Activities for design aficionados A N O K H I MU S E UM OF HAND PRINTING BEST FOR: LEARNING ABOUT TEXTILES Charmingly situated in a restored haveli, the Anokhi Museum is the perfect introduction to Jaipur’s textile industry. Information boards are concise and excellently written, and the clothing on display is spectacular. Don’t forgo the on-site shop, and combine a visit with a trip to the UNESCO-listed Amber Fort, a remarkable walled fortification that rises above the city and is only a five-minute rickshaw ride from the museum. anokhimuseum.com JAWA H A R K A L A KENDRA CENTRE BEST FOR: ART AND THEATRE Just outside the Old City, Jaipur’s most prominent cultural centre was built to preserve Rajasthan’s rich heritage and master craftsmanship. Showcasing a wide range of both traditional and contemporary art, the space houses six galleries, as well as a museum, library and an open-air theatre with an ever-evolving programme, from plays to folk dance. It also hosts its own theatre festival. jkk.artandculture.rajasthan.gov.in CITY PALACE BEST FOR: ROYAL HERITAGE Still home to the royal family of Jaipur, this 300-year-old palace has lost none of its splendour. The complex of courtyards, gardens and buildings is a blend of Rajasthani and Mughal architecture, with some buildings added more recently than others. Among other things, the thoughtfully curated museum houses an extensive textile collection, featuring some of the elaborately woven, brocaded fabrics that formerly graced the royal wardrobe, as well as a carpet dating back over 400 years. royaljaipur.in TRIPOLIA BAZAAR BEST FOR: SHOPPING LOCAL One of Jaipur’s oldest markets, Tripolia Bazaar is a shopper’s paradise. You’ll find everything from traditional lac bangles — which are made from hardened resin — to wall hangings here, but keep a particular eye out for the blacksmiths. They’re a wondrous sight, all sitting outside their shops and seeming to hammer away in unison. If, like most, you’ve bought more than anticipated, you can purchase a beautifully crafted metal trunk to ship your treasures back in. TOP 8 Above from left: Block-printed fabric drying in Sanganer; a metalsmith hammers silver into silver leaf JAIPUR JUL/AUG 2023 151
Hawa Mahal City Palace Albert Hall Museum Jawahar Kala Kendra Centre Chokdi Gangapol Old City JAIPUR Sanghi Ji Temple, Sanganer 4 miles C Scheme Amber Fort 4 miles Tripolia Bazaar Johari Bazaar 1 mile INDIA Jaipur NEW DELHI ILLUSTRATION: JOHN PLUMER GETTING THERE & AROUND Air India, British Airways and Virgin Atlantic offer direct flights daily from Heathrow to Delhi’s Indira Gandhi International Airport. airindia.in ba.com virginatlantic.com Average flight time: 9h. From there, Spice Jet and Indigo offer cheap connecting flights to Jaipur. spicejet.com goindigo.in Alternatively, taxis take five hours and cost from around 4,120 INR (£40) to 6,180 INR (£60). You can explore much of Jaipur on foot. Book rickshaws on Uber. They’re cheap, but often cancelled so allow extra time. WHEN TO GO Avoid 40C-plus temperatures around May and June. Late October to midMarch is the perfect time to visit Jaipur when it’s hot and dry. Expect daytime temperatures of around 29C, rising to the low 30s as the year progresses. WHERE TO STAY The Johri, Old City. Doubles from 22,132 INR (£214). thejohrijaipur.com Villa Palladio, Jamdoli Chouraha. Doubles from 30,385 INR (£295). villa-palladio-jaipur.com 47 Jobner Bagh, Sindhi Camp. 14,424 INR (£140), B&B. jobnerbagh.com MORE INFO jaipurtourism.co.in incredibleindia.org pinkcityrickshawcompany.com Lonely Planet Rajasthan, Delhi & Agra. £15.99. Love Jaipur, Rajasthan, by Fiona Caulfield. £29.95. HOW TO DO IT India by Florence offers curated tours of Rajasthan, with a particular focus on Jaipur and its artisans. A 10-day trip including accommodation, private transfers and guiding costs from £3,995 per person. Flights can be included for an additional cost. indiabyflorence.co.uk BAR PALLADIO BEST FOR: TAKING TIME OUT Surrounded by the peacock-dotted lawns of Narain Niwas Palace, Bar Palladio, with its tented daybeds and vivid-blue frescoes, may just be the most visually arresting restaurant in the world. The menu has an Italian slant: expect beautifully authentic pasta dishes, plus an extensive — and potent — selection of cocktails; the margaritas are particularly good. Consider a stay at its sister property just outside the city, hotel Villa Palladio, too. bar-palladio.com villa-palladio-jaipur.com HAWA M AHAL BEST FOR: ARCHITECTURAL WONDER The ‘Palace of Winds’ has a staggering 953 windows. Part of the City Palace complex and used in the past as an enormous screened porch for royals to watch the world go by, the Hawa Mahal’s five-story facade is mesmerising, a silencing work of art that rises above the streets of the Old City. Visit early in the morning before the crowds descend. BLOCK PRINTING WORKSHOP BEST FOR: LEARNING A NEW SKILL Feeling creative? A workshop is a great way to get a feel for the printing process. You’ll work alongside local artisans, choosing your own blocks and colour scheme. There are scores of companies providing the experience, but consider one of the sessions offered by the Wabisabi Project, which include a peek at the drying fields and plenty of chai to keep that creative energy flowing. wabisabiproject.com SAURASHTRA IMPEX BEST FOR: BESPOKE CLOTHING This little shop in the north west of the city, which featured in Vogue back in 2016, sells a joyous selection of textiles. Expect an explosion of colour and a charismatic owner keen to show you his wares, or if you have clothing that you want in different shades, take it with you and you can have copies made in a couple of days. Just be sure to haggle — but with a smile. saurashtra-impex.business.site Left: Villa Palladio, sister property of Bar Palladio, is just outside the city JAIPUR 152 NATIONALGEOGRAPHIC.COM/TRAVEL
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A transformation of the Western Australian capital has seen a revitalised riverfront and laneways, cultural developments and closer ties with the port of Fremantle WORDS: EMMA THOMSON PERTH CITY LIFE
IMAGE: ALAMY It’s hard to believe now, but Perth was dubbed ‘Dullsville’ back in 2000. The city has spent the last two decades flipping the script. Wrapped around the broad blue swathe of the Swan River, its streets have an egofree blend of street art, speakeasy-style bars and excellent restaurants headed up by top chefs. It’s home to an oddly charming clash of old and new architecture, from the mock-Tudor alleyway of shops called London Court, comparable to Diagon Alley in Harry Potter, to the skyline of mirrored skyscrapers. Oh, and this is Australia’s sunniest state capital — with an urban green space bigger than New York’s Central Park. Its refashioning started a decade ago when construction of Elizabeth Quay broke ground, transforming the riverfront into an illuminated pedestrianised loop, lined with restaurants and hotels. For the first time in a century, the government buried the train tracks separating the nightlife hub of Northbridge and the Central Business District (CBD) and connected the two with the new Yagan Square. This is named after a Nyoongar warrior in recognition of the Whadjuk Nyoongar, the traditional owners of the region. The area now also breezily merges with the little-sister suburb of Fremantle (‘Freo’), whose lively calendar of artistic and musical offerings set amid gold rush and convict-era heritage buildings make it the place to hang out on weekends. City officials have taken a leaf out of Melbourne’s book and zhooshed up the laneways — previously dingy alleys and forgotten spaces — inviting a range of WA-based artists to transform blank walls with art. You might spy the haunting black-and-white figures by legendary graffiti artist Stormie Mills in unexpected corners, or the thought-provoking murals of Indigenous artist Kambarni. The reasonable cost of liquor licences also allows passionate bartenders to open their own spots that reflect their individual passions. Perth is one of the world’s most remote cities, but with 50 miles of white-sand Indian Ocean beaches stretching either side of it and an ever-evolving reinvention of public spaces and events, you won’t feel it. Dull doesn’t factor into it. JUL/AUG 2023 155
IMAGES: TOURISM WESTERN AUSTRALIA; OH HEY WA Miles apart Perth is closer to the Indonesian capital of Jakarta than it is to Sydney, or the Australian capital Canberra S E E & D O OH HEY WA: There’s no better way of getting to know a city than putting trainers to cement. Vivacious local sisters, Adie and Robyn Chapman, crackle with enthusiasm on their walking tours, uncovering quirky corners of art in the laneways while delivering a punchy historical overview. The best bit? They have such a rich stream of connections that they don’t just take you to the newest bars and restaurants — they’ll have you hobnobbing with the owners over cocktails. ohheywa.com.au WA MUSEUM BOOLA BARDIP: Boola Bardip means ‘many stories’ in Whadjuk Nyoongar — the regional Aboriginal language — and that’s exactly what’s on offer at this unmissable museum. Start with the groundfloor display of Western Australia’s Aboriginal culture, then seek out Otto — the 79ft-long blue whale skeleton found on Busselton beach in 1897. museum.wa.gov.au/boolabardip GOGO ACTIVE TOURS: Slip into the Swan River on a ‘Cliffs and Caves’ inflatable kayaking tour that explores a side of the city few see. This gentle two-hour paddle is led by Matt Baldock and Kevin Lampard, whose narrative of the city’s history is brilliantly interrupted by cameos from cormorants, Australian darters and — if you’re lucky — grey bottlenose dolphins. The clear waters are even home to a resident seahorse colony. gogoactivetours.com.au SALT & BUSH ECO TOURS: Spray on the mossie repellent and join naturalist Jamie Van Jones — named 2022 Top Tour Guide of Australia in national tourism awards — and geologist husband Base on a nocturnal walk in Yalgorup National Park, just over an hour’s drive south of the city. Spy kangaroos, bandicoots, Perth-native Tuart trees and ringtail and brushtail possums. saltandbush.com.au M ATAGARUP ZIP+CLIMB: It’s hard to miss the brightly coloured Matagarup Bridge that, come night, lights up Perth’s skyline like a rainbow serpent. Shimmy, climb and crawl your way to the top, where there’s a sky-view platform, and then descend on a zipline 1,312ft across the Swan River. It’s Perth’s newest adrenaline fix and suitable for children aged eight and upwards. zipclimb.com.au ROTTNEST ISLAND: This sunny, mostly car-free isle just off the coast of Perth welcomes 800,000 visitors annually, who come to see the world’s so-called happiest animal — the quokka. Locals come for the holiday cottages and the chance to pedal between sandy coves and spy fur seals and migrating whales offshore. The million-dollar refurbishment of the Wadjemup Museum, opened during lockdown, tells the story of the island’s history, including its 19th-century prison. You can catch a Sealink ferry from the city. rottnestisland.com Clockwise from top left: View of the city skyline; food from Fremantle Markets; Wadjemup Lighthouse on Rottnest; there’s a whole host of water-based activities on Perth’s rivers; a street art tour Previous pages: Elizabeth Quay with Spanda, a public artwork by Christian de Vietri PERTH JUL/AUG 2023 157
SLEEP £ HOSTEL G PERTH: In the centre of Perth, this high-end, design-led hostel offers a mix of shared and private rooms. Come for the buzzing social spaces, including a café/bar serving toasties and craft beer and a cinema room with tiered cushion areas. hostelgperth.com £ £ WARDERS HOTEL: The former home of warders for the now UNESCO-listed Fremantle Prison, this historical row of limestone cottages has been repurposed as a hotel. Boutique rooms have quaint features and come with vouchers for a breakfast pastry and coffee from the attached bar, Gimlet. wardershotel.com.au £ £ £ THE RITZ- CARLTON PERTH: A beacon of shimmering copper in prime position on Elizabeth Quay, the Ritz is flawless. Of the different room styles — all with Frette linens and Asprey toiletries — plump for Swan River King Studios with a curve of floor-to-ceiling views. Watch sunset from the Songbird rooftop bar, refresh in the open-air vitality pools and book dinner at the Hearth’s open grill. ritzcarlton.com BUY FOUND: Squirrelled away on the grounds of the Fremantle Arts Centre, FOUND sells the creations of WA-based artists, from ceramics and woodworks to books and art. Visit on a Sunday between October and March and you can browse to the soundtrack of free concerts by touring and local bands performing in the centre’s beautiful front garden. shop.fac.org.au FI & CO: Lovers of vintage should make a beeline for this bijou shop, beloved of locals in Northbridge. They come for its urbane and curated selection of vintage and pre-loved clothes, crates of vinyl records, soy candles and cold-pressed soaps. instagram.com/fiandco JAPINGK A ABORIGINAL ART: If you want to invest in Aboriginal Australian art, this is the place to start. Displaying the works of Indigenous artists from across Australia, this gallery sells mesmerising canvases. Many of them are vast, but there are smaller, suitcase-friendly pieces too. Prices range from the thousands to under A$300 (£160). japingkaaboriginalart.com Clockwise from top: Hearth Restaurant on Elizabeth Quay; the signature cocktail at Songbird; shopping in the CBD; Danica Wichtermann ceramics at FOUND; bartender Anne-Sophie making a fruity gin cocktail at the bar, Warders Hotel IMAGES: LOUISE COGHILL; ALAMY PERTH 158 NATIONALGEOGRAPHIC.COM/TRAVEL
million acres of wildland in the Bighorns, encompassing 1,200 miles of trails, 30 campgrounds, lodges, ranches, and waterways. Frontier History. Cowboy Heritage. Craft CULTURE. The Great Outdoors. The Nature of the West. 1.1 restaurants, bars, food trucks, breweries and tap rooms are spread across Sheridan County. That’s a lot of après adventure in the craft capital of Wyoming. 101 seasons in which to get WYO’d. Summer and winter both feature epic rodeos. Spring and fall are the perfect time to chase cool mountain streams or epic backcountry lines. 4 Sheridan features a historic downtown district, with western allure and good graces to spare; vibrant arts scene; robust events calendar; and living history on every corner. ∞ sheridanwyoming.org sheridanwyoming.org
IMAGE: TOURISM WESTERN AUSTRALIA Local talent Isla Fisher, Tim Minchin and the late Heath Ledger were all raised in Perth, while Hugh Jackman studied acting there EAT £ YOUNG GEORGE: This restaurant with black-and-white decor, just south of the river, is named after the brother of AC/DC’s lead guitarist Angus Young — whose hit song Highway to Hell was based on the nearby Canning Highway. Run by chef Melissa Palinkas and her wife Susan Wheelan, it offers mains and great-value sharing plates with a dash of Asian flair. The ramen-fried chicken milk bun is unmissable. younggeorge.com.au £ £ E MI LY TAYLOR: Named after an 1800s ship that sailed from England to Fremantle via Asia, this hangout in the Warders Hotel has upbeat funk music, fruity cocktails and a fast-served fusion menu. Try the lobsterand-truffle dumplings and coconut-based massaman curry. emilytaylorbar.com.au £ £ £ ANY: A newcomer with a bijou cocktail bar whose motion-sensor door slides back to reveal an intimate dining room and open kitchen ruled by the dynamic Josh Gray — one of Perth’s rising star chefs. Ditch the a la carte options, grab a barstool at the open kitchen and splurge on the delectable five-course tasting menu that changes with the seasons. anydining.com.au Above: Emily Taylor at The Warders Hotel serves Asian-inspired cuisine AFTER HOURS TERRARIUM: Barely a year old and already a firm favourite with locals, this city-centre two-level kitchen, bar and terrace combines owner and award-winning bartender Xander’s love of booze and partner Verity’s love of plants. Be sure to try the Ananas, a twist on a dirty martini starring pickled pineapple. terrariumperth.com REPUBLIC OF FREMANTLE: Jason Townes and friends Matt Giudice and John McVeigh set up this gin distillery using two-storey-high brass stills from Germany. The refined on-site bar prepares faultless martinis and sumptuous small plates, such as pickled mussels and buttermilk-soaked leeks, rustled up by Emily Jones, the 2021 Best Young Chef of the Year. republicoffremantle.com FOXTROT UNICORN: Housed in an underground 1887 bank vault and decked out like a hunting cabin with Chesterfield couches and stuffed animals, Foxtrot avoids being kitschy because their bartenders are reputed to shake, or stir, the best cocktails in town. Try one with a toasted cheese sandwich, to stop things getting too highfalutin’. foxtrotunicorn.com PERTH JUL/AUG 2023 161
S w a n R i v e r Matagarup Bridge London Court Oh Hey WA WA Museum Boola Bardip Elizabeth Quay Northbridge Kings Park and Botanic Garden CBD PERTH Fremantle Markets 5 miles ½ mile AUSTRALIA CANBERRA Perth Sydney INDIAN OCEAN IMAGE: LOUISE COGHILL. ILLUSTRATION: JOHN PLUMER GETTING THERE & AROUND Qantas offers direct flights between Heathrow and Perth. qantas.com Average flight time: 17h. Emirates, Qatar and British Airways all currently require a transfer. emirates.com qatar.com ba.com Central Perth is compact and walkable thanks to its many pedestrianised sections. You can also use the city’s free Central Area Transit (CAT) bus service that loops to Fremantle past the CBD’s main sights. Bike hire points are located at Point Fraser and Kings Park and Botanic Garden. transperth.wa.gov.au Hertz and Dollar Car have car rental offices on Murray Street and Budget and Avis on Hay Street, a short walk from Perth train station and the WA Museum Boola Bardip. As in the UK, Australians drive on the left-hand side of the road. hertz.com.au dollarcarrental.com.au budget.com.au avis.com.au. WHEN TO GO One of the sunniest cities in the world, Perth is enjoyable at most times of year. Even at the height of summer (from December to February), when the mercury pushes past 30C, it never feels uncomfortable — thanks to the ‘Freo Doctor,’ a cooling sea breeze that visits in summer afternoons. Temperatures in winter (from June to August) never fall below 8C. MORE INFO destinationperth.com.au visitperth.com westernaustralia.com HOW TO DO IT Travelbag offers a seven-night trip to Perth staying at the five-star Pan Pacific Perth in the CBD on a roomonly basis from £1,799 per person, including return flights with Malaysia Airlines. travelbag.co.uk LIKE A LOCAL NYOONGAR DANCE: Every Saturday at 11am, Aboriginal Nyoongar performers put on a free 45-minute boomerang dance and smoking ceremony outside WA Museum Boola Bardip to showcase their culture and history. It always stops locals and visitors in their tracks. visit.museum.wa.gov.au MOONLIGHT CINEMA: From Tuesday to Sunday in summer, pack a picnic and head to Kings Park and Botanic Garden after dark to watch screenings of films from blockbusters to corny classics beneath the starry sky. Hire bean-bag beds for extra comfort. Book ahead. moonlight.com.au FREMANTLE MARKETS: One of Australia’s last remaining market halls, this 1897 institution is well known, but still the place to spend a Saturday or Sunday sipping Bloody Mary’s while listening to buskers, or shopping for boho dresses and fresh fruit. fremantlemarkets.com.au Fremantle Markets has been running since 1897 PERTH 162 NATIONALGEOGRAPHIC.COM/TRAVEL
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Where do you recommend as a base for sightseeing on Italy’s Ligurian coast? The Ligurian Riviera — the stretch of shoreline running from the French border south towards Tuscany — is home to some of Italy’s most beautiful coastal enclaves. Along with the jewel-like bay of Portofino — tiny in stature but enormously expensive to visit — one of its stellar sights is Cinque Terre. These ‘five lands’ are a string of cheerily painted seaside villages terraced into sheer cliffs rising off deep bays. A road links these once-isolated idylls, but attempting it in packed summer months will result in sweaty frustration. Take the train on a shore-hugging route from La Spezia, heading north via all five villages, with jaw-dropping coastal views in between. Or catch the ferry (March to November). navigazionegolfodeipoeti.it A UNESCO World Heritage Site, Cinque Terre is beloved of hikers and day-trippers, but to soak up its character do more than just pass through. Monterosso al Mare has beach resort vibes and the widest choice of accommodation; clifftop Corniglia, the smallest, enjoys tranquil evenings once the day-trippers have left; Vernazza and Manarola, with their muchphotographed cliffside houses, and the southernmost village of Riomaggiore, with its teeny wedge of a harbour, are busiest. Stay at Corte del Gallo, a lovely B&B in Corniglia, as a base for two or three nights and explore on foot via 75 miles of trails. Doubles from €172 (£150), B&B. cortedelgallo.com At the Riviera’s north, the elegant towns of Ventimiglia and Sanremo have buzzy beaches, boardwalks and hotels for all budgets: ideal bases for side trips to the port city of Genoa. With its Renaissance-era palaces, medieval alleyways and Renzo Piano-designed harbour, Genoa is one of Italy’s most underrated cities. Museums in ‘la Superba’ explore its Columbus heritage, while hole-in-the-wall focaccerias sell farinata (chickpea bread) and pizza topped with pesto, a sauce the region is famed for. Alassio, between Sanremo and Genoa, is sleepier with a lovely beach. East of Genoa, half way to Cinque Terre, the town of Sestri Levante, astride a sandy isthmus, is beautiful enough to have charmed Hans Christian Andersen when he stayed in 1833. Of them all, Alassio is best for its pine-backed shores. Family-run Hotel Savoia offers a private beach. Doubles from €140 (£120), B&B. hotelsavoia.it SARAH BARRELL ASK THE EXPERTS TR AVEL TALK NEED ADVICE FOR YOUR NE X T TRIP ? ARE YOU AF TER RECOM MENDATION S, TIPS AND GUIDANCE? OUR E XPERTS HAVE THE AN SWERS... Sarah Barrell Senior editor at National Geographic Traveller (UK) Alia Khalid Tour design manager at Into Japan Specialist Tours Sue Bryant Cruise writer TH E EXPERTS Clockwise from above: Vernazza’s tumble of cliffside houses in Cinque Terre; watch seals on a no-fly cruise of the Inner Hebrides; Japan’s Kenrokuen garden in Kanazawa is not to be missed IMAGES: GETTY; AWL IMAGES Ben Clatworthy Transport and travel correspondent at The Times 164 NATIONALGEOGRAPHIC.COM/TRAVEL
I’d like to try an affordable no-fly cruise from the UK — what are the best options? No-fly cruising from the UK has really taken off, with a wealth of itineraries to choose from. If you like the idea of a tiny ship, look to Scotland. There are dozens of no-fly cruises around the Hebrides, although these can veer towards the luxurious/expensive. Responsible Travel, though, has a range of reasonably priced Hebrides cruises on small ships carrying up to 11 passengers. You’ll sail from Oban and spend a week exploring the lochs and sounds of the Inner Hebrides, looking out for seals, basking sharks and golden eagles. responsibletravel.com For a more conventional cruise, Fred Olsen’s classic fleet sails from Newcastle, Southampton and Liverpool and can whisk you in style to Northern France, around the British Isles, or to the Norwegian fjords, all for under £1,000 per person. The ships carry around 1,300 people and are nimble enough to sail where bigger ships can’t go, such as along the Seine as far as medieval Rouen. Several Norway and Scotland cruises have wildlife guides on board, helping to spot whales and dolphins. fredolsencruises.com Or how about a no-fly river cruise in continental Europe? Companies like Riviera Travel offer options to travel on Eurostar to join your ship. Spring cruises from Amsterdam to explore the Dutch bulbfields are affordable, as is a week on the Seine sailing from Paris through the Normandy countryside. You’ll travel on a comfortable riverboat carrying around 140 people. rivieratravel.co.uk SUE BRYANT I’m planning on taking a ferry from Dover to Europe this summer but want to know my rights if I’m faced with delays at the port. What do I need to know? Once again, queues caused delays at the Port of Dover over Easter, largely due to the extra time it now takes to carry out post-Brexit passport checks. It’s about 90 seconds per car — over double the previous time. The problem is worst at Dover for two reasons: it’s the UK’s busiest passenger port and is constrained due of its position, tucked between the sea and cliffs. The bad news is that protection for holidaymakers is limited when the delays are ‘on land’ and not the fault of the operator. If you’re delayed at the border, though, most companies will endeavour to get you on the next available sailing. The good news is this works especially well at Dover, which always funnels vehicles onto the next departure. Check the latest information with your ferry operator on the day of departure, particularly how far in advance to arrive at the port. There’s protection if the delay or cancellation is the fault of the ferry line, although exceptions — notably around bad weather — apply. You’re entitled to to 25% compensation if your ship is delayed by over an hour on crossings under four hours. This doubles if the delay is more than two hours. Once delayed by 90 minutes or more, you should also be offered either rerouting or a refund. The line also has a duty of care to provide food and, if necessary, accommodation. BEN CLATWORTHY I really want to explore rural Japan. Which locations would you recommend for a two-week trip? I’d explore the Chūbu and Chūgoku regions on Honshū, the largest island. From Tokyo, take the Hokuriku Shinkansen bullet train north west to Karuizawa for a brief stop to explore the forest guided by bear conservationists. Then continue to the city of Iiyama, which is a good base to see the snow monkeys, and on to Togari-Nozawa Onsen station, where you can hike with a mountain monk. After Iiyama, head to the city of Kanazawa for Kenrokuen, one of the great gardens of Japan. Between Kanazawa and Kyōto, to the south, the train has epic views of Lake Biwa. Spend some time in Kyōto, then head west on the bullet train to see Iwakuni’s wooden Kintaikyō bridge, Onomichi’s breathtaking coastal Shimanami Kaidō cycle route, Kurashiki’s romantic canals and the arty Setouchi Islands. You could also visit Hiroshima’s Sandankyō Gorge or Tomonoura, the port town that inspired Studio Ghibli’s 2008 animated fantasy film Ponyo. If travelling by car, branch off in Chūbu to explore the rural crafts town of Inami, or as a bigger diversion after Kyōto, you could also see the San’in region, with its impressive Tottori Sand Dunes and Izumo Taisha shrine. The adventurous can head to Kyūshū island for Hiraodai’s otherworldly limestone landscapes, and to Shikoku island’s Iya Valley, with its vine-rope bridges. intojapan.co.uk ALIA KHALID JUL/AUG 2023 165
IMAGES: ALAMY; GETTY. WORDS: RORY GOULDING A S LONDON GE ARS UP TO HOST THE NOT TING HILL CARNIVAL THIS AUGUST, WE LOOK AT THE CARIBBEAN ROOTS OF EUROPE’S BIGGEST STREET PART Y Caribbean Carnival THE INFO Sources: cpi.nmsu.edu discovertnt.com nhcarnival.org ttpanetwork.com The typical number of attendees at Notting Hill Carnival over its two-day run Short for ‘masquerade’, these bands of costumed dancers form the core of Carnival and compete for the year’s ‘best-dressed’ prize The number of mas bands on the streets of Notting Hill on the Monday of Carnival To ‘play mas’, you need to join a band and dress in their style. It’s thought one million man-hours are needed to make Notting Hill Carnival’s 15,000 costumes The number of notes a traditional tenor steelpan can play; a piano can play 88 Carnival’s traditional sound is of calypso played on a steelpan. The instrument originated around 1940 from oil drums with the base beaten concave The estimated amount of body paint used across the Carnival weekend There are over 300 food stalls at Notting Hill Carnival, with Jamaican jerk chicken the main event. Its seasoning is made from allspice and scotch bonnets 1-2 million Mas 70 Costumes 29 Steelpans 30 litres Jerk IN NUMBERS THE MAKINGS OF A CARNIVAL ORIGINS Starting as a festival in medieval Europe, Carnival took on a new form in the Caribbean from the early 19th century, drawing on traditions introduced by both enslaved Africans and those who were emancipated later London calling The precursor to Notting Hill was a ‘Caribbean Carnival’ held indoors in St Pancras Town Hall in 1959. The first outdoor Carnival took place in 1966 TR AVEL TALK 166 NATIONALGEOGRAPHIC.COM/TRAVEL
A graceful tail fluke slipping beneath the surface, a mist of spray hanging on the horizon, a vast shape sliding into view beyond a ship’s bow — there’s no denying the appeal of whale-watching. While the activity is usually associated with long-haul destinations, it can be enjoyed close to home. Orcas can be seen as locally as the Shetland Islands, as Sir David Attenborough’s Wild Isles series on BBC One showed. Sightings of humpbacks, meanwhile, once a rarity in UK waters, have been increasing, with more than 75 recorded by Cornwall Wildlife Trust since 2019. A humpback was also spotted off the Kent coast earlier this year. With more and more companies around the world offering boat trips to catch a glimpse of the elusive creatures, whale-watching has become a multi-billionpound industry. But not all offer a responsible experience. Poor practice can lead to a stressful experience for the marine mammals, altering their feeding patterns, separating calves from their mothers or forcing them to dive unnecessarily and swim more quickly. Choosing a trip to avoid such issues can be tricky, but there are ways to mitigate your impact. Why is it difficult to regulate? Because whale species and coastal communities vary from region to region, regulations and resources differ. What works in the Azores, for instance, may not work in Norway. “Unfortunately, there’s no single, international set of whalewatching guidelines,” says Danny Glover, spokesperson for Whale and Dolphin Conservation (WDC). “In some places, regulations govern whale-watching with legal enforcement or there may be a voluntary code of conduct, relying on operators’ goodwill. There are also areas where whale-watching HOT TOPIC A multi-billion-pound industry, whale-watching tourism can be littleregulated around the world. So how do you choose a responsible operator? WHALE-WATCHING is completely unmanaged, with nothing to prevent irresponsible operators from harassing whales to get their passengers as close as possible.” Can tourism ever do good? Tourism isn’t all bad news for whales. At the very least, whalewatching can help nurture a love for cetaceans and can highlight pressing issues such as pollution, ship strikes, net entanglements and ocean warming. In many instances, tour boats are the first line of defence when it comes to spotting and reporting incidents. They can also collect important data. Humpbacks, for example, have patterns on the undersides of their tail flukes that are individual to each whale (just as fingerprints are to humans), and photos uploaded by the public to the Happywhale app can help researchers plot whale migrations. Such data has enabled speed restrictions to be implemented on busy marine routes where whales are vulnerable to ship strikes. Whale-watching tourism can also encourage the economic transition from commercial whaling in countries like Iceland, where some 350,000 visitors take whale-watching trips each year, generating €20m (£17m) annually. What does an ethical trip look like? “A good trip is one that’s not only enjoyable, educational and safe for the passengers, but also treats the whales being watched with care and respect,” says Glover. In other words, a responsible experience is one that puts whales first. “We’re uninvited guests in their world and privileged to see them; we have a responsibility to cause as little disturbance as possible.” This means vessels should approach the animals slowly and never head-on, and should keep at least 100 metres away at all times. A top-tier trip will include a marine biologist, who can add context to sightings and ensure the animals’ wellbeing. Avoid trips that offer the chance to swim with and touch whales; according to the WDC, it can cause stress for the animals. How do I choose? The WDC, the International Whaling Commission (IWC) and the World Cetacean Alliance (WCA) provide guides for good practice. It’s also easy to find reviews about whale-watching operators, even if certified accreditation remains somewhat arbitrary. Look for companies based around marine sanctuaries or Whale Heritage Sites (part of a global programme run by the WCA). According to WCA honorary president Jean-Michel Cousteau, Whale Heritage Sites are a gold standard for responsible whalewatching worldwide, as operators within them will be accredited. M A R K S T R AT TO N A N D A N N E KIM-DANNIBALE Humpback whale breaching in Queen Charlotte Strait, Canada TR AVEL TALK JUL/AUG 2023 167
The number of people concerned about their health and wellbeing has rocketed since the pandemic began. The stats are legion but among them, 80% of those surveyed by Public Health England in 2020 — in the first year of Covid-19 — reported wanting to change their lifestyle in 2021 to become healthier. Meanwhile, an Ipsos study in 2021 noted that 62% of Americans believe health is more important to them than before the pandemic. And this has, as countless more reports will attest, changed the way many of us want to travel. Just over a fifth (21%) of global travellers are currently travelling for health- and wellness-driven reasons according to the 2022 Travel Trends research by luxury travel network Virtuoso, conducted jointly with YouGov. And its findings suggest this is likely to grow in 2023, with 29% of global travellers stating interest in travelling for wellness reasons in the future. Trends include travel to reconnect — with friends, family, partners or children — and a growing focus on sleep wellness. The research notes ‘the rise in apps like Calm and Headspace permeating travel products, providing flyers the ability to plug in and meditate while in flight’ — not to mention the growing number of sleep retreats aimed at aiding insomniacs. “Health and wellness technology is moving forward at a very fast pace and creating exciting new possibilities that we’re exploring, from sleep therapy and guided meditation to dynamic REPORT HAVING ESCAPED THE CONFINES OF THE SPA , WELLNESS NOW INFLUENCES THE TR AVEL E XPERIENCE FAR AND WIDE, OFFERING NEW WAYS TO DISCOVER THE WORLD. WORDS: SAR AH BARRELL THE RI SE OF WELLNE S S TR AVEL bathing, cryotherapy and infrared saunas,” says Emlyn Brown, vice president of wellbeing at Accor, Europe’s largest hospitality and hotels company, which released the Health to Wealth white paper earlier this year. “Guests now come to us loaded with their own health data,” says Brown of the ubiquity of smartwatches and fitness apps. “We’re exploring ways that we can create bespoke wellness experiences for our guests in spa, nutrition, fitness and sleep.” Accor’s Fairmont Windsor Park hotel, for example, is home to the UK’s first spa multi-person cryotherapy chamber. Hotels Pullman Paris Centre-Bercy and Pullman San Francisco Bay, meanwhile, equip guests with Dreem, a technology wearable that monitors breathing, brain waves, heart rate and sleeping patterns. Wellness travel is clearly no longer something that’s confined to the spa, but it’s travelled far beyond the hotel, too. “Wellness travel has evolved and expanded to encapsulate all manner of experiences that boost travellers’ mental and physical health,” says Paul Joseph, founder of Health and Fitness Travel, a specialist tour operator for wellness breaks. “Far from the ‘fly and flop’ wellness holidays of old, we’re able to send customers on a hand-picked retreat that includes a tailored wellness programme — from personalised nutrition and exercise plans to one-on-one coaching and holistic healing therapies. Following the pandemic and in spite of the cost-of-living crisis, we’ve seen a marked increase in bookings.” It’s what Expedia is calling a ‘no-normal’ era of wellness travel. “We’re seeing a new wave of interest in wellness retreats, and a spike in demand for outdoor destinations beyond beaches and mountains,” says Jon Gieselman, president of Expedia Brands. “Not a new normal, but people branching out to unexpected trends: the ‘no-normal’.” The travel brand has seen a 30% increase in demand for wellness breaks between 2021 and 2022, and found that almost half (46%) of global travellers are more open to wellness breaks than ever before. And the quirkier, the better. Expedia’s Travel Trends report reveals activities as diverse as sylvotherapy (forest bathing), food bootcamps, chakra sessions, puppy yoga and laughter therapy were more popular than some standard spa offerings. So, what exactly does ‘wellness’ mean today? According to the Global Wellness Institute (GWI) — the US-non-profit offshoot of the Global Wellness Summit, which has been driving research and business across the industry since 2007 — the term is varied. It can be associated with fitness holidays and adventure travel focused around improving a sense of wellbeing or life balance, along with the obvious mind and body retreats. And it’s a booming sector. GWI projects a 9.9% average annual growth in the wellness economy between now and 2025, when it will reach nearly $7 trillion (£5.5 trillion). 170 NATIONALGEOGRAPHIC.COM/TRAVEL
IMAGE: MARCUS WESTBERG Responsible Travel’s rewilding and yoga holiday in Sweden JUL/AUG 2023 171
Add some green and blue to your vacation! Photo: F. Šimićev, A. Gospić
IMAGE: GETTY F I V E T Y P E S O F Wellness travel REWILDING Not trees but trips that get travellers out into nature to go foraging, learn about medicinal plants and explore the backcountry on foot or by bike, kayaking rivers and wild swimming. YO G A Try yoga with goats or puppies as companions, taking meditative hikes between sessions or with a side of surfing to hone balance and mindfulness. SYLVOTHER APY Forest bathing ignites the senses and calms the mind, with outdoor spas, barefoot walking, meditation and chromotherapy (tuning into the forest’s uniquely filtered light). PILGRIMAGES Old routes are being revitalised, with an increased interest from travellers who are seeking journeys with meaning, which could be a personal challenge or spiritual awakening as much as religious devotion. D O PA M I N E DESTINATIONS Boost your body’s feel-good hormones with a trip that offers a dramatic change of scenery, where you can flood your senses with perfumed flora, high-contrast colours and temperatures that invigorate or soothe. Meanwhile, US-based non-profit the Wellness Tourism Association (WTA) was founded in 2018 with the aim of bringing standards to the growing wellness sector of the tourism industry, and defines wellness travel as simply that which allows the traveller ‘to maintain, enhance or kick-start a healthy lifestyle, and support or increase one’s sense of wellbeing’. “What constitutes a wellbeing holiday is subjective,” says Justin Francis, co-founder and CEO of activist holiday company Responsible Travel. “I’d say a painting holiday in the Scottish Highlands or a wild camping experience can be as much about wellness as a vegan Pilates retreat. Wellness holidays simply allow you to rest and revive in your own way, mentally and physically.” The company has added numerous nature-based holidays to its offering since the pandemic, in response to rising demand. It notes that activities like river kayaking are becoming more popular, and that interest in trips that give customers a chance to really focus on their physical wellbeing has risen almost 100% in the last five years. “We’re all much more attuned to the benefits of switching off our phones and being outdoors,” says Francis. Active relaxation It’s clear that well before the pandemic hit, our travel habits were changing. A McKinsey report in 2021 noted that 79% of respondents believed wellness was important, and 42% considered it a top priority, but in the preceding two to three years consumers in every market it researched reported a substantial increase (from 27% to 65%) in the prioritisation of wellness. Within the last decade, yoga mats have become the norm in hip hotels and gym access a hospitality standard, while spa-focused accommodation is ever-expanding. Sports travel, with its tangible benefits and measurable outcomes — such as the number of miles hiked — is a thriving area of wellness. This boom in so-called ‘endorphin tourism’ attracts travellers seeking trips that give them a natural high — from desert marathons to trail running in the mountains. In Europe, the Alps have become something of an outdoor wellness playground. A 2020 report for France Montagnes, an association promoting French Alpine tourism, states that up to 70% of travellers see the mountains as a synonym for wellness. “For several years now, and particularly since the post-Covid period, the mountains have been popular with visitors looking for Yoga can be a key part of wellness travel TR AVEL TALK JUL/AUG 2023 173
IMAGE: GETTY Changing habits A McKinsey report in 2021 noted that 79% of respondents believed wellness was important, and 42% considered it a top priority MORE INFO healthandfitnesstravel.com globalwellnessinstitute.org responsibletravel.com wellnesstourismassociation.org ramblers.org.uk onthebeach.co.uk tui.co.uk/holidays/tui-blue an escape, nature and wellbeing, alongside more sporting activities,” says association president Jean-Luc Boch. The activities on offer range from the expectedly athletic to such specialisms as communing with nature while learning how to herd goats, meditative waterfall bathing, guided foraging for medicinal plants and mindful marathon running. Cycling holidays have also boomed, with weekend/leisure bikers increasing between 30% and 60% across the UK and Europe between 2019 and 2022, according to European Parliament estimates. And surfing is seeing similar spikes in popularity. The International Surfing Association reported that around 35 million people surf worldwide, a figure it forecast to rise to 50 million by 2020, though it’s yet to release numbers. Whatever that number is, it looks set to increase further if the NHS starts adding to its ‘green prescriptions’ — issued for people to improve their mental and physical health by spending time outdoors in nature — by prescribing surfing as a treatment. A 2022 trial by select NHS trusts in England looked into the benefits of surfing for young adults with mental health issues. Our increased state of ‘permanxiety’, be it fuelled by the stresses of modern life, lack of access to nature, economic instability, political turmoil or climate change, may be alleviated by travelling to immerse ourselves in the natural world, be it forest bathing, cold water swimming or mindful hiking. Travel, it seems, can be a proposition for salvation, not least among the booming number of people making pilgrimages. Both mainstream walking-tour operators and religious organisations are reporting soaring interest in such popular routes as the Camino de Santiago, with pilgrimages offering the chance for a hike to connect with yourself with others and with nature, even if religious beliefs don’t come into play. But for some, this is exactly what travel, at its best, has always been about. Wellness was not something you singled out, found in a spa or were prescribed, but was about finding yourself out in the world, making connections with others or spending time in the great outdoors. Wellness was integral to the kind of travel that happened as slowly as time and money allowed, staying local, exploring on foot. Walking, for one, is something British travellers have long seen as vital to their health and wellbeing. Ramblers, a charity founded in the wake of the 1932 mass trespass on the Duke of Devonshire’s Kinder Scout grouse moors in Derbyshire, has received lottery funding in recent years for its Walking for Health initiative. The programme has seen some 70,000 people discover the benefits of a hike. For many of us, working from home or a hybrid approach to work life has simply allowed more opportunities to do the things we enjoy. And the travel industry has responded with almost limitless options. Wellness has even infiltrated the traditional sand and sea resort-based breaks. Package tour operator On the Beach, for example, has curated a list of ‘dopamine-inducing’ destinations — places that boost the body’s natural feel-good factor with high-contrast colours and all-senses stimulation. Think: blue-and-white Greek island villages fragrant with wild thyme and oregano, or high-colour sights and jasmineperfumed smells of Morocco. Even Tui, one of the world’s largest holiday companies, is getting in on the act. It launched curated wellness breaks last year, a programme that partnered with television personality Davina McCall as a spokesperson for its ‘find your happy’ campaign. And in some ways, that’s what travel has always been about: getting away from it all, recharging, taking a break from the norm. But as travel and wellness become ever-more inexorably linked, our choices on exactly how we find our happy have become more nuanced and focused, immersing us in the outside world to soothe our inner one. Whether it’s working with a goat farmer in Morzine or running a marathon in a desert. Activities such as river kayaking are becoming more popular 174 NATIONALGEOGRAPHIC.COM/TRAVEL TR AVEL TALK
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IMAGES: GETTY; ALAMY Italy With its medieval heritage, world-renowned cuisine and the Apennine Mountains on its doorstep, Bologna and its surrounds are a riotous feast. Words: Kerry Walker Bologna & beyond Bologna is Italy in a nutshell — often overlooked but ready to be discovered: a medieval beauty in mellow stone, with its regal palazzi, gothic basilicas and miles of UNESCO-listed walkways where you can stroll, or sip an espresso or aperitivo and watch the world drift by. Linger in any food market, such as the famous and historic Quadrilatero, and you’ll be presented with the most eff usive welcome and nuanced choice from small producers off ering traditional delicacies that span generations. Incredible regional produce lands on Bologna’s plate: wafer-thin, melt-inthe-mouth Parma ham; crumbly, nutty parmigiano reggiano; and pignoletto wines with zing and fi zz. The city adds in its own culinary showstoppers into the mix: tagliatelle al ragù (fresh ribbons of pasta sliding into rich, beefy Bolognese sauce); mortadella (cured pork sausage); and tortellini en brodo (pork-fi lled pasta pockets in chicken broth). For the latter, stop by the gloriously old-school Le Sfogline, where Renata Zappoli and her daughters, Monica and Daniela, use fresh egg pasta to handmake exquisite tortellini — legend has it, the shape is inspired by Venus’s navel. Beyond the table, Bologna is a handsome medieval city, home to the world’s oldest university, the University of Bologna (1088), around 25 miles of covered walkways (porticoes), a pair of jauntily leaning towers (Asinelli and Garisenda) and the resplendent Piazza Magiore, with its clock tower, Neptune fountain and Gothic Basilica di San Petronio. INTO THE APENNINES Bologna whets the appetite for a deeper exploration of the region. Heading south, the Apennines rise rugged, with warmstone villages clinging to the hilltops that Discover Italy’s lesser-known villages with Londonbased ITS ITALY, which aims to simplify the process of buying and managing property abroad. Having signed a partnership with more than 60 municipalities, it off ers opportunities to invest and integrate with local communities. itsfor.it are every bit as enticing (and far less visited) than those in neighbouring Tuscany. Here, life is woven around cafe-rimmed piazzas off ering seasonal dishes. Time your trip wisely to coincide with one of the many food festivals. The soft-hued terracotta-roofed, San Benedetto Val di Sambro, located an hour’s drive south of Bologna, is worth visiting. Life plays out gently here: morning espressos on a cafe terrace, a hike on a cobbled Roman road or around the nearby hill-rimmed lake of Castel dell’Alpi, followed by dinner at an agriturismo playing up regional ingredients, from venison to pasta with truffl es. Everything here is locally sourced, from the fruit and veg, to the meat, wine and olive oil. | PAI D CONTE NT FOR IT S ITALY
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D ID YO U LOVE O NE O F O U R FE ATU RES? D ID AN ARTI C LE IN S PIRE A NE W ADVENTU RE? LE T U S KN OW WHAT YO U THINK O F THE M AGA ZINE AND B E IN WITH THE C HAN C E TO WIN THE G RE AT PRIZE BELOW. A Weekender bag worth £165! STAR LETTER Homecoming Having recently subscribed to National Geographic Traveller (UK), I was fascinated and charmed by the March 2023 issue, particularly by the India cover story. Although I’m of Indian origin, my grandparents migrated to Kenya, which is where my parents and I were born. I’d always longed to go to India, and in 2006, my wife and I spent a few months travelling around the country on trains and local buses to connect with our roots and seek out new adventures. Your article took me back to a beautiful moment in time. It’s one magazine I’ll keep aside and show my kids when they’re old enough to travel. MINESH SHAH This carry-on-sized holdall by Stubble and Co is designed for short breaks. Crafted with water-resistant canvas, it features a 15-inch laptop sleeve, secure inner compartments and an outer pocket for quick access. A leather handle and detachable padded shoulder strap make it comfortable to carry, and it can also be secured to your main suitcase thanks to a handy trolley sleeve. stubbleandco.com Old favourites The rain was lashing the windows and the wind was clattering about when I fi rst read the Greek Islands cover story (April 2023). Needless to say, a trip for the summer has already been booked. I shall return to a couple of favourite spots but add on several new destinations, too. I love tranquil trips that allow you to do, see and learn a great deal, and I’d forgotten how beautiful and interesting this Mediterranean country is. The photos we took there were lovely — they can only be outdone by the real thing. STEVE WALTON Accessible air travel As someone who recently suff ered an ACL injury, I found the article on improving air travel for passengers with disabilities (Hot Topic, May 2023) resonated on a personal level. I realised how challenging it is to locate information about getting help in airports and how inaccessible some aspects of air travel can be for individuals with disabilities. Reading your article was heartwarming, as it shed light on an issue that’s often overlooked. Thank you for your work in bringing attention to this important topic and for pushing for greater accessibility and assistance for passengers with disabilities. JIA NG INBOX [email protected] Get in touch Have a query about subscriptions? WIN Passengers on the Mandovi Express from Mumbai to Madgaon, Goa, India IMAGE: MARC SETHI Get in touch at natgeotraveller@ subscription.co.uk or call 01858 438787 GET IN TOUCH JUL/AUG 2023 185
HOW I GOT THE SHOT LAOS RICHARD JA MES TAYLOR WAITED FOR THAT M AGIC SUN SET MOMENT AND A BIT OF LUCK TO SHOOT THIS IMAGE FOR OUR JUNE 2023 ISSUE View the full shoot and interview online at nationalgeographic.com/travel @richardjamestaylor I SUBMIT YOUR PHOTOGR APHY FOR CONSIDER ATION AT PHOTOGR APHY@NATGEOTR AVELLER .CO.UK Tell us about this image. This image was shot on the Mekong River in southern Laos, close to the border with Cambodia. I was on assignment for a photo story about life along the Mekong when I came across this scene in Si Phan Don — meaning ‘4,000 islands’ — an area known for its traditional, laid-back way of life. How did you achieve the shot? The image was shot on a Canon 5DS with a 70-200mm 2.8 lens at 140mm. I prefer to shoot landscapes with longer focal lengths; I like the way it compresses the scene, pulling the background into the frame, making the hills seem closer and more dramatic. I also used a LEE Filters 0.6 neutral density grad filter to retain detail in the sky and maintain a sense of balance between foreground and background. Shooting into the light adds life and warmth, but the sun must be low in the sky for it to work. What were the challenges at play? Having found the viewpoint a few days earlier, I worked out that the sun would set just to the right of the frame and give the scene a soft backlit feel. On my return, I arrived an hour before sunset, which was still a bit early — in the tropics, it’s only just before the sun actually sets that you get that magical golden light I was after. I also needed some people to bring the scene to life, but the islands tend to be pretty quiet, and I was starting to think it wouldn’t work out. With just minutes to go before the light went completely, this local came into view in a dugout canoe, rewarding my patience. What did you want to convey with this photograph? The Mekong changes character in this part of Laos, becoming not one river but many, with creeks creating a network of small islands. There are no cars on the islands, so boats are the main form of transport. I wanted to capture this bucolic vibe. Combined with the soft backlight from the setting sun, this location was the perfect spot for it. 186 NATIONALGEOGRAPHIC.COM/TRAVEL
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