H E R O S K U S MARCH 2023 51 HAIR CARE CANVAS The biggest pitfall for colour-treated strands is breakage, but with a few pro tips, you can navigate through the fragile phase and regain strength. “You will always be compromising your hair by using colour, but this shouldn’t deter you,” says Gilmore. “Hair colour comes with so many great benefits, like the opportunity to have freedom of expression.” Preventive measures are best. “If you’re investing in a colour service, you need to be investing in your home routine with colour-treated products as well,” advises Dubois. Should breakage occur, consider it a sign that something is missing. “All colour-treated clients need a [professional] protein treatment every six to eight weeks for strengthening,” says Gilmore. “Protein helps build up the hair strand and make it sturdy.” In between salon treatments, which offer more potent formulas that help restore hair integrity, an at-home routine focused on moisture will help, too. You need to find a balance between strength and softness, says Dubois. Her go-to SOS lineup for breakage includes shampoo, conditioner and leave-in conditioner for brittle hair and a biweekly reparative mask or treatment. For blonds experiencing breakage, Dubois suggests alternating between shampoos that neutralize brassiness and more moisturizing formulas. Purple shampoo keeps blond tones bright, but it can also be very drying, she says. And excessive exposure to hot tools is another drying factor to watch out for. “Limit the amount of heat styling, and always use a leave-in conditioner and thermal protectant on colourtreated hair before blow-drying,” says Gilmore. For those using at-home hair colour, he also recommends watching out for breakage caused by overprocessing. If you start by applying dye in the same spot on your head every time, it will always be sitting there the longest while you finish the rest of your hair, he explains. Redken Acidic Bonding Concentrate Intensive Treatment, $34 L’Oréal Professionnel Serie Expert Metal Detox Professional Concentrated Oil, $43 Moroccanoil Moisture Repair Shampoo & Conditioner, $30 each BREAKING POINT Blumarine
AmazingGaze Content creator Kairyn Potts’s bold eye makeup is intrinsically linked to his Indigenous roots. As told to NATASHA BOATENG “Cheekbone Beauty is the first Indigenous-owned makeup company to be carried by Sephora Canada.” Cheekbone Beauty Sustain Blush/Bronzer in “Medium,” $24 InHisKit The content creator’s makeup staples are like an ode to Indigenousowned beauty brands. “This Xicana and Indigenous-owned makeup company has really beautiful palettes. This is my favourite one because it has two of my go-to colours: orange and turquoise.” Prados Beauty The Matriarch Palette, $66 52 MARCH 2023 CANVAS MY MAKEUP
PHOTOGRAPHY: POTTS COURTESY OF KAIRYN POTTS; BINNY COSMETICS VIA INSTAGRAM/@BINNY_COSMETICS. “My good friend Brittany David is an up-andcoming Indigenous makeup and specialeffects artist. She creates really vibrant pigments and beautiful glitters, which I’ve used so many times in my content.” Binny Cosmetics Pride Palette, $40 “RezGal Lashes founder Brandi Woodhouse is from Pinaymootang First Nation, and she creates really beautiful premium mink lashes with the coolest names. These ones are fluffy and dramatic—they’re perfect for drag.” RezGal Lashes in “Auntie,” $10 Kairyn Potts’s TikTok videos are heavily nuanced. By mixing comedy, real-life experiences and education, the Toronto-based Two-Spirit youth advocate and former social worker has amassed a IROORZLQJ KRYHULQJ QHDU WKH ʕʛʓʓʓʓ PDUN +LV HQWHUWDLQLQJ content shines a light on important Indigenous topics and issues, like Two-Spirit/gender identity, mental-health awareness, sexual health and child welfare, to name a few. It’s a ZLQQLQJ IRUPXOD WKDW KDV ODQGHG KLP RQ 7LN7RNśV ʕʓʕʕ HGLWLRQ RI 7KH 'LVFRYHU /LVW D FRPSLODWLRQ RI ʘʓ FUHDWRUV IURP across the globe who are making a tremendous impact on the SODWIRUP $QRWKHU NH\ HOHPHQW WKDWśV RǟHQ ZRYHQ WKURXJKRXW KLV YLGHRV" &RORXUIXO JUDSKLF H\H ORRNV +HUH 3RWWV VKDUHV KRZ PDNHXS SOD\V D GHQLQJ UROH LQ KLV PHVVDJLQJ I’m a Nakota Sioux from Alexis Nakota Sioux Nation near Edmonton in Treaty Six Territory, and I grew up going to powwows. Powwow makeup can be many things, but one of the main looks I would see women in my community do as fancy-shawl and jingle-dress dancers is really JUDSKLF OLQHU DORQJ WKHLU H\HV XVLQJ D ORW RI GRWV LQ GLƨHUent colours and sizes. That makeup was the pinnacle of beauty to me, like the upper echelon of what it meant to be pretty. I was a powwow dancer myself when I was young, except I was a men’s traditional dancer and I wasn’t being me. I was really scared of what people would think, VR , VWLHG P\VHOI D ORW DQG ZRXOG always say to myself, “Damn, when I grow up, I’m going to try that kind of makeup.” Now that I’m older and not ashamed of who I DFWXDOO\ DPř,śYH FRPH LQWR P\ Two-Spirit identity holistically, and I’m really self-actualized as D SHUVRQř, GRQśW SODFH WKRVH restrictions on myself anymore. I allow myself to have a ton of fun recreating all of the looks that I saw as a kid and that screamed ŝEHDXW\Ş WR PHřEXW XQLTXH EHDXW\ WKDW \RX ZRXOG RQO\ VHH if you were on the powwow trail along Treaty Six Territory. 7KH FRORXUV , FKRRVH WR ZHDU KROG GHHS VLJQLFDQFH IRU me as well. When the Nakota, Dakota and Lakota peoples went to war, they painted their faces, and red was a colour they used to signify blood and power. In a more contemporary sense, red has been associated with the Missing and Murdered Indigenous Women, Girls and Two-Spirit People movement, which is something I speak a lot about in my online content. So when you see me wearing red, I’m paying respect to and raising awareness for that movement in particular. Orange is also an incredibly important colour because it represents Orange Shirt Day and the Every Child 0DWWHUV PRYHPHQWřFDOOV RI MXVWLFH IRU ,QGLJHQRXV FKLOGUHQ ZKR ZHUH WDNHQ WR UHVLGHQWLDO VFKRROV $QG , ORYH WXUTXRLVH VR PXFK 7XUTXRLVH VWRQHV DUH OLNH GLDPRQGV IRU ,QGLJHQRXV people. They represent wealth, power and luxury and have D YHU\ UHJDO DLU DERXW WKHP 7XUTXRLVH MHZHOOHU\ SLHFHV DUH usually handmade, and a lot of them come from the Navajo 1DWLRQ :KHQ , ZHDU WXUTXRLVH LWśV OLNH WKH HTXLYDOHQW RI wearing canary diamonds. I also really like to match my makeup to my beadwork. I’ll build an entire look around a piece, whether it’s beaded earrings, rope, a choker, a headband or a jacket. Beadwork from 7UHDW\ 6L[ 7HUULWRU\ LV UHDOO\ XQLTXH LW RǟHQ UHSUHVHQWV WKH ZLOG RUDOV that grow in the prairies there), and a lot of my pieces, most of which my husband creates, incorporate materials like abalone and dentalium shells, ERQH KRUVHKDLU DQG TXLOO ZRUN It took a long time for me to think I was beautiful; I was always teased and beaten up for my femininity. But now that I’m older and I’ve come into my body and how I look, my makeup really helps me package that all together and express myself in a way that pays homage to my roots and my upbringing. No matter where I go, I feel like, in a way, I’m bringing home with me. MARCH 2023 53 MY MAKEUP CANVAS
LocsTales Four Canadians unpack the relationship they have with their signature locked hairstyle. By NATASHA BOATENG SHAQUONE BLAKE MODEL TORONTO @onceaking__ I grew up admiring locs. (My dad has had them for as long as I can remember.) To me, they represent power. I started growing my own when I was around 14, and five years into my locs journey, I began dabbling with different hues—blond, blue, red and green. But grey has always been my favourite hair colour; it reminds me of wisdom. I went through a series of boxed dyes to achieve my desired grey shade, but the process was really damaging to my hair so I eventually went to a hairdresser to try faux locs. My own locs get braided; then extensions (mine are handmade in Poland) are added in using a crochet technique. I’ve spent the majority of my life trying to fit in, but now I’m all about standing out. A locs mullet (bangs at the front, long in the back, shaved sides) has been my signature look for the past three years. My hair makes me feel magical, unique and exclusively me. An incredibly empowering thing about afro-textured KDLU LV KRZ YHUVDWLOH LW LV /RFVřD SURWHFWLYH KDLUstyle where strands of hair are twisted around WKHPVHOYHV LQWR SHUPDQHQW IXVHG XQLWVřDUH KHDYily associated with Black identity and have rich and complex origins. From Africa to Asia to the Americas, the hairstyle has been worn continuously by people of colour from various regions around the world, dating from ancient times until now. But despite their long history, locs were only really thrust into :HVWHUQ FXOWXUH LQ WKH ʔ ʚʓV WKDQNV WR WKH VXFFHVV RI UHJJDH artist Bob Marley, who wore them as a part of his connection WR 5DVWDIDULDQLVPřD UHOLJLRXV PRYHPHQW ERUQ LQ -DPDLFD For decades, the term “dreadlocks” has been used to describe the style, but today it’s considered problematic due to its deep entanglement in colonialism and the establishment of Eurocentric beauty standards, which have caused natural hair and protective styles to be unfairly judged and policed. Thus, there’s been a push to drop “dread” altogether to create a healthier narrative. Sure, locs continue to be symbolic of spiritual or religious beliefs for many who sport them, but for a multitude of others, WKH KDLUVW\OH KROGV GLƨHUHQW PHDQLQJV ,W FDQ UHSUHVHQW FXOWXUDO or ethnic pride, a step in determining one’s own beauty ideal or making a hairstyle choice that simply feels convenient (though it does come with its own unique maintenance routine, including regular washing). Here, four creatives share their locs journey and the experiences they’ve encountered along the way. 54 MARCH 2023 CANVAS TEXTURE TALK
NASKADEMINI PHOTOGRAPHER MONTREAL @naskademini My parents and my brothers all have locs. Even my aunt has beautiful locs flowing almost all the way down to her ankles. I got mine done in Trinidad and Tobago, where my family is from, and it’s been quite a few years now that I’ve been growing them out. There are unpleasant stigmas associated with locs due to a lack of knowledge and the ways people can see you. A common question I get asked is if I wash my hair. A lot of people also mistake locs for braids or continue to refer to them as “dreadlocks,” not realizing that the traditional term now has a negative connotation attached to it. People have also randomly asked me if I have weed, assuming I’m a stoner or that I sell it. There’s a larger conversation that needs to be had about how people view the hairstyle and think you’re living a certain way based on your appearance. ROXANNEDENOBREGA MAKEUPARTISTTORONTO @roxannedenobrega My locs journey started in the late ’90s. People would ask me why I was growing them out, commenting that I wouldn’t be able to find work. Maybe I wouldn’t have been able to get an office job—especially back then—but because I’m a makeup artist, I felt like I had creative licence to do what I wanted. Also, my image of locs was Angela Davis, an educated activist and university professor who had them at the time. Seeing her really gave me confidence and made me not worry about others’ opinions. Since the ’90s, I’ve had my locs really long and short, I’ve coloured them many times and I’ve even shaved them off, grown an afro and then eventually retwisted my hair. I’ve never stuck to just one style. I just love how in control I feel with my locs. DAMARISWHITE MODEL BARRIE, ONT. @queen.albino I’ve been growing my locs for eight years. I was tired of the process of getting my hair chemically relaxed (which was often painful) every few weeks or having to get extensions redone. To me, locs felt like something that would be easier to maintain and that I could take on myself. And they’re very versatile: I’ll do updos or half-up styles and curl them or braid them. Common stereotypes I experience about my locs are people assuming I’m Rastafarian or spiritual or that I’m either vegan or vegetarian. And as a model, I’ve been on-set with hairstylists who think they can’t do PH much with my hair so they just leave it down. OTOGRAPHY: BLAKE BY DOMENIC CARMINE FOR VITALY; NASKADEMINI COURTESY OF NASKADEMINI; DE NOBREGA BY GEORGE PANAYOTOU; WHITE COURTESY OF MAC COSMETICS. MARCH 2023 55 TEXTURE TALK CANVAS
CHECK IN DAILY for THE RELEASES YOU NEED TO KNOW FASHIONMAGAZINE.COM/THE-DROP @FASHIONCanada / @FASHIONMagazine TODAY LAST WEEK TOMORROW LAST WEEK
TEXT BY BERNADETTE MORRA. PHOTOGRAPHY BY ROYAL GILBERT. STYLING BY KAREN CLARKSON. DRESS, $8,455, SAINT LAURENT BY ANTHONY VACCARELLO. BRACELET, $8,750, CARTIER. WRAP PARTY Draping is just one of the season’s top looks modelled by (former banker!) Jodie Turner-Smith. Turn to page 68 for more. D R E S S I N G • D R E A M I N G • D I S C O V E R I N G
JEAN Dress, $225, Meesh.to. Boots, $1,215, Paris Texas. Earrings, $525, Ottolinger at Archives Toronto. Necklace, $100, COS. Bracelet, $115, Biko. Ring (left, top), $270, ring (left, bottom), $380, and rings (right, middle and bottom), $380 each, Steff Eleoff. Ring (worn throughout) (right, top), Dobson’s own.
Words by NATALIE MICHIE Photography by LAWRENCE CORTEZ Styling by ASHLEY GALANG Creative direction by GEORGE ANTONOPOULOS Fefe Dobson is back and bolder than ever in this season’s most daring denim looks. MACHINE
Jacket, $980, Unttld. Top, $235, Gabriella Meyer at Denimcratic. Earrings, $1,810, and necklace, $700, Dolce & Gabbana.
Jacket, $295, U3 Select. Top, $395, and skirt, $275, Diesel. Rings, $100 each, Vitaly. Earrings, $540, Steff Eleoff. Legwear, $8, Ardene.
Jacket, $4,640, Junya Watanabe x Comme des Garçons at The Room at Hudson’s Bay. Top, $580, Gabriella Meyer at Denimcratic. Pants, $520, Alexandra Armata. Shoes, $350, Jeffrey Campbell. Earcuff, $120, Vitaly. Earrings, $70, COS. Necklace, $145, Gahm. 62 MARCH 2023
F EFEDOBSONHASALWAYSBEEN good at JHWWLQJ KHU SRLQW DFURVV $ǟHU DOO ZKHQ WKH &DQDGLDQ VLQJHU HPHUJHG RQ WKH HDUO\DXJKWV SRSURFN VFHQH DW MXVWʔʛ \HDUV RI DJHVKH NLQG RI had to be. %DFN WKHQ WKH JHQUH ZDV ŝD ER\śV JDPHŞ VKH H[SODLQV ŝ:KHQ , ZDV DERXW WR JR RQVWDJH , FRXOG IHHO WKH HQHUJ\ RI Ś:KDW LV VKH JRLQJ WR GR" :KDW LV VKH JRLQJ WR EULQJ" /LNH \HDKULJKWśŞ UHFDOOV 'REVRQ DERXW WKH VHQVH VKH JRW IURP KHU PDOH FRXQWHUSDUWV HDUO\ LQ KHU FDUHHU ŝ, ZRXOGQśW VD\ WKDW FRQVFLRXVO\ P\ JRDO ZDV WRřŞ VKH SDXVHV ŝ$FWXDOO\ ,śG EH O\LQJ &RQVFLRXVO\ P\ JRDO ZDV WR PDNH WKRVH ER\V HDW P\ GXVW DQG WR VKRZ WKDW JLUOV FDQ URFN MXVW DV KDUGŞ 6R WKDWśV ZKDWVKH GLG 6SRUWLQJ VPXGJHG H\HOLQHU VKDJJ\ KDLU DQG D GDUN ZDUGUREH DGRUQHG ZLWK VWXGV DQG IUD\V 'REVRQ EHFDPH D SRSSXQN LFRQ WR DQ HQWLUH JHQHUDWLRQ 7KURXJKRXW WKH ʕʓʓʓV DQG HDUO\ ʕʓʔʓVVKH FRQVLVWHQWO\ JLǟHG WKH ZRUOG ZLWK JULWW\DQWKHPV DERXW DGROHVFHQW DQJVWXQDSRORJHWLFUHEHOOLRQ DQG WKH WKULOO RI QHZ ORYH :LWK KHU QRQFRQIRUPLVW VW\OH DQG KHDGEXPSLQJ KLWV OLNH ŝ6WXWWHULQJŞ DQG ŝ7DNH 0H $ZD\Ş WKH DUWLVW HPEROGHQHG \RXQJ OLVWHQHUV WR WKLQNřDQG GUHVVř IRUWKHPVHOYHV ŝ, MXVW WULHG WR VWLFN WR P\ JXQVŞ VKH VD\V ORRNLQJ EDFN RQ KHUWHHQDJH ULVH WR IDPH GXULQJ WKH QRXJKWLHV,W ZDV DQ HUD RI EODWDQWO\ ULJLG EHDXW\ VWDQGDUGV WKDW RǟHQ LGROL]HG ZDLVK ZKLWH ERGLHV$V D \RXQJ%ODFNZRPDQ LQ WKHPXVLF LQGXVWU\ 'REVRQ ZDV QR VWUDQJHU WR WKHVH SHUYDVLYH SUHIHUHQFHV ŝ7KHUH ZDV SUHVVXUH WR SXW RQ PRUH PDNHXS DQG WR QRW KDYH P\ KDLUVR FUD]\řVR XQUXO\Ş VKH VKDUHV ŝ%XW,MXVW QHYHUIHOW FRPIRUWDEOH ZLWK WKRVH UXOHV 6R ZKHQ , VWDUWHG PDNLQJ PXVLF, ZDQWHG WR ZHDU'LFNLHV DQG &RQYHUVH DQG WDQN WRSV ,MXVW ZDQWHG WR EH FRPIRUWDEOHŞ 7RGD\WKDWUHEHOOLRXV HWKRVVWLOOGHQHV'REVRQśV DSSURDFK WRIDVKLRQ$V D UXOHVKHZRQśWZHDU DQ\WKLQJ H[DFWO\WKHZD\ LW ZRXOG EH VW\OHG RQ D PDQQHTXLQřRU LQ RWKHU ZRUGV KRZ VRPHRQH HOVH WKLQNV LW VKRXOG ORRN ŝ<RXU FORWKLQJ H[SUHVVHV ZKR \RX DUHŞ VKH VD\V DGGLQJ WKDWIRU KHU D OHDWKHUMDFNHWLV D ŝVHFRQG VNLQŞ VKH UDUHO\ OHDYHV KRPH ZLWKRXW 7KH ʖʚ\HDUROG DUWLVW LV VWLOO VSRUWLQJ WKH VDPH SXQNURFN VHSDUDWHV RQVWDJH GHVSLWH WKH GLƨHUHQW GLUHFWLRQ KHU PXVLF KDVWDNHQ:LWK VSLULWHG VLQJOHVUHOHDVHG LQ ʕʓʕʕ DQG D EUDQG QHZ DOEXP LQ ʕʓʕʖ WKH VRQJZULWHUśV ODWHVW ZRUN LV DQ RGH WR WKH KLJKV DQG ORZV RI KHU HLJKW\HDU EUHDN IURP WKH VSRWOLJKW ŝ, QHHGHG WKH WLPH DZD\ WR UHHYDOXDWH WUDQVIRUP DQG EH EHWWHUŞ VKH H[SODLQV ŝ,Q WKH SDVW IHZ \HDUV ,śYH JRWWHQ PDUULHG,śYH KDG PDUULDJH LVVXHV DQG ,śYH OHDUQHG D ORW DERXW P\VHOIřDERXW ORYH ORVV DQG KHDUWEUHDNŞ :KHQ , DVN KHU WR QDPH WKLV SKDVH RI KHU OLIH KRZHYHU KHU UHVSRQVH LV XQZDYHULQJO\ RSWLPLVWLF ŝ3XUH ORYHŞ VKH VD\V ŝ-XVW ORYHŞ 1RZ ROGHU ZLVHU DQG DUPHG ZLWK DQ XQVKDNDEOH VW\OH )HIH 'REVRQ LV \HW DJDLQ KHUH WR VSHDN KHU PLQGřZKHWKHU ZH OLNH ZKDWVKH KDVWR VD\ RU QRW READ THE FULL INTERVIEW AT FASHIONMAGAZINE.COM. MARCH 2023 63
Top, $215, Levi’s x Naomi Osaka. Jeans, $1,325, shoes, $1,575, earrings, $525, and scarf and necklace, prices upon request, Versace. Ring (left), $90, Vitaly. Ring (right), $610, Panconesi at Archives Toronto.
Jacket, $2,290, pants, $1,190, boots, $1,490, earrings, $590, and ring, $490, Alexander McQueen.
Vest, $495, and pants, $445, Ganni. Earrings, $215, and necklace, $160, GCDS at Archives Toronto. Bracelets, $600 each, Steff Eleoff.
Dress, $2,310, Et Ochs. Boots, $1,215, Paris Texas. Earrings, $780, Panconesi at Archives Toronto. Gloves, $335, Gabriella Meyer at Denimcratic. Hair, Ryan L. McGovern for P1M. ca. Makeup, Sabrina Rinaldi for P1M.ca. Fashion assistant, Jalen Fairclough. Photo assistants, Nicolas Emas Varone and Judy Gu. Shot on location at El Mocambo in Toronto.
Top, price upon request, and skirt, $2,750, Loewe. Shoes, $1,250, Gina. Earring (worn throughout), Turner-Smith’s own.
Words by ANNIKA LAUTENS Photography by ROYAL GILBERT Styling by KAREN CLARKSON Creative direction by GEORGE ANTONOPOULOS From her iconic red-carpet reveals to her hearty laughter, Jodie Turner-Smith proves she’s no wallflower. WHENJODIETURNER-SMITHpops onto my screen in January, she’s running down the stairs of her London, England, home, trying to escape the clutches of her almost WKUHH\HDUROG GDXJKWHU 2ƨ LQ WKH GLVWDQFH , KHDU PXƬHG criesfollowed by the soothing voiceof herhusband,Dawson’s Creek DOXP -RVKXD -DFNVRQ ŝ,V VKH 2."Ş , DVN DZDUH WKDW ,śYH FDXJKW WKH PRGHO WXUQHG DFWRU LQ PRP PRGH ŝ6KHśV 2.Ş ODXJKV 7XUQHU6PLWK DQG LWśV D JUHDW ODXJKffl MR\IXOO\ ORXG LQIHFWLRXVO\ZDUPDQG DV,ZLOO GLVFRYHUODWHU D FRQVWDQW LQ RXU KRXUORQJ FRQYHUVDWLRQřDQG LQ KHU ZRUN GXULQJ WKH SDVWʔʕ PRQWKV 7XUQHU6PLWK LV KDYLQJ D \HDU RI FRPHG\ 6KH UVW EXUVW RQWRRXUVFUHHQVLQ ʕʓʔśVʤXHHQ 6OLPbeforemaking headOLQHVIRU KHU FRQWURYHUVLDO FDVWLQJ LQ WKH WLWXODUUROH LQ WKH ʕʓʕʔ $QQH %ROH\Q PLQLVHULHV %XW LQ ʕʓʕʕ 7XUQHU6PLWK ZDQWHG to start the year laughing, so she did. Enter :KLWH 1RLVH, a dark comedy by Noah Baumbach (0DUULDJH 6WRU\) about a IDPLO\ WU\LQJ WR HVFDSH D FKHPLFDO RXWEUHDN LQ WKH śʛʓV DQG %DG 0RQNH\, Vince Vaughn’s detective series for Apple 79 VFKHGXOHG WR SUHPLHUH LQ ʕʓʕʖ +RZHYHU EDVHG RQ KRZ 7XUQHU6PLWK OLJKWV XS ZKHQ ZH WDON DERXW LW QRWKLQJ PDGH KHU JLJJOH OLNH KHU QHZOP 0XUGHU0\VWHU\ʕ,starring $GDP 6DQGOHU DQG -HQQLIHU $QLVWRQ FRPLQJ WR 1HWL[ RQ 0DUFK ʖʔ ŝ,W ZDV GLƫFXOW WR NHHS D VWUDLJKW IDFH EXW , KDG WKH DE VROXWH EHVW WLPH ZLWK WKRVH WZRŞ VKH EHDPV ŝ, KRSH WKH\ FRQWLQXH WKH Ś$QLVWRQ6DQGOHU &LQHPDWLF 8QLYHUVHś XQWLO WKH\śUH KREEOLQJ ZLWK ZDONHUVŞ 7KDWśV WKH JUHDW WKLQJ DERXW 7XUQHU6PLWKffl 6KHśV QRW DIUDLG WR EH HQWKXVLDVWLF :KHUH VRPH FHOHEULWLHV RǟHQ IHHO WKH QHHG WR SURYH WKH\ DUH WRR FRRO WR FDUH 7XUQHU6PLWK LV GHOLJKWIXOO\ DQG UHIUHVKLQJO\ WKH RSSRVLWH 6KH VSHDNV ZLWKRXW WUHSLGDWLRQ DQG SURQRXQFHV KHU RSLQLRQV ERWK JRRG DQG EDG IHDUOHVVO\ :KHQ ZH YLGHR chat, her hair is berry blue and she’s wearing gigantic goldULPPHG JODVVHV WKDW VKH GUDPDWLFDOO\ SXWV RQ DQG WDNHV Rƨ ZKHQ WU\LQJ WR HPSKDVL]H D SRLQW 6KH FDOOV PH ŝEDEHŞ UHSHDWHGO\ ODXJKLQJ ERWKZLWKPH DQG DWPH DW GLƨHUHQWWLPHV DQG , KDYH WR VWURQJO\ UHVLVW WKH XUJH WR DVN KHUWR EH P\ QHZ best friend. » MARCH 2023 69 COVER STORY INSPO
Dress, jumpsuit and bikini, prices upon request, Burberry. Earring (worn throughout), Turner-Smith’s own.
Top, $14,215, skirt, $74,940, and headpiece, $7,495, Gucci.
Top, skirt and boots, prices upon request, Louis Vuitton.
Top, skirt, shorts, socks, shoes, necklace, earrings, bracelet and ring, prices upon request, Dior.
,W ZRXOG EH HDV\ WR EHOLHYH WKDW WKH DFWRUśV HQYLDEOH FRQ- dence is innate. But, she reveals, it took some time to build. Turner-Smith was born and raised by Jamaican parents in Peterborough, England, but moved to Maryland when she ZDVʔʓ $ǟHU DWWHQGLQJ WKH 8QLYHUVLW\ RI 3LWWVEXUJK 7XUQHU 6PLWK SXUVXHG D FDUHHULQ EDQNLQJ ŝ$V DQ LPPLJUDQW IDPLO\ we weren’t wealthy by any means,” she explains. “When I was in school, I did theatre. But when it came to choosing a FDUHHU WKHUH KDG WR EH DQ HOHPHQW RI SUDFWLFDOLW\ff EHLQJ D SHUIRUPHU RU LQ WKH DUWV ZDV QRW UHDOLVWLFŞ ,W GLGQśW WDNH ORQJ EHIRUH 7XUQHU6PLWK IHOW XQIXOOOHG DQG OHǟKHUMRE WREHFRPH D writer. “I got this crazy idea thatIshould be happy,” she says ZLWK SOD\IXO VDUFDVP :KHQZULWLQJ MREV SURYHG WREH VFDUFH D SLYRWDO HQFRXQWHU ZLWK 3KDUUHOO :LOOLDPVřZKRP VKH PHW DW D 1(5' FRQFHUW LQ ʕʓʓ řFKDQJHG WKH WUDMHFWRU\ RI KHU OLIH ŝ, ZRXOGQśW say that he discovered me, but he encouraged me to try to be a model,” she begins very nonchalantly, glossing over how LQFUHGLEO\ VXUUHDO DQG IUDQNO\ FRRO WKDW VWDWHPHQW LV ŝ7KDW was a big moment that made me decide to take a chance on P\VHOI , KDG WKLV PHQWDOLW\ RI Ś, KDYH QRWKLQJ WR ORVH DQG HYHU\WKLQJ WR JDLQśř, MXVW WULHG DQG WULHG XQWLO , VDZ UHVXOWVŞ $OWKRXJK 7XUQHU6PLWK GHVFULEHV KHUVHOI DV DQ ŝXQVXFFHVVIXOPRGHOŞ WKLVVWDWHPHQWLVPRUH OLNHO\ GXH WRKHU KXPLOLW\ DQG ODFN RI YDQLW\ WKDQ KHU DFWXDO UHVXP¨ 'LHKDUG =D\Q IDQV ZLOO EH TXLFN WR FORFN KHU IRU KHU DSSHDUDQFH DORQJVLGH *LJL +DGLG LQ KLV ʕʓʔ PXVLF YLGHR IRU ŝ3LOORZWDONŞ DQG LW ZDV EHFDXVH RI SURMHFWV OLNH WKHVH WKDW VKH GHFLGHG WR WU\ DFWing. Even so, Turner-Smith admits that she’s always been a storyteller, animatedly describing how,when shewas youngHU VKH XVHG WR IDEULFDWH IDLU\ WDOHV IRU KHU PRWKHU DQG KDV continued the tradition with her daughter. Turner-Smith takes a similar approach tored-carpet dressLQJ ŝ, DOZD\V ORRN DW FORWKHV DQG WKLQN WR P\VHOIffl Ś:KR LV VKH" :KDWśV KHU HQHUJ\"śŞ VKH VD\V $FFRUGLQJ WR WKH LQWHUQHWVKHśVDERQDGHIDVKLRQLFRQ7KHVWDURITheIndependent PDGH JOREDO KHDGOLQHVWKLV SDVW $XJXVW IRUVHUYLQJ GDULQJ DQG dazzling looks on the Venice International Film Festival red FDUSHW $QG WKDQNV WR WKH KHOS RI KHU VW\OLVWV :D\PDQ 0LFDK KHU RXWWV KDYH RQO\ JRWWHQ ELJJHU DQG EROGHU “Babe, I’m a Virgo, so I’m constantly sending my stylists SKRWRV RI WKLQJV , OLNHŞ VKH VKDUHV WDONLQJ DERXW KHU FROODERUDWLYH SURFHVV 7KRVH LWHPVMXVW GRQśW QHFHVVDULO\ DOO ORRN WKH same. “Everything I wearis about bringing my personality to WKH IRUHIURQW RIWKLQJV DQG WKHUHśV D OHJLRQRIZRPHQZKR OLYH LQVLGH PHŞ VKH ODXJKV ŝ,WśV DERXW IHHOLQJ FRPIRUWDEOH LQ P\ VNLQřQRW DFWXDO FRPIRUWřDQG WHOOLQJ WKHLU VWRU\ $QG VRPH VWRULHV DUH MDJJHG DQG SDLQIXOŞ 2QH FRXOG DOVR DUJXH WKDW LQ WHUPV RI SUHJQDQF\ VW\OH 7XUQHU6PLWKZDONHG VR5LKDQQD FRXOG UXQ:KLOH SUHJQDQW ZLWK KHU GDXJKWHU LQ ʕʓʔ 7XUQHU6PLWK UHJXODUO\ UHEHOOHG DJDLQVWWUDGLWLRQDOPDWHUQLW\ZHDUE\ URFNLQJWWHGVLOKRXHWWHV DQG WUHQG\ VHSDUDWHV 8QIRUWXQDWHO\ QRW HYHU\RQH ZDV VXSSRUWLYH $ǟHU VKH DSSHDUHG RQ The Graham Norton Show in ʕʓʕʓZHDULQJ D FURS WRSWKH DFWRUZDVVHYHUHO\ ERG\ VKDPHG E\8.IDQV DQGPHGLDRXWOHWVIRUGDULQJ WREDUH KHU SUHJQDQW EHOO\ 1HYHU RQH WR QRW VSHDN KHU PLQG 7XUQHU6PLWK FODSSHG EDFN RQ 7ZLWWHU SRVWLQJ D SKRWR RI WKH RXWW ZLWK WKH FDSWLRQ ŝ*LYHV ]HUR I FNV DERXW \RXU GLVGDLQ IRU SUHJQDQW women’s bodies in British television.” Three years later, Turner-Smith reiterates that she’s never EHHQ VK\ DERXW H[SUHVVLQJ KHUVHOI EXW VKH KDV WR EH FRQVFLRXV RI KRZ VKHśV SHUFHLYHG ŝ(YHU\WKLQJ , VD\ DQG GR EHFRPHV D politicalstatement because I’m a dark-skinned Black woman OLYLQJ LQ $PHULFD DQG PDUULHG WR D ZKLWH PDQŞ VKH VKDUHV UHIHUHQFLQJKHUDQGKHUKXVEDQGśVKRPHEDVHLQ/$ŝ7KHUHśV D GLƨHUHQW OHYHO RI VFUXWLQ\Ş 6KHśV TXLFN WR FODULI\ WKDW WKLV LVQśW KHU IHHOLQJ VRUU\ IRU KHUVHOI EXW LQVWHDG KHU ŝMXVW DFNQRZOHGJLQJ D SDUW RI UHDOLW\Ş , WHOO 7XUQHU6PLWK WKDW WKLV VRXQGV H[KDXVWLQJff VKH YHU\ TXLFNO\ DJUHHV UHYHDOLQJ WKDW LW FDQ EH %XW HYHU WKH RSWLPLVW VKH GRHVQśW GZHOO RQ LWIRUORQJ ŝ, GRQśW KDYH FRQWURO RYHU KRZ theworld seesme,” she says. “I’mgoing tomakemistakes, but LQWHJULW\LVRZQLQJ WKDW DQGFKRRVLQJ IURPPRPHQWWRPRPHQW WR EH WKH KLJKHVW YHUVLRQ RI P\VHOIŞ :KLFK LV KRZ VKH JRW LQYROYHG LQ WKH FKDULWLHV (TXDOLW\ 1RZ D IHPLQLVW RUJDQL]DWLRQ JKWLQJ WR SURWHFW WKH ULJKWV RI ZRPHQ DQG JLUOV DURXQG WKH ZRUOG DQG 6DPEXUX *LUOV )RXQGDWLRQ ZKLFK LV IRFXVHG RQ HQGLQJ IHPDOH JHQLWDO PXWLODWLRQ DQG FKLOG PDUULDJH LQ .HQ\D ŝ$Q\ DQG HYHU\ GD\ WKDW , KDYH DQ RSSRUWXQLW\ WR KHOS ZRPHQ DQG JLUOV LV D GD\ WKDW ,śP JRLQJ WR JKW WR GR WKDWŞ VKH HPSKDVL]HV ŝ,śP FHUWDLQO\ QRW DVIDPRXV DV D .DUGDVKLDQ or a billionaire, but I am someone in the public eye who can KDYH FRQYHUVDWLRQV WKDW FDQ LQXHQFH ODUJHU FRQYHUVDWLRQV WKDW FDQ KRSHIXOO\ PRYH WKH QHHGOHŞ $QG HYHQ DǟHUKHUVWULQJRIVXFFHVVIXO FRPHGLHV EHLQJ FDVW in the hotly anticipated new Star Wars series TheAcolyte(reOHDVH GDWH VWLOO 7%' UXOLQJ WKH UHG FDUSHW DQG JKWLQJ IRU ZRPHQśVULJKWV 7XUQHU6PLWK GRHVQśW FRQVLGHU KHUVHOI D UROH model. “I’ma human being, and Ithink that everyone should ZDQW WR EH D JRRG KXPDQ EHLQJŞ VKH VD\V WKRXJKWIXOO\ Her priority right now, however, is getting back to her daughter, whose patience has clearly run out as she can once DJDLQ EH KHDUG FDOOLQJ IRU KHU PRP LQ WKH EDFNJURXQG $ IHZ VLOO\ FRPPHQWV DQGODXJKVODWHU7XUQHU6PLWK KDVORJJHGRƨ but I realize that I’m still looking at my computer screen and VPLOLQJff,UHFDOO DQ HDUOLHU SRLQW LQ RXU FRQYHUVDWLRQ ZKHQ VKH VKDUHGffl ŝ, WKLQN ZKHQ \RX VHH VRPHRQH ZKR LV JHQXLQHO\ KDYLQJ D JRRG WLPH LWśV LQIHFWLRXV 7KHUHśV VRPHWKLQJ YHU\ SRZHUIXO DERXW HQMR\LQJ OLIHŞ ,QGHHG WKHUH LV EVERYTHING I WEAR IS ABOUT BRINGING MY PERSONALITY TO THE FOREFRONT OF THINGS. 74 MARCH 2023 INSPO COVER STORY
Top, $10,000, skirt, $8,900, bra, $775, and briefs, $595, Miu Miu.
Dress, $4,205, and chest plate, $22,365, LaQuan Smith.
Top and skirt, prices upon request, Feben. Boots, $1,870, Bottega Veneta. Hair, Marcia Lee for One Represents/Wella Professionals. Makeup, Bernicia Boateng for AGM. Nails, Lucy Tucker for Louella Belle. Fashion assistants, Maggie Curwin, Molly Ellison and Ellen Reinerstedt. Production assistant, Joshua Onabowu. Digital tech, Alex Cornes. Lighting, Michael O Williams.
dot matrix Photography by LAWRENCE CORTEZ Styling by CHAD BURTON Creative direction by GEORGE ANTONOPOULOS Louis Vuitton and Japanese artist Yayoi Kusama combine their creative signatures for a collab that sparks pure joy. Earrings, $725 for a pair, necklace, $1,930, and bag, $1,410, Louis Vuitton.
Top, $515, pants, $1,090, boots, $2,040, and bag, $5,100, Louis Vuitton.
Jacket, $3,550, and bag, $6,400, Louis Vuitton.
Jacket and pants, prices upon request, and shoes, $1,540, Louis Vuitton Men’s.
Left: Coat, shirt and pants, prices upon request, and shoes, $1,540, Louis Vuitton Men’s. Hat, $880, Louis Vuitton. Right: Top, $1,910, skirt, $2,180, shoes, $1,500, and bag, $8,100, Louis Vuitton. Legwear, stylist’s own.
Shirt, price upon request, and tie, $325, Louis Vuitton Men’s. Earring, $565 for a pair, Louis Vuitton.
Top and pants, prices upon request, shoes, $1,120, and bag, $4,500, Louis Vuitton Men’s. Earring, $725 for a pair, Louis Vuitton.
Dress and shoes, prices upon request, and bag, $8,100, Louis Vuitton. Socks, stylist’s own. Hair, Kristjan Hayden for Cadre Artist Management. Makeup, Sabrina Rinaldi for P1M.ca. Prop styling, Chad Burton for Cadre Artist Management. Photo assistants, Nicolas Emas Varone and Judy Gu. Models, Alice Yamagishi for Ciotti Models Toronto and Kai Luk-Laughton for Elite Toronto.
POWER MOVES “I loved the Spice Girls and also designer Betsey Johnson,” says Vasquez of a few of her early style inspirations, all well known for their attention-getting garments—and attitudes to match. Given these references, it’s no surprise that there’s also a pair of nostalgia-inducing Powerpuff Girls-themed platforms in her closet. The style in Chattanooga, Tenn., might be outdoorsy and granola, but Regan Vasquez is anything but. “My best friend, whom I live with, and I are both very maximalist when it comes to fashion,” Vasquez explains over a video call from her colourful bedroom. “We know when we walk into a place that we’re going to be the craziest-dressed people there. But we NLQG RI IHHG Rƨ RI LWŞ Foremost in Vasquez’s OTT wardrobe is her collection of around ʓ SDLUV RI SODWIRUP VKRHV +HU WKUHH everyday go-tos are solid black, white and blue, but it’s the novelty designs that excite her the most. Standouts include a barnyard-themed style ZLWK ʖ' DQLPDOV DQG D +DOORZHHQ purchase with see-through bottoms WKDW FDQ EH OOHG ZLWK 6NLWWOHV RU DQ\ other amusing assortment of items). “I’ve always loved shoes, even when I was a young girl,” Vasquez says. “But I hated kids shoes because they weren’t ‘cool’ to me.” Platforms LQWULJXH KHU EHFDXVH ŝWKH\ DUH GLƨHUent,” she explains. “They’re a style with wacky colourways and patterns. You can do things with a platform that you can’t do with a stiletto.” Vasquez’s impeccably dressed JUDQGPRWKHU ERXJKW KHU KHU UVW pair of high heels when Vasquez ZDV D SUHWHHQ +LODU\ 'Xƨ DQG KHU DWIRUPZHDULQJ /L]]LH 0F*XLUH character and the Tumblr-centric rise Videographer and content creator Regan Vasquez’s punchy platforms reflect her uplifting personality. By ODESSA PALOMA PARKER Lofty Living INSPO COLLECTING 86 MARCH 2023
SWEETSURRENDER No look is too bold for Vasquez, who says her colleagues love it when she shows up at the office wearing her novelty wardrobe items. Major crowd-pleasers include Sugar Thrillz’s watermelon-design platforms and a watermelon bag by New York-based brand Susan Alexandra. STACKEDUP A penchant for shoes that pop means that Vasquez has not one but two “if money were no object” shoe purchases she’d like to make: the infamous Chanel boots from The Devil Wears Prada and Elle Woods’s pink platforms from Legally Blonde. WITHTHE GANG “Some people are really impressed, while others look at me like I’m an alien or something,” says Vasquez about her collection. “But I don’t care how people react.” TAKINGIT INSTRIDE “Don’t get so caught up in trends,” Vasquez advises. “They are always coming and going. Try to find what you like simply because you like it. People are always going to have something negative to say, but your own opinion is really the only one that matters.” PHOTOGRAPHY BY RANDI VASQUEZ. MAKEUP, BAILEY GOSS. COLLECTING INSPO MARCH 2023 87
RISEANDSHINE “I actually use what I collect,” Vasquez says of her array of whimsical accessories. She’s even been known to buy two of the same pair—one to wear out to clubs and the other to keep nicer for daywear and display. She’s also mindful of maintaining her pieces, noting that makeup-remover wipes have been useful for getting rid of scuffs after a night out. SUGARHIGH Vasquez says the possibilities are endless in terms of what she can fill these clear-soled shoes from YRU with. She purchased them as part of her Willy Wonka Halloween costume. RIDINGHIGH Vasquez recalls wearing these pasture-printed platforms from a Delia’s by Dolls Kill collection to a bachelorette party with a cowgirl theme. “The people in my life expect me to have a shoe for every occasion,” she notes. PHOTOGRAPHY BY RANDI VASQUEZ. MAKEUP, BAILEY GOSS. ASSEMBLY LINE Vasquez shops mostly online because bricksand-mortar stores don’t always stock her size 5. 88 MARCH 2023 INSPO COLLECTING
RI -HƨUH\ &DPSEHOOśV LFRQLF /LWD GHVLJQ ZHUH RWKHU IRUPDWLYH IDVKLRQ PRPHQWV IRU WKH FROOHFWRU 6LQFH VKHśV RQO\ IRXU IHHW WDOO 9DVTXH]śV REVHVVLRQ FRXOG EH H[SODLQHG DV D GHVLUH WR EH WDOOHU %XW VKH VD\V WKH OLǟ LV D SHUN UDWKHU WKDQ D JRDO ŝ,W ZDV PRUH WKDW , ZDQWHG WR EH OLNH P\ PRP VLVWHU DQG JUDQGPDŞ VKH VD\V ŝ0\ VLVWHUśV HPDLO ZKHQ ZH ZHUH OLWWOH NLGV ZDV OLWHUDOO\ ŚSLQNPHWDOOLFSXPSVś :H ZHUH MXVW YHU\ FHQWUHG RQ IDVKLRQŞ 9DVTXH] UHFDOOV GD\ORQJ VKRSSLQJ WULSV ZLWK KHU PRP DQG VLVWHU WKDW HQGHG ZLWK IDVKLRQ VKRZV LQ WKH OLYLQJ URRP IRU KHU GDG $QG WKH VWRU\ RI KHU JUDQGPDśV ʔ ʚʓV KLNH LQ WKH *UDQG &DQ\RQ ZKHUH VKH ZRUH SODWIRUP VKRHV DQG FXW KHU MXPSVXLW LQWR D URPSHU EHFDXVH RI WKH KHDW LV SDUW RI WKH IDPLO\śV ORUH 9DVTXH] VD\V VKH GRHV KDYH RQH SDLU RI UXQQLQJ VKRHV WR ZRUN RXW LQ %XW HYHU\WKLQJ HOVH LV WKLFNVROHG DQG IXQ ZKHWKHU VKHśV JRLQJ WR WKH EHDFK RU RQ D PRXQWDLQ KLNH 6KH HYHQ DWWDFKHG FUDPSRQV LFH FOHDWV WR D SDLU RI =DUD DWIRUP VQHDNHUV IRU D JODFLHU ZDON LQ ,FHODQG 9DVTXH]śV SDVVLRQ IRU URFNLQJ FRQYHUVDWLRQVWDUWLQJ VROHV KDV JDUQHUHG KHU TXLWH WKH IROORZLQJ RQ 7LN7RN 7KHUH VKH VKDUHV KHU HYHUJURZLQJ FROOHFWLRQ ZLWK DQ DXGLHQFH RI RYHU ʕʓʓʓ IROORZHUV &ROOHDJXHV DW WKH FDVW LURQVNLOOHW FRPSDQ\ ZKHUH VKH ZRUNV DV D YLGHRJUDSKHU LQ WKH PDUNHWLQJ GHSDUWPHQW DOVR JHW D NLFN RXW RI KHU TXLUN\ VW\OH ŝ, GHQLWHO\ SXVK WKH FRUSRUDWHGUHVVFRGH HQYHORSHŞ VKH DGPLWV %XW WKDWśV QRWKLQJ QHZ ŝ, DOZD\V GLG SXVK WKH HQYHORSH HYHQ DV D NLGŞ 9DVTXH] UHFDOOV ŝ, ZDVQśW DOZD\V FRPIRUWDEOH ZLWK LW IRU VXUH :KHQ , ZDV LQ KLJK VFKRRO 7XPEOU ZDV UHDOO\ WDNLQJ Rƨ $OO WKHVH IDVKLRQ EORJJHUV ZHUH JHWWLQJ SRSXODU DQG , ZDQWHG WR VWDUW GUHVVLQJ GLƨHUHQWO\ +DOI RI PH ZDV H[FLWHG EXW WKH RWKHU KDOI ZDV VFDUHG EHFDXVH , ZDV PDGH IXQ RI DW VFKRRO , ZRUH D SDLU RI VHTXLQHG 8JJ ERRWV ZLWK P\ VFKRRO XQLIRUP DQG , UHPHPEHU HYHU\RQH EHLQJ OLNH Ś:KDW LV VKH ZHDULQJ"ś $QG ZKHQ FRPEDW ERRWV ZHUH VWDUWLQJ WR FRPH RQWR WKH KRUL]RQ , KDG D SDLU RI VDWLQ %HWVH\ -RKQVRQ RQHV ZLWK UXƬHV DQG WKRXJKW WKH\ ZHUH WKH FRROHVW WKLQJV RQ HDUWK %XW , UHPHPEHU P\ IULHQGV PDNLQJ IXQ RI PHŞ ,Q WLPH 9DVTXH] JDLQHG VWUHQJWK IURP WKH ZRPHQ DURXQG KHUffl ŝ0\ PRP JUDQGPD DQG VLVWHU ZHUH DOZD\V YHU\ FRQGHQW LQ WKH ZD\ WKH\ FDUULHG WKHPVHOYHV DQG , PLPLFNHG WKDW FRQGHQFH XQWLO , UHDOO\ VWDUWHG WR IHHO LWŞ ŝ1RZ WKDW ,śP ʕ , MXVW GRQśW FDUH DQ\PRUHŞ WKH FROOHFWRU GHFODUHV ŝ7KH SHRSOH LQ P\ OLIH H[SHFW PH WR KDYH D VWDWHPHQW SLHFH $QG , ORYH WKDW WKLV KDV EHFRPH P\ VLJQDWXUHŞ PLATFORM PARTY “Two questions that I get asked the most are ‘How do you walk in them?’ and ‘Where did you find those?’” says Vasquez about how others react to her droll footwear. MARCH 2023 89 COLLECTING INSPO
Weighing in at nearly 1.5 kilograms and taking “weeks of painstaking fine-motor work”to finish, the Dream Corset by artisanal brand Moyo by Bibi was made to be fantasized about. The curvaceous piece features a mix of beads and Swarovski crystals decadently arranged in a manner similar to that of traditional African accessories. It was inspired by designer Bibi Ahmed’s desire to capture the regal essence of the bodices worn by “Greek goddesses and European royalty” while giving a nod to her Kenyan background. “I was dreaming of a piece for my Royal Goddesses,” says the Mombasa-born, U.K.-based Ahmed, who creates jobs in Africa and Britain to help women rise out of poverty. “Using traditional Maasai beading is the perfect way to make this dream come true.” CinchingAlong TEXT BY ODESSA PALOMA PARKER. CORSET, $5,375, MOYO BY BIBI. INSPO Ƅ IT FOREVER 90 MARCH 2023
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