Online magazine for Textiles, Clothing, Leather and Technology

online www.tok-bg.org онлайн списание за ТЕКСТИЛ, ОБЛЕКЛО, КОЖИ И ТЕХНОЛОГИИ ISSN 2535-0447
online magazine for TEXTILES, CLOTHING, LEATHER AND TECHNOLOGY ISSN 2535-0447
1/2021

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1/2021

ССЪЪДДЪЪРРЖЖААННИИЕЕ//CCOONNTTEENNSS

11//22002211
онлайн списание за ТЕКСТИЛ, ОБЛЕКЛО, КОЖИ И ТЕХНОЛОГИИ ISSN 2535-0447
online magazine for TEXTILES, CLOTHING, LEATHER AND TECHNOLOGY ISSN 2535-0447РЕДАКТОРСКИ ЕКИП:С НАЧАЛОТО НА НОВАТА ГОДИНА...!......................4

проф. Елсайед Елнашар, Египет OEKO-TEX® New Regulations ON 1 APRIL 2021/...........5
Проф. д-р инж. Йoван Степанович, Сърбия OEKO-TEX® НОВИ ПРАВИЛА ОТ 1 АПРИЛ 2021...........5

Проф. д-р инж. Душан Трайкович, Сърбия 75 YEARS HOHENSTEIN..............................................8
Проф. д-р инж. Снежана Уросевич, Сърбия 75 ГОДИНИ HOHENSTEIN..........................................8

Проф. д-р инж. Горан Дембоски, Република Северна COTTON SECTOR  WITH THE START-UP CULTURE
Македония Seshadri Ramkumar...................................................10
Проф. д-р Сешадри Рамкумар, САЩ ПАМУЧНИЯТ СЕКТОР СЪС СТАРТИРАЩА КУЛТУРА-
Проф. д-р Мария Блажева, България Проф. Сешадри Рамкумар ......................................10
Проф. Веселин Ненков, България АКТИВНО УЧЕНЕ В  УНИВЕРСИТЕТСКОТО
Доц. д-р инж. Ненад Чиркович, Сърбия ОБРАЗОВАНИЕ ПО МОДЕН ДИЗАЙН
Доц. д-р инж. Капка Манасиева, България Капка Манасиева......................................................11
Доц. д-р инж. Златин Златев, България ACTIVE LEARNING IN UNIVERSITY FASHION DESIGN
Гл. ас. д-р инж. Соня Въчинска, България EDUCATION-Kapka Manasieva ..................................11
Гл. ас. д-р инж. Кристина Савова, България DEVAN’S R-VITAL® MULTIVITAMIN TEXTILE
Д-р инж. Даниел Ангелов, България TREATMENT MEETS STANDARD 100
Инж. Наташа Сивевска, Република Северна Македония BY OEKO-TEX®...........................................................15
DEVAN’S R-VITAL® МУЛТИВИТАМИННА ОБРАБОТКА
НА ТЕКСТИЛ ОТГОВАРЯЩА НА  СТАНДАРТ 100 ПРИ
OEKOTEX®.................................................................15

ГРАФИЧЕН ДИЗАЙН: Стефка Нейкова THE STOLL BRAND DEMONSTRATES IN CHINA
СНИМКИ НА ПЪРВА КОРИЦА И 4 СТР. :©Людмила A COMPLETE SUCCESS .............................................16
Пашова-Фотограф МАРКАТА STOLL - ДЕМОНСТРИРА В КИТАЙ С
EDITORIAL BOARD: ПЪЛЕН УСПЕХ ..........................................................16
Prof. Elsayed Elnashar Ph.D., Egypt SHANGHAITEX 2021: 20TH INTERNATIONAL
Prof. Jovan Stepanovich Ph.D., Serbia EXHIBITION ON TEXTILE INDUSTRY..........................18
Prof. Dušan Trajakoviċ Ph.D., Serbia SHANGHAITEX 2021: 20-ТО МЕЖДУНАРОДНО
ИЗЛОЖЕНИЕ ЗА ТЕКСТИЛНА ИНДУСТРИЯ.............18

Prof. Snežana Uroševiċ Ph.D., Serbia HOLOGENIX AND KELHEIM FIBRES   LAUNCH CELLIANT
Prof. Goran Dembovski Ph.D., Republic of North Macedonia VISCOSE .....................................................................19
Prof. Seshadri Ramkumar Ph.D., USA HOLOGENIX И KELHEIM FIBRES ПУСКАТ
ЦЕЛИАНТНА ВИСКОЗА ............................................19

Prof. Maria Blajeva Ph.D., Bulgaria COMPLEX ASSESSMENT OF TERRY FABRICS FUNGI
Prof. Veselin Nenkov Ph.D., Bulgaria CONTAMINATION USING SPECTRAL
Assos. Prof. Nenad Ćirkoviċ Ph.D., Serbia CHARACTERISTICS
Assos. Prof. Kapka Manasieva Ph.D., Bulgaria Elsayed A. Elnashar, Danijela Paunović, 
Assos. Prof. eng. Zlatin Zlatev Ph.D., Bulgaria Stanka Baycheva, Zlatin Zlatev ...................................21
Assos. Prof. eng. Sonia Vachinska Ph.D., Bulgaria КОМПЛЕКСНА ОЦЕНКА НА ХАВЛИЕНИ ТЪКАНИ,
Assos. Prof. Kristina Savova Ph.D., Bulgaria ЗАРАЗЕНИ С ПЛЕСЕН ЧРЕЗ ИЗПОЛЗВАНЕ НА
СПЕКТРАЛНИ ХАРАКТЕРИСТИКИ
Елсайед А. Елнашар, Даниела Паунович,
Станка Байчева,  Златин Златев................................21

Eng. Daniel Angelov Ph.D., Bulgaria Реклами/ADVERTISINGS....................................6, 7, 14, 17
Eng. Natasha Sivevska, Republic of North Macedonia

GRAPHIC DESING: Stefka Neykova ОНЛАЙН КОНТАКТИ/ONLINE CONTACTS:
IMAGES FIRST COVER AND 4 PAGE: ©Ludmila Pashova [email protected], [email protected],
-Photographer
[email protected].

online www.tok-bg.org 3

1/2021

С НАЧАЛОТО НА НОВАТА ГОДИНА...!
онлайн списание за ТЕКСТИЛ, ОБЛЕКЛО, КОЖИ И ТЕХНОЛОГИИ ISSN 2535-0447
online magazine for TEXTILES, CLOTHING, LEATHER AND TECHNOLOGY ISSN 2535-0447Уважаеми читатели, сътрудници и бизнес партньори!

Изпратихме една вълнуваща и динамична година, която поради Ковид -19 преобърна
в цял свят, целият ни живот.

Всички международни събития бяха отменени, много от големите компании
трябваше бързо да се адаптират и насочат в други производства, търговията на
дребно и продажбите се сринаха, затвориха се много магазинни вериги, много
работници бяха освободени от работа, обучението се замени с онлайн форма и
много, много други промени.

Ситуацията беше много деликатна и все още незнаем, какво точно да очакваме, колко
дълго ще продължат промените, които са смесени от очевиден социален живот.

Една несигурност царуваше през тази една година, една година онлайн!

Ние успяхме да преминем
тези необичайно гъвкави
времена, сравнително
добре!

Надяваме се, че сме Ви
били полезни с актуалната
информация за леката
индустрия, която е
публикувана на сайта и
сте успяли да намерите
отговор или решение за в
бъдеще.

Ние продължаваме
за приноса на леката
промишленост с вяра,
оптимизъм и позитивно
настроени през новата 2021
година!!!

Чувствайте се свободни да
ни пишете, критикувате
или питате, ние сме на
линия за вас онлайн!

ПОЖЕЛАВАМЕ ВИ ЗДРАВА, ТВОРЧЕСКА И
УСПЕШНА БИЗНЕС 2021 ГОДИНА!

online www.tok-bg.org ОТ РЕДКОЛЕГИЯТА
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1/2021

OEKO-TEX® NEW REGULATIONS ON 1 APRIL 2021
OEKO-TEX® НОВИ ПРАВИЛА ОТ 1 АПРИЛ 2021
онлайн списание за ТЕКСТИЛ, ОБЛЕКЛО, КОЖИ И ТЕХНОЛОГИИ ISSN 2535-0447
online magazine for TEXTILES, CLOTHING, LEATHER AND TECHNOLOGY ISSN 2535-0447With more transparency into a more sustainable futurecertify. With their previous life, recycled materials pose
- this is the guiding principle behind OEKO-TEX®'s commit- different challenges than virgin material. For this reason,
ment to responsible behavior by companies and consum- they are treated differently within the STANDARD 100 by
ers in the textile and leather world. Above all, this includes OEKO-TEX® and receive a special mention in the scope of
testing and certification processes behind the OEKO-TEX® the certificate.
standards, which can provide security for companies in LEATHER STANDARD by OEKO-TEX® -
the supply chain involved in the production of textiles and Chrome- and metal-free tanned leather 
leather articles. And which in turn guarantee the highest As part of the LEATHER STANDARD by OEKO-TEX®, OEKO-
level of consumer protection and sustainability for tex- TEX® partner institutes will in future also certify chrome-
tiles and leather products. At the start of the year, the and metal-free tanned leather. These natural products are
OEKO-TEX® Association as usual updates the applicable tested for tanning metals with different limit values and
test criteria, limit values and requirements for its range receive a special mention in the scope of the certificate. 
of certifications and labels. All new regulations will finally
come into force after a transition period on 1 April 2021. 
“OEKO-TEX® aims to provide customers and partners with

the best possible services and certifications. For this rea- MADE IN GREEN and STeP by OEKO-TEX® 
son, the test criteria for OEKO-TEX® standards are updated Certifications are proving to be increasingly in demand
at least once a year based on new scientific information or - the sustainable label for textiles and leather articles
statutory requirements. A special project in 2021 will be MADE IN GREEN by OEKO-TEX® is once again the strong-
the integration of the carbon and water footprint into our est-growing OEKO-TEX® product. Compared to the previ-
MADE IN GREEN label. “, explains Secretary General Georg ous year, the number of valid labels rose by 267 percent
Dieners. An overview of the most important changes and from 1093 to 4010 (as at 31/12/2020).
innovations is given below.

Recycled materials in STANDARD 100 by OEKO-TEX®  OEKO-TEX®'s objective for 2021 is the systemic integra-
In times of climate change and dwindling raw materials, tion of the carbon and water footprint into the MADE IN
there is an increased demand for fashion and textile prod- GREEN label. This will enable consumers to find out direct-
ucts made of already used materials. OEKO-TEX® has de- ly, by scanning the label of each product, what impact the
veloped an approach to integrate recycled materials for manufacture of the respective article has on our ecosys-
greater sustainability as part of the STANDARD 100 by tem. In order to evaluate the feasibility and examine how
OEKO-TEX®. This uniform approach requires a minimum the carbon and water footprint can be incorporated as an
amount of recycled material in an article, different test integral part of the OEKO-TEX® portfolio, OEKO-TEX® has
programs depending on the origin of the material and launched a pilot project at the end of 2019 in cooperation
the definition of the necessary background information. A with CALIDA, a globally active supplier of underwear and
hangtag informs consumers about recycling in the sense nightwear clothing, and Quantis, a leading international
of a circular economy. Recycled materials are difficult to sustainability company known for their metrics-based
approach to sustainability. The intention behind product

online www.tok-bg.org 5

1/2021

онлайн списание за ТЕКСТИЛ, ОБЛЕКЛО, КОЖИ И ТЕХНОЛОГИИ ISSN 2535-0447labels is to guide consumers towards products with trans- air emissions from solid and liquid fuels as part of STeP by
online magazine for TEXTILES, CLOTHING, LEATHER AND TECHNOLOGY ISSN 2535-0447parent information on their supply chain and produced byOEKO-TEX®. Overall, the strict requirements for residues
technologies with low environmental impacts.  in textile materials also lead to a lower impact on the en-
vironment, employees and consumers.

VIRTUAL AUDITS OEKO-TEX® has introduced virtual as- New substances under observation 
sessments of production sites due to travel and contact OEKO-TEX® is also observing various substances in 2021
restrictions imposed by COVID-19. This applies to assess- based on the latest scientific findings and conformity
ments for STANDARD 100 and LEATHER STANDARD by OE- with relevant specifications. This primarily concerns some
KO-TEX® as well as virtual on-site visits for STeP and ECO substances newly classified as SVHC, which, according to
PASSPORT certifications. the REACH regulation for the protection of human health
NEW AND UPDATED LIMIT VALUES and the environment, have been identified as having par-
Per- and polyfluorinated alkyl compounds (PFAS) are in- ticularly hazardous characteristics. These include diisocy-
dustrial chemicals that are mainly used in coatings for anates, which can trigger allergic reactions through skin
textiles such as outdoor clothing. Based on a recent EU contact and inhalation. The chemical compounds dibu-
risk assessment, OEKO-TEX® has also changed its limit tyltin bis(acetylacetonate), 2-methylimidazole and 1-vi-
values for PFOA (perfluorooctanoic acid) and salts as nylimidazole will also be closely examined in the future.
well as PFOA-related substances. In ECO PASSPORT by A free webinar with detailed information on all
OEKO-TEX® titanium dioxide (TiO2) has been added to new OEKO-TEX® regulations is available on Janu-
the CAS number screening for respirable size particles.  ary 14th, 2021 via the website www.oeko-tex.com. 
In this context, STeP by OEKO-TEX® MRSL has also been The 2021 new regulations for all OEKO-TEX® products are
expanded to include titanium dioxide (TiO2) for respirable available in detail on the OEKO-TEX®
sized particles. OEKO-TEX® has been part of a ZHDC team websitehttps://www.oeko-tex.com/en/news/infocenter/
that recently published the first ZDHC White paper on air info-detail/new-regulations-2021
emissions. As part of the harmonization process, OEKO-
TEX® has tightened the Sulphur dioxide (SO2) limits for Source: www.oeko-tex.com

online www.tok-bg.org 6

1/2021

THAILAND
Southeast Asia Nonwovens and
Hygiene Technology Exhibition & Conference

THE TUTURE

OF NONWOVENS IS HERE!

Bangkok International Trade & Exhibition Centre
онлайн списание за ТЕКСТИЛ, ОБЛЕКЛО, КОЖИ И ТЕХНОЛОГИИ ISSN 2535-0447
online magazine for TEXTILES, CLOTHING, LEATHER AND TECHNOLOGY ISSN 2535-0447For additional information contact

China: Mandy Ma Europe: Monika Blume
[email protected] [email protected]
Tel: +86 10 8451 1832 Tel: +49 211 610 730
N. America: Michael Rosenberg
[email protected] Thailand: Sansanee Srisurayotin
Tel: +1 301 493 5500 [email protected]
Japan: Hiroki Takahashi Tel: +66 (0)2 559 0856

[email protected]
Tel: +81 3 6459 0444

online www.tok-bg.org 7

1/2021

онлайн списание за ТЕКСТИЛ, ОБЛЕКЛО, КОЖИ И ТЕХНОЛОГИИ ISSN 2535-044775 YEARS HOHENSTEIN
online magazine for TEXTILES, CLOTHING, LEATHER AND TECHNOLOGY ISSN 2535-044775 ГОДИНИ HOHENSTEIN

Textile testing and research partner Hohenstein has reason to celebrate: this year marks the company’s 75th anniver-
sary. Now in its third generation of family ownership, the company will spend this landmark year expanding its founda-
tion for the future. Owner Prof. Dr. Stefan Mecheels is proud: "Our motto, We live textiles, expresses exactly what has
made us special for many decades - our collective enthusiasm for textiles and the opportunity to provide solutions that
make a difference in the world.”

Prof. Dr. Stefan Mecheels, Hohenstein©

Successful Roots
Prof. Dr.-Ing. Otto Mecheels laid the foundation for an inter-
nationally-renowned company in 1946 when he founded the
Hohenstein Institutes, a textile school in Hohenstein Castle.
His son, Prof. Dr. rer. nat. Jürgen Mecheels modernized the
Hohenstein Group’s business structures and expanded into
new research and service areas such as textile finishing or
professional laundries/dry cleaning. He helped to forever
change textile safety with the STANDARD 100 by OEKO-TEX®
certification system that protects consumers from harm-
ful substances. Under Prof. Dr. Stefan Mecheels’ leadership
since 1995, Hohenstein has been at the forefront of micro-
fiber analysis, consistently perfected its created standards
for comfort and compression testing and worked to reduce
the industry’s ecological impact. Last but not least, the test-
ing laboratory in Hong Kong, which has been in operation Image: 1946, Hohenstein Castle
online www.tok-bg.org 8

1/2021

онлайн списание за ТЕКСТИЛ, ОБЛЕКЛО, КОЖИ И ТЕХНОЛОГИИ ISSN 2535-0447
online magazine for TEXTILES, CLOTHING, LEATHER AND TECHNOLOGY ISSN 2535-0447
Image: Years of Hohenstein Headquarters Boennigheim ©
since 2011, and the Hohenstein textile testing laboratories in Bangladesh and India, which were opened in 2018, en-
sure even greater market proximity.

Solutions for the Global Textile Industry
Today, Hohenstein specializes in the testing, certification and research of all kinds of textile-related products. With a
total of more than 1,000 employees at its headquarters in Bönnigheim and in more than 40 branches, contact offices
and laboratories worldwide, the company faces the current challenges of the global industry.

"Textile sustainability remains a major focus for us and is woven through every decision we make," explains Stefan
Mecheels. “Even services that are seemingly focused on innovation contribute somehow to longer lasting products,
less waste and more safety. Our Digital Fitting Lab helps brands leap forward with digitized apparel development. Using
modern 3D and 4D technologies and our traditional fit and pattern expertise, we help our clients design better fitting
clothes with fewer prototypes and less waste.”

When SARS-CoV-2 struck, the company
developed a quality label to easily iden-
tify non-medical, community masks that
meet legal and functional requirements.
The Hohenstein Quality Labels are inde-
pendent proof with a high level of cred-
ibility among buyers and consumers.

Anniversary
Among the celebrations, Hohenstein
plans to hold a mid-year press confer-
ence with regional and industry journal-
ists. "We are celebrating this anniversary
because we have succeeded in constantly
adapting to the market and use our applied research to anticipate developments. For this I would first like to thank
our employees, who, in keeping with the motto We live textiles, put their hearts and souls into their work. A very
special thanks also goes to our customers, some of whom have been placing their trust in us for decades," says Stefan
Mecheels, adding "I am convinced that we are positioned to continue our contribution in the future.

online www.tok-bg.org Source: www.hohenstein.com
9

1/2021

онлайн списание за ТЕКСТИЛ, ОБЛЕКЛО, КОЖИ И ТЕХНОЛОГИИ ISSN 2535-0447COTTON SECTOR WITH THE START-UP CULTURE
online magazine for TEXTILES, CLOTHING, LEATHER AND TECHNOLOGY ISSN 2535-0447
Seshadri Ramkumar, Professor, Texas Tech University, USA

ПАМУЧНИЯТ СЕКТОР СЪС СТАРТИРАЩА КУЛТУРА

Проф. Сешадри Рамкумар -Texas Tech Университет, САЩ

New Year is providing an optimistic picture for cotton and textiles sectors. Cotton Aides with the Start-up Culturе.
“Yarn prices have hiked about
30-40% in 3-months,” stated Vel-
murugan Shanmugam, general
manager of Aruppukottai, India-
based Jayalakshmi Textiles. Yarn
demand is high due to lack of
fabric stocks and hence proces-
sors are in urgent need of yarns,
added Velmurugan Shanmugam.

While cotton and textiles sectors are witnessing growing demand, it is also important to focus on new developments.
“In the mid to long term basis, development of value-added products is important,” stated Velmurugan Shanmugam.
Cotton and textile sectors have an opportunity to create start-ups to enhance demand and create jobs. The importance
of entrepreneurship and the need to infuse start-up culture was stressed by India’s Prime Minister, Honorable Naren-
dra Modi in his December 2020 “Maa Ki Baat, [Speech from the Heart]” address to the nation.
Jayalakshmi Textiles, with 70,000 ring spindles produces cotton yarns ranging from 60s Ne to 140s Ne, with an average
count of 67s Ne. Recently, I had the opportunity to collaborate with Jayalakshmi Textiles to develop cotton based non-
woven filters and oil absorbent wipes. The collaboration has led to the translation of my idea to useful cotton-based
value-added products.
An international collaboration involving this scribe has resulted in the creation of a start-up, WellGro United in Chennai,
India to market cotton industrial products. Cotton processing expertise of Jayalakshmi Textiles has played a crucial role
in transferring idea to marketplace.

WellGro United has been marketing products that enhance human lives and protect the environment. Recently, India’s
oil exploration company, Oil and Natural Gas Corporation, Ltd., has been using cotton-based oil absorbent to counter
oil spills in its Rajahmundry site on the banks of India’s second largest river, Godavari.

Jayalakshmi Textiles, which is a major cotton yarn spinner is taking little steps to develop novel cotton products which
have found inroads in the oil sector. Cotton-based mats are being exported to Nigeria and Poland for evaluation by
industrial sectors.
With the increasing trend in demand and prices for cotton and textile products, there is optimism among cotton textile
sectors to look for opportunities beyond commodity products.

Demand enhancement by developing functional and industrial products will be the next phase of the cotton textiles
sector.

TexSnips’ publisher wishes a healthy, safe and prosperous 2021! 10

online www.tok-bg.org

1/2021

АКТИВНО УЧЕНЕ В УНИВЕРСИТЕТСКОТО ОБРАЗОВАНИЕ
ПО МОДЕН ДИЗАЙН

Капка Манасиева - Варненски свободен университет „Черноризец Храбър“

ACTIVE LEARNING IN UNIVERSITY FASHION DESIGN EDUCATION

Kapka Manasieva - Varna Free University “Chernorizets Hrabar”
онлайн списание за ТЕКСТИЛ, ОБЛЕКЛО, КОЖИ И ТЕХНОЛОГИИ ISSN 2535-0447
online magazine for TEXTILES, CLOTHING, LEATHER AND TECHNOLOGY ISSN 2535-0447ABSTRACT:
The fashion world is highly dynamic and fashion students are eager to learn the most current and critical

issues in the industry. Nowadays, students that are used to having information just one click away are not
passive learners because they have very easy access to timely information related to the training and fashion
industries. More real-world activities are being incorporated to sustain their interest in learning. Active
learning is particularly important for university education as it helps to improve thinking and learning, such
as synthesized analysis and problem-solving skills.

In the light of the global trend for active learning in the university education and the dynamic nature of the
fashion industry, this article aims to present case studies of effective active learning and teaching in fashion
and present the main approaches in a synthesized and organized manner.

Keywords: fashion design, active learning, higher education

ВЪВЕДЕНИЕ

Светът на модата е силно динамичен, промените и студентите. В светлината на световната тенденция
критичните въпроси свързани с развитието на модната за активно учене в университетското образование
индустрия възникват непрекъснато. Студентите по мода, и динамичния характер на модната индустрия,
които са в авангарда на модата търсят не само тенденции, ефективността на преподаването се определя в
те са жадни и чувствителни по отношението на най- голяма степен от активната учебна среда, методите за
актуалните, локални и глобални проблеми на обществото. активно обучение и техниките за активно учене.
Вече не са пасивни обучаващи се, защото имат много лесен За реализиране на ефективен образователен процес
достъп до навременна информация свързана с обучението и резултатите -знанията, уменията и компетенциите
и модната индустрия. заложени в профилиращите дисциплини в учебния
За да се постигнат резултатите от обучението в центъра на план на бакалавърската програма по „Моден
което е студента, активното учене е основна стратегия в дизайн“във ВСУ „Черноризец Храбър“, студентите не
университетското образование по моден дизайн. само слушат, четат, пишат и обсъждат. Традиционно,
те решават проблеми на дизайна. В този смисъл,
ИЗЛОЖЕНИЕ активното учене като техника е традиционно заложена
 Концепцията активно учене в програмите на повечето дисциплини. Обучаемите
Поставянето на студентите в центъра на мислят, синтезират, анализират и оценяват в
образованието, включването на дейности свързани интерактивната среда на специализирани ателиета
с реални производствени или бизнес проблеми ги в университета, производствена среда и публично
прави много по ангажирани с обучението. Отдавна защитават своите проекти.
е ясно, че активното учене е особено важно за  Предизвикателствата
университетското образование, тъй като помага за Предизвикателствата, които трябва да се преодоляват
подобряване на мисленето и ученето. Чрез активно когато се цели утвърждаване и насърчаване на
участие на обучаемите в образователния процес се активното учене и преподаване, са свързани в голяма
придобиват умения за синтезиран анализ и решаване степен с промяна в университетското образование. Те
на проблеми, трупа се опит и а разбирането на не трябва да се разбират като отделни, а преплитащи
темите е много по-дълбоко. За преподавателите, се:
активното учене предоставя повече възможности
за комуникация, интерактивност и ангажираност на - Студентите трябва да станат активни партньори

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онлайн списание за ТЕКСТИЛ, ОБЛЕКЛО, КОЖИ И ТЕХНОЛОГИИ ISSN 2535-0447в обучението; Вторият метод е с фокус върху процеса на дизайна,
online magazine for TEXTILES, CLOTHING, LEATHER AND TECHNOLOGY ISSN 2535-0447- Необходими са иновативни учебни програми,който е интердисциплинарен и интерактивен - при
него, проектирането е експеримент, при който не само
методи за преподаване, както и учебната среда; се отразява текущо състояние, но и динамичността на
- Университетите трябва да приемат и разширят процеса.
 Примери на ефективно активно учене
концепцията за активно учене, като оценяват За да се поддържа интереса на обучаемите към
позицията на студентите като част от учебната ученето в специалност „Моден дизайн“ във ВСУ
общност. [1] „Черноризец Храбър“ се включват повече дейности,
Според доклада „Насърчаване на активното учене свързани с реалния свят. Студенти и преподаватели
в университетите“ на работна група сформирана са ангажирани в съвместен процес на проектиране
от Асоциацията на европейските университети и заедно утвърждават ефективен учебен процес и
[1], предизвикателствата пред промотирането на програма. Образно, може да се каже , че програмите
активното учене трудно се разбират поотделно. за обучение по дисциплини, квалификационната
Те, в различни условия могат да са с различна характеристика и учебния план по „Моден дизайн“ са
тежест и да изискват както системен подход, така и мрежата- обучение. Всички действия на преподаватели
последователност при решаване на проблемите. и ментори вплитат заданията и упражненията като
Преодоляването на тези предизвикателства изисква същевременно се поддържат целите на дизайн
водещите преподаватели да използват различни обучението. Тоест, чрез разнообразяване на
специфични за предмета техники или стратегии за проектите и дейностите свързващи програмата с
активно обучение и като резултат да се подобри реалната практика се добавят нови връзки в мрежата,
процеса на преподаване и обучение. и основата, която всеки студент получава напускайки
В модния дизайн, проектирането на различни университета става по- стабилна и гарантираща
продукти е свързано със знания и умения в различни адаптация на пазара на труда.
области на науката, интердисциплинарност, По-долу са дадени примери за проекти и
интерактивност и креативност. Креативността е тяхната връзка с процеса на проектиране и обучение.
ключова и „дава възможност на деца и възрастни за Те илюстрират резултати- дизайн проекти и дизайн
артистична изява и съпричастност“� към създаването процеси от активно учене и преподаване през
на продукти и услуги.[2] последната година.
Следвайки тенденциите в образованието и
специфичните цели заложени в характеристиките на  Проектиране на костюми: Студенти и
програмите по Моден дизайн в Европа и САЩ, следва преподаватели/ тютори от две специалности-
да се откроят новите акценти в активното учене: „Моден дизайн“ и „Информатика“ работят по
- студентите и преподавателите са партньори и съ- съвместен проект /Фиг.1/. Целта е представяне
създатели на знания; на възможностите на робот „Marty“, който
- създават се учебни общности- проекти, клубове, помага на деца в обучението по компютърни
лаборатории; науки, програмиране, дизайн и технологии. [3]
- препроектира се учебната среда за, и чрез активно
учене.

 Подходи в активното учене по моден дизайн

В образованието по дизайн, както и в образованието
по изкуства, различните форми на активно обучение
са стандартна процедура, натрупването на знания
и умения чрез практическа работа и практическо
обучение се комбинира с лекции и теоретични
изследвания. Подходите, които се прилагат в
обучението по моден дизайн включват различни
дейности– индивидуална и групова работа по задачи,
дискусии, групови проекти, семинари, решаване на
проблеми, свързани с анализиране, синтезиране и
оценяване. Същевременно се работи по усвояването Фиг. 1. Проектиране на костюми за робот

на двата основни метода в проектирането  Дизайн за игри: Целите на индивидуалните
на облекло. При традиционния /проучване, задачи и груповия проект са различно свързани
концепции, прототипиране/ студентите придобиват с компютърните науки, но решават конкретни
задължителните знания, умения и компетенции проблеми и развиват дизайнерското мислене.
фокусирани върху дизайна на финален продукт.
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онлайн списание за ТЕКСТИЛ, ОБЛЕКЛО, КОЖИ И ТЕХНОЛОГИИ ISSN 2535-0447Проектирането и стайлинга на роботот
online magazine for TEXTILES, CLOTHING, LEATHER AND TECHNOLOGY ISSN 2535-0447студентитепо моден дизайн, предоставя на
колегите им изучаващи информатика още по-
ангажиращо преживяване при практическото
представяне на техния програмен код /Фиг.2/.
[4]

Фиг. 4. Рециклиране и редизайн

с друг като формират сами групи и представят
съвместно резултати. Също, за да се стимулира
иновативното мислене на студентите се представя
тема- предизвикателство, която вдъхновява и
мотивира. Трябва да се подчертае, че студентите чрез
менторство и партньорство се включват в дейности,
Фиг. 2. Дизайн за игри които им дават опит и централна роля в процеса. Така,

 Интерактивен дизайн: Задачите темите и целите на самите дисциплини се разбират
са различни и изискват проектиране и по-задълбочено.

прототипиране на високотехнологични и ЗАКЛЮЧЕНИЕ
интерактивни облекла и представени на Натрупаният опит от последните над 30 години, през
модно ревю. Модните дизайнери проектират които се прилагат различни стратегии и техники за
дрехи, които са едновременно функционални, активно обучение, показва, че ролята на преподавателя
естетически и взаимодействат по нов начин с е от решаващо значение. Във висшето образование
публиката и потребителите /Фиг.3/. по моден дизайн активното учене определя в

голяма степен това обучаемите да станат активни,
мотивирани и отговорни по отношение на процесите.
Активното учене също зависи и от други фактори с
контекстуални, социални и психологически аспекти.
Следователно, остават като предизвикателство
важните въпроси: Как да се създават учебните
планове и програмите по дисциплините, за да бъдат
адекватни на нуждите на обучаваните и да постигат
целите на обучението по моден дизайн? И това при
условието, че университетското обучение трябва
да надгражда средното и професионалното, и
динамично променяща се среда. Може да се твърди,
че ключов фактор за ефективното активно учене е
Фиг. 3. Интерактивен дизайн комуникацията, включена в процеса на преподаване

 Рециклиране и редизайн: Проектите и учене, която развива увереност, съпричастност и
на студентите са изпълнени от текстил, постигане на добри академични резултати.

който вече е използван в часове по текстил и REFERENCES/ЛИТЕРАТУРА
живопис. /Фиг. 4/ Чрез редизайн на текстила и [1]  Christersson, Cecilia et al. (2019) Promoting active
дизайн на чанти, студентите и техните дизайни learning in universities. Available at: https://eua.eu/
участват в благотворително събитие на тема downloads/publications/eua%20tpg%20report%20
“Без остатък“ в полза на деца в неравностойно 5-%20promoting%20active%20learning%20in%20
положение. universities.pdf
[2] Kirova,D. Multifunctional child bed of modular type, IXth
International Scientific Conference Оn Architecture And
Примерите за активно учене, част от които са Civil Engineering - ARCIVE, 2019 13
визуализирани по-горе, позволяват на студентите [3] https://robotical.io/.
да се включват в реални казуси на практиката, да [4] https://www.birdbraintechnologies.com/finch/.
правят сами проучване, да взаимодействат един
online www.tok-bg.org

1/2021

онлайн списание за ТЕКСТИЛ, ОБЛЕКЛО, КОЖИ И ТЕХНОЛОГИИ ISSN 2535-04475th International Dyestuff, Pigments, Textile Chemicals, Digital
online magazine for TEXTILES, CLOTHING, LEATHER AND TECHNOLOGY ISSN 2535-0447Textile Printing, Dye and Technologies Exhibition

24 - 26 November 2022

Istanbul Expo Center

www.interdyeprinting.com

In cooperation with Organiser Supporter Media Partners

THIS FAIR IS ORGANIZED UNDER SUPERVISION OF TOBB (THE UNION OF CHAMBERS AND COMMODITY
EXCHANGES OF TURKEY) IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE LAW NO. 5174

online www.tok-bg.org 14

1/2021

DEVAN’S R-VITAL® MULTIVITAMIN TEXTILE TREATMENT MEETS
STANDARD 100 BY OEKO-TEX®

DEVAN’S R-VITAL® МУЛТИВИТАМИННА ОБРАБОТКА НА ТЕКСТИЛ
ОТГОВАРЯЩА НА СТАНДАРТ 100 ПРИ OEKO-TEX®
онлайн списание за ТЕКСТИЛ, ОБЛЕКЛО, КОЖИ И ТЕХНОЛОГИИ ISSN 2535-0447
online magazine for TEXTILES, CLOTHING, LEATHER AND TECHNOLOGY ISSN 2535-0447Devan’s latest technology, R-Vital Multivitamin, meets the requirements of the Standard 100 by Oeko-tex® (Class II).
The technology is part of Devan’s R-Vital® range of microencapsulated active ingredients and consists of vitamin C,
vitamin E and ginger.

Preventative health is top of mind and we feel more
concerned than usual about staying strong and
healthy. The Covid-19 pandemic has also caused
people to think about how they can become more
resilient and lead a healthy lifestyle.
A balanced immune system is crucial and depends
on how healthy we are, both mentally and physical-
ly. People seek out products to boost that immune
system. Providing products and services which allow
consumers to become healthier is key. A survey from
McKinsey & Company revealed that 75% of respond-
ents in China want to eat more healthily after the
crisis.
The new multivitamin blend is part of the R-Vital®
range. R-Vital® is a fabric treatment that enables textile manufacturers to boost their textiles with a patented range of
microencapsulated active ingredients. The technology was first launched at Heimtextil in 2018 with active ingredients
including Q10, Thyme oil, Aloe Vera, and more. The fabric treatment is based on microencapsulation. Active ingredi-
ents are encapsulated and applied to the fabric. The treated textiles touch our skin and the friction causes the micro-
capsules to break. Then, the active ingredients are absorbed by our skin.
Since its launch in 2018, Devan has continuously
added new ingredients such as CBD, Avocado and
Echinacea. The latest blend contains vitamin C, vi-
tamin E and ginger and is designed for immunity-
boosting properties. Recently, the treatment has
been found suitable for Standard 100 by Oeko-tex®.
With vaccination campaigns still ongoing, Devan’s
treatment might be a valuable technology for those
seeking to give that little extra support to their im-
mune system in the meantime.

About Devan
Devan Chemicals is a worldwide developer of speciality chemicals for textiles, headquartered in Belgium and with
offices in the UK, Portugal and the USA. The company was founded in 1977 and has a strong focus on innovation,
research & development and sustainability. Devan is a leading innovator in the fields of protection (flame
retardants), performance (odour control & stain release), thermoregulation (PCM’s and cooling technologies such
as Moov&Cool®), health & wellness (aromatherapy, R-Vital® and allergen control) and fibres and yarns (functional
masterbatch technologies).

online www.tok-bg.org Source and Images: www.devan.net
15

1/2021

THE STOLL BRAND DEMONSTRATES IN CHINA A COMPLETE SUCCESS
МАРКАТА STOLL - ДЕМОНСТРИРА В КИТАЙ С ПЪЛЕН УСПЕХ

STOLL exhibitor premiere at KARL MAYER In-house Show in China a complete success
The first presentation of the STOLL brand during an in-house KARL MAYER product show ended in great success on
December 19 after a three-day run. In China, the current infection development allows face-to-face events again.
Around 380 visitors from 170 companies took advantage of the opportunity to meet on site. Most of them travelled to
KARL MAYER (CHINA) in Changzhou from the Great Shanghai area, and a few others came from the north of China, de-
spite the exceptionally cold winter weather. Many of the guests came with the question of how the STOLL flat knitting
machine business will continue after the acquisition by KARL MAYER, and left with increased confidence. „The first im-
pression was great. Our high-tech production in Changzhou with the group-wide high quality standards, the excellent
operational management, the just established STOLL development, our expertise, all this left a very good impression
on our customers," says Liu Xuran, Chief of Sales & Product of the STOLL Business Unit.
онлайн списание за ТЕКСТИЛ, ОБЛЕКЛО, КОЖИ И ТЕХНОЛОГИИ ISSN 2535-0447
online magazine for TEXTILES, CLOTHING, LEATHER AND TECHNOLOGY ISSN 2535-0447
The STOLL brand will continue to operate independently as part of KARL MAYER with the same contacts but with the
support of the strong group of companies. It will guarantee customers successful business more than ever before.
An exclusive selection of the innovations which will continue to ensure full order books in the flat knitting sector was
on show in Changzhou. All the machines exhibited impressed with their excellent price/performance ratio and vari-
ous automation solutions. They were the subject of numerous concrete investment inquiries and project discussions.
Area Sales Manager Thomas Streicher and Simon Ma from regional partner Chemtax expressed their satisfaction with
the feedback and the sales successes. „Some customers came twice to check the performance of the machines“, says
Thomas Streicher.
online www.tok-bg.org 16

1/2021

Sophisticated automation solutions
A highlight of the machine show in Changzhou was the topic of knit & wear®. In the seamless knitting of sweaters,
eliminating almost all downstream finishing processes, STOLL is setting standards in terms of patterning possibili-
ties and price/performance, as demonstrated by the ADF 830-24 ki W knit & wear® and CMS 830 ki knit & wear®.
The ADF model is designed for the high-level market segment and implements innovative fashion patterns with in-
verse plating and Intarsia among other things, which cannot be easily copied. With its production versatility and flex-
ibility, the machine particularly impressed the brand manufacturers from the high-end segment in Changzhou. The
CMS-version manufactures for the basic-level volume market and scores with an extremely good price/performance
ratio. New to the in-house show was gauge E 10.2. The CMS 830 ki knit & wear® with the new gauge will allow cus-
tomers to participate in the lucrative but highly competitive market of fine knit & and wear articles in the future.
As a further contribution to automation, an ADF machine with a knitrobotic®-kit was presented for the first time in
Asia. The robotic functions make it possible to integrate materials and parts into the knitted product without manual
intervention. As one example, an everyday mask was produced during the in-house show, with the nose bracket in-
serted fully automatically. The performance show inspired numerous new application ideas.
Solutions for creatives
An innovation for the creative process was presented with the new Connective Pattern Software (STOLL-CPS®). The
solution combines a full-featured, advanced programming system with an easy-to-learn user interface and significantly
expands knitting possibilities. Features include an authentic fabric view, many smart tools and open interfaces that
allow CPS to be perfectly embedded in upcoming digital workflows. Among the most important advantages of STOLL-
CPS® is the reduction of time-to-market. With an integrated grading system, additional sizes or size approaches can
be created quickly and changes can be made across all sizes and/or patterns in a project in the shortest possible time.
As an inspiration for designers and product developers, the current STOLL collection "FASTER from Concept to Store"
showed which creations can be realized with knitelligence® software solutions and how complex designer pieces can
be transformed into commercially producible goods for the mass market through small changes. The extravagant fash-
ion items were a real crowd puller.

Source: www.karlmayer.com
онлайн списание за ТЕКСТИЛ, ОБЛЕКЛО, КОЖИ И ТЕХНОЛОГИИ ISSN 2535-0447
online magazine for TEXTILES, CLOTHING, LEATHER AND TECHNOLOGY ISSN 2535-0447

online www.tok-bg.org 17

1/2021

онлайн списание за ТЕКСТИЛ, ОБЛЕКЛО, КОЖИ И ТЕХНОЛОГИИ ISSN 2535-0447ShanghaiTex 2021: 20th International Exhibition on Textile Industry
online magazine for TEXTILES, CLOTHING, LEATHER AND TECHNOLOGY ISSN 2535-0447
ShanghaiTex 2021: 20-то Международно изложение за Текстилна
индустрия

ShanghaiTex 2021 will be held at Shanghai New International Expo Center, Pudong, Shanghai, PR China, on November
23-26, 2021.

Focuses on Post-Covid High-Growth Sectors.

The pandemic has driven the demand for virus-proof products such as masks and protective clothing. Many
international textile and apparel brands have incorporated antibacterial and functional concepts into their products.
ShanghaiTex2021 will explore new business opportunities for the textile industry to upgrade and optimize their
products with showcases and concurrent activities.

Healthcare, Sports, and Antibacterial: The pandemic has undoubtedly increased the market awareness on wellness
and safety. High growth in antibacterial, antiviral, or sports-related textile technologies is anticipated.

Sustainability: Sustainability has become a megatrend in the industry. With the growing eco-consciousness among
consumers after various disasters, it’s high time to rethink eco-lifestyles through textile innovation.

Artificial Intelligence: AI has become an emerging tool to reduce labor costs and attain efficiency in production. The
social activities restrictions by COVID-19 has further proved the importance of AI remote management and automated
production.

Optimizing O2O Marketing via
Comprehensive Database

Online Exhibition Services for
ShanghaiTex Exhibitors:  In
response to the “contact-free”
trend in this e-commerce era,
ShanghaiTex will invite all
the confirmed exhibitors to
participate in a complementary
Online Exhibition. International
buyers can view the products and send instant inquiries to exhibitors on a 24/7 basis.

Join Forces with “Textech Galaxy”- The Online + Offline Platform, to Create an Interacting Industry Community:  In
partnership with the new textile technology platform, Textech Galaxy, a series of virtual + offline events and promotion
services are being hosted. The platform allows exhibitors to promote their business via various channels.

Nine Thematic Zones at SNIEC in Pudong, Shanghai. Exploring Cutting Edge Textile Technology and Lifestyle Applications

A broad spectrum of technology, machinery, and services in the industry will be showcased, fulfilling all industry
players’ interests and needs:

• Nonwovens & Techtextile Zone (NEW!)
• Textech Galaxy / Textech Startup Planet (NEW!)
• Spinning, Man-made Fibre & Techtextile Machinery Zone
• Weaving Machinery Zone
• Spare Parts and Accessories for Textile Machinery Zone
• Knitting & Hosiery Machinery Zone
• Printing, Dyeing & Finishing Machinery Zone
• Digital Printing Machinery Zone
• Dyestuff & Textile Chemicals Zone

 “ShanghaiTex” is sponsored by Orient International (Holding) Co., Ltd., China Council for the Promotion of International
Trade Shanghai Sub-council and China Chamber of International Commerce Shanghai Chamber of Commerce. And it
is organized by Shanghai Textile Technology Service & Exhibition Co., Ltd., Shanghai International Exhibition Co., Ltd
and Adsale Exhibition Service Ltd.

Source: www.ShanghaiTex.cn

online www.tok-bg.org 18

1/2021

HOLOGENIX AND KELHEIM FIBRES LAUNCH CELLIANT VISCOSE
HOLOGENIX И KELHEIM FIBRES ПУСКАТ ЦЕЛИАНТНА ВИСКОЗА

HOLOGENIX, CREATORS OF CELLIANT, AND KELHEIM FIBRES, THE WORLD’S LEADING MANUFACTURER OF VISCOSE
SPECIALTY FIBERS, LAUNCH CELLIANT VISCOSE
онлайн списание за ТЕКСТИЛ, ОБЛЕКЛО, КОЖИ И ТЕХНОЛОГИИ ISSN 2535-0447
online magazine for TEXTILES, CLOTHING, LEATHER AND TECHNOLOGY ISSN 2535-0447
» First In-Fiber Infrared Sustainable Solution on the Market Offers Wearability, Longevity, Unique Applications
and Affordability »

Hologenix, creators of Celliant®, infrared responsive technology, and Kelheim Fibres, the world-leading manufacturer
of viscose specialty fibers, have partnered to launch Celliant Viscose at ISPO Munich 2021. Celliant Viscose is a finalist
in Best Products by ISPO and will be showcased in the Fibers & Insulations Category for ISPO Textrends, where realistic
views and 3-D simulations will be available for each material.
The introduction of nature-based Celliant Viscose will be the first in-fiber infrared sustainable solution on the market
and meets a consumer demand for more environmentally friendly textiles. An alternative to synthetic fibers and
extremely versatile, Celliant Viscose blends beautifully with cotton, micromodal, lyocell, wool varieties including
cashmere. It also has many applications across industries as it is ideal for performance wear, luxury loungewear, casual
wear and bedding.
Celliant Viscose features natural, ethically sourced minerals embedded into plant-based fibers to create infrared

products that capture and convert
body heat into infrared, increasing
local circulation and improved cellular
oxygenation. This results in stronger
performance, faster recovery and
better sleep.

“We are confident the exciting

introduction of Celliant Viscose will

resonate strongly with brands as
well as the end consumer,” said Seth
Casden, Hologenix Co-Founder and
CEO. “It is a sustainable infrared

solution that can be integrated into

everything from cotton to luxury

wools and cashmere and offers

myriad applications.” 19

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онлайн списание за ТЕКСТИЛ, ОБЛЕКЛО, КОЖИ И ТЕХНОЛОГИИ ISSN 2535-0447Celliant Viscose provides all the benefits of being a viscose fiber — lightweight, soft, highly breathable, excellent
online magazine for TEXTILES, CLOTHING, LEATHER AND TECHNOLOGY ISSN 2535-0447moisture management — as well as fiber enhancements from Celliant infrared technology. Celliant’s proprietary blend
of natural minerals allows textiles to capture and convert body heat into full-spectrum infrared energy, resulting in
stronger performance, faster recovery and better sleep. In addition, Celliant is durable and will not wash out, lasting
the useful life of the product it powers.

“Sustainable products for a healthy lifestyle and wellbeing — that’s what both Hologenix and Kelheim Fibres stand for.
This shared vision of the future is the sound basis for our seamless cooperation,” said Dr. Marina Crnoja-Cosic, Head of
New Business Development and Member of the Board at Kelheim Fibres. “Combining our technological expertise and
our innovative spirit, we have opened the way for an entirely new range of possible applications.”
An Affordable, Long-lasting Solution with Diverse Applications
As opposed to other IR viscose products which are coatings based, Celliant Viscose’s in-fiber solution increases
wearability and longevity with a soft feel, durability from washing and longer life. The combination of Kelheim’s
distinctive technology and the Celliant additives creates this unique fiber that provides full functionality without the
need for any additional processing step — a new standard in the field of sustainable IR viscose fibers. This single
processing also makes Celliant Viscose more cost-effective and time-efficient than coatings.
In addition, Kelheim’s flexible technology allows targeted interventions in the viscose fiber process. By modifying the
fiber’s dimensions or cross sections or by incorporating additives into the fiber matrix, Kelheim can precisely define the
fiber’s properties according to the specific needs of the end product.
Highly Sustainable
Celliant Viscose is a plant and mineral-based solution for brands seeking an alternative to synthetic fibers.
It contains natural raw materials that are from the earth and can return safely to the earth.
Nature-based Celliant Viscose is certified by FSC® or PEFC™, which guarantees the origin in sustainably managed
plantations, and is part of the CanopyStyle initiative to protect ancient and endangered forests. The production
of Celliant Viscose takes place exclusively at the Kelheim facilities in Germany, complying with the country’s strict
environmental laws and guaranteeing an overall eco-friendly product.
Backed by Science
Celliant is rigorously tested by a Science Advisory Board composed of experts in the fields of physics, biology, chemistry
and medicine. The Science Advisory Board has overseen 10 clinical, technical and physical trials, and seven published
studies that demonstrate Celliant’s effectiveness and the benefits of infrared energy.

About Hologenix
Hologenix, headquartered in Pacific Palisades, California, is a materials science innovation company producing products
that energize all aspects of life. Its flagship product, Celliant, is an infrared responsive textile that provides a myriad of
wellness benefits and is an ingredient in world-class brands across multiple industries. www.celliant.com

About Kelheim Fibres
Kelheim Fibres GmbH is the world’s leading manufacturer of viscose speciality fibres. Innovative products, flexible
technologies and an exceptional focus on sustainability form the foundation of the company’s success. Our speciality fibres
are used in most diverse applications from fashion, hygiene and medical products to nonwovens and speciality papers.
All our fibres are made from 100% wood pulp from PEFCTM or FSC© certified sources. They are fully biodegradable and
offer an environmentally sound alternative to petroleum-based materials in a broad range of different end products –
while maintaining or even enhancing the functional performance of the product. The production takes place exclusively
in Germany and complies with the strict German environmental legislation. Our closed-loop philosophy and an energy-
efficient way to operate our plants help to save valuable resources. Kelheim Fibres is the first viscose manufacturer
worldwide with an EMAS-validated environmental management system.

About more Celliant Viscose, visit at: www.celliant.com/celliant-viscose/
Source: www.kelheim-fibres.com

online www.tok-bg.org 20

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онлайн списание за ТЕКСТИЛ, ОБЛЕКЛО, КОЖИ И ТЕХНОЛОГИИ ISSN 2535-0447COMPLEX ASSESSMENT OF TERRY FABRICS FUNGI CONTAMINATION USING
online magazine for TEXTILES, CLOTHING, LEATHER AND TECHNOLOGY ISSN 2535-0447SPECTRAL CHARACTERISTICS

Elsayed A. Elnashar - Faculty of Specific Education, Kaferelsheikh University, Egypt, El -
Geish Street, 33516 Kaferelsheikh City, Egypt, e-mail: [email protected];

Danijela Paunović - The College of Textile-Design, Technology and Management, Belgrade,
Serbia, e-mail: [email protected];

Stanka Baycheva -Faculty of Technics and Technologies, Trakia University, Bulgaria, 38
Graf Ignatiev str., 8602 Yambol, Bulgaria, e-mail: [email protected]; Zlatin Zlatev - Faculty
of Technics and Technologies, Trakia University, Bulgaria, 38 Graf Ignatiev str., 8602 Yam-

bol, Bulgaria, e-mail: [email protected]

КОМПЛЕКСНА ОЦЕНКА НА ХАВЛИЕНИ ТЪКАНИ, ЗАРАЗЕНИ С ПЛЕСЕН ЧРЕЗ
ИЗПОЛЗВАНЕ НА СПЕКТРАЛНИ ХАРАКТЕРИСТИКИ

Елсайед А. Елнашар - Кафрейшейх университет, Египет, e-mail: [email protected];
Даниела Паунович - Колеж по текстилен дизайн, технологии и мениджмънт,
Белград, Сърбия, e-mail: [email protected];

Станка Байчева - Тракийски университет, факултет “Техника и Технологии“,
e-mail: [email protected]; Златин Златев - Тракийски университет, факултет

“Техника и Технологии“, e-mail: [email protected]

ABSTRACT:
The work in this article is aimed at evaluation the possibility of applying spectral characteristics in the visible
region of the spectrum for classification of object areas with terry fabrics and fungi. Samples of terry fabrics
including high, medium and low cotton, viscose and polyester content are used. Latent variables, linear vari-
ants of principal components and those with non-linear kernel were used to reduce the amount of data from
spectral characteristics. The K-Nearest Neighbor method, linear and non-linear discriminant analysis, were
used for classification. An analysis of the general classification error was made. The results obtained show
that using a non-linear discriminant classifier with kernel variant of principal components, low values ​o​ f the
general classification error (0-6%) are obtained, compared to the other methods used.

Keywords: Terry fabrics, mold infestation, spectral analysis, data reduction, classification
РЕЗЮМЕ

Работата, представена в тази статия е насочена към оценка на възможността за приложение на спектрални
характеристики, във видимата област на спектъра при класификация на обектни области с хавлиени тъкани и
плесен. Използвани са проби от хавлиени съкани, включващи в състава си високо, средно и ниско съдържание
на памук, вискоза и полиестер. За редуциране обема от данни на спектралните характеристики са използвани
латентни променливи, линеен вариант на главни компоненти и такива с нелинеен кернел. За класификация
са използвани методите К-най-близки съседи, линеен и нелинеен дискриминантен анализ. Направен е
анализ на общата грешка на класификация. Получените резултати показват, че при използване на нелинеен
дискриминантен класификатор с кернел вариант на главни компоненти, се получават ниски стойности на
общата грешка на класификация (0-6%), в сравнение с останалите използвани методи.

Ключови думи: Хавлиени тъкани, заразяване с плесен, спектрален анализ, редуциране обема от данни,
класификация

1.Introduction

The exact nature of the damage of terry fabrics depends on the fungus as Aspergillus’s fungus enzymes structure of the
fiber and the local conditions, such as temperature and presence of other agents such as oxygen. Terry fabrics may also

online www.tok-bg.org 21

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be damaged by excessive heat, for example in fires or ovens. Thus it is inadvisable to determine the influence of the in-
dividual parameters on the fabric structure and the products use properties on the basis of the presented tests alone.
In the recent years for the purposes of recognition and the definition of the degree of infection of the fabrics are used
image analysis and spectral techniques.
The aim of the work is to assess the possibility of using of image processing and analysis techniques for recognition and
classification of the infection of terry fabrics made by different textile materials.
2.Material and methods
tSluhasem’snp:fulwenegppureusptaaasrlltahotiefoitrnh.aebCmizlaiitnpye1tklo.’dswisdetoitlxleuadngdHaer2rOinl.acTbleuordrrayinttoger:syt3ic0noggnosduficttierooxnktisele,th2megagNtreaorNwiaOtlsh3,iso1pfgoAHssspCiebl,rle0gi,tl5loumbsg’isoSflouOgn4i,gcu0as,l0de1avgmaFlauegaSetOeb4d,yi2An0sfgpaecarugglatilry-,
of science, Tanta university, Egypt.
The concentration of growth the Aspergillus’s fungus in the solution during the modification has been determined by
inflicted by fungus as Aspergillus’s fungus by growth on the media as 1ml for 10cml of the media, Inhibition activity was
determinate by diffusion method on agar plate. The antimicrobial efficacy of this bioactive system was examined on an
agar plate seeded with indicator microorganisms. Samples were tested after 7 days (168 hours) incubation at 25oC, the
presence or absence visible colonies on the agar surface directly above the fibrous textile material was recorded. After
visually inspecting agar surface inhibition zone (Aspergillus’s fungus) was determinate. The in vitro anti-biological dam-
age effect of each textile fibrous materials were examined in physiological solution. Aspergillus’s fungus measured by
standard method of decimal qualify in sterile physiological solution and the materials of fiber as polyester and blended
were of test on agar. After 7days of incubation at 25oC in micro conditions, Aspergillus’s fungus count was determinate.
Contaminated terry fabrics with different cotton content are presented on Figure 1. The properties of used fabrics with
cotton content are included in Table 1.
онлайн списание за ТЕКСТИЛ, ОБЛЕКЛО, КОЖИ И ТЕХНОЛОГИИ ISSN 2535-0447
online magazine for TEXTILES, CLOTHING, LEATHER AND TECHNOLOGY ISSN 2535-0447a) Highb) Mediumc) Low cot-
cotton cotton ton con-
content content tent

Figure 1. Terry fabric with cotton

Table 1. Terry fabrics properties with different cotton content

Weft &loop status Thickness per Weight Wiks-up Pile density Pile length Air flow
CHoigthton content mm cm/m2 1,10 Ft3/ cm2
MLoewdium 5,00 31,30 2,00 37,50 00,,7483
33,,2905 1274,,0692 12,,7003 3302,,5000 31,30
3312,,0000

Contaminated terry fabrics with different viscose content are presented on Figure 2. The properties of used fabrics
with viscose content are included in Table 2.

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онлайн списание за ТЕКСТИЛ, ОБЛЕКЛО, КОЖИ И ТЕХНОЛОГИИ ISSN 2535-0447a) Highb) Mediumc) Low
online magazine for TEXTILES, CLOTHING, LEATHER AND TECHNOLOGY ISSN 2535-0447viscoseviscoseviscose
content content content

Figure 2. Terry fabric with viscose

Table 2. Terry fabrics properties with different viscose content

Weft &loop status Thickness Weight Wiks-up Pile density Pile length Air flow
MVHiiesgdchiousme content per mm cm/m2 Ft3/ cm2
Low 34,,9955
3,00 3215,,0733 32,,8005 3372,,5500 01,,1780 3301,,2900
17,50 3,26 32,50 0,43 31,90

Contaminated terry fabrics with different polyester content are presented on Figure 3.

a) High b) Medium c) Low
polyes- polyester polyes-
ter con- content ter con-
tent tent

Figure 3. Terry fabric with polyester

Table 3. Terry fabrics properties with different polyester content

Weft &loop status Thickness Weight Wiks-up Pile density Pile length Air flow
PHoiglhyester content per mm cm/m2 1,10 Ft3/ cm2
LMoewdium 5,60 29,85 3,66 37,50 00,,4783
34,,5650 1235,,2805 33,,7555 3320,,0500 31,40
3311,,0900

Obtaining spectral characteristics is done by converting the values from the LMS model into reflection spectra
in the VIS region, in the range 390-730nm, by mathematical dependencies, where conversion is possible in both direc-
tions of equality [4]. The conversion functions used are for observer 2o and illumination D65. Conversion matrices are
available in the [9] for the VIS spectral region (380-780nm).
Three data reduction methods are used: latent variables (LV); principal components analysis (PCA); kernel vari-
ant of principal components analysis (kPCA). Examples of these methods are presented on Figure 4.

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онлайн списание за ТЕКСТИЛ, ОБЛЕКЛО, КОЖИ И ТЕХНОЛОГИИ ISSN 2535-0447a) LV b) PCA c) kPCA
online magazine for TEXTILES, CLOTHING, LEATHER AND TECHNOLOGY ISSN 2535-0447
Figure 4. Examples of data reduction methods used
Three classifiers are used: K-Nearest Neighbors (kNN); Linear Discriminant analysis (LDA); Quadratic Discriminant Anal-
ysis (QDA). Examples of their work are presented on Figure 5.

a) KNN b) LDA c) QDA

Figure 5. Examples of classifiers used

The evaluation of the performance of the classifiers used is based on a general classification error, which is
described by the formula:

(1)

wk=h1e..r.eny–ik is the number of class i samples classified by classifier in class k; yii - number of correctly recognized samples;
number of incorrectly assigned to a class i relative to the total number of samples; n – number of classes.

All data is processed at level of significance α=0,05.

3.Results and discussion

Spectral characteristics of the studied terry fabrics with different additives are presented on Figure 6. In all of the cases
there is good visual separation between fabrics and mold. There are overlaps in all cases between different levels of
addition of cotton, viscose and polyester.

a) With cotton b) With viscose c) With polyester

Figure 6. Spectral characteristics of terry fabrics

Tables 4, 5 and 6 present the results from classification with three classifiers using color PC’s and LV’s of spectral charac-
teristics of all samples. As mentioned above the classification error is above 5% for all features of the samples which are
with natural fabrics. The highest error values are at samples with low levels of cotton, viscose and polyester addition.
The better way to separate the investigated classes is using full spectra of image. The data of spectral characteristics of
the areas with fabric and areas with mold are reduced by PC’s and LV’s. Good separation of the two classes, represent-
ed by spectral characteristics with their PC’s and LV’s is obtained using the kernel variant of principal components (PC).
The results show that for these complex images is better to use full spectra of the image instead color components of
the object areas of fabrics and mold.
Table 4. Classification results for terry fabrics with different cotton content

HMCCLDooliaegawttdshatoisurniemfidceuor cnttieonnt Method LV kNN kPCA LV LDA kPCA LV PCA kPCA
0% 0% 1% 0%
PCA 00%% PCA 00%% 1% 14% 0%
500%% 46% 181%% 59% 191%% 2224%% 00%%
4421%% 4465%%

Table 5. Classification results for terry fabrics with different viscose content

VCDHMLoialiesagwtdcsahiosursiemfeideucroctniotennMt ethod kNN LDA

LV PCA kPCA LV PCA kPCA LV PCA kPCA
0% 49% 0% 0% 11% 0%
4494%% 0% 61% 0% 13%% 2253%% 06%%
5500%% 500%% 14%% 2399%% 110%%

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онлайн списание за ТЕКСТИЛ, ОБЛЕКЛО, КОЖИ И ТЕХНОЛОГИИ ISSN 2535-0447Table 6. Classification results for terry fabrics with different cotton content
online magazine for TEXTILES, CLOTHING, LEATHER AND TECHNOLOGY ISSN 2535-0447
CHPDLMooialeagwltdysahiesursiemftideeurr cctoionnteMntethod LV kNN kPCA LV LDA kPCA LV PCA kPCA
15%% 00%% 13%% 01%% 12%% 2235%% 00%%
PCA 0% PCA 0% 35% 0%
50% 4485%% 15% 4579%% 13%
46% 46%

4.Conclusion

The present study has shown the possibility of using full spectra of image for the non-destructive evaluation of the
infecting textile fabrics with mold. Also different parts of the measured product consist areas with different character-
istics which are not fully covered by standard measurement methods.

The results show that the study of the entire area of terry fabrics and mold with a reduced number of data from spec-
tral characteristics provide information on changes in the product without the need to know in advance their physico-
chemical properties.
The results show that for these complex images it is better to use full spectrum data of the object regions of the textile
fabrics and the mold.

The study shows the potential of using full spectra of the image for determination of the comfort properties of terry
fabrics that will reveal new approaches regarding the subject, Biological damage which may also be inflicted by fungus
as Aspergillus’s fungus and insects, which bite the fiber into terry fabrics and digest the fiber pieces internally. Microor-
ganisms, such as some forms of bacteria and fungi, can inject enzymes onto the fiber to break it down.
Acknowledgements

This work is partially supported by project 2.OUP/07.2020 “Construction of infrastructure for data processing and
analysis from contactless sensors with application of machine learning” of Faculty of technics and technologies, Yam-
bol, Bulgaria.
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[4] Glassner, A. S. (1989) How to derive a spectrum from an RGB triplet. IEEE Computer Graphics and Applications 9, 4
(July 1989), pp.95-99.
[5] Ilieva J., Fashion design using decorative bands based on the golden and Fibonacci forms. ARTTE, Vol.3, No.3, 2015,
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Textilă, vol. 68, No. 5, pp.366-369.
[7] Kazlacheva Z., J. Ilieva, M. Zhekova, P. Dineva, Fashion design on the base of connection between colors and lines,
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[8] Mladenov, M., St. Penchev, M. Dejanov (2015) Complex assessment of food products quality using analysis of visual
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[9] Smits, B. (2000) An RGB to Spectrum Conversion for Reflectances, University of Utah, January 21, 2000, pp.1-10.

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онлайн списание за ТЕКСТИЛ, ОБЛЕКЛО, КОЖИ И ТЕХНОЛОГИИ ISSN 2535-0447 ISPO TEXTRENDS FALL/WINTER 22/23
online magazine for TEXTILES, CLOTHING, LEATHER AND TECHNOLOGY ISSN 2535-0447ISPO TEXTRENDS ЕСЕН/ЗИМА 22/23

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онлайн списание за ТЕКСТИЛ, ОБЛЕКЛО, КОЖИ И ТЕХНОЛОГИИ ISSN 2535-0447  
online magazine for TEXTILES, CLOTHING, LEATHER AND TECHNOLOGY ISSN 2535-0447Naturals go it alone 
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online www.tok-bg.org  Image credit: ©Messe München
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