1 FINE JEWELS AND SILVER 15 16 OCTOBER 2024 ONLINE
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CONTENTS 7 SALES AND ENQUIRIES 9 THE AUCTION CATALOGUE 134 FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS 139 CONDITIONS FOR SALE 147 ABSENTEE/PROXY BID FORM 149 CLOSING SCHEDULE 150 DIAMOND GUIDE 151 RING SIZES 154 INDEX Front cover Lot 53 Inside front cover Lot 89 and 90 Back cover Lot 61 Inside back cover Lot 130 and 131 Facing page Lot 32
6 OUR TEAM DINESH VAZIRANI CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER AND CO‒FOUNDER MINAL VAZIRANI PRESIDENT AND CO‒FOUNDER ABHA HOUSEGO SENIOR VICE PRESIDENT INTERNATIONAL, LONDON ANU NANAVATI SENIOR VICE PRESIDENT INTERNATIONAL, NEW YORK CLIENT RELATIONS AASHISH DUBEY SENIOR MANAGER CLIENT RELATIONS DHANASHREE WAIKAR ASSOCIATE VICE PRESIDENT CLIENT RELATIONS SHAHEEN VIRANI ASSOCIATE VICE PRESIDENT CLIENT RELATIONS DEEPIKA SHAH SENIOR MANAGER CLIENT RELATIONS AMIT KAPOOR ASSOCIATE VICE PRESIDENT JEWELLERY ALKA SAMANT VICE PRESIDENT DESIGN DESIGN JATIN LAD SENIOR DESIGNER MAIA JASUBHOY SENIOR MANAGER CLIENT RELATIONS, LONDON VINAY BHATE VICE PRESIDENT FINANCE YASH GADHIYA HEAD OF TECHNOLOGY AND PRODUCT MANU CHANDRA HEAD OF OPERATIONS OPERATIONS AND FINANCE EDITORIAL NICOLE NEWBY SENIOR EDITORIAL MANAGER AKANKSHA SINGH EDITORIAL ASSISTANT CHANDRA POOJARI SENIOR MANAGER LOGISTICS NARSINGRAO CHIEF TECHNICAL ARCHITECT ANJALI GHATGE MANAGER FINANCE PUNYA NAGPAL SENIOR VICE PRESIDENT
7 All bidding will take place at saffronart.com. All lots are published in the printed catalogue and e‒catalogue and may also be viewed on the website. Select lots may be viewed in New Delhi and Mumbai by appointment. AUCTION DATES Start: Tuesday, 15 October 2024, 9 am Indian Standard Time (11.30 pm US Eastern Time on 14 October 2024 and 4.30 am UK Time on 15 October 2024) Close: Wednesday, 16 October 2024, 8 pm Indian Standard Time onwards (10.30 am US Eastern Time and 3.30 pm UK Time on 16 October 2024) Please note that bidding closes at different times according to Lot Groups. These times have been listed in the Bid Closing Schedule. VIEWINGS NEW DELHI 25 – 30 September 2024 11 am – 7 pm, Monday to Saturday 11 am – 4 pm, Sunday VENUE The Oberoi Dr Zakir Hussain Marg New Delhi 110003 SALES TEAM AND AUCTION ENQUIRIES Mumbai Contact: Punya Nagpal, Dhanashree Waikar, Shaheen Virani, Aashish Dubey, Deepika Shah and Chandana Suresh Email: [email protected] | Tel: +91 22 6855 4155 New Delhi Contact: Amit Kapoor | Email: [email protected] | Tel: +91 11 24369415 USA Contact: Anu Nanavati and Anaya Engineer | Email: [email protected] | Tel: +1 212 627 5006 UK Contact: Abha Housego or Maia Jasubhoy | Email: [email protected] | Tel: +44 20 7409 7974 ADDRESSES India Mumbai: Industry Manor, Ground Floor, Appasaheb Marathe Marg, Prabhadevi, Mumbai 400025 New Delhi: The Oberoi, Dr. Zakir Hussain Marg, New Delhi 110003 USA The Fuller Building, 595 Madison Avenue, Suite 1207, New York, NY 10022 UK 73 New Bond Street, 1st Floor, London, W1S 1RS MUMBAI 4 – 16 October 2024 11 am – 7 pm, Monday to Saturday Sunday (by appointment only) VENUE Industry Manor, Ground Floor Appasaheb Marathe Marg, Prabhadevi, Mumbai 400025
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9 Lots 1–20 Closing Time: Wednesday, 16 October 2024 8 pm (IST) 10.30 am (US Eastern Time)
10 1 GEMSET RING An oval‒shaped ring centring on a ruby cabochon and a surround of polki diamonds with a further surround of spinel cabochons and beads to a shank with milgrain motifs, mounted in gold. Gross weight: 23.44 grams Circa 1940s Rs 2,00,000 ‒ 3,00,000 $2,410 ‒ 3,615 Ring size: American 8, English Q 2 GEMSET RING A dome‒shaped ring centring on polki diamonds followed by three layers of intricate milgrain designs flanked by two foil‒backed cabochons in floral motif, mounted in gold. Gross weight: 25.5 grams Circa 1940s Rs 2,00,000 ‒ 3,00,000 $2,410 ‒ 3,615 Ring size: American 9, English S 3 PAIR OF PERIOD GEMSET EARRINGS Of a flower‒head style, each earring is centred on a foil‒backed diamond polki with a two‒layer surround of ruby cabochons and polki diamonds in petal motifs, and pearls around the circumference, mounted in silver and gold. Gross weight: 30.15 gramss Diameter: 3.2 cm Rs 3,00,000 ‒ 4,00,000 $3,615 ‒ 4,820
11 4 PAIR OF PERIOD CRYSTAL AND PEARL EARRINGS Each double‒sided earring is designed as a flower‒head with rock crystal and a fringe of seed pearls, suspending a similarly set floral motif, further suspending to a terminal shaped like a fish, set with a fringe of seed pearls. Attached to a kanauti or ear support to wrap around the ear for support, mounted in gold. Gross weight: 144.60 grams Length of earrings: 24.5 cm Rs 13,00,000 ‒ 15,00,000 $15,665 ‒ 18,075
12 5 PAIR OF PERIOD GEMSET ‘KARANPHOOL JHUMKIS’ OR EARRINGS Designed as a flower‒head set with diamond polkis suspending a jhumka similarly set with diamonds and rubies further suspending a fringe of pearls, emeralds and turquoises and a gold leaf, mounted in gold. Reverse is enamelled in red and green in floral motifs. Gross weight: 48.68 grams Length of earrings: 8.5 cm Rs 5,00,000 ‒ 7,00,000 $6,025 ‒ 8,435 6 PERIOD DIAMOND BRACELET Flexible gold bracelet with bezel‒set rose‒cut diamonds, to a similarly set clasp, mounted in gold. Gross weight: 74.52 grams Length of bracelet: 21 cm Circa 1940s Rs 12,00,000 ‒ 15,00,000 $14,460 ‒ 18,075
13 7 ‘SATLADA’ OR SEVEN‒ STRAND GEMSET NECKLACE A gently graduated seven‒strand pearl necklace with rubies and emeralds and seven similarly graduating central pendants set with polki diamonds and emeralds with a fringe of seed pearls interspaced by fringe of polki diamonds. Culminating to triangular plaques on each side, set with rose‒cut diamonds and ruby cabochons, joined by a silk cord, to a seed pearl tassel. Gross weight: 127.90 grams Rs 12,00,000 ‒ 15,00,000 $14,460 ‒ 18,075
14 Maharani Swaroop Kunwarba of Bansda, photographed at a studio in Bombay in 1890.
15 Maharani Swaroop Kunwarba of Bansda, circa 1890, photographed with her two sons, Pravinsinhji and Natwarsinhji. This photograph is particularly rare, as it was uncommon for women to be photographed during this period.
16 Maharani Swaroop Kunwarba of Bansda is wearing the sari and earrings from the present lot. Brocade is woven with silk or gold and silver threads and is known for its rich design. The Maharani’s sari is a lush purple with a gold border and pallu, and embellished with many decorative floral designs and geometric patterns like khanjiri (chevron) that are typical of brocades.
17 8 PAIR OF PERIOD GEMSET EARRINGS A traditional circular earring with a dome shape set with rubies, polki diamonds, emeralds and pearls with alternate surround of ruby cabochons in floral motif and pearls flanked by a similarly set floral motif on one side suspending two graduating jhumkas, to a fringe of seed pearls. Gross weight: 150.6 grams Length of earring: 8 cm Rs 35,00,000 ‒ 45,00,000 $42,170 ‒ 54,220 NON‒EXPORTABLE Accompanied by a silk saree worn by the Maharani in the photograph.
18 A necklace, similar to the present lot, belonging to an important family from Northeastern India. Sold at Saffronart, Auction of Fine Jewels and Watches, 30‒31 October 2012, Lot 84
19 9 PERIOD DIAMOND ‘POLKI’ AND EMERALD NECKLACE Designed with openwork plaques in floral motifs set with polki diamonds, suspending a similarly set pendant with an emerald drop. The reverse is enamelled in floral and bird motifs with red, green, yellow, blue and white, mounted in gold. Gross weight: 119.27 grams Rs 20,00,000 ‒ 25,00,000 $24,100 ‒ 30,125
20 10 PERIOD RUBY AND DIAMOND PENDANT Designed as two mirroring paisley motifs mounted in gold with two mirroring birds atop set with rubies, diamonds and emeralds with a gold chain. Gross weight: 51.81 grams Rs 7,00,000 ‒ 9,00,000 $8,435 ‒ 10,845 11 PAIR OF GEMSET ‘KADA’ OR BANGLES Each in a floral design on a green enamel ground set with rock crystal, the inner edges with a floral design in red and green enamel on a white ground Gross weight: 151.67 grams Inner diameter: 5.5 cm Rs 12,00,000 ‒ 15,00,000 $14,460 ‒ 18,075
21 12 PERIOD GEMSET NECKLACE A flexible necklace with a line of serrated round motifs set with foil‒backed rubies and green beryl cabochons suspending a similarly set circular unit in floral motifs. On the reverse is a repoussé of peacock motif, mounted in silver. Gross weight: 92.04 grams Rs 7,00,000 ‒ 9,00,000 $8,435 ‒ 10,845
22 The jada or jada bilau is a popular traditional adornment worn by South Indian brides. It has also historically been worn as an ornamental accessory by Bharatanatyam dancers. The main section of the ornament typically consists of several flexible, jewelled segments, tied to a braid or plait, allowing movement as it sways with the wearer. The head of the present lot represents a cobra’s hood, a common motif in such ornaments. In Indian jewellery and traditional visual arts, the cobra symbolises Shiva, reflecting the wearer’s devotion to the deity, while also representing protection and fertility. This hair ornament is set with cabochon rubies, evoking the traditional bridal colour of red, and terminates in a kuchcham or kunjalam—a three‒part tassel of pearls and rubies. A gold jadanagam hair ornament from Tamil Nadu, late 19th century. Reproduced from Bernadette Van Gelder, “Gold ‒ The Golden Smile of India”, Traditional Indian Jewellery: The Golden Smile of India, United Kingdom: ACC Art Books, 2010
23 13 IMPORTANT PERIOD RUBY AND PEARL ‘JADA’ OR HAIR ORNAMENT A jada, choti or braid ornament, intended to be attached to a braid, designed as flexible, tapered plaques, set with ruby cabochons and a seed pearl border, the reverse is lined with a silk cloth, and suspending three tassels, each with a bunch of pearls and rubies. Gross weight: 257.9 grams Length: 47 cm Rs 34,00,000 ‒ 40,00,000 $40,965 ‒ 48,195
24 14 PERIOD DIAMOND AND EMERALD NECKLACE Designed as a stylised flower‒head set with polki diamonds suspending an emerald drop and seed pearls to a gold chain. On the reverse is floral enamelling in white and blue on green ground, mounted in gold. Gross weight: 33.21 grams Rs 4,50,000 ‒ 5,50,000 $5,425 ‒ 6,630 15 PAIR OF EMERALD, DIAMOND ‘POLKI’ AND PEARL FISH EARRINGS Each designed as a fish motif set with polki diamonds suspending from a similarly set floral motif with a fringe of pearls and emeralds, mounted in gold. The reverse is enamelled in a fish motif with red, green, white and blue. Gross weight: 30.54 grams Length of earrings: 7 cm Rs 7,50,000 ‒ 9,50,000 $9,040 ‒ 11,450
25 16 EMERALD NECKLACE Designed centring an openwork floral pendant set with table‒cut emeralds, suspending an emerald drop, to a series of gold plaques set with emerald cabochons in a floral motif to a three‒strand chain, mounted in gold. Gross weight: 103.3 grams Rs 9,00,000 ‒ 12,00,000 $10,845 ‒ 14,460
26 The present lot showcases a blend of Mughal and Deccani design elements, evident in its use of two metals, and draws inspiration from the makarakanthi necklaces of South India. This reversible necklace features polki diamonds set in silver on one side and spinels set in gold on the other. The lotus, a symbol of purity and rebirth in both Hinduism and Buddhism, is a recurring motif in Indian jewellery. It is often associated with deities like Lakshmi and Saraswati, who are depicted standing or seated on lotus pedestals, while the lotus emerging from Vishnu’s navel serves as the seat of Brahma, the creator. Similar necklaces have been worn by Hyderabadi nobility and are part of the collection held by the Jewellery Trust of Nizam Mir Osman Ali Khan, the last Nizam of Hyderabad.
27 17 PERIOD GEMSET NECKLACE A reversible necklace with a circular pendant in floral motif flanked by two peacocks suspending spinels, to a chain set with lotus motifs separated by pearls suspending spinels. One side is set with spinels and the other side with polki diamonds, mounted in gold and silver. Gross weight: 257.04 grams Rs 31,00,000 ‒ 35,00,000 $37,350 ‒ 42,170
28 19 PAIR OF DIAMOND EARRINGS Designed as a flower motif centring a rose‒cut diamond with a pavé‒set surround of full‒cut diamonds suspending a similarly set pear‒shaped petal motif, mounted in gold. On the reverse is an intricate filigree, mounted in 22K gold. Diamond (rose‒cut): 6.27 carats Diamond: 1.52 carats Gross weight: 11.30 grams Length of earrings: 3.3 cm Rs 12,00,000 ‒ 15,00,000 $14,460 ‒ 18,075 18 PAIR OF GEMSET EARRINGS Each designed as a lotus flower, centring on a rose‒cut diamond, with ruby and sapphire petals and emerald‒set petiole culminating in a rose‒cut diamond‒set leaf, mounted in gold. The reverse is engraved with a foliate motif. Gross weight: 17.02 grams Dimensions: 2.5 cm Rs 3,20,000 ‒ 5,20,000 $3,860 ‒ 6,270
29 20 EMERALD, RUBY AND DIAMOND NECKLACE Designed as a flexible row of gently graduating emerald, ruby and diamond beads with a diamond‒set clasp, mounted in 18K gold. Emerald: 179.21 carats Ruby: 39.99 carats Diamond (beads): 12.99 carats Gross weight: 52.63 grams Rs 18,00,000 ‒ 22,00,000 $21,690 ‒ 26,510
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31 Lots 21–34 Closing Time: Wednesday, 16 October 2024 8.15 pm (IST) 10.45 am (US Eastern Time)
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33 21 PAIR OF PERIOD GEMSET ‘MAKARA’‒HEAD ‘KADAS’ OR BANGLES A pair of bangles with red enamel on the outer edge set with diamond polki in floral motifs, white enamel on the inner edge, leading to two crocodile‒ heads or makara terminals each set with ruby tongue, on green enamel background, mounted in gold. Gross weight: 230.53 grams Inner diameter: 6 cm Rs 16,00,000 ‒ 20,00,000 $19,280 ‒ 24,100 NON‒EXPORTABLE Bangles ending in animal heads have long been popular in both North and South Indian jewellery. The present lot features two bejewelled makara heads, a common motif in such designs. These heads are kundan‒set with rubies and diamonds on a green enamel base, with white enamel on the reverse. The makara, a mythical creature, appears in various cultures and is typically depicted in Hindu mythology as part‒terrestrial animal—like a crocodile, elephant, or deer—and part‒aquatic. The Hindu god Vishnu is sometimes shown wearing makara‒shaped earrings (makarakundalas), and makara sculptures often guard temple entrances. A similar pair of enamelled bangles with makara terminals was presented to Queen Victoria after the Colonial and Indian Exhibition in 1886. This design later inspired European jewellers like Van Cleef & Arpels, who incorporated these forms into their creations in the early 20th century. PROVENANCE Sotheby’s Art of Islamic World and India, June 2020, lot 201 Previously property of an Indian Maharani Private collection, UK (since 1970s)
34 PROVENANCE Sotheby’s Arts of Islamic World, October 2019, lot 263 Property of a European family, Gifted by Asaf Jha VI Mir Mehboob Ali Khan Siddiqi, Sixth Nizam of Hyderabad
35 22 AN IMPORTANT PERIOD EMERALD AND DIAMOND ‘POLKI’ NECKLACE Designed with an openwork flower motif set with emerald cabochons and polki diamonds, suspending a similarly set pendant with a pearl drop. The reverse is enamelled in floral motifs with red, green, yellow, blue and white, mounted in gold. Gross weight: 229 grams Rs 55,00,000 ‒ 75,00,000 $66,270 ‒ 90,365 NON‒EXPORTABLE
36 23 GEMSET PENDANT A pendant designed in floral motif centring on an open back polki diamond with a surround of ruby and emerald cabochons and a further surround of table‒cut diamonds, surround of the pendant is engraved in floral motif, suspending an emerald drop to a gold chain, mounted in gold. Gross weight: 44.90 grams Rs 9,00,000 ‒ 12,00,000 $10,845 ‒ 14,460 24 PAIR OF PERIOD GEMSET EARRINGS Each designed as a flower‒head, centring on a diamond polki, with a surround of full‒cut spinels and triangle‒shaped emeralds, terminating in graduating fish‒ shaped pendants suspending spinels and a fringe of seed pearls, mounted in gold. The reverse is engraved with floral motifs. Gross weight: 62.76 grams Length of earrings: 9.5 cm Circa 1940s Rs 7,00,000 ‒ 9,00,000 $8,435 ‒ 10,845
37 25 PERIOD DIAMOND ‘POLKI’ CHOKER Designed as flexible rows of gold plaques in floral motif, kundan‒set with table‒cut polki diamonds, suspending a fringe of pearls and kundan‒set diamond polki; the reverse with pink and green enamel in foliate designs, mounted in gold. Diamond (polkis): 24 carats (estimated) Gross weight: 139.27 grams Length of necklace: 22 cm Circa 1930 Lucknow Rs 18,00,000 ‒ 22,00,000 $21,690 ‒ 26,510 Gulabi meenakari is an enamelling technique that originated in Benaras during the 17th century when it was part of the Kingdom of Oudh. Its distinctive pink enamel is created by finely grinding red enamel with rose oil (ittar) and applying it onto a white base. The piece is then fired in a kiln to fuse the enamel to the white surface. Before this stage, the artisan would engrave the sections to be filled with enamel and then apply it in multiple layers, firing it each time, to achieve a smooth gradation. Precision tools and fine‒tipped brushes are essential to fill the intricate details typical of such work. As seen in the present lot, pink flowers like lotuses painted on the reverse of a jewelled ornament are the most popular motifs associated with this style.
38 The hasli takes its name from hansuli, the Hindi word for the collarbone on which this neckpiece rests. Variations of the hasli are found throughout North India, typically conical or cylindrical in shape. Lot 26 presents a unique interpretation of the traditional hasli, adorned with intricate decorations including emerald cabochons, diamond polki, seed pearls and detailed enamelling. Jewellery scholar Oppi Untracht has noted that such pieces were traditionally worn by the wives of wealthy landowners and merchants as a symbol of their power and status in society.
39 26 A GEMSET ‘HASLI’ NECKLACE A hinged hasli or collar necklace set with emerald cabochons and diamond polkis on green enamel ground, suspending a fringe of seed pearls and emeralds, centring a floral pendant set with polki diamonds, and an emerald cabochon, culminating in an emerald drop, mounted in gold. On the reverse is floral enamel in white and black on red ground. Gross weight: 143 grams Rs 15,00,000 ‒ 18,00,000 $18,075 ‒ 21,690
40 27 PERIOD GEMSET ‘MAKARA KADA‘ OR BANGLE A period gold bangle featuring fine enamel in bird motifs and diamond polkis on the outer edge and red, green, blue and white enamel in floral motifs on the inside edge, terminating in two makara or crocodile‒head terminals, mounted in gold. Gross weight: 89.01 grams Inner Diameter: 5.8 cm Rs 8,00,000 ‒ 12,00,000 $9,640 ‒ 14,460 28 PAIR OF EMERALD, PEARL AND DIAMOND BRACELETS Each set with emerald cabochons in recurring flower‒ head design, flanked by a row of pearls on the border, with silk cords, mounted in gold. On the reverse is red, green floral enamel on white ground. Gross weight: 89.72 grams Length: 19 cm Rs 8,50,000 ‒ 10,50,000 $10,245 ‒ 12,655
41 29 PERIOD GEMSET NECKLACE A necklace set with rectangular plaques of floral motifs set with polki diamonds boarded by rose‒ cut diamonds on the upper edge, the lower edge suspends a row of alternating pearls and emeralds further suspending a similarly set plaque to a fringe of seed pearls. The reverse is enamelled in red, green and blue enamel in floral and bird motif on gold ground. Diamond: 25 carats (estimated) Emerald: 26 carats (estimated) Gross weight: 175.12 grams Circa 1940s Rs 30,00,000 ‒ 40,00,000 $36,145 ‒ 48,195
42 Anklets have long been eulogised in Indian culture, with the works of Kalidasa praising the appeal of a woman wearing anklets. It is an important part of solah shringar, the Hindu ritual of bridal preparation without which the woman is considered to not be fully dressed for company. It is used as protection from the evil eye for newborns in parts of the country. This present lot is a type of anklet called paizeb where a series of connected individual units suspend a fringe, in this case of polki diamonds. Diamonds are a part of the Panchratna—the five most significant stones in Hinduism—that are renowned for their hardness and worn to ward off danger. The paizeb is also mounted in gold which would be an unusual material for an anklet since tradition dictated that only the very rich wore gold or bejewelled anklets in India.
43 30 MAGNIFICENT PAIR OF PERIOD DIAMOND ‘POLKI PAIZEB’ OR ANKLETS Each comprising kundan‒set table‒cut polki diamonds, bordered by enamelled beads on the upper edge, suspending a fringe of table‒cut polki diamonds with a surround of green enamel; the reverse bearing foliate designs in red, green and blue on white enamel ground, mounted in gold. Gross weight: 306.20 grams Rs 40,00,000 ‒ 45,00,000 $48,195 ‒ 54,220
44 31 PAIR OF PERIOD GEMSET BRACELETS Each centring on a circular rose‒cut diamond with a surround of openwork floral motifs set with rose‒ cut diamonds to five similarly set plaques on either side culminating in a clasp. The reverse is enamelled in pink, white and green on gold ground with floral motifs, mounted in gold. Gross weight: 158.79 grams Rs 18,00,000 ‒ 22,00,000 $21,690 ‒ 26,510
45 32 A REGAL PEARL, DIAMOND AND RUBY PERIOD ‘PANCHLADA’ NECKLACE A necklace, designed as five strands of natural pearls, interspersed with rubies and emeralds, each suspending a central openwork pendant of floral design, kundan‒set with centring ruby cabochons, table‒cut polki diamonds, with emerald terminals, and further fringes of similarly set polki diamonds, the reverse of each pendant with a foliate design on a green ground, joined by two polki diamond, ruby and emerald cabochon–set links in a floral motif to a seed pearl tassel, mounted in gold Gross weight: 187.30 grams Circa 1930s Rs 15,50,000 ‒ 18,50,000 $18,675 ‒ 22,290
46 33 PAIR OF PERIOD EMERALD, PEARL AND ‘POLKI’ DIAMOND EARRINGS Each centring on a table‒cut diamond polki with a surround of blue enamel in floral motif suspending a pearl drop, followed by a dome‒shaped emerald carved in floral motifs, mounted in gold. Emerald: 41.93 carats (estimated) Pearl: 6.89 carats (estimated) Diamond: 0.80 carats (estimated) Gross weight: 14.67 grams Length of earrings: 4.7 cm Circa 1930s Rs 16,00,000 ‒ 19,00,000 $19,280 ‒ 22,895
47 34 COLOMBIAN EMERALD, PEARL AND DIAMOND ‘JUGNU’ NECKLACE Centring a circular emerald in an open back setting, with a surround of red and green enamel in floral motif on white ground with a surmount of table‒ cut diamonds in a similar motif and suspending an emerald drop. The pendant suspends a graduating line of pearls and melon‒shaped emeralds, mounted in gold. The reverse is enamelled in red, white and green floral motif. Gross weight: 37.90 grams Rs 23,00,000 ‒ 28,00,000 $27,715 ‒ 33,735 With report number 24073243 dated 2 August 2024 from Gubelin Gem Labs, stating two randomly selected emeralds beads and circular modified brilliant emerald, from necklace weighing 37.85 grams, are natural from Colombia with minor clarity enhancement.
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49 Lots 35–60 Closing Time: Wednesday, 16 October 2024 8.30 pm (IST) 11 am (US Eastern Time)
50 35 PAIR OF IMPRESSIVE BURMESE RUBY AND DIAMOND EARRINGS Centring on a square‒shaped diamond suspending diamond baguettes to a series of stylised lotus motifs set with variously shaped diamonds further suspending similarly set arch culminating in ruby drops, mounted in 18K gold. Ruby: 47.64 carats Diamond: 14.74 carats Gross weight: 36.16 grams Length of earring: 9 cm Rs 85,00,000 ‒ 1,20,00,000 $102,410 ‒ 144,580 With report number ORG‒24100214‒003 dated 29 July 2024 from Gemmological Institute of India, stating two randomly selected rubies, from earrings weighing 36.15 grams, are natural from Burma with no indications of heat. Rubies have long been cherished by royalty for their associations with power and majesty. European royalty often included the gem in their attire, especially coronation regalia. Indians associate rubies with the sun god Surya and include rubies in the navratna, a series of nine gems which when worn together are believed to protect the wearer from evil. Belonging to the corundum family, rubies earn their fiery red colour from the presence of chromium. Although they derive their name from the Latin ruber, meaning red, they vary in colour, and are assigned value accordingly. Fine jewellery specialist Joanna Hardy explains, “To be considered a ‘ruby,’ a corundum must have a color between orangey‒red and slightly purplish‒red, with the most desirable shade being a pure, vibrant red. Very few corundum specimens naturally possess both the required color range and the clarity needed to create a faceted stone” (Joanna Hardy, “The Timeless Geology of Ruby,” Ruby: The King of Gems, London: Violette Limited and Gemfields PLC, 2017, p. 319). Burmese rubies are among the rarest gemstones in the market. Discovered over 2,000 years ago, they originate from the Mogok Valley in Upper Myanmar in mines located in densely forested hills that are difficult to access, their challenging geography compounded by political instability in the area. The British annexed the region in the 19th century, and as demand for Burmese rubies surged, they made arduous, weeks‒long journeys to mine the gems themselves. The gems in lot 37 are a fine example of the vivid “pigeon’s blood red” hue that makes Burmese rubies so highly prized by collectors. The presence of chromium lends these particular jewels a strong fluorescence, giving them a unique glow. The colour of the ruby beads in lot 36, a magnificent necklace, is also equally well‒matched. Lot 69 features oval‒cut rubies, a shape commonly used by jewellers to enhance the brilliance of a Burmese ruby and bring out its excellent colour and clarity.