TEXT BY SOUZAN MICHAEL GALWAY. PHOTOGRAPHY VIA LAUNCHMETRICS.COM/SPOTLIGHT. COLOUR THEORY pH-adapting makeup products are the ultimate way to get made-for-you shades of blush and lipstick this summer. Really! It’s science. (SEE PAGE 53.) Alexis Mabille Couture Spring 2023 H A I R • S K I N • E Y E S • L I P S • N A I L S • E T C .
TEXT BY SOUZAN MICHAEL GALWAY. PHOTOGRAPHY: (THIS PAGE) MASCARA SWATCH VIA ISTOCK; (OPPOSITE PAGE) MAIN VIA LAUNCHMETRICS.COM/SPOTLIGHT. Show your support for Pride with these queer-founded beauty brands. New &Now LIGHT BRIGHT Vitamin C is the gold standard for brightening skin tone, fading dark spots and evening out texture. There has to be a catch, right? There is. In serum form, vitamin C can have a musty scent that’s often compared to the smell of hot dogs. And it’s not exactly travel-friendly, either. Typically housed in fragile glass bottles, it’s notoriously reactive when exposed to air and light, making it no one’s first choice when packing for a beach vacation. But with Peace Out Skincare’s new Vitamin C Glow Stick ($37), which contains four types of vitamin C, you can reap all the benefits of the hero ingredient without any of the mess, fuss or questionable aroma. EYES WIDE OPEN Sappho New Paradigm’s latest launch, Maximum Intensity Refillable Mascara ($38), sees the brand’s beloved mascara formula in new refillable packaging, featuring a singlematerial plastic inner tube and reusable and recyclable aluminum outer tube. Better yet, the Canadian makeup brand collaborated with the British Columbia Institute of Technology on this new iteration to ensure that both the formula and the packaging were thoroughly tested for and found to be free from PFAS (which are often referred to as “forever chemicals” and have been linked to a range of health concerns as well as water and soil contamination). BRONZE MEDAL It’s more subtle than a bright lipstick and less striking than an eye-opening mascara, but bronzer may just be the workhorse of a makeup routine. What other product can sculpt, define and add warmth while still managing to look like skin? Freck Beauty’s small-but-mighty Face Hack Precision Sculpting Bronzer ($24) is formulated with squalane, moringa oil and shea butter for a smooth texture that glides on and provides a blurred finish. It also features an almond-shaped applicator, which is especially useful for contouring tricky areas like your nose and eye crease. 52 SUMMER 2023 CANVAS SHELFIE
1970S, ’80S AND ’90S KIDS will recall that there was nothing more electrifying than the novelty of slipping on their mood ring each morning and watching its stone change hues before their very eyes. Today, Gen Z has discovered the wonder of colour-changing products YLD PDNHXSřDQ H[WHQVLRQ RI WKH customization trend that has permeated the beauty industry over the past several years. Colour-changing makeup products (typically lipstick and blush) are pH-activated and powered by a chemical reaction between the product’s ingredients and the wearer’s skin. What could be more customized than that? “pH is the measure of how DFLGLF DQ HQYLURQPHQW LVŞ H[SODLQV Alessandro Mendes, vice-president of research and innovation at Cosmetica Laboratories Inc. in Toronto. The level of acidity in anything, from our skin to a swimming pool, can be determined using the scientific scale of pH, which UDQJHV IURP ʓ WR ʔʗ ZLWK ʓ EHLQJ WKH PRVW DFLGLF DQG ʔʗ EHLQJ WKH most basic). Healthy skin naturally VWDELOL]HV DURXQG WKH ʘ WR ʘʘ PDUN What causes the colour-changing phenomenon in makeup products is the interaction between skin and an ingredient called bromo acid dye, a type of pigment commonly used in these products. The pH level of the VNLQ WKDW WKLV G\H LV H[SRVHG WR XSRQ application determines the shade. “When you have a product that looks transparent or translucent in its packaging, for instance, it means that the level of pigment we can see with Youthforia BYO Blush, $50 Shade-changing makeup is all the rage on TikTok. Lauren Knowles explores the science behind pH-adapting cosmetics. Milani Green Goddess Lip Balm, $17 Tom Ford Soleil Lip Blush, $75 Haus Labs PhD Hybrid Lip Oil, $31 Winky Lux Amethyst PH Lip Balm, $26 Essence Electric Glow Colour Changing Lipstick, $5 IN LIVING COLOUR our eyes is very low,” says Mendes. “The reason we don’t see it until it’s applied is that the pH of the product is higher than the skin’s OHYHO RI ʘʘŞ :KHQ WKH WZR FRPH into contact, the pH levels react to each other, forming a shade that’s unique to the wearer. Since the pH of everyone’s skin is generally around the same level, getting different hues from person to person relies on a few other facWRUV WRR 7KHVH LQFOXGH FRPSOH[LRQ shade, where on the face the product LV DSSOLHG IRU H[DPSOH WKH S+ RI WKH skin on our lips is higher than on the rest of our face) and even how dry or hydrated the skin is. While the differences in the shades and intensity of pH-adapting makeup from person to person may be subtle to the naked eye, as far as unique-to-each-wearer makeup goes, colour-changing products may just be customizable EHDXW\śV flQDO IURQWLHU Dsquared2 Spring 2023 SUMMER 2023 53
At just 23 years old, Two-Spirit Indigenous drag queen Chelazon Leroux has conquered TikTok (with over half a million followers) and TV (as a contestant on season three of Canada’s Drag Race). And she’s just getting started. By SOUZAN MICHAEL GALWAY Top Shelf Chelazon Leroux’s tried-and-true onstage and offstage makeup essentials. “I want to support and put money back into my drag community. But it’s also just a really good product. If a drag queen makes it, it’s going to be pigmented and blendable because it has to look good onstage.” KimChi Chic Beauty Holy Fairytale Palette, $55 “It’s so finely milled and makes everything look smooth and mattified. And it has a light scent that smells like candy.” Fenty Beauty Mini Pro Filt’r Instant Retouch Setting Powder in “Butter,” $29 E X P R E S S YO U R S E L F CANVAS REGIMENS 54 SUMMER 2023
PHOTOGRAPHY: COURTESY OF CHELAZON LEROUX I always describe drag as a microphone,” says Chelazon Leroux over a video call. “It’s someWKLQJ WKDW DPSOLflHV \RXU YRLFHŞ /HURX[ ZKRVH RƨVWDJH QDPH LV /D\WHQ %\KHWWH LV FDOOLQJ IURP 9DQFRXYHU WKH GD\ DǟHU DWWHQGLQJ %ULWLVK &ROXPELDśV VHFRQGDQQXDO 7ZR 6SLULW DQG ,QGLJHQRXV /*%74,$ &HOHEUDWLRQ DQG $ZDUHQHVV 'D\ ŝ,W ZDV D ORQJ GD\ DQG D ORW RI KDUG ZRUN EXW LW ZDV WKH EHVWřFHOHEUDWLQJ ZLWK D EXQFK RI 7ZR6SLULW SHRSOHŞ ŝ7ZR6SLULWŞ UHIHUV WR DQ ,QGLJHQRXV SHUVRQ ZKR LGHQWLflHV DV KDYLQJ ERWK D PDVFXOLQH DQG D IHPLQLQH VSLULW ŝ,WśV OLNH WKH bridge between the two worlds,” explains Leroux. *URZLQJ XS LQ 6DVNDWFKHZDQ Leroux moved around a lot due to her parents’ teaching jobs. “We OLYHG RQ GLƨHUHQW UHVHUYHV DQG LQ GLƨHUHQW FRPPXQLWLHV EXW QRQH RI WKHP ZHUH P\ KRPH UHVHUYH so I never really had a connection to what my identity was supposed to be as an Indigenous person,” she says. Simultaneously, when it came to gender identity, /HURX[ ZDV WDXJKW IURP D \RXQJ age that boys should stay away IURP WUDLWV DQG KREELHV WKDW FRXOG EH SHUFHLYHG DV ŝIHPLQLQHŞ OLNH GUHVVLQJ XS RU VSHDNLQJ LQ D high voice. “Even dressed in a +DOORZHHQ FRVWXPH DW IRXU \HDUV ROG , VDZ WKDW GLVDSSURYDO IURP my dad,” she recalls. So when it came to exploring KHU RZQ LGHQWLW\ /HURX[ KDG KHU ŝDKDŞ PRPHQW DǟHU ZDWFKLQJ VHDVRQ VL[ RI RuPaul’s DragRace LQ ʕʓʔʗ ŝ, JUHZ XS LQ VPDOO WRZQV DQG RQ VPDOO UHVHUYHV VR , GRQśW WKLQN , KDG DQ XQGHUVWDQGLQJ RI TXHHUQHVVŞ VKH VD\V ŝ(YHQ LI WKHUH ZHUH 7ZR6SLULW SHRSOH RQ UHVHUYHV LW ZDVQśW RSHQO\ WDONHG DERXW VR DragRace ZDV WKH flUVW WLPH , VDZ VRPHRQH , FRXOG LGHQWLI\ ZLWKff , VDZ SHRSOH ZKR ZHUH XQDIUDLG RI EHLQJ WKHPVHOYHV DQG H[SUHVVLQJ WKHLU IHPLQLQLW\ DQG VRPHWKLQJ MXVW FOLFNHG LQVLGH RI PHŞ 2ǟHQ GXULQJ FRQYHUVDWLRQV DERXW TXHHUQHVV WKH IRFXV LV RQ SURSHOOLQJ WKLQJV IRUZDUG RU PRYLQJ SDVW FHUWDLQ RXWGDWHG FRQFHSWV +RZHYHU /HURX[ H[SODLQV WKDW EHFDXVH RI KHU 7ZR “It’s the best. I just think Danessa Myricks is a master of complexion.” Danessa Myricks Beauty Lightwork Highlighting Palette, $55 “For everyday life, when I’m out of drag, I like something citrusy and sweet so I wear Under the Lemon Trees.” Maison Margiela Replica Under the Lemon Trees, $202 “When I’m in drag, my signature scent is Mugler Angel Nova—the eau de parfum, because it’s stronger.” Mugler Angel Nova Eau de Parfum, $132 6SLULW LGHQWLW\ DQG ,QGLJHQRXV URRWV KHU JRDO LV WR JR EDFN WR D SODFH RI XQGHUVWDQGLQJ DQG UHVSHFWffl ŝ$OO WKHVH WKLQJV ZHśUH flJKWLQJ IRU WRGD\ DUH QRW DQ\WKLQJ QHZ ,Q SUHFRORQLDO VRFLHW\ respect and understanding were a given.” She believes that KHU DQFHVWRUV GLGQśW VKDUH WKH VDPH QDUURZ YLHZV RI JHQGHU DQG LGHQWLW\ WKDW H[LVW WRGD\ ŝ, WKLQN \RX ZHUH MXVW DFFHSWHG as you were,” she says. “Everyone had a purpose, and your journey was to discover what that purpose was. My ancesWRUV EHOLHYHG WKDW HYHU\RQH KDG D ULJKW WR EH KHUHff ZHśUH MXVW WU\LQJ WR UHVWRUH WKDW ZD\ RI WKLQNLQJ 6R ZKLOH LWśV H[KDXVWLQJ WR KDYH WR flJKW IRU WKLV , GRQśW WKLQN LWśV LPSRVVLEOH WR JHW EDFN WR D VRFLHW\ WKDW KDV UHVSHFW IRU HYHU\RQHŞ Other than appearing on the WKLUG VHDVRQ RI Canada’s Drag Race, Leroux has been busy buildLQJ KHU IROORZLQJ RQ VRFLDO PHGLD 6KH UHJXODUO\ VKDUHV KHU ORYH RI GUDJ FRPHG\ DQG PDNHXS WXWRU LDOV ZLWK KHU ʘʓʓʓʓʓ IROORZHUV ŝ, VHH PDNHXS DV DQ H[SUHVVLRQ RI DQ LQQHU H[SHULHQFHŞ VKH VD\V ŝ7KURXJK PDNHXS DQG drag, I’m expressing my thoughts, my experiences and my pain.” 7KHVH GD\V VKH GHVFULEHV KHUVHOI DV EHLQJ ŝXQDSRORJHWLFDOO\ ,QGLJHQRXVŞ 7DNH IRU H[DPSOH WKH IDFW WKDW /HURX[ RǟHQ XVHV WKH FRORXU UHG LQ KHU PDNHXS ORRNV ŝ,WśV D V\PERO RI WKH 0LVVLQJ DQG Murdered Indigenous Women, *LUOV DQG 7ZR 6SLULW PRYHPHQWŞ VKH H[SODLQV ŝ,WśV VLJQLflFDQW IRU RXU EORRGOLQHV RXU UHODWLYHV RXU SRZHU DQG RXU VWUHQJWKŞ Leroux has made it her mission to continue being “unapoloJHWLFDOO\ ,QGLJHQRXVŞ LQ HYHU\WKLQJ VKH FUHDWHVffl ŝ,śYH IRXQG D ZD\ WR GR FRQWHQW FUHDWLRQ DQG FRPHG\ IURP DQ ,QGLJHQRXV SRLQW RI YLHZ DQG VRPHWLPHV SHRSOH DVN Ś:K\ GR \RX UHO\ RQ WKDW"ś %XW LWśV P\ OLYHG H[SHULHQFH , KDYH WR UHFODLP LW EHFDXVH P\ DQFHVWRUV GLGQśW KDYH WKDW ULJKW 6R , FDQśW WDNH WKLV IUHHGRP DQG DELOLW\ WR H[SUHVV P\VHOI IRU JUDQWHG :KHQ , WHOO P\ VWRULHV WKURXJK GUDJ LWśV QRW WKDW ,QGLJHQHLW\ LV MXVW RQH SDUW RI P\ GUDJřLWśV WKH ZKROH WKLQJŞ REGIMENS CANVAS SUMMER 2023 55
PHOTOGRAPHY: MAIN AND TOP RIGHT BY KAROLINA KURAS; BOTTOM RIGHT COURTESY OF THE NATIONAL BALLET OF CANADA. Root Force By keeping his locs and saying no to wigs, National Ballet of Canada principal dancer Siphesihle November is changing the look of classical ballet for generations to come. As told to NATASHA BOATENG S LSKHVLKOH 1RYHPEHUř6LSKH IRU VKRUW SURQRXQFHG ŝ6HHSD\Ş ř KDV TXLWH WKH RULJLQ VWRU\ +H KDLOV IURP =RODQL D 6RXWK $IULFDQ IDUPLQJ WRZQVKLS HDVW RI &DSH 7RZQ ZKHUH KLV QDWXUDO UK\WKP FDSWLYDWHG D YLVLWLQJ &DQDGLDQ IDPLO\ ZKHQ KH ZDV D FKLOG 7KH VHUHQGLSLWRXV HQFRXQWHU OHG WR DQ DXGLWLRQ IRU &DQDGDśV 1DWLRQDO %DOOHW 6FKRRO DQG DW WKH DJH RI ʔʕ WKH \RXQJ WDOHQW ZDV DFFHSWHG LQWR WKH SUHV WLJLRXV DFDGHP\ RQ D IXOO VFKRODUVKLS OHDYLQJ KLV PRWKHU DQG VLEOLQJV EHKLQG 1RYHPEHU MRLQHG 7KH 1DWLRQDO %DOOHW RI &DQDGD XSRQ JUDGXDWLRQ DQG LQ ʕʓʕʔ DW DJH ʕʕ ZDV SUR PRWHG WR SULQFLSDO GDQFHU PDNLQJ KLP RQH RI WKH \RXQJHVW SULQFLSDO GDQFHUV DQG RQO\ WKH VHFRQG %ODFN RQH LQ WKH FRPSDQ\śV ʚʕ\HDU KLVWRU\ +HUH 1RYHPEHU WDONV WR FASHION DERXW KLV MRXUQH\ DQG KRZ KLV VLJQDWXUH ORFV DUH LQWHJUDO WR ZKR KH LV DV DQ HOLWH %ODFN PDOH EDOOHW GDQFHU CANVAS TEXTURE TALK 56 SUMMER 2023
LOCS ARE HIS ONE CONSTANT I’ve had my signature hair look—shaved sides with free-flowing locs on top—since around the 11th grade. My locs are an extension of my personality, and I like the idea that they’re that one trademark about me, especially since I’m always wearing different clothing looks. My personal style, which I would describe as minimalist and simple, is also a huge part of my self-expression. I like to think of fashion as me expressing myself without having to say very much; I’m not very social—I don’t really talk a lot—but I like the idea that people can identify or see what I’m about through what I’m wearing. That’s how I like to approach my style. OPEN-MINDED BOSSES ARE KEY I’ve been very lucky to have had kind and understanding directors at The National Ballet of Canada who have supported me and given me the freedom to find my own signature hair look as a Black classical dancer. In the past, there were conversations about whether I should wear wigs or not and what the performances would look like with my natural locs. But now, as a principal dancer, I have the liberty to choose how I want to express myself—within limits. I think a big part of it is changing the narrative around the hairstyle—that locs can be clean. Another part is allowing a dancer with natural hair to be seen in their own light. In a way, my hair is like my own form of activism within my field, and unless it’s a complete mess, it doesn’t take away from my dancing. And as opposed to me always having to defend that, I like to throw it back as questions to people who think otherwise: Did my natural hair affect my performance? Did it affect your enjoyment of it? Nine times out of 10, the answers are no, and I think we need to normalize that aspect of it more. THERE ARE CHALLENGES, BUT THAT’S OK I would say that moving to Canada and training at the National Ballet School was the goal, but ending up where I am today was unexpected in so many ways. I never thought that I’d get to this level as a dancer—I never knew that I could work this hard. And what came along with my journey—the challenges, the roles, the social aspects of being a Black male dancer in the classical space—was really unexpected, too. They are things that I embrace every day, and I think that the more I lean into them, the more I’m able to find my purpose. LEADING THE WAY FEELS GOOD A funny little story: A fellow dancer in Europe told me, “You inspired me to loc my hair.” And now he’s performing onstage with his own interpretation of the hairstyle. It’s quite interesting to see him expressing himself in that way and navigating what that means for him. Right now, I’m happiest with the dialogue—the transparency and accountability—that I think many institutions are having. They are asking themselves “Are we open?” There’s a willingness to listen and a willingness to change, which is beautiful to see. I mean, the industry is nowhere near perfect, but I think what’s happening is the groundwork for greater things to come. It’s just so dope to know that the next generation, which you don’t even have a personal connection to, will be in a better situation than the one you were part of. And being involved in that work—to be available to assist in any way—makes me proud and happy. TEXTURE TALK CANVAS SUMMER 2023 57
REALITY CHECKS After appearing on two hit shows on Netflix, Toronto’s Dom Gabriel is setting the stage for his next act as TikTok’s heavily tattooed emo crush. By SOUZAN MICHAEL GALWAY PHOTOGRAPHY: (THIS PAGE) BY SONIA BROMAN; (OPPOSITE PAGE) TOP BY NOLAN BEGLEY; BOTTOM RIGHT BY ALBERT HOANG; NAIL ART COURTESY OF ARAZ/BLUSH NAIL BAR. I’m very impulsive with my tattoos,” says Dom Gabriel over a video call. “When , WKLQN RI RQH , JHW LW GRQH ZLWKLQ ʕʗ hours.” The singer-songwriter for the band Døntcall originally hails from Scarborough, Ont., but has been in L.A. since the February release of Perfect Match, the 1HWL[ VXSHUFDVW GDWLQJ VKRZ KH DSSHDUHG RQ %HIRUH WKDW KH ZDV RQ 1HWL[śV The Mole.) Today, he has over a million followers on TikTok, where KH VKRZV Rƨ KLV LQWULFDWH QDLODUW GHVLJQV ERQGV ZLWK IROORZHUV RYHU KLV ORYH RI SRSSXQN PXVLF DQG 7D\ORU 6ZLǟ ŝ7D\ORU 6ZLǟ LV HPRff VKH LV SRSSXQNř, GRQśW FDUH ZKDW anybody says!”) and, most of all, pokes fun at his emotional nature. He’s quick to point out that he’s a Cancer, which is RǟHQ WKRXJKW RI DV WKH ]RGLDFśV PRVW VHQVLWLYH VLJQ ,Q IDFW *DEULHO KDV WKH ZRUGV ŝ&5< %$%<Ş WDWWRRHG EHKLQG KLV HDUff KH JRW LW GRQH ULJKW DǟHU Perfect Match ZUDSSHG flOPLQJ to pay homage to how he was portrayed on the show. “As soon as I landed back home, I was like, ‘I have to get this.’” A lifelong emo skater kid, Gabriel says he sees his tattoos as a visual diary, not only capturing moments of his life but also tracking his mental and emotional state at the time of each new permanent addition. “When I started getting tattoos, I would get my elbow, stomach or hands done,” says Gabriel. “My tattoo artist [Matt Vanasse of Toronto’s Corner Pocket Tattoo] VD\V , XVHG WR SLFN WKH PRVW SDLQIXO DUHDV WR JHW WDWWRRHGff , WKLQN WKDW WKLV ZDV D VXEFRQVFLRXV FKRLFH DQG UHHFWLYH RI the fact that I wasn’t in the best place mentally.” And when it comes to the tattoos themselves, the progression is as clear DV GD\ ŝ%HFDXVH , JHW WDWWRRV VR LPSXOVLYHO\ , NQRZ H[DFWO\ what I was going through when I got each one,” he says. “I FDQ OLWHUDOO\ VHH P\ SHUVRQDO JURZWKŞ *DEULHO H[SODLQV WKDW the nature of his tattoos has gotten progressively happier. For H[DPSOH RQH RI KLV KDQGV LV LQNHG ZLWK LPDJHV RI D NQLIH DQG FRƫQ ZKHUHDV WKH RWKHU KDQG LV DGRUQHG ZLWK RZHUV ŝ0\ tattoos have become more colourful and wholesome over time.” CANVAS MY TATTOOS 58 SUMMER 2023
BECAUSE I GET TATTOOS SO IMPULSIVELY, I KNOWEXACTLY WHAT IWAS GOING THROUGH WHEN I GOT EACH ONE. Gabriel’s ink journey started out wholesome, too. Kind of. +H JRW KLV flUVW WDWWRR ŝ0LOHVŞřKLV EURWKHUśV QDPH DW DJH ʔřWKRXJK KH VD\V KLV PRWLYHV ZHUH SDUWO\ PLVFKLHYRXV ŝ, ZDQWHG D EXQFK RI WDWWRRV DQG , NQHZ LI , KDG RQH DOUHDG\ ZKHQ , ZHQW WR RWKHU WDWWRR VKRSV WKH\ ZRXOGQśW TXHVWLRQ PH RU DVN IRU P\ ,'Ş KH H[SODLQV ŝ6R , FRQYLQFHG P\ PRP to let me get my little brother’s name tattooed. Two days ODWHU , JRW P\ HQWLUH ELFHS GRQHŞ 1RZ WKDW KHśV HVVHQWLDOO\ FRYHUHG LQ LQNřKHśV ORVW FRXQW RI KRZ PDQ\ KH KDVř*DEULHO VD\V KHśV QRW WRR FRQFHUQHG ZLWK KRZ VHQWLPHQWDO WKH\ DUH ŝ, KDYH D IHZ WKDW , JRW ZKLOH , ZDV GUXQN ZKLFK ZHUH EDG GHFLVLRQV EXW , WKLQN WKDWśV NLQG RI FRROŞ ,Q IDFW WKH VHOI SURFODLPHG URPDQWLF RQFH JRW PDWFKLQJ WDWWRRV D OHDI ZLWK D JLUO RQ D flUVW GDWH ŝ:H QHYHU VSRNH DJDLQŞ KH ODXJKV <HW JHWWLQJ DQRWKHU PDWFKLQJ WDWWRR RU HYHQ D IXWXUH SDUWQHUśV QDPH RU LQLWLDOV WDWWRRHG LVQśW Rƨ WKH WDEOH ŝ, WKLQN LWśV EDGDVVŞ KH VD\V ŝ7KRXJK NQRZLQJ KRZ HPRWLRQDO , DP ,śG SUREDEO\ JHW KHU flUVW PLGGOH DQG ODVW QDPHŞ *DEULHO QRW RQO\ ZHDUV KLV KHDUW RQ KLV WDWWRR VOHHYH EXW DOVR XVHV QDLOV DQG IDVKLRQ DV IRUPV RI FUHDWLYH VHOIH[SUHVVLRQ $ QDLODUW ORYHU ZKR FDOOV KLV QDLO DUWLVW 'LDQD DW 7RURQWRśV /X[\ 1DLOV WKH ŝEHVW LQ WKH ZRUOGŞ KH RǟHQ VKRZV Rƨ KLV LQWULFDWH GHVLJQV RQ 7LN7RN WR WKH GHOLJKW RI KLV IROORZHUV +H DOVR H[SHULPHQWV ZLWK DQGURJ\QRXV IDVKLRQ UHJXODUO\ ZHDULQJ FURS WRSV DQG VNLUWV DQG WDNLQJ VW\OH LQVSLUDWLRQ IURP 3ULQFH 'DYLG %RZLH 'HQQLV 5RGPDQ DQG .XUW &REDLQ $QLPH DQG WKH )LQDO )DQWDV\ YLGHRJDPH VHULHV DUH DOVR PDMRU VRXUFHV RI LQVSLUDWLRQ IRU *DEULHO VLQFH ŝWKH FKDUDFWHUV LUW ZLWK DQGURJ\Q\ DQG EOHQG PDVFXOLQH DQG IHPLQLQH VW\OHVŞ These days, Gabriel has found a style that’s true to who he is in all of KLV FUHDWLYH RXWSXWVffl PXVLF WDWWRRV QDLOV DQG IDVKLRQ ŝ:KHQ , JRW P\ QHFN WDWWRR , WKRXJKW P\ PRP ZRXOG IUHDN RXW EXW VKH GLGQśW HYHQ QRWLFHŞ KH VD\V ŝ$ IHZ GD\V ODWHU , DVNHG KHU Ś$UH \RX VHULRXV"ś DQG VKH ZDV OLNH Ś, WKRXJKW \RXśYH DOZD\V KDG WKDWś 1RZ ZKHQ , JHW D QHZ RQH SHRSOH GRQśW HYHQ QRWLFH , WKLQN WKDW PHDQV ,śYH IRXQG P\ DHVWKHWLFŞ $QG DOWKRXJK KH KDV D FDUHIUHH ODLGEDFN DSSURDFK WR ZKDW KH JHWV WDWWRRHG RQ KLV ERG\ *DEULHO GRHVQśW GRZQSOD\ WKH LPSRUWDQW UROH WKDW LQN KDV KDG LQ KLV OLIH ŝ2QFH , FRPPLWWHG WR P\ KDQG WDWWRRV LQ SDUWLFXODU , IHOW OLNH , KDG WR UHDOO\ PDNH LW EHFDXVH WKHUH ZDV QR JRLQJ LQWR WKH FRUSRUDWH ZRUOG DǟHU WKDWŞ KH VD\V ŝ7KDW LVQśW HYHQ QHFHVVDULO\ true anymore, but it was a mental WKLQJ , NQHZ , ZDV GHVWLQHG WR GR VRPHWKLQJ FUHDWLYH DQG ZKHQ , JRW P\ ZKROH KDQG WDWWRRHG , WROG P\VHOI Ś<RX KDYH QR FKRLFH EXW WR EHFRPH DQ HQWHUWDLQHU QRZ VR JHW WR LWśŞ SUMMER 2023 59 MY TATTOOS CANVAS
Cheekbone Beauty Meet some beauty brands that have made it their mission to support the well-being of communities around the globe. By LAUREN KNOWLES TKH EHDXW\ LQGXVWU\śV VXVWDLQDELOLW\ LVVXHV DUH FRPSOH[ OD\HUHG DQG FRQVWDQWO\ HYROYLQJ EXW ZKLOH LWV JD]H LV RǟHQ set on creating a future that is more environmentally responsible (with major strides being made when it comes to WKLQJV OLNH UHXVDEOH UHF\FODEOH DQG UHOODEOH SDFNDJLQJ EUDQGVś VRFLDO HƨRUWV FDQ EH RYHUORRNHG 6RFLDO VXVWDLQDELOLW\ involves examining the impact that businesses have on people and communities and consistently working toward LPSURYLQJ WKDW LPSDFW 7KLV LQFOXGHV EXW LV QRW OLPLWHG WR HQVXULQJ WKDW IDLU ODERXU SUDFWLFHV DQG OLYLQJ ZDJHV DUH EHLQJ PHW DQG WKDW FRPPXQLW\ PHPEHUV DUH JLYHQ RSSRUWXQLWLHV IRU HPSOR\PHQW DQG HFRQRPLF JURZWK %HORZ DUH IRXU EUDQGV WKDW DUH FRPPLWWHG WR XSOLǟLQJ FRPPXQLWLHVřERWK ORFDOO\ DQG JOREDOO\řWKURXJK LQLWLDWLYHV WKDW JLYH EDFN CANVAS COMMUNITY 60 SUMMER 2023
EVIO The inspiration for Canadian brand Evio came at a time when founderBrandi Leifso needed an escape: in 2012, when she was seeking refuge from an abusive relationship at a domestic-violence relief shelter. She is frequently asked “Why did you stay?”—a question that often carries an undertone of guilt and shame directed at her, the survivor. This biased line of questioning is one thing that motivates Leifso to support other survivors. She says that her personal history allows for a special connection between her brand and the more than 27 shelters and integrated programs across North America that she works with. These programs support survivors and children of domestic violence and work toward breaking the cycle of abuse. “I have the privilege of being in a really fortunate position now,” says Leifso. “And I’m able to assist while also understanding how we might be able to challenge biases and stigmas from those who haven’t experienced these kinds of circumstances.” In an inspiring power move, the brand launched its first body-care line— the Body Autonomy collection—earlier this year. For the campaign, the Evio community wrote letters detailing what bodily autonomy means to them. The launch “highlighted that each individual has the right to choose what’s best for them,” shares Leifso. This dusty-rose shade borrows its name from model, actor and former FASHION cover star Ashley Callingbull, of the Enoch Cree Nation, who in 2015 became the first Canadian and Indigenous woman to win the Mrs. Universe title. Cheekbone Beauty Warrior Liquid Lipstick in “Ashley,” $36 CHEEKBONE BEAUTY The vision for CheekboneBeauty came to founderJenn Harperin a dream about lipgloss back in 2015.“I saw these Indigenous girls with the rosiest cheeks—they were so happy,” she shares. What began as a dream (literally) has transformed into so much more. In 2021, Cheekbone Beauty became the first Indigenous-owned brand to be carried at SephoraCanada. TheCanadianmakeup brand still functions with the well-being of Indigenous youth at its core.“That dreamcame at a time when I was seeking to learn whymy community constantly struggles,” says Harper.“And when I learned about the residential-school system and the transgenerational trauma it caused, it all started to make sense.” Todate,CheekboneBeauty hasdonatedover$200,000to causes that support Indigenous youth (such as the First NationsChild&FamilyCaringSociety and the Shannen’s Dream organization). The company launched the CheekboneBeauty Scholarship Fund for Indigenous students in 2021 and offered its first recipient $2,500. In 2022, the prize pool expanded to award five recipients $2,500 each. “I want to show that you can use business as a force for good,” explains Harper. “We aren’t just building a brand that sells lipsticks; the real power of Cheekbone Beauty is that it is creating space for the representation of Indigenous kids and creating awareness about the issue of unequal funding for Indigenous youth.” PHOTOGRAPHY: PRODUCT SWATCHES VIA ISTOCK This moisturizing body wash nourishes the skin and scrubs away the dirt of the day while filling your shower with the calming aroma of lavender, sweet orange and chamomile essential oils. With the launch of the Body Autonomy collection, Evio donated $1,000 to reproductiverights.org. Evio Body Wash, $33 COMMUNITY CANVAS SUMMER 2023 61
PHOTOGRAPHY: PRODUCT SWATCH VIA ISTOCK L’OCCITANE French beauty brand L’Occitane’s 40-year mission to source African shea butter began in the early 1980s, when founder Olivier Baussan flew to Burkina Faso in search of “women’s gold”—the skin-loving butter derived from shea trees. In the four decades since, shea butter has become a key ingredient in the brand’s products. The team of women (whom the brand calls “guardians of the shea trees”) bringing this butter from “tree to skin” has multiplied from around a dozen to over 10,000. In 2018, Justine Humbert, L’Occitane’s biodiversity and sustainable ingredients manager, was part of the team that founded the brand’s RESIST (Resilience, Ecology, Strengthening, Independence, Structure and Training) program, which strives to improve the economic and climate resilience of its workers through co-operatives with three main goals in mind. “First, we want to look after the shea trees and ensure they will still be there tomorrow so that the women will be able to earn an income,” says Humbert. “Next, we want to modernize processes with the addition of machinery and motorized equipment, because the traditional method uses a lot of wood and is physically demanding work. And third, we aim to make these women more self-sufficient and less dependent on L’Occitane orders, which is important for a balanced, healthy relationship.” Beyond the program, L’Occitane’s efforts have helped the workers attract new shea butter consumers and take ownership of their production facilities. Today, L’Occitane is working with five co-operatives in Burkina Faso and Ghana, where the brand purchases locally crafted fairtrade shea butter. “This 40-year partnership shows that economic development, women’s inclusion in the workplace and biodiversity regeneration can be merged to create a path forward,” says Humbert. Fuelled by L’Occitane’s powerhouse Immortelle essential-oil ingredient, this cream also uses moisturizing shea butter and plumping pea peptides to improve skin’s elasticity and fade dark spots. L’Occitane Immortelle Shea Body Balm, $85 CANVAS COMMUNITY 62 SUMMER 2023
LXMI When Anna-Maja Björkenvall took over the role of Lxmi CEO after the passing of founder Leila Janah in 2020, she continued the brand’s existing relationships with women-run co-operatives in Africa and South America. Björkenvall is maintaining Lxmi’s mission to employ and empower women across the globe while creating excellent beauty products. “We don’t start with a product in mind; we start with an ingredient in mind,” she explains. This was also the way Janah worked. She partnered with fair-trade women’s co-operatives in Northern Uganda to help source what has become the brand’s signature superfood ingredient: nilotica. Lxmi pays East African women around three times the local living wage for their services sourcing nilotica. As Janah once said in an interview with Fast Company, “We can address poverty while also making our skin better.” Uninterested in creating skincare products driven by trends, Lxmi focuses instead on perfecting its formulations. “The mission for us is not to crank out products,” explains Björkenvall. “It’s creating mindfully crafted plant-based products.” Along with nilotica, the brand uses ancient superfood ingredients found in many of nature’s untapped ecosystems, such as the South Suriname-sourced hydrating tuhka Brazil nut oil and antioxidant-rich kigelia extract. “There are amazing ingredients out there and amazing people sourcing them,” she says. “We’re just the vehicle for these stories to come together.” This face oil’s standout ingredient is moisturizing tuhka Brazil nut oil, which is sourced in partnership with Conservation International and the South Suriname Trio tribe to aid in the protection of 235,000 hectares of the Amazon rainforest’s tribal land. The number “33” is said to hold spiritual power, which promotes healing, harmony and humanitarianism. Lxmi 33 Face Oil, $146 THERE ARE AMAZING INGREDIENTS OUT THERE AND AMAZING PEOPLE SOURCING THEM. COMMUNITY CANVAS SUMMER 2023 63
CHECK IN DAILY for THE RELEASES YOU NEED TO KNOW FASHIONMAGAZINE.COM/THE-DROP @FASHIONCanada / @FASHIONMagazine TODAY LAST WEEK TOMORROW LAST WEEK
TEXT BY BERNADETTE MORRA. PHOTOGRAPHY BY ROYAL GILBERT. STYLING BY KAREN CLARKSON. JACKET, $920, PANTS, $480, AND BROOCH, $600, PHILOSOPHY DI LORENZO SERAFINI. EARRINGS, $4,100, RING (LEFT), $5,450, RING (RIGHT, NARROW), $1,670, AND RING (RIGHT, WIDE), $5,350, CARTIER. POM & CIRCUMSTANCE Action star Pom Klementieff was born in Canada—sort of. She shares why that is, along with more of her remarkable story, on page 76. D R E S S I N G • D R E A M I N G • D I S C O V E R I N G
Words by BERNADETTE MORRA Photography by NICK MERZETTI Styling by ASHLEY GALANG Creative direction by GEORGE ANTONOPOULOS The sky is the limit for social media star Myles Sexton, who is adding podcaster to their many roles.
Swimsuit, $295, Jade Swim at Holt Renfrew. Jumpsuit, $320, Jesse Woon Sam. Boots, $250, L’Intervalle. Eyewear, $45, U3 Select. Bracelet (left), $1,380, bracelet (right, top), $1,080, and bracelet (right, bottom), $935, Omi Woods. Hair accessory (worn throughout), hairstylist’s own.
Swimsuit, $385, catsuit, $510, shoe covers, price upon request, and shoes, $775, Marine Serre. Bag, $195, Kanuk.
Top, $95, U3 Select. Dress, $420, Rotate at Hudson’s Bay. Boots, $230, L’Intervalle. Ring (left), $180, and ring (right), $275, Omi Woods.
T’S KINDA HARD TO BELIEVE THAT MYLES Sexton was once a sheltered country boy who had QHYHU KHDUG RI 0DGRQQD RU &KHU ŝ:KHQ , flQDOO\ OHǟ my little town and moved to Halifax, people would ask me which one I liked and I had to say, ‘I don’t know who either of those people are,’” laughs Sexton from their airy living room in their Waubaushene, Ont., home, just steps away from Georgian Bay. “It was a bit of a culture shock because I didn’t grow up with any of that.” Themakeup artist, activist andsocialmedia stardescribes being raised in a house that was “tucked in the woods on a hilloverlooking abeautifulriver andgiantwillowtrees.”The property was in Nova Scotia on the border of Newport Corner and Brooklyn, which had a combined population of IHZHUWKDQ ʕʓʓʓ ŝ0\ SDUHQWVOLYHG D YHU\ VLPSOH EHDXWLIXO country life,” explains Sexton. “They never really believed inTVor video games orthingslike that.Theywouldjusttell me to go outside and not come back in until the sun went GRZQ6R ,ZRXOGH[SORUH WKH IRUHVW DQGVHHZKDW, FRXOGflQG and watch the plants grow. Nature will always be a part of what grounds me.” ,Q $XJXVW 6H[WRQ DQG WKHLU flDQF¨ ERXJKW WKHLU KRPH LQ Waubaushene as a way to bring more balance to their life. <RX ZRXOG QHYHU NQRZ LW IURP 6H[WRQśV ERXQF\ SHUVRQDř ZKHUH WKH\ RǟHQ EHJLQ D VRFLDO SRVW ZLWK D FKHHU\ ŝ+H\ FXWLHVŞřEXW FLW\ OLIH ZDV WDNLQJ LWV WROO ŝ, DP VR EDG DW VD\- ing no,” they admit. “Iwasn’ttaking any time formyself, and I think I was burning out.” Demands included content creation for advertising partners, appearances on shows like Cityline and The Social and ambassadorial duties for the Canadian Foundation for AIDS Research (CANFAR). On top of that, Sexton had a full-time job as an educator for )HQW\%HDXW\ZKLFK KDG WKHP\LQJ DOO RYHU &DQDGD DQG WR the United States. “It wasintense,” they say. They decided to kisstheirFentyBeauty role goodbye and WDNH ZHHNHQGV Rƨ DV ZHOO DV D EUHDN LQ WKH PLGGOH RI WKH GD\ to walk Atlas, their Australian cattle dog. “I’ve been blown away by howmuchwildlifewe see here,” they smile, citing a bear and lots of deer. “And there are these giant woodpeckersthat are the size of a cat.” The return to nature has been super healing for Sexton. “I’m really big into Japanese forest bathing,” they share. “I WUXO\ EHOLHYH WKDW WUHHV JLYH Rƨ SDUWLFOHV WKDW ZH DEVRUE through our skin and they reduce our stress, anxiety and blood pressure.” Thisnewchapterhas alsocomewithnewprojects.Sexton ZLOO WDNH RQ PRUH RI D OHDGHUVKLS UROH ZLWK 6H[XHQW CANFAR’s youth-focused HIV and sexual-empowerment program. (Sexton is HIV+.) And in January, they released WKHLU flUVW YLGHR DV SDUW RI DQ RQJRLQJ SDUWQHUVKLS ZLWK -HDQ PaulGaultier. “It’s me talking about HIV and getting to celebrate JPG’s fragrance and fashion,” they say. “So that was really a big one.JPGhas beenmy favourite brand since Iwas baby Myles.” Next on the horizon is a podcast, which is an extension of 6H[WRQśV DGYRFDF\ ZRUN ŝ,śOO EH FRYHULQJ GLƨHUHQW WRSLFV around inclusive language and creating awareness about HIV/AIDS and sobriety,” they explain. “This will allow me WR JR LQWR PRUH GHSWK FRPSDUHG WR LQ D ʓVHFRQG YLGHRŞ And like many of us, Sexton is reconciling their love of fashion with theirsense ofresponsibility. “I’m trying to be as conscious as I can,” they say. They seek out small-batch indie designerssuch as Montreal’s Denis Gagnon, whose highZDLVWHG ZLGHOHJ WURXVHUV KDYH EHHQ D JRWR IRU flYHSOXV years.Toronto jewellerydesignerJennyBirdandgender-free, queer-focused New York brand Fang are otherfavourites. With a wardrobe that includes body-con dresses and thigh-high boots,Sexton admitsto being nervous about how their new neighbours were going to receive them. “I was dressing down when I would go to the grocery store and Costco and things like that,” they say. “And then people started recognizingme fromTikTok and they’d be like, ‘Oh, \RXśUH QRW ZHDULQJ \RXU UHJXODU RXWflWVśŞ 6R 6H[WRQ DPSHG XS WKH IDVKLRQ IDFWRU ZKLFK KDV VSDUNHG D GLƨHUHQW VRPHwhat bemused,reaction. “Now, every time Ileave the house, they’re like, ‘Are you going to an event?’” 70 SUMMER 2023 INSPO TRAILBLAZER
Jacket, $2,245, and corset, $1,680, Vivienne Westwood. Earrings, $60, COS.
Jacket, $350, Monier. Skirt, $130, U3 Select. Swimsuit, $345, Abysse at Holt Renfrew. Bracelets, $215 each, Omi Woods. Boots, Sexton’s own.
Jacket, $850, Mindful Pigs. Top, price upon request, Acne Studios. Skirt, $110, Unlike. Boots, $230, L’Intervalle.
Dress with scarf, $33,595, Gucci. Boots, $250, L’Intervalle. Earrings, $145, Monbouquette. Necklace, $2,800, Swarovski.
Top, $55, The Giving Movement. Pants, $370, Rotate at Hudson’s Bay. Boots, stylist’s own. Hair, Duyen Huynh for Lakmé. Makeup, Myles Sexton. Prop styling, Laura Branson. Photo assistant, Ryan Francoz. Fashion assistant, Kareem Allan McClean.
Top, $2,800, pants, $10,950, and shoes, $1,570, Ferragamo. Earrings, $295, Shaun Leane. Cartilage earring (worn throughout), Klementieff’s own.
Words by ANNIKA LAUTENS Photography by ROYAL GILBERT Styling by KAREN CLARKSON Creative direction by GEORGE ANTONOPOULOS Fight or flight? Guardians of the Galaxy’s Pom Klementieff says, “Why choose when you can do both?” BRAVE COVER STORY INSPO
HREE MINUTES INTO my interview ZLWK 3RP .OHPHQWLHƨ ,śP DSRORJL]LQJř EXW QRW IRU P\VHOI ŝ2Q EHKDOI RI &DQDGD , DP VR VRUU\Ş , VD\ XQVXUH DERXW KRZ WR UHVSRQG WR KHU WDOH RI UHMHFWLRQ 7KH Guardians of the Galaxy VWDU ODXJKV FOHDUO\ QRW KDUERXULQJ DQ\ JUXGJHV .OHPHQWLHƨ ZDV ERUQ LQ ʤXHEHF &LW\ XQGHU D GLSORPDWLF SDVVSRUW ŝ$QG , OLYHG WKHUH IRU DERXW D \HDU EHFDXVH P\ GDG ZDV D )UHQFK GLSORPDWŞ VKH H[SODLQV 6KH PRYHG DURXQG D ORW DV D NLG VSHQGLQJ KHU FKLOGKRRG EHWZHHQ KHUH -DSDQ DQG WKH ,YRU\ &RDVW EHIRUH KHU)UHQFK5XVVLDQ IDWKHU DQG .RUHDQPRWKHUVHWWOHG LQ )UDQFH $V D WHHQ .OHPHQWLHƨ WKRXJKW ŝLW ZRXOG EH FRROŞ WR KDYH D &DQDGLDQ SDVVSRUW +RZHYHU VKH ZDV GHQLHG RQH GXH WR KHU IDWKHUśV GLSORPDWLF VWDWXV DW WKH WLPH RI KHU ELUWK 7R PDNH PDWWHUV ZRUVH \HDUV ODWHU ZKLOH RQ D SUHVV WRXU IRU RQH RI KHU PDQ\ 0DUYHO PRYLHVVKH ZDVQśW DOORZHG LQWR 7RURQWR EHFDXVH RI YLVD LVVXHV $JDLQ , DSRORJL]H DQG DJDLQ VKH ODXJKV ŝ, ORYH &DQDGD EXW \RXśYH WROG PH ŚQRś D ORWŞ VKH VD\V ŝ,śP NLQGD WUDXPDWL]HGŞ >/DXJKV@ 1RW WKDW , FRXOG WHOO .OHPHQWLHƨ DVNVLIVKH FDQ WXUQ KHU FDPHUD Rƨ GXULQJ RXU YLGHR FKDW ŝ, GRQśW ZDQW WR VHH P\ IDFHřLW DQQR\V PHŞ VKH ODXJKV , JHW RQO\ D EULHI JOLPSVH RI WKH DFWRU LQ KHU 1HZ <RUN &LW\ KRPH LQ D FDVXDO FRWWRQ VWULSHG WHH ZLWK KHU EORQG KDLU PHVVLO\ SXOOHG EDFN $QG ZKLOH LW ZRXOG EH HDV\ WR FDOO KHU RXW RQ WKH LURQ\ RI KHU VWDWHPHQWřVKHśV VWDUULQJ LQ WZR RI VXPPHUśV ELJJHVW EORFNbusters: *XDUGLDQV RI WKH *DOD[\ 9RO ʖ RXW QRZ DQG 0LVVLRQffl ,PSRVVLEOHř'HDG 5HFNRQLQJ 3DUW 2QH SUHPLHULQJ LQ -XO\řFRPLQJ IURP .OHPHQWLHƨ ZKR LV VR VLQFHUH DQG IXOO RI VXQVKLQH LW GRHVQśW VHHP ULJKW ,Q FDVH \RXśUH D 0DUYHO &LQHPDWLF 8QLYHUVH 0&8 DPDWHXU Guardians of the Galaxy KDV EHHQ D SKHQRPHQRQ VLQFH ʕʓʔʗ &RPSDUHG WR LWV FRPLFERRN FRXQWHUSDUWV LWśV DQ HFFHQWULF DQG HFOHFWLF EUHDWK RI IUHVK DLU ZLWK D NLOOHU VRXQGWUDFN DQG FRPHG\ FKRSV ULYDOOLQJ DQ\ :LOO )HUUHOO SURGXFWLRQ 2I FRXUVH LW KDV DOO WKH QRUPDO GULSSLQJV RI DQ 0&8 PRYLH ELJ FDVW ELJJHU H[SORVLRQV DQG HYHQ ELJJHU PXVFOHV EXW WKH IUDQFKLVH QRZ LQ LWV WKLUG DQG UXPRXUHG WR EH flQDO LQVWDOOPHQW KDV DQ HYHQ ELJJHU KHDUWřDQG .OHPHQWLHƨ LV DW WKH FHQWUH RI LW +HU FKDUDFWHU 0DQWLV LQWURGXFHG LQ ʕʓʔʚśV VHTXHO LV D ELJH\HG DQWHQQDHG &HOHVWLDO HPSDWK ZKR FDQ FRQWURO SHRSOHśV HPRWLRQV ŝ6KHśV NLQGD OLNH WKH JOXH WKDW NHHSV WKH *XDUGLDQV WRJHWKHU HVSHFLDOO\ LQ YROXPH WKUHHŞ VD\V .OHPHQWLHƨ ZKR DOVR ORYHV WKDW VKH JHWV WR EH WKH FRPLF UHOLHIřD UROH QRW XVXDOO\ JLYHQ WR ZRPHQ ŝ,W JLYHV PH D ORW RI IUHHGRP WR MXVW EHZHLUGŞ VKH VD\VZKLFK LVVRPHWKLQJ , FDQ WHOOVKH GHOLJKWV LQ .OHPHQWLHƨ LV TXLFN WR ODXJK DQG HYHQ TXLFNHU WR ODXJK DW KHUVHOI 6KH LV XQXVXDOO\ XQJXDUGHG DQG UHDGLO\ VKDUHV KHUVWUHDP RI FRQVFLRXVQHVV ZKHWKHU VKH LV UHFHLYLQJ D SDFNDJH DV VKH GLG LQ WKH PLGGOH RI RXU FDOO RU FRQWHPSODWLQJ ZK\ VKH FDQśW GR D FDUWZKHHO ŝ, QHYHU NQRZ LI P\ OHJV DUH VWUDLJKWŞ 7KH RQO\ WRSLF VKH VHHPV UHOXFWDQW WR GLVFXVV LV KHU IDPLO\ .OHPHQWLHƨ VXƨHUHG D VHULHV RI GHYDVWDWLQJ FORVH SHUVRQDO ORVVHV VWDUWLQJ ZLWK WKH GHDWK RI KHU IDWKHU ZKHQ VKH ZDV VWLOO YHU\ \RXQJ ,Q GHVSHUDWH QHHG RI VRPH HVFDSLVP VKH LPPHUVHG KHUVHOI LQ PRYLHV ŝ$V D FKLOG , KDG D OLWWOH GUHDP LQ P\ KHDG WR EHFRPH DQ DFWRU EXW , QHYHU VDZ DQ\RQH ZKR ORRNHG OLNH PH RQVFUHHQ VR , GLGQśW WKLQN LW ZRXOG EH SRVVLEOHŞ VKH VKDUHV 7KRXJK VKH WKULYHG LQ WKHDWUH FODVVHV IURP D » INSPO COVER STORY 78 SUMMER 2023
Dress, price upon request, Christopher Kane. Earrings, $4,100, and ring, $5,450, Cartier.
Dress, $15,500, and shoes, $990, Loewe. Earrings, $295, and ring, $420, Shaun Leane.
Dress, $3,200, Prada. Earrings, $4,100, ring (left), $5,450, and ring (right), $5,500, Cartier.
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Dress (worn on top), $20,310, gloves (worn on top), $3,970, and dress (worn underneath) and gloves (worn underneath), prices upon request, Bottega Veneta.
Jacket, $4,490, and skirt, $2,755, Moschino. Earrings and ring, prices upon request, Chanel.
Top, $310, Raey at MatchesFashion. Pantashoes, $3,270, Victoria Beckham. Earrings, $4,100, necklace, $8,220, bracelet, $10,700, ring (left), $1,670, and ring (right), $5,350, Cartier. Hair, Marcia Lee for One Represents using Hair by Sam McKnight. Makeup, Ariel Yeh for Saint Luke/ Tatcha. Nails, Sasha Goddard for Saint Luke/Shoreditch Nails and Byredo. Fashion assistants, Molly Ellison and Maggie Curwin. Hair assistant, Anais Rosenthal. Photo assistants, Nick Collins and Philip Bradley. Producer, TheArcade.
BROWN ORBUST Grist doesn’t wear a lot of black. “I’m very fair, so I don’t want to look too severe,” he shares. Instead, he opts for lighter alternatives like brown, navy or tortoiseshell, such as this pair of floral-adorned Pradas. Gregory Grist doesn’t need glasses. At least, not really. “My prescription is so negligible that they just prevent me from having headaches,” he laughs. So why does he currently KDYH ʕʓʓ SDLUV RI H\HZHDU LQ KLV Toronto apartment? It’s a long story. Grist has always loved to play dress-up. “Growing up, there were a lot of costumes and giant foam heads in our house,” he shares. “We’ve always been a wacky family, and I think that really sparked my creativLW\Ş $ǟHU KLJK VFKRRO WKH FROOHFWRU moved from his hometown in Nova Scotia to Southern Ontario to pursue a career in fashion design before pivoting to visual merchandising. But LW ZDVQśW XQWLO ʕʓʔʔ DQG DQ LPSURPSWX MRE RƨHU DW 2SWLFDO 2XWORRN DQ H\Hwear boutique in Yorkville, that his REVHVVLRQ WUXO\ WRRN Rƨ DQG KHśV been there ever since. $W flUVW JODQFH *ULVWśV FROOHFWLRQ looks chaotic: a mismatch of metals and plastic crammed into an antique armoire that looks about to burst. But upon closer inspection, you can see that there’s a method to the madness. Listing Princess Diana and Italian Vanity Fair editor-in-chief Simone Marchetti as his fashion inspirations, *ULVW GHVFULEHV KLV VW\OH DV ŝRUDO skeezy and precious” and admits to KDYLQJ D VRǟ VSRW IRU DYLDWRUV DQG Elton John-esque silhouettes from » A lifelong love affair with playing dress-up has inspired Gregory Grist’s 200-plus eyewear collection. By ANNIKA LAUTENS Sunny Days INSPO COLLECTING 86 SUMMER 2023
PAINTPROJECT Tired of these wooden frames looking a bit basic, Grist decided to take matters into his own hands. “I liked the colours in one of my shirts, and I happened to have paint that matched, so I gave these glasses a little splash.” SIGNATURE SUNNIES Why have one when you can have three? Grist explains that this Emmanuelle Khanh style has become his signature look—hence the duplicates. “Good design is timeless and works with everything,” he says. WISHFULFILLMENT Grist had a hard time finding these Chanel sunnies. After they sold out, he badgered the brand to find him another pair. What makes these aviators worth fighting for? “They have a flip-up mirror, so you can check yourself out when you take them off,” he says with a smile. “I love them!” FELINE FIXTURE “They love to chew the ends of my glasses,” Grist says of his two cats. “There are a couple in my collection that now have little nibble marks at the back, so when I get home, my eyewear immediately goes back in the cabinet.” PHOTOGRAPHY BY LAWRENCE CORTEZ COLLECTING INSPO SUMMER 2023 87
COMB OVER In addition to his eyewear collection, Grist has accumulated a fair amount of combs, and these Emmanuelle Khanh x Maitrepierre sunnies marry the two. “When I had my long hair, they kept it brushed back,” he shares. “They’re equal parts novelty and functional.” TAKEHEART The self-proclaimed “eternal consumer” purchased these heart-shaped Saint Laurent spectacles the day before the photo shoot. “As fashions change, I’m always going to need a new pair of sunglasses to wear,” he reflects. FINDERS KEEPERS While Grist sources most of his sunnies from Optical Outlook, he found these Dior ones in perfect condition, with their original packaging, in the back alley behind his old apartment. “Sorry, but finders keepers losers weepers,” he laughs. CABINET OF CURIOSITY Where does one store 200 pairs of glasses? In a compact cabinet, of course. “I don’t usually keep the cases,” the collector reveals. “I have little sleeves that I’ll put them in when I’m going from point A to point B.” But for the long term, he stows his sunnies in a vintage armoire in his room. INSPO COLLECTING 88 SUMMER 2023
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Ann Korman, jewellery designer and founder of ARK, worked in editorial and styling in New York before getting a master’s degree in art and becoming a painter. She also studied Kabbalah, Buddhism and meditation, and it was on a quest in India to deepen her spiritual knowledge that she discovered another passion: jewellery. At her home studio in Los Angeles, Korman starts her lengthy process by painting watercolours of images such as the mandala—the symbol of the universe—which inspired the earrings shown here. Once she has the design and colours for a new piece perfected, the artwork comes alive, though not at any great pace. For these hoops, Korman chose a laborious enamelling technique called plique-à-jour because it reminds her of stained glass. “Architects use stained glass in churches and temples because it creates a transcendent atmosphere,” she explains. “It’s meant to draw the eye upward and inspire meditation and prayer.” But plique-à-jour is not often used in jewellery because of its complexity. So it’s fitting that the rainbow motif on these earrings represents the seven chakras but is also a symbol of hope—hope, perhaps, that all goes well during their meticulous handcrafting. Seeing theLight TEXT BY BERNADETTE MORRA. PHOTOGRAPHY: BACKGROUND VIA ISTOCK. EARRINGS, $5,650, ARK. INSPO Ƅ IT FOREVER 90 SUMMER 2023
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