Polenta, Chickpea, Niçoise, 174–175 Pommes Anna, 572–573 Pommes Pochées, 682 Pompano, meunière–style or grilled, 296 Porcini. See Cèpes Pork. See also Bacon; Ham; Sausage(s) braised shoulder (variation), 500 brining demi–sel, 528 ham, 106–107, 528 roasts, 520 and Cabbage Soup, 464–465 Cassoulet, Bean and Duck, Baked, 469–470 Chops, Braised Shoulder, with Prunes, 497, 498–500 Chops, with Red Cabbage Flavored with Vinegar, Apples, and Bacon, 537–538 crown roast of, 513 French products and terminology, 9–10 Pâté, Country–Style, 87–88 Pâté in a Crust, Hot Rectangular, 94–95 potée, 457 roasting, 517 Roast Rack of, with Red Cabbage, 518 Sauerkraut with Sausages, Bacon, and Shoulder of (Choucroute Garnie), 525–528 Sautéed Noisettes with Prunes, 496–497, 498 sautéeing, 500–501 terrine forcemeat, 86, 89 Port in cooking, 11 Steak with Green Peppercorns, 486 Turnips, Confit of, with Foie Gras and, 562–563 Veal Kidneys, with Mushrooms, Mustard and, 543–544 Potage, 178, 229 Germiny, 185–186 Julienne Classique, 230–231 Printanier Fou, 232–233 de Queue de Boeuf, 198–201 à la Reine, 345 Potato(es) in Aïoli, Le Grand, 74–75 Cake (Pommes Anna), 572–573 with Cheese, Puréed, 145 Chicken, Casserole Roast, 361 chowder, seafood (variation), 247 Gratin Baked Creamed, 569–572 Beef Hash, 446–447 of Beef, Leftover, with Onions, 445–446, 571–572 and leek soup base, 179–182 and Leek Soup, Cold, 177, 179 mashed. See Potato(es), Purée(d) Niçoise Salad, 53–54 Purée(d), 374 flavored, 392, 603–604 gratin (variation), 571 reheating, 603 with Truffles, 602–603 Raclette, Traditional, 143–144 Raclette, Untraditional, 144–145 Salad Classic Parisian–Style, 43–44 sausages with, 535 types of potatoes, 44 variations, 43, 44–45 and Salt Cod Spread, Provençal, 76–77 Sauerkraut with Sausages, Bacon, and Pork Shoulder, 525–528 Sautéed, Sprinkled with Chopped Truffles, 601 sautéed variations, 145, 602 Tapenade Salad, Provençal, 84 truffles with, 601–604 Pot–au–Feu, 454–465 Beef and Vegetables, Poached, Farmhouse–Style, 456 broth from, 455 Chicken Poached in Beef Broth, 460–461 condiments with, 458 cooking method, 455 of fish, 246 leftovers, in terrine, 458 Pork and Cabbage Soup, 464–465 rare meats, preventing grayness, 465 with Short Ribs, Red Wine, 459 variations, 458–459 Potée, 457, 464–465 Pot Roast, 419–434 Beef, French–Style Basic, 425–426 Cold, 425–426 braising liquid, 424 cooking methods, 419–424 Lamb, Leg or Shoulder of, Braised for Seven Hours, 430–432 Lamb Shanks with Red Wine, Braised, 432–433 larding, 420, 423 Veal Shanks (Osso Buco), Braised, with Vegetable “Confiture”, 433–434 Veal Shoulder, with Morels, 428–430 Pots de Crème Ginger (au Gingembre), 637–638 molds, 13, 637 Poule au Pot, 460–461 Poulet en Cocotte, 361 Fricassee de, aux Cèpes Seches, 372–373 Fricassee de, à l’Oseille et aux Épinards, 375–376 Rôti, 352 à l’Ail et aux Foie Gras, 355–356 Farci sous sa Peau avec Épinards et Fromage Frais, 353–354 INDEX 723
Poulet (con’t) Sauté Algérienne, 370 Archiduc, 370 Bercy, 370 à la Bretonne, 370 aux Cèpes, 370 Chasseur, 370 au Curry, 370 à l’Estragon, 370 aux Fines Herbes, 370 à la Hongroise, 370 Marengo, 370 à la Normande, 370 Parmentier, 371 Saint–Lambert, 371 à la Soupe à l’Ail, et aux Tomates, Safran et Basilic, 196–197 à la Vichy, 371 au Vin Rouge, 365–367 Poulpe en Daube, 245–246 en Gelée, Terrine de, 247 Poultry. See Chicken; Duck; Squab; Turkey Pound Cake, 657 Lemon and Vanilla, 658 Praline Paste, 695 Preserves, 673–674. See also Jam jars for, 676 Strawberries in Syrup, 675–676 Profiteroles, 148 Prosciutto Artichoke, and Parsley Terrine, 108–109 dry–cured, 104 Quiche, Dried Cèpe, 159–160 rendered fat from, 9 Veal Blanquette, Quick and Simple, 413–414 Provençal Cookies, Candlemas, 693 Flatbread, 172 Lamb Stew, 440–442 Potato and Salt Cod Spread, 76–77 Tapenade Salad, 84 Vegetable Stew (Ratatouille), 582–584 Prunes Pork Noisettes, Sautéed, with, 496–497, 498 Pork Shoulder Chops, Braised, with, 497, 498–500 rabbit with (variation), 399 Puff Pastry Apple Tart, Thin, Made with, 613 Cookies, Palm Tree (Palmiers), 692 Mussels with Sea Urchin Sauce, Miniature Servings of, 271–273 on Soup, Baked, Dried Cèpe and Morel, 190–192 tarts (variations), 159, 163, 612 Purée(s). See Potato(es), Purée(d); Vegetable(s), Purée(s) Purée Georgette, 184–185 Q Quail, artichoke, and parsley terrine (variation), 108–109 Quatre Épices, 386 Quatre–Quarts au Citron et à la Vanille, 658 Quenelles, 540 Queues de Boeuf à la Sainte–Ménehould, 204 Quiche about, 153–154 Bacon–Custard (Lorraine), 158 Cèpe, Dried, 159–160 Dough, Basic, 155–157 pans, 154 Shrimp and Sorrel (de Crevettes et à l’Oseille), 160–161 variations on Quiche Lorraine, 158–159 Quince(s) Grape “Butter” with Pears and, 678–679 Paste, 678 R Rabbit, 395–407 boning saddle of, 398 Braised, Long–, 402–403 carving saddle of, 404 civet (stew), 401 cooking methods, 395–396 cutting up, 396 doneness, 401 Fricassee of Young Rabbit with Pearl Onions, Bacon, and Mushrooms, 397 Grilled Young Rabbit, 404–405 with Mustard, 400 variations on fricassee and sauté, 399 wild, 405 Raclette Traditional, 143–144 Untraditional (Improvisée), 144–145 Radicchio, in green salad, 49 Radish(es) Anchovy and Garlic Sauce with Mixed Vegetables, 82 Glazed, 560–561 Ragoût Printanier, 586–587 Raie à la Grenobloise, 298 Raisiné, 678–679 Raisins, with grated carrots (variation), 35 Ramekins, 13 Raspberry(ies) Cordial, 683–684 724 GLORIOUS FRENCH FOOD
Jelly Candies, 697 Linzer Cookies, 690 Poached, 680 Soufflés, Frozen, 626–627 Ratafia, 683 de Framboises, 683–684 Ratatouille, 582–584 Ravigote Sauce, 205 Ravioli, Meat–Filled (Farcis á la Viande), 448–449 Red Cabbage with bacon and vinegar (variation), 537 Flavored with Vinegar, Apples, and Bacon, Pork Chops with, 537–538 Pork, Roast Rack of, with, 518 Salad with Pistachios, 37 Red Currant(s) Duck with (variation), 393 jelly, glaze for fruit tarts, 608 Red Onion(s) beef and beet salad (variation), 70 Chicken Salad, 70–71 Red Wine Beef Broth, 450 Beef Stew with Pearl Onions, Mushrooms, and Bacon, 438–439 Bordelaise Sauce, Steak with, 483–484 brown sauce, 484 Chicken with Red Wine Sauce, 365–367 for cooking, 10–11 Coq au Vin (authentic), 362–363, 367 Eggs, Poached, with Red Wine Sauce, 112–116 Fish Broth, 310 Lamb Shanks with, Braised, 432–433 Octopus Daube, 245–246 Oxtail Stew, 202–203 and Oysters, New York Strip Steak with, 264 Pot–au–Feu with Short Ribs, 459 Pot Roast, French–Style, 425–426 Salmon Matelote, 243–244 Shallot Butter, 490 Rémoulade Celeriac, 33 Herb, Caper, and Pickle, 492 Rice Bisque, Blue Crab, 344–345 Pudding, Bavarian cream in, 644 salads, 71 Tomatoes, Stuffed, 565–566 Ricotta, Chicken, Roast, Stuffed under the Skin with Spinach and, 353–354 Rillettes, Duck, 384–385 Roast. See Meat Roast; Pot Roast; names of meat and poultry Roasting pans, 15 Roe lobster, removing, 337 oysters with, 254 scallop, toxins and, 287 Sea Scallops à la Nage Finished with the, 286–287 sea urchin, 254, 255 Rognons de Veau aux Champignons, à la Moutarde et au Porto, Les, 543–544 Rolling pins, 15 Romaine, in green salad, 50 Rooster in Red Wine Sauce (Coq au Vin), 362–363, 367 Root Vegetables. See also names of root vegetables cooking methods, 82 glazed, 558–561 Roast, Mixed, 563–564 roasting, 563 selecting, 10 shaping, 21–22 in soup, 226, 228 Roquefort, soufflé (variation), 134 Rouille, 73, 229 in fish soup, 234, 235 Roux thickener, 220, 355 fat, flour, liquid, amounts of, 360 Rum Bananas, Poached, 681 Eggnog, The Best Holiday, 644 Russe Salad, 61 S Sabayon Sauce in dessert soufflés, 627 sole Marguéry (variation), 311–312 Sablés, 689–690 Saffron with carrots, grated (variation), 35 Garlic Broth with Tomatoes, Spinach, Basil and, Sautéed Chicken Breasts in, 196–197 Mussels, Steamed, with Cream, Mint and, 269–270 Mussel Soup with Garlic Purée and, 274 pasta gratin (variation), 574 in potato salad (variation), 45 in rouille, 235 Saint–Jean Salad, 61 Salad(s). See Composed Salad(s); Green Salad(s); Vegetable Salad(s) Salad Dressing. See Mayonnaise; Vinaigrette Salade d’ Artichauts aux Noix, 40–41 de Boeuf et de Betteraves, 69–70 de Chou Rouge aux Pistaches, 37 de Concumbres à la Crème, 38 de Fenouil Cru, 41 INDEX 725
Salade (con’t) de Fleurs au Pigeonneau, 55–56 aux Lardons, 52–53 Niçoise, 53–54 de Pommes de Terre, 43 de Pommes de Terre à la Parisienne, 43 de Poulet, 70–71 aux Queues d’Écrevisses, Asperges, Fèves, Fonds d’Artichauts et Morilles, 63–64 de Tomates, 42 Verte, 52 Verte aux Magrets de Canard, 381 Salmi, Squab, 376–378 Salmon with Cèpes, Powdered, and Balsamic Vinegar, 299–300 Matelote, Red Wine, 243–244 medallions, boning steaks into, 291 Medallions of, à la Nage, 290–291 Sauerkraut, Seafood with, 538–539 Smoked, in composed salads, 67 Salmonella, in chicken, 349 Salsa Verde, with pot–au–feu, 458 Salt Brine demi–sel, 528 ham, cured in, 107 Ham (Shank End), Roast Fresh, 103 pork roasts in, 520 fleur de sel, 598 Foie Gras, Whole, –Cured, 99 Ham, Cured, 106–107 Salt Pork (lard salé), 9 Sandre à l’Oseille, 314 Sandwich(es) Ham and Cheese, Grilled, 109–110 Niçoise salad (variation), 55 truffle and ham, 605 Sardines en Escabèche, Grilled, 329–330 Grilled, 325 pissala paste, 83 Stuffed with Spinach or Swiss Chard and Grilled (Farcies aux Épinards ou aux Blettes, Grilléés), 326 Sauce(s). See also Butter(s); Cream(ed); Gravy; Hollandaise Sauce; Jus; Mayonnaise; Tomato Sauce; Vinaigrette Américaine, for fish and shellfish, 340 Anchovy and Garlic, Mixed Vegetables with, 80–82 Basil, Veal Chops or Medallions with, 502–503 Basil and Garlic Paste (Pistou), 224 Béarnaise, 258, 488 Bordelaise, Steak with, 483–484 broth reduction system, 220 Brown, 5, 484–485 Crayfish, Chicken with, 341–342 deglazed pan, 4, 220 chicken, 350–351, 354 method, 18–19 steak, 480, 484 for game, roast, 405 Herb, Eel or Whatever Fish with, 241–242 Juniper Cream, Ham Steaks with, 111 Madeira, Calves’ Liver, Sautéed Sliced, with, 554–555 Maltaise, Asparagus with, 79–80 Meat Glaze (Glace de Viande), as base, 3–4, 220–221 Medieval Spice Dipping (Cameline), 547 Mignonnette, 253 Morel, Mushroom Soufflés, Twice–Baked, with, 138–140 Oyster, Chicken Liver Flans with (variation), 166 Parsley, Steamed Lobster with, 339–340 Ravigote, 205 Red Wine Chicken with, 365–367 and Oysters, New York Strip Steak with, 264 Poached Eggs with, 112–116 Sea Urchin, Mussels with, Miniature Servings of, 271–273 shellfish, chicken or meat with, 342–343 shellfish cooking liquid in, 66, 249, 274, 290, 310, 312 Tapenade Salad, Provençal, 84 vegetable purée thickeners, 314, 355, 373–375 for vegetables, 72–73, 77 Mediterranean, 73 Vinegar and Pepper, Hare with, 406–407 Watercress, Artichokes, Baby, Fennel, Leeks, and Garlic with, 589–590 white, classic French, 10 White Wine, Butter, and Egg Yolk, Fillets of Sole with (Marguéry), 310–312 White Wine, Mussel–Flavored, Broiled Mussels with Onions and, 270–271 Saucisses, 533 Maison, 532 Saucissons, 533 à l’Ail, 534 Sauerkraut Homemade, 529–530 with Sausages, Bacon, and Pork Shoulder (Choucroute Garnie), 525–528 Seafood with, 538–539 Simplest Shoulderless Choucroute Garnie, 529 Saumon, Filets de, à la Poudre de Cèpes et au Vinaigre Balsamique, 299–300 Saupiquet, Le, 111 Sausage(s) casings, stuffing, 531 Cassoulet, Bean and Duck, Baked, 469–470 Choucroute Garnie, Simplest Shoulderless, 529 fillings for, 530 Garlic, Simple, 534 726 GLORIOUS FRENCH FOOD
Homemade (Maison), 532 Pork and Cabbage Soup, 464–465 with potato salad, 535 regional varieties of, 533 Sauerkraut with Bacon, Pork Shoulder and (Choucroute Garnie), 525–528 Sauté de Boeuf ou d’Agneau en Surprise, 451 Sauté de Filets de Bar à la Marmelade de Legumes, 301–302 Sautéing chicken, 368–369 fish, 302–303, 305 vs fricassee, 372 meats, 440, 480, 500–501 safety tips for, 555 vs stewing, 450 vegetables, 440 Sauté pan, 480 Savarin Cake, 653 Kirsch–Flavored, 654–655 Scallion(s), Anchovy and Garlic Sauce with Mixed Vegetables, 82 Scallops Bay vs calico scallops, 287 cooking methods, 287–288 Shrimp, and Crayfish à la Nage, 288–289 Sea cooking methods, 278–279 à la Nage Finished with the Scallops’ Roe, 286–287 roe, toxins and, 287 Sauerkraut, Seafood with, 538–539 selecting, 277–278 shucking, 276 with Vegetable Broth and Julienned Vegetables, 284–285 with Vegetable Broth, Poached, Finished with Flavored Butters, 285–286 Seafood. See Eel; Fish; Octopus; Sea Urchin(s); Shellfish Sea Urchin(s) roe, 254, 255 Sauce, Mussels with, Miniature Servings of, 271–273 Selle d’Agneau Rôti au Basilic, 513–515 Serrano Ham, 102, 104 Shallot(s) Beurre Blanc, 281–282 Butter, Red Wine, 490 Hangar or Flank Steak with, 487 Mussels, Steamed, with White Wine, Parsley and, 266, 268 Sole, with White Wine and, Braised (Bercy), 307–310 Tartar Sauce, 549 in vinaigrette, 48 Shellfish. See also Clam(s); Cockles; Crab; Crayfish; Lobster; Mussel(s); Oyster(s); Scallops; Shrimp Américaine sauce for, 340 and bean salad (variation), 476 in boudins blancs (variation), 536–537 Broth, Bay Scallops and Shrimp or Crayfish à la Nage, 288–289 Butter, 335–336 in cassoulet, 474 Chowder, Fish and, French–Style, 247–248 consommé (variation), 216 cooking liquid as sauce base, 66, 249, 274, 290, 312 in Court Bouillon Court Bouillon for Cooking à la Nage, 279, 283 Sea Scallops à la Nage Finished with the Scallops’ Roe, 286–287 Sea Scallops with Julienned Vegetables and, 284–285 Sea Scallops with, Poached, Finished with Flavored Butters, 285–286 custard, 164 eggs, baked, with (variation), 119 flavor sources for, 334 in garlic broth, poached (variation), 195 in Niçoise salad (variation), 55 in potato salad (variation), 43, 45 quiche Lorraine (variation), 158–159 Salad and bean (variation), 475 classics, 63 Crayfish, Asparagus, Fava Bean, Artichoke Bottoms, and Morel, 63–65 variations, 66–67 in soufflés (variation), 134, 138 toxins and, 287 Sherry Vinegar, 51 Shortbread Cookies, 689–690 Dough, for tarts, 615, 620 Short Ribs, Pot–au–Feu with, Red Wine, 459 Shrimp Bay Scallops, and Crayfish à la Nage, 288–289 Quiche, and Sorrel, 160–161 sauce, chicken or meat with (variation), 342–343 Skate with Capers and Lemon, 298 Slicers, 13–14, 19 Slicing technique, 22 Smithfield Ham, 102, 104 Smoked Fish, in composed salads, 67 Snail(s) butter, 490 with garlic and parsley butter (variation), 275 Snow Eggs, Meringue, 664 Socca, 175–176 Sole with Bread–Crumb Coating, Light, Fillets of (à l’Anglaise), 304 Hot Butter and Lemon (Meunière), 293, 294 INDEX 727
Sole (con’t) Meunière variations, 294–295, 305–306 à la Normande, cooking liquid, 312 with Shallots and White Wine, Braised (Bercy), 307–310 skinning and cleaning, 297 with White Wine, Butter, and Egg Yolk Sauce, Fillets of (Marguéry), 310–311 Sorrel Chicken Fricassee with Spinach and, 375–376 creamed, baked eggs with (variation), 118 in potato salad (variation), 45 quiche Lorraine (variation), 158 Quiche, Shrimp and, 160–161 seafood chowder (variation), 247 Soup, Cream of, 185–186 Soup (leek and potato base), 182 stemming, cleaning, preparing, 22 in vegetable stews, 591 Walleye with, 314 Soufflé(s) Cheese, 130–134 cooking method, 131–132 Dessert Chocolate, Hot, 629 Grand Marnier, 630 hot, about, 627 Raspberry, Frozen, 626–627 doneness, 631 Goat Cheese, Individual, 135–136 Mushroom, Twice–Baked, with Morel Sauce, 138–140 Twice–Baked, 136–138 variations, 134, 138 Souffle Chauds au Chocolat, 629 au Fromage, 130–134 au Fromage de Chèvre, 135–136 Glacès aux Framboises, 626–627 au Grand Marnier, 630 à la Suissesse, 136–138 à la Suissesse aux Champignons, Sauce Morilles, 138–140 Soup(s). See also Broth Artichoke, 184–185 baked soups, 190–193 Bisque, Blue Crab, 344–345 Bread and Onion, 190 bread thickener, 184 Cèpe and Morel, Dried, Baked, 191–193 Consommé about, 206–207 Beef, 214–215 Clarified with Egg Whites and Ground Meat, 213–214 cold, 217 cooking method, 207–208 with Crêpes, Shredded, 212–213 Tomato, 216–217 variations, 215–216 cream, preventing souring, 182 egg yolk finish for, 185 Escoffier’s categories, 178 Fish Bourride, 237, 240 fillets for, cooking method, 238 Mediterranean (Bouillabaisse), 233–237 Puréed, 238–239 regional varieties, 237 Garlic, 194–195 Garlic, Duck Confit, Fresh Fava Bean, and Chard, 195–196 greens, retaining color, 181 with leek and potato base, 179–182 Leek and Potato, Cold, 177, 179 Mussel, cooking methods, 273 Mussel, with Garlic Purée and Saffron, 274 Oxtail, 198–201 cold (variation), 201 with Herbs and Creamy Tomato Sauce, Cold, 201 Pork and Cabbage, 464–465 puréed, 345 Sorrel, Cream of, 185–186 Squash and Bread, 190–191 Tomato, 183–184 Vegetable, Mixed, 222–232 with Basil and Garlic Paste, French Country, 222–226 with garlic broth base (variation), 195 ingredients for, 228–229 Julienned, Classic, 230–231 Spring, Improvised, 231–232 thickeners and enricheners, 227, 229 variations, 226–227 Soupe à l’Ail, 194–195 à l’Ail aux Confit de Canard, aux Fèves Fraïches, et aux Blettes, 195–196 aux Cèpes et Morilles Seches, 192–193 aux Moules à la Purée d’Ail et au Safran, 274 à l’Oignon, 187–189 à l’Oignon en Panade, 190 au Pistou, La, 222–226 de Poisson à la Marseillaise, 238–239 Sour Cream, Beef Stroganoff, 453 Sourdough Crust, for Tart Niçoise, Onion, Olive, and Anchovy, 169–171 Sourdough Starter, 170 Spice Mix, Four Spice, 386 Spinach Blanquette, Vegetable, Veal Chops with, 412 Chicken, Roast, Stuffed under the Skin with Ricotta and, 353–354 728 GLORIOUS FRENCH FOOD
Chicken Fricassee with Sorrel and, 375–376 Creamed, Baked Eggs with, 118 Garlic Broth with Tomatoes, Saffron, Basil and, Sautéed Chicken Breasts in, 196–197 Oysters, Gratinéed, with Curried Hollandaise Sauce, 256–257 Oyster Stew with Chives and, 261–262 Sardines Stuffed with, and Grilled, 326 seafood chowder (variation), 247 sole á la Florentine (variation), 310 Soup (leek and potato base), 182 stemming, cleaning, preparing, 22 in vegetable stews, 591 Spreads anchoïade, 602 Cheese, Herb–Flavored Fresh, 151 Olive and Caper, 83–84 Potato and Salt Cod, Provençal, 76–77 Squab artichoke, and parsley terrine (variation), 108–109 and Flower Salad, 55–56 pâté in a crust (variation), 95 roasted, in green salad (variation), 53 Salmi, 376–378 Squash Summer. See also Zucchini Vegetable Soup with Basil and Garlic Paste, French Country, 224–226 in vegetable stews, 591 Winter and Bread Soup, 190–191 cooking methods, 224 gratin (variation), 575 peeling, 21 Vegetable Soup with Basil and Garlic Paste, French Country, 224–226 Squid and beans (variation), 476 in composed salads, 66 Steak(s), 477–495 with Bordelaise Sauce, 483–484 cooking methods, 479–480 cuts, selecting, 478–479 doneness, 481 with Green Peppercorns, 486 Hangar or Flank, with Shallots, 487 New York Strip, with Red Wine and Oysters, 264 porterhouse, carving, 482 portion size, 482 in potato salad (variation), 45 quality and aging, 479 Sauces Béarnaise, 258, 488 Bordelaise, 483–484 Brown, 484–485 compound butters, 489–490 pan–deglazed, 480, 484 seasoning, 482 Tenderloin Center–Cut, with Truffles and Foie Gras (Tournedos Rossini), 494–495 selecting, 492 trimming and cutting, 492–493 Stew(s), 435–445. See also Vegetable Stew(s) Beef, with Pearl Onions, Mushrooms, and Bacon, 438–439 beef variations, 439 braising liquid, 424 doneness, 415 Duck, 385–386 Fish and Shellfish Chowder, French–Style, 247–249 Lamb, Provençal, 440–441 lamb variations, 441–442 leftovers, uses for, 445 Lobster Newburg, 337–338 Lobster with Tomato and Cognac Sauce (à l’Americaine), 331–335 meat, ingredients of, 437, 442–444 Octopus Daube, 245–246 Oxtail, Red Wine, 202–203 Oyster cooking methods, 260–261 with Spinach and Chives, 261–262 variations, 262–263 Salmon Matelote, Red Wine, 243–244 sautés, 436–437, 450 thickeners, 436, 443–444 Veal Blanquette with Mushrooms and Baby Onions, Creamy, 408–411 Stock. See Broth Stockpot, 221 Strainers, 15–16 Strawberries Poached, 680 in Syrup, 675–676 String Bean(s). See Green Bean(s) Stroganoff, Beef, 453 Stuffing, Stuffed chicken, under the skin, 352–353, 354, 599 Chicken, Roast, with Spinach and Ricotta, under the Skin, 353–354 Eggplants, 567–568 fish, 329 Mushrooms, 566–567 Onions, Little, 568 rabbit, 405 Sardines, with Spinach or Swiss Chard and Grilled, 326 Tomatoes, 565–566 vegetables, 564–565 Zucchini, 565 INDEX 729
Suédoise Sauce, 492 Sugar poaching liquid for fruit, 682 superfine, 631 Sugar Syrup caramel and butterscotch, making, 639 Cherries in Kirsch, 684–685 Clementines or Mandarin Oranges in Sweetened Vodka, 685–686 fruit preserves in, 674, 675 fruits, candied, 686 Orange Jelly Candies, 698 Raspberry Cordial, 683–684 Raspberry Jelly Candies, 697 Savarin Cake, Kirsch–Flavored, 654–655 stages of, 628 Sweetbread(s) Braised, in the Style of a Blanquette, 415–417 sautée method, 416 Terrine, 417–418 Swiss Chard. See Chard T Tapenade, 83–84 Salad, Provençal, 84 Tarragon Butter, 490 Mushrooms, Marinated with Olive Oil, Vinegar and, 40 Oysters, Gratinéed, with Bacon, Tomatoes and, 259–260 in potato salad (variation), 44 Tart(s). See also Clafoutis; Quiche Almond Pear, 617–618 Apple Classic Home–Style, 608–609 custard (variation), 609 Pastryless, 611–612 Thin, Made with Puff Pastry, 613 Upside–Down (Tarte Tatin), 610–611 Berry, Fresh Red, 616–617 Brioche, Leek and, 162–163 brioche (quiche variation), 159 Cheese, Sweet, French–Style, 151–152 Crème Chantilly with, 609 Dough Basic (Pâte Brisée), 155–157, 607 Brioche, 161 for fruit tarts, 615 Shortbread, 615, 620 Sourdough Crust, Savory, 607 Sweetened (Pâte Brisée Sucre), 615, 619 fruit dough for, 615 fillings, 616 glaze for, 608 raw, in precooked shell, 615–616 Onion, Olive, and Anchovy, Niçoise, 167–171 pans, 154 puff pastry variations, 159, 163, 612 shells, covering rim, 620 Tartar Sauce, 549 Tarte aux Baies Rouges, 616–617 Bourdaloue, 617–618 au Fromage Blanc, 151–152 aux Poireaux, Pain Brioché, 162 aux Pommes sans Croûte, 611–612 aux Pommes Feuilletée, 513 aux Pommes à la Ménagère, 608–609 Tatin, 610–611 Tartlets, puff pastry, 612 Tempura Batter, 548 Tenderloin Beef Poached, with Pot–au–Feu Vegetables, 462–463 Roast Whole, 523–524 selecting, 492 Steaks, Center–Cut, with Truffles and Foie Gras (Tournedos Rossini), 494–495 trimming, tying, slicing, 492–493 Pork, Noisettes, Sautéed, with Prunes, 496–497, 498, 524 sautéeing, 524 Terrine(s), 86. See also Pâté Beef, Cold, 427–428 Chicken Liver, 92–93 Chocolate, Dense, 624–625 Duck, 88–90 Foie Gras, 97–98 Ham and Parsley, 104–105 Octopus, Individual Cold, 247 of pot–au–feu leftovers, 458 Prosciutto, Artichoke, and Parsley, 108–109 slicing, 108 Sweetbread, 417–418 variations, 91, 105 vegetable, 592 Terrine de Boeuf en Gelée, 427–428 de Campagne, 87–88 de Canard, 88–90 de Foies de Volaille, 92–93 de Poulpe en Gelée, 247 de Ris de Veau, 417–418 Thyme, in bouquet garni, 2–3 Tian de Courgettes, 579 Tomalley, lobster, 254, 334, 337 Tomates à la Provençal, 565–566 730 GLORIOUS FRENCH FOOD
Tomates, Sauce de, à l’Aigre–Douce, 460 Tomato(es) and beef salad (variation), 70 and Bell Pepper Mayonnaise, 492 Bisque, Blue Crab, 344–345 Consommé, 216–217 Eggplants, Stuffed, 567–568 Garlic Broth with Saffron, Spinach, Basil and, Sautéed Chicken Breasts in, 196–197 gratin (variation), 575 Lamb Stew Provençal, 440–442 Oysters, Gratinéed, with Bacon, Tarragon and, 259–260 peeling, 21, 42 Purée, 374 Ratatouille, 584 Salad, 42–43 Soup, 183–184 Stuffed, 565–566 Tapenade Salad, Provençal, 84 Veal Shanks (Osso Buco) with Beans, 473–474 Vegetable Marmalade, Sautéed Striped Bass Fillets with, 301–302 Vegetable Soup with Basil and Garlic Paste, French Country, 224–226 Tomato Sauce Beef Hash Gratin, 446–447 and Cognac, Lobster with (à la Americaine), 331–335 concassée, 580 Coulis, 580, 581 Coulis, Zucchini Gratin with, 579–580 Cream, Quick, 452 Creamy, Oxtail Soup with Herbs and, Cold, 201 with eggs, baked (variation), 118 –Marjoram, Chicken Liver Flans with, 165–166 Soufflé, Twice–Baked, 136–138 Sweet–and–Sour, 460 pot–au–feu (variation), 458 in tian (variation), 578 Tongue, Beef Braised, 551–552 cold slices in gelée (variation), 552 Tournedos Rossini, 494–495 Tourteaux, 174 Tourtes, 93, 612 Trout Blue, 289–290 with Paprika and Almonds, 300–301 Truffes au Chocolat, 694–695 Morilles, et Artichauts en Fricassée, 604–605 Truffle(s), 593–594 Baked Whole, 596 in boudins blancs (variation), 536 Butter, 491 chicken under the skin stuffing, 352, 599 cooking methods, 596–597 culinary history of, 595 in egg dishes, 597 Flans, Roast Garlic and Black Truffle, 600 Morels, and Artichokes Fricassee, 604–605 oil and juice, 62 omelet filling, 123 paste (truffade), 602 potato cake (variation), 573 in potato dishes, 601–604 Potatoes, Puréed, with, 602–603 Potatoes, Sautéed, Sprinkled with Chopped Truffles, 601–602 in potato salad (variation), 45 sandwiches, 605 selecting, 594–595 storing, 597 Tenderloin Steaks, Center–Cut, with Foie Gras and (Tournedos Rossini), 494–495 varieties of, 594 in vegetable stews, 585, 591 vinaigrette (variation), 78 white, 594, 599 with wild mushrooms, 604 Truffles Chocolate, 694–695 hazelnut (variation), 695 Truffles Sous La Cendre, 596 Truite Amandine au Paprika, 300–301 au Bleu, 289–290 Tuna Bourride, 240 à la Chartreuse, 315 Niçoise Salad, 53–54 Turkey breast, poached (variation), 461 Crêpe Gratin, 579 crêpes (variation), 650 Roast, basting, 360 Roast, with Giblet Gravy, 358–359, 360 Turnip(s) Blanquette, Vegetable, Veal Chops with, 412 Chicken Poached in Beef Broth, 460–461 Confit of, with Foie Gras and Port Wine, 562–563 Duck with, 392–393 Glazed, 560–561 potato gratin (variation), 571 Pot–au–Feu, 456 Pot–au–Feu with Short Ribs, Red Wine, 459 Pot–au–Feu Vegetables, Poached Beef Tenderloin with, 462–463 roasting, 564 selecting, 10 INDEX 731
Turnip(s) (con’t) shaping, 21, 22 Stew of Spring Vegetables, 586–587 Veal, Roast Top Round with Aromatic Vegetables, 521–522 Veal Shanks (Osso Buco), Braised, with Vegetable “Confiture”, 434 Vegetable Soup, Spring, Improvised, 231–232 in vegetable stews, 591 V Vacherin, 666 Vanilla beans, 635 Crème Anglaise, Classic, 642 Crème Brûlée, 636–637 in crème caramel, 640 Pound Cake, Lemon and, 658 Veal. 408–414, See also Sweetbread(s) Blanquette meat for, 409 Quick and Simple, 413–414 Stew with Mushrooms and Baby Onions, Creamy, 408–411 variations, 411 Broth, 217, 219, 409, 413 Chops or Medallions with Basil Sauce, 502–503 Chops with Vegetable Blanquette, 412 crown roast of, 513 cuts of, 501 farm–raised, 501 Kidneys with Mushrooms, Mustard, and Port, 543–544 Pot Roast, Shoulder, with Morels, 428–430 roasting, 519–520 Roast Top Round of, with Diced Aromatic Vegetables, 521–522 sautéeing, 500–501 Shanks (Osso Buco) with Beans, 473–474 Shanks (Osso Buco), Braised, with Vegetable “Confiture”, 433–434 Vegetable(s), 72–84. See also names of vegetables Anchovy and Garlic Sauce with Mixed Vegetables, 80–82 Aromatic, Diced, Roast Top Round of Veal with, 521–522 Assorted Cooked, Hard–Boiled Eggs, and Salt Cod with Garlic Mayonnaise (Le Grand Aïoli), 72–75 Blanquette, Veal Chops with, 412 Broth. See Court Bouillon chiffonade, 17 cooking methods, 82, 557 crêpes (variation), 650 dicing and slicing, 22 glazed, 558–561 green, cooking methods, 587 Julienned cutting method, 19–20 Sea Scallops with Vegetable Broth and, 284–285 Soup, Classic, 230–231 Veal Shanks (Osso Buco), Braised, with Vegetable Confiture, 433–434 Marmalade, Sautéed Striped Bass Fillets with, 301–302 in meat stews, 437, 444 Pot–au–Feu and Beef, Poached, Farmhouse–Style, 456 Beef Tenderloin, Poached, with, 462–463 Red Wine with Short Ribs, 459 roasting, 563 Roast Root, Mixed, 563–564 Sauce, Mediterranean, 73 sauces for, 72–73, 77 sautéing method, 440 shaping, 20–21 slicers, 13–14, 19 in soufflés (variation), 138 stuffed, 564–568 terrine, 592 for vegetable soup, 228–229 Vegetable Purée(s). See also Potato(es), Purée(d) Chile, Dried, 375 Chile, Poblano, 374–375 Garlic, Mussel Soup with Saffron and, 274 Garlic, Roast, 374 leek and potato, as soup base, 179–182 Onion, 375 Potato, 374 as sauce thickener, 314, 355, 373–375, 411 soups, 345 Tomato, 374 Vegetable Salad(s), 31–45 Artichokes, Baby, with Toasted Walnuts, 40–41 Carrots, Grated, 35 Celeriac Rémoulade, 33 crudités, ingredients for, 32 Fennel, Shaved, 41–42 Potato Classic Parisian–Style, 43–44 types of potatoes, 44 variations, 43, 44–45 Red Cabbage, with Pistachios, 37 Tapenade, Provençal, 84 Tomato, 42–43 Vegetable Soup(s), Mixed, 222–232 aromatic finishes, 227, 229 with Basil and Garlic Paste, French Country, 222–226 clear soups (potages), 229–232 with garlic broth base, 195 Julienned, Classic, 230–231 Spring, Improvised, 231–232 732 GLORIOUS FRENCH FOOD
thickeners and enricheners, 178, 227, 229 variations, 226–227 Vegetable Stew(s) Artichokes, Baby, Fennel, Leeks, Garlic, and Peas with Watercress Sauce, 589–590 improvising, 590–591 Morel, Fava Bean, and Asparagus Fricassee, 588–589 Provençal (Ratatouille), 582–584 of Spring Vegetables, 586–587 Truffles, Morels, and Artichokes Fricassee, 604–605 variations, 584–585 Velouté Sauce, 10 Blanquette, Quick and Simple, 413–414 Blanquette, Veal Stew with Mushrooms and Baby Onions, Creamy, 411 Broth for, 220 Veal, 413 Sweetbread(s), Braised, in the Style of a Blanquette, 415–417 Vegetable Blanquette, Veal Chops with, 412 Vichyssoise, La, 177, 179 variations, 179–182 Vinaigrette classic, 48 Leeks with, 77–78 morel and cèpe, 78 Mustard, 79 in Niçoise Salad, 53–55 in potato salad, 44 truffle, 78 variations, 48–49, 55, 59 in wilted salad, 53 Vinegar. See also Balsamic Vinegar Beurre Blanc, 281–282 for crudités, 32 for green salad, 49 homemade, 51 and Pepper Sauce, Hare with, 406–407 Red Cabbage Flavored with Apples, Bacon and, Pork Chops with, 537–538 selecting, 50–51 in vinaigrette, 48 Vodka Raspberry Cordial, 683–684 Sweetened, Clementines or Mandarin Oranges in, 685–686 W Waldorf Salad, 59 Walleye with Sorrel, 314 Walnut(s) Apple, and Celeriac Salad (Waldorf), 59 Chicken Salad, 70–71 Fig Jam with, 677 Toasted, Artichokes, Baby, with, 40–41 Watercress salad, 49 Sauce, Artichokes, Baby, Fennel, Leeks, and Garlic with, 589–590 Soup (leek and potato base), 182 Wheat Bread, 173 White Sauce, 10. See also Béchamel Sauce; Velouté Sauce White Wine Beurre Blanc, 281–282 Butter, and Egg Yolk Sauce, Fillets of Sole with (Marguéry), 310–312 for cooking, 11 Court Bouillon, 283–284 Fish Broth, 308 Lamb Stew Provençal, 440–442 Mussel–Flavored Sauce, Mussels, Broiled, with Onions and, 270–271 Mussels, Steamed, with Shallots, Parsley and, 266, 268 Sauerkraut with Sausages, Bacon, and Pork Shoulder, 525–528 Sole, with Shallots and, Braised (Bercy), 307–310 Windsor pans, 16 Wine. See also Madeira; Port; Red Wine; White Wine in batters, 548 for cooking, 10–11 in stews, 437 Wine Vinegar, 50, 51 Y Yam–yam Salad, 61 Yogurt Cucumbers with, Cold, 38 draining, 38 Z Zucchini Gratin, 579–580 and meat/poultry salad (variation), 71 Ratatouille, 584 Stuffed, 565 Vegetable Soup with Basil and Garlic Paste, French Country, 224–226 in vegetable stews, 591 INDEX 733
734 GLORIOUS FRENCH FOOD NOTES
NOTES 735
736 GLORIOUS FRENCH FOOD
NOTES 737
738 GLORIOUS FRENCH FOOD
NOTES 739
740 GLORIOUS FRENCH FOOD
NOTES 741
742 GLORIOUS FRENCH FOOD