Unique and familiar flavours move across your palate in a perfectly tuned epicurean dance. The music moving them is orchestrated through your chef’s creativity, the direction of the maître d’, your sommelier’s guidance and the attentiveness of the crew. Experience a symphonic exploration of culinary pleasures alongside the unrivalled space and unmatched, personalised service found only aboard Regent Seven Seas Cruises®. Nothing enhances travel quite like Epicurean Perfection™ Savour more at RSSC.COM FOR MORE INFORMATION, SCAN THE QR CODE, CALL 023 8082 1360 VISIT RSSC.COM/ORDER-BROCHURE OR CONTACT YOUR TRAVEL ADVISOR SAVOUR THE UNRIVALLED™ AD230602_DestinationFocus_NatGeo_FP
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WORDS: ADRIAN PHILLIPS IMAGE: AWL IMAGES Performance is part of the everyday in Florida — and not just in its theme parks and glamorous major cities. The state’s attention-grabbing wildlife, including turtles, dolphins and one of the world’s rarest plants, demand centre stage, too JUL/AUG 2023 103
IMAGES: ROB ONEAL; ALAMY He’s shirtless and lean, and he’s got them hooked. “Remember, I’m 65 years old, but I’m gonna dive through that hoop straight onto the hard concrete!” A lady he’s selected from the crowd stands with the hoop at the end of her outstretched arms. “And guess what you all gonna do?,” the street performer continues with gusto, patrolling like a ringmaster. “You gonna put money in this bucket!” He selects another victim and shakes a red bucket playfully under his nose. “Don’t worry if you ain’t got a 20-buck note, mister. Two tens will do!” There’s performance everywhere in Florida, from street artists ducking and diving as the sun sets over Key West to giant cartoon characters congo-dancing their way around the Disney castle in the Magic Kingdom. Drive south from Miami into the Keys and you enter a hall of mirrors, the world stretched and magnified into something familiar but different. Roll up, roll up and test your stamina at the Home of the Stone Crab Eating Contest! Stop for the Best Roadside BBQ on the Planet, drink the Coldest Beer in the US, watch the Greatest Show on Earth. Head to Mattheessen’s on Duval Street for a cookie that weighs half a pound. Everything is bigger, better, colder, faster. “Don’t worry about calories,” the lady at Mattheessen’s will reassure you as she wraps up your cookie. “We burn them off before we sell ’em.” Immerse yourself, forget yourself, come and jump right in. Out here, the show never stops — that’s why we love it. We love it, too, for the theatres of life away from the boulevards and theme parks: those sucking swathes of Everglades swamp and copper-coloured waterways where manatees loll and fart among the mangroves. Of course, you take your chances in the wild places because there’s no choreography to their drama, no roadside billboards or advertised start times — nature only jumps hoops when it wants to. But some people know where nature’s shows might happen. People like biologist Jaclyn Doody. “There, look!” she says urgently, from behind a pair of binoculars after collecting me from Key West Bight Marina the following morning. “It’s Batman, I’m sure it is! That’s great news — we’ve not seen her for a while.” Batman disappears, but we point our boat, the Squid, in the dolphin’s direction. All is quiet again, six miles out to sea. A ballyhoo fish skips across the glass-flat surface like a world champion’s skimming stone. “It has incredibly fast twitch-fibres in its tail,” explains Jaclyn as I watch. Then, without warning, Batman leaps out of the water a few metres from our boat — a slightly clumsy leap that ends in a messy splash. “Well, well, you’re lucky,” says Jaclyn. “The dolphins don’t jump much round here. It’s not like in Tampa — the Tampa ones are the jumpiest I know.” “ARE YOU RE ADY, PEOPLE? ” THE M AN C RIE S OUT. THE ON LOOKE RS AROU ND HIM IN M ALLORY SQUARE STA MP THE IR FEET AND CLAP THEIR HANDS. Clockwise from top left: The historic Key West Lighthouse; snorkelling in Sombrero Reef in the Florida Keys National Marine Sanctuary; bottlenose dolphins jumping in the water off Gasparilla Island 104 NATIONALGEOGRAPHIC.COM/TRAVEL FLORIDA
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IMAGES: AWL IMAGES; ALAMY; RJ WILEY Out beyond the reef that stretches along the Florida Keys, the seabed plunges into the Gulf of Mexico, but the waters of the Key West National Wildlife Refuge are typically just 10 feet deep and, in places where seagrass grows on the sand bar, the clearance is little more than a foot. “Boats often get stuck and then abandoned,” says our pilot, Katie Walker, pointing to a shiny yacht lying skewwhiff in the distance, its mast jutting at 45 degrees. “What a beauty — if I had the money, I’d love to salvage that.” The shallows are also free of big predators and full of food, which make them perfect nursery grounds for Atlantic bottlenose dolphins like Batman. “We named her that because her dorsal fin looks like the Batman insignia,” explains Jaclyn, who’s studied dolphins all over the world. “That was before we knew she wasn’t a he,” Katie chips in. Dorsal fins get scarred when dolphins fight or play, becoming unique identifiers; Jaclyn has recorded 130 dolphins in the resident population while running trips for Honest Eco tours aboard Key West’s first electric charter boat. “If I stare long enough, I swear I can recognise a dolphin from its face, too,” she says. Right on cue, as if the other half of a double act, a face emerges, with a gentle ‘phush’ from its blowhole. The dolphin hangs in the water, nodding in our direction and clicking like a Star Wars robot. Jaclyn cocks her head before declaring with confidence that it’s Top Hat. “He’s scanning us with his X-ray vision, sending echo waves from that great melon of a forehead. You know, he can actually see your bones and internal organs.” I hug my arms to my chest, feeling strangely exposed. X-ray vision strikes me as quite a show-stopper; if Top Hat had a bucket, I’d throw in a coin. Shell-shocked The next day I’m in an emergency room in Marathon surrounded by X-rays of the more conventional kind. “He’ll pull through,” says Mary Elizabeth Shaffer, nodding towards the patient on the operating table — a grinning cuddly toy used for demos during tours of The Turtle Hospital. Sea turtles seem to run quite the gauntlet; since opening in 1986, the hospital has rehabilitated and released over 3,000 of them. They face the jaws of sharks, aerial assaults from frigate birds, and a pernicious virus called fibropapillomatosis, which causes cauliflower-shaped tumours to sprout on their skin. Then there’s Bubble-Butt Syndrome. “When a turtle is hit by a boat propellor, air bubbles can form under its shell,” explains Mary Elizabeth, who’s worked as an assistant at the hospital for two years. “The bubbles make it tough for the turtle to dive so we attach little weights to the shell. Can you see them on Rebel there?” We’ve moved outside to a tank in which a hefty loggerhead makes lazy circles. Rebel swims over to where I stand, stretching up his bald, grandfatherly head, before — quite deliberately — spanking the surface with a flipper and splashing water in my face. “Yes, watch out, he does that sometimes to say hello,” comes Mary Elizabeth’s belated warning from a few steps back. Another enclosure has tanks of hatchlings and juveniles, and a main pool where 20 adults glide effortlessly across each other like aircraft at a show. There are green turtles and hawksbills, and even a couple of highly endangered Kemp’s Ridleys, known as ghost turtles because of their pale colour. We scatter food pellets and the turtles come gulping to the top — Jessica, Mac ’n’ Cheese, April and the rest. “That’s not very ladylike, Tulip!” says Clockwise from top left: An old boat at the marina, Key West; Key West Historic District; a street musician in Mallory Square; the incredibly rare ghost orchid, Audubon Corkscrew Swamp Sanctuary JUL/AUG 2023 107 FLORIDA
Mary Elizabeth frowning, as a greenish cloud billows behind one of the turtles. Tulip was brought here after being chomped by a shark. “What kind of shark?” asks another visitor. “A nasty one” is the expert reply. Mary Elizabeth is a font of turtle trivia. I learn that a turtle has a brain the size of a pea and a bite that can crush a conch shell, that green turtles are named after their diet of green seagrass, that leatherbacks can weigh 2,000lbs and dive to almost 4,000 feet. I learn that a turtle won’t be doomed to swim in circles if it loses a front flipper. But it’s not until later that I learn the underwater hand signal for a turtle. “Place one hand on top of the other and wiggle your thumbs, like this,” says dive instructor Erica Naugle, as our catamaran thrums northwards from Robbie’s Marina on Islamorada Key towards Cheeca Rock, a small part of the chain of 1,700 tropical islands that make up the Florida Keys. Behind her, crew member Connor Harmon breaks into a high-energy solo on his air guitar as Bruce Springsteen blares from the boat’s stereo. Other passengers whoop their appreciation — an excursion with Sundance Watersports is an upbeat affair. “This is a barracuda,” Erica continues patiently, making a chopping action with her right hand against her left forearm, entirely ignoring Connor as he finishes his performance with an extravagant bow. “And if you spot a shark, put the side of your hand against your forehead, like a fin.” If I spot a shark, I’ll be making some very different movements, but I nod along as Erica wraps a weight belt around my waist, and then talks me through the dos and don’ts of snuba. Snuba is a bridge between snorkelling and scuba diving. There are no oxygen tanks to carry; instead, the diver’s regulator is attached by a long hose to air cylinders in a raft on the surface. Mask and flippers on and regulator in place, I bob alongside the raft above our dive site, an area of coral reef known as The Donut. The first challenge is to get below the surface. Weight belt or not, I’m stubbornly buoyant, like a human victim of Bubble-Butt Syndrome. FLORIDA
IMAGES: JEREMY JANUS; ALAMY But after a minute or two things start to happen. Relax and breathe out, were Erica’s instructions, and as I focus on her words I start to sink through the water, pinching my nose and swallowing every few feet to release the pressure in my ears. And then I’m with Erica, finning up close to things that have felt frustratingly far away when snorkelling: corals like purple brains or frilly fans; dark holes where who-knows-what might hide; a school of blue-striped grunt fish. I’m front row at the show, and there’s a narrator, too. Erica holds up two fingers like antennae as a spiny lobster withdraws into a crevice, and mimes a bugle blow when a trumpet fish swims past. Best of all, she brings out the wiggle-thumb signal, and a green turtle wafts gracefully around us before dropping down to scratch itself on some coral. Back on board, Erica tells me the turtle was a three-year-old called Shelly who was probably feeding on the scores of pink and pulsing moon jellyfish that had drifted in on the current. The little jellyfish have no nutritional value, but their sting gives a mild buzz that the turtles find pleasant — a sort of underwater espresso. I find the nettle-like stings on my neck rather less pleasant. “Yeah, small things can pack a punch!” calls Connor, interrupting his latest dance sequence to hand me a vinegar spray gun. The vinegar usually calms the discomfort — but on this occasion exacerbates it because I get some in my eye. Creatures great & small Connor’s words strike a chord when I join guide Debbie Lotter at Audubon Corkscrew Swamp Sanctuary, 30 minutes from the coastal city of Naples. A two-mile boardwalk snakes into the Everglades wetland of old-growth cypress forest. As we go deeper the swamp seems to inflate and intensify: tree trunks become broader, the foliage thicker, the air somehow denser. Drops of water fall in fat spatters on the boards; a whistling duck breaks cover with a high-pitched cackle; and the grunts of pig frogs wrap tight around us. The swamp is building towards something big. Then a throaty rumble grows in the distance, like the growl of a lion, which is quickly answered by another growl, much louder and closer. We round a bend and there, just below the boardwalk, is a huge alligator. It’s dragged its bulk up against the base of a tree so that it’s propped almost vertical, head tilted back and mouth wide. Clockwise from above: Billie Swamp safari tour at Big Cypress Seminole Indian Reservation; sunrise at Cypress National Preserve JUL/AUG 2023 109
The thrill of discovery is what Polk County is all abouthowever you defi ne “adventure,” you’ll fi nd it here. Culinary tours excite the senses, while roller coasters make the heart race. And outdoor lovers of all kinds can explore the natural beauty of Florida’s Sweetest Spot. Learn more at VisitCentralFlorida.com. DISCOVERY LIVES HERE. WESTGATE RIVER RANCH :: RIVER RANCH, FL A comfy bed that looks pretty good right now. Ready to take a cowboy-sized nap. Not even close to being done exploring.
IMAGE: GETTY “The male alligators are chatty today,” says Debbie breezily, and I realise this menacing monster isn’t the something big the swamp’s been building towards: it’s just part of the supporting chorus, like the duck and the frogs, preparing the way for the entrance of the real A-lister. That star soon appears. “Can you see, up there?” says Debbie excitedly, pointing to a towering cypress tree. Clinging to a branch a hundred feet high is a leafless plant, roots blending so perfectly with the bark that its white flower seems to float in the canopy. It’s a ghost orchid, pollinated by the tongues of just two species of moth, and precariously rare. “There are only 2,000 in the wild,” explains Debbie in strangely hushed tones, as if not to interrupt the performance. “Isn’t it beautiful?” Debbie isn’t the only guide for whom the big thing can be something small. Early the next day, Don McCumber of Everglades Area Tours takes me in his flat-bottomed boat to explore a coastal wilderness of mangrove islets called Ten Thousand Islands. “Although there might be 9,999, I guess,” says Don, drily. “I’ve not counted ’em.” We enter a web of saltwater channels that binds the scattered islets, thwacking over lumpy water beneath an osprey on the hunt for mullet, and passing scores of sharp-beaked egret chicks squawking on their nests in the mangroves. Alongside, watchful adults cool themselves by vibrating their cheeks, which makes a glugging noise, like the last of the water going down a drain. In the early 1900s, it was fashionable for ladies to wear hats made from egret feathers, and many birds were killed here. Many men died, too, during gun battles between poachers and the authorities. Don is most absorbed by tragedies and triumphs played out at a smaller scale. As we walk the water’s edge of a lonely island called Rabbit Key, he stoops over pool after pool, shell after shell. Each step comes with the promise of new plotlines. “A Florida fighting conch,” he says, crouching at a beige-coloured shell that swirls to a pointed tip. “It’s being hunted by that horse conch over there, which is following the slime trail like a map.” The fighting conch has a trick, Don reveals. “If a predator gets too close, the fighting conch can flail its foot from side to side, and flip itself away from the trail.” It lives to fight another day. Among the shellfish and sea snails, Don also finds a weathered shard of pottery, Above: Seven Mile Bridge runs through the Florida Keys JUL/AUG 2023 111 FLORIDA
ATLANTIC OCEAN Key West Key Largo Naples Islamorada Key Marathon Miami AUDUBON CORKSCREW SWAMP SANCTUARY E v e r g l a d e s Ten Thousand Islands National Wildlife Refuge Key West National Wildlife Refuge Big Marco River 20 miles UNITED STATES OF AMERICA FLORIDA Orlando Tallahassee Gulf of Mexico ATLANTIC OCEAN IMAGE: GETTY. ILLUSTRATION: JOHN PLUMER GETTING THERE & AROUND Several carriers operate direct flights from London to Miami, including British Airways, Delta Air Lines and Virgin Atlantic. ba.com delta.com virginatlantic.com Average flight time: 9.5 hrs. Car hire companies including Avis and Hertz have offices at Miami Airport. avis.com hertz.co.uk WHEN TO GO Peak season is January to April, when temperatures are warm but not overbearing. The summer months (especially July and August) can be very hot and humid. Hurricane season is June to November, when you can expect brief, heavy rainfall daily. WHERE TO STAY Lime Tree Bay Resort, Islamorada. Doubles from $300 (£240), B&B. limetreebayresort.com Opal Key Resort & Marina, Key West. Doubles from $280 (£225). opalcollection.com JW Marriott Marco Island Beach Resort. Doubles from $525 (£420). marriott.com LaPlaya Beach & Golf Resort, Naples. Doubles from $400 (£320). laplayaresort.com MORE INFORMATION visitflorida.com fla-keys.co.uk paradisecoast.com HOW TO DO IT America As You Like It offers a 14-night Florida fly-drive from £1,895pp, including Virgin Atlantic flights from Heathrow to Miami, returning from Orlando, car hire, two nights in Key Largo, two nights in Key West, two nights in Marco Island, two nights in Naples, three nights in Fort Myers and three nights in Kissimmee. americaasyoulikeit.com made by the Calusa tribe — the ‘Shell Indians’ — who inhabited these islands for millennia, fashioning tools and weapons from the conch shells. Calusa means ‘fi erce people’, and Spanish explorers were attacked by Calusa tribesmen when they came in the 16th century. “Someone shaped this pot, hardened it in a campfi re, maybe drank from it,” says Don, turning the fragment in his hand. “And I’m the fi rst to touch it in 500 years.” On this beach, we walk a midden of life stories. My own Florida story ends with an encore from the region’s greatest entertainers — its dolphins. Master naturalist Bob McConville and his no-nonsense sidekick Captain Eddie have taken to the Big Marco River twice a day almost every day for the last 16 years to monitor the dolphins who live there. Their research is globally important, funded by visitors like me who join them on their excursions, and they love every moment. “We’re forced to take two weeks off each year,” says Bob ruefully, “so Captain Eddie’s wife don’t divorce him.” “Dolphins at two o’clock!” says Captain Eddie from behind the wheel of the Dolphin Explorer. Bob hurries to the front of the boat and peers towards an olive-coloured patch of water beneath a bridge. “It’s Avery and Snowfl ake,” he calls, with clear aff ection. “Snowfl ake’s only 10 days old — she’s like a little gummy bear.” Snowfl ake is the fi rst of the calves this birthing season. Whoever spots the next will have the privilege of naming it. Another dolphin appears, rising for a quick breath before corkscrewing below. It’s Avery’s teenage son, Lucky Charm, and he’s on the hunt, driving fi sh towards the bridge where he can corner them. “It’s a simple life: eat, sleep, play,” observes Bob. “Kinda like my brother-inlaw’s,” says Captain Eddie. “Dolphins at 11 o’clock!” A pair of large males, Capri and Hatchet, have arrived on the scene. They’re best buddies who’ll stick together for life, Bob tells me, and their interest has been piqued by Zipper, a female who’s approaching maturity but doesn’t yet have a calf. But wait — at 9 o’clock — another two bruisers called Bangle and Finch. The mood’s changed, the atmosphere tense, a new plotline unfolding. “There might be a scrap here,” says Captain Eddie. “These guys like a brawl.” Are you ready, people? This is Florida, and the next show’s about to begin. Left: Southernmost Point Buoy was erected in 1983 in Key West 112 NATIONALGEOGRAPHIC.COM/TRAVEL FLORIDA
The road less travelled isn’t a road. When all is said and done, we all want the same thing: a deeply rewarding life, enriched by the places we go and the experiences we share. Here, in quirky, sun-blessed Key West, extraordinary moments await. With glorious weather, world-class fishing and diving, art, history and culture, unique accommodations and tantalising cuisine, the end of one spectacular day just means another one is on the horizon. fla-keys.com/keywest 0208 686 2600
Herzegovina The region of Herzegovina off ers endless opportunities for adventure, from biking through forests to exploring waterfalls. Words: Sarah Gillespie Jewel of the Balkans | PAID CONTENT FOR ASSOCIATION TOURISM CLUSTER HERZEGOVINE
IMAGES: ALAMY; MARIN MAMUZA S teeped in history and packed with extraordinary landscapes, Herzegovina — the southern half of Bosnia and Herzegovina — is an unsung Mediterranean escape. Strolling through the cobbled streets of its regional capital, Mostar, feels like stepping back in time, with its gushing streams, medieval towers and enchanting stone buildings. Stray beyond this, however, and the region’s bucolic charms unfurl, from fragrant hillside trails just begging to be hiked to seeing wild horses up close in the Dinaric Alps. 1 ZIPLINE OVER THE HISTORICAL CITY OF MOSTAR Located in the heart of Herzegovina, Mostar is the country’s fifth largest city and is home to a unique melting pot of cultures. Most striking of all is the UNESCO-listed Old Bridge (Stari Most), completed in 1566 by Ottoman architect Mimar Hajruddin. With a history as staggering as its engineering, it’s best viewed from the minaret of the Koski Mehmed Pasha Mosque. For a more unique perspective, take an adrenaline fuelled zipline from the top of Fortica Hill, located just outside the city. It glides for 1,000 metres over the beautiful rocky hills and the city itself, before ending at the beach underneath the bridge. What’s more, locals are known to make the death-defying leap from Stari Most into the waters below for sport; there’s even an annual bridgejumping festival in July. 2 GO WILD SWIMMING IN THE KRAVICE FALLS The Kravice Falls, just outside the city of Ljubuški, form a natural amphitheatre of water 30 metres high and 120 metres wide. They’re at their most ferocious — and photogenic — in spring, when they churn up a rolling fog of vapour. They’re calmer in summer; the shallow pool is ideal for swimming in, with cool, blue-green waters and plenty of rocks on which to bask. A series of narrow wooden walkways pass over the basin and there’s ample opportunity to hire kayaks further downstream. Slake your thirst with a beer at one of the poolside bars. 3 CLIMB MEĐUGORJE’S SACRED KRIZEVAC MOUNTAIN According to local legend, in 1981 the Virgin Mary appeared to six children in the town of Međugorje, conveying messages of peace and prayer. Although this supposed miracle was never officially approved by the Catholic Church, word of the apparitions spread and now around one million pilgrims journey to Međugorje every year. Whether you’re a believer or not, the three-to fourhour scramble up rocky Krizevac (aka Cross Mountain) is worth the spectacle. Crowds of pilgrims pray at Stations of the Cross dispersed at intervals and, at the top, there’s a giant cross dating back to 1933 and excellent views over the town and the surrounding Adriatic coast. 4 MOUNTAIN BIKE IN BLIDINJE NATURE PARK Blidinje Nature Park, located just north of Mostar, is a monumental landscape of mountains and endemic Bosnian pine forests, best experienced on a mountain biking tour. Various companies offer a variety of routes suitable for all fitness levels, including plenty of stops for admiring the views. Highlights include the village of Masna Luka, with its geometric church and drinking water springs, before meandering onto Blidinje Lake and the stećci (medieval tombstones carved with figures and symbols) necropolis at Dugo Polje. Together with 27 other similar sites across the Balkans, the Dugo Polje stećci comprise a UNESCO World Heritage Site. 5 TAKE A WILD HORSE SAFARI Seventy years ago, farmers working across the Dinaric Alps of western Bosnia and Herzegovina turned working horses loose as mechanisation took over. They thrived and multiplied, and now these majestic creatures number around 800. Take a wild horse safari at the foot of the Cincar Mountain and you’ll see herds of them thundering by or gathering to drink from the troughs left by abandoned dairy farms. Best of all, they’re generally tame and will often approach tourists. Some tours include a stop at a viewpoint overlooking the Glamocko valley, where the silence is profound. Pair your experience with a picnic and eat lunch with the horses all around you. PLAN YOUR TRIP There are one-stop flights from London to Sarajevo. From there, public transport is the best way to navigate around Herzegovina. Alternatively, fly into Mostar, Dubrovnik and Split. For more information, visit tkh.ba From far left: Stari Most Old Bridge, Mostar; the cross at the top of Mount Krizevac, Međjugorje; wild horses at the foot of the Cincar Mountain in the Dinaric Alps | PAID CONTENT FOR ASSOCIATION TOURISM CLUSTER HERZEGOVINE
W O R D S & P H O T O G R A P H S : F R A N C E S C O L A S T R U C C I The pinnacles and limestone cliffs of Sardinia’s Cala Goloritzé overlook the astonishing turquoise Tyrrhenian Sea. But coastal sights such as these are only part of the story on the eastern side of this Italian island, whose nearimpregnable interior is a place of untouched beauty and resilience 116 NATIONALGEOGRAPHIC.COM/TRAVEL
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The high plateau of the Supramonte is furrowed by a network of paths stretching from the mountains to the sea. Villages, churches and neolithic sites are hidden between canyons, caves and cliffs that stand as a challenge to climbers. Beneath those rocks, fresh water makes its way through an even more intricate karst system, revealing itself at points coming up to the surface, such as the spring of Su Gologone with its crystalclear pools below an old chapel (pictured right), on its meandering route to the sea. Journeys above and below the surface both culminate at the immaculate coves of the Gulf of Orosei. For more than 20 miles south of the beach at Cala Fuili (above), where the road from Cala Gonone town ends, is a steep coast with no settlements along it. The only way to reach those coves from the landward side is to follow the codule (torrents), walking along deep canyons. This is one of the Mediterranean’s wildest and most evocative stretches. 118 NATIONALGEOGRAPHIC.COM/TRAVEL SARDINIA
The SS125 road, which runs inland parallel to the Gulf of Orosei, is the starting point for the area’s most enticing walks. As the paths descend from the plateaus to the canyons, the ancient holm oaks and yew trees give way to gnarled, centuryold junipers and Mediterranean scrub, including vividly coloured oleander. The environment is rich in animal and plant life including several endemic species, skillfully depicted in the murals of artist Bruno Pisu on the walls of the base camp for walks into Gorropu canyon. Here, Luciano Murgia (above) is waiting. Together with his friend Fabrizio Vella, also from the nearby village of Urzulei, he founded Chìntula Gorropu in 2009, a group organising treks, off-road tours and other excursions in and around the Gorropu canyon, which aims to preserve the cultural and environmental heritage of the Supramonte region. JUL/AUG 2023 121 SARDINIA
Following the sinuous line of the coast at a distance, the SS125 is the fastest and oldest road running through eastern Sardinia; its most panoramic leg between the towns of Dorgali and Baunei is not to be missed. Cyclists trace the countless bends it takes across the landscape. Herds of goats clamber on the limestone, shale and granite rocks of the barren mountains, while the journey up to the pass of Ghenna Sìlana at 1,017m passes shepherds carrying fresh ricotta cheese, in Sardinia often served with honey. Here, the Supramonte of Urzulei begins: a wild land that has served as set for several spaghetti western movies, and whose real-life history had drama of its own. The thrill of finding the Pischìna Gurthàddala, a gigantic cave holding a karstic lake in its mouth, perched on a cliff by the southwestern slopes of Gorropu canyon, is worth the adventure. 122 NATIONALGEOGRAPHIC.COM/TRAVEL SARDINIA
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Call 0203 733 9588 | Visit hurtigruten.co.uk Contact your preferred travel agent Terms and conditions: Please see website for full T&Cs. Image: © Chase Dekker/Shutterstock. Book now Alaska Cruises 2024/25 departures Even Ultra HD on a big screen can only get you so far. Seeing brown bears, blue whales or bald eagles in the wild is an experience you simply won’t forget. Scan the QR code to learn more Sail on small ships V7545 A World Away From Ordinary GET CLOSER THAN ANY NATURE PROGRAMME
West and further inland across the Supramonte, Barbagia is a vast region that encompasses the slopes of the Gennargentu, the mountain range at the centre of the island. One of the wildest areas in Europe, its geography helped its few but fierce inhabitants to repel invaders who attempted to rule them through the ages, and to preserve the land’s cultural and natural treasures. The towns here tell the story of a land of shepherds, where it’s still possible to witness primeval chants, dances and ancient rites. Travellers hear tales of the region’s bandits, but these were often seen as romantic heroes with a sense of honour. Murals in Orgosolo and elsewhere in Barbagia delve into this recent past. Though banditry has marked outsiders’ perception of this region, many are now drawn instead by its wine, food and hospitable locals. SARDINIA JUL/AUG 2023 125
The majestic Gorropu canyon separates the Supramonte of Orgosolo from the Supramonte of Urzulei. Its 1,500ft high walls were carved through the millennia by the tireless flow of the Rio Flumineddu. Hikers venture inside the canyon, finding their way between giant, water-sculpted boulders crammed in its tightest passages, where the cliffs may be only 30ft apart. It’s one of the deepest and narrowest in Europe. The slits of intense blue sky reveal glimpses of golden eagles. In a valley just off the SS125, Urzulei still maintains a strong agro-pastoral community. Craftspeople like Luigina Lorrai still practise the ancient technique of skillfully weaving fibres of iscrarìa (asphodel) to adorn baskets with bichromatic patterns. Sardinia is famed for its number of centenarians, and an ongoing art project reproduces photos of historic life on murals around town. 126 NATIONALGEOGRAPHIC.COM/TRAVEL SARDINIA
Austria From its boulder-smashing Alpine rivers to its startlingly blue mountain lakes, Austria is ripe for adventures both on and under the water. Here are fi ve of the best to try this summer. Words: Kerry Walker Dive into summer Kayaking on the River Salaach, Salzburger Salaachtal Right from top: Diving in Lake Achensee, Tyrol; rafting on the Salza River in Palfau | P A I D C O N T E N T F O R A U S T R I A N N AT I O N A L T O U R I S T O F F I C E IMAGES: SALZBURGER SAALACHTAL, MANUEL ARNU;
PLAN YOUR TRIP There are direct flights from several UK cities to Vienna, Salzburg, Innsbruck and Klagenfurt. If you prefer not to fly, take the Eurostar to Brussels to connect with the Nightjet sleeper to Vienna. ÖBB trains are an efficient, easy means of getting around once in the country. austria.info/en SEE MORE ONLINE AT NATIONALGEOGR APHIC.COM/TR AVEL IMAGES: SALZBURGER SAALACHTAL, MANUEL ARNU; ACHENSEE TOURISMUS; DEEP ROOTS ADVENTURES, THEO KUST For a land so far from the sea, Austria has an incredible number of opportunities for aquatic adventure. You can barely pick up a map without dipping your finger into one of the country’s 25,000 bodies of water, which range from tiny Alpine tarns to large, windruffled lakes. You’ll find plenty of classic activities, from kayaking and open-water swimming to windsurfing and sailing. But be prepared for surprises here, too, there’s wreck-diving and standup paddleboard yoga in Vienna’s urban heart. 1 HIT THE RAPIDS Tyrol’s dramatic Zillertal Valley throws you in at the deep end. Here, the Ziller River rages in all its glacier-fed glory, past daggershaped peaks, pine forests and timber chalets clinging to cow-nibbled pastures. The best way to experience its exhilarating twists and turns is by grabbing a helmet, a life jacket and a paddle and going whitewater rafting with the pros. Or, to ramp up the adventure, try power rafting — a pulse-racing encounter with the rapids on an inflatable canoe. Where to do it: In the Tyrolean towns of Zell am Ziller and Mayrhofen you can choose from a number of water-based activities, such as whitewater rafting and kayaking. 2 CATCH THE WIND The largest lake in the Tyrol region, the Achensee is one of Austria’s most popular spots for sailing, windsurfing, stand-up paddleboarding and kitesurfing. It’s known by locals as the ‘Tyrolean sea’, thanks to its thermal mountain winds and crystal clear water quality. There are plenty of places to catch the wind here, but the villages of Maurach and neighbouring Pertisau make the best bases, with surrounding highaltitude hiking trails that provide additional activty options on days when winds are low. Where to do it: In Maurach, you’ll find water sports schools that offer kitesurfing, windsurfing and sailing courses, as well as wingfoil lessons — a blend of the three that uses a hydrofoil board and a handheld wing. 3 DIVE DEEP Scuba diving in Austria? You bet. The Salzkammergut region dazzles with mountain lakes and the Attersee is the largest of the lot. Ringed by peaks, and with water allegedly so pure you can drink it, the Attersee offers ideal conditions for wild swimmers and divers. Drop deep into its crystal-clear waters to explore algae-furred wrecks, from a vintage car to a submarine. Where to do it: The sunny lakeside village of Weyregg am Attersee has two dive centres and seven diving entry points. 4FIND YOUR BALANCE Take your downward-facing dog and yogic sun salutations to a whole new level by balancing on a standup paddleboard on the River Danube in Vienna’s heart. It’s a great way to get out on the water and tune into nature’s gentle rhythms, with unique (at times upside-down) angles of the Austrian capital. Once you’ve got into the flow of it, you’ll quickly appreciate how the motion of the water increases the intensity of the asanas (poses). Where to do it: You’ll find SUP Yoga classes for various ability levels at a number of spots in the city’s northeast, such as the Vienna City Beach Club or the Alte Donau lake. 5 ENJOY THE OPEN WATER Reaching down towards the Slovenian border, Wörthersee in Carinthia is Austria with a Mediterranean feel. Here pine trees meet palms, summers are long, light and warm, and the glassy azure lake waters can be as warm as the Med, reaching up to 28C. The lake is ringed with popular bathing beaches and is famed for its open-water swimming offerings. Visit at the start of September, when the city of Klagenfurt, on the lake’s eastern shore, plays host to one of Europe’s largest open-water swimming competitions — Wörthersee Swim Austria Where to do it: Take on the two-day summer swim camp at the Klagenfurt lido between June and August before testing your newfound skills in the open water. | P A I D C O N T E N T F O R A U S T R I A N N AT I O N A L T O U R I S T O F F I C E
IMAGE: AWL IMAGES To begin at the end: the remains of the apostle Saint James (or Sant Iago, in Spanish) are believed to repose in an urn, in a tomb, in a crypt, in the looming medieval cathedral of the city named after him. Santiago de Compostela was built around the saint’s burial site, as revealed to a shepherd by a guiding star almost a millennium after the body was carried here by stone boat from Jerusalem, with angels guiding the way. Or so the story goes. It has since led more than 1,000 years’ worth of pilgrims to this convergence point of myth and history, via the network of cross-country trails known as the Camino de Santiago. In 2022, a record 438,000 people completed one of those routes, some of them covering only the final 62 miles (or 124 miles for cyclists) required to qualify for the official pilgrim certificate, the Compostela. It’s a measure of how popular the pilgrimage has become, drawing not just the Catholic faithful but recreational trekkers, mountain bikers, group tours and solo travellers, coming to work off their worries — or a few extra pounds — in the wilds of the Iberian peninsula. There are seven main caminos (ways) and while they all end in Santiago de Compostela, they’re not all confined to Spain. The French Way, from the foothills of the Pyrenees, has some of the best infrastructure and is by far the busiest. Lesser-travelled alternatives, meanwhile, trace the Portuguese coast, the Cantabrian Mountains and the inland plains of Castile and León. Each route offers its own distinct pleasures in terms of climate, landscape, physical challenges and regional cultures. But there are recurring features, with all paths marked by holy ruins, shrines, monasteries and albergues (simple hostels that have served the routes since the Middle Ages). There’s always camaraderie among the wayfarers. A bottle of water or wine shared with strangers in the ruins of a hilltop hospital built for early pilgrims might be the defining moment of your trip. There’s also solitude, if that’s what you want, and the profound satisfaction of moving through all this natural beauty under your own steam. If you don’t find God, or even yourself, on the way, there is at least the promise of deep peace and quiet. Camino de Santiago PILGRIMS HAVE BEEN TR ACING TR AIL S TO THE SPANISH CIT Y OF SANTIAGO DE COMPOSTEL A FOR CENTURIES. MODERN TR AVELLERS CAN FOLLOW THE TR ADITION IN SE ARCH OF THEIR OWN PERSONAL FULFIL MENT. WORDS: STEPHEN PHELAN The Big Trip Right: A pilgrim in Castile and León, en route to Santiago de Compostela CAMINO DE SANTIAGO 130 NATIONALGEOGRAPHIC.COM/TRAVEL
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ITINERARY ONE 1. Porto 2. Marinhas 3. Mougás 4. Pontevedra 5. Santiago de Compostelo ITINERARY TWO 1. Oviedo 2. Tineo 3. Grandas de Salime 4. Lugo 5. Santiago de Compostelo ITINERARY THREE 1. Granja de la Moreruela 2. Mombuey 3. Laza 4. Cea 5. Santiago de Compostelo
IMAGE: GETTY. ILLUSTRATION: TANYA COOPER The classic Portuguese Way from Porto is a largely inland option, but there’s also a 170-mile coastal alternative that skirts the Atlantic coastline through northern Portugal and Galicia — the edge of the known world in Roman times. DAYS 1 - 3 With its Romanesque facade and ethereal blue azulejo tiling, Porto Cathedral makes for an eye-catching starting point. Divert to Matosinhos and follow the ocean along wooden walkways through landscapes of dunes, flowers and market gardens. Browse for lace in the old naval town of Vila do Conde, sample cod in 18th-century fishing port Póvoa de Varzim and watch kitesurfers off the protected shores of Esposende, en route towards Marinhas in far northern Portugal. DAYS 4 -7 This stretch turns from the sea to follow the Neiva River inland on a long, stone pathway. A magnificent iron bridge by Gustav Eiffel takes travellers over the Lima River into Viana do Castelo, where a funicular ascends to the Templo do Sagrado Coração de Jesus (‘Temple of the Sacred Heart of Jesus’), reminiscent of Paris’s Sacré Coeur. The path winds upward into eucalyptus forest, then back down to the ocean, passing coastal bastions and windmills to reach yet another river, the Minho, where a ferry crosses into Spain. On the far bank is A Guarda, famous for its lobster and for its ruins of an ancient Celtic shrine. Finish on the coast in Mougás. DAYS 8 -1 1 Further up the coast is the Royal Monastery of Santa María de Oia, once defended from attacking Turkish ships by Cistercian monks handy with cannons. The route here is nicknamed the Monastic Way in their honour. It weaves across to Baiona, the port that received first word of the New World from the returning ship La Pinta in 1493. Soak up the sea views, across floating mussel farms and the misty Cíes Islands in the Vigo estuary, before turning inland to join the classic Portuguese Way. Stop for oysters in the village of Arcade, then cross Ponte Sampaio bridge to the former Roman road that leads to Pontevedra. DAYS 1 2 -1 4 Pontevedra’s historic centre is worth exploring before the last push. Wander the gothic basilica of Santa María la Mayor and the Santo Domingo convent ruins before crossing bucolic Galician farmlands toward Caldas. Soak tired bones in thermal springs and refuel with a lamprey-filled empanada, then carry on to Padrón, the river port where the disciples are said to have first brought the body of Saint James. The end of this route follows the footsteps of Bishop Teodomiro, who found those remains some 900 years later and brought them to the resting place now known as Santiago de Compostela. ITINERARY ONE THE COASTAL PORTUGUESE WAY Galicia in northern Spain has over 1,000 miles of coastline Sister Paula Téllez manages the hostelry for pilgrims at the Monastery of Santa María in Armenteira, on the Spanish section of the Portuguese Way. The monastery belongs to the Cistercian order and was founded by knight Ero de Armenteira in 1168. I S H O S T I N G P I LG R I M S A SACRED DUTY? Our order lives according to the Rule of Saint Benedict, and hospitality is part of the charism. The arrival of pilgrims to the monastery is a great joy. They come from all over: New Zealand, Malaysia, Brazil or Armenia. The world comes here to get some peace, and they take that peace back to their countries. I S I T N E C E S S A RY TO B E A B E L I E V E R TO S TAY T H E R E ? We admit any pilgrim, even if they’re not a believer. Most guests attend the prayer and blessing of the pilgrim at 7pm, as well as mass. D O YO U T H I N K FA I T H C A N G I V E S O M E P I LG R I M S MORE STAMINA? Yes, especially when they encounter difficulties along the way. Some people seem too old for it, but they walk on that faith. Many Christians make the pilgrimage to thank God for healing an illness, for example. H AV E YO U WA L K E D T H E CAMINO YOURSELF? Only the six miles that lead to the monastery (the climb up Mount Castrove — it was quite hard), plus another six miles onward along the Ruta de Pedra E Da Agua (‘Road of Stone and Water’). The monastic experience is like a pilgrimage you make in your heart: to forego comfort, leave everything behind and follow Christ. Q&A Sacred duty CAMINO DE SANTIAGO JUL/AUG 2023 133
IMAGE: GETTY It’s a couple of miles north of Padrón when I realise what an odd sight we make. Traffic on the arterial N550 speeds through the suburbs, past car showrooms and builders’ merchants, past mechanics and cash-and-carry supermarkets. Yet here we are, too, we pilgrims — travellers from an older, slower time, inching towards journey’s end on the final leg into Santiago de Compostela. What explains the continued fascination of a Camino de Santiago pilgrimage? Why, each year, do hundreds of thousands of people choose the footpaths of medieval penitents over trails elsewhere? I ponder this over five days along the Portuguese Way from Tui. Lacking the time for the full route from Porto, I was walking the trail’s final 64 miles, just within the 62 miles required to qualify for a Compostela completion certificate. There is the timeless scenery, of course: the Galician villages gathered around a granite crucifix; the glossy cockerels strutting in farmyards; the tang of eucalyptus hanging in the woods. There are also the other pilgrims: people like Zara, from Hamburg, walking the Portuguese Way simply because the weather on the French Way looked sketchy, or Sarah, from California, completing a trek she’d had to abandon in March 2020. Conversation comes easily. Pilgrims have the camaraderie of a shared endeavour. Or they do until the Variante Espiritual. This three-day diversion splits west from the direct route to track the Galician coast. After days with other walkers, I find myself largely alone, breathing lungfuls of salt air, dawdling along beaches. The penultimate day is better still. I walk through a wooded valley of lime-green ferns and burbling streams, passing hamlets where farmers paused to grunt a ‘hello’. The distance to Santiago de Compostela reduces with each steady tick of my walking stick. The sun shines. Lovely, but I have a deadline to meet. At 3pm, a boat takes me upriver from Vilanova de Arousa towards Padrón. You might call that cheating on a pilgrimage walk; I’d call it travelling in the wake of Saint James. They say disciples transported the apostle’s body by boat towards the city that now bears his name (Sant Iago). Either way, the boat is sanctioned by the church — so if skipping the 16-mile coast path is cheating, it is doing so with the approval of the Vatican. Travelling at speeds that feel insane after days of walking, the boat guns up the Ría de Arousa estuary to enter a reed-choked channel. I disembark to the type of day walkers love, an onrush of empty scenery to elevate the soul. All of which makes Padrón, where the Variante Espiritual rejoins the main route, something of a surprise. Pilgrims gather in its squares, probably much as they had for centuries, on the final stop before Santiago de Compostela. I can’t believe the conversation has changed much. Over a plate of boiled octopus, we crack nervous jokes about the day ahead: 18 miles, largely uphill. Still, no one said salvation came easy. And so the last push to Santiago de Compostela begins, we pilgrims plodding past those car showrooms until the path cuts away into low hills. For the first time, there are walkers at regular intervals along the path ahead. A couple saunter hand-in-hand. A group of lads bowls merrily along, cracking jokes. When I overtake a group of pensioners, the chirrups of “Buen camino!” are like birdsong. It sounds ridiculous, but we feel like a community. The last miles are ones of images: an elderly woman with a wheelbarrow of kindling who raises a staff in salute as I pass; a shrine to Saint James beside a field; a house tiled entirely in scallop shells, the symbol of the saint. ‘Keep going, pilgrim’, the trail seems to say. A steep hill into O Milladoiro town, a corner and, suddenly, there it is below: Santiago de Compostela, the spires of its cathedral jutting between apartment blocks even from this distance. To be honest, it feels a huge pity. It’s an oft-overlooked fact that the aim of a medieval pilgrimage was to refocus minds as much as revere relics. It was a journey to remember what matters. Back then, it was religion. Now, perhaps, it’s a reminder to pause our hyperstimulated lives and reconnect with ourselves and others. Maybe that explains the appeal of these trails. Where most walks are about scenery, a camino is also about us. I bump into Sarah again in front of the cathedral on Praza do Obradoiro. She is ecstatic. Around us, pilgrims hug and take selfies and whoop as old friends from along the trail reappear. Others lie in the sunshine, their boots and rucksacks off at last. The atmosphere is euphoric, like the moments after a cup final match. We head out later to sink beers with the abandon of champions. Yet as I amble back to my hotel to pack for the next day’s flight, 64 miles walked, pilgrimage completed, I find myself doom-scrolling through headlines for the first time in a week. There’s a lesson in there somewhere. HOW TO DO IT Inntravel has 10-night tours along this route from £1,320 per person, based on two sharing, including accommodation, meals and luggage transfer, excluding flights. inntravel.co.uk EYEWITNESS INTO SANTIAGO DE COMPOSTELA There’s more to a 21st-century pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela than ticking off the miles. Modern salvation is found in the small moments of joy and shared companionship along the way. Words: James Stewart Left: Santiago de Compostela Cathedral, the completion point of the Camino de Santiago pilgrimage route JUL/AUG 2023 135 CAMINO DE SANTIAGO
IMAGES: ALAMY; GETTY This 200-mile trail is said to be the oldest of the Camino de Santiago routes, the first pilgrimage having been taken by Asturian King Alfonso II around 820 CE. It’s also the toughest way to go, but pilgrims are rewarded with glorious mountain views and hearty food. DAYS 1 - 3 King Alfonso II commissioned Oviedo’s basilica, on the site of which now stands the Cathedral of San Salvador, marking the start of this route. From there, it’s into the hills, fortifying yourself with regional stews. Look across the valleys from the Nuestra Señora del Fresno (‘Our Lady of Fresno’) Sanctuary and rest beneath the fortified walls of Salas, the riverside ‘gateway to the west’ of Asturias. The path proceeds to Tineo through chestnut forest, passing vintage hórreos (stilted grain stores) and the ruins of a pilgrim hospital. DAYS 4 -7 Continue via Pola de Allande, where locals still speak Eonaviego (old Galician-Asturian). Stop to behold the 14th-century hilltop Palace of Cienfuegos de Peñalba, and try local Oscos cheese in Puerto del Palo. Then it’s down again to the Salime Reservoir and across to Grandas de Salime, the last stop in Asturias. DAYS 8 -1 1 Head onwards across Galicia on paths that are often monkishly hushed. A quiet trail through ancient oak groves leads to Castroverde’s 14th-century, 65ft-tall tower. Then Lugo rises like a vision, the evening sun glowing on Roman walls that encircle a town known for its good food and wine. DAYS 1 2 -1 4 Dirt roads flanked by chestnut trees pass by late-Roman ruins, including those of the temple of Santa Eulalia de Bóveda. Galician seafood is reliably terrific even this far inland, with octopus grilled to perfection in villages like Melide. Pilgrims connecting from the Northern and French Ways make the last stretch much busier, and groups pause, wonderstruck, at the oak-fringed hermitage of San Pedro and the monument atop Monte do Gozo. From there, you’ll see the spires of your final destination at Santiago de Compostela Cathedral — a sight that moves some to tears of religious humility or sheer, exhausted relief. ITINERARY TWO THE ORIGINAL WAY Clockwise from top left: A pilgrim crossing a bridge in Villatuerta, Spain; a waymarker painted with a scallop shell, a symbol of the Camino de Santiago; a biker in Extremadura, Spain, following the Via de la Plata route Scallops are an abiding symbol of the Camino de Santiago and are often eaten on completion of the pilgrimage. Look out, too, for tarta de Santiago — almond cake topped with icing sugar, decorated with a silhouette of the Cross of St James 136 NATIONALGEOGRAPHIC.COM/TRAVEL
JUL/AUG 2023 137 While the Vía de la Plata is the best-known Camino de Santiago route from Andalucia (transposed over historic trails for traders and herders), the 220-mile Sanabres Way makes an appealing alternative. It’s quieter, a bit flatter and easier to do by bike, forming a chain of enigmatic monasteries through plains and forests and over high, remote passes. DAY 1-3 The Cistercian order built its first Iberian abbey just outside Granja de Moreruela in the 12th century. Today, the monastery’s ruins set the tone for this initial stretch of dirt roads and river crossings. You’ll find wineries dug out of clay amid the chestnut groves around Tábara, and of the two possible routes from Bercianos de Valverde towards Mombuey, the thyme-scented way through Villanueva de las Peras is more pleasant. Cyclists should also take the service road via the reservoir of Our Lady of Agavanzal, instead of the rougher trail, to the shrine of the same name, where a Napoleonic-era musket bullet was recently found embedded in an altarpiece. ITINERARY THREE THE SANABRES WAY DAY 4 -7 From Mombuey, another long phase alternates between deep woodlands, isolated meadows and busy national roads. Stop by the Iglesia de la Asuncion (‘Church of the Assumption’), with its looming belltower built by the Knights Templar in the 13th century, and rest in the shade of ancient oak and yew trees outside Requejo before climbing up and over the A Canda mountain pass, leaving Castile and León in the process. After a first taste of Galician-style grilled meat and seafood across the regional border in A Gudiña, cyclists usually proceed via Verín while hikers tend to take the shorter trail through remote mountain villages, descending steadily toward Laza. DAY 8 -11 The path through unpopulated countryside leads you upward again, over the mountains of Requeixada and Talariño (the latter topped with a wooden cross). Then it’s slowly back down on dirt and asphalt surfaces to recuperate in the medicinal hot springs of Ourense, a storybook-pretty Roman town with a landmark bridge over the Miño River. Another hard climb out of this valley is made easier by the promise of an overnight in Cea, a village famed for its signature bread baked in special woodburning granite ovens. DAY 12-14 Food again becomes the motivator on the journey through the pastoral idyll of the Deza valley, with the promise of cocido (chickpea stew with pork shoulder and chorizo) awaiting you in the town of Lalín. Fuel up before tackling the long, onwards section through pines and eucalyptus. It links to an ancient Roman road that makes the most beatific of all final approaches to the tomb of Saint James. Expend the last of your energy on climbing the peculiar pyramidal mountain Pico Sacro. It was here, legend has it, the disciples Atanasio and Teodoro defeated a dragon with a simple sign of the cross before continuing on to bury the body of the apostle. CAMINO DE SANTIAGO
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IN SIDER’S TR AVEL operates a fully escorted autumn tour on the Portuguese Way that takes in guided visits to historic highlights, including the Pilgrim’s Mass at the Santiago de Compostela Cathedral; diversions to vineyards for wine tastings; stays at paradors (historic inns) and other upscale hotels; and hosted meals, including at Ultramar in Pontevedra. The €4,855 (£4,225) per person price tag excludes flights. insiderstravel.io ORBI S WAYS offers low-cost selfguided packages, including 14 days on the Portuguese coastal route. Its trips remove albergue anxiety and other accommodation worries by providing private rooms in small hotels and country cottages, plus luggage transfers between them. Also included are 24-hour support, detailed route dossiers and travel insurance. From £1,081 per person, excluding flights. orbisways.com THE ADVENTURE PEOPLE caters to those short on time, with small-group seven-day tours that cover those crucial final 62 miles between Sarria and Santiago de Compostela (the last section of multiple routes, including the Original Way). A local guide provides colour and context on Galician culture, and bags are transferred between characterful, pre-booked hotels. From £1,050, excluding flights. theadventurepeople.com SKEDADDLE offers an eightday guided mountain biking tour on the Original Way. It’s a technical route, graded 4/5 for difficulty, with steep climbs and switchback descents over ancient pilgrim paths and drovers’ trails tracing lush peaks and valleys. Cosy accommodations and bag transfers are included. From £1,995 per person, excluding flights. skedaddle.com TRIPS & TOURS Who can help? IMAGE: SUPERSTOCK SIGNS & SYMBOLS From medieval motifs on maps to tales of ancient miracles told along the way, here’s a brief guide to Camino de Santiago-related mythology and symbology. Scallop shells Painted yellow on the blue background of every waymarker, the scallop shell has been the defining icon of the Camino de Santiago for so long that nobody quite remembers why. Some say it’s because early pilgrims used the shells to scoop water from streams, although legend also tells of scallops saving a local groom from drowning on his wedding day, mere days before the body of Saint James arrived in Galicia. Many signposts also bear the apostle’s red-onwhite cross, or images of Jesus and Mary. Yellow arrows In the 1980s, parish priest Elías Valiña, of tiny Galician hamlet O Cebreiro, helped revive dormant routes for modern pilgrims. Having dug deep into medieval maps and codices, he painted the traditional paths with the yellow arrows that are now standard. Staffs Rural Iberia was a dangerous place in the Middle Ages, and hardwood chestnut or hazel walking sticks also served as defensive weapons. Some pilgrims still prefer these to modern trekking poles, and the classic staff remains both pragmatic and emblematic. Pumpkins Pilgrims once transported their water in hollow pumpkins — and while some purists still carry them for that purpose, these days they’re more of a totem, sold as souvenirs along the way. Queen Lupa Early Christian history is spliced into CelticGalician folklore all along the Camino de Santiago. Many stories recount the tricks of the legendary Queen Lupa, a pagan monarch who, so the story goes, obstructed the burial of Saint James on her land. The shadow pilgrim The prevailing ghost story of the Camino de Santiago stems from an illusion created by a lightning rod and a support column on the wall of Santiago de Compostela Cathedral. The resulting shadow is said to belong to a French murderer who was sentenced to walk the route as penance for his sins, waiting forever for the mercy of his victims here at the end of the line. Scallop shells and walking sticks, Galicia CAMINO DE SANTIAGO JUL/AUG 2023 139
IMAGE: ALAMY GETTING THERE & AROUND Portuguese Way: Iberia, Tap Air Portugal, Ryanair and British Airways fly daily to Porto from Heathrow, Stansted and Gatwick, with less regular direct flights from Manchester, Bristol and Edinburgh. Average flight time: 3h. iberia.com flytap.com ryanair.com ba.com Original Way: Ryanair, Wizz Air and Vueling operate direct flights to the start point in Oviedo from Stansted and Gatwick. Average flight time: 2h. ryanair.com wizzair.com vueling.com Sanabres Way: Madrid Barajas Airport tends to be the best option for starting this route. Fly from Heathrow, Manchester or Edinburgh with British Airways, Iberia or EasyJet. Average flight time: 3h. Transfer to Zamora via Renfe trains (3h), and on to Granja de Moreruela via Alsa buses (1h). Many pilgrims prefer to sort a shared ride from Madrid using BlaBlaCar. ba.com iberia.com easyjet.com renfe.com alsa.com blablacar.es Porto and Oviedo are small cities with very walkable old centres, while Granja de Moreruela is a comparatively tiny provincial town only served by a couple of local bus lines. WHEN TO GO Portuguese Way: Spring is nice and quiet, but it can be wet and chilly in northern Portugal and Galicia. July and August (23C) tend to be drier but busier, especially on the final approach to Santiago de Compostela. Original Way: Heavy rain can muddy the upper slopes of Asturias at any time of year, but you’ve got a much better chance of a drier, easier hike in the peak summer months (25C in August). Even then, the paths only tend to get busy toward the end of this route, after Melide. Sanabres Way: The early stages of this route cross relatively open plains, which can get viciously hot (over 40C) in summer. Travelling in the months of April or October makes for much more comfortable walking, and the forests of the later stages look their best in autumn. MORE INFO The Northern Caminos, by Dave Whitson and Laura Perazzoli. £7.99. The Pilgrimage, by Paolo Coelho. £9.99 The Confraternity of Saint James (UK) csj.org.uk El Camino People website and podcast elcaminopeople.com How to travel: a practical guide How fit do I need to be? Some routes are harder than others, but a 14- day pilgrimage requires some conditioning. A few months before setting off , start taking incrementally longer walks (up to 15 miles per day), ideally with an ever-heavier backpack if you plan to carry your own bags. Do I have to carry my own luggage? Only if you want to. There’s no shame in booking luggage transfers via Spain’s stateowned postal service, Correos, or private providers like Pilbeo, which pick up and drop off bags for around €5-10 (£4-8) per stage of the route, leaving you to carry only a day pack. The fi rst pilgrim, King Alfonso II, probably didn’t haul his own gear around either. elcaminoconcorreos-com pilbeo.com What essentials should I pack? Waterproofs, sunscreen, a sun hat, a water bottle, a fi rst-aid kit and comfy footwear are essential. For albergues (simple Camino hostels), pack a sleeping bag, a headlamp, earplugs, an eye mask and bed bug spray. Also bring plasters and merino wool socks. Where will I sleep? Most public albergues are run by the local municipality and charge less than €10 (£8) a night for a dorm bed, but they don’t take reservations. In busy season, consider booking into private albergues or guesthouses along the way. alberguescaminosantiago.com Is walking the only way? No. Cycling is a popular option, but only serious mountain bikers should try the Original Way. Horse-riding is doable, and fi ttingly old-fashioned, but takes experience and planning, so an organised tour is easiest. The Sail The Way initiative has also opened up the possibility of travelling between stages by yacht along the coast. cyclingthecamino.com caminosantiagoacaballo.com elcaminoavela.com/en How does the accreditation system work? The Credencial (pilgrim passport) is a document that confi rms your pilgrimage. Order one from the UK’s Confraternity of St James, or download the app version, then collect physical or virtual stamps at albergues and other marked locations along the way. Present on arrival at Santiago de Compostela Cathedral to collect your Compostela. To qualify, you need only show you walked the fi nal 62 miles (or cycled the fi nal 124 miles) of any of the Camino routes. csj.org.uk ofi cinadelperegrino.com/en Pilgrims walking from Cirauqui Navarre, Spain CAMINO DE SANTIAGO 140 NATIONALGEOGRAPHIC.COM/TRAVEL
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Step out onto the streets of Jaipur and art is all around you. From block printing to to marble carving, for a real taste of the city’s spirit, there’s no better introduction than its craft scene W O R D S : C H A R L O T T E W I G R A M - E V A N S PHOTOGR APHS: TRISTAN BEJAWN JAIPUR CITY LIFE The master weaver stands up and starts to sing. His voice echoes around the carpet warehouse, a high warble pure and true, making the hairs on the back of my neck stand up and goosebumps ripple along my arms. Below him, cross-legged on the floor, three members of his family work as one, their fingers knotting hundreds of threads in a hypnotic dance of hands. A carpet of incredible intricacy stretches away from the little group, oranges mingling with reds and ochres, set within a border of midnight blue and tassels the colour of tea. “He’s singing the knots,” says Abhay Sabir — owner of Rangrez Creation, an artisan carpet maker in the west of Jaipur — as he shows me round. Seeing my look of confusion, he continues: “Every family of carpet makers will have a master weaver, just like all have their own melodies. This carpet will be made up of more than one million knots, all done by hand, and all guided by his song.” It’s a beautiful scene, and one that sums up the city. Five hours southwest of Delhi and marking the start of the desertlike state of Rajasthan, Jaipur is a place that breeds creativity, where craft has a magical quality and work is still largely done by hand. The area has long captured artistic imaginations, first encouraged by Maharaja Sawai Jai Singh II, who made it a tax haven for artisans in 1734, drawing the most talented craftspeople from across the country. I leave Abhay, and clamber back into my auto rickshaw. In keeping with the maharaja’s vision, different streets are still dedicated to different crafts, and in Chokdi Gangapol, it’s all about carpets. We trundle off, a welcome breeze cutting through the thick midday heat and bringing an intoxicating waft of spices from food sellers lining the narrow street. I’ve joined an art-focused tour with the Pink City Rickshaw Company, an inspiring enterprise training vulnerable women JUL/AUG 2023 143
in guiding, and our escort for the day, Bhagya Singh, is a smiling bundle of joy. She points out metalsmiths hammering silver into paper-thin sheets in Subhash Chowk, before we arrive at Mishra Marble Creation and I’m suddenly surrounded by Hindu deities, snow-white elephants and huge tigers so lifelike they seem ready to spring. “These statues are commissioned for temples all across the country,” Bhagya tells me. “There’s a deep love for tradition here — and for art. It’s why machines haven’t replaced the old ways.” Dust fills the air and we watch an elderly artisan in a scarlet turban chisel away at a lump of marble, transforming rock into art. Indeed the city’s architecture is so stunning it’s a work of art in itself, I think, as we pass beneath Chandpole Gate and enter the Old City. This walled area is over 300 years old, and the historical heart of Jaipur. A rabbit warren of tiny alleyways, bazaars and temples, much of it’s painted in a soft terracotta — the reason Jaipur is known as the Pink City. Diwali is round the corner and the streets are heaving. Jaipur’s four million residents seem to be out in force, and stalls selling everything from saris to spices sit so close together it’s hard to tell where one ends and the next begins. To our left, the City Palace — a masterpiece of Mughal design, dating back to 1727 — rises from behind blush-coloured walls, and we wobble over potholes before Bhagya and I part ways in Johari Bazaar. I’m immediately surrounded by gem sellers plying “India’s finest emeralds and diamonds clear as glass”. It’s heady, overwhelming and deafeningly loud, and I find myself being pulled from shop to shop, while hawkers produce fistfuls of possibly precious stones from their pockets like pick ‘n’ mix. This market is renowned for handmade jewellery, another of Jaipur’s famed crafts, although quality and price vary wildly so savvy shopping is the order of the day. I pause to buy a lassi in a traditional clay cup, before turning down a side street in search of the faded frescoes Bhagya had told me to look out for. In the 1700s, these paintings denoted the professions of the families living within the buildings they adorned, and while only a few dozen remain, trades are still passed down through generations here, so when I spot a peeling potter’s wheel just visible on a pink wall, I peer hopefully around for a craftsman at his wheel. No such luck, but distraction comes in the form of sunset, staining the sky the same shade as the city and plunging Jaipur into a blushing, rose-hued world: the Pink City at its most mesmerising. A ROSY FUTURE By the time I arrive at The Johri in the Old City, sweating from a morning stroll, Florence Evans has already ordered us lunch. My tour with her boutique travel company, India by Florence, will take a deep dive into Jaipur’s textile industry — perhaps its most famous craft — but Florence is also here to show me how tradition and modernity gel in Jaipur. Situated in a restored haveli (mansion), the atmospheric hotel is a good starting point. “From the menu to the murals, traditional techniques have been used in modern ways,” she explains, gesturing to walls decorated with hand-painted palm trees and the striped, lemon-yellow sofas we’re currently sitting on. “This fabric has been block printed, but the design wouldn’t look out of place in a London townhouse — that’s something you see more and more in Jaipur these days.” We make quick work of creamy paneer and a huge, fluffy kulcha (leavened flatbread), truffle oil cutting through the coriander it’s classically seasoned with, and wash it down with a vesper martini that goes straight to my head, before setting off for Sanganer, a 30-minute drive south. Once a town in its own right, as Jaipur has expanded south, Sanganer INSIDER TIPS Patterns of India: A Journey Through Colours, Textiles, and the Vibrancy of Rajasthan, by Christine Chittnis, features stunning photographs that provide a textile-based visual tour of this vibrant part of India. Keep an eye out for street-side games of chaupad. This ancient dice game, a precursor to Ludo, is often played on a block-printed square of cloth. While it’s less popular than it used to be, raucous groups of elderly men can still be spotted chasing pawns around the board. For the perfect photograph of the Hawa Mahal (Palace of Winds), walk across the road and climb the rickety metal staircase up to Wind View Cafe, which sits directly opposite. Afterwards, order a vegetable thali; the black lentil dhal is excellent. Take a wander around the Old City at dawn. Streets are empty save for women making roti and cows seeking out scraps, so it’s a perfect time to search for frescoes of former occupations on the sides of buildings. Clockwise from top left: Pedestrians pass through a gate from the City Palace onto Hawa Mahal Road; a carpet weaver at work; more weaving in action Previous pages: Wall fortifications near Jaipur’s Amber Fort JAIPUR 144 NATIONALGEOGRAPHIC.COM/TRAVEL
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Samosas cooked fresh near the City Palace Clockwise from top: The palace’s Nakkar Khana entrance gate; one of Jaipur’s many carpet weavers 146 NATIONALGEOGRAPHIC.COM/TRAVEL
IMAGE: ALAMY has been brought into the folds of the city, but block printing remains at the beating heart of the area, just as it has done for centuries. “Listen,” Florence says, as we get out of the car beside Sanghi Ji Temple, which is dedicated to Jainism, a religion with over 70,000 devotees in Jaipur. A deep, rhythmic thudding fi lls the air, emanating, it seems, from every building lining the lane. We enter a tumbledown warehouse and it’s a wondrous sight: wooden tables, 160 feet long, draped in fabric and lined with artisans. “The cogs of this community are still the rangrez (dyers), chhipas (printers), and dhobi (washers),” she continues. “These are the dyers, and Ishteqhar Sutar here is working on one of my designs.” The artisan is busy printing plump pomegranates onto a length of material, placing a brick-sized wooden block with expert precision and giving it a serious thump before inching forwards to continue the design. He’s tailed by his two teenage sons, skinny and shy, who give us an awkward smile before trotting after their father. “Teaching, teaching,” Ishteqhar gestures. “First, they must learn how to hold the block, then how to lay it. I won’t trust them with colours until their hands are perfectly steady.” In a shadowy corner, a small group is busy mixing the dyes: yellows created with turmeric, reds from sugar cane and deep blue from the indigo fl ower that grows in abundance across the state. Every element of this process is done by hand, from carving the wood and printing the pattern to washing the fabric and hanging it out to dry. It’s a long process, labour intensive and slow, but the results are exquisite and every piece is unique. “With the world’s growing interest in slow, sustainable fashion, block printing has really seized people’s imaginations,” says Florence. On the adjacent street, we stop to have a quick chai with some chhipas. They’re a cheery, laddish bunch, with wood chippings in their hair and dust in their eyebrows, but the patterns they’re whittling are nothing short of magical. I sit among them in silent awe, watching a waterlily slowly appear in the wood, before Florence beckons me out of the little workshop and we head to our fi nal stop: the drying fi elds. I’ve stepped into a rainbow. Streams of fabric billow in the breeze, rippling like waves in an ocean. Reds and yellows, pinks and purples and blues, hundreds of metres of material hang over washing lines that must surely have been made for giants, rising 20ft into the air. Drying is the fi nal stage of the process — a tough one, too, during the monsoon which drenches Jaipur from July to September. First everything must be washed, and once I’ve found my way out of the fabric jungle, I spot a trio of dhobi standing waist-deep in a large water trough. Pulling the material through their legs, they plunge it into the water before ringing it out and feeding it forwards. It’s all hands on deck — quite literally — and again I’m struck by just how intrinsic people’s hands are in making the city tick. On our way back, I only have to glance out of the window to witness a man building a bicycle and a lady in a saff ron-coloured sari sketching the Albert Hall Museum’s ancient marble latticework. As we re-enter the Old City and get stuck among a sea of rickshaws on Hawa Mahal Road, I spot the sight I’d been searching for the day before. A potter sits quietly at his wheel, fashioning a bowl and so focused on his work the blaring horns don’t so much as make him twitch. At his feet, fi nished pieces fan out around him: patterned plates and intricate water jugs, as well as funky, asymmetrical vases painted in earthen hues that give them a slightly Scandinavian feel. It’s a scene that seems to prove the seamless continuity of Jaipur’s craft traditions, and a rosy future for this pink city of artisans. Q&A with block printing designer Tina Kapoor W H E R E D I D YO U R LOV E O F B LO C K P R I N T I N G COME FROM? Growing up in this area, I’d always admired the art form, but when I studied textile design at Rajasthan University, my love for it flourished. W H Y I S JA I P U R T H E C E N T R E O F I N D I A’ S CRAFT INDUSTRY? Almost all Jaipur’s rulers have been great admirers of arts, literature and crafts. Over the years, renowned artists, artisans and sculptors were invited to come to the city, which made it a major industry hub. H OW D O E S T H E C I T Y INSPIRE YOU? Jaipur’s ancient monuments and temples are a huge inspiration. Many designs seen in block printing today are still heavily influenced by Mughal architecture. There’s no doubt the art form would be different without the presence of these buildings. I N JA I P U R , H OW I S T R A D I T I O N A L B LO C K P R I N T I N G B E I N G A DA P T E D F O R T H E MODERN WORLD? To remain authentic, the technique must stay the same, but there’s lots of scope to change colours and patterns for a modern audience. That’s where I come in, creating contemporary designs to ensure block printing stays abreast of current trends. JAIPUR JUL/AUG 2023 147
Street life ‘Jaipur’s four million residents seem to be out in force, and stalls selling everything from saris to spices sit so close together it’s hard to tell where one ends and the next begins.’ A street scene along Hawa Mahal Road, near the Palace of Winds 148 NATIONALGEOGRAPHIC.COM/TRAVEL
IMAGE: ALAMY JAIPUR JUL/AUG 2023 149
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