51 36 AN IMPRESSIVE RUBY AND DIAMOND NECKLACE Designed as a four‒strand necklace of gently graduating ruby beads measuring from 4.43 mm to 5.20 mm culminating in scroll‒shaped side pendants of brilliant cut diamonds extending to three rows of ruby beads, measuring from 3.20 mm to 4.28 mm terminating in a diamond clasp mounted in platinum. Ruby: 286.13 carats Diamond: 11.50 carats Gross weight: 83.14 grams Rs 45,00,000 ‒ 55,00,000 $54,220 ‒ 66,270
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53 37 A MAGNIFICENT PAIR OF BURMESE RUBY AND DIAMOND EARRINGS Each centring on an oval‒shaped ruby with a surround of alternate oval‒shaped and baguette‒cut diamonds, mounted in 18K gold. Ruby: 10.83 carats Diamond: 5.71 carats Gross weight: 8.99 grams Length of earrings: 1.8 cm Rs 55,00,000 ‒ 75,00,000 $66,270 ‒ 90,365 With report number GRS2023‒091425 and GRS2023‒091424 dated 27 October 2023 from Gem Research Swisslab stating that the 5.30 carats and 5.53 carat rubies respectively, are natural from Burma with no indications of heat. 38 IMPORTANT SPINEL AND DIAMOND EARRINGS Of floral motif, each centring on a sugar loaf spinel with a surround of alternately set rose‒cut and full‒ cut diamonds, mounted in 18K gold. Spinel: 31.05 carats Diamond: 18.5 carats Gross weight: 22.91 grams Diameter: 3.6 cm Rs 22,00,000 ‒ 28,00,000 $26,510 ‒ 33,735
54 39 PAIR OF RUBY AND DIAMOND EARRINGS Each designed as a bombe, pavé‒set with full‒cut rubies and diamonds, mounted in 18K gold. Ruby: 19.64 carats Diamond: 1.85 carats Gross weight: 23.21 grams Length of earrings: 2.4 cm Rs 4,50,000 ‒ 6,50,000 $5,425 ‒ 7,835 40 RUBY AND DIAMOND RING Designed in a bombe, pavé‒set with full‒cut rubies and diamonds, mounted in 18K gold. Diamonds: 1.18 carats Ruby: 8.60 carats Gross Weight: 9.890 grams Rs 2,20,000 ‒ 2,80,000 $2,655 ‒ 3,375 Ring size: American 6 1/2, English M 1/2
55 41 BURMESE RUBY AND DIAMOND NECKLACE Designed as a torsade necklace set with ruby and diamonds to an Art Deco clasp set with full‒cut diamonds, mounted in platinum. Ruby: 274 carats Diamond: 17.07 carats Gross weight: 69.64 grams Rs 16,00,000 ‒ 20,00,000 $19,280 ‒ 24,100 With report number GEM‒23101417‒001 dated 8 December 2023 from Gemmological Institute of India, stating five randomly selected ruby beads in the necklace weighing 69.640 grams are natural from Burma with no indications of heat.
56 42 PAIR OF DIAMOND EARRINGS Each earring centring a full‒cut diamond surrounded by concentric circles, each set with full‒cut diamonds, plated with blue rhodium, mounted in 18K gold. Diamond: 6.44 carats Gross weight: 21.68 grams Diameter: 3.6 cm Rs 3,80,000 ‒ 4,80,000 $4,580 ‒ 5,785 43 PAIR OF DIAMOND EARRINGS Each earring comprises a diamond‒set surmount suspending units of chevron‒shaped plaques and set with full‒cut diamonds, mounted in 18K gold and silver. Diamond: 2.47 carats Gross weight: 16.37 grams Length of earrings: 6.3 cm Rs 1,50,000 ‒ 2,50,000 $1,810 ‒ 3,015
57 44 AMETHYST, PINK SAPPHIRE AND DIAMOND RING Centring on a rectangular amethyst with one edge of the shank set with pink sapphire baguettes and the other edge set with full‒cut diamonds, mounted in 18K gold. Amethyst: 6.03 carats Pink sapphire: 2.31 carats Diamond: 0.79 carats Gross weight: 13.20 grams Rs 1,50,000 ‒ 2,50,000 $1,810 ‒ 3,015 Ring size: American 7, English O 45 PAIR OF AMETHYST AND DIAMOND EARRINGS Each centring an elongated hexagonal amethyst suspended from a full‒cut diamond surmount with two arch‒shaped rows attached to a diamond baguette plaque with similarly set rectangular rows of brilliant cut diamonds on either side, mounted in 18K gold. Amethyst: 22.15 carats Onyx: 0.75 carat Diamond: 4.01 carats Gross weight: 22.87 grams Length of earring: 7.8 cm Rs 3,80,000 ‒ 4,80,000 $4,580 ‒ 5,785
58 46 PAIR OF GREEN BERYL, MORGANITE AND DIAMOND EARRINGS Each designed as an elongated earring suspending from a trefoil motif set with rose‒cut diamonds, suspending a cushion‒cut green beryl and oval‒ shaped morganite with rose‒cut diamond spacers to a cluster of oval‒shaped green beryls, mounted 18K gold. Green beryl: 13.19 carats Morganite: 2.12 carats Diamond: 1.54 carats Gross weight: 14.04 grams Length of earrings: 5.3 cm Rs 3,00,000 ‒ 5,00,000 $3,615 ‒ 6,025 47 BURMESE RUBY AND DIAMOND RING Centring a rectangular ruby with a surround of rose‒ cut pear‒shaped diamonds, mounted in 18K gold. Ruby: 10.33 carats Diamond: 2.82 carats Gross weight: 8.83 grams Rs 26,00,000 ‒ 28,00,000 $31,330 ‒ 33,735 Ring size: American 6 1/2, English M ½ With report number GRS2019‒091046 dated 10 September 2019 from Gem Research Swisslab stating that the 10.33 carat ruby is natural from Burma with no indications of heat.
59 49 PAIR OF DIAMOND EARRINGS Each designed as an octagon, set with baguette‒ shaped and full‒cut diamonds in the centre and alternate layers of full‒cut and baguette‒shaped diamonds, mounted in 18K gold. Diamond: 2.09 carats Gross weight: 8.19 grams Dimensions: 1.5 x 1.4 cm Rs 2,50,000 ‒ 3,50,000 $3,015 ‒ 4,220 48 A MAGNIFICENT PAIR OF COLOMBIAN EMERALD AND DIAMOND EARRINGS Each centring on an octagonal emerald with a surround of alternating oval‒shaped and baguette‒ cut diamonds, mounted in 18K gold. Emerald: 11.54 carats Diamond: 7.60 carats Gross weight: 13.75 grams Diameter: 2 x 1.8 cm Rs 36,00,000 ‒ 42,00,000 $43,375 ‒ 50,605 With report number CDC2303219/1&2 dated 7 March 2023 from C.Dunaigre stating that the 5.80 carats and 5.74 carat emeralds are natural from Colombia with insignificant enhancement.
60 50 ELEVEN‒STRAND EMERALD BEAD NECKLACE Comprising of eleven strands of emerald beads graduating from 1.28 mm to 5.6 mm accompanied with two side spacers and joined by a silk cord. Emerald: 701 carats Rs 12,50,000 ‒ 15,50,000 $15,065 ‒ 18,675
61 51 PAIR OF DIAMOND EARRINGS Each designed as an articulated line of three gently graduating old European–cut diamonds, suspending three diamond briolettes mounted in 18K gold. Diamond (old European–cut): 11.67 carats Diamond (briolette): 7.48 carats Diamond (cushion): 0.27 carats Gross weight: 12.294 grams Length of earrings: 4 cm Rs 45,00,000 ‒ 55,00,000 $54,220 ‒ 66,270 52 PAIR OF TANZANITE AND DIAMOND EARRINGS Each centring a cushion‒shaped tanzanite with a surround of full‒cut diamonds, mounted in 18K gold. Diamond: 4.27 carats Tanzanite: 22.03 carats Gross weight. 18.12 grams Dimensions: 2 cm Rs 10,00,000 ‒ 15,00,000 $12,050 ‒ 18,075
62 Spinels have a rich history dating back thousands of years, and were often mistaken for other precious stones like rubies and sapphires due to their striking red and blue hues. Records of significant spinel mining date back to medieval times, with mentions in the writings of travellers like Marco Polo. They were especially prized by the Mughals for their striking beauty and vibrant colours, along with diamonds, emeralds, and other spectacular gems, and were worn as symbols of power and that reinforced the legitimacy of Mughal authority. They were not only used as a display of wealth and opulence but also to fund military campaigns and as a tool of diplomacy. Spinels were often valued even more than diamonds—Akbar, for example, wore them close to his body as protective talismans. They were prized for their soft pinkish‒red colour which symbolises both wine and the sun in Persian literature. (Nick Barnard, “Precious Stones to Serpents’ Bones”, Indian Jewellery: The V&A Collection, London: Victoria & Albert Publications, 2008, p. 32). The Mughals owned some of the finest spinels, many of which are now part of important collections around the world. The Carew spinel, an irregular pear‒shaped gem housed in the Victoria & Albert Museum in London, is engraved with the names of emperors Jehangir, Shah Jahan, and Aurangzeb. These emperors also possessed another important engraved spinel, the erroneously named Timur Ruby, which was later acquired by Maharaja Ranjit Singh, given to Queen Victoria in 1849, and ultimately set in a necklace that’s now part of the Crown jewels. Jahangir Presents Shah‒Jahan With a Turban Ornament in the Hall of Public Audience at Malwa, in Mandu, on 30 November 1617. This illustration is from a Padshahnamah manuscript formerly in the Mughal imperial library and now part of the Royal Collection Trust. Royal Collection Trust/© His Majesty King Charles III 2024
63 Some of the finest spinels were mined in Badakhshan, a region in the Pamir mountains between present‒ day Tajikistan and Afghanistan. The Kuh‒i‒Lal mines, overlooking the Panj River, are among the world’s oldest sources of spinels, with the first recorded mention of spinels from these mines made by Al Biruni in the late 10th or early 11th century. Until 1783, red and pink spinels were mistakenly believed to be rubies since they were found in the same deposits and were similar in appearance. However, they differ in composition—spinels contain magnesium‒aluminium oxide and rubies only contain aluminium oxide. Gem quality spinels were known as balas rubies, deriving their name from an ancient word for Badakhshan. The spectrum of spinel colours is attributed to trace elements present during its formation. For instance, the presence of chromium results in red spinel, while iron and cobalt contribute to blue varieties. Red and pink spinels are among the most sought‒after for their rich colour and rarity. ent during its formation. For instance, balt contribute to blue varieties. Red olour and rarity.
64 THE LEGACY OF THE GEM PALACE The Gem Palace in Jaipur is renowned for its handcrafted jewellery that has pushed the boundaries of the art form since its inception. It was founded by the Kasliwal family who originally served as court jewellers to the Mughal emperors for nearly three centuries. After relocating to Jaipur in 1728, they became the personal goldsmiths and jewellers to the Maharaja, establishing their workshop in the newly constructed City Palace before eventually moving to their current location on Mirza Ismail Road. Following India’s independence in 1947, The Gem Palace evolved from a royal atelier into one of the country’s premier retailers of fine jewellery, preserving ancient craftsmanship traditions under the leadership of the Kasliwal brothers Sudhir, the late Sanjay, and the late Munnu (Usha R Balakrishnan, “The Gem Palace: The Genius of Munnu Kasliwal,” Ekaterina Shcherbina ed., India: Jewels that Enchanted the World, London: Indo‒Russian Jewellery Foundation, 2014, p. 353). Munnu Kasliwal, with his passion for jewellery and craftsmanship, played a pivotal role in elevating The Gem Palace to international prominence. His signature designs—ranging from headdresses adorned with thousands of rose‒cut diamonds, emeralds, and natural pearls to “poison” rings with hidden chambers—transformed the business from a traditional local establishment into a globally recognized name. (Whitney Robinson, “The Dashing Heir to a Jewelry Empire Takes on the Legacy of the Maharajas,” Town & Country, 16 February 2017) External view of The Gem Palace on Mirza Ismail Road, Jaipur Image courtesy The Gem Palace
65 Munnu Kasliwal examining spinels that he later incorporated into pieces of jewellery at his studio. Image courtesy The Gem Palace Today, the legacy of The Gem Palace continues under the leadership of Sudhir Kasliwal, alongside Munnu’s sons, Siddharth and Samarth, and Sanjay Kasliwal’s son, Samir. The atelier’s brilliance lies in its seamless blending of the opulent Mughal aesthetic with spectacular contemporary designs, all crafted with exceptional attention to detail. This mastery has made The Gem Palace one of India’s most celebrated jewellery ateliers, with a prestigious clientele that has included Maharani Gayatri Devi, Jacqueline Kennedy, and Doreen Hope, the former Vicereine of India and Marchioness of Linlithgow. Munnu Kasliwal had a particular affinity for spinels and incorporated the gem into some of his most significant jewellery designs. The spinels in the present lot were part of his collection, which he acquired decades ago, and were crafted into this exceptional pair of earrings by his sons in his honour right after his death in 2012. The spinels are exceptionally well-matched, both in their rich red hue and their exceptional transparency—a rare occurrence. Each stone possesses excellent clarity and an outstanding brilliancy that creates a luminous inner glow. The minimal use of metal emphasizes the beauty of the spinels, which are further enhanced in each earring by the addition of a natural pearl, diamonds, and an emerald—a combination of gemstones that was highly favoured during the Mughal era and is reimagined here in a more contemporary style.
66 A spinel from the same collection of gems sourced by Munnu Kasliwal as those in the present lot. Reproduced from Eric Deroo, Munnu: Irresistible Jewels, 2011, pp. 60-61 A majestic spinel and diamond sarpech by The Gem Palace. Sold at Saffronart, Auction of Fine Jewels, 7‒8 October 2008, lot 75 The process of the planning and cutting of a spinel from rough stone to a polished tumbled bead.
67 53 AN IMPORTANT PAIR OF SPINEL, NATURAL PEARL, EMERALD AND DIAMOND EARRINGS BY THE GEM PALACE Each centring on a circular pearl elegantly set with diamonds on the prongs suspending a beautiful rectangular emerald further suspending stunning well‒matched tumbled spinels, mounted in platinum. Natural Pearl: 28.75 carats Spinel: 78 carats (estimated) Emerald: 2.40 carats Diamond: 4.70 carats Gross weight: 38.70 grams Length of earrings: 6.2 cm Rs 1,30,00,000 ‒ 1,80,00,000 $156,630 ‒ 216,870 With SSEF certificate dated 21 September 2024 stating that the two spinels in the ear pendants are natural with moderate oiling, originating from Tajikistan. With report number 018071 and 018072 both dated 31 August 2018 from the Shri Zaveri Mahajan Zaverat & Moti Tolai Charitable Trust stating that the pearls weighing 14.89 carats and 13.85 carats respectively are natural pearls.
68 54 EMERALD AND DIAMOND CHOKER CUM BRACELET Centring an octagonal diamond in a flower motif and a surround of pear‒shaped emeralds with a chain of alternating diamonds and a series of plaques consisting of diamond baguettes and pear‒shaped emeralds on either side, mounted in 18K gold. The lot can be converted into a bracelet. Emerald: 16.63 carats Diamond: 15.63 carats Gross weight: 32.38 grams Length of bracelet: 17.5 cm Rs 12,00,000 ‒ 15,00,000 $14,460 ‒ 18,075
69 55 RUBY AND DIAMOND NECKLACE Designed as a single row necklace with gently graduating modified pear‒shaped rubies and full‒cut diamonds, mounted in 18K gold. Ruby: 36.35 carats Diamond: 4.06 carats Gross weight: 38.81 grams Rs 14,00,000 ‒ 16,00,000 $16,870 ‒ 19,280 56 PAIR OF RUBY AND DIAMOND EARRINGS Designed as a stylised peacock‒shaped motif with a ruby for an ‘eye’ tapering to a ‘neck’ set with baguette‒shaped diamonds and the body set with modified baguette‒shaped diamonds to a cascade of tapering baguette‒shaped rubies, mounted in gold. Ruby: 9.66 carats Diamond (half moon): 0.73 carat Diamond: 3.60 carats Gross weight: 21.80 grams Length of earrings: 6.4 cm Rs 8,50,000 ‒ 10,50,000 $10,245 ‒ 12,655
70 57 SPINEL AND DIAMOND RING Centring on a rectangular spinel with a surround of variously shaped rose‒cut and full‒cut diamonds, mounted in 18K gold. Spinel: 12.92 carats Diamond (rose‒cut): 3.71 carats Diamond: 1.66 carats Gross weight: 10.61 grams Rs 11,00,000 ‒ 14,00,000 $13,255 ‒ 16,870 Ring size: American 7 1/2, English P 58 PAIR OF PINK SAPPHIRE AND DIAMOND EARRINGS Centring on rose‒cut diamonds with a surround of inversely set full‒cut and rose‒cut oval diamonds, further surrounded by variously shaped pink sapphires, mounted in 18K gold. Pink sapphire: 11.24 carats Diamond (rose‒cuts): 2.96 Diamond: 0.75 carats Gross weight: 14.53 grams Length of earring: 3.6 cm Rs 10,00,000 ‒ 15,00,000 $12,050 ‒ 18,075
71 59 PAIR OF EMERALD AND DIAMOND EARRINGS Each centring a rose‒cut diamond in a flexible Victorian‒inspired openwork foliate motif, suspending an emerald drop with an openwork surround of floral and stylised leaf motifs , mounted in gold and silver. Gross weight: 11.95 grams Length of earrings: 5.5 cm Rs 5,00,000 ‒ 7,00,000 $6,025 ‒ 8,435 60 PAIR OF TSAVORITE AND DIAMOND EARRINGS Each designed as a modified leaf centring a full‒cut diamond with a surround of two‒tier full‒cut diamond and tsavorites in a pear‒shape motif suspending to a row of similarly set diamonds suspending to a pear‒ shape tsavorite and full‒cut diamonds, mounted in 18K gold. Tsavorite: 1.80 carats Diamonds: 2.62 carats Gross weight: 19.05 grams Length of earrings: 6.3 cm Rs 3,50,000 ‒ 4,50,000 $4,220 ‒ 5,425
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73 Lots 61–88 Closing Time: Wednesday, 16 October 2024 8.45 pm (IST) 11.15 am (US Eastern Time)
74 61 AN IMPORTANT PERIOD PEARL, EMERALD AND DIAMOND SARPECH Centring on a circular old‒cut diamond with a two layer surround of rose‒cut diamonds followed by a similarly set crescent suspending a stunning emerald briolette at the centre with a fringe of pearls on either side and a feather plume on top, mounted in gold and silver. Emerald: 7.86 carats (estimated) Pearl: 35 carats (estimated) Diamond: 22.05 carats (estimated) Gross weight: 56.02 grams Length: 22.5 cm Rs 32,00,000 ‒ 42,00,000 $38,555 ‒ 50,605 Portrait of Raja Prakash Chand of Guler Guler, Circa 1785 This miniature shows Raja Prakash Chand of Guler wearing a sarpech with a feather plume, similar to the present lot. The sarpech is a traditional turban ornament originating in India often associated with royalty. Historically the turban has been an important piece of headgear in the subcontinent; it would confer dignity on the wearer. The sarpech adorning these turbans reflected the wearer’s prestige as a symbol of power and standing. It is a testament to the potent and widespread cultural importance of the ornament that the Mughals passed sumptuary laws forbidding nearly everyone outside of nobility from wearing it. Since it was visible to everyone who witnessed the king at court or in procession, the sarpech became significant to the performance of kingship. The more ostentatious ones were designed with the most spectacular jewels on offer. The present lot is a period ornament centred on an old‒cut diamond with a faceting style popular in the 19th century. The diamonds in the crescent are of a symmetrical elongated cut which enhances their radiance. It boasts of a fringe of graduating natural saltwater pearls and a beautiful tawiz‒shaped Colombian emerald giving the piece movement. The style of the sarpech differs from the traditional design, with a feather plume in place of a gemset kalgi. It is best worn at the front of the turban with the threads drawn through the loops at either side holding it up. The piece is notable for the lack of enamel on the reverse which sets it apart from most sarpeches made in North India, although not enamelling the back is common for the region of Gujarat. The dazzling effect of the diamonds of various cuts, pearls and emerald combined with the playful flamboyance of the plume give this sarpech an elegance that makes it the perfect addition to an outfit for a special occasion.
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76 63 AN IMPORTANT COLOMBIAN EMERALD AND DIAMOND NECKLACE Seven rows of gently graduated emerald beads measuring from 2.90 mm to 9.50 mm, joined with an Art Deco‒inspired clasp, centring on a full‒cut diamond, to an openwork surround set with full‒cut diamonds, mounted in 18K gold. Emerald: 632.95 carats Diamond: 3.92 grams Gross weight: 136.40 grams Rs 1,20,00,000 ‒ 1,80,00,000 $144,580 ‒ 216,870 With report number 649442351 dated 9 September 2024 from International Gemological Institute stating a randomly selected emerald bead from the necklace, weighing 1.50 carats, is natural from Colombia with minor clarity enhancement. 62 AN IMPORTANT COLOMBIAN EMERALD AND DIAMOND RING Centring on an octagon‒shaped emerald surrounded by full‒cut and baguette‒shaped diamonds, mounted in 18K gold. Emerald: 18.43 carats Diamond: 2.36 carats Gross weight: 13.85 grams Dimensions: 2.5 x 2.2 cm Rs 75,00,000 ‒ 90,00,000 $90,365 ‒ 108,435 Ring size: American 6 3/4, English N With report number GRS2022‒066621 dated 16 June 2022 from Gemresearch SwissLab stating the 18.43 carats emerald is natural from Colombia with insignificant enhancement. Colombian emeralds very quickly dethroned those from the Egyptian mines as the most sought‒after emeralds after their discovery by the Spanish conquistadors in the 1500s. They became the gold standard being vastly superior to any emeralds in circulation before. Known for their captivating “green fire,” these gemstones have a “near‒perfect colour chemistry, thanks to varying concentrations of chromium and vanadium and the absence or near‒absence of iron. This lack of iron means that a Colombian emerald fluoresces in normal light.” (Jonathan Self, “The Story of the Emerald: Colombian Adventure: Emeralds, Butterflies and Prospectors in the High Andes”, Robert Violette ed, Emerald: Twenty‒one Centuries of Jewelled Opulence and Power, Violette Limited and Gemfields PLC, 2013, p. 267) Lot 63 exemplifies this allure, showcasing graduated emeralds that have been consistently matched for colour, shape and size in a spectacular necklace. The Mughals were particularly captivated by these precious stones and played a pivotal role in their history. Jehangir wrote of the emeralds from the “New World”, “Although it is from a new mine, it is of extremely good colour and valuable. Until now nothing like it has been seen.” (Jonathan Self, “The Story of the Emerald: The Thin Green Line: A Tale of Three Empires”, Robert Violette ed, Emerald: Twenty‒one Centuries of Jewelled Opulence and Power, Violette Limited and Gemfields PLC, 2013, p. 260) His excitement is easy to understand on seeing lots 44 and 64. Lot 44 is a pair of radiant earrings centring on two well‒matched natural Colombian emeralds with only minor enhancements. Lot 64 features Colombian emeralds whose exceptional beauty and rare transparency is enhanced by a masterful step cut.
Lot 63
78 65 PAIR OF TANZANITE, ONYX AND DIAMOND EARRINGS Centring on a modified trapezoid‒shaped tanzanite with a surround of full‒cut diamonds suspending graduating plaques set with diamonds to a onyx and full‒cut diamond set surmount, mounted in 18K gold. Tanzanite: 17.17 carats Onyx: 0.45 carat Diamonds: 5.65 carats Gross weight: 20.89 grams Length of earring: 6.2 cm Rs 9,50,000 ‒ 12,50,000 $11,450 ‒ 15,065 64 AN IMPORTANT COLOMBIAN EMERALD AND DIAMOND EARRINGS Each centring a well‒matched rectangular step‒ cut emerald with a surround of variously shaped diamonds suspending to a row of full‒cut diamond and emerald set hoops, mounted in 18K gold. Emerald: 3.85 carats Diamond (rose‒cut): 2.8 carats Diamond (portrait‒cut): 2.08 carats Diamond: 0.49 carats Gross weight: 9.18 grams Length of earrings: 4.5 cm Rs 28,00,000 ‒ 32,00,000 $33,735 ‒ 38,555 With report number GRS2017‒016544 and GRS2017‒016549 dated 12 January 2017 from GemResearch Swisslab stating the 1.79 carats and 1.96 carats emeralds respectively are natural from Colombia with insignificant oiling.
79 66 PAIR OF TANZANITE AND DIAMOND EARRINGS Each designed with a cluster of variously shaped rose‒cut diamonds suspending a inverted shield‒cut tanzanite, mounted in 18K gold. Tanzanite: 11.75 carats Diamond (rose‒cut): 2.26 carats Gross weight: 7.29 grams Length of earrings: 3 cm Rs 6,50,000 ‒ 8,50,000 $7,835 ‒ 10,245 67 TANZANITE AND DIAMOND RING Centring on an oval‒shaped tanzanite cabochon with floral motifs on either side set with pear‒shaped, rose‒cut diamonds and a full‒cut diamond surround to diamond beads on shank, mounted in 18K gold. Tanzanite: 39.53 carats Diamond (rose‒cuts): 1.30 carats Diamond (beads): 1.49 carats Diamond: 0.41 carats Gross weight: 12.96 grams Rs 6,50,000 ‒ 8,50,000 $7,835 ‒ 10,245 Ring size: American 6 1/4 , English M
80 68 PAIR OF EMERALD, TSAVORITE AND DIAMOND EARRINGS Each designed in a sunburst motif, centring a marquise‒shaped emerald to a surround of full‒cut diamonds, radiating further to alternating ‘spokes’ set with full‒cut tsavorites and diamonds, mounted in 18K gold. Emeralds: 3.45 carats Tsavorite: 0.77 carats Diamond: 0.37 carats Gross weight: 14.9 grams Dimensions: 4.1 x 3.5 cm Rs 6,00,000 ‒ 9,00,000 $7,230 ‒ 10,845 69 PAIR OF BURMESE RUBY AND DIAMOND EARRINGS Centring on an oval‒shaped diamond to a surround of full‒cut diamonds and rubies suspending an oval‒ shaped ruby with a similar surround. The reverse is a filigree design in crescent motif, mounted in 18K gold. Ruby (oval): 8.31 carats Ruby: 1.43 carats Diamond: 2.18 carats Gross weight: 13.37 grams Length of earrings: 4.1 cm Rs 15,00,000 ‒ 20,00,000 $18,075 ‒ 24,100 With report number GRS2016‒030779 dated 16 May 2016 from Gem Research Swisslab stating that the 4.66 carats and 3.65 carat rubies are natural from Burma with indications of heat enhancement.
81 70 EMERALD, RUBY AND DIAMOND NECKLACE Designed as a three row necklace each with a pendant, graduating in size, centring on cushion‒shaped emeralds, with a surround of marquise‒cut rubies and baguette‒shaped diamonds to a chain with interspaced emerald beads flanked by ruby beads on either side, mounted in 18K gold. Ruby: 18.96 carats Emerald (centre stones): 15.62 carats Emerald (beads): 61.17 carats Diamond: 5.5 carats Gross weight: 37.71 grams Rs 18,00,000 ‒ 22,00,000 $21,690 ‒ 26,510
82 71 PAIR OF EMERALD AND DIAMOND EARRINGS Each designed as a semi‒circular earring with two‒ tier, gently graduating heart‒shaped emeralds and pear‒shaped diamonds, mounted in 18K gold. Emerald: 7.94 carats Diamond: 3.28 carats Gross weight: 8.55 grams Diameter: 2.5 cm Rs 6,50,000 ‒ 8,50,000 $7,835 ‒ 10,245 72 EMERALD AND DIAMOND RING Centring on a rectangular step‒cut emerald with a surround of pave‒set full‒cut diamonds to a similarly set band, mounted in 18K gold. Emerald: 2.97 carats Diamond: 1.39 carats Gross weight: 5.44 grams Rs 3,50,000 ‒ 5,50,000 $4,220 ‒ 6,630 Ring size: American 7, English N 1/2
83 73 EXCEPTIONAL EMERALD AND DIAMOND EARRINGS Each centring on a modified emerald tablet with a surround of full‒cut diamonds and emeralds, suspending from a diamond‒set hoop, culminating in a series of gently graduating pear‒shaped, rose‒cut diamonds, mounted in 18K gold. Emerald: 31.78 carats Diamond (rose‒cut): 3.78 carats Diamond: 1.04 carats Gross weight: 16.52 grams Length of earrings: 7.3 cm Rs 25,00,000 ‒ 30,00,000 $30,125 ‒ 36,145 With rep or t numb er GE M‒23100665‒001 and GEM‒23100665‒002 dated 26 July 2023 and 24 July 2023 from Gemmological Institute of India, stating the emeralds weighing 15.48 carats and 15.11 carats respectively are natural with minor enhancement by oil.
84 75 EMERALD AND DIAMOND RING Centring on an octagon‒shaped emerald, flanked by two half‒moon modified brilliant diamonds on either side, mounted in 18K gold. Emerald: 3.78 carats Diamond: 0.58 carats Gross weight: 5.13 grams Rs 9,00,000 ‒ 12,00,000 $10,845 ‒ 14,460 Ring size: American 7 , English N1/2 74 EMERALD AND DIAMOND BRACELET Designed with six plaques in a geometric pattern featuring square and baguette emeralds and full‒cut diamonds, each connected by channel‒set baguette diamonds, mounted in 18K gold. Emerald: 3.12 carats Diamond: 11.94 carats Gross weight: 77.67 grams Length of bracelet: 19.5 cm Rs 13,00,000 ‒ 15,00,000 $15,665 ‒ 18,075
85 77 PAIR OF EMERALD AND DIAMOND EARRINGS Centring on oval‒shaped emeralds with a two‒ tier surround of pear‒shaped, rose‒cut diamonds, mounted in 18K gold. Emerald: 5.20 carats Diamond (rose‒cut): 4.98 carats Gross weight: 7.93 grams Dimensions: 2.1 x 1.9 cm Rs 12,00,000 ‒ 15,00,000 $14,460 ‒ 18,075 76 EMERALD AND DIAMOND RING Centring on an oval‒shaped emerald to an inner surmount of diamond briolettes extending to a second surmount of oval‒shaped, rose‒cut diamonds, mounted in gold. Emerald: 4.64 carats Diamond (briolette): 3.26 carats Diamond (rose‒cut): 1.80 carats Gross weight: 11.32 grams Rs 6,50,000 ‒ 8,50,000 $7,835 ‒ 10,245 Ring size: American 5 , English J 1/2
86 78 EMERALD, PEARL AND DIAMOND NECKLACE Centring on a pendant set with a pear‒shaped emerald and a two‒tier surround of full‒cut diamonds suspending three pearl drops. On either side is a series of graduating units set with pearls and full‒cut and baguette‒shaped diamonds, each culminating in a pear‒shaped emerald in a paisley motif, each separated by a pearl, mounted in 18K gold. Emerald: 38.86 carats Pearl: 75.32 carats Diamond: 8.95 carats Gross weight: 91.34 grams Rs 26,00,000 ‒ 32,00,000 $31,330 ‒ 38,555
87 79 PANJSHIR EMERALD, RUBY AND DIAMOND NECKLACE A two‒row flexible necklace alternatively set with ruby and diamond beads suspending diamond briolettes and carved drop‒shaped emeralds to a diamond‒set clasp, mounted in 18K gold. Emerald: 164.7 carats Ruby: 117 carats Diamond: 29.61 carats Gross weight: 69.84 grams Rs 45,00,000 ‒ 55,00,000 $54,220 ‒ 66,270 With report number GL7378CA13920 dated 26 August 2022 from IIGJ‒ Research and Laboratories Centre, Jaipur, stating the carved emerald bead weighing 16.26 carats is natural from Afghanistan (Panjshir) with indications of moderate oiling. The discovery of beryls in a remote Afghan valley in the Hindu Kush in the 1970s has been a breakthrough for the gemmological community. Panjshir emeralds, as they have come to be known, come from among a handful of active mines producing fine quality emeralds. In fact, emeralds from the Panjshir mines are comparable to Colombian emeralds in most relevant aspects. The emeralds in this beautiful two‒row necklace display the spectacular clarity for which Panjshir emeralds are renowned.
88 80 EMERALD AND DIAMOND NECKLACE A stylish necklace set with a line of variously shaped rose‒cut diamonds suspending graduating units, each set with alternate square‒shaped emeralds, rose‒cut and pear‒shaped diamonds, mounted in 18K gold. Emerald: 46.95 carat Diamond: 18.22 carats Gross weight: 64.39 grams Rs 30,00,000 ‒ 35,00,000 $36,145 ‒ 42,170
89 82 PAIR OF DIAMOND EARRINGS Set with full‒cut and baguette‒cut diamonds, each earring has a floral motif, suspending from three circular chain motifs, further suspending from a floral surmount, mounted in 18K gold. Diamond: 3.25 carats Gross weight: 17.45 grams Length of earrings: 6 cm Rs 3,50,000 ‒ 4,50,000 $4,220 ‒ 5,425 81 PAIR OF TSAVORITE AND DIAMOND EARRINGS Each designed as a flexible feather with a rachis channel‒set with square‒shaped diamonds and vane set with full‒cut tsavorites, mounted in 18K gold. Diamonds: 3.57 carats Tsavorite: 17.36 carats Gross weight: 34.87 grams Length of earrings: 7.5 cm Rs 7,00,000 ‒ 9,00,000 $8,435 ‒ 10,845
90 Tanzanite was first discovered in 1967 by a Masai tribesman named Ndugu Jumanne Ngoma, who stumbled upon a cluster of shimmering blue crystals in the Merelani Hills of Tanzania. With a colour vibrant enough to rival sapphires, the stone quickly captured attention in the international jewellery market. Tiffany & Co. soon secured a deal to become its primary global distributor and renamed the stone, which is a variation of the mineral zoisite, as tanzanite.
91 83 PAIR OF TANZANITE AND DIAMOND EARRINGS Each centring a modified pear‒shaped tanzanite with a surround of diamond briolettes, mounted in 18K gold. Tanzanite: 22.25 carats Diamond (briolette): 13.70 carats Gross weight: 14.30 grams Dimensions: 2.6 cm Rs 16,00,000 ‒ 19,00,000 $19,280 ‒ 22,895 84 ZAMBIAN EMERALD AND DIAMOND RING Centring on a rectangular step‒cut emerald with a surround of full‒cut diamonds, mounted in 18K gold. Emerald: 7.26 carats Diamond: 2.75 carats Gross weight: 9.76 grams Rs 14,00,000 ‒ 18,00,000 $16,870 ‒ 21,690 Ring size: American 7 1/4, English O 1/2 With report number CDC 1709138 dated 10 September 2017 from C.Dunaigre stating the 7.26 carats emerald is natural from Zambia with insignificant enhancement. Tanzanite is known for its distinct pleochroic quality that allows the stone, in its natural state, to display three different colours—blue, violet, and burgundy. Once polished, tanzanite can range from pale blues and lilacs to deep indigos and intense blues, depending on the stone’s clarity and cut. Smaller stones often exhibit lighter shades of lavender or periwinkle, while stones over ten carats tend to reveal richer, more saturated blue hues. Arusha, Tanzania, remains the sole source of tanzanite in the world, and some experts predict that the mines will be depleted in the near future, further increasing the rarity of this gemstone. This scarcity, combined with its dazzling colour, has significantly contributed to its rising demand. In recent years, designers have experimented with various shapes and cuts to showcase the stone’s beauty. This is evident in lot 66, a pair of earrings with modified shield‒shaped tanzanites; lot 83 a pair of earrings with modified pear‒shaped tanzanites with flat edges; and lot 88, a sugar cube cabochon ring.
92 86 EMERALD, TANZANITE AND DIAMOND BRACELET Designed as a row of six oval‒shaped emeralds flanked by an oval‒shaped tanzanite on either side, interspaced by oval‒shaped tanzanites with marquise‒shaped rose‒cut diamonds in floral motif on either side, mounted in gold. Emerald: 11.83 carats Tanzanite: 26.14 carats Diamond (rose‒cut): 6.16 carats Gross weight: 34.33 grams Length of bracelet: 17 cm Rs 14,00,000 ‒ 16,00,000 $16,870 ‒ 19,280 85 PAIR OF EMERALD AND DIAMOND EARRINGS Each centring on an oval‒shaped emerald with a surround of full‒cut diamonds and cushion‒shaped coloured diamonds on four sides, mounted in 18K gold. Emerald: 13.77 carats Diamond: 3.56 carats Gross weight: 12.51 grams Dimensions: 2 x 1.7 cm Rs 14,00,000 ‒ 18,00,000 $16,870 ‒ 21,690 Coloured diamonds have not been tested for natural origin of colour.
93 88 TANZANITE, CHALCEDONY AND DIAMOND RING Centring on a tanzanite cabochon with a surround of full‒cut diamonds set into a band of chalcedony, mounted in 18K gold. Tanzanite: 10.8 carats Chalcedony: 22.7 carats Diamonds: 0.21 carats Gross weight: 15.40 grams Rs 1,50,000 ‒ 2,50,000 $1,810 ‒ 3,015 Ring size: American 7, English N 1/2 87 PAIR OF TANZANITE AND AQUAMARINE EARRINGS Each designed with a pear‒shaped tanzanite with a surround of full‒cut diamonds suspending a similarly set cushion‒shaped aquamarine with two rose‒cut diamonds on either side, to a similarly set tanzanite on the bottom, mounted in 18K gold. Tanzanite: 6.94 carats Aquamarine: 7.71 carats Diamond: 2.49 carats Gross weight: 15.57 grams Length of earrings: 6.7 cm Rs 4,50,000 ‒ 6,50,000 $5,425 ‒ 7,835
94
95 Lots 89–117 Closing Time: Wednesday, 16 October 2024 9 pm (IST) 11.30 am (US Eastern Time)
96 The brooch is one of the oldest forms of jewellery, originating in the Bronze Age. Its predecessor, the fibula, was crafted from wire and used to secure garments, functioning much like a safety pin. As jewellery making techniques advanced, it evolved from a strictly functional item to an elaborate piece of jewellery prized for its beauty and extraordinary craftsmanship. With the increase in people’s wealth, it became a widely popular accessory favoured by many including Queen Victoria, who made it the “quintessential jewel of the period.” Lori Ettlinger Gross, “Collecting”, Brooches: Timeless Adornment, New York: Rizzoli International Publications, p. 79) This eventually led to greater diversity in design as brooches began to feature cameos, newly cut precious gems, and intricate forms such as birds, flowers, leaves, crescents, stars, and bows. Lot 92, crafted with exquisite old‒cut diamonds and a beautiful pearl drop, stands out for its balanced design of three loops that are reminiscent of the ribbon bow brooch which first appeared in the mid‒17th century. The earliest iteration of this design was the symmetric, twin‒looped sévigné named after the Marquise de Sévigné, a member of the court of Louis XIV, which later became more asymmetrical in style. Lot 90, from the late Art Deco period exemplifies the bold, geometric, and rectilinear forms that were emblematic of the movement. Diamonds took centre stage in Art Deco jewellery, with cuts such as baguette, marquise, emerald, triangle, and shield becoming popular due to the era’s geometric influence. These gems were frequently set in platinum and silver, which gained popularity alongside modern materials like glass and plastic. Lot 89 demonstrates the innovations in design seen during this period. It highlights the versatility of the brooch as an accessory and can be worn attached to lapels or used to decorate accessories such as a hat, belt, or handbag. Natural themes were immensely popular during the Victorian era and continue to be admired by collectors today. These pieces, such as lots 93 and 94 captivate viewers by artfully reflecting the beauty of fauna in scintillating jewels and clever designs. This theme was also a favourite of actor Elizabeth Taylor, who amassed an impressive collection of brooches throughout her life. For many, including Taylor, brooches serve not only as fashion statements but also as symbols of personal expression and meaning. Hollywood actor Carole Lombard wearing a brooch, similar to the present lot 89, to adorn the strap of her gown. ScreenProd / Photononstop / Alamy Stock Photo
97 89 PERIOD COLLAR PIN CUM BROOCH Designed as a scroll motif with two detachable brooches, set with full‒cut and baguette‒cut diamonds and stamped ‘ARGENTINA PLATINUM’, mounted in platinum. Diamond: 20.01 carats (estimated) Gross weight: 55.82 grams Length of brooch: 9.5 cm Circa 1930s Rs 15,00,000 ‒ 20,00,000 $18,075 ‒ 24,100
98 90 ART DECO DIAMOND BROOCH A brooch of stylised geometric design centring a triangular diamond set in an openwork design with well‒matched tapering baguettes and full‒cut diamonds, mounted in platinum. Gross weight: 20.57 grams Dimension: 4 x 3.7 cm Rs 9,00,000 ‒ 12,00,000 $10,845 ‒ 14,460 91 PERIOD DIAMOND BROOCH Designed to resemble a floral bouquet, centring on a flower motif flanked on one side by variously shaped leaves set with rose‒cut diamonds, mounted in silver and gold. Diamond: 9.50 carats Gross weight: 28.14 grams Length of brooch: 7.9 cm Rs 5,00,000 ‒ 7,00,000 $6,025 ‒ 8,435
99 92 PERIOD PEARL AND DIAMOND BROOCH Centring on an old‒cut diamond with a surround of ribbon motifs each centring an old‒cut diamond, suspending a similarly set floral motif, further suspending a pearl, mounted in gold and silver. Pearl: 11 carats (estimated) Diamond: 7.10 carats (estimated) Gross weight: 12.14 grams Length of brooch: 5.5 cm Rs 28,00,000 ‒ 38,00,000 $33,735 ‒ 45,785 Accompanied by a fitted box.
100 94 EMERALD AND DIAMOND BROOCH Designed as a bird set with emerald eyes and a full‒ cut diamond set head to a body set with emerald cabochons to a tail of gold hangings, hallmarked and mounted in 18K gold. Emerald: 18.10 carats Diamond: 2.20 carats Gross weight: 22.60 grams Length of brooch: 6.5 cm Rs 5,00,000 ‒ 7,00,000 $6,025 ‒ 8,435 93 SET OF TWO: ‘DRAGONFLY’ BROOCHES Each designed as dragonfly brooches, one centring an oval‒shaped ruby and the other centring an oval‒ shaped emerald with full‒cut diamond set wings, mounted in 18K gold. a) Emerald: 1.22 carats Diamonds: 0.59 carats Gross weight: 7.882 grams Length of brooch: 4.4 cm b) Ruby: 1.50 carats Diamonds: 0.59 carats Gross weight: 7.938 grams Length of brooch: 4.4 cm Rs 4,00,000 ‒ 6,00,000 $4,820 ‒ 7,230 a b