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Going-to-the-Sun:
We figured we would be able to stand and look out. That
wasn’t going to happen. In fact, we weren’t going to be able
to do anything except ride and gaze. No standing and viewing,
No snacks or drinks, just gaze. The bus was obviously too
hard to clean and in a short time would be filled with varmints.
We piled in, 12 in all, with 2 rangers. Everyone had a
luncheon bag with them, but no backpack. Maybe we were
over dressed.
It was a great drive along the McDonald Creek. It’s rushing
glacial green waters poured down the mountain. Cascading
white water that would make an easy class IV rapid’s float trip,.
Whirlpools, set off to the side, where boats could get past
them.
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Going-to-the-Sun:
By the time we started to climb we were against a solid wall.
Called The Garden’s Wall, it’s elevation was about 6,000 feet.
It’s steep and above tree line with snow patches, but no
glaciers. The top would be the Continental Divide.
We stopped from time to time and over looked the road and
it’s many switch backs.
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Going-to-the-Sun:
The Conservation Corp, ‘Roosevelt Troops’ struggled with the
wall from the 1930’s. In many places it was literally chiseled
out of the granite wall, sometimes only a lane wide. The two
foot walls along the edge really weren’t assuring. Many had
broken down, and often didn’t exist.
At the first stop the driver informed us about closing the
heavy oak doors. (Our driver wasn’t really sociable; wonder
how he got his job.)
Water pours off of the walls along the road, but at one
particular spot, the Weeping Wall it was really wet; water fell
several hundred feet from above, crossing the road. We
wondered how often maintenance crews needed to work to
keep the road open. (It is closed during the winter.) Here’s
the Weeping Wall from above.
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Going-to-the-Sun:
At one spot the entire road looked to be crumbling. Had we
been driving we’d have turned around. We scraped the side
walls while looking down thousand s of feet without any
support.
This was an amazing and visually beautiful drive up the
Garden Wall of shear granite to the Logan Pass. Our
hesitation of all the good news continued at the Pass.
Clouds covered the pass and we could see off in the distance
more heavy ones; at this elevation it would be snow.
Here is a drawing of the Logan Pass Visitors Center before it
was constructed in 1964. It was part of a billion dollar ’66
Mission’ to encourage tourists to visit out-of-the-way places in
our National Parks.
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Going-to-the-Sun:
We were ready for the Visitor Center and a hot chocolate. I
paused on the way into the center..
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Highline Trail:
Across from the Center we could see the Sun Road and a
meadow with a thin trail across it.
The meadow was filled with hundreds of summer flowers.
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Highline Trail:
At the bottom of this beautiful meadow were these furry
Mountain Goats. Our first thoughtwas how white their winter
coats stood out on the green hill. Our thoughts changed as we
realized we’d walk right past them.
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Highline Trail:
We did and they were 40 feet away but didn’t budge. On the
far side we turned toward the ridge and this view of the
McDonald Valley.
It was so beautiful, the granite peaks, snow fields, water falls,
deep into the ravines and the lush flower laden meadows
spotted with dark green fir trees.
Over the meadow we encounter our first ‘What are we doing’
thought. Around the corner and lo and be-hold we were faced
with a shear cliff. It couldn’t be the end of the hike, even
before we began. Not at all. In front of us was a thin ribbon
of a path. About 2 ½ feet at it’s widest, but it looked like it
wavered being narrower in places.
It even tilted downward along the outside, and the loose gravel
slipped under our feet.. There was a rubber hose sized cable
along the wall. Secured every 5 feet. As we were going to
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Highline Trail:
walk along we’d hug the wall , grip the hose for dear life, and
use our walking stick to dig into the ground for extra security.
If we slipped we’d probably end up on the Sun Road down
below.
We started out, below us was the crumbled rocks, and several
hundred feet lower was the road. Above us, as if we’d look up
was the jagged outcropping of the wall, that often hung over
us. Our comfort came from gripping hose attached to the
walls.
Usually, when hiking or walking we let our feet do the feeling.
Our feet tell us what were walking on and how to adjust to
keep our balance. In addition we use our hands to help
balance and our eyes to see far enough ahead to know what’s
coming up. That’s a smart way to get around in the forest and
wilderness.
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Highline Trail:
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Highline Trail:
So what happened here. We didn’t look out. We didn’t look
ahead, we didn’t look up either. We trashed a tried and true
walking method in an instant. We watched our feet, where the
last one went and where the next one was going. All the while
clinging to the hose.
It may be that this shear cliff and trail looks like it was a ½
mile long or longer. In fact when hiking on it we felt like it
would never end. Along the way we became a little less
anxious and a little more conscious of our predicament.
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Highline Trail:
For instance we realized that we weren’t the only one kicking
the loose stones off the hillside. From time to time there were
small waterfalls that bore down between the cliff walls and
splashed across our path. Occasionally, there were opening
without any water. At one of these areas openings rocks were
falling down that we weren’t kicking. For the first time I
looked up.
I Froze!. The Mountain Goats were enough, but my god what
should we do now. Two Big Horn Sheep were just above us1
What should we do? They’re not the kind of wild animal that
we’ve had safety tutorials about. Grizzles stand tall, wild cats
stand your ground and move back slowly, Elk and Moose,
climb a tree. But Big Horn Sheep; it’s obviously their game.
Did anyone mention that they were massively big animals, and
had glue on their hoves so they wouldn’t slip? Of course not
It was their choice. We moved on and hoped they were
headed further up the ravine.
We kept going, and soon were beyond the garden hose cable.
Still as Arlene in the blue parka shows we were hugging the
cliff wall.
You can see the shelf dropping off. Further out ahead the trail
cuts between a steep meadow. Getting back to the issue at
hand you know. Gravity plays a role in how comfortable you
feel. Mostly as it tug’s on you pulling towards the bottom of
the valley.
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Highline Trail:
Even so it’s easier now because we don’t think we’ll fall
straight down. Even though it’s still as steep yet we don’t feel
like we’d fall all the way, rather just crumple up in a heap in
the meadow grass.
You can see that Arlene has had a change of heart. She’s
saying ‘This is much more fun than it started out to be.’
Maybe we shouldn’t call these green hillsides meadows, but,
the hills are so thick and lush filled with spring green grasses
and brightly colored blue, yellow flowers, paint brush, bear
grass and mountain lilies. Beneath them and along the trail is
this flaky, chip like stone. On some hillsides it looks like a
landslide. It was those chips that the
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Highline Trail:
Big Horn Sheep were knocking loose on us. They get wet as
you can see and we often had to wade or splash across them.
In some places the water freezes and often snow drifts cover
the trail. The good news the stones aren’t slippery.
We have really relaxed at this point and have begun throwing
snow balls. This is turning out to be a really nice day.
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Highline Trail:
We came to a stand of fir trees. It’s near the end of our hike.
We’ll take a break here for lunch, sitting on the rocks of this
grand mountain side.
We’ve come about 5 miles along the trail. Beyond that
another 5 miles is an overnight cabin.
Glacier has many cabins tucked in and around the park. They
were built in the early years, between 1912 and 1934 by the
Great Northern Railroad to encourage easterners to visit the
west and the Park. Mostly they are remote and require horses
or long hikes to get to them. They say a total of 350 cabins
and lodges were built during that time.
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Highline Trail:
Our luncheon on the rocks was just enough to bring out some
Squirrels and Marmots.
Obviously no big deal, as long as they left us alone. But that
wasn’t to happen. A Marmot took an interest in my boots and
was sniffing around them. Our guide was alarmed and
jumped up quickly telling me to stand still. ‘Freeze’!
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Highline Trail:
Our tour guides, the Rangers, were both Ford scholars in their
second year studying Environmental Law. One will study in
Norway next summer. She took her walking stick and
encouraged the Marmot to move away from my shoes.
Meanwhile she explained that Marmots carry rabies, and other
diseases. She was afraid that it might be contagious because of
the time of day. ‘They shouldn’t be active now.’
With the Marmot disposed of we started back toward the
Visitors Center at Logan Pass.
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Highline Trail:
Returning always seems to be the easy and shortest part of a
hike. Arlene stopped for a couple of awesome photos.
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Highline Trail:
And one of my all time favorites.
Where she seems to be suspended in the air.
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Highline Trail:
On the way back we saw lots of wild game. They weren’t
there when we originally hiked by. How could we have missed
them?
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Highline Trail:
When we got to the ledge Arlene wanted to drop her walking
stick into the valley. It was only quick action, reasoning with
her that saved the day. We had spent a lot of time and work
finding and making those walking sticks. We had made
several, each from a different type of wood. She kept it while
grabbing the cable and squeezing up against the stone wall.
Everyone did about the same thing, no one was relaxed
walking the tight rope.
Well almost no one. We were only half way when we realized
where those Mountain Goats had been hiding out.
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Highline Trail:
All those goats from the Visitor Center Meadow had
awakened and crossed to the western meadows by our
pathway. (well actually their pathway.)
Oh! My! Gosh! ‘Here they come!’
‘Arlene! Maybe we should run’. ‘Can we make it the last 30
yards?’ ‘Hurry up! Keep Moving!’ ‘Keep your stick ready’. ‘If
they get to close try to push them away with the stick’. ‘Keep
the stick close between them and the wall’. ‘Keep Moving.’
‘Hey, What’s going on?’ ‘They don’t seem to be coming down
the path.’ ‘They’re just standing around back there.’
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Highline Trail:
‘Could they be waiting for us to get across?’
‘What do you think?’ ‘They are just standing there crowded
together.’
‘Keep Moving!’ ‘Don’t look back were almost out of range,
the meadow is just a few more yards.’
We made it off the shelf and around the corner into the
meadow.
Whew! ‘That was close.’ ‘Keep going, they may still be
coming.’
As we crossed the meadow the Goats didn’t’ appear.
We realized that we were last in line, even the Ranger was
ahead of us. That’s not uncommon on our hikes, as we often
linger behind. It gives us more time to look around and enjoy
the scenery. This time we would have preferred not to be last.
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Highline Trail:
Everyone had realized that the Goats were following behind
us. It caused quite a chatter. We all visited the Center’s
facilities and grabbed a coffee or hot chocolate.
The Rangers didn’t seem to be too excited about it, as if it was
a natural trail they took daily from meadow to meadow. That
may be usual for them, but not so much for us. We were
plenty excited.
After a stop at the Visitors Center we climbed into our waiting
Red Stagecoach for the trip down the narrow mountain road
back to our camp.
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Highline Trail:
It was a pleasant drive, with out any rain or snow. We passed
the Weeping Wall, the single file road the collapsed edge and
walls, and all along the beautiful mountain side into the
McDonald Valley. It was a grand ride, yet we were really tired
when we arrived back at camp.
Tomorrow there will be time to talk about the Highland Trail,
and how it was built. These trails, all over Glacier may have
originally been animal paths for deer or goats, and converted
into human hiking trails. We’ll see what we can learn.
Glacier National Park:
It’s a slow and easy start to the day. The sun rose and looks
like we’ll have a nice day. We’re planning on leaving this
morning, but there doesn’t seem to be much of a hurry.
We’ve thought a little about how the trails were constructed.
There are so many in the park and they mostly are in the
mountains along steep valleys. It must have taken a huge work
force to cut them out of the dense forest.
In fact that must be the answer. These trails were originally
built by the hundreds of Civilian Conservation Corp during
the depression years. We know they literally whittled out the
roads and bridges in the park. So we believe that in their
‘spare’ time they hiked all over this huge park and with every
step they shoveled another foot of a pathway and trail. At the
end of the trail they often built an overnight cabin. There’s an
old saying from World War One ‘Another day and Another
Dollar’. That probably was true during the depression years in
Glacier National Park.
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CHAPTER 8
Crossing the Prairie:
‘Rolling, Rolling, Rolling, Keep them Rolling, Get them up,
keep them up, Rawhide.’
Out of Apgra by noon we turned east at West Glacier and
followed the Great Northern Rail along the Park’s southern
border, up, up to the last of our Continental Divides, Marias
Pass, then down, out of the Rockies without as much as a
foothill to the Great Montana prairie.
We were traveling just like the Prairie Schooners
with a breeze behind us and Sea Gulls in the sky. It’s been a
good year for rain, rolling hills as green as spring dripping
down and around. No hill over 300 feet high. A small ranch
tucked away, every so often. Always down between the hills.
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Crossing the Prairie:
Our first town was also tucked below the hills. These ranchers
have been here for a while, through summer winds and even
worst winter blizzards. The winds blow right over them, and
along the tops of the prairie hills.
It’s easy to attest to the ‘Big Sky’ when driving along US Route
2 , the northern most road in the U.S. There are two choices,
look up to the big blue sky or look out at the rolling green
hills.
Today we were so lucky because it’s cloudy, and we can see
forever. Today in Glacier there’s a snow storm.
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American Buffalo:
We stopped in Havre for the night. Havre is along this great
prairie and the site of one of Montana’s many Buffalo Jumps.
American Indians for thousands of years had stampeded
buffalo over a hill or cliff to slaughter.
This oil painting is an example. It’s from the grand collection
in the Cody Museum.
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American Buffalo:
Here is a short story of the American Buffalo and their North
American range prepared by W.T.Hornaday.
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American Buffalo:
th
By the end of the 19 century the Buffalo were all gone. We
have visited different sites where Buffalo were hunted and
where they might have grazed. The most surprising is in
eastern Georgia
where anthropologists Believe they used a salt lick. It’s over
grown, but we were able to taste the salty soil.
Here is an amazing map estimating the furthest expanse of
these noble animals. As far east as the Great Lakes and South
as Georgia.
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Fort Peck:
The Corp of Engineers ,COE, had dammed the Missouri
River at Fort Peck. A fascinating place. We stayed three days.
We arrived in the middle of a five State fishing contest, on the
dammed lake; Idaho, North & South Dakota, Wyoming and of
course Montana. This was a big deal and the campground was
filled with happy campers and fishing people. We had the best
fresh fish meals since Lake Winnipeg when we were coming
back from Alaska all those years ago.
The Governor’s Cup platform listed all the contestants and the
largest fish they had caught. Everyone gathered around to
watch and visit while waiting for more results.
We also entered a raffle, which we never do, and of all things
won a hand held GPS. Surprised,
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Fort Peck:
but also embarrassed, being from Florida, and taking such a
fine prize away from these people.
The dam itself is one of the last COE earthen dams. It was a
tough build, collapsing once before being completed. In the
dam house we came across some very large hand tools.
Richard was attracted to them because his father had left
Bethlehem Steel as a youngster to go to Lehigh University
because the wrenches were bigger than he was. Here he is
standing beside a few large wrenches.
There was also a summer theater in the small town, and we got
to go to the ‘Guys and Dolls’ performance. It was great fun.
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Fort Peck:
Just south of the dam the Missouri cuts through a number of
turns, called the Breakers.
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Fort Peck:
We drove down along the river before putting our kayaks in
the water and paddling up stream. The current was too strong
and after a short while we turned around and returned.
That was a good idea as the road was pretty rough and we
were worried that it might rain. If that happened we might be
stuck trying to get back to Camp.
This was a really nice stop, but we had miles to go before we
turn into our driveway at home.
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Theodore Roosevelt National Park:
The whole western side of North Dakota seems to be the
National Park. We’ve crossed the state several times to Devils
Lake and further to Fargo, where the Red River always
overflows.
This trip we stopped at Medora, the southern entrance of the
Park. We again went to a summer theater show, this one was
outside, in a large amphitheater, like the show in Texas.
The little Missouri River runs through the park. As we drove
around we realized that their were no falls or rapids for 8 or 10
miles up the river into the park. If only we had a second auto,
we could drive to a spot; drop off the boats and float down
the river to our camp in Medora and then drive back up to get
our drop-off car.
These plains were much like Montana’s, with rolling green
hills. The Park is also the home of hundreds of wild mustang
horses, all are protected from ranchers.
The stallion and leader of this small herd is the black one. We
never learned why, but it’s funny to see them resting
(snuggling) their heads on others backs, like snuggling.
Observers of these horses have given all of them names.
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Theodore Roosevelt National Park:
We also hiked to a Coal Fire. For years the ground, and coal
under it have been on fire. It’s never been extinguished. This
valley was created by the burning smoldering coal over 25
years.
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Theodore Roosevelt National Park:
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Crossing the Prairie:
Moving on we passed miles and miles of fields full of wheat,
corn, hay and lovely flowered fields of flax and canola.
Deadwood:
Going south we stopped in Deadwood South Dakota to go to
a rodeo and parade.
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Deadwood:
Before moving on we participated in a court room theater
show over Wild Bill Hickok. It was as corrupt as the original
and we lost. The sniveling coward Crooked Nose Jack McCall
went free.
Look at all these sleaze balls, no wonder he was freed. That’s
me on the far left of the corrupt court.
Custer:
In the Black Hills we stayed in a nice campground with
electricity. We took the kayaks out and later went into the
town of Custer. Custer’s Baker’s Bakery and Cafe was the
highlight of our meals. It had the finest Bison Burgers, and
Cinnamon Rolls. The scent of the baking goods were to much
for us and on the way out we bought a huge loaf of
Pumpernickel.
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Custer:
There are Motorcycle ‘Bike Weeks’ all over the country ;
hundreds of bikers gather to celebrate. Just north of
Deadwood, and the Black Hills the largest Bike Week of all is
held in Sturgis every year. During Sturgis Bike Week it’s
almost impossible to find a place to park, anywhere within a
hundred miles.; we were really lucky to find one three blocks
from Main Street. We walked to the Bakery from there..
Mammoth Dig:
Just south of the Black Hills is an area where many Mammoths
remains have been found, Hot Springs. It was a swampy place
where young Mammoths were believed to have wandered off,
falling into this pit, and couldn’t get out.
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Mammoth Dig:
This story is like one we’ve read about a young herd African
Elephants without adult supervision that wandered around the
plains getting into fields tearing up crops and otherwise; as
youngsters not behaving themselves. Many believe that
Elephants have a social pattern that is learned. They think
these Mammoths had similar experiences.
It’s possible that over 50 large Columbian and Wooly
Mammoths became trapped and died in this sink hole.
Today it’s a renown paleontological site as excavation
continues under a pavilion the size of a football field. We
watched these students unearthing Mammoth bones with their
paint brushes. They were really careful.
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Mamouth Dig:
Last Miles:
Across Nebraska into Kansas we stopped at a Corp
campground, for two days and a paddle, before heading into
Arkansas. We didn’t stop at the ‘Blue Hair’ town of Branson,
but stayed at another Corp where we took out the kayaks one
last time at Table Rock Lake.
Often after a couple of months on the road we’ve had enough
and need to go home. It seems to take us a long time to cross
the country. 300 or 400 miles a day and then we hold up for a
couple. By this time we were hell bent on getting home. In
this case the summer had been longer than we had expected
and we were ready to be home.
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Last Miles:
From Arkansas we made a single stop in Mississippi at the
Hollywood Casino in Tunica, then a straight shot home.
It’s time to celebrate. We’ve had such a swell summer crossing
the great Northwestern States and the Big Sky.
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APPENDIX 1
Montana: Eastern Section
South-Western Trip: West from Little Big Horn to Great
Falls, Lake Placid & Missoula.
North-Eastern Trip: From Libby East to Glacier National
Park to Ft. Peck.
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Montana: Western Section
South-Western Trip: West from Little Big Horn to Great
Falls, Lake Placid & Missoula.
North-Eastern Trip: From Libby East to Glacier National
Park to Ft. Peck.
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Idaho:
Southern Trip: Missoula to Lolo Pass across the Bitterroot
Mountains to Lewiston.
Northern Trip: West into Sandpoint North to Bonners Ferry
and East to Libby.
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Washington:
Southern Trip: West across the High Desert along the
Columbia River North to Yakima.
Northern Trip: East across the Cascades to Swan Lake into
Idaho.
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Legendry Lake Missoula:
Boundaries for Lake Missoula: From the far West of
Northern Idaho, Coeur D’Alene to north of Kalispell, east
past Flathead Lake & south of Missoula
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