March 2023 HOLLYWOOD’S NEWEST FASHION ICON HACKS forEVERY HAIRTYPE DARINGDENIM PRETTYinPINK DOTS&STRIPES TAROT-INSPIRED JEWELLERY JODIE TURNER-SMITH HELLO SPRING! (well,almost)
Discover... VOILA! 24 NEWS Fendi’s first home collection, Hunter goes goth, the latest from Wuxly and more. 26 DETAILS Indigenous elders inspire a Montreal milliner to add embroidery to her berets. 27 DNA Jenia Kim explains how her Soviet-Korean heritage impacts her creative process. 28 GET TO KNOW Brooke Wall is the Canadian powerhouse behind many of the red carpet’s most viral moments. 30 JEWELLERY 101 Talismans, lucky charms and tarot motifs are having a mystical moment this spring. 32 MY WATCH Nolan Bryant shares the stories behind his pair of beloved Cartier timepieces. 34 ASKANNIKA Opera gloves are no longer just for night. Annika Lautens offers advice on how to work them 24/7. 36 MERCH The Barbie effect continues, racer looks go from track to trend and boardroom pinstripes bring preppy style to the streets. 78 PHOTOGRAPHY BY LAWRENCE CORTEZ. STYLING BY CHAD BURTON FOR CADRE ARTIST MANAGEMENT. TOP, $2,320, PANTS, $1,910, JACKET, $3,400, AND EYEWEAR, $610, LOUIS VUITTON. M ARCH 202 3
ROMA FENDI BOUTIQUES 888 291 0163 FENDI.COM
On the Cover Dress and bag, prices upon request, Victoria Beckham. CANVAS 44 SHELFIE A new Boss scent, bold hair colour, playful press-on nails and more. 46 REGIMENS Race-car driver Samantha Tan on why hair and makeup matter to her performance. 48 HAIR CARE Ingrie Williams rounds up the latest hair hacks for every annoying challenge. 52 MY MAKEUP Eyeliner and symbolic shades of red, orange and turquoise have special meaning for Kairyn Potts. 54 TEXTURE TALK Four Canadians chat with Natasha Boateng about how locs are central to their Black identity. INSPO 58 TREND Fefe Dobson rocks the season’s most daring denim. 68 COVER STORY Jodie Turner-Smith took a chance on modelling and then segued into acting. Her choices have proven to be more than worthwhile. PHOTOGRAPHY: PENDANT COURTESY OF SORELLINA; BACKGROUND VIA ISTOCK. 78 SPOTLIGHT Louis Vuitton and Japanese contemporary artist Yayoi Kusama come together for a collection that captures the spirit of spring. 86 COLLECTING Regan Vasquez’s platform-shoe collection elevates foot fun to a whole new level. 90 Ƅ IT FOREVER A temptation with till-deathdo-us-part potential. What’ s Inside 30
www.mcmworldwide.com MCM Toronto 85 Bloor St W MCM Yorkdale 3401 Dufferin St
FAS H I O N M AG A Z I N E A N N UA L SUBS C R I P T I O N PR I C E: $ 2 9 . 9 9 P LUS H ST ( 7 I SSUES, PUBL I S H E D WI N T ER , M AR C H , A PR I L , SU M M ER , SE P T E M BER , O C T O BER A N D N O V E M BER). S I N G L E C O P I ES: $ 7. 9 9 . U N I T E D STAT ES, O N E Y E AR: $ 6 0. A L L O T H ER C O U N TR I ES: $ 100. T O C H A N G E YO UR SUBS C R I P T I O N A D D R ESS, P L E ASE SE N D YO UR N E W A N D O L D A D D RESSES T O: SUBS C R I P T I O N D E PAR T M E N T, FAS H I O N M A G A Z I N E , P. O . B OX 11 9 , ST N . M A I N , A L L IST O N , O N L 9 R 1 T 9 , AT L E AST S I X WE E KS I N A D VA N C E . T H E PUB L I S H ER AC C E P TS N O R ESP O N S IBI L I T Y F O R A DV ER T I SER C L A I M S O R U N S O L I C I T E D M A N US C R I P TS, TR A N SPAR E N C I ES O R O T H ER M AT ER I A LS. N O PAR T O F T H I S M AG A Z I N E M AY BE R E PR O D U C E D I N A N Y F O R M WI T H O UT T H E WR I T T E N P ER M I SS I O N O F T H E PUBL I S H ER . C O P YR I G H T 2 0 2 3 ST. J O SE P H M E D I A I N C . A L L R I G H TS R ESERV E D. WE AC K N OWL E D G E T H E F I N A N C I A L SUP P O R T O F T H E G O V ER N M E N T O F CA N A DA . C I R C UL AT I O N AU D I T E D BY A L L I A N C E F O R AU D I T E D M E D I A . PUBL I CAT I O N S M A I L AG R E E M E N T N O . 4 2 4 9 4 5 1 2 . R E TUR N U N D E L I V ER ABL E CA N A D I A N A D D R ESSES T O P. O . B OX 11 9 , ST N . M A I N , A L L I ST O N , O N L 9 R 1 T 9 . FAS H I O N M AG A Z I N E I S D I STR IBUT E D BY C O M AG M AR K E T I N G G R O UP. I S S N 1 4 9 6 - 5 7 8X . CONTRIBUTORS Bernicia Boateng, Laurie Brookins, Chad Burton, Karen Clarkson, Alex Cornes, Lawrence Cortez, Maggie Curwin, Molly Ellison, Nicolas Emas Varone, Jalen Fairclough, Ashley Galang, Royal Gilbert, Bailey Goss, Judy Gu, Kristjan Hayden, Lauren Knowles, Marcia Lee, Kai Luk-Laughton, Ryan L. McGovern, Joshua Onabowu, Odessa Paloma Parker, Ellen Reinerstedt, Sabrina Rinaldi, Lucy Tucker, Randi Vasquez, Ingrie Williams, Michael O Williams, Alice Yamagishi, Clara Young FASHION MAGAZINE 15 BENTON ROAD, TORONTO, ON M 6 M 3G2 PHONE 416-24 8-4 8 6 8 MONTREAL OFFICE 3 PLACE VILLE MARIE, SUITE 400, MONTREAL , QC H3B 2E3 PHONE 514- 28 4- 25 52 FAX 514- 28 4-4 49 2 FAS H I O N M A G A Z I N E M A R C H 2 0 2 3 · V O LU M E 5 8 I S SU E 2 · P R I N T I N G : ST. J O S E P H P R I N T I N G · D AT E O F I S SU E: F EB RUA RY 2 0 2 3 SU B S C R I P T I O N I N Q U I R I ES: 8 3 3 - 6 3 2 - 0 8 3 3 SPECIAL PROJECTS Charlotte Herrold SALES MANAGER, FASHION Deidre Marinelli ([email protected]) PRODUCTION MANAGER Judy Strader ST. JOSEPH COMMUNICATIONS CHAIRMAN & CEO Tony Gagliano VICE-CHAIRMAN John Gagliano SENIOR VICE-PRESIDENT, CONTENT & CREATIVE Maryam Sanati SENIOR VICE-PRESIDENT, REVENUE FOR SJC MEDIA James McNab EXECUTIVE VICE-PRESIDENT, ENTERPRISE OPERATIONS David McGrath EXECUTIVE VICE-PRESIDENT, SALES Ray D’Antonio EXECUTIVE VICE-PRESIDENT, SOCIAL & EMERGING PLATFORMS Jacqueline Loch VICE-PRESIDENT, BRANDED CONTENT & MARKETING Sasha Emmons VICE-PRESIDENT, DIGITAL SOLUTIONS & BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT Jason Maghanoy VICE-PRESIDENT, PRINT OPERATION Maria Mendes GENERAL MANAGER, AUDIENCE DEVELOPMENT & COMMERCE Michael Gagliano DIRECTOR, CIRCULATION Lisa Rivers EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Bernadette Morra CREATIVE & FASHION DIRECTOR George Antonopoulos DIGITAL DIRECTOR Jennifer Berry DIGITAL WRITER Natalie Michie COPY EDITORS/PROOFREADERS Marjorie Dunham-Landry Jane Fielding FASHION NEWS DIRECTOR Annika Lautens MARKET & SOCIAL MEDIA EDITOR Ivy Tang PRODUCTION EDITOR Lindsay Cooper EDITORIAL ASSISTANT Sarah Mariotti BEAUTY DIRECTOR Natasha Boateng ASSOCIATE ART DIRECTOR Danielle Campbell (on leave) ACTING ASSOCIATE ART DIRECTOR Leo Tapel JUNIOR DESIGNER/PHOTO EDITOR Kayleen Dicuangco For every ton of paper used on FASHION’s behalf, St. Joseph Communications will contribute to the planting of a tree through GrandTrees.
60 SECONDS TO PLUMPER SKIN. * with vegetable squalane CLARINS.COM New Hydra-Essentiel [HA2] Hydrating and plumping triple power: a duo of hyaluronic acids + organic leaf of life extract. Our duo of hyaluronic acids instantly plumps and hydrates skin. Clarins exclusive organic leaf of life extract boosts your skin’s natural hyaluronic acid levels. - By day: plumps and hydrates. - By night: compensates for skin’s water loss. *Consumer test - Day cream 107 women after 60 seconds - Night cream 110 women after 60 seconds.
PHOTOGRAPHY BY LAWRENCE CORTEZ. STYLING BY GEORGE ANTONOPOULOS. HAIR, KRISTJAN HAYDEN FOR CADRE ARTIST MANAGEMENT. MAKEUP, SABRINA RINALDI FOR P1M.CA. BLAZER AND PANTS, PRICES UPON REQUEST, SHOES, $1,790, AND NECKLACE, $1,930, LOUIS VUITTON. RINGS, MORRA’S OWN. IF ANYONE HAS BEEN ABLE to demonstrate the power of clothing, it’s our cover star, Brit actor Jodie Turner-Smith. Her career was FOLFNLQJ DORQJ MXVW QH DǟHU 3KDUUHOO :LOOLDPV during a chance meeting, suggested she give modelling a try. That move led her to acting, and roles in the Anne Boleyn miniseries and OPV Queen & Slim and White Noise followed. But as fashion news director Annika Lautens ZULWHV LQ ŝ6RQLF %ORRPŞ SDJH ʛ LW ZDV WKH daring and dazzling looks Turner-Smith served up last August at the Venice International Film Festival that grabbed global headlines. From her bedazzled black Gucci to her curvecruising denim Balmain to her sheer organza Casablanca, Turner-Smith had cemented her status as a red-carpet icon by the end of the festival. The stylists who helped her dress for the event were the Los Angeles team of :D\PDQ 0LFDK WKRXJK ZH OHDUQHG DW RXU cover shoot in London that she has no shortage of her own opinions. The enthusiasm with which Turner-Smith rocked the most out-there ORRNVřLQFOXGLQJ D EXEEOHIULQJHG *XFFL KHDGSLHFHřZDV FOHDU IURP WKH UVW VKXWWHU FOLFN One of the biggest forces behind today’s viral red-carpet moments is a Canadian named %URRNH :DOO %RUQ LQ 7RURQWR DQG UDLVHG LQ 9DQFRXYHU :DOO PRYHG WR (QJODQG EHIRUH VHWtling in New York, where she helped grow the career of KDLU OHJHQG 2ULEH 7KDW ZDV KHU UVW VWHS WRZDUG HYHQWXDOO\ FUHDWLQJ 7KH :DOO *URXS DQ DJHQF\ WKDW KDV RƫFHV LQ 1HZ <RUN /RQGRQ /RV $QJHOHV DQG 3DULV DQG UHSUHVHQWV VRPH RI WKH PRVW LQXHQWLDO KDLUVW\OLVWV PDNHXS DUWLVWV DQG manicurists. She speaks to Lautens about what propelled KHU VXFFHVV LQ ŝ*HW WR .QRZŞ SDJH ʕʛ :H KDYH WKUHH QHZ FROXPQV GHEXWLQJ WKLV LVVXH ,Q $VN $QQLND SDJH ʖʗ /DXWHQV VSRWOLJKWV RQH RI WKH VHDVRQśV must-have pieces and breaks down ways to wear it. First on her agenda is a key accessory for spring: opera gloves. ,Q '1$ SDJH ʕʚ ZH GLYH LQWR -HQLD .LPśV 6RYLHW.RUHDQ background and how it melds with her life in Tashkent, Uzbekistan, to inspire her label, J.Kim. Stay tuned for more such explorations on how heritage impacts creativity in future issues. And our regular watch coverage will now include a look at one watch lover’s relationship with their IDYRXULWH WLPHSLHFH )RU WKH UVW 0\ :DWFK SDJH ʖʕ Globe and Mail columnist Nolan Bryant details his love for two very special Cartiers, one of which belonged to his late friend, society hairdresser Robert Gage. 2I FRXUVH \RXśOO VWLOO QG VRPH RI \RXU DQG P\ IDYRXULWH FROXPQV LQ WKHVH SDJHV :KLOH , GRQśW KDYH VXSHUFXUO\ KDLU , KDYH OHDUQHG VR PXFK IURP UHDGLQJ 7H[WXUH 7DON SDJH ʘʗ since it was created by beauty director Natasha Boateng back LQ ʕʓʕʓ ,Q WKLV LVVXH VKH VSHDNV WR IRXU &DQDGLDQV DERXW their locs (which, I discovered, should never be referred to DV ŝGUHDGVŞ RU ŝGUHDGORFNVŞ $QG , DP DOZD\V IDVFLQDWHG E\ WKH FROOHFWRUV ZH SUROHřIRXUIRRWWDOO SODWIRUPVKRH DGGLFW 5HJDQ 9DVTXH] LQFOXGHG ŝ/Rǟ\ /LYLQJŞ SDJH ʛ +HU SRVLWLYLW\ LV DEVROXWHO\ LQIHFWLRXVřOHWśV KRSH WKDW that’s D YLUXV WKDW VSUHDGV Bernadette Morra, Editor-in-Chief @bernadettemorra [email protected] FASHION EDITOR'S LETTER 20 MARCH 2023
TEXT BY ANNIKA LAUTENS. PHOTOGRAPHY VIA IMAXTREE.COM. EARRINGS, $990, TOM FORD. HOOP DREAMS Are your ears burning? You’d think Bella Hadid’s certainly would be, given the surreal size of these hoops from Tom Ford’s Spring 2023 collection. But hidden behind these enormous earrings are hooks that rest on the top of your ears to reduce the impact of the weight. Their base is made from soft polymer and sequins, though, so despite the fact they’re the size of a croissant, they’re as light as puff pastry. Music to our ears, indeed. P E O P L E • P I E C E S • P E R S P E C T I V E S
FURP WKH FUHDWLYH JHQLXV RI 6LOYLD 9HQWXULQL )HQGL FRPHV )HQGLśV UVWHYHU FROOHFWLRQ of home decor and lifestyle accessories. Gather your loved ones for an evening of luxe dining with neutral homeware items enlivened by vibrant yellows, powdery pinks, leafy greens and reimagined Roman motifs in galvanic gold. Then release your inner competitive spirit and elevate family game nights with the crème de la crème of table JDPHVřIURP EDFNJDPPRQ WR GRPLQRHVřIXOO RI )HQGL GHVLJQ '1$ AFendiAffair VOILA! NEWS 24 MARCH 2023
Dark and Stormy Instead of running from the rain this spring, embrace it with the new collaboration between Kei Ninomiya and Hunter. In honour of the Noir Kei Ninomiya Spring 2023 collection, the Japanese designer (and protégé of Comme des Garçons’s Rei Kawakubo) gave a goth transformation to the British brand by dousing its signature wellies in black and accenting them with BDSM-inspired chains. These boots are perfect for anyone looking to participate in the goth-aissance; we won’t blame you if you don’t save them for a rainy day. TEXT BY LAUREN KNOWLES. PHOTOGRAPHY: (THIS PAGE) WUXLY COURTESY OF WUXLY; HUNTER COURTESY OF COMME DES GARÇONS; OLIVE VIA INSTAGRAM/@THEBIONICBABE; (OPPOSITE PAGE) FENDI COURTESY OF FENDI. PURPLE RAIN If you’re looking to embrace a new hue (or a new you!) this year, may we suggest pastel purple, as seen here on Wuxly’s newest outerwear offering, the “Riverside Trench”? Besides being a lesson in dopamine dressing, the Canadian brand’s rain jacket is made from postconsumer plastic bottles and promises to keep you dry well into the spring season. Expect to be singing Taylor Swift’s “Lavender Haze” in no time. T KI TOK H O T TAKE: @THEBIONICBABE Fusing functionality with fashion, TikTok’s Laiken Olive (@thebionicbabe) is the multihyphenate amputee going viral for their prosthetic-arm artwork and eclectic style. Whether they’re pairing their Strawberry Shortcake cosplay with a pink-frosted-cakeinspired bionic-arm cover or styling pre-loved clothing with matching arm covers in their Second Hand Fashion series (pun intended, they assure their 291K followers!), creativity and humour abound on this TikToker’s profile—but not without important commentary and education on limb-difference awareness woven throughout. NEWS VOILA! MARCH 2023 25
PHOTOGRAPHY: MAIN BY MARIE-HELENE GAGNÉ; MAINVILLE BY PASCAL FERRARIS. NORTHERN EXPOSURE When she first launched her millinery brand, Heirloom Hats, in 2015, Montreal’s Samantha-Tara Mainville was also working as a pharmacy assistant—a job she’d held for over a decade. Throughout this experience, she’d often travel to remote locales to provide medical care, and it was during a trip to a Cree community called Mistissini that Mainville picked up a creative skill during her downtime. “I learned how to embroider at a community centre with local elders,” she says, adding that “when it’s –50º outdoors, you’re looking for activities to do inside.” But from this wintry-isolation activity, Les Madeleines—Mainville’s collection of oneoff embroidered berets—was born. Each design finds its graceful form on a headshaped wooden hat block, dozens of which are on display in the brand’s peppy boutique in Montreal’s Mile-Ex neighbourhood. IT’S JUST AN EXPRESSION Mainville says it took time to “take this medium and figure out how [she] would use it,” adding that she wanted to ensure that her handiwork wasn’t derivative of, or appropriating, Indigenous designs. In addition to being a way for the designer to add bright pops to her hat repertoire (“My language is colour,” she notes), Les Madeleines is a barometer for the #currentmood. “While I was making the first pieces, I was pondering how I was feeling,” she recalls. “It was during Trump’s run for the presidency, and everything was kind of negative.” The name of the collection is derived from the French expression “pleurer comme une madeleine,” which means “to cry like Mary Magdalene.” Mainville says the sorrowful moniker sprang from “the state of things and the disbelief people had about Trump becoming president; it just felt like gloom.” But the latest batches of Les Madeleines are decidedly more upbeat, she says, pointing to cheerful motifs like stars and flowers. FINDING HERSELF IN STITCHES “My starting point is colour,” Mainville divulges about how she crafts her characters from a cache of vintage embroidery threads. “I group the colours together and pick four or five per hat. The colours ‘speak’ to me and are translated in the faces.” After a beret is hand-blocked to give it its sculptural shape and the 24-hour drying period is complete, it takes Mainville a day to finish the embroidery. The pieces are sold with an elastic so wearers can position them anywhere on their head with confidence. Heirloom Hats founder Samantha-Tara Mainville on the emotive energy of embroidery. By ODESSA PALOMA PARKER Thread Counts DESIGNER Samantha-Tara Mainville (Heirloom Hats) HOME BASE Montreal ITEMS One-of-a-kind hand-blocked and hand-embroidered berets VOILA! DETAILS 26 MARCH 2023
Acontemporary spin on folk costumes envisioned from her Soviet-Korean background is the defining idea behind designer Jenia Kim’s brand, J.Kim. “I imagine that when Koreans arrived in Uzbekistan, they might have had a chance to create such costumes but only had Uzbek fabrics at hand,” writes Kim in a press kit, referring to a migration that happened between WKH ODWH ʔ WK DQG HDUO\ ʕʓWK FHQWXULHV And while this wasn’t the case for her Korean grandparents, whose exact date of arrival is still unknown, the Tashkent-based talent has made it her personal mission to reimagine this history through her work. .LP LV RQH RI ʘʓʓʓʓʓ .RU\R sarams, a group of Korean immigrants who live in former Soviet Union states. “The Korean is something innate that I have in my DNA, and the Uzbek is something I learned,” she shares. As such, every collection Kim has worked RQ VLQFH ODXQFKLQJ -.LP LQ ʕʓʔʗ KDV been dedicated to exploring her unusual heritage. The result is a fashionable fusion of two opposing visual languages expertly blended in streetwear silhouettes with artisanal touches, which can be seen on It girls like Kylie Jenner and Spanish singer Rosalía. But with such a rich history to pull from, how does Kim curate this underrepresented culture? Here, she takes us inside her inspiration and spotlights WKH JXUHV ZKR KDYH VKDSHG KHU VHQVH of style. Jenia Kim breaks down how her family ties impact her designs. By ANNIKA LAUTENS TheKoryo-saramConnection PEARLY KINGS & QUEENS “While they’re not directly part of my heritage, England’s ‘Pearlies’—people who wear clothes with pearl buttons to support charitable causes—inspire me as a way to give noble purpose to clothing.” TASHKENT MARKETS “Knots are a major visual reference in my work, so I love seeing the way store owners tie large bundles of goods. I’m also inspired by Soviet-era clothing and people-watching. Everybody there is a character.” TRADITIONAL CRAFTS “These artisans create art for art’s sake, not to make a living. I can’t help thinking that in today’s automated world, the soul is lost when the process is mechanized.” UZBEK STREET STYLE “Women in Uzbekistan dress to impress. They make every outfit a sight to behold, layering as many cuts, patterns, colours and materials as possible.” PHOTOGRAPHY: COURTESY OF JENIA KIM; KIM BY SASHA MUNAEV. Jenia Kim J K. mi Spr ni g 2023 MARCH 2023 27 DNA VOILA!
CONGRATULATIONS ON WINNING THE VANGUARD AWARD AT LAST YEAR’S CANADIAN ARTS & FASHION AWARDS [CAFA]! WHAT DOES THIS ACHIEVEMENT MEAN TO YOU? “It means a lot. I’m Canadian, so being recognized in my place of birth and homeland is such an honour.” LET’S START AT THE BEGINNING. YOU WERE BORN IN TORONTO AND RAISED IN VANCOUVER, AND NOW YOU LIVE IN NEW YORK. HOW HAVE THOSE TWO CANADIAN CITIES INFLUENCED YOUR FASHION AND BEAUTY JOURNEY? “I’ve always loved pretty things, whether they’re in nature, fashion or beauty. And when \RXśUH VXUURXQGHG E\ EHDXW\řOLNH , ZDV JURZLQJ XS LQ %ULWLVK &ROXPELDř\RXU H\H EHFRPHV YHU\ GHYHORSHGŞ YOU STARTED YOUR CAREER WORKING WITH FAMOUS HAIRSTYLISTS LIKE ORIBE CANALES AND JOHN FRIEDA. WHAT SPARKED THE IDEA FOR THE WALL GROUP? “I saw a demand for another level of representation for that type of talent. There needed to be more people surrounding these artists with a vision of how far they could go. The most famous hair and PDNHXS VW\OLVWV ZHUH UHSUHVHQWHG E\ SKRWR DJHQFLHV RU Trust the founder and CEO of The Wall Group to know the secret to a viral red-carpet moment. After all, Brooke Wall represents the artists responsible for putting Florence Pugh in her “revenge dress” for the 2022 Venice International Film Festival and for Kristen Stewart wearing shorts to the 2022 Oscars. Below, the Canadian-born creative talks about her roster of international hair and makeup artists and stylists and how Vancouver trained her eye to see beauty everywhere. Brooke Wall GET TO KNOW something similar at the time. But they required legal representation and good business people around them to better understand the arc of their careers if they wanted to develop their own beauty lines. And those resources GLGQśW H[LVW LQ WKH śʓVŞ DID YOU ANTICIPATE HOW BIG THE STYLING, HAIR AND MAKEUP INDUSTRY WOULD BECOME? “I did, EHFDXVH ZKHQ , VWDUWHG ZRUNLQJ ZLWK SHRSOH OLNH -RKQ Frieda, Oribe Canales, Laura Mercier and Kevyn Aucoin, WKHUH ZRXOG EH OLNH ʕʘ GLƨHUHQW MREV DYDLODEOH EXW YHU\ few individuals who could perform at such a high level. So I could see that they would become a more valuable commodity in the future.” HOW DO YOU DECIDE WHICH ARTISTS TO TAKE ON, AND HAVE THE CRITERIA CHANGED SINCE 2000, WHEN YOU FOUNDED THE WALL GROUP? VOILA! PROFILE 28 MARCH 2023
“They have changed slightly with the advent of social media. You must now be good in front of the camera and draw an audience. But certain things haven’t changed. When we interview artists, we’re looking at their ability DQG SHUVRQDOLW\řZKHUH GLG WKH\ OHDUQ WKHLU FUDǟ KDYH they studied the history of beauty and can they create ORRNV IURP GLƨHUHQW JHQUHV" 7KH OLVW JRHV RQŞ HAS SOCIAL MEDIA CHANGED THE WAY THESE CREATIVES APPROACH THEIR PROFESSION? “I don’t think it’s changed this; there’s just more pressure to perform, because, through social media, more people will see their work. Everyone wants to develop their brand, so they’re more cognizant of consistency and ZKLFK ORRNV ZLOO EHFRPH UHFRJQL]DEOHŞ SO WHAT SEPARATES A GOOD RED-CARPET LOOK FROM A GREAT ONE? “It’s almost like a perfect storm. >/DXJKV@ 0DQ\ GLƨHUHQW HOHPHQWV KDYH WR FRPH WRJHWKHU for it to be a great moment. Our stylists are keenly aware of who they’re working with and the story that that individual needs to tell on the red carpet. If you can do that consistently, you can win frequently. Just don’t ask me to SLFN IDYRXULWHVŞ YOU WORE ERDEM TO THE CAFA AWARDS CEREMONY. HOW WOULD YOU DESCRIBE YOUR STYLE WHEN YOU’RE NOT ON A RED CARPET? “I would describe my style as casual formal with a twist of &DQDGLDQřEHFDXVH , GR ORYH D DQQHO VKLUW >/DXJKV@ , think that when you’re in the industry and you deal with red carpets and events daily, you don’t have an interest in VSHQGLQJ WLPH GLJJLQJ WKURXJK D PLOOLRQ GLƨHUHQW ORRNV You know who you are, what you’re comfortable with and PH KRZ WR SUHVHQW WKH EHVW YHUVLRQ RI \RXUVHOIŞ OTOGRAPHY: MAIN COURTESY OF BROOKE WALL; PUGH AND STEWART VIA GETTY. Kristen Stewart Florence Pugh PROFILE VOILA! MARCH 2023 29
VOILA! MASTER CLASS 30 MARCH 2023 J E W E L L E R Y 1 0 1 M Y S TI CI S M By CLARA Y OUNG The first sign that something was up happened to me a week ago, when a close friend of mine, let’s call him Jean, cornered me early on at a party, well before the cocktails had kicked in, and whispered, “I just had my cards read.” My eyebrows must have moonshot. Jean is no New Ager; he’s an Ivy League-educated neurologist and rigorously rational in every decision he makes. “You had a tarot card reading?” He cringed. “I know, I know… But she was, well, so incredibly spot-on!” And on the strength of that spot-on-ness, Jean is leaving his well-paid job and fabulous Paris apartment and moving to Ohio. Ohio. With a woman he only met two months ago. “Well, why not?” I thought. People make crazy choices all the time, for even crazier reasons. Me, for example. Too often, in fact. And too embarrassing to get into here. The next morning, a copy of The Tarot of Leonora Carrington (Fulgur Press) showed up in my mailbox. Just the book—not wrapped, not in an envelope and without an accompanying letter or card, just a pink Post-it fixed to the page on which Carrington’s phantasmagorical painting of the sun tarot card had been reproduced. Carrington (1917–2011), a celebrated British-Mexican painter and novelist, a lover of Max Ernst, an asylum inmate, an early proponent of women’s liberation and the last of the surrealists, painted her tarot deck in the 1950s but kept it a secret. It was only discovered about five years ago. The images are astonishingly beautiful. But where did the book come from? I called Jean. He swore it wasn’t from him. But he did find its sudden appearance portentous. 18 karat yellow and white gold, diamond, mother-of-pearl and onyx earrings, $27,100, Dior 18 karat gold, motherof-pearl, colour-change garnet, sapphire and diamond necklace, $26,700, Sorellina Gold plated brass necklace, $80, BaubleBar
MASTER CLASS VOILA! MARCH 2023 31 Then, that afternoon, walking in the Marais, I ducked into Dover Street Little Market to get out of a sudden downpour and found myself face to face with a display of “magical cards” and zines from Fiddler’s Green (“Art & Magic for Tea-Drinking Anarchists, Convivial Conjurors & Closeted Optimists”). The zines had titles like “Exploding the Tangerine: A Shy Person’s Guide to Battle Magic” and “The Riddle of the Sphinx: The Artist’s Path and the Secrets of Immortality.” And perusing them closely was, of all people, Violaine, an old friend whom I hadn’t seen in years. Like Jean, Violaine is a scientist, steadfastly sensible and—judging by the stunning rectangular pendant swinging from her neck, on which a yellow-gold dog and a wolf howled at a gold, sapphire and black-diamond moon in a mother-of-pearl sky—a recent convert to the power of tarot. “It’s La Luna, the moon card, from Sorellina,” she said, blushing. “You see the little gold lobster? Coming out of the water? It symbolizes the early stages of unfolding consciousness.” Again, my brows launched moonward. Violaine laughed. “It was a gift and I love it; it’s supposed to help guide me on my journey,” she said, air quoting the last word. “And I need all the help I can get.” Who doesn’t? The world is decidedly difficult to fathom at the best of times, but especially these days, right? Misinformed, disinformed, over-informed, wary, worried, wearied—it’s no wonder people like Jean and Violaine are looking for a little more magic in their lives. For a world filled with secret connections and resonances. A world that is, in the words of Max Weber—the sociologist who coined the term “disenchantment” (German: Entzauberung) to describe the defining character of our modern, secular and bureaucratic society—“a great enchanted garden.” And, it turns out, believing in the non-rational isn’t always non-rational. Luck-enhancing superstitions have been shown to relieve anxieties about the unknown. They give people a sense of control and empowerment. They improve performance and increase self-confidence—think of the rituals you see professional athletes and actors go through. Just saying “Break a leg,” crossing one’s fingers or knocking on wood can apparently increase your motor dexterity, strengthen your memory or help you master upcoming tasks—in short, give you that extra little magic boost you need. This explains why esoterica is everywhere—and nowhere more so than in the jewellery world. Which makes perfect sense: talismans, lucky charms, icons, miracle medallions, worry beads—humans have always associated adornment with fate and divination. SO, LET’S GET SOME ON Tarot-inspired works abound. At the head of the pack is the aforementioned Sorellina, a jewellery design house founded by sisters Nicole and Kim Carosella in NYC. Their colourful tarot pendants with diamonds are among their hottest—and most expensive—items. For those, like myself, less fortunate (or less fortuned), websites like Etsy have more affordable versions. A couple of my favourites are the tarot amulets by Selenichast and The Empress Tarot Card by BaubleBar—they’re lovely to look at and pack just as much cartomancy power but at 1/100th of the price. Just as powerful: Sterling Forever’s very reasonably priced evileye amulet necklace in 14-karat gold. Montreal label Sofia Zakia’s High Priestess Tarot Card Necklace features engraved tiles mixing original drawings by designer Sofia Ajram with classical decks by Jean Francois Alliette and Brian Williams. The reverse side of each card portrays the sun and waxing and waning moons. They are pricier than those mentioned in the last paragraph but still well within the range of “reasonable.” Besides, as it says on the website, the High Priestess “encourages wisdom, intuition, and a connection to a Higher Power which guards the unconscious. She is a kind, merciful teacher, here to connect you with your intuition and Higher Self to lead you on the journey of your life.” That stuff doesn’t come cheap. If money is less of an object, go big. Christian Dior famously consulted tarot cards before each runway show, and the cards continue to inspire the house. Dior creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri has been incorporating tarot into her creations since her first collection for Spring 2017. Meanwhile, Victoire de Castellane for Dior Joaillerie has long drawn inspiration from astrology for many of her designs and especially from the divinatory charms so dear to the late couturier himself, especially his lucky star, golden sun and shining crescent moon. The eight-pointed wind rose, part of the Rose des Vents haute-joaillerie collection, does triple protection duty for its bearer by combining three of Monsieur Dior’s favourite lucky charms: the number eight, the rose and the star. The fact that his luck ran out when he died suddenly at age 52 of a heart attack might call into doubt the efficacy of those charms, but I’ll leave that to you to judge. Sterling silver and white rhodium plated necklace, $390, Tom Wood Gold plated brass, abalone and cubic zirconia necklace, $145, Tai 14 karat gold necklace, $1,090, Sofia Zakia
LoveatFirstSight Nolan Bryant’s long-coveted watches, the Cartier Vendôme (left) and Tank Louis Cartier When people think about collecting watches, &DUWLHU LVQśW XVXDOO\ WKH UVW QDPH WKDW FRPHV WR PLQG 7KH EUDQG LV ZHOO NQRZQ DV D MHZHOOHU EXW LI \RX GHOYH LQWR LWV KLVWRU\ LWśV FOHDU WKDW &DUWLHU ZDV TXLWH WKH WLPHSLHFH LQQRYDWRUřMXVW ORRN DW LWV 6DQWRV ZDWFK ZKLFK ZDV GHVLJQHG VSHFLFDOO\ IRU HDUO\ DYLDWRUV VR WKH\ FRXOG FKHFN WKH WLPH HDVLO\ LQVWHDG RI KDYLQJ WR UHDFK IRU D SRFNHW ZDWFK , UHPHPEHU JRLQJ LQWR WKH &DUWLHU ERXWLTXH RQ %ORRU 6WUHHW LQ 7RURQWR ZKHQ , ZDV D NLG DQG IDOOLQJ LQ ORYH ZLWK LWV ZDWFKHV 7KHUH LV VWUHQJWK LQ WKHLU OLQHV DQG GHVLJQ DV ZHOO DV DQ XQGHQLDEOH IHHOLQJ RI WLPHOHVVQHVV $W WKH WRS RI P\ ZLVK OLVW ZDV D 7DQN /RXLV &DUWLHU ,WśV VRPHWKLQJ , DVVRFLDWH ZLWK FODVVLF GHVLJQ DQG , IHHO D UHDO FRQQHFWLRQ WR LWV FRGHVffl WKH VLJQDWXUH ORRN RI LWV GLDOV WKH EOXHVWHHO KDQGV DQG WKH FDERFKRQ JHPVWRQH RQ WKH FURZQ IRU H[DPSOH , WULHG RQ VHYHUDO RYHU WKH \HDUV DQG HYHQWXDOO\ NQHZ H[DFWO\ ZKLFK YHUVLRQ , ZDQWHGffl ʔʛNDUDW JROG ZLWK D 3DULV GLDOřD GLDO PDGH LQ 3DULV EHIRUH &DUWLHU PRYHG LWV ZRUNVKRSV WR 6ZLW]HUODQGřDQG D PHFKDQLFDO PRYHPHQW WKDW QHHGV WR EH KDQGZRXQG 7KDW ODVW HOHPHQW PDWWHUHG EHFDXVH , OLNH WKH LGHD RI LQWHUDFWLQJ ZLWK P\ ZDWFK ZKHQ ,śP ZLQGLQJ LWff ,śP LQ GLDORJXH ZLWK WKH SLHFH HYHU\ WLPH , SODFH LW RQ P\ ZULVW :LWK DOO WKDW LQ PLQG LW ZDV FOHDU WKDW ZKDW , UHDOO\ ZDQWHG ZDV D YLQWDJH PLGśʚʓV 7DQN /RXLV &DUWLHU DQG LW ZDV P\ IULHQG WKH ODWH VRFLHW\ KDLUGUHVVHU 5REHUW *DJH ZKR KHOSHG PH JHW WKH ZDWFK , GUHDPHG RI RZQLQJ +H KDG D IULHQG ZKR ZDV D GHDOHU LQ YLQWDJH ZDWFKHV DQG MHZHOOHU\ DQG KDG KHOSHG KLP ZLWK KLV RZQ &DUWLHU UHSDLULQJ LW DV QHHGHG , ZDV ʕʖ RU ʕʗ DW WKH WLPH DQG WKH GHDOHU VKRZHG PH SLHFHV WKDW KH IHOW ZHUH EHWWHU VWDUWHU ZDWFKHV +H GLGQśW VKRZ PH WKH RQH , ZDQWHG ULJKW DZD\ff , WKLQN LW ZDV EHFDXVH KH ZDV PDNLQJ VXUH , ZDV UHDG\ WR FRPPLW WR LW ,W ZDV D ELJ H[SHQGLWXUH EXW ZKHQ \RXśUH D PDQ ZKR ORYHV FODVVLF VW\OH DQG \RX GRQśW KDYH WKDW Two Timing Nolan Bryant, society columnist for The Globe and Mail, discusses his treasured pair of timepieces. As told to LAURIE BROOKINS PHOTOGRAPHY: (THIS PAGE) COURTESY OF NOLAN BRYANT. 32 MARCH 2023 VOILA! MY WATCH
many jewellery pieces to wear, a watch can elevate your look. The piece I’d been seeking was in his collection. The moment I put it on, I knew it was the exact watch I’d been thinking about all those years. It also has a gold deployant buckle, which LV WKH PRVW ZRQGHUIXO LQYHQWLRQř\RX FDQ VOLS WKH ZDWFK RQ DQG Rƨ RU DGMXVW LWV VL]H ZLWKRXW IXOO\ XQIDVWHQLQJ WKH VWUDS You have to pay a bit extra for it, but you’ll never regret it. )URP WKH UVW PRPHQW , PHW 5REHUW , DGPLUHG KLV &DUWLHU D \HOORZJROG 9HQG³PH DOVR IURP WKH ʔʚʓV +H ZDV D YHU\ special person and had a remarkable career travelling around WKH ZRUOG GRLQJ KDLU IRU VRPH SUHWW\ IDPRXV SHRSOHřD OLVW WKDW LQFOXGHG /HH 5DG]LZLOO ZKR ZDV DQ LGRO RI PLQH 'LDQH .HDWRQ DQG 7RP &UXLVH 5REHUW EHOLHYHG LQ D NLQG RI JODPRXU and had a view of the world that I connected with, and he was excited by a young person who cared about the past and GHVLJQ DQG VRFLDO VWXƨ 5REHUW XVHG WR WDNH KLV ZDWFK Rƨ DQG SXW LW RQ KLV NLWFKHQ LVODQG DQG , ZRXOG SLFN LW XS DQG DGPLUH LW +LV &DUWLHU Vendôme was an unusual watch: an automatic with a round stepped case, a Paris dial and a sweeping second hand, which is rarely seen in that style. But he was an unusual person, so LW VHHPHG WWLQJ $ǟHU ,śG ERXJKW P\ 7DQN KH VDLG ŝ1RZ you have your Tank, and then you’ll have mine one day, too.” I considered him both a close friend and a mentor, and he VDLG LW LQ MXVW WKLV ORYHO\ ZD\ $QG WKHQ LQ ʕʓʔʚ 5REHUW GLHG very suddenly of a massive heart attack. I later reached out to the person who was handling his estate and mentioned that he’d said I could have his watch. 8QIRUWXQDWHO\ 5REHUW ZDV QRW RQH IRU HVWDWH SODQQLQJ DQG that’s when I learned the watch was going to auction with many of his other possessions the following week. It was too late to pull it, of course, and I had to scramble a little, but I was successful in acquiring it at that auction. Today, these two watches are part of my everyday life. My Tank is currently on a glossy-black alligator strap, though it’s also been on dark-green and ruddy-brown crocodile straps. I KDYH DOO P\ VWUDSV PDGH DW 6FDUOHWW D 3DULV UP WKDW VSHFLDOL]HV LQ ZRQGHUIXO FRORXUV DQG EHDXWLIXO OHDWKHUV $QG EHFDXVH , wear a suit or a tuxedo for work most evenings, both watches are perfect for that. Ultimately, two feels like enough; I’m their guardian, and I like to have them with me because they’re so special to me. I never tire of looking at them. GRAND SEIKO From Grand Seiko’s aptly named Elegance Collection, the three-hand SBGW283 (price upon request, at grand-seiko. com) showcases a pale-blue dial inspired by the sky above Japan’s Mount Iwate in the early days of summer and is housed in a 37.3-millimetre steel case. FourUltra-ClassicTimepieces toPutonYourWishList Seeking a timeless watch? This quartet blends precision with eternally elegant details. CARTIER The latest Tank Louis Cartier ($16,400, at Cartier, Toronto) has been updated with a larger rose-gold case, measuring 33.7 millimetres by 25.5 millimetres, a graphic dial treatment in grey with golden-finish steel hands and a signature sapphire cabochon crown. BREGUET The self-winding Classique Calendrier ($51,900, at breguet.com) by Breguet highlights the day, date and phases and age of the moon above an off-centre chapter ring on a hand-engraved dial in a 39-millimetre case of 18-karat red gold. PATEK PHILIPPE The newest Twenty~4 (price upon request, at patek. com) from Patek Philippe features an olive-green sunburst dial under gold applied numerals in a stainless-steel case that’s embellished with 160 diamonds totalling .77 carats. MARCH 2023 33 MY WATCH VOILA!
In a new column, fashion news director Annika Lautens solves your clothing conundrums and suggests a few styling tricks along the way. I CONFESS THAT I’M A FORMER GLOVES HATER. Every morning before school, my mother would beg and plead with me to put them on, and every morning, I’d meet her with a resounding “No!” It took \HDUV RI P\ QJHUV YHUJLQJ RQ EHLQJ IURVWELWWHQ EHIRUH , JDYH LQ DQG UHDOized she might be onto something. Fast-forward a few years (OK, more than a few!) and long gloves have KDG D JURZQXS PDNHRYHU 'HPQD UVW GUHDPHG XS PLWW PDQLD DW WKH 9HWHPHQWV )DOO ʕʓʔʛ VKRZ EHIRUH PDNLQJ WKH DFFHVVRU\ D PDLQVWD\ DW %DOHQFLDJD ZKHUH KHśV EHHQ WKH FUHDWLYH GLUHFWRU VLQFH ʕʓʔʘ +H ZRUNHG IRU ERWK EUDQGV XQWLO ʕʓʔ 7ZR \HDUV ODWHU WKH SDQGHPLF SURPRWHG JORYHVřDOEHLW ODWH[ QRW OHDWKHU RQHVřDV SHUVRQDO SURWHFWLYH HTXLSPHQW which sparked a brightly-coloured-hand-covering trend on the runways WKDW ZDV NQRZQ DV ŝVXUJLFDO JORYH FRXWXUHŞ $QG VRRQ DǟHU Bridgerton broke the internet and the renaissance of Regency-era looks commenced. But despite the countless celebs (Kim Kardashian, Dua Lipa, Lizzo, etc.) who have since rocked gloves on the red carpet and the designer brands (Chanel, Dior, Louis Vuitton Men’s, etc.) that have promoted them on the runway, it’s taken a while for the general public to embrace the accessory as a fashion statement. Why? Admittedly, this is a hard ORRN WR SXOO Rƨ :KHQ LWśV GRQH ZHOO \RX ORRN OLNH D FKDUDFWHU IURP Euphoria, but when it’s done wrong, you look like a discount debutante. 6R IRU DQ\RQH ORRNLQJ WR DYRLG D PDMRU IDVKLRQ IDX[ SDV ,śYH EURNHQ GRZQ KRZ WR PDNH WKLV RSHUD DFFHVVRU\ PRUH DFFHVVLEOH 7UXVW PH \RXř OLNH P\ IRUPHU DQG VWXEERUQ VHOIřZLOO WKDQN PH ODWHU Glove Affair GLOVES ARE ALL OVER THE RUNWAYS, RED CARPETS AND SOCIAL MEDIA, BUT HOW DO YOU WEAR THEM IRL? VOILA! ASK ANNIKA 34 MARCH 2023
ARM CANDY Get your glove game on with these playful picks. Dries Van Noten at Ssense, $410 Uncuffed Leather, $265 Collina Strada, $175 Simone Rocha at Net-a-Porter, $1,120 COLOUR POP I know how easy it is to wear only black (hello, I work in the fashion industry!), but to be honest, it’s a little basic. So, if you’d like to elevate your midnight-hour attire, try a pop of colour. I recommend choosing a warmer hue, like pink, red or orange, to add some oomph WR \RXU RXWW SHORT SUPPLY I love a good short sleeve, but since I live in Canada, most of my armexposing clothing hibernates until June. So, to get the most out of your closet, marry one of your pieces with a pair of neutral long gloves. You’ll be warm enough to survive the early days of spring but cool enough (pun intended!) to blend in with the chicest of crowds. COLD SHOULDER Does anything ever truly go out of style? Not according to Gen Z TikTok creators who are bringing <ʕ. DQG ʕʓʔʓ WUHQGV EDFN WR OLIH If it helps, think of over-the-elbow opera gloves worn with sleeveless tops DV ʕʓʕʖśV YHUVLRQ RI WKH FROGVKRXOGHU FXWRXWřMXVW PRUH UHQHG %RQXV points if your arm accoutrements match the rest of your ensemble. PHOTOGRAPHY: (THIS PAGE) STREET STYLE VIA IMAXTREE.COM; (OPPOSITE PAGE) MAIN BY BJARNE X TAKATA/VIA TRUNK ARCHIVE. ASK ANNIKA VOILA! MARCH 2023 35
STYLE TIP Whether new or vintage, a great racer jacket can make an outfit with minimal effort. Get up to speed with fashion’s latest obsession. On Your Mark VOILA! MERCH
EDITOR: IVY TANG. PHOTOGRAPHY: MAIN AND RUNWAY VIA IMAXTREE.COM. A Better Mistake at Farfetch, $295 Tarin Thomas, $510 TAG Heuer, $8,800 Theophilio, $1,675 Stella McCartney, $3,745 Dior, $1,085 Ferrari Louis Vuitton Men’s Diesel, $1,395 House of Sunny, $340 Rhude at Farfetch, $1,180 MERCH VOILA! MARCH 2023 37
STYLE TIP Keep the light and lively vibe going by mixing pink with pastels and other light hues. Live your best Barbie life by thinking pink and pretty. Doll Check Brandon Maxwell Pre-Spring 2023 VOILA! MERCH
Chanel, price upon request Celine by Hedi Slimane, $620 Aldo, $200 Moschino, $865 Kate Spade, $265 Emmanuelle Khanh, $625 Acne Studios, $290 Dior Men, $2,700 Louis Vuitton Men’s, $14,200 EDITOR: IVY TANG. PHOTOGRAPHY: MAIN VIA IMAXTREE.COM. MERCH VOILA! MARCH 2023 39
The classic pattern is back in the limelight—this time with an edge. P I N S T R A I G H T VOILA! MERCH 40 MARCH 2023
Monse Luar Coperni Dries Van Noten Menswear Mowalola The Frankie Shop, $185 By Far, $600 Versace, $2,900 Black & Brown London, $150 The Frankie Shop, $270 Agmes, $1,940 Poppy Lissiman, $95 EDITOR: IVY TANG. PHOTOGRAPHY: MAIN BY CHRISTIAN VIERIG VIA GETTY; RUNWAY VIA IMAXTREE.COM. STYLE TIP Silver accessories add a cool factor to the traditionally preppy look. MERCH VOILA! MARCH 2023 41
TEXT BY NATASHA BOATENG. PHOTOGRAPHY VIA IMAXTREE.COM. Tom Ford Spring 2023 MANE ATTRACTION We asked two stylists for their best tips when it comes to addressing common challenges—from boosting fine, limp hair to repairing chemically scorched strands— across the hair-type spectrum. (SEE PAGE 48.) H A I R • S K I N • E Y E S • L I P S • N A I L S • E T C .
Body Boost Exfoliating is key when it comes to ridding the outer layer of the skin of buildup and dead skin cells, revealing the softer, brighter, healthier skin beneath. But it’s not just great for your face—your body deserves the same love. Powered by a sloughing cocktail of alpha-hydroxy acids (think mandelic, lactic and glycolic) as well as antioxidant-rich hibiscus extract and hydrating macadamia and avocado oils, Beautycounter’s no-rinse Overnight Resurfacing Body Peel ($77) is your answer to next-level limb smoothness. A roundup of the latest beauty buys to consider. New &Now BASE HITS Deeper woods like sandalwood might be mainstays in the drydown of men’s fragrances, but don’t sleep on sensual vanilla. Boss The Scent Magnetic for Him ($105) is a rich eau de parfum with top notes of pink pepper and maninka fruit (a Boss exclusive), middle notes of lavender and bran and base notes of vetiver and sweet black vanilla bean extract. TEXT BY NATASHA BOATENG. PHOTOGRAPHY: BACKSTAGE VIA IMAXTREE.COM. CANVAS SHELFIE 44 MARCH 2023
DIY Dye Clairol’s Natural Instincts Bold ammonia-free colour kits ($13) are specifically created for textured hair and naturally dark strands. Infused with a conditioning blend of argan oil and açaí and guarana-plant extracts to help protect your fragile mane during processing, these full-coverage permanent dyes (in six super-pigmented shades, like rich auburn and deep fuchsia) promise to last for up to eight weeks. FACIAL FUEL Launched in 1926, Weleda Skin Food now sells at the rate of one tube every 11 seconds around the world. The iconic do-it-all moisturizer has become hugely popular among makeup artists (we see you, Pati Dubroff), celebrities (hello, Hailey Bieber, Victoria Beckham and Rebel Wilson), aestheticians and dermatologists. The year 2019 saw the Swiss-German brand expand on its hero product with a lighter version of the cult cream, a body butter and a lip balm, and this year it welcomes an entirely new face range consisting of a Nourishing Day Cream ($31), Nourishing Night Cream ($31) and Nourishing Oil-to-Milk Cleanser ($28). Diehards will notice that the facial lineup is enriched with the same old-school plant-centric ingredients that Weleda is known for (calendula, chamomile, rosemary, pansy and sunflower extracts) as well as some new signatures, like olive leaf extract, squalane, lacquer tree berry and sacha inchi oil. MANI CHEAT Star-adorned square nails today? Tortoiseshell coffin talons tomorrow? Right this way. Press-on nails truly are the unsung heroes of quick manicures, and we’re totally here for their comeback. Available in four shapes (square, oval, almond and coffin) and an array of 24 different nail art designs and colours, Sally Hansen Salon Effects Perfect Manicure ($12) falsies come with everything you need (glue, adhesive tabs, prep pad, cuticle stick and nail file) to create flawless looks in the comfort of your own home, your hotel room or maybe even on-the-go. Ester Manas Spring 2023 SHELFIE CANVAS MARCH 2023 45
PHOTOGRAPHY: MAIN COURTESY OF SAMANTHA TAN; CC CREAM SWATCH COURTESY OF IT COSMETICS; EYESHADOW, BLUSH, EYELINER AND OIL SWATCHES VIA ISTOCK. One of my many creative outlets is drawing on my face,” reads an Instagram caption on Samantha Tan’s feed. The description, which is followed E\ D OLVW RI ʔʕ PDNHXS SURGXFWV DFFRPSDQLHV D VHOH RI WKH SURIHVVLRQDO UDFHFDU GULYHU URFNLQJ DQ H[DJJHUDWHG LQN\EODFN FDWH\H DFFHQWXDWHG ZLWK UHGPHHWVSLQN H\HVKDGRZ JOLWWHU IDX[ ODVKHV DQG DZOHVV OOHGLQ EURZV ,WśV D WRWDO OHZN sandwiched between shots of her suited up to drive and her BMW race car. 7KH PRUH WKDQ ʔʓʓʓʓʓ IDQV ZKR IROORZ 7DQ RQ ,QVWDJUDP DUH VXUH WR QRWLFH WKDW EODFN ZLQJHG H\HOLQHU LV D VLJQDWXUH of the car enthusiast’s, even under her helmet. For Tan, PDNHXS LV DQ H[WHQVLRQ RI WKH SRZHU VKH IHHOV DW WKH ZKHHO ŝ, GHQLWHO\ SXW RQ D IXOO IDFH RI PDNHXS EHIRUH , JR IRU D UDFHŞ VKH H[SUHVVHV ŝ,W UHDOO\ VHWV WKH WRQH DQG PDNHV PH feel confident and badass.” And her passion for beauty GRHVQśW VWRS DW PDNHXS ŝ, KDYH VWUXJJOHG ZLWK HF]HPD P\ HQWLUH OLIH VR ,śP XVHG WR KDYLQJ D YHU\ VSHFLF VNLQFDUH URXWLQH $W QLJKW P\ URXWLQH LV W\SLFDOO\ IRXU WR YH VWHSV DQG in the morning it’s three.” +HDULQJ WKDW 7DQ KDV DQ H[WHQVLYH EHDXW\ DUVHQDO WKDW VKH DOZD\V NHHSV FORVH LV UDWKHU UHIUHVKLQJ HVSHFLDOO\ VLQFH VKHśV LQ D VSRUW GRPLQDWHG E\ PHQ DQG ZKHUH ZRPHQ DUH RǟHQ WUHDWHG DV PDUNHWLQJ JLPPLFNV UDWKHU WKDQ PDMRU FRPSHWLWRUV ŝ, IHHO OLNH LI \RX VKRZ DQ\ NLQG RI IHPLQLQLW\ SHRSOH GRQśW WDNH \RX VHULRXVO\Ş VKH VD\V ŝ, ZDQW WR VKRZ WKDW \RX FDQ HPEUDFH \RXU IHPLQLQH VLGHřEH ZKRHYHU \RX DUHřDQG VWLOO be successful.” 2ULJLQDOO\ IURP 6WRXƨYLOOH 2QW 7DQ ZKR LV EDVHG LQ Southern California, started her professional career as a solo UDFHU ZKHQ VKH ZDV ʔ EXW WRGD\ URXWLQHO\ SDUWLFLSDWHV LQ WHDPHQGXUDQFH VSULQWV VRPH ODVWLQJ D IXOO ʕʗ KRXUV $QG DW MXVW ʕʘ \HDUV ROG VKH KDV TXLFNO\ FOLPEHG WKH UDQNV LQ PRWRUVSRUWffl ,Q ʕʓʕʔ VKH QRW RQO\ ZDONHG DZD\ ZLWK VL[ championship titles but also made history by becomLQJ WKH ILUVW $VLDQ ZRPDQ WR ZLQ D PDMRU LQWHUQDWLRQDO MOTOR CONTROL For pro race-car driver Samantha Tan, makeup and skincare are power tools that help support her badass attitude on the track. By NATASHA BOATENG HQGXUDQFHUDFLQJ FKDPSLRQVKLSřWKH UHQRZQHG ʕʗ+ 'XEDL ŝ,W IHHOV VR JRRG WR EH WKH UVW EXW , DOVR GRQśW ZDQW WR EH WKH last,” she says of the milestone. “I hope to continue paving WKH ZD\ IRU RWKHU JLUOV ZKR ZDQW WR SDUWDNH LQ WKLV VSRUWŞ Her deep love of beauty products also started when she was in her teens; in the early aughts, she used to watch Michelle Phan, an OG Asian American beauty vlogger. “Growing up in a small town, I was the only Asian person in my class in high school, so I ran to YouTube to find people I could relate to,” she recounts. “Michelle Phan TXLFNO\ EHFDPH RQH RI P\ UROH PRGHOV DQG , IHOO LQ ORYH ZLWK PDNHXS 6KHśV DOVR D ELJ VNLQFDUH MXQNLHŞ +RSLQJ WR FRQWLQXH WR EUHDN EDUULHUV LQ KHU HOG 7DQ QRZ KDV KHU VLJKWV VHW RQ WKH ʕʗ +RXUV /H 0DQV LQ )UDQFHřWKH pinnacle of competitive endurance racing. “My ultimate JRDO LV WR JR WR /H 0DQV DQG EH WKH UVW $VLDQ ZRPDQ WR ZLQ WKDWŞ VKH VD\V ŝ$QG LIřZKHQř, KLW WKDW PLOHVWRQH LW would be so monumental for not only me but young girls. My whole thing is to become the role model I never had in the industry.” 46 MARCH 2023 CANVAS REGIMENS
TopShelf Samantha Tan’s tried-and-true beauty essentials. SKIN & HAIR 1. “I’m big on double cleansing in the evenings to break down any makeup and dirt from the day.” Farmacy Clearly Clean makeup cleansing balm, $46; CeraVe Hydrating Cleanser, $21 2. “I typically use an essence at night after cleansing.” SK-II Facial Treatment Essence, $241 3. “I’ll do a face mask at night for a little self-care. It sets the tone for race day.” Innisfree My Real Squeeze Mask in “Cucumber,” $2.50 4. “I’m an Aveeno stan.” Aveeno Daily Moisturizing Face Cream, $14 5. “I really like serums by Paula’s Choice. I use the brand’s vitamin C formula in the morning and a retinol one in the evening.” Paula’s Choice C15 Super Booster, $77, and Super Antioxidant Concentrate Serum With Retinol, $55 6. “Hair-care-wise, I like to do a treatment mask the night before a race.” Ouai Fine to Medium Hair Treatment Masque, $50 MAKEUP 7. “This CC cream comes with built-in SPF 50.” It Cosmetics Your Skin But Better CC+ in “Medium,” $55 8. “I’ve been loving this bronzer stick for contouring.” Milk Makeup Matte Cream Bronzer Stick in “Baked,” $29 9. “This blush has a really pretty shimmer.” Nars Blush in “Orgasm,” $40 10. “I love the sparkly vibe of Fenty Beauty’s highlighters.” Fenty Beauty Diamond Bomb All-Over Diamond Veil in “How Many Carats?!,” $54 11. “I started using this Anastasia pomade on my brows in high school and have stuck with it ever since.” Anastasia Dipbrow Pomade in “Dark Brown,” $28 12. “You’ll almost never catch me outside the house without liquid eyeliner on. This long-wearing formula has lasted throughout all of my 24-hour races.” Tarte Double Take eyeliner, $33 13. “This is my go-to palette for my eyeshadow looks.” Morphe 350 Supernatural Glow Artistry Palette, $38 5 1 1 2 3 4 13 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 MARCH 2023 47 REGIMENS CANVAS
H E R O S K U S CANVAS HAIR CARE 48 MARCH 2023 Amika Hydro Rush Intense Moisture LeaveIn Conditioner, $34 The hair on your head is beautifully unique, but you are not alone in experiencing its most frequent challenges. :H DVNHG WZR SURV WR VSLOO WKHLU EHVW DGYLFHřIURP getting frizz-free curls that last for days to nipping EUHDNDJH RI FRORXUWUHDWHG VWUDQGV LQ WKH EXGřIRU GHDOLQJ with common hair concerns. Add these tips to your routine today and your best hair days will unfold before your eyes. Dealing with droopy, limp hair? The art to amplifying fine, flat strands with volume that lasts includes layering the proper products and finessing your styling techniques. “Fine hair needs something to adhere to,” says Greg Gilmore, global colour ambassador for Moroccanoil and an L.A.-based celebrity colourist who’s worked with Toni Braxton, Tiffany Haddish and Storm Reid. The road to big things begins in the shower. “A volumizing shampoo will give you a good base to start with,” says Jennifer Dubois, hairstylist and owner of Miyosiwin Salon Spa in Regina, which offers services that are sensitive to Indigenous culture. She recommends traditional conditioner for all hair types, to help reduce frizz and ease tangles, but those with superfine hair can pivot to a lightweight leave-in conditioning mist. “Spray it on your hands and rub it into the ends first, and then work your way up,” she says. Using a hot tool helps build structure for fine strands; just be sure to use a thermal protectant before layering in a styling product with Dove Hair Therapy Strength & Fullness Boost Shampoo, $9 Authentic Beauty Concept Amplify Mousse, $31 Conair 3Q Ionic Hot Brush, $95 THE BIGBOOST PHOTOGRAPHY: BACKSTAGE AND RUNWAY VIA IMAXTREE.COM; SWATCHES VIA ISTOCK. Greasy scalp? Lack of volume? Try these hair hacks for help with common issues. By INGRIE WILLIAMS HEAD STRONG hold. A volumizing mousse and a two-in-one dryer brush can add amazing volume, Dubois explains. “Those tools are easy to use,” she says, noting that elevation can make or break fuller results. “At the crown, you want to pull the brush straight up, pushing the hair forward.” To create voluminous curls that last, Gilmore uses a curling iron with an extra-hold hairspray. “Spray a little bit on each section before you curl it; then allow the section to sit there or pin it up,” he says. “And don’t touch it until you’re ready to comb out the whole style.” Whichever hot tool you choose, adjust the setting to below 400ºF. “High heat closes the cuticle, which makes hair sleeker and smoother,” says Gilmore. “But that doesn’t give fine hair the opportunity to have curls that last. They will have a hard time standing up against gravity.” Zim mermann
HAIR CARE CANVAS MARCH 2023 49 If your hair seems set on being perpetually greasy, here’s how to course-correct. To help a client with an oily scalp, Dubois switches up the basics. “It could be your shampoo that’s causing the problem, so you need to change it and find one that works better,” she says. “But you also need to give the new formula a sufficient trial period. You can’t just try it for a couple of weeks; it’s going to take a few months for your scalp to adjust.” Phasing out daily shampoos is another part of her protocol. “Using dry shampoo in between washes will help combat oiliness while also giving your scalp a break,” she says. “Some formulas have a gritty feeling, which is good for fine hair but not for coarse strands, while others have a clean feeling.” Different varieties address different hair types, so find your “fit” by experimenting. For best results with dry shampoo, product placement counts, too. Gilmore suggests parting the hair, holding the can several inches away from your head and spraying directly toward the scalp area, not necessarily on the hair itself. “Let it sit for a second and then start to comb through the hair,” he says. “The product will start to distribute; you will see how it’s moving and can then determine if you want to add a bit more.” Where you put other stylers can also help or hinder the issue. Sprays with a dry matte texture can diminish the look of stringy strands overall, but Dubois suggests avoiding a concentration of thermal protectants on the roots and warns against using too much hairspray. “It might add to the greasiness,” she says. The quickest foolproof fix? Work with what you’ve got and lean into a fashion-forward updo. “Any extra grease gives you an opportunity to have a really nice slicked-back ponytail or a sculpted chignon or bun,” says Gilmore. » OILERALERT HERO SKUS Chanel Stella McCartney Batiste Naturally Green Tea & Chamomile Dry Shampoo, $13 KMS Dry Texture Spray, $18 Neutrogena Healthy Scalp Clarify & Shine Shampoo, $15
H E R O S K U S 50 MARCH 2023 CANVAS HAIR CARE Shaeri Co-Wash, $47 Kazmaleje KurlsPlus Comb, $30 Maui Moisture Curl Quench + Coconut Oil Curl Smoothie, $13 Do you dream of having frizz-free, ultra-springy curls that can withstand multi-day appearances? A few key steps can make that dream a reality. Infusing your texture with hydration at every stage is an ideal strategy, and Dubois considers cleansing products made exclusively for curls to be game-changers. “Conditioner makes the big difference,” she says. “It smooths the cuticle down so it’s not frizzy and helps the curl form better.” Applying a leave-in conditioner as soon as you finish your cleansing routine, followed promptly by a styling product that suits your texture, is also a must. Light creams or gels are best for finer curls, while thicker creams and balms tend to be a good match for coarser ones. Either way, be generous with product application and diligent with distribution. Gilmore creates definition by going section by section using a wide-toothed comb. “Then I’ll go through each section using my fingers like a rake to separate the curls that are saturated with product,” he says. From there, air-drying or gently blow-drying using a diffuser will lock curls in. “Air-drying is the longest way to dry, but it will give you the best curls afterwards,” says Gilmore. If you’re diffusing, reduce excess moisture only around the roots and use low heat and a low airflow to avoid disrupting curls, says Dubois. And at night, protecting your curls while you sleep is crucial for style longevity. Gilmore recommends wrapping a silky scarf around the hairline, to protect edges, and then putting a satin bonnet on top. “The headband pushes the curls back, so when you’re lying on your side, you’re not necessarily on your curls,” he says. For a quick morning refresh, mix a bit of leave-in conditioner with a bottle of water and lightly mist to reactivate the curling product. CURL TALK PHOTOGRAPHY: BACKSTAGE AND RUNWAY VIA IMAXTREE.COM; SWATCHES VIA ISTOCK. Missoni