City: 12th floor Lonrho House, Standard Street | Tel: +254 707 900777 / +254 100 900777 | Email: nbo.reservations@ugandairlines.
com

Nairobi Airport: Terminal 2, Jomo Kenyatta International Airport | Tel: +254 101 090 644 | Email: [email protected]

Dar es Salaam: Viva Towers, G09/10, Ali Hassan Mwinyi Road, Dar es Salaam, Tanzania | Tel: +255 764 111983 | +255 765 426554 |
Email: [email protected]

Juba: SADECO Building, Airport Road | Tel: +211 (0)928900500, +211 (0)917747159 | Email: [email protected]

Bujumbura: Ground Floor, Jubilee Centre Building | Chausee prince Louis Rwagasore | Tel: +257 22 280844 | Email: sales.bujumbura@
ugandairlines.com
Mogadishu: Aden Adde International Airport, Mogadishu | Tel: +252 (0)615550020 | +252 (0)615141315 | Email: reservations@ugandairlines.
com
Kinshasa: Avenue du Col. Lukusa No 32 BIS | Tel: +243 817 860 333 | Email: [email protected]

Mombasa: Nyali Center, Ground floor | Tel: +254 100 396810 / +256 100 396811 | Email: [email protected]

Arusha / Kilimanjaro: 2nd floor, Ngorongoro Conversation Building | Tel: +255 652 682 851 / +255 713 414 777 | Email: jro.airport@
ugandairlines.com

Cargo, Mail and Parcels: Entebbe International Airport | Cargo Terminal Room 29 | Cell: +256 (0) 758 380065 | Mail: [email protected]

HEAD OFFICES: Uganda National Airlines Company Limited dba Uganda Airlines | EagleAir Hangar Complex | Entebbe International Airport -
Old Airport | P.O. Box 431, Entebbe, Uganda | Tel: +(256)200 406 400 | Email: [email protected]

www.ngaaliinflightmag.com 91





BOOKSHELF travel book RECOMMENDATIONS

OUR BEST

Seeking inspiration for your next trip? Then pick up a book, be it a biography, historical page-turner or mesmerising novel. Our
travel books all feature irresistible settings (real and fictionalised). We bet you’ll want to get on that plane to these destinations
before you’ve turned the last page!

LIFE AFTER VIOLENCE: A ZANZIBAR BORN A CRIME
PEOPLE’S STORY OF BURUNDI By Aline Coquelle By Trevor Noah
For centuries, Zanzibar has been
By Peter Uvin the haven and gateway for explorers Born under apartheid to a black South
Published in 2008, this book captures including Richard Burton and African mother and a European father,
a Burundi that has recently emerged David Livingstone to penetrate the
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war. Its economy has been destroyed and cluster of islands is at a crossroads of stardom led to this sold-out story. It is
hundreds and thousands of people have cultures, featuring Omani architecture, an engaging, fast-paced and vivid read,
been killed. Farmers, artisans, traders, Portuguese and British heritages as well not only because it is a personal story
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their relationships with each other and indigenous culture is preserved and
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Uvin pitches the ideas and aspirations of celebrated.
people on the ground against the theory
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and assumptions often made by the By Lonely Planet
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94 NG'AALI SEPTEMBER - DECEMBER 2021

DIPLOMATIC MISSIONS

ALGERIA EUROPEAN UNION KENYA [email protected]
14 John Babiiha Avenue Kololo 15th Floor Crested Towers 8A Elgon Terrace Kololo SOMALIA
0414 232918; 0312 265212/3 0414 701000 0414 258235/6 16 Nile Avenue
[email protected] Delegation-Uganda@eeas. [email protected] 0414 257460
AUSTRIA europa.eu LIBYA kampalaembassy.gov.so
6 Hill Lane Kololo FRANCE 28 Prince Charles Drive Kololo SOUTH AFRICA
0414 235796/0312 515865 16-18 Lumumba Avenue 0417 700700 15A Nakasero Road
[email protected] 0414 304500/510 [email protected] 0417 702100
BELGIUM ambafrance.kampala@ MOZAMBIQUE [email protected]
Rwenzori Towers diplomatie.gouv.fr 4 Kampala Road SOUTH KOREA
0414 349559 GHANA Orient House First Floor 14 Ternan Ave, Nakasero
[email protected] 6 Kalekezi Close 0414 251184 0414 500197
BRITISH HIGH COMMISSION Kololo Hill Drive [email protected] [email protected]
4 Windsor Loop Road 0773 718672, 0772 408765 NETHERLANDS SOUTH SUDAN
T: 0312 312000 tomburukuku@yahoo co.uk 2 Nakasero Road 12 Sezibwa Road Nakasero
[email protected] GERMANY Rwenzori Courts 4th Floor 0414 230272
BURUNDI 15 Philip Road Kololo 0414 34 6000 [email protected]
14 SM Chambers 0414 501111 [email protected] SPAIN
0414 235850 [email protected] NIGERIA 27 Baskerville Avenue
[email protected] GREECE 33 Nakasero Road 0414 342372
CANADA M289 Ntinda Industrial Area 0414 233691/2 [email protected]
14 Parliament Avenue 0414 286961 [email protected] SUDAN
0414 258141/0414 348141 [email protected] NORTH KOREA 21 Nakasero Road
Kampalacanadaconsulate.ca HOLY SEE (VATICAN EMBASSY) 10 Prince Charles Drive Kololo 0312 261358
CHINA Chwa 11 Road Mbuya Hill 0414 343424 [email protected]
37 Malcolm X Avenue Kololo 0414 505619; 0772 221167 [email protected] SWEDEN
0414 231095/0414 255881 [email protected] NORWAY 24 Lumumba Avenue
[email protected] ICELAND 18B Akii Bua Road Nakasero 0417 700800
CUBA 3 Lumumba Avenue 0417 112000 [email protected]
10 Lower Kololo Terrace K.A.R 0312 531100; 0414 341079 [email protected] SWITZERLAND
0414 233742 kampala[at]mfa.is PAKISTAN 6 Archer Road Kololo
[email protected] INDIA 3 Ministers Village Friendship Rd 0414 233854
DRC 11 Kyadondo Road Nakasero 0392 940285, 0703 632301 [email protected]
20 Philip Road Kololo 0414 259398/344631 [email protected] TANZANIA
0414 250299/0312 823321 [email protected] RUSSIA 6 Kagera Road
[email protected] IRAN 28 Malcolm X Avenue Kololo 0414 256272
DENMARK 8 Moyo Close Kololo 0414 345798 [email protected]
3 Lumumba Avenue 0414 505727 [email protected] THAILAND
0312 263211; 0772 221470 [email protected] RWANDA 10 Kalitunsi Road Bugolobi
[email protected] IRELAND 2 Nakaima Road Kitante 0414 253664
EGYPT 23 Yusuf Lule Road 0414 344045 [email protected]
4 Lower Kololo Terrace 0417 713000 [email protected] TURKEY
0414 254525/345152 www.embassyofireland.ug SAHRAWI 9 Elgon Terrace
[email protected] ITALY Ntinda Muwafu Curve 0772 222121, 0414 500182
ERITREA 11 Lourdel Road Nakasero 0312 299456 [email protected]
49b Upper Kololo Terrace 0414 250442 [email protected] UNITED ARAB EMIRATES
0414 342625 [email protected] SAUDI ARABIA Yusuf Lule Road
[email protected] JAPAN TWED Towers, 6th Fl. Wing B 0312 203119
ETHIOPIA Plot 8 Kyadondo Road 0313 340616/7 [email protected]
3L Kitante Close 0414 349542 [email protected] USA
0414 348340/341881 [email protected] SERBIA Nsambya Ggaba Road
[email protected] 98 Luthuli Avenue 0414 259792
0414 235733; 0414 232858 [email protected]

www.ngaaliinflightmag.com 95

TRAVEL GUIDE GENERAL INFORMATION

Welcome to the Pearl! Voltage

GETTING AROUND The primary wall outlet type is Type G (BS-1363). Voltage is
220-240 volts AC @ 50 Hz.
1.Transfer to the city/your hotel Laptops and gadgets in general have chargers that are
already compatible with 100-240 volts. If yours is higher
Thanks to reliable Internet at the airport, it's possible for you or lower, you will need a simple plug adapter. The
to order an Uber ride to your next destination in Kampala or recommended adapter for a Type G outlet is #EA7.
Entebbe. If you are in a hurry, you can take advantage of the
availability of the many cabs at the airport whose drivers are Security
always stationed at the arrivals terminal, ready for a win-win
bargain with travellers. Uganda’s towns are safe to visit any time of the year.
This development has been achieved through effective
2.Visa collaboration of the different security organs like the army
(Uganda People’s Defence Forces), Uganda Police and
Visitors to Uganda must have a valid visa in accordance with Tourism Police. That said, like any other city, Kampala too
national immigration laws, guidelines and formalities. Uganda has its share of trouble makers. It is thus not advisable to
visas can now be obtained online at https://visas.immigration. walk alone in isolated areas, especially at night.
go.ug/
Alternatively, you may obtain the visa at Uganda's missions Water
abroad or on arrival at the ports of entry around the country’s
borders. The costs of visas are as follows: Single entry $50 It is safer to drink boiled or bottled water. The average
per individual, multiple entry visa 6-12 months $100 and East price of bottled water is Shs1,000 per 500ml.
African tourist visas cost $50. Accompany your application
documents with a valid yellow fever certificate. For more Transport
information, visit https://visas.immigration.go.ug/
The easiest and fastest way to get around cities is boda-boda
3. Nationals who don’t need visas rides; a motorbike mode of transportation that offers taxi
services - each is limited to carrying one passenger. The
Nationals of the following countries don’t need visas when most professional service provider in this case is Uber Boda,
visiting Uganda: COMESA (Angola, Eritrea, Malawi, Safe Boda and Taxify, all of which can be accessed via their
Madagascar, Seychelles, Swaziland, Zambia, Comoros, Kenya, mobile phone applications.
Mauritius, Zimbabwe and Botswana), East Africa (Kenya, If you prefer using vehicles/cabs and wish to avoid traffic,
Rwanda, Tanzania and Burundi), others (Antigua, Barbados, the recommended time for travel is 6am to 8am, 10am
Fiji, Grenada, Lesotho, Sierra Leone, Solomon Islands, The to12pm and 3pm to 5pm.
Grenadines, Vanuatu, Ghana, Cyprus, Bahamas, Belize, Gambia,
Jamaica, Malta, Singapore, St. Vincent-Tonga and Ireland). Language

IMPORTANT CONTACTS Uganda is home to over 50 ethnic groups, the majority of
whom speak the national language, English. If you wish to
EMERGENCY CONTACTS get interpreters of foreign languages, visit the website of
Uganda Ambulance Services: Mob +256782556878 your country’s high commission / embassy in Kampala.
Medical flight evacuations: Mob Aero Club, Fly Uganda
Mob +256772712557 Financial transactions
Uganda Police: Emergency 999/112. UPF Headquarters
+256414233814; +256414250613. The most used currency is Uganda Shillings, the national
Department of Immigration: Mob +256414595945 currency. Tourist areas and facilities accept foreign
currencies too, particularly US dollars. Cash is the preferred
OTHER CONTACTS means of transaction in Uganda. Credit cards are less
Uganda Wildlife Authority (manages national parks): dependable because of unreliable internet connection in
+256414355000/+256312355000 some areas.
Uganda Tourism Board: +256414342196/7
Forex

The foreign exchange rates at forex bureaus are more
favourable than those at banks. The main street of most
towns is where you will find the highest concentration of
forex bureaus. In Kampala, go to Jinja-Kampala road.

Banking and Office hours

Most commercial banks and corporate offices operate from
8am to 5pm on weekdays and 9am to 12pm on Saturdays.
Most don’t open on Sundays.

96 NG'AALI SEPTEMBER - DECEMBER 2021

A PERFECT ESCAPE

FOR BUSINESS OR LEISURE

With 144 rooms, an outdoor swimming pool, a health club, conference
facilities, 3 restaurants, 3 bars, laundry services, a business center, gardens
with a natural ambience, Lake Victoria Hotel - Entebbe is a fitting choice
for a retreat away from the bustle and noise of the city.

Day Offer Price
Friday Show-cooking with live Band Ugx 60,000 with a soda
Saturday BBQ Dinner Ugx 60,000 with a soda
Friday - Sunday Weekend offer on accommodation $140 double, $100 single
Daily Drought Beer – buy 2 get 1 free, from 6pm Ugx 16,000 for 3 beers

Plot 23/31 Circular Road | P. O Box 15, Entebbe | Tel: +256 312 310 100/+256 414 351 600
Email: [email protected]

Want to Hire the Right
person Faster? Call us

1 Save 2 Save 3 Get the
Time Money Best

ADVISORY +256 772 159 740/ 704 607 167
CONSULTING [email protected]
OUTSOURCING www.welcometoebc.com

TRAVEL REQUIREMENTS

BY DESTINATION

Uganda Airlines has undertaken the necessary safety and must provide a letter of No Objection while entering
measures in compliance with approved guidelines by host South Sudan.
Governments aimed at protecting passengers and crew. For more information check: https://www.traveldoc.aero/
The following guidelines will be applicable for all our
flights. KENYA (NAIROBI, MOMBASA)

All travellers will be required to present to the airline, proof Effective 11 June 2021, all flight restrictions between Kenya
of a negative PCR test result for COVID19, conducted and the UK were lifted. All passengers/crew, irrespective of
within 72 hours of departure and done by a health facility nationality and residency status, coming to Kenya from the
accredited by the host Government. Passengers must carry UK via any route of travel must be in possession of a valid
along an official printed certificate as SMS and digital COVID19 negative PCR test certificate conducted within
certificates will not be accepted. 96 hours before travel. Children under the age of five are
exempt from this requirement.
While in transit, the returnee will be required to adhere to For more information check: https://www.traveldoc.aero/
the host country’s Standard Operating Procedures (SOPs)
for safe travel and the SOPs provided by the airline while SOMALIA (MOGADISHU)
on the plane. This includes wearing a face mask and
sanitisation. Check: https://www.traveldoc.aero /

Every individual traveller is advised to carry a spare BURUNDI (BUJUMBURA)
mask(s) in case they need to replace the original one that
they have. Used masks will only be disposed of in a facility Check: https://www.traveldoc.aero /
provided for that purpose.
KINSHASA
UGANDA (ENTEBBE)
Check: https://www.minisanterdc.cd/
As of Sept 3, 2021, new COVID19 measures are in place at
all points of entry including Entebbe International Airport. SOUTH AFRICA
All arriving passengers, irrespective of vaccination status
or country of origin, will be required to have negative PCR Check: https://www.gov.za/covid-19/
test results of not more than 72 hours prior to the travel individuals-and-households/travel-coronavirus-covid-19
date, and will undergo mandatory Covid19 testing upon
arrival - at their own expense. DUBAI
For more information check: https://www.traveldoc.aero /
All passengers travelling to Dubai from any point of origin
TANZANIA (DAR ES SALAAM, KILIMANJARO, (GCC countries included) must hold a negative COVID‑19
ZANZIBAR ) RT‑PCR test certificate for a test taken no more than 72
hours before departure, except for travel from Afghanistan,
All passengers arriving in Tanzania will be required to Bangladesh, Indonesia, India, Pakistan and Sri Lanka (for
present a negative COVID19 PCR test certificate upon which specific requirements are stated. Visit https://www.
arrival. The test should be taken within 72 hours of arrival visitdubai.com/en/
into Tanzania. All passengers travelling to Tanzania must
complete an online Traveller’s Surveillance Form. This form TRAVEL ADVISORIES
must be submitted no more than 24 hours before arrival.
For more information check: https://www.traveldoc.aero / Please note that some travel advisories have been issued
by a number of countries and may include travel restrictions.
SOUTH SUDAN (JUBA) Some of the countries on our network that have issued travel
restrictions include Uganda, Kenya, Tanzania, Somalia,
No quarantine is mandated in South Sudan. South Sudan, and Bujumbura. For more details, please visit:
All arriving passengers are required to present a valid https://www.iatatravelcentre.com/international-travel-
COVID19 certificate from an approved laboratory in a document-news/1580226297.htm
departure country, tested within 72 hours before travel,
Important: All travellers on Uganda Airlines are required to
reconfirm their flight within 72 hours to their travel date.

98 NG'AALI SEPTEMBER - DECEMBER 2021

ROOM WITH A VIEW ROOM WITH A VIEW

YoUR fRee CopY JANUARY- MARCH 2020 Mahogany Springs Lodge

BWINDI IMPENETRABLE NATIONAL PARK

Mahogany Springs is situated in one of the
most intimate, secluded, beautiful, and most
importantly, natural settings in the world –
Bwindi Impenetrable Forest, Uganda. The mist
covered hillsides of Bwindi are blanketed by one
of Uganda’s oldest and most biologically diverse
rainforests, a habitat for over 450 mountain
gorillas, roughly half of the world’s population,
including several habituated groups which can be
tracked. Surrounded by over 300 sq. km of tropical
rainforest, Mahogany Springs makes the most of
its location, offering guests privacy and serenity
in a spectacular setting.

All 11 huge luxurious suites have their own
exquisitely designed terrace with magnificent
panoramic views over the forest, lodge gardens
and Munyanga River, giving a feeling of total
immersion in this lush rainforest.

Being in the middle of the forest means gorilla
families in the surrounding area often pay a visit
to the lodge gardens, giving a surprise gorilla
experience for guests.

Spend the day tracking gorillas through the
forest, engaging with the local community and
tribes, or sitting on the terrace of your room
listening to the sounds of the forest, and maybe
the odd primate visitor as time slowly passes by.

Mahogany Springs is open year-round and
offers luxurious suites from $240 per person per
night sharing, including all meals.

Find out more at www.mahoganysprings.com

JANUARY - MARCH 2020 94 NG'AALI JANUARY - MARCH 2020 www.ngaaliinflightmag.com 95

Bugisu’s Imbalu DESTINATION KENYA DESTINATION KENYA
62 NG'AALI INAUGURAL ISSUE OCT - DEC 2019
A teenager’s bittersweet Crazy times on the
rite of passage
Lunatic Express
The African Kanga
www.ngaaliinflightmag.com The plan to build a W ith the blast of a horn, like a wounded
A traditional form of thousand-kilometre bull elephant, the old train rumbled
African twitter railway track from the into Nairobi Station. There was a flurry
Indian Ocean into the of activity as passengers hauled luggage to the
Trekking The Magnificent heart of Africa was edge of the platform. To the Swahili travellers,
RWENZORI MOUNTAINS considered by many to this train is known as gari la moshi (the car that
be utterly insane. Mark smokes), but most tourists know it as The Lunatic
NAIRoBI • MoMBASA • MoGADISHU • JUBA • DAR eS SALAAM • KILIMANJARo • BUJUMBURA • ZANZIBAR Eveleigh boards the train Express.
that, a century later, is still There have been accusations of lunacy ever
called The Lunatic Express. since the idea was conceived to build a railway
line from the Indian Ocean over a thousand
Words and photos by Mark Eveleigh kilometres to Kampala, in the heart of Africa.
Now, more than a hundred years after the project
was started, friends in Nairobi looked at me like
I was equally crazy when I told them that my
girlfriend Nina and I planned to take the train to
Mombasa.
“But the plane is so much faster,” a bush-pilot
friend exclaimed. “Even the matatu minibuses
are quicker and cheaper and probably more
comfortable too,” a park ranger told me. “You are
crazy to go by train,” they all seemed to agree.
Just as I was on the verge of being convinced,
an old friend who is an experienced East Africa
correspondent weighed in on the side of lunacy:
“The building of that railway line was one of the
crazy things that could really only happen in
Africa. Everybody should experience the Lunatic
Express while they’re in Kenya,” he said. “I’ve
done it three times.”
Reassured by his enthusiasm, I booked two
tickets and by mid-afternoon the next day, we
were already dragging our bags into a surprisingly
crowded Rift Valley Railway carriage. “Either
there are a lot of crazy people in Nairobi, or there
are a few good reasons for taking the Lunatic
Express after all,” Nina pointed out.
Within a few minutes, we were already
convinced that our decision had been the right
one. The tracks slithered quickly away from the
grumbling traffic on Mombasa Road and further
ahead, we passed within a few metres of the

www.ngaaliinflightmag.com 63

Reach your target audience!

Acacia Mall, 4th Floor +256 782 555 213 www.ngaaliinflightmag.com
14-18 Cooper Rd +256 772 666 370

P.O Box 400 Kampala, Uganda

NAIROBI • MOMBASA • MOGADISHU • JUBA • DAR ES SALAAM • KILIMANJARO • BUJUMBURA • ZANZIBAR • KINSHASA • JO’BURG

DID YOU
KNOW?