QQUUAARRTTEERRLLYY THE LEOPARDS OF JAWAI Holidays in the Wild THE BEST NEW JUNGLE LODGES INDIA’S TOP 10 BIRDING DESTINATIONS
BRIDGE WITH A VIEW You no longer have to fly to China for your glass bridge fix. Just head to Vagamon in Kerala. India’s longest cantilever glass bridge opened to visitors at this charming hill station in Idukki district in August. The 40 metre-long skywalk bridge at ‘Suicide Point’ (don’t get any ideas) is made of five layers of 40 mm glass imported from Germany and ofers panoramic views of the surrounding landscape. Thirty-five tonnes of steel support the entire construction, comprising six metal cables that attach the bridge to steel pillars on the mountain’s summit. On popular demand, the entry fee has been slashed by half to Rs 250. Kannauj, where delicate fragrances have been distilled the traditional way using copper stills for centuries, has always been the unofcial perfume capital of India. Now, thanks to eighth-generation perfume scion Pranav Kapoor of Indian Naturals, visitors can enjoy an immersive perfume tour of Kannauj consisting of visits to an archaeological museum, flower plantation and perfume distillery. Stays are in the Courtyard Suite at 24 MG Road, the ancestral home and heritage perfumery dating from 1912. While the family stays upstairs, the ground floor with the perfumery has been refurbished forthe guest experience and includes a fragrance gallery, perfume bar and the suite. Guests get to create their signature scent, identify ingredients and blend at the perfume bar here. Multi-course gourmet meals are rustled up by Pranav himself who happens to be a trained chef. The haveli will ofer more rooms from next year and another seven-room property, centred around fragrance inspired from 6th-century Kannauj, is in the works. Tarif: The perfumetour costs Rs 15,000. Stay at the Courtyard Suite is Rs 15,000 per night Contact: Pranav Kapoor at +91-8800910920 Travel Never Smelt Sweeter QUARTERLY Tra velPlus SHORTCUTS After war comes peace and, hopefully, tourism follows in due course. The road from Gurez in Kashmir to the Mushkoh Valley in Kargil’s Drass sector is now open to tourists. The route goes over Kaobal Gali, a scenic high-altitude pass perched at an elevation of 4,167 metres above sea level. Mushkoh Valley is, of course, the site of the Kargil War and has been of limits to civilians after 1999. Now Mushkoh, strewn with meadows of wild tulips, beckons once more. All Quietonthe WesternFront
The HillsAreAlive Ziro Festival The 10th edition of this iconic festival will see 10,000 revellers being entertained by 47 Indian and international music acts, including mainstream, Indian classical, folk, EDM and other genres. This time, there will be an additional stage, Takvr, meaning ‘stars’, which will be on from 7 pm to 3 am, apart from the usual Danyi and Pwlo (sun and moon) stages. Ziro, Arunachal Pradesh | Sept. 28-Oct. 1 | 4-day pass for `8,000, per-day costs `2,500 | zirofestival.com India Vision – Mandala Festival It’s the first year for the two-day EDM and folk fusion festival slated to take place in Dirang, Arunachal Pradesh. The vision of Lhakpa Tsering from the local Monpa tribe will bring together folk musicians from across India. Tsering explains how Mandala Top, surrounded by the forests of the Mandala Pass at 10,500 feet, is the perfect location for the fest. Mandala Top, Dirang, Arunachal Pradesh | Nov. 4-5 | Entry fee `1,000 per person per day | www.instagram.com/ mandala_indiavisionfestival Cherry Blossom Festival What started as a celebration of cherry blossoms in Shillong has since grown into a festival encompassing everything from music to beauty pageants to traditional dances to cosplay. Their early lineup is out: former Boyzone-singergone-solo Ronan Keating, London-based DJ Jonas Blue, popular Portuguese Linkin Park tribute band Hybrid Theory, Taiwanese EDM star Kenny Musik and DJ Pink Panda. Local faves like Lou Majaw, hip hop and R&B star Meba Ofilia, and rock band Snow White will also be big draws. Shillong, Meghalaya | Nov. 17-19 | Three-day pass for `3,000 | www.shillongcherryblossom.com Majuli Music Festival After amazing performances by When Chai Met Toast, Rain in Sahara, Gauley Bhai and Lucky Ali in previous years, the indie music festival’s fourth edition promises 40 fabulous acts across three stages. The sustainable fest is committed to boosting the local economy and fostering rural development and tourism. Majuli Island, Assam | Nov. 24-26 | `1,200 per person per day |majulimusicfestival.com Hornbill Festival This pathbreaking cultural and music festival is now in its 23rd edition. The Task Force for Music and Arts (TaFMA), Nagaland, has replaced the contest format with a full-on Hornbill Music Festival this time. Apart from the headlining bands performing in Dimapur, the real Hornbill experience entails getting closer to Naga tribal culture at the main venue. Naga Heritage Village, Kisama, Kohima, Nagaland | Dec. 1-10 | www.hornbillfestival.com Priya Pathiyan PATH TO FREEDOM Tune into these amazing music fests coming up in the musically inclined Northeast QUARTERLY Tra velPlus SHORTCUTS A unique community initiative in the western districts of Arunachal Pradesh seeks to document the Dalai Lama’s journey through the eastern Himalaya on his escape from Chinese pursuers in March 1959. Overthe course of 14 days, the Tibetan entourage travelled on horseback and foot from the border at Khendzemane to Khelong, before proceeding to the railhead in Tezpur where a famous press conference was held on April 18. ‘Project Freedom Trail’—its patron is Arunachal CM Pema Khandu—will mark 13 waypoints where Tibet’s spiritual leader stopped on his journey through what was then known as NEFA. The markers will be tall stones, up to 12 feet high and weighing as much as 7 tonnes. Quarried in Khonoma in the Naga Hills, they are inscribed with text describing the journey in both the Bodhi script and English. The freedom trail stones are likely to be inaugurated in November, but the route is already growing in popularity as a heritage-adventure trail on the 447-km stretch from Zemithang to Orang. Above: TheDalai Lama’s 1959 journey Zirofestival
PANORAMA QUARTERLY Tra velPlus Whenit comes totemple architecture, India is anembarrassmentofriches.Andthe sculpturalplenitudeoftheHoysala templesofKarnatakaputs themtowards the topofthe pile.OntheUNESCOtentative list since2014,the ‘SacredEnsemblesoftheHoysalas’ finallymade ittoWorldHeritageSites listthisSeptember.Datingfromthe 12thand13th centuries,the threemostrepresentative examplesofHosyala temple architecture arepart ofthe inscription.These are theChannakeshavaTemple atBelur,theHoysalesvara Temple inHalebiduand,picturedhere,theKeshavaTemple inSomanathapura. UNESCOhaspraisedthe shrines fortheir‘hyper-real sculptures andstone carvings that coverthe entire architectural surface’. SACRED STONES
INDIA PICTURE
SHUTTERSTOCK
A Few Beauty Spots If you want to see leopards in Rajasthan, go to Jawai, where sightings are plentiful and the rooms cosy at Cheetahgarh By Mitali Saran COVERSTORY FEATURE QUARTERLY Tra velPlus The landscape is, of course, stunning— hills, thorn, sand, bursts of green, and a monsoon sunset pouring glory over all of it—but it’s the rock that makes it so special. The desert scrub is littered with massive slabs of granite, vomited up by volcanoes and shaped by hundreds of millions of years of wind—scalloped, frozen into overhangs like cobra hoods, serrated into patterns, and nudged into arrangements full of cracks and caves that are just perfect for a leopard looking for shade and a little privacy. ALL SET FOR A SAFARI Rotela Lake at the foot of the Aravalis, a perfect starting point for some leopard-spotting in Jawai, Rajasthan
76 INDIA TODAY OCTOBER 9, 2023 One such 1.5 million-year-old, 12-tonne rock stands at the gate of my hotel; it took a month to chisel the words ‘Cheetahgarh Resort & Spa, Bera—A WelcomHeritage Resort’ on its face. Bera is one of several villages around the dam on the Jawai River, and the Jawairegion is synonymous with leopards—an estimated 50 or 60 in the Bera area. My chances of seeing one are apparently 95-100 per cent. That high, forthis shyest of cats? It’s hard to believe. Wildlife safaris are largely about patience and luck, and avoiding disappointment by not setting your heart on one particularthing. My Lake View room at Cheetahgarh is one of 20 aesthetic and well-appointed rooms. I step out onto my balcony at 4.30 am for no reason. Otherthan the faintest shine of water under lamp-like Venus, the world is just folds ofrich velvet darkness. Rotela Lake’s herons and kingfishers are asleep, the two crocodiles are still. I’m glad not to be out on foot—no leopard has attacked a human here in hundreds of years, but I’d rather not be the inaugural statistic. Plus, the place is bristling with kraits, Russell’s vipers, saw-scaled vipers, and cobras. The hotel insists you use their buggy after daylight hours. At 5.30 am, I meet naturalist Varghese Jain, and Bhawani Singh, tracker-driver extraordinaire and among the coolest of Jawai’s cats. Under a flush of dawn, we drive past delicate stalks of sesame and fields of jauhar, to the abandoned mine. Bhawani Singh is looking for his favourite leopard, Neelam, in herfavourite haunts, but the peacocks and monkeys aren’t alarm calling. She’s not in the mine this morning. We try another area full of hardy dhauk trees (Anogeissus pendula) and palash (flame of the forest), occasionally passing through gates of bundled branches and twigs that keep cattle in or out. All the land in this area is privately owned, and conservation is privately run. Hotels and camps have mushroomed among the fields. A red-wattled lapwing flaps past, a kite sits in a tree, a little silverbill looks around near one of the enormous cacti(Euphorbia caducifolia). Bhawani drives straight up a huge rock without batting an eyelid, and we get a dazzling 360-degree view, though not of a leopard. In a third area, he scans the land, and points: “There’s Neelam.” I deploy my best X-ray vision and see rocks and trees and some power lines. He guns the engine and gets us closer. I still see rocks and trees and some power lines—in my defence, that’s the whole point of animal camouflage. Finally, voilà. Leopards are arguably the most beautiful of big cats, and Neelam is a particularly beautiful leopard. She’s sprawled on a rock in the shade of a dhauk, looking over QUARTERLY Tra velPlus COVERSTORY FEATURE
OCTOBER 9, 2023 INDIA TODAY 77 her shoulderin elegant profile, alert butrelaxed. Bhawani is a bit of a stan account as far as Neelam goes. I’m latertold a story about how he once left a great sighting and inexplicably parked somewhere else. Soon enough, Neelam walked away from all the jeeps, came straight to Bhawani’s spot, and gave his guests a fabulous private sighting. He knows this leopard. He loves her. She’s the wallpaper on his phone. He tells me she has a seven-month-old cub. A female will mate with lots of males, including her sons, but retains some control over which will impregnate her. It’s called false mating, and is designed to fool each male into thinking the cubs might be his, so that he doesn’t kill them. There was a report the previous night that she may have sufered a minor injury, but, I venture, she seems fine. Bhawani, misty-eyed, replies, “She’s perfect.” At the resort, I step into Svasti Spa for a deep tissue massage and a sauna. Then to the restaurant for a fantastic gazpacho and salad lunch with the afable general manager, Karan Bakshi, who gives the impression of a man who has never met a problem he couldn’t solve. He tells me that resort owners are trying to self-regulate so that there aren’t too many jeeps in the area at one time, and the star attraction can flourish in peace. The restaurant has a wide selection of cuisines, but he says he’s taking me somewhere special for dinner. There’s high tea for guests in the restaurant (no room service, so don’t ask) but I preferto watch clouds scud overthe lake. In the evening, Bhawani races up a massive rock in reverse and I get a bird’s-eye view of the Aravali hills, of russet rock and anwal (Senna auriculata) bushes with bright yellow A ROYAL TREAT Patrons being treated to barbecued delights; (far left) a lake-view room at the WelcomHeritage Cheetahgarh Resort & Spa, Bera
78 INDIA TODAY OCTOBER 9, 2023 flowers whose leaves he says are used for mehndi, and bark in shoe polish. Near Kothar village, we drive past an Indian thick-knee bird, hear a laughing dove, glimpse a Brahminy starling. We stop to help a soft-shell turtle of the road, and watch cattle egrets picking of insects kicked up by cows’ hooves. No luck with Neelam, so we try Lilorah village, the territory of Jia, a nineyear-old female with three cubs. We wait at the foot of a massive hill while flocks of goats and sheep are herded home a few feet away by red-turbaned Rabari shepherds. There isn’t much wild prey in Jawai—no deer, just a few nilgai, monkeys, peacocks and other birds, wild boar, porcupines, small wild cats. But Getting there: Three hours’ drive from Jodhpur airport, 2 hr 45 mins from Udaipur airport, 20-minute drive from Jawai Band railway station Resort rooms: Lake-view rooms, chalets with private gardens, chalet with private heated pool, and Khema tents. The most popular package is room with breakfast, high tea, dinner, and one safari per day (winter price ranges from Rs 28,000 to Rs 75,000 plus taxes per room per night, depending on the room category) Special dining: Signature Dining in the wilderness with chef and butler (starts from Rs 5,000 plus taxes per person and can go up to Rs 10,000 plus taxes per person). Jawai Under the Sky operates only in the evening for wood-fired pizza, barbecue and some special pastas (cover charge of Rs 3,000 plus taxes, redeemable against food and liquor). Contact: +91-9711119344, cheetahgarh.com QUARTERLY Tra velPlus
OCTOBER 9, 2023 INDIA TODAY 79 COVERSTORY FEATURE it’s a smorgasbord of cattle, sheep, goats, and dogs. Jawai’s leopards prey on these at will, and scavenge cattle corpses left in the scrub. In some places that would get a leopard killed—goats and sheep are about Rs 5,000 a pop, cattle double that—but the villagers are happy to give up a few livestock to what they consider a quasi-divine being. No Jia this evening, but dinner is quasi-divine. Bhawani zooms up another massive rock in the dark and deposits me on the wide flat top. There’s nothing here but the stars, the wind, a candlelit table, and full bar service. It’s what the resort calls Signature Dining—a wilderness location with luxury dining. A private chef and butler spin out a series of barbecued delights while I chat with Mr Bakshi and sip Godawan single malt named after Rajasthan’s endangered state bird, the great Indian bustard. The highlight of eight plates is a pile of melt-in-themouth mutton. The table is gorgeous, the breeze is cool, the stars twinkle. This is how dining should be. Speaking of stars, do not miss the resort telescope in the clear desert sky. I can’t believe I’m actually looking at Saturn, 1.3 billion kilometres away—those rings, and its moon Titan!—and Jupiter, 643 million kilometres away—those stripes! There’s the star Vega, 25 light years away, and Procyon 11.4 light years away. I have goosebumps. At the crack of dawn, we visit a Rabari family before the men take their herds of forthe day. The landscape around Kotar Bagal village is jewelled in anwal flowers. In a hut made of straightened dhauk branches and roofed with dried palash leaves and a tarp, a woman is making rotis forlunch, and she boils up some delicious sweet tea for us. We are introduced to Kishore the camel and Sheru the dog. I ask one man about his tattoos, and his face explodes into gleeful wrinkles. “I used to be very beautiful,” he says conspiratorially, “This was to avoid the evil eye.” He’s still beautiful, in his blood-red turban, white garments, and jewellery. The Rabaris’ matriarchal, semi-nomadic herder culture is fascinating, but it’s a hard way of life, one the children don’t want, and I wonder how long it will last. It’s too hot to walk once the sun is up, so after breakfast I visit the gym. The rooms have power backup against frequent power cuts, and I like to think they will soon also put the gym machines on a UPS. In a sudden evening downpour, we drive to Jagtala, a rocky hill that Neelam likes. Bhawani parks us up away from a crowd of jeeps, on a rise facing the hill. Ninety minutes have passed when a magnificent leopard shimmers into view. He’s a mass of roiling muscles just slightly more golden than the rock. It’s Chhote Kaan, Neelam’s cub and occasional beau, the area’s dominant male. He stands and looks around, yawns, strolls slowly up the rock face, and disappears over the crest as gold explodes across the sky. Those couple of minutes are more than worth the wait. We visit the scenic Jawai dam under a blood-red sunset before heading home. Dinneris at the resort’s Jawai Under the Sky—an al fresco treat of fresh pizza from a wood-fired oven, and tasty barbecued meats. I cap my trip with a morning nature walk. Varghese Jain can correctly identify what to me looks like a smudge against a jumble dozens of yards away. I need his monoscope at Rotela Lake to watch sunbirds, kingfishers, egrets, beeeaters, white-browed wagtails, bulbuls, black-headed ibis, ashy-crowned sparrow lark, the beautiful grey Eurasian collared dove, and jezebel and tiger butterflies. Even one of the crocodiles briefly heaves itself into view. It’s not just leopards, you know. I leave already wanting to come back to Jawai and Cheetahgarh, where the sky is epic, the rooms are comfy, the food is good, the rocks are hot, the cats are cool, and the chances of seeing one are, I concede, 95-100 per cent. Go. You won’tregret it. DELIGHTFUL AT NIGHT A view of the lobby and pool at the Cheetahgarh Resort
THE BEST NEW WILDLIFE LODGES You don’t have to eschew the trappings of luxury to take a walk on the wild side. Just stay at one of these properties By Sharmistha Chaudhuri QUARTERLY Tra velPlus WILDLIFE LODGES Bori Safari Lodge, Bori Wildlife Sanctuary, Madhya Pradesh Spread over 7.5 acres of farmland and with eight luxurious cottages decorated with natural elements like rattan and wood juxtaposed with minimal, modern furnishings, the Bori Safari Lodge provides a welcome retreat from the hustle and bustle of urban living. Located just minutes from the Bori Wildlife Sanctuary, the lodge, run by the Jehan Numa Group of Hotels, gives guests a chance to reconnect with nature amid lush, rustic settings. Go on wildlife safaris and 4x4 game drives and learn about the local flora and fauna with a naturalist guide, rejuvenate the soul at the inhouse spa and pool and feast at the restaurant which serves farm-to-table delicacies. Also experience the local culture on village walks, and go on anthropological excursions with the forest dwellings in Dhapada. In this age of social media, experience a slice of heaven in what is still an underthe-radar destination. FROM `35,000, including meals www.jehannuma.com/bori-safari-lodge 82 INDIA TODAY OCTOBER 9, 2023
Chunda Shikar Oudi, Udaipur, Rajasthan A former hunting outpost of the noblesturned-nature retreat, Chunda Shikar Oudi, with its easy airport accessibility, is a treat. Boasting two accommodation units, one on either side of a water body, the suites have stunning views, are decked with all amenities, furnished with custom-made furniture and artfully decorated to exude luxury. For wildlife enthusiasts, the property ofers safaris and nature walks, fishing and birdwatching excursions among other experiences like horse riding and yoga. Guests can enjoy curated fine dining and meals made with locally sourced ingredients at various locations— breakfast by the poolside, a sundowner at leopard point or private dinners by the lakeside! Enjoy a weekend of luxury, and it’s just a flight away. « Taj Corbett Resort & Spa, Ramnagar, Uttarakhand A luxurious 11-acre property featuring 75 cottage-style rooms seasoned wildlife enthusiasts may be well familiar with, Taj Corbett Resort & Spa recently unveiled a new collection of 11 lavish suites to cater to a guest’s every need. These new suites boast floorto-ceiling French windows and a private river-facing sit-out in the lap of nature. The suites are done in earthy tones and use natural materials to evoke a sense of rustic charm, and the décoris inspired by the verdant foliage, with every design piece an ode to the indigenous flora FROM `46,000* chundashikaroudi.com *all charges are per night and fauna. Nine of the 11 suites are already in operation and guests can enjoy this tranquil retreat and indulge in their wildlife safari dreams in what could be an unforgettable getaway. FROM `45,000 www.tajhotels.com
QUARTERLY Tra velPlus WILDLIFE LODGES Wayanad Wild, Lakkidi, Kerala If peeking out of treetops in the heart of a rainforest is your dream, a stay at Wayanad Wild will fulfil it. This surreal CGH Earth property is nestled in the heart of nature in northern Kerala. The spacious rooms, each with a balcony overlooking stunning views of green trees, are fitted with modern amenities and the chilly hills provide natural air-conditioning. The infinity pool tipping over into the foliage feels surreal, night safaris tread into darkness to rendezvous with resident nocturnal friends, and guided foot expeditions are a learning experience about the local wilderness. For the adventure-minded, bamboo rafting and ziplining are arranged. Work up an appetite to devour fresh meals made by the inhouse chef that reflect the local tastes but with twists to cater to the well-travelled guest. FROM `12,000 www.cghearth.com/wayanad-wild Saj in the Forest, Pench, Madhya Pradesh This luxurious boutique resort adjacent to the Pench National Park—the same forest that inspired The Jungle Book—is a welcome getaway from the cityscape. Embodying the natural, serene setting of the region, this 19-room property has accommodation in three categories (all named after a local landmark tree species—Mahua, Palash, Sal), is aesthetically pleasing and weaves in elements of local art and culture. The food at the inhouse restaurant is a blend of Indian and global cuisines, ofering something for every type of visitor. The resort ofers a variety of activities like the thoughtfully curated jungle safari, a backwaters safari set in a secret location or a pottery session at the nearby village. FROM `10,000 www.sajresort.com « 84 INDIA TODAY OCTOBER 9, 2023
QUARTERLY Tra velPlus WILDLIFE LODGES WelcomHeritage Tadoba Vanya Villas Resort & Spa, Chandrapur, Maharashtra Spread across 65 acres and with a private lake, this resort is a haven for tiger lovers because it’s bang in the midst of the Tadoba Andhari Tiger Reserve, home to the largest number of tigers in the country. Boasting a total of 40 accommodations divided into three categories, including eight luxury tents, WelcomHeritage Tadoba Vanya Villas Resort & Spa ofers guests every indulgence, including soulful spa and wellness treatments, enthralling wildlife safaris and so much more. The resort has two restaurants and a bar ofering lavish spreads and grills to satiate tastebuds of all hues. The resort also has a conference room and swimming pool facilities. FROM `13,384 www.welcomheritagehotels.in Tipai, Tipeshwar Wildlife Sanctuary, Maharashtra Designed with the natural landscape in mind using local materials, Tipai embodies the joys of wildlife beyond the usual safaris and sightings. Ofering a personalised, bespoke experience to guests, the 34-acre lodge has four poolside residencies and 11 forest villas. Located along the bufer zone of the wildlife sanctuary, it boasts views of a well-conserved landscape. Guests going on private safaris are provided binoculars to enjoy the diverse wildlife and can partake in sundowners at the machaan. Chef’s delights include specially curated meals using locally sourced, seasonal ingredients. And if a sudden matter of urgency needs attention, one can use the stateof-the-art boardroom to attend to it. FROM `59,999 « wildlifeluxuries.com/tipai
QUARTERLY Tra velPlus WILDLIFE LODGES The Untamed Bandhavgarh, Bandhavgarh, Madhya Pradesh Surrounded by the untrammelled beauty of Bandhavgarh National Park, The Ultimate Travelling Camp’s luxury tented retreat is an ideal base to explore one of India’s prettiest forests. Located on 16 acres of private land opposite the reserved core zone of the forest, each luxury tent (they have 10) is tastefully designed and comes fully equipped with amenities for a serene stay away from home (including a writing desk with stationery). Wake up to birdcalls and then head out to a safari in prime tiger terrain. After the day’s big cat adventures,rejuvenate in the spa or gaze out into the wilderness from the gazebo, play a round of billiards before enjoying an al fresco meal at the camp’s multi-cuisine restaurant. The camp also ofers butler services and curated journeys. FROM `35,000 tutc.com 88 INDIA TODAY OCTOBER 9, 2023
QUARTERLY Tra velPlus WILDLIFE LODGES This brand-new luxury tented resort is nestled in the foothills of the Himalayas, adjacent to the Rajaji National Park. The latest property in the Claridges Collection portfolio, it is spread over 50 acres with 11 lavishly-curated tented lodgings adorned with elegant furnishings. Aalia Jungle Retreat & Spa’s tranquil, understated sophistication creates an inviting atmosphere for guests. Apart from guided nature walks and safaris with expert naturalists, the retreat ofers activities like horse-riding, archery and golf. Guests can also enjoy bespoke picnics beneath mango trees or bask in the swimming pool, revitalise with a spa treatment or practise yoga surrounded by nature. Aalia Jungle Retreat & Spa, Bandarjudh, Uttarakhand The Riverwood Forest Retreat, Kanha, Madhya Pradesh This new forestretreat, underthe umbrella of Waxpol Hotels and Resorts, embodies environmental sustainability as its core philosophy, and aims to provide guests with conscious luxury experiences set within the most natural surroundings. The group has been a frontrunnerin ecotourism, and this property is no diferent, boasting solar energy, a sewage treatment plant and green materials for construction. Located midway between the Kisli and Mukki gates of the Kanha National Park and overlooking a water body, the retreat has 18 spacious cottages with large glass windows to showcase the locale’s breathtaking views. Guests can partake in jeep safaris, nature walks, birdwatching tours and photography expeditions, or enjoy local village excursions before unwinding at the retreat’s spa. End the day with delicious food at Tilao, the inhouse restaurant. FROM `20,000 www.waxpolhotels.com FROM `13,600 claridges.com/aalia-jungle-retreat-and-spa « 90 INDIA TODAY OCTOBER 9, 2023
Flight Path The top 10 Indian birding destinations to swoop in on this winter By Bijoy Venugopal QUARTERLY Tra velPlus BIRDING DESTINATIONS Jim Corbett National Park, Uttarakhand With over 580 recorded species, Corbett is treasured for its rich birdlife and vast diversity of habitats from forests to riverine grasslands. There are many well-known trails, including the Dhikala grasslands and the Ramganga riverbed. Target species include the rare Ibisbill, Himalayan Rubythroat and Wallcreeper. An Indian Roller at the Jim Corbett National Park Photographs by SHUTTERSTOCK
Winter is coming. For birders, that’s not a Game of Thrones reference but a call to make travel plans as the migration season brings avian visitors to the subcontinent. Birders, forthe uninitiated, are serious enthusiasts who make life lists and keep count of the species they see, while birdwatchers are mostly just casual observers. Birders may stretch their enthusiasm to great lengths, often making transcontinental air-hops to see their‘target species’. This kind of trophy-hunting, derisively called twitching, is not loved by climate activists. That said, as birding gains popularity, so have the destinations that birders seek out. This limited list of the top birding destinations in India is one that will most certainly rufe some feathers. EaglenestWildlife Sanctuary, Arunachal Pradesh Eaglenest is a small communitymanaged protected area in the northeast Indian state’s Kameng Elephant Reserve. It shot to fame in 1995 with the discovery of a new bird species, the Bugun Liocichla, named after the Bugun community that inhabits the region. With great variations in altitude and vegetation, this dense forest landscape hosts over 450 bird species, including the Ward’s Trogon, Sclater’s Monal and the Rufous-necked Hornbill. « « Hemis National Park, Ladakh This vast 4,400 sq. km wilderness area, just 10 km north of Leh, is famed forits snow leopard population. It is also on the radar of birders, who visit in late spring and early summerto watch high-altitude species such as the Snow Partridge, Snow Pigeon, Lammergeier and Himalayan Snowcock. Mangalajodi Wetlands,Odisha Just west of Chilika, India’s largest brackish waterlake, these freshwater wetlands in Odisha’s Khordha district are easily approached by road orrail from Bhubaneswar. In winter, fisherfolk navigate the shallow marshes by flat-bottomed punts propelled with poles. The Mangalajodi Ecotourism Centre, run by the local community, operates guided safari tours. The guides are rehabilitated poachers who now employ their exceptional field skills to great efect. Visit Mangalajodi in winterfor great views of the Ruddy Shelduck, Northern Pintail, Slaty-breasted Rail, Gadwall, Common Teal and Glossy Ibis. Kaziranga National Park,Assam Home to the Great Indian OneHorned Rhinoceros, Kaziranga is equally a magnet for birds, with over 470 species recorded in its forests, grasslands and riverine habitats. Birders flock here in winter to see the Bengal Florican, Pallas’s Fish Eagle and Swamp Francolin. Crimson Sunbird Chukar Partridge Black-faced Laughingthrush Ruddy Shelduck INDIA PICTURE INDIA PICTURE
QUARTERLY Tra velPlus BIRDING DESTINATIONS Keoladeo Ghana National Park, Rajasthan Formerly a private hunting reserve of the princely state of Bharatpur and named after a temple dedicated to Lord Shiva located in its core zone, Keoladeo Ghana is one of the best-known birding destinations in India. A plaque documenting the bags of waterfowl shot for sport during colonial times is a shocking reminder of the abundance of birdlife this wetland once hosted. Accessible by road and rail from Delhi, Mathura and Agra, Bharatpur is best visited from October to February. The park’s star attraction, the Siberian Crane, has not been recorded fortwo decades. However, other target species include the Sarus Crane, Black-necked Stork, Dalmatian Pelican, Eurasian Spoonbill and Dusky Eagle-owl. Salim AliBird Sanctuary, Thattekad, Kerala Commended by the late ornithologist Dr Sálim Ali as peninsular India’s richest bird habitat, Thattekad is a tiny sanctuary at the foot of the Western Ghats in Kerala’s Ernakulam district where the Periyar descends into the plains. The deciduous forests here are home to an array of bird species, including the Malabar Grey Hornbill, Sri Lanka Frogmouth, Black Baza, Great Eared Nightjar, Rufous Babbler and Crimsonthroated Barbet. Homestays near the forest entrance ofer expert guided walks along with meals and lodging. Malabar Grey Hornbill A Greater Flamingo flock at the Keoladeo Ghana National Park 96 INDIA TODAY OCTOBER 9, 2023 INDIA PICTURE
QUARTERLY Tra velPlus COVERSTORY FEATURE While birding brings us great enjoyment, it is important to realise that birds face various threats from human activity. The State of India’s Birds, 2023, a report released recently by a consortium of conservation bodies, stresses the sobering fact that 39 per cent of our birds have shown a sharp decline in numbers caused by land-use change, urbanisation, ecosystem degradation, monocultures, disease, infrastructure development, pet trade, hunting, pollution and climate change. As birding brings increased footfalls to protected areas, the pressure is on operators to conduct tourism activities in a sustainable manner. Responsible birders take the initiative to enjoy their hobby with the least possible disturbance to birds and their environment, while following ethical practices such as avoiding nest photography, shunning call playback to lure birds and taking back their garbage. Before you narrow down on your bird guide, make sure that they check all the boxes for ethical and responsible tourism. Happy birding! Sundarbans National Park, WestBengal This protected area comprising the dense mangrove forests of the Gangetic delta is spread across 54 islands crisscrossed by channels and distributaries. While best known as the home of the majestic Royal Bengal Tiger, it is a unique ecosystem that shelters birds like the Masked Finfoot and Mangrove Pitta. It is also the best place to see diverse kingfisher species, including the Brown-winged Kingfisher, Black-capped Kingfisher and Collared Kingfisher. Nal SarovarBird Sanctuary, Gujarat Gujarat’s largest wetland bird sanctuary, Nal Sarovar, is located just an hour’s drive west of Ahmedabad. Over 200 bird species have been recorded here in appreciable numbers. Birders make a beeline in winter to see the Greater Flamingo, Indian Skimmer, Pied Avocet and Common Crane. Ranganathittu Bird Sanctuary, Karnataka This string of riverine islets in the fast-flowing Kaveri River near Mysuru was declared a protected area in 1940 at the insistence of Dr Sálim Ali. With broadleaf forests, riverine reed beds and exposed rocks, the islands form an important breeding ground for birds such as the Painted Stork, Indian River Tern, Great Thick-knee, Spot-billed Pelican and Streak-throated Swallow. Black-headed Bunting Spot-billed Pelican Ruddy Kingfisher 98 INDIA TODAY OCTOBER 9, 2023 INDIA PICTURE INDIA PICTURE
Kareena Kapoor-Khan is a seasoned traveller with a bucket list that is as exotic as it gets Whatisyour favourite travel destination? Tat’s a tough one! Switzerland is a forever favourite for both Saif and me. I prefer beaches for fun with friends and family. London,New York andDubai are my favourite shopping destinations. So ‘all-time favourite’ depends on the purpose oftravel!(Laughs.)In India, my favourite destinations are Ladakh andRajasthan. I have been to Ladakh for so many shoots and it surprises me every time. I loveRajasthanifood and the colour one sees everywhere! How doyoumanage those effortless airportlooks? Inever skipsleepbeforeandafteraflight. Igotused tojetlagearlyinlife.Evennowifithits,I catchup onsleepandhydrate,whichhelpsminimiseexhaustion.TefirstthingIdowhenI reachadestinationishavemygreentea!It calmsmedown. Anyexotic food experiencesyou’vehad while travelling? Iprefer simplegharkakhanaoverexotic foods.Tat said,I comefromafamilyoffoodies, soIamfondofmyItalianandmyred wine.IamcarefulaboutwhatIeat.When indoubt,Ioptforvegetarianfare. Whatis themostvaluable lessonyou've learned from your travels? Tatthereallessonsarenotin books!Wereadsomuchstuff thatwehardlyeverapply!NowI lookbackandthinkthatI should’ve learntatleastoneforeignlanguage. Orphotography.Oranadventuresport. What are the topfive destinations on your bucketlist? I wantto doChina as well as Machu Picchu.We just did Masai Mara. Russia, perhaps. And why not Antarctica—justfor the adventure! In India, I wantto explore the Northeast, especially Meghalaya and the tea gardens. with Aarti Kapur Singh 102 Volume 48-Number 41; For the week October 03-09, 2023, published on every Friday Total number of pages 104 (including cover pages) QUARTERLY Tra velPlus The Art of Travel Photograph by SASHA JAIRAM FOR HARPER'S BAZAAR INDIA, Styling by DIVYAK D'SOUZA, Outfit: RIMZIM DADU, Earrings & Romani Watch: BULGARI Q A
DESTINATION GOA’S HIPPEST NEW HOTSPOTS AUTO VOLVO’S NEW ALL-ELECTRIC C40 RECHARGE THE GOOD LIFE RNI NO. DELENG / 2005 / 15332 *Not for sale. To be circulated free with India Today in Mumbai, Delhi & NCR, Chennai, Bangalore, Kolkata, Hyderabad and Chandigarh. “Supplement to India Today issue dated October 9, 2023”. SEPTEMBER 2023 TRAVEL SPECIAL The new highs of Dubai’s changing travelscape DREAM DESTINATION
INDIA TODAY SPICE 2 SEPTEMBER 2023 e-mail your letters to: [email protected] Volume 19Number 9; September 2023 Copyright Living MediaIndia Ltd. All rightsreserved throughout the world. Reproduction in any manner is prohibited. Printed and published by Manoj Sharma on behalf of Living Media India Limited.Printed at ThomsonPress India Limited, 18-35 Milestone, Delhi MathuraRoad, Faridabad-121007, (Haryana). Published at F-26, First Floor,ConnaughtPlace, New Delhi-110001. Editorial/CorporateOfce: Living Media India Ltd.,India Today Group Mediaplex, FC-8, Sector-16A, Film City,Noida - 201301. Editor:RajChengappa India Today does not takeresponsibilityfor returning unsolicited publication material. (AroonPurie) Chairman and Editor-in-Chief Aroon Purie ViceChairperson Kalli Purie GroupChief ExecutiveOfcerDinesh Bhatia Group Editorial Director Raj Chengappa Chief ExecutiveOfcerManoj Sharma GroupCreative Editor NilanjanDas Group Photo Editor Bandeep Singh Deputy Editor Chumki Bharadwaj Creative Editor Sanjay Piplani SeniorArt DirectorAngshumanDe Deputy VisualResearch Editor Prabhakar Tiwari PrincipalPhotoResearcher Saloni Vaid ProductionHarish Aggarwal (Chief of Production), NaveenGupta IMPACT TEAM General Manager Suman Sharma Head LuxuryNorth and East Sweta Kapoor GroupChief MarketingOfcer Vivek Malhotra LETTER FROM THE EDITOR-IN-CHIEF ALBERT EINSTEIN ONCE FAMOUSLY NOTED: “The distinction between the past, present,and futureis onlyastubbornly persistent illusion.” It is this illusion that Dubai has carefullyand constantly recreated to reinvent itselfand reimaginethefuture. Interestingly, the most recentaddition to the Emirate’s litany of iconic landmarks is the Museum of the Future, which explores the possibilitiesand potential of futuresocieties. Given its transformation from atrading port to a hedonistic hotspot that sports many global frsts, Spice did a deep diveinto whatenthrals the world about thisescapist haven. From thetallest building to the most glittering gold souk, to decadent hotels, thelargest man-madeisland,and even the world’s mostextensive natural fower garden, Dubai now adds the world’s longest, steepest, fastest urban zipline, one that fitsacross the Dubai Marinaat 80km per hour. Foraesthetesand design doyens, the new Design district boastsedgy neighbourhoods that forge bespoke boutiquesamidst charming bistrosand art galleries, while gourmands can explore astartling range of cuisine, littered with Michelin stars. Weround up the best of what was,and the glitzy new charms of this desert citythat unfailinglyrises to every occasion. From new and shinyto the patina of history, Spice takes up residenceat therecently opened Rosewood Vienna, housed in thesame building where Mozart lived. What’s more, it is thevery frst luxury hotel opening in Vienna aftera hiatus ofalmost ten years. The neoclassical hotel building has been reimagined and embellished and is now every bitasexquisiteand diverse as therococo and Art Nouveau treasures that festoon Vienna. Historic buildings-turned hotels seem to bethetrend du jour,as Goa plays host to Neemrana’s Three Waters in Betul,a fsherman’s villagein South Goa. The original building dates back to 1907 when it served asa Portuguesecustoms house. Goaalso welcomes its frst Nikkei cuisineeatery, Heliconiaat the JW Mariottand thestate’s frst Agave-centric bar, Bar Flyin Assagao, in North Goa. Who says spirits can onlysoar when soaked in alcohol? Spice’s road trip around Ladakh in the Land Rover Defender proved justas heady. From Srinagar in Kashmir, wecrossed over to Ladakh over the Zoji La, wound along the Suru River through Kargil, beforeturning east toward Leh, with layoversat some of the most luxurious glamping sites in thearea. If riding the Defender meant being cocooned in leatherand insulated from the sounds of the world, whileadmiring Ladakh’sexceptional landscapes, test driving theall-electric Volvo C40 Recharge wasatotal shift in gears to Scandinavian minimalism. This is the Swedish manufacturer’s latest ofering for theIndian market,and the frst luxurycar in thecountryto come with Vegan interiors. There isabsolutely no leather in thecabin,and even thecarpetsare madefrom recycled plastic bottles. Powering toward a greener futureis the only wayto sustain travel in perpetuity. Carpe Diem!
INDIA TODAY SPICE 3 SEPTEMBER 2023 30 34 Goa’s new vibe straddles the North and the South Indulging the charms of the Romeo y Julieta SOARING SPIRITS ROMANCING THE WRAPPER DESTINATION GOA’S HIPPEST NEW HOTSPOTS AUTO VOLVO’S NEW ALL-ELECTRIC C40 RECHARGE THE GOOD LIFE RNI NO. DELENG / 2005 / 15332 *Not for sale. To be circulated free with India Today in Mumbai, Delhi & NCR, Chennai, Bangalore, Kolkata, Hyderabad and Chandigarh. “Supplement to India Today issue dated October 9, 2023”. SEPTEMBER 2023 TRAVEL SPECIAL The new highs of Dubai’s changing travelscape DREAM DESTINATION DUBAI’S CONSTANT REINVENTION IS ITS BIGGEST LURE THE DESERT ROSE 10 ON THE COVER MUSEUM OF THE FUTURE, DUBAI; COVER PHOTOGRAPH GETTY IMAGES COVER STORY CONTENTS S E P T E M B E R 2 0 2 3
INDIA TODAY SPICE 4 SEPTEMBER 2023 16 Discovering Ladakh’s lunar landscape riding the Land Rover Defender SOULFUL JOURNEYS 40 ‘Made in India’ is the toast of the whisky industry THE NEW PEG CONTENTS S E P T E M B E R 2 0 2 3
INDIA TODAY SPICE 5 SEPTEMBER 2023 LETTER FROM THE EDITOR-IN-CHIEF 2 HOT LAUNCHES-F&B LASTLOOK 54 FETISH 9 Bring home the world MOVEABLE FEAST 22 Toasting Georgia WINE-ING WAYS 37 27 Vienna’s newest luxury outpost after 10 years PAST PERFECT 50 Volvo’s Swede rocket IT’S ELECTRIC 46 Heliconia 48 Indian Accent 45 PVR Director’s Cut The Rosewood Vienna
INDIA TODAY SPICE 6 SEPTEMBER 2023 Any anthology on jewellery is bound to be a passionate narrative since nothing outlines desire quite as evocatively as pirouetting jewels strung together in metal’s sensual embrace. So also the case with Francesca Amfitheatrof’s tome on Louis Vuitton’s revolutionary jewellery collections. The Artistic Director of Jewelry and Watches from the Maison brings home a new perspective to the ancient art of jewellery design with this book, much as a storyteller would with a novel. This book ofers the reader an engrossing read and glimpse into four extraordinary jewellery collections, detailing the alchemical journey from raw materials and drawing board inspiration to the final rendition of the refined jewel. Written in a journallike style and picketed with sketches, gouaches, collages, and personal photographs, fabulous jewels showcase the artistry with which Amfitheatrof has breathed soul and a contemporary idiom into the time-honoured craft of jewellery-making. Collaborating with acclaimed art director Fabien Baron, Amfitheatrof masterfully creates a strikingly personal story that mirrors her unique aesthetic, encapsulated within luxurious packaging. Now that’s an afair to remember. Publication Date: September 26th, 2023; Format Hardcover Category; Publisher Rizzoli Trim Size 10-1/2 x 13 inches; Pages 264; Price €115 By Chumki Bharadwaj HOTSHEET COLLECTOR’S EDITION Sparkle Saga ROMANCING THE STONE All the jewellery showcased in the book draws on four extraordinary jewellery collections from the Maison PHOTOGRAPH: LAZIZ HAMANI PHOTOGRAPH: LAZIZ HAMANI PHOTOGRAPH: SOLVE SUNDSBO PHOTOGRAPH: LAZIZ HAMANI
INDIA TODAY SPICE 7 SEPTEMBER 2023 Butter me Up Coco Paradise is the name of the new tropical collection from Bath & Body Works, and no prizes for guessing why. Sensual, exotic and dreamy, it’s the sweetest way to escape to paradise. With salted coconut monoi, sugared neroli and bronzed sandalwood, need we remind you, life’s a beach! Price `2,499 (Body Butter); Availability Brand stores; bathandbodyworks.in HOTSHEET B E A U T Y Cool as a Cucumber Botanically, cucumbers are fruits, but when it comes to beauty they are definitely among the super foods. The new Cucumber Quench from 82°E is a clear gel that simply gets soaked up by the skin in seconds. Crafted with cucumber and xylitol, it’s perfect tobalance excess oil and hydrate. Price ` 2,700 (50 ml); Availability 82e.com Forever fragrance True, perfume is a mood elevator, but with so many fragrances to suit different dispositions, there are few that are whimsical, warm the heart, and soothe the soul; Idôle from Lancôme captures that everyday vibe. Its unique blend of cleanliness, freshness, and floral notes is as elegant as it is individualistic. Price ` 9,500 (Eau De Parfum) 100 ml An Apple a day… …In the absence of which, the Juice Beauty India CC cream with SPF 30, entirely made with green apples, is a good start. Juice Beauty India’s offers this multi-tasking formula that shields you from the sun too. It also includes aloe vera, coconut oil, and jojoba oil to plump up, colorcorrect and prime your skin. Talk about a hardworking multi-tasker to perk up your day. Price ` 6,550; Availability https://www.boddess.com/ TRIED & TESTED mo This lightweight for h i o suriser is perfect the thic t k humid days and like a gel feels more o salve, but fers a matte look. TRIED & TESTED Mild enough for easy layering. Plus, the bottle is only 15 mm thick---the slimmest bottle in the world to date!
INDIA TODAY SPICE 8 SEPTEMBER 2023 Are you being Served? Oozing oodles of panache, barware and stemware couldn’t get any more funky than this Funky Bull Dog Figurine from Smokey Cocktail. Their recent masterpiece: the Storage Sculpture collection is a clever ensemble that seamlessly combines practicality with opulence. For inspiration alone, this amusing bull dog in green with gold accents is a conversation starter, if not poised as a post-modern artwork. Price `19,999; Availability www.smokeycocktail.com Forest Fruits ‘First evers’ always hold a special place; talk about the first mover advantage or simply the novelty factor. Glenmorangie A Tale of the Forest is the brand’s first whisky ever to be crafted from barley kilned with woodland botanicals. Deliciously herbaceous, this limitededition variant boasts delightful flavours of pine, juniper and woodsmoke, led by illustrator Pomme Chan’s own version of a fantastical forest showcased on the whisky pack. Price `11,500 (in Mumbai) and `7,500 (in Gurgaon); Availability Gurgaon and Mumbai March of the Icons What do you call a collaboration between two iconic British fashion brands? Fortuitous! Mulberry and Paul Smith have just launched an exclusive collection of leather bags that embodies the best of craftsmanship as well as the quintessentially British wit and spirit—time to bag that arm candy. Price on request; Availability Paul Smith Stores at DLF Emporio and Jio World Drive The Party is Lit If you imagine candles to be part of the burn and throw brigade, sample these special limited edition candles from Seva Home, in collaboration with renowned artist and sculptor, Suryakant Lokhande. Available in two variants, the Maharaja and Maharani, the unique wooden candle has been designed like a vintage matchbox with the portrait of a Maharaja or Maharani. While the Maharaja Candle carries the scent of “Aqua”, the Maharani Candle evokes the scent of “Berries”. Savour the scent and the sensibility. Price `22,000 (Maharani); `17,000 (Maharaja) Availability www.sevahome.in HOTSHEET P I C K O F T H E M O N T H
INDIA TODAY SPICE 9 SEPTEMBER 2023 FETISH Anniversaries are the perfect time to review, renew and refresh past mandates, especially when it comes to marquee brands. So it came as no surprise when watch brand Frederique Constant unveiled a new version of Highlife Worldtimer Manufacture to celebrate 35 incredible years of its journey. The anniversary ofering includes two Highlife Worldtimer Manufacture watches—one in 18-carat rose gold in a limited edition of 35 and the other in an unlimited edition in steel sporting a chocolate-coloured dial. Both variations feature a 41mm diameter and comes with either one or two additional, interchangeable straps. The contemporary watch has a classic multifaceted case that shows of the shimmering gleam of precious metal to the optimum; the Manufacture has enhanced the resulting interplay of light by ofsetting the brushed case with a polished bezel and crown. The subtle embellishments make for a classic statement; true style never shouts. Price on request; Availability Brand Stores Time Traveller
INDIA TODAY SPICE 10 SEPTEMBER 2023 From the ethereal charms of old-world souks to postmodern malls that ofer the earth, the desert rises to every occasion. Enjoy languorous beach hours, heartstopping adventure or simply bliss out at a gourmet haute spot. Here’s looking at the old and the new. By CHUMKI BHARADWAJ HOURS INDUBAI
A s the glitzy neon arms of the unending skylinesnaketheir way up to embracethe night skies, it’s diffcult not to get starryeyed. It isn’t just becauseyou’resquinting to locatethe crown on the world’s tallest building, but because Dubai is conceived and executed asalibrary of superlatives: the most glittering gold souk, the most luxurious hotels, thelargest man-madeisland on the planet, The Palm,and even the world’s mostextensive natural fower garden. It captures the grandiosity of Las Vegas, whileretaining theexotica of the desert, in an oasis of indulgence whose Mission statement probablyreads, ‘Nothing is Impossible’. More than a bumper sticker tagline, it breathes lifeinto a‘king size’ kind of vibe;a pulse that throbs with electricitythatemboldens its skylineas much as itenchants thespectator. Trying to stitch togetheratwo-day itinerarythat does justiceto its bountyisa tallask, but this ofersasprinkling of some of the morecompelling fnds. COVER STORY T R AV EL I DEST I N AT ION I DU BA I LAYOVER AT Anantara World Islands Resort Located on its own island just four km into the Arabian Gulf, beach pool villas (above)arethe most preferred and deservetheir own fan page. DON’T MISS The Indian-Arabic restaurant Qamar, perfect for sunset dinners Palazzo Versace An escapist Eden with unfettered views of the Dubai creek, the hotel is steeped in classic Italian design, whereeach of the 215 roomsand suites bear testament to the famboyant Versace brand. This isas fashionableasa hotel can be. MOST LUXURIOUS STAY EXPERIENCE The Imperial Suite Jumeirah Zabeel Saray This isan immersiveindulgencefestooned with the majestic Ottoman-inspired themeand interiors. Theresort, located on the West Crescent of theiconic Palm Jumeirah brings hometheregalia with stunning,artworksand murals. SPICE RECOMMENDS The award-winning Talise Ottoman Spa here, one of the largest, most opulent spas in the world Kempinski Hotel Kempinski Hotel Mall of the Emirates, oferseasyaccess to world-class shopping, dining and entertainment. The 20 Aspen Chalets marrysand and snow. They ofer views of the Arabian Gulf on oneside and thesnowyslopes of Ski Dubai (left) on the other. USP Located in the heart of the city, it is a short distance from the city centre and directly connected to the Mall of the Emirates WHAT’S HAUTE If Dubai’s famed skyline is thrilling, so are the adventureand-aqua activities
THE PALATE PALETTE OKKU This multi-award winning luxury Japanese restaurant and lounge, reopened at Marriott Resort Palm Jumeirah in June this year. Innovation and creativity set OKKU’s contemporary Japanese fusion cuisine apart. MEAL FOR TWO AED 400-500 approx. NEAT BURGER Designed with the look and feel of a hip diner, overlooking the ice rink, the interiors are a merry mix of vibrant green and pink period interiors. The burgers here are outstanding, vegan with ingredients that speak for themselves. The nuggets and tater tots are just as delicious. WHERE Second Floor, Dubai Mall MEAL FOR TWO AED 150 approx. HOE LEE KOW Celebrity chef Reif Othman flls in the gap when it comes to Korean cuisine by launching this restaurant which showcases Korean cuisine as more than just BBQ. Think house gimbap, a gentle, deep-fried nori roll stufed with fresh tuna, and sprinkled with chives on either end, somewhat like a cannoli, though savoury and delicious served with trufe mayo. WHERE Dubai Hills, Business Park, Building-4 MEAL FOR TWO AED 425 approx. KASHKAN BY RANVEER BRAR Swanky environs aside, the food is outstanding at celebrity chef Ranveer Brar’s take on familiar Indian food that goes that extra mile. WHERE Mall – Level 1-Festival City MEAL FOR TWO AED 230 approx. ATRANGI Unique, is how restaurateur Ritu Dalmia uses her story telling to ofer an exciting repertoire of tastes and traditions from regional Indian communities. and households, championing regional spices, ancient grains, and super foods. WHERE Jumeirah Al Qasr MEAL FOR TWO AED 450 approx. —Rupali Dean SEEING IS BELIEVING TOP ATTRACTIONS Sky Views Dubai There’s nothing asexhilarating asenjoying a bird’seyeview. So when in Dubai, check out thelay of thecityfrom an elevated glass slide, bridge(Observatory) or tower-encircling ledge(Edge Walk) 219.5 metresaboveterra frma, located atop the Address Sky View Hotel. COST UPWARDS of AED 65; AED 504 (Edge Walk Experience) Love Lake Dubai Ifyou thought theemirate was onlyabout indulgenceand opulence, love plays centreforward at Love Lakein Al Qudra. Hereeverything—from sculptures of heartsand even trees manicured to spell out the word ‘love’ (when seen from a height)—is dedicated to love. Sunsets, we believe,arethereal treat. USP Set up barbecues in designated areas to enjoy more than 100 species of animals, flowers and plants. Cofee Museum An eccentric cofeelover’s paradisein Bur Dubai, the museum showcases thecofee bean’s journeyfrom around the world. What’s more, it is the frstever cofee museum concept in the Middle East. TICKET Free Deep Dive This recreational centre’s 60.02m-deep pool is certifed by Guinness World Recordsas the world’s deepest swimming pool for diving. Apart from the depth, the poolalso presents unparalleled underwateradditions such asa‘sunken city’ with itsabandoned urban streetscape. Get up
TOP ATTRACTIONS Top to bottom: Sky Views Dubai; Cofee Museum; Dubai Miracle Garden is the world’s largest natural flower garden; Ziplining across the Dubai Marina INDIA TODAY SPICE 13 SEPTEMBER 2023 closeand personal with this modern Atlantis-likeimmersivezonethat is shaped likean oyster. ON OFFER Year-round free diving and scuba-diving course; https://deepdivedubai.com/ XLine, Dubai Marina Flylike Superman (the harnessallowsyou to fy belly down)across the Dubai Marina on the world’s longest, steepest, fastest urban zipline measuring 1km in length, rising to a height of 170m and cruising at an averagespeed of 80km/h. Don’t worrythe GoPro cameras mounted on your helmet will help you relive everyexhilarating moment. COST Tickets start from AED499 Museum of the Future Designed asan asymmetric torus clad in steeland glass, this has become one of Dubai’s most recognisablelandmarks with its pride of place on Sheikh Zayed Road. Launched in Februarylastyear, the museum explores the possibilitiesand potential of societies of thefutureand theirevolution using scienceand technology. Theycall ita‘living museum’ becauseit incorporateselements of traditionalexhibitions, immersive theatreand themed attractions. COST AED149 www.museumofthefuture.ae COVER STORY T R AV EL I DEST I N AT ION I DU BA I
RETAIL THERAPY The Mall Route As malls go, Mall of the Emirates is as comprehensiveas they come with a ski slope, cinema complex, 560 shops and popup concepts. It also ofers premium services such as reserved and valet parking, hands-freeshopping desks, booking a personal stylist for one-on-onesessions and a digital concierge for instant messaging on new arrivals, limited-edition products, purchaseassistanceand deliveries. http://www.malloftheemirates.com/ The Dubai Mall is the world’s largest destination for shopping,entertainment and leisure, and sits right next to the world’s tallest building, the Burj Khalifa, ofering over 1,200 retail stores, and hundreds of food and beverage outlets, covering morethan 1 million sqm. This mall has grown even bigger now with theaddition of the Dubai Mall Zabeel, in 2019, which now includes a host of new lifestyleexperiences, dining options, retail options and 15,000 sq m of lifestyle space, all linked by a fully air-conditioned link bridgefrom Dubai Mall. https://thedubaimall.com/ Nakheel Mall is a premium lifestyle, retail, dining and entertainment destination located at the heart of Palm Jumeirah opened in late 2019 with morethan 300 outlets to help you splurge. Traditional shopping The Souks’ Allure No trip to dubai is complete without a visit to the world famous Gold Souk, located on the Deira side of the Dubai Creek. This is one of the oldest and most fascinating traditional markets, and the best part: All your purchases arecertifed genuine. If gold adds the glory, spices add the exotica. Samplethe Spice Souk for a colourful, aromatic and sensory journey, which isevery gourmand’s ultimate pride and joy. Alserkal Avenue Housed in what was oncean industrial areain thecentre of Dubai, Alserkal Avenue now comprises around 40 warehouses, converted into galleries, dancestudios, and artisanal cafes and more. https://alserkal.online/ Dubai Design District Cool,edgy, and featuring avant garde design, this is decidedly one of thecity’s coolest new neighbourhoods that ofer trendy shopping and art concepts in onestylish space. dubaidesigndistrict.com INDIA TODAY SPICE 14 SEPTEMBER 2023 COVER STORY T R AV EL I DEST I N AT ION I DU BA I
A ROAD TRIP AROUND LADAKH IN THE LAND ROVER DEFENDER IS A LUXURY THAT YOU CAN’T AFFORD TO MISS FREEWHEELING T R AV EL I M OTOR I NG INDIA TODAY SPICE 16 SEPTEMBER 2023 “So, which has been your most memorableexperienceso far?” Our hostasks, somewhat unexpectedly. It’sareasonable question,even ifa bit premature. We’re halfwaythrough an extended road trip that began from Srinagar in Kashmir, crossed over to Ladakh over the Zoji La(pass), wound along the Suru River through Kargil, beforeturning east toward Leh, thecapital city of thecountry’s newest Union Territory. On the fnal stretch we’vestopped for lunch at Alchi Cafe—arestaurant that’s been in the news for its innovativetake on traditional Ladakhi cuisine. “Thefood at this cafeisa highlight for sure,” I mumble. And I do mean it: Ladakhi cuisine hasa preponderance of grains prepared in gruels accompanied by bread. Functional food,and a bit ofan acquired taste. Alchi Cafe’s fusion of thelocal bread with a meat flling on the other hand, is downright succulent. Myfellow travellers shoot furtive glancesand shufein their seats,aware,acutely that they need to come up with aresponse before By MERAJ SHAH
POWER HORSE The Pan America Special is the real deal, capable of tackling any terrain you throw at it.
thesame question fnds its wayto them. Asasequence of platitudesensues, I givethe question moreroom to settle. For thelife of me, I can’t single out one specifc instance. Our myriad experiences on this trip—culinary, motoring, cultural,adventure—haveall been clubbed under, for lack ofa better word, luxury. Not just in thesense of how well appointed the hotels have been, or how insular the bubblethat our ride—the Land Rover Defender—hasensconced us in, but in a moreexpansive, less literal sense. This trip—part ofaseries ofexperiences run by Cougar Motorsport in partnership with Land Rover India—has been luxurious in how it’s freed us, the participants, from any burden of choice, worry, or responsibility. Let meexplain: while weare piloting our own ships—the Defender can’t driveitself (although given what it can do, I wouldn’t besurprised if it did)—but our mostexpert inputsarelimited to pushing theappropriateterrain button on thetouchscreen displayand letting thevehicle do its thing. Thereyou are, cocooned in leatherand insulated from thesounds of the world, delicateetudes emanating from the Meridian speakers, admiring thespectacular beauty of Ladakh’s landscapefrom the big windows as it whizzes byin a blur. Our convoyis not stopped at checkpoints becausea pilot car has been facilitating our passage before wereach them. Our hotelsarethe best money can buyin each location; heck even our impromptu picnics have degustation menus prepared bysome of theregion’s fnest caterers. This isatamer version of the kind of trip in which Sherpas haul you up to thesummit whileyou feast on foie grasalong the way;you get the drift. Sniggerallyou want; thecharm of that kind of decadence, I can tellyou frst hand, is undeniable. Our itineraryis notextreme byany standards. With theexception of some of the high passesand thealtitude, the drive—Srinagar-Kargil-Leh-Nubra Valley-Pangong Lake—presentsa picturesquesmorgasbord ofall the diverse topography of theregion. From the lakes in Srinagar, the‘bugyals,’ (meadows) of Sonamarg, therocky outcrop of Kargiland fnallythelarger-than-life multi-layered mountainsand river valleys of Ladakh, theview changesevery hour on theroad. TUTC CHAMBA CAMPS The twin glamping ‘travelling camps’ in Thiksey, Leh and Diskit, Nubra, have a colonial feel and excellent service FREEWHEELING T R AV EL I M OTOR I NG INDIA TODAY SPICE 18 SEPTEMBER 2023
INDIA TODAY SPICE 19 SEPTEMBER 2023 In fact, it often takesaview outside to locate ourselves in thespecifc milieu within which we’re driving through. The Defender makes such short work of theterrain that what had felt likea backbreaking quest on previous trips feels occasionally bumpyat worst. If our pad in Srinagar—the Taj Vivanta—nestled right under the Zabarwan mountains has the best seats in the houseabovethe Dal Lake, the TUTC Chambacamp in Leh, is within the grounds of theimposing Thiksey monasterythat dominates theskyline. A troupe of folk dancers put on ashow in theevening, which, onceyou’ve overcometheembarrassment of feeling like atrue-bluetourist, is ratherentertaining,especially when the guests get into theact themselves. Glamping. And how. InDiskit, 50 odd kilometres from the K-Pass, Bactrian camels rovethesands. Welet the poor beasts beand head, instead to our second luxurytented retreat to park ourselves on canesofas and quaf warm brews. Thetiming is perfect; thelast day of August 2023, and the moon seems frighteningly close. Weconvergearound acampfre and spend the night gazing at crystalline stars, lulled bythe din of frogs. The drivefrom Diskit to Pangong viathe Shyok River Valleyis rawer,and less traversed. We drivethrough the THE CRIB SRINAGAR TAJ VIVANTA Nestled in the shadow of the Zabarwan mountains with sweeping views of the Dal Lake, the Taj Vivanta occupies a place all its own in Srinagar. Peerless. Tarif: Best Available Rate | Packages start @ `33,000 per night Contact +91 194-2461111 Email:bookvivanta.srinagar@ tajhotels.com LEH | NUBRA VALLEY TUTC CHAMBA CAMPS Period-luxury meets glamping at the TUTC Chamba camps replete with canvas, leather and rattan furniture, butler on call and fine dining. There’s a distinct ‘Days of the Raj,’ ambience at the camp, presumably to cater to a British and European clientele. Tarif `45000—55000 (per twoperson tent, inclusive of all meals) Contact +901 80109 02222 Email:[email protected] PANGONG LAKE THE MERAK Eco-friendly huts with unfettered views of the Lake on one side and snow-capped peaks on the other the Merak exemplifies simplicity and environment-friendly construction. The Huts’ construction incorporates a material that captures heat during the day that keeps the dwellings warm and cosy at night. Tarif `8000 - 16,000 per night (cottage) Contact +91 98607 55878
INDIA TODAY SPICE 20 SEPTEMBER 2023 arid cold-desertecosystem;all of it unavoidably gorgeous. Thesheer scope of thelandscape—hills shaped likelunar pyramids, others resemblevast rolling rivers of rock—is overwhelming in this valley. We go past craters, stone-stacks, riversidelakes, sand dunes,enormous clifs, gorgesand passes; crossed gurgling creeks, swerveto avoid herds of dzos, pashminasheep and even the occasional roving Tibetan wolf;and laugh at thelimericks which the Border Roads Organisation inficts on travellerseveryfew kilometres. Pangong fnallyemerges through the dust cloud just beforesundown. Thelakeitself,all theeyesores—scooters, motorcycles,and thelike—notwithstanding, isasight to behold. Theshades of blue on this water body presenta kaleidoscope which no cameracan capablycapture. At The Merak,a gorgeous collection ofeco-friendlycottagesat thevillage of the same name, welay our hats for the nightand contemplate theinevitablereturn to thelives we’veleft behind. The next dayit’s back to Leh and then a hop skip and fight back to our urban existences. As isalways thecase with atrip to Ladakh, I spend thelast evening jousting with existential questions. Standing in front of gigantic mountains, flled with awein front ofall thatyou do not know, isasurefre wayto glean aclearer sense of who you are,and whatyour placeis in theever-expanding universe. That’s when it begins to dawn on me—theappeal ofa vehiclelikethe Defenderand an experiencelikethis. It’s not about theextremefeats thevehicle may becapable ofand it’s certainly notabout making you jump through hoops, it’s about freerange. And theease with which you can claim it. Thecontrived glamorisation of struggleis hard to overcome. Aren’t thechallenges central to thesearch; what quest is ripe without its share of travails? But then, likeall childish thoughts, I cast this oneaside,and ring for the butler. I’m sure they havesome gruyerein the pantry. THE RIDE Land Rover Defender 110 SE The Land Rover Defender comes in various guises, sizes and engine configurations. We drove the two-litre turbocharged petrol 110SE that sits in the middle of the range. The Defender in general is not an of-roader as much as it is a luxury vehicle that makes short work of any kind of terrain it’s driven in. It’s not meant for enthusiasts who relish the challenges of driving in inclement terrain. It’s meant to take occupants through any kind of terrain with minimum fuss and involvement. FREEWHEELING T R AV EL I M OTOR I NG ENGINE 1997 cc, petrol POWER 300 bhp TORQUE 400 Nm@ 1500-4000rpm TRANSMISSION 8-speed torque converter auto PRICE ` 93.55 lakh to 1.22 crore (ex showroom)
DEST I N AT ION I SPI R I T TASTINGAND TOASTINGINTHE CRADLEOFWINE Whether you’re an oenophile, aspiring sommelier orjust a traveller who trips on tippling tales, a wine trail in picturesque Kakheti is sine qua non to an immersive Georgia itinerary. By SHIKHA SHAH
INDIA TODAY SPICE 23 SEPTEMBER 2023 ipping wine in Georgia is similar to enjoying velvety gelato in Italy or gorging on sinuous sushi in Japan. For a tiny Caucasian nation, Georgia has an immensely rich winemaking tradition, dating back 8,000 years. Archaeological evidence reveals that Georgians were the frst to discover that grape juice could be turned into wine by burying pressed, whole grapes, with their skin, stem and pips, in an egg-shaped clay pot called qvevri and leaving it to ferment for fve to six months. This unique, traditional Georgian wine-making techniqueis UNESCO listed for its cultural value and passed down through generations. Hence, Georgian families and communities produce their own wine which often fows liberally, in elegant glassware, over an endless stream of toasts by the tamada (toastmaster) at a supra (celebration or feast), whatever the occasion. Vino is so indispensable to Georgian identity and sense of pridethat winecellarsareconsidered holy places, wine-drinking paraphernalia have been found at ruins and burial sites, and home gardens are adorned with grape-vine wrapped trellises. Expect to see wine and vines as carvings on tombs; on artwork and sculptures depicting thelocal way of lifeand in theform of local staples like churchkhela (walnut candy made from grape juice), and chacha (a strong liquor made from grape pomace). From grape to glass on the Kakheti Wine Route Synonymous with rolling vineyards, Kakheti, the eastern enclave of Georgia, cultivates around 70 per cent of the country’s grape harvest. Spending time in its fairytale towns comes with learning to pronounce some tongue-twisting grape varieties such as Saperavi, Rkatsiteli and Mtsvane, meeting the winemakers at maranis (tiny, family-owned winecellars), savouring winealong with the hearty local cuisine and more. Rule of thumb: You must say“Gaumarjos!”everytimeyou raiseyour glass. Word to the wise Ditch the widely-promoted Kakheti day trip from Tbilisi, instead, set aside three full days for meaningful exploration. These are some of the must-dos on the Kakheti Wine Route,ascenic sign-posted circuit. WINE TRAILS Lush vineyards of Tsinandali (Above); Sighnaghi is also known as the “City of Love” (Above right); Tsinandali Estate ofers a tasting of its signature wines (Left); The atmospheric cellar at Tsinandali Estate (Below left) S