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Discover... VOILA! 20 NEWS Louis Vuitton births a baby collection, Marc Jacobs hooks up with Fendi, a TikTok must-see and more. 22ASKANNIKA Advice on how to wear the slip-dresses, corsets and frilly tops that are defining the mermaidcore moment. 24 GET TO KNOW Queer Indigenous activist and filmmaker Sarain Fox is ensuring that both youth and elders have their voices heard. 26 SIGNATURES Designer brands are claiming a single hue as their very own, from Hermès orange to Bottega green and more. 28 DNA Maria Karimi’s Afghan and Indian backgrounds come together in her joyful designs for Mindful Pigs. 30 WRISTACTION Rainbow colours that can help you show your Pride year-round. 32 JEWELLERY 101 Before widespread literacy, signet rings were used for “signing” deeds and other important documents. 34 OUT OF OFFICE Annika Lautens heads to Miami for the starstudded Boss Spring 2023 runway show. 36 PUSHBACK Lydia Okello wonders why ideas around gender-fluid fashion are 86 so narrow-minded. SU M M ER 202 3 PHOTOGRAPHY BY LAWRENCE CORTEZ
On the Cover Dress (worn on top), $20,310, gloves (worn on top), $3,970, and dress (worn underneath) and gloves (worn underneath), prices upon request, Bottega Veneta. 38 MERCH Filmy fabrics, silk shirts, swimwear and sunnies. 44 FASHION XPETVALU Your fur baby can join in the wedding-party fun thanks to the new Bailey & Bella collection. 49 DETAILS MadByMad’s edible bioplastic leather is a feast for the eyes. CANVAS 52 SHELFIE A vitamin C stick, a refillable mascara and a sculpting bronzer. 53 TREND Lauren Knowles explores the science behind colour-changing makeup. 54 REGIMENS Two-Spirit Indigenous drag queen Chelazon Leroux is on a mission to bring acceptance to the wider world. 56 TEXTURE TALK Siphesihle November is breaking ballet boundaries with his natural locs. 58 MY TATTOOS For Toronto musician and TikTok star Dom Gabriel, tattoos are a visual diary of his life. 60 TRAILBLAZERS These beauty brands are committed to uplifting communities through initiatives that give back. INSPO 66 TRENDSETTER Myles Sexton moved out of the city to have a more balanced life. But that doesn’t mean their influence is any less powerful. PHOTOGRAPHY: RINGS (TOP TO BOTTOM) COURTESY OF MARLO LAZ, MAISON BIRKS AND DEBORAH PAGANI; BACKGROUND VIA ISTOCK. 76 COVER STORY Pom Klementieff, who is starring in two of summer’s biggest blockbusters, is a thrill-seeker both on and off the red carpet. 86 COLLECTING Gregory Grist has more than 200 pairs of glasses—even though his eyesight is nearly perfect. 90 Ƅ IT FOREVER A temptation with till-deathdo-us-part potential. What’ s Inside 32
PHOTOGRAPHY AND STYLING BY GEORGE ANTONOPOULOS. ROBE, $900, LESLEY HAMPTON. EARRINGS, $60, COS. RINGS (LEFT), $50 FOR TWO, H&M. TOP, PANTS AND RING (RIGHT), MORRA’S OWN. “WHO AM I?”It is a basic question and one that should have a quick answer. But for so many, it is not. Identity can be an evolving thing, especially for people whose self-knowledge has been VWLHG RU ZKRVH FXOWXUH KDV EHHQ WKH WDUJHW RI attempted annihilation. 7KLV LV ZKDW WKH ,QGLJHQRXV DQG /*%74,$ʕ6 communities have in common. Members of both have been marginalized, victimized and traumatized. That really became clear as I sat at a dinner RQH HYHQLQJ ZLWK ,QGLJHQRXV DFWLYLVW 6DUDLQ )R[ 6KH WROG PH KRZ DQQR\HG VKH LV WKDW 3ULGH KLWV at the same time as National Indigenous History Month. The two causes end up competing, she believes, for eyes and ears and, perhaps most LPSRUWDQWO\ VSRQVRUVKLS GROODUV $QG VLQFH )R[ LV ERWK ,QGLJHQRXV DQG TXHHU LWśV D FRQLFW VKH IHHOV strongly about. However, she tells writer Kelly %RXWVDOLV LQ ŝ*HW WR .QRZŞ SDJH ʕʗ ŝZH DUH starting to see...more curiosity about how our two communities can align with, protect and become allies for one another.” 7ZR6SLULW ,QGLJHQRXV GUDJ TXHHQ &KHOD]RQ /HURX[ LV DOVR SXVKLQJ IRU UHVSHFW DQG XQGHUVWDQGLQJ ZKLFK VKH VD\V H[LVWHG LQ SUHFRORQLDO WLPHV “My ancestors believed that everyone had a right to be here; we’re just trying to restore that way RI WKLQNLQJŞ /HURX[ WHOOV DFWLQJ EHDXW\ GLUHFWRU 6RX]DQ 0LFKDHO *DOZD\ LQ ŝ([SUHVV <RXUVHOIŞ SDJH ʘʗ /HURX[ KDV EXLOW D IROORZLQJ RI PRUH WKDQ ʘʓʓʓʓʓ E\ VKDULQJ KHU PDNHXS WXWRULDOV DQG KHU ORYH RI GUDJ DQG FRPHG\ DOO GHOLYHUHG ZLWK DQ ŝXQDSRORgetically Indigenous” attitude. “I have to reclaim it because my ancestors didn’t have that right,” she declares of her heritage. /HURX[ KDV DFTXLUHG SUROHYHO PDNHXS VNLOOV RQ KHU MRXUQH\ DQG KDV VRPH VWURQJ RSLQLRQV RQ SURGXFWV ZKLFK VKH DOVR VKDUHV )RU 1DWLRQDO %DOOHW RI &DQDGD SULQFLSDO GDQFHU 6LSKHVLKOH 1RYHPEHU DFWLYLVP KDV PDQLIHVWHG WKURXJK KLV KDLU ŝ5RRW )RUFHŞ SDJH ʘ %\ NHHSLQJ KLV ORFV DQG VD\LQJ QR WR ZLJV 1RYHPEHU LV FKDQJLQJ WKH ORRN RI FODVVLFDO EDOOHW IRU JHQHUDWLRQV WR FRPH $QG LI DQ\RQH KDV D SUREOHP ZLWK WKDW KH VKRRWV EDFN ZLWK TXHVWLRQV OLNH ŝ'LG P\ QDWXUDO KDLU DƨHFW P\ SHUIRUPDQFH"Ş DQG ŝ'LG LW DƨHFW \RXU HQMR\PHQW RI LW"Ş $V KH WHOOV EHDXW\ GLUHFWRU 1DWDVKD %RDWHQJ QLQH WLPHV RXW RI ʔʓ WKH DQVZHUV DUH QR %XVWLQJ WKURXJK UHVWULFWLYH DQG GHHSURRWHG H[SHFWDWLRQV LV D ZRUNLQSURJUHVV :HśYH FRPH D ORQJ ZD\ RYHU WKH SDVW IHZ \HDUV EXW WKHUH LV VWLOO D ORQJ URDG DKHDG (YHQ WKH ZRUOG RI JHQGHUXLG IDVKLRQ LV EHLQJ FDOOHG RXW IRU EHLQJ QDUURZPLQGHG LQ LWV GHVLJQV ŝ7KRVH ZKR LGHQWLI\ LQ WKH JHQGHUXLG VSHFWUXP KDYH D PXOWLWXGH RI DSSURDFKHV WR KRZ WKHLU JHQGHU LV H[SUHVVHGřD IDFW WKDW LV QRW DQ\ GLƨHUHQW IURP IRONV ZKR LGHQWLI\ DV FLVŞ /\GLD 2NHOOR ZULWHV LQ ŝ%HQGLQJ %LQDULHVŞ SDJH ʖ ŝ0\ ORYH RI SLQN DQG WXOOH GRHVQśW QXOOLI\ P\ LGHQWLW\ DV D QRQELQDU\ SHUVRQff LW LV P\ RZQ SHUVRQDOL]HG H[SUHVVLRQŞ 2Q WKH RQH KDQG WKH ZRUOG WRGD\ IHHOV FRPSOLFDWHG 2Q WKH RWKHU LWśV SUHWW\ VWUDLJKWIRUZDUGffl :H QHHG PRUH ORYH DQG UHVSHFW DOO DURXQG (LWKHU ZD\ LWśV QR ZRQGHU WKHUH UHPDLQV D KHDOWK\ PDUNHW IRU +ROO\ZRRG HVFDSLVP 2XU FRYHU VWDU 3RP .OHPHQWLHƨ LV VWDUULQJ LQ WZR RI VXPPHUśV ELJJHVW EORFNEXVWHUVffl *XDUGLDQV RI WKH*DOD[\9RO ʖ RXW QRZ DQG 0LVVLRQffl,PSRVVLEOHř'HDG 5HFNRQLQJ 3DUW 2QH SUHPLHULQJ LQ -XO\ $QG ZKLOH VKH ZDV ERUQ LQ 4XHEHF &LW\ .OHPHQWLHƨ LV QRW &DQDGLDQ +RZśV WKDW IRU D ELW RI DQ LGHQWLW\ LVVXH" 5HDG DOO DERXW WKLV KDUGZRUNLQJ WKULOOVHHNLQJ IDVKLRQ ORYHU VWDUWLQJ RQ SDJH ʚ Bernadette Morra, Editor-in-Chief @bernadettemorra [email protected] FASHION EDITOR'S LETTER 14 SUMMER 2023
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KISS & TELL No date for Pride? No problem. Let this tulle top from the Dior Men Spring 2023 collection be your plus one (or two!). This season, artistic director Kim Jones looked to early-20th-century British artist Duncan Grant for inspiration, repurposing some of his paintings onto otherwise minimalist menswear pieces. Whether you wear this top on its own or with something underneath, love is sure to follow you wherever you go. TEXT BY ANNIKA LAUTENS. PHOTOGRAPHY VIA LAUNCHMETRICS.COM/SPOTLIGHT. TOP, $5,500, DIOR MEN. P E O P L E • P I E C E S • P E R S P E C T I V E S Dior Men Spring 2023
T hanks to the rise of child influencers like @coco_pinkprincess, it’s no longer enough just to have a cute kid—you must also have a fashionable one. Enter Louis Vuitton’s first baby collection, a super-soft assortment of clothing, shoes, accessories and toys decorated with iconic emblems of the house. Crafted in a pretty palette of whites, creams, sands, greys and yellows, onesies and teddy bears have never looked chicer and are sure to impress on the most sophisticated playgrounds. Baby Steps VOILA! NEWS 20 SUMMER 2023
MIXEDBAGAt a time when Fendi’s designer collaborations have reached a fever pitch, its new partnership with Marc Jacobs is an undeniable highlight. As part of the Fendi Baguette’s 25th-anniversary celebrations, the Italian luxury house enlisted the talents of the American designer to reinvent the iconic bag and other Fendi staples. The results are a romance between uptown chic and downtown cool and add new life to old favourites. TEXT BY ANNIKA LAUTENS. PHOTOGRAPHY: (THIS PAGE) STONE VIA GETTY/STEFANIA M. D’ALESSANDRO/ STRINGER; FENDI X MARC JACOBS COURTESY OF FENDI; BEAD N’ BUTTER COURTESY OF BEAD N’ BUTTER; (OPPOSITE PAGE) LOUIS VUITTON COURTESY OF LOUIS VUITTON. THE BUTTERFLY EFFECT As the Y2K resurgence has proven, you’re never too old to wear a butterfly-inspired accessory. Look to Bead n’ Butter’s newest earring collection as your guide to mastering the trend beyond your preteens. The pieces are handmade by Jessie Pruden, a disabled queer Métis artist from Manitoba who uses brightly coloured glass Miyuki seed beads to emulate the intricate patterns of the insect’s wings. Pair them with a white halter and you’ll be flightready in no time. It’s said that imitation is the sincerest form of flattery, so Jennifer Coolidge should be feeling extremely flattered after drag artist Alexis Stone impersonated her at the Diesel Fall 2023 show in February. To see the magic behind the madness, head to Stone’s TikTok, @thealexisstone, where she reveals how she applied the prosthetics and makeup. And if you’d like to venture further into her wax museumesque catalogue of iconic figures, a few scrolls will lead you to Stone’s Dolly Parton, Pete Davidson and an especially campy Mrs. Doubtfire. TIKTOK HOT TAKE: @THEALEXISSTON E NEWS VOILA! SUMMER 2023 21
When I was four, my life’s goal was to be a PHUPDLGřZHOO WHFKQLFDOO\ D ŝIDLU\ SULQFHVV PHUPDLGŞ ,śYH DOZD\V EHHQ D ELW RI DQ RYHUDFKLHYHU 7XUQV RXW , wasn’t alone in my under-the-sea GUHDPV 7KH ILUVW WUDLOHU IRU WKH OLYHDFWLRQ The Little Mermaid GXH LQ WKHDWUHV WKLV 0D\ FXUUHQWO\ KDV QHDUO\ ʖʓ PLOOLRQ YLHZV DQG PHUPDLGFRUH WKH QHZHVW PLFUR WUHQG WDNLQJ RYHU DZDUGV VKRZV UXQZD\V DQG VRFLDO PHGLD KDV DOPRVW GRXEOH WKDW RQ 7LN7RN &RLQFLGHQFH" , WKLQN QRW 7KDW VDLG GHVLJQHUV KDYH KDG WKH GHVLUH WR EUHDWKH XQGHUZDWHU IRU TXLWH VRPH WLPH 7KH TXLQWHVVHQWLDO PHUPDLG VLOKRXHWWH LV WKRXJKW WR KDYH EHHQ FUHDWHG E\ )UHQFK FRXWXULHU 0DUFHO 5RFKDV LQ WKH ʔʖʓV DQG FHPHQWHG LQ IDVKLRQDEOH FLUFOHV E\ -HDQ 3DWRX ZKRVH DTXDWLFLQVSLUHG JRZQ DSSHDUHG LQ D ʔʖʖ LVVXH RI Vogue 6LQFH WKHQ WKH siren style has taken many forms, but it re-entered the PDLQVWUHDP LQ ʕʓʕʔ ZLWK 9HUVDFH DQG %XUEHUU\ PDNLQJ ZDYHV ZLWK WKHLU QDXWLFDO QRYHOWLHV &XW WR 6SULQJ ʕʓʕʖ Not ready to live the full Life Aquatic? Annika Lautens shares how to wade into the proverbial waters of mermaidcore. SirenSong DQG %OXPDULQH (UGHP 9LFWRULD %HFNKDP DQG PDQ\ RWKHUV KDYH DOVR GHFLGHG WR WDNH WKH SOXQJH 0XFK OLNH WKH P\WKLFDO FUHDWXUHV WKH GHflQLQJ PHUPDLGFRUH ORRN LV D OLWWOH HOXVLYH 7KLQN 6DUD 3D[WRQ IURP Aquamarine PL[HG ZLWK 7LN7RNśV YLUDO FRTXHWWH DQG SHDUOFRUH DHVWKHWLFVffl LULGHVFHQW VOLSGUHVVHV ODFHXS WRSV DQG FRUVHWV SHDUO DQG VKHOOLQVSLUHG DFFHVVRULHV VKHHU DQG ODF\ IDEULFV OLJKWEOXH DQG OLODF VHTXLQV DQG RKVRPDQ\ UXƬHV ,I LW IHHOV OLNH D ORW WKDWśV EHFDXVH LW LVřDSSDUHQWO\ QR PLQLPDOLVW PHUPDLGV DUH DOORZHG DERYH ZDWHU %XW LQ JUDQGHU WHUPV WKH WUHQG VSHDNV WR RXU FRPPXQDO QHHG IRU QRVWDOJLD DQG HVFDSLVP 'XULQJ D SHULRG WKDW KDV EHHQ DQ\WKLQJ EXW FRPIRUWLQJ LW SV\FKRORJLFDOO\ PDNHV VHQVH WKDW ZHśYH DOO EHHQ PRUH LQFOLQHG WR UHYHUW WR RXU FKLOGLVK ZD\V 3UHWHQGLQJ WR EH D IDLU\ D SULQFHVV D PHUPDLG RU DOO RI WKH DERYH LV PXFK PRUH IXQ WKDQ WKLQNLQJ DERXW DQ\ RI WKH PDQ\ FULVHV VRFLHW\ LV FXUUHQWO\ IDFLQJ $ǟHU DOO ZKR ZRXOGQśW ZDQW WR EH SDUW RI WKHLU ZRUOG" 5HDG RQ IRU VRPH $ULHODSSURYHG DGYLFH RQ KRZ WR PDNH D VSODVK LQ PHUPDLGFRUHLQVSLUHG ORRNV Blumarine Spring 2023 22 SUMMER 2023 VOILA! ASK ANNIKA
TREASURE TROVE Take the plunge with these under-the-sea-inspired styles. RISE AND SHINE Get your glow on with iridescent materials like silks, satins and sequins—and don’t be afraid to add some Y2K touches. SHEER LEADER The combination of semi-sheer and lace fabrics can make clothes appear soaked—as if, say, you’ve just returned from a quick swim in the sea. FRILL RIDE While their parallels to aquatic algae make ruffles a mermaidcore must, the feminine fashion can easily be worn on land with an oversized blazer. PHOTOGRAPHY: (THIS PAGE) “SHEER LEADER” VIA LAUNCHMETRICS.COM/SPOTLIGHT; “FRILL RIDE” AND “RISE AND SHINE” VIA GETTY; (OPPOSITE PAGE) MAIN COURTESY OF BLUMARINE. J&Co., $95 Pacharee at Net-a-Porter, $650 Mother at Saks Fifth Avenue, $300 Wilfred, $100 Aldo, $120 Celine at Mr Porter, $2,650 Paco Rabanne at Farfetch, $1,235 SUMMER 2023 23 ASK ANNIKA VOILA!
Anishinaabe activist and storyteller Sarain Fox has appeared on Canada’s Drag Race and in ad campaigns for Canada Goose. In her latest documentary, she turns her lens to Indigenous elders, youth and queerness. By KELLY BOUTSALIS Sarain Fox G ET TO KNOW YOU ARE AN ARTIST, AN ACTIVIST, AN AMBASSADOR, A FILMMAKER AND NOW, WITH THE BIRTH OF YOUR SON IN FEBRUARY, A MOTHER OF TWO. IN ALL YOUR WORK, THE GOAL IS ABOUT EMPOWERING INDIGENOUS VOICES. HAS THAT GOAL CHANGED OVER TIME? “I would say it has evolved. In the beginning of P\ FDUHHU , VDZ YHU\ OLWWOH UHSUHVHQWDWLRQ :KHQ WKH &DQDGD *RRVH FDPSDLJQ ZLWK PH DQG P\ PRP FDPH RXW flYH \HDUV DJR LW ZDV WKH flUVW WLPH WKDW PXOWLSOH ,QGLJHQRXV SHRSOH KDG EHHQ IHDWXUHG LQ DQ LQWHUQDWLRQDO ELOOERDUG FDPSDLJQřHYHU Indigenous content wasn’t as hot as it is right now. You look at Ashley Callingbull and Quannah Chasinghorse…. When an ,QGLJHQRXV SHUVRQ KDV VRPHWKLQJ DPD]LQJ JRLQJ RQ ZHśUH UHDOO\ VHHLQJ WKDW JHW DPSOLflHG QRZŞ VOILA! PROFILE 24 SUMMER 2023
PHOTOGRAPHY: MAIN BY BRIONY WILLIAMS; EMME STUDIO BY PATRICK SHANNON; THE BEADED HERO COURTESY OF STEVI RILEY. WHY ARE DOCUMENTARIES THE BEST FORM OF STORYTELLING RIGHT NOW? “When Rise [a TV VHULHV KRVWHG E\ )R[@ FDPH RXW LQ ʕʓʔʚ , ZDV YHU\ DZDUH RI WKH LPSDFW LW KDG KRZ \RXQJ DQG ROG SHRSOH DOLNH IHOW LQVWDQWO\ VHHQ DQG HPSRZHUHG DQG KRZ QRQ,QGLJHQRXV SHRSOH IHOW PRWLYDWHG WR OHDUQ PRUH DQG FRQQHFW 1RZ WKH WZR WKLQJV ,śP REVHVVHG ZLWK FDSWXULQJ DUH \RXQJ SHRSOH DQG HOGHUV 7KDWśV QRW E\ DFFLGHQW 0\ VRQ DQG P\ GDXJKWHU RQO\ KDYH P\ DXQWLH 0DU\ DQG P\ PRWKHU VR , UHDOO\ RQO\ KDYH D GHFDGH WR FDSWXUH DV PDQ\ SLHFHV RI ZKR , DP ZKR WKLV ZRUOG LV DQG ZKR RXU HOGHUV DUH EHIRUH LWśV DOO ORVW IRUHYHU 0DQ , GRQśW NQRZ LI PDQ\ SHRSOH OLYH ZLWK WKDW NLQG RI SUHVVXUH EXW P\ UHDFWLRQ WR LW LV WR PDNH GRFXPHQWDULHV DQG SXW WKHP RXW DV TXLFNO\ DV SRVVLEOHŞ YOUR LATEST DOCUMENTARY, VERACITY: INDIGIQUEER, FOLLOWS BANAISE-KWE HENRY, A YOUTH FROM KETTLE AND STONY POINT FIRST NATION. WHAT DID IT FEEL LIKE TO MAKE THIS FILM? ŝ,W FRQflUPHG ZKDW ,śYH DOZD\V NQRZQffl WKDW FRORQL]DWLRQ EURXJKW WKH ODEHOV DQG (QJOLVK WHUPLQRORJ\ DERXW JHQGHU DQG LW HYHQ EURXJKW WKH FORVHW PHWDSKRUL FDOO\ DQG OLWHUDOO\řZH GLGQśW KDYH FORVHWV , DOVR UHDOO\ IHOW WKH ZHLJKW RI WKH UHVSRQVLELOLW\ RI FDUU\LQJ %DQDLVHśV VWRU\ :H ZHUH JRLQJ WR IROORZ KHU DV VKH FDPH RXW WR HYHU\RQH EXW WKDW QHYHU KDSSHQHG DQG , ORYH WKDW LW GLGQśW %HFDXVH WKDWśV QRW KRZ LW KDSSHQV 7KHVH ELJ PRPHQWV KDSSHQ VORZO\ DQG ELW E\ ELWŞ IN JUNE, WE’RE CELEBRATING PRIDE AND NATIONAL INDIGENOUS HISTORY MONTH. HOW DO YOU VIEW THIS TIME, BEING BOTH QUEER AND INDIGENOUS? ŝ, DOZD\V FDOO LW P\ EXVLHVW PRQWK RI WKH \HDU $V , UHFODLP P\ LGHQWLW\ PRUH DQG PRUH , GRQśW VHSDUDWH P\ ,QGLJHQHLW\ IURP P\ TXHHUQHVV , ZDQW WR HPERG\ 3ULGH DQG ,QGLJHQRXV SHRSOHV PRQWK DV RQH LGHQWLW\ (YHQ LQ WKH TXHHU FRPPXQLW\ ZH DUH VWDUWLQJ WR VHH PRUH VSDFH EHLQJ PDGH DQG PRUH DFFHSWDQFH DQG PRUH FXULRVLW\ DERXW KRZ RXU WZR FRPPXQLWLHV FDQ DOLJQ ZLWK SURWHFW DQG EHFRPH DOOLHV IRU RQH DQRWKHUŞ DID YOU HAVE ANY QUEER INDIGENOUS REPRESENTATION TO LOOK UP TO? ŝ1R :KHQ , ZDV ʔʘ , PRYHG WR 7RURQWRśV &KXUFK 6WUHHW LQ WKH KHDUW RI WKH 9LOODJH DQG P\ SURWHFWRUV ZHUH DOO TXHHQV 6R PXFK RI WKH PDJLF RI WKDW PRPHQW IRU PH DQG P\ VDIHW\ ZDV D TXHHU FRPPXQLW\ , WKLQN OHVV DERXW ,QGLJHQRXV TXHHUQHVV DQG PRUH OLNH WKH ZKROH VFHQH ZDV ZKDW , KDG WR ORRN XS WRŞ WHAT HAS YOUR OWN QUEER JOURNEY BEEN LIKE? ŝ, LGHQWLI\ DV XLG /*%74ʕ6 LV DQ (QJOLVK DFURQ\P DQG ,śYH UHDOO\ IRXQG P\ IUHHGRP LQ OHWWLQJ JR RI WKH FRORQLDO LGHDV RI TXHHUQHVV ZKLFK KDYH EHHQ YHU\ KXUW IXO :LWKLQ P\ RZQ IDPLO\ ,śYH DOZD\V IHOW OLNH , EHORQJ , GRQśW KDYH VRPH ELJ FRPLQJRXW VWRU\ EHFDXVH , MXVW IHHO OLNH ,śYH DOZD\V EHHQ DV , DP , ZDV H[SRVHG WR TXHHUQHVV IURP D YHU\ \RXQJ DJHřTXHHU FRXSOHV DQG TXHHU IDPLOLHV ,śP JUDWHIXO IRU WKDW QDUUDWLYH H[LVWLQJ EHFDXVH ,śYH DOZD\V IHOW QRUPDO LQ P\ RZQ VNLQ ŝ, ZDV EXOOLHG EHFDXVH ,śP ,QGLJHQRXV VR IRU D YHU\ ORQJ WLPH WKHUH ZDV QR ZD\ , ZDV JRLQJ WR LGHQWLI\ DV TXHHU EHFDXVH , ZDV DOUHDG\ flJKWLQJ WKH RWKHULQJ RI EHLQJ ,QGLJHQRXV , KDG WR flQG KRZ WR EOXU WKDW LQWHUVHFWLRQ LQ P\ RZQ OLIH WR flQG IUHHGRP , IHHO OLNH VRFLHW\ FDQ VHH P\ TXHHUQHVV DQG DFFHSW LW ZKHQ ,śP ZLWK D ZRPDQ DQG WKH\ KDYH D KDUG WLPH VHHLQJ DQG DFFHSWLQJ LW ZKHQ ,śP LQ D UHODWLRQVKLS ZLWK D PDQ ZKR GRHVQśW LGHQWLI\ DV VWUDLJKW 7KDWśV EHHQ WKH KDUGHVW IRU PH DV , KDYH WKH IDPLO\ , ORYHŞ YOU HAVE WHAT LOOKS LIKE A “TRADITIONAL FAMILY” ON THE OUTSIDE, BUT HOW SHOULD WE UNDERSTAND THAT? ŝ4XHHU IRONV DUH WU\LQJ WR GLVPDQWOH ELQDULHV \HW ZH DUH VWLOO WUDSSHG LQ WKHP )RU PH WKH RQO\ ZD\ WKDW , FDQ UHDOO\ H[SODLQ WKLV LV WKURXJK P\ ,QGLJHQRXV LGHQWLW\ , LGHQWLI\ DV D .ZH ZKLFK LV WKH WUDGLWLRQDO $QLVKLQDDEH ZRUG IRU ŚZRPDQś ,W KDV QRWKLQJ WR GR ZLWK VH[XDO LGHQWLW\ DQG HYHU\WKLQJ WR GR ZLWK ZKR , DP DV D OLIH JLYHU 0\ FKLOGUHQ ZLOO KDYH WKH RSSRUWXQLW\ WR LGHQWLI\ KRZHYHU WKH\ QHHG DQG PRUH LPSRUWDQWO\ P\ KRPH ZLOO DOZD\V EH RSHQ WR DOO KXPDQ EHLQJVŞ HOW HAS THE BIRTH OF YOUR SON CHANGED YOUR FAMILY DYNAMIC? ŝ:LWK WKH VHFRQG EDE\ WKHUHśV VWLOO WKDW MR\ DQG H[FLWHPHQW EXW LWśV D OLWWOH PRUH ODLGEDFN DQG \RXU SULRULWLHV JHW YHU\ FOHDU 7KDWśV EHHQ D EHDXWLIXO JLǟ IRU PH DV DQ DUWLVW EHFDXVH LWśV JLYHQ PH D ODVHU IRFXV $QG WKHQ WKHUHśV WKH IDFW WKDW , ZLOO QHYHU EH RQ WLPH DJDLQŞ >/DXJKV@ LASTLY, WHICH INDIGENOUS DESIGNERS SHOULD WE HAVE ON OUR RADAR? ŝ5LJKW QRZ ,śP REVHVVHG ZLWK 7KH %HDGHG +HURff VKH PDNHV LQFUHGLEOH GHSLFWLRQV RI SRS FXOWXUH LQ KHU EHDGZRUN , ORYH (PPH 6WXGLR ,śYH EHHQ ZRUNLQJ ZLWK SHRSOH ZKR DUH PRUH NQRZQ IRU UHJDOLD DQG WUDGLWLRQDO JDUPHQWV OLNH PDVWHU EHDGHU 5REHUWD $QGHUVRQ DQG 0LFKHOOH 5HHG RI 05HHG 'HVLJQV MXVW PDGH DQ LQFUHGLEOH VWUDS GUHVV IRU PHff ZH FROODERUDWHG RQ WKH GHVLJQ 7KH VWUDS GUHVV UHDOO\ UHSUHVHQWV WKH flUVW IRUP RI WKH JDUPHQW ZH ZRUH LQ WKH ʔʛʓʓV WKDW ZDV D UHDO PL[WXUH RI ZKR ZH ZRXOG KDYH EHHQ DQG ZKR ZH ZHUH EHFRPLQJŞ Em me Studio The Beaded Hero PROFILE VOILA! SUMMER 2023 25
PHOTOGRAPHY: LOUBOUTIN COURTESY OF CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN; HERMÈS BOX VIA GETTY; RUNWAY VIA LAUNCHMETRICS.COM/SPOTLIGHT; ZENDAYA BY PASCAL LE SEGRETAIN/GETTY). RAINBOW Connection The hued history of fashion’s most iconic shades. By LAUREN KNOWLES HERMÈS ORANGE Nothing says orange like a citrus-hued Hermès box, but the iconic boîte wasn’t always this colour. In 1942, during the Second World War, a shortage of cream-coloured cardboard boxes meant that the French fashion house had to use whatever the supplier could provide for packaging. As it turned out, the boxes were orange. Although their size, their shape and even their shade have varied over the years—from a subdued rust orange circa 1945 to a vibrant tangerine reflective of the ’60s—the use of an orange hue has been consistent. Q WKH DFFODLPHG IDVKLRQ OP The Devil Wears Prada, the Anna Wintour-inspired character Miranda Priestly (Meryl Streep) delivers a nearly WZRPLQXWH PRQRORJXH RQ WKH VLJQLFDQFH RI WKH FRORXU EOXHřRU QRW EOXH 6W\OLVWV HDJHU WR impress their cutthroat boss, bounce frantically from rack to rack as the fashionably unaware assistant Andy Sachs (Anne Hathaway) marvels at their LQDELOLW\ WR PDNH VHHPLQJO\ LQVLJQLFDQW GHFLVLRQV DERXW IDVKLRQ ŝVWXƨŞ ,Q GHIHQFH RI VDLG ŝVWXƨŞ Miranda proceeds to lecture Andy on the nuances of GHWDLO LQ WKH IDVKLRQ ZRUOGřQRW OHDVW RI ZKLFK LV FRORXU ŝ7KDW VZHDWHU LV QRW MXVW EOXHřLWśV QRW WXUTXRLVHff LWśV QRW ODSLVřLWśV DFWXDOO\ FHUXOHDQŞ VKH VD\V 3RLQW WDNHQ 0LUDQGD You see, colour can become synonymous with a brand and establish a visual shorthand that is perhaps HYHQ PRUH SRZHUIXO WKDQ D ORJR 2EVHUYHffl $ EULJKW RUDQJH LV QRW VLPSO\ RUDQJHff UDWKHU LWśV +HUP§V RUDQJH A shocking pink is now Pink PP courtesy of Valentino, ZKLFK HOHYDWHG DQ RUGLQDU\ VKDGH WR D WUDGHPDUN KXH With countless colour contributions from the industry trickling into the mainstream, it no longer takes a GHVLJQ DFLRQDGR WR LGHQWLI\ 7LƨDQ\ %OXH RU %RWWHJD JUHHQ +HUH ZH GHOYH LQWR WKH FXOWXUDO VLJQLFDQFH DQG IDWHG RULJLQV RI VRPH RI IDVKLRQśV IDYRXULWH FRORXUV Off W- hite Fall 2016 Bottega Veneta Spring 2021 Va el nt ni o Fall 2022 Fendi Resort 2023 Hermès Spring 2022 VOILA! SIGNATURES 26 SUMMER 2023
OFF-WHITE’S INDUSTRIAL YELLOW After the late Virgil Abloh sent a construction-yellow “industrial belt” down the runway at the Off-White Fall 2016 menswear show, it swiftly became a street-style staple. The inspiration for this buzzy belt and its colour is clear from its name—visions of caution tape and construction-site signage come to mind. Off-White is also known for its love of workwear, and this distinctive cautionary-yellow shade has lent itself to a multitude of other creations throughout the years, including logos, clothing and footwear. VALENTINO PINK PP Pink is having a major fashion moment—and Valentino’s high-octane Pink PP is leading the pack. You’ll find this shade at the intersection of fuchsia and magenta, but it’s got its own fierce electricity. At Valentino’s Fall 2022 Ready-to-Wear show, 48 single-hued hot-pink ensembles were presented. The collection’s stream of monochromatic looks no doubt contributed to the rise of the Barbiecore trend, with celebrities from Zendaya to Florence Pugh following suit in head-to-toe pink Valentino attire. This playful shade, made in collaboration with the Pantone Color Institute, was named “Pink PP” after the initials of Valentino’s current creative director, Pierpaolo Piccioli. “Pink PP is the result of research and a necessity; I just needed to put all my hopes and dreams and basically everything that makes me feel good into a colour,” Piccioli told British Vogue. Zendaya in Valentino Tiffany Blue Box Bottega Veneta Pouch Bag LOUBOUTIN RED A sexy stiletto with a rich rouge sole is instantly identifiable as the work of Christian Louboutin. It’s been reported that in 1993, after one year of business, Louboutin sought to create a shoe inspired by Warhol’s 1964 Flowers print series. It’s said he believed that the initial prototype (a pink stacked heel with a black sole) lacked the true pop-art essence of a Warhol piece, but an assistant painting her nails red nearby inspired the designer to paint the sole with her polish to make it pop. Thus, the famed red bottom was born, and so it has remained—but it’s not without its imitators. Louboutin continues to fight legal battles the world over in an effort to protect its trademark sole, most recently securing a victory in a Beijing court over a competitor. BOTTEGAGREEN One of former creative director Daniel Lee’s greatest contributions to Bottega Veneta (and fashion!)—alongside the coveted Pouch bag and Puddle boots—is Bottega green. For the Italian house’s Spring 2021 Ready-to-Wear show, the set was immersed in both emerald lighting and looks, and thus commenced the reign of the now celebrated colour—although it seems that Lee’s Bottega green itself may be a revival of a longtime favourite of the fashion house. A strikingly similar shade appears in the form of some folded fabric in the 1985 short film Bottega Veneta Industrial Videotape, directed by Andy Warhol—as well as on the exterior of the Bottega Veneta flagship store in Vienna, captured in Polaroid images 10 years later. Coincidence? I think not. TIFFANYBLUE The precise origin of Tiffany Blue—“a color so famous, it’s trademarked”—and why company founder Charles Lewis Tiffany decided to use it aren’t known for certain, but the historical significance of the colour turquoise in the 19th century might have been a contributing factor. (Tiffany & Co. was created in 1837.) “Turquoise was a favourite of Victorian brides who gave their attendants a dove-shaped brooch of turquoise as a wedding day memento, which increased the color’s popularity,” offers the luxury jewellery retailer. Beyond using the shade for its boxes, Tiffany & Co. recently collaborated with Fendi for the 25th anniversary of its Baguette bag, made famous on Sex and the City by lead character Carrie Bradshaw. A Tiffany Blue Baguette, modelled on the arm of Bella Hadid, debuted on the catwalk during Fendi’s Resort 2023 show at New York Fashion Week. SIGNATURES VOILA! SUMMER 2023 27
LOVE “Everything I do comes from a place of love, and I always hope that my work inspires that feeling in someone else. When you do everything with sincerity and purpose, it simplifies life.” VEGANISM “I’ve been vegan for about six years, and it’s the best decision I ever made. Mindful Pigs aims to make cruelty-free clothes more fashion-forward.” Negativity isn’t common practice in the world of Mindful Pigs, a Montreal-based label with an aptitude for unabashed joy and positivity. It RƨHUV VPLOHLQGXFLQJ FORWKHVřSLHFHV WKDW UDGLate happiness whether they’re colourful bandanas, mesh matching sets or heart-shaped backpacks. “I realized quite HDUO\ RQ WKDW RSWLPLVP LV D FKRLFHŞ UHHFWV IRXQGHU 0DULD Karimi. “When things get hard, I think to myself ‘I’ve been through worse; I can tackle anything.’” And, indeed, she has, and she can. Karimi was born in Afghanistan but spent her early years LQ ,QGLD DǟHU ZDU EURNH RXW LQ KHU QDWLYH FRXQWU\ ŝ$V D child, I regularly saw soldiers, rockets and bombs,” she shares. “When you leave an environment like that, you have to count your blessings.” The designer admits that she never had much interest in the arts when she was younger EHFDXVH LW IHOW WRR LPSUDFWLFDO +RZHYHU DǟHU KHU IDPLO\ moved to Canada and she discovered fashion, everything changed. “I was always in my head, so fashion gave me the IUHHGRP WR IHHOŞ VKH VD\V &XW WR ʕʓʔʚ DQG .DULPL ODXQFKHG MAR, a ready-to-wear brand that specializes in modern FODVVLFV IROORZHG LQ ʕʓʕʕ E\ WKH FUXHOW\IUHH VXVWDLQDEOH and genderless Mindful Pigs. “My goal is to simply inspire other souls to practise a kinder way of consuming and have some extra love and empathy for the planet as a whole,” shares Karimi, who describes herself DV D ŝVRǟ DFWLYLVWŞ ŝ$Q\RQH QR PDWWHU WKHLU DJH RU JHQGHU can use fashion as a way to speak without words. Clothing should allow you to be whomever you want.” +HUH WKH GHVLJQHU VKDUHV WKH LQXHQFHV WKDW LQVSLUH KHU work, including her blended background, need to travel and zest for life. BrightSide Maria Karimi has survived a war, a transatlantic move and a global pandemic. But despite it all, the Mindful Pigs designer is still smiling. By ANNIKA LAUTENS VOILA! DNA 28 SUMMER 2023
GENDER FLUIDITY “I don’t think I can ever make clothes for just one gender. At age two, I decided I was a boy. I gave myself a boy’s name and only wore boys clothing until my early teens. I have since made peace with my gender as a woman, but my early gender fluidity translated into my work.” WESTERN CULTURE “Whenever I’m making a structured piece, it’s inspired by Western culture. In North America, people need to be dressed a certain way to exude power, and many of my clients have a business background, so a blend of emotions and psychology is always at play.” SOUTH ASIA “Having grown up and been around so many different cultures, I find it all becomes a blur—but also an inspiration. The mix of texture, colours and embroidery in my work is heavily influenced by my Afghan and Indian background.” TRAVEL “I have to go somewhere at least once a year; otherwise, I get this itch under my skin. I need to breathe new air. I love discovering new people, food and art. It fulfills my curiosity and hunger to learn, observe and be inspired.” PHOTOGRAPHY: KARIMI COURTESY OF MINDFUL PIGS; LOOKBOOK BY SACHA COHEN. DNA VOILA! SUMMER 2023 29
1 FLAG BEARERS Show your pride with a statement piece that says “yes” to #Loveislove. By ALEESHA HARRIS I n a world of digital devices, the decision to wear a watch is as much about making an individual style statement as it is about keeping track of time. Rainbow-hued watches go one step further in showing support for the /*%74,$ʕ6 FRPPXQ ity. With the latter in mind, we’ve rounded up a selection of special pieces to wear through Pride 0RQWKřDQG EH\RQG 1 LabelNoirRolex MilgaussRainbow DESIGNNOTESWatchmaker Emmanuel Curti makes covetable watch designs even more extravagant with bespoke customizations. This 40-millimetre Rolex Milgauss is the perfect example. The stainlesssteel design features an amorphous diamond-like carbon coating to give it a cool all-black appearance. Thirty-six sparkling rubies and sapphires circle the bezel to complete the rainbow-inspired redux. THEPRICE $55,000 2 MichaelKors OversizedRacquel DESIGNNOTES This limited-edition timepiece from American designer Michael Kors dresses up a classic stainless-steel watch design with all-over pavé-set crystals. A rainbow of baguette-cut crystals encircles the face for a stunningly sparkling display. Measuring 41 millimetres, the design is sure to suit a variety of wrists and style preferences. THEPRICE $865 PHOTOGRAPHY: BACKGROUND VIA ISTOCK. 30 SUMMER 2023 VOILA! WRIST ACTION
SWATCH MICHAELKORS OMEGA PARMIGIANIFLEURIER 2 4 3 5 5 SwatchStripeFierce DESIGNNOTES The perfect timepiece to sport during Pride celebrations to give your go-to watch a rest (Swatch, after all, is short for “second watch”), this transparent strap and case design features eco-minded elements including biosourced glass in lieu of crystal for its case. In addition to its rainbow theme, the New Gent style features a sweet surprise in the form of a calendar wheel on its face that reveals a new LGBTQIA2S+ element, such as a heart, in every 24-hour cycle. THEPRICE $110 4 OmegaNATOStrap DESIGNNOTESThis rainbowstriped NATO strap adds an element of Pride to any Omega watch style. The six-stripe polyamide band features a stainless-steel buckle and fitted keepers for a stylishly snug fit. The colourful design builds on the history of the brand’s NATO-inspired wraps, which were based on those issued to British pilots, navigators and army personnel during the Second World War, while also celebrating the inclusivity of Pride. THEPRICE $240 3 ParmigianiFleurier TondaMetropolitaine 36RoseGoldRainbow DESIGNNOTESThis example of haute horology from luxury Swiss watchmaker Parmigiani Fleurier is a wearable work of art. Limited to just five pieces, the 18-karat rose-gold Tonda Metropolitaine features an eyecatching blue opal dial surrounded by a bezel set with an array of baguettecut gemstones. The company’s Calibre PF310 automatic movement ensures precision timekeeping. THEPRICEUpon request IF YOUR ARM CANDY DOESN’T INCLUDE AWRIST- WATCH... Birks Limited- EditionPride Bracelet DESIGNNOTES Montrealheadquartered jewellery brand Birks is celebrating Pride with this dainty bracelet. The chain-and-bar design is made from 18-karat white gold and features an array of gemstones, including sapphires, tsavorites and rubies, set in a rainbow gradient totalling .19 carats. THEPRICE $670 SUMMER 2023 31 WRIST ACTION VOILA!
VOILA! MASTER CLASS 32 SUMMER 2023 J E W E L L E R Y 1 0 1 S IG N E T R I N G S By CLARA Y OUNG When they say “Kiss the ring,” it’s not a wedding band they’re talking about. Neither is it an engagement, purity, mourning, adultery, poison-concealing squirt or any of the many other kinds of signifying rings that proliferated from the Middle Ages through to the Victorian era. No, the ring that lackeys press their lips to in obeisance is always a signet, or seal, ULQJřŝVLJQHWŞ FRPHV IURP WKH /DWLQ ZRUG for “sign,” as in sign of success. Think Super Bowl rings. Or the Pope’s ring, a.k.a. the Ring of the Fisherman. Sterling silver ring, $620, Dior 18 karat yellow gold ring, $1,650, David Yurman Diamond and 14 karat white gold ring, $4,810, Grown Brilliance Black resin and rhodium plated recycled sterling silver ring, $365, Ming Yu Wang Onyx and 18 karat gold vermeil ring, $150, Mejuri Enamel and sterling silver ring, $520, Maison Birks
MASTER CLASS VOILA! SUMMER 2023 33 Black onyx and 18 karat yellow gold ring, $5,550, Tiffany & Co. IT’S USUALLY BIG A signet ring can be a chunky thing, often worn on the pinky (like King Charles III), index finger or thumb—or sometimes all (like Liberace). Its singular characteristic is a flat top or bezel of varying shapes with some symbol of authority inscribed into the gold face or sometimes into a hard stone, like jasper. For example, a family crest in intaglio could serve as a signature. By being pressed into sealing wax, the engraving on the signet ring invested documents or letters with the authority of the ring holder, essentially encrypting them. This was true up until the 19th century. Millennia earlier, Egyptian pharaohs had their names set in signet rings made of stone, like steatite, or sometimes solid gold. Earlier still, the Mesopotamians in 3500 BC wore signet rings that they pressed into tablets of wet clay as a way of signing them. Centuries later, beginning in 2900 BC, the Minoans did the same with signet rings carved out of ivory. This is why we kiss the ring—because the signet ring is power jewellery for the ages. IT FUNCTIONED ASASIGNATURE UNTIL… Unlike some other jewellery, the signet ring was never merely ornamental. Instead, it expressed the self, especially the legal self. Signet rings were stand-ins for one’s identity and, by extension, conferred that identity to land deeds, loan declarations, wills—anything that required validation from someone influential. This is why, in some cultures, signet rings were destroyed when their owner died rather than handed down. The papal signet ring was always smashed with a ceremonial hammer with each passing—and still is. Historically, the signet ring’s potential for wreaking posthumous havoc was too dangerous. …MORE PEOPLE LEARNED HOW TO READ By the 17th century, many people were literate enough to authenticate documents with their written signature so signet rings became less of a functional item and more of a fashion statement. And like the signet rings of old, the 19th-century versions were personalized with the owner’s initials or monogram and began to be set with showy gems, both precious and semi-precious. IT’S SEXY, TOO “He spent the time examining Dickie’s rings. He liked them both: a large rectangular green stone set in gold on the third finger of his right hand, and on the little finger of the other hand a signet ring….” In The Talented Mr. Ripley, Dickie Greenleaf’s pinky ring represents family money. It signals to Patricia Highsmith’s sociopath, Tom Ripley, that Greenleaf is his for the taking. Besides wealth and influence, signet rings telegraph quintessential maleness, too (the homosexual undercurrents between Ripley and Greenleaf notwithstanding). Historically invested with wealth, power and maleness, a signet ring worn on a woman’s finger suggests radically enticing things, like empowerment and of-the-moment gender fluidity. Highsmith, herself an out lesbian, wore a signet ring on her pinky. And signet rings worn on the thumb read as idiosyncratic and sexually unconventional. So, why are signet rings so in? Because they’ve never been out. Of fashion, that is—or anything else. Rose gold and sterling silver ring, $1,650, Hermès Emerald and 18 karat yellow gold ring, $8,000, Jemma Wynne
f Boss was looking to create a viral moment when it touched down in Miami in mid-March IRU WKH GHEXW RI LWV 6SULQJ ʕʓʕʖ FROOHFWLRQ LW VXFceeded far beyond what anyone in the brand’s marketing department could have imagined. For VWDUWHUV /DZ 5RDFK PDGH KLV UXQZD\ GHEXW MXVW one day after rocking the fashion world by announcing his retirement from celebrity styling. 7KH JXHVW OLVW ERWK RQ DQG Rƨ WKH FDWZDON ZDV VWHOODU DQG WKH VKRZ RSHQHG ZLWK &DQDGLDQ LFRQ Pamela Anderson and closed with Naomi &DPSEHOO DQG '- .KDOHG LQ D SDLULQJ WKDW QR RQH KDG RQ WKHLU ʕʓʕʖ ELQJR FDUG 'R]HQV RI FRORXUIXOO\ OLW IRXQWDLQV DQG DQ DUWLflFLDO ZDWHUIDOO SOD\IXOO\ GDQFHG DORQJ WR WKH PXVLF PDNLQJ WKH all-star cast look as if they were walking on water. $QG GHVSLWH DQ XQH[SHFWHG RFHDQ EUHH]H WKDW UHVXOWHG LQ D VOLFN UXQZD\ DQG D VRDNHG DXGLHQFH it all added up to create an impact so powerful that nothing could have rained on this parade. 7KLV ZDV %RVVśV VHFRQG ŝVHH QRZ EX\ QRZŞ VKRZřWKH ILUVW ZDV KHOG LQ 'XEDL ODVW \HDU And while the German brand still presents its fall FROOHFWLRQ DW PDMRU IDVKLRQ ZHHNV LQ OLQH ZLWK WKH UHJXODU LQGXVWU\ FDOHQGDU WKH 6SULQJ ʕʓʕʖ show was a chance to continue the immediateJUDWLflFDWLRQ H[SHULPHQW Whipping winds brought unexpected excitement to Boss’s Miami runway. But the “see now, buy now” collection on a who’s who of models celebrated the power of reimagining tradition. By ANNIKA LAUTENS PHOTOGRAPHY: RUNWAY AND ATTENDEES COURTESY OF HUGO BOSS; WATER DROPLETS VIA ISTOCK. MAKING a SPLASH Law Roach 34 SUMMER 2023
When the StarsAlign With drag queens, supermodels and a nepo baby or two, Boss delivered a full-on media storm for Spring 2023. Pamela Anderson Marco Falcioni, senior vice-president of creative direction at Hugo Boss, H[SODLQHG LQ D SUHVV UHOHDVH WKDW KH ZDQWHG WKH %RVV 6SULQJ ʕʓʕʖ FROOHFWLRQ to honour the spirit of the brand while looking to what’s next in formalwear. +H VDLG KH ZDV SDUWLFXODUO\ LQXHQFHG E\ WKH ŝH[TXLVLWH WHQVLRQ WKDW OLHV EHWZHHQ FRQWUDVWLQJ HOHPHQWV VXFK DV VROLG DQG XLG VWDWHVff ODQG DQG VHDff RSDTXH DQG WUDQVSDUHQWff SDVW DQG SUHVHQWŞ This was translated into a layered mash-up of unexpected pairings. Think structured blazers with sheer skirts, sleeveless suit jackets with boxer shorts DQG HƨRUWOHVVO\ FRRO FXWRXWV RQ H[WUDORQJ VOHHYHV 6LONV DQG Q\ORQV ZHUH FULQNOHG RU VPRRWK ZLWK FRQWUDVWLQJ WH[WXUHV RǟHQ IRXQG WRJHWKHU LQ WKH VDPH RXWflW $QG WKH VXQIDGHG SRZGHU\ KXHV HYRNHG LPDJHV RI 0LDPLśV DUW deco architecture. The result was a modern reinvention of traditional tailoring that paid homage to Boss’s renowned roots but added a streetwear HGJH EHflWWLQJ D ERVV LQ ʕʓʕʖ ,PPHGLDWHO\ DǟHU WKH VKRZ VHOHFWHG LWHPV IURP WKH FROOHFWLRQ ZHUH DYDLODEOH IRU SXUFKDVH LQ ʛ FRXQWULHV %HVW RI DOO LW ZDV LQFUHGLEO\ refreshing to see warm-weather garments when the weather was actually getting warmer. Precious Lee DJ Khaled and Naomi Campbell Gottmik Hwang In-Youp Tiffany Haddish and Charles Melton Lucien Laviscount and Bella Thorne Maisa Silva, Maluma and Demi Lovato OUT OF OFFICE VOILA! SUMMER 2023 35
PHOTOGRAPHY BY MARCUS SCHÄFER/TRUNK ARCHIVE What do we get wrong about gender-fluid fashion? Hint: It doesn’t always look the same, and that’s a good thing. By LYDIA OKELLO Bending I śP D IDW QRQELQDU\ %ODFN SHUVRQ DQG P\ SHUVRQDO VW\OH KDV EHHQ FRPSOLFDWHG ,Q P\ ODWH WHHQV DQG HDUO\ ʕʓV ZKHQ , LGHQWLHG DV VWUDLJKW DQG FLVJHQGHU P\ VW\OH ZDV GHHSO\ GHHSO\ IHPLQLQHřWKLQN .DW\ 3HUU\ circa KHU GHEXW DOEXP , KDG D SHQFKDQW IRU ʔʘʓVLQVSLUHG W DQGDUH RXWWV FDUHIXOO\ VKRZFDVLQJ P\ ERG\ LQ ŝWKH ULJKW ZD\Ş UHDG ŝDV D ZRPDQŞ :KHQ , FDPH RXW DV TXHHU DQG SDQ VH[XDO DQG WKHQ ODWHU DV QRQELQDU\ LW ZDV GHHSO\ FRQIURQWLQJřLW IHOW OLNH DQ H[LVWHQWLDO VW\OH FULVLV $ǟHU D OLIHWLPH RI FRQIRUPLQJ , ZDVQśW VXUH LI P\ HQWLUH SHUVRQDO VW\OH KDG WR FKDQJH 7KLV /\GLD GLGQśW KDYH WR ORRN D FHUWDLQ ZD\řWKH\ ZHUH H[DFWO\ ZKR WKH\ VKRXOG EH ZKDWHYHU IHOW ULJKW LQ WKH PRPHQW %XW ZKHQ , WDNH D ORRN Binaries 36 SUMMER 2023 VOILA! PUSHBACK
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Filmy fabrics, fine mesh and naked knits impart a barely-there impression. SHEER JOY 38 SUMMER 2023 VOILA! MERCH
Acne Studios Ferragamo Dion Lee Coperni Toga Virilis, $1,675 LaQuan Smith EDITOR: JILLIAN VIEIRA. PHOTOGRAPHY: MAIN BY CHRISTIAN VIERIG/CONTRIBUTOR VIA GETTY; RUNWAY VIA LAUNCHMETRICS.COM/SPOTLIGHT. STYLE TIP Not ready to look nearly naked? No problem. Layer sheer separates over moreopaque options to control your coverage. Cult Gaia, $560 Retrouvai, $9,600 Matteau, $260 Arket, $160 Élan, $75 Acne Studios, $450 SUMMER 2023 39 MERCH VOILA!
STYLE TIP Offset these playful prints with a basic bottom to avoid pyjama-party territory. Buttoned up or left undone, this summer’s essential silky shirt works for all genders. Miami Heat Versace Menswear Spring 2023 VOILA! MERCH 40 SUMMER 2023
La DoubleJ, $815 Endless Joy, $770 Rhude, $1,085 Mira Mikati, $830 Silk Laundry, $355 OAS, $165 Casablanca, $1,180 Versace, $1,900 Tory Burch, $530 EDITOR: JILLIAN VIEIRA. PHOTOGRAPHY: MAIN VIA LAUNCHMETRICS.COM/SPOTLIGHT. MERCH VOILA! SUMMER 2023 41
From wild animal prints to striking monograms, this season’s statement swimwear is sure to have them gushing. Making Waves Eloquii VOILA! MERCH 42 SUMMER 2023
EDITOR: JILLIAN VIEIRA. PHOTOGRAPHY: MAIN COURTESY OF ELOQUII; RUNWAY VIA LAUNCHMETRICS.COM/SPOTLIGHT. STYLE TIP A coordinating cover-up takes an afternoon at the beach to the next level. HERE COMES the SUN Embrace the rays with these colourful shades. The Attico, $395 Bottega Veneta, $820 Linda Farrow, $305 Faithfull the Brand, $130 for each piece Tropic of C, top, $205, and bottoms, $145 CDLP, $300 Dries Van Noten, $425 Selfish, $95 for each piece Boss, $130 MSGM Menswear Mara Hoffman, $570 Toteme, $340 Jacquemus Etro Menswear Poppy Lissiman, $180 Aldo, $20 MERCH VOILA! SUMMER 2023 43
TAILS of LOVE PHOTOGRAPHY BY LAWRENCE CORTEZ STYLING BY ASHLEY GALANG CREATIVE DIRECTION BY GEORGE ANTONOPOULOS Including your furry BFF on your wedding day has never been chicer. Take a peek at Pet Valu’s Bailey & Bella brand’s posh petapproved wedding collection. Pet: Black wedding tuxedo, $35 to $37, and champagne launcher toy, $28, Bailey & Bella at Pet Valu. Model: Jumpsuit, $1,995, Narces. Shoes, $190, L’Intervalle. Earrings, $260, The Loved One. Necklace, $650, Swarovski. Ring, $390, Completedworks.
Pet: “Dog of Honour” wedding bandana, $15, and wedding-collar four-piece set in “Ivory,” $43, Bailey & Bella at Pet Valu. Left: Shirt, $448, and suit, $795, Boss. Necklace, $78, Monoxide. Boutonniere, $150, The Loved One. Right: Dress, $2,535, Zimmermann. Earcuff, $460, and earring, $315, The Loved One. Ring, $380, Swarovski. FASHION x PET VALU
Pets: “I Do Too” wedding bandana, $15, wedding-collar four-piece set in black, $43, and wedding flower pink dress, $35 to $37, Bailey & Bella at Pet Valu. Left: Dress, $700, Rotate. Shoes, $170, L’Intervalle. Earrings, $195, The Loved One. Ring, $265, Swarovski. Right: Jacket, $855, shirt, $288, and pants, $545, Boss. Shoes, $180, Dr. Martens. Bowtie, $30, Elnuk Styles. FASHION x PET VALU
Pet: “Best Bud” wedding bandana, $15, Bailey & Bella at Pet Valu. Left: Vest, $100, Mango. Shirt, $1,145, Alexander Wang. Pants, price upon request, Tomé Dress Salon. Earrings, price upon request, Vimeria. Tie, $90, Blick. Right: Dress, $640, Rotate. Earrings, $490, Oscar de la Renta. Necklace, $295, Vivienne Westwood. Bracelet, $780, Completedworks.
Pet: “I Do Too” wedding bandana, $15, and weddingcollar four-piece set in “Ivory,” $43, Bailey & Bella at Pet Valu. Model: Dress, $1,995, Narces. Shoes, $1,510, Amina Muaddi. Earrings, $490, Oscar de la Renta. Bracelet, $780, Completedworks. Three tips on how to include your pet on your wedding day (stylishly, of course) Sending your Shih Tzu down the aisle in a tux isn’t as simple as it sounds. We spoke to a Pet Valu Animal Care Expert about how to maximize your pet’s comfort and style on your big day. Here’s what they recommended: Choose the chicest look: Bailey & Bella just came out with a wedding collection featuring pup tuxes and dresses and on-theme accessories and toys. Establish a grooming routine: Regular washing combined with grooming sprays (the Essentials Spritz line is a must-try) and proper dental care will ensure that your pet not only looks but also feels fresh and relaxed on the big day. Hot tip: You can keep the mess out of the house with Pet Valu’s selfserve dog wash. You can wash, groom and dry your furry pal right in the store. Consider their comfort: Have them practise wearing their outfit and tour the venue ahead of time so they’re familiar with the space. Bring their favourite toys, treats and a calming spray just in case—and don’t forget Essentials Grooming Wipes and lint rollers! Shop the full collection online and at your local Pet Valu.
PHOTOGRAPHY: MAIN BY NICI EBERL; DURIKOVIC BY MATA DURIKOVIC. A FEAST FOR THE EYES If you think Mata Durikovic’s designs for MadByMad look good enough to eat, then you’re in luck. The Central Saint Martins grad, who is originally from Slovakia and won the Best Fashion Talent award from the Slovak Fashion Council in 2022, is best known for her work with an agar-based bioplastic material that she has dubbed “crystal leather,” which is actually edible. It’s no wonder she was shortlisted for LVMH and Central Saint Martins’s Maison/0 Green Trail award and named a Swarovski Foundation scholar. GRANDMA KNOWS BEST While some might assume it was Durikovic’s chemist mother who inspired her to push the boundaries of textile design, it was actually her grandmother’s technique for revitalizing foliage, which came back to Durikovic while she was in workshops exploring materials made from things like banana and orange peels, that sparked the idea. “She would save starch water in a large basin after cooking potatoes and use it to water her plants,” Durikovic recalls. “What if that concept could be applied to clothing?” she remembers thinking. That’s when “everything just clicked,” she says. Her grandmother also taught her to crochet and knit, which helps Durikovic avoid mechanical production. And they used to act out otherworldly scenarios with fairies and crystals—fanciful games that now inform the designer’s whimsical aesthetic. A RECIPE FOR SUCCESS Durikovic currently works with non-toxic ingredients, including agar tinted with food colouring, for her delectable designs; it’s also possible to add flavour pastes to the mix, she notes. So, a berry-hued ensemble, for example, could taste like something sweet. She has two approaches to making her products, like a dreamy translucent coat festooned with embroidered flowers and upcycled crystals donated by Swarovski. “One is to make a sheet of material that can be used for pattern-making or embroidery, like my appliqué flowers,” she says. The jelly solution is laid down on an old board deconstructed from a table that was found on a London street. “I pour the liquid on the board and even it out, and it dries within two days,” Durikovic says. Then it’s ready to be peeled off and cut. The other technique involves layering the solution, which can take up to five days but is ideal for making bags and other items that require maximum durability. FOOD FOR THOUGHT Durikovic recounts with delight how attendees at her London Fashion Week debut in February reacted when her models encouraged them to munch on the designs on display. “I didn’t expect people to eat them,” she says with a laugh. “Of course, I was hoping they would try it! They seemed astonished.” Her inventive inclinations bode well for not only her own brand’s trajectory but also the larger fashion world. Durikovic currently works in development at Chanel’s textile studio and is keen to spread the idea that luxury can be sustainable. “Couture can be created in your home atelier—your kitchen,” she says brightly. It’s merely time for creative minds to get cooking. MadByMad’s bioplastic leather offers a new form of fashion consumption. By ODESSA PALOMA PARKER Appetite forChange DESIGNER Mata Durikovic (MadByMad) HOME BASE Paris ITEMS Jackets made from bioplastic leather and upcycled Swarovski crystals DETAILS VOILA! SUMMER 2023 49