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ооннллааййнн ССППИИССААННИИЕЕ

online ЗА ТЕКСТИЛЛ,, ООББЛЛЕЕККЛЛOO,, ККOOЖЖИИ
tok-bg.org И ТЕЕХХННOOЛЛООГГИИИИ

ISSN 2535-0447

4/2021

4/2021

СЪДЪРЖАНИЕ/CONTENS

4/2021
онлайн списание за ТЕКСТИЛ, ОБЛЕКЛО, КОЖИ И ТЕХНОЛОГИИ ISSN 2535-0447
online magazine for TEXTILES, CLOTHING, LEATHER AND TECHNOLOGY ISSN 2535-0447 РЕДАКТОРСКИ ЕКИП: КОЖЕНОТО ЯКЕ: ТЕНДЕНЦИЯ ОТВЪД БУНТАРСТВОТО
проф. Елсайед Елнашар, Египет Кристина Савова..................................................................101
Проф. д-р инж. Йoван Степанович, Сърбия THE LEATHER JACKET: BEYOND REBELLION FASHION TREND-
Проф. д-р инж. Душан Трайкович, Сърбия Christina Savova.....................................................................101
Проф. д-р инж. Снежана Уросевич, Сърбия THE LATEST STRETCH TECHNOLOGY ADVANCEMENT
Проф. д-р инж. Горан Дембоски, Република Северна IN THE APPAREL MARKET-ADJUSTEC STRETCH COLLAR..108
Македония ПОСЛЕДНО РАЗВИТИЕ В СТРЕЧ ТЕХНОЛОГИЯТА НА
Проф. д-р Сешадри Рамкумар, САЩ ПАЗАРА ЗА ОБЛЕКЛО-ADJUSTEC СТРЕЧ ЯКА..................108
Проф. д-р Мария Блажева, България LEAP - THE NEW SUSTAINABLE LEATHER ALTERNATIVE
Проф. Веселин Ненков, България MADE FROM LEFTOVER APPLES.........................................109
Доц. д-р инж. Ненад Чиркович, Сърбия LEAP - НОВA УСТОЙЧИВA АЛТЕРНАТИВА НА КОЖА,
Доц. д-р инж. Капка Манасиева, България НАПРАВЕНА ОТ ЯБЪЛКОВИ ОСТАТЪЦИ...........................109
Доц. д-р инж. Златин Златев, България THE 20th INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION ON TEXTILE INDUS-
Гл. ас. д-р инж. Соня Въчинска, България TRY (SHANGHAITEX 2021)...................................................110
Доц. д-р Кристина Савова, България 20-ТО МЕЖДУНАРОДНО ИЗЛОЖЕНИЕ ЗА
Д-р инж. Даниел Ангелов, България ТЕКСТИЛНА ИНДУСТРИЯ (SHANGHAITEX 2021).................110
Инж. Наташа Сивевска, Република Северна Македония ECONOMIC DEVELOPMENT, GOVERNANCE, AND
ГРАФИЧЕН ДИЗАЙН: Стефка Нейкова ENTERPRISE GROWTH (EDGE) PROJECT IMPROVING THE
COMPETITIVENESS OF THE TEXTILE/APPAREL INDUSTRY
EDITORIAL BOARD: THROUGH DIGITALIZATION -“The textile industry in the
Prof. Elsayed Elnashar Ph.D., Egypt countries of the Western Balkan Region at the dawn of the
Prof. Jovan Stepanovich Ph.D., Serbia fourth industrial revolution” - Blagoja Milosevski.................112
Prof. Dušan Trajakoviċ Ph.D., Serbia ECONOMIC DEVELOPMENT, GOVERNANCE, AND ENTER-
Prof. Snežana Uroševiċ Ph.D., Serbia PRISE GROWTH (EDGE) PROJECT -“Improving the competitive-
Prof. Goran Dembovski Ph.D., Republic of North Macedonia ness of the textile and apparel industry through digitalization”
Prof. Seshadri Ramkumar Ph.D., USA -Severinova Biljana.................................................................123
Prof. Maria Blajeva Ph.D., Bulgaria Asia Wipes Summit 2021.......................................................127
Prof. Veselin Nenkov Ph.D., Bulgaria MICAM Milano - THE INTERNATIONAL FOOTWEAR SHOW....129
Assos. Prof. Nenad Ćirkoviċ Ph.D., Serbia MICAM Milano- МЕЖДУНАРОДНО ШОУ ЗА ОБУВКИ .........129
Assos. Prof. Kapka Manasieva Ph.D., Bulgaria INNOVATIVE PRODUCT FROM MONTEIRO RIBAS.............130
Assos. Prof. eng. Zlatin Zlatev Ph.D., Bulgaria ИНОВАТИВЕН ПРОДУКТ ОТ MONTEIRO RIBAS................130
Assos. Prof. eng. Sonia Vachinska Ph.D., Bulgaria B.I.G. YARNS UNVEILS ColorMind FOR CARPETS................132
Assos. Prof. Kristina Savova Ph.D., Bulgaria B.I.G. YARNS ПРЕДСТАВЯ ColorMind ЗА КИЛИМИ............132
Eng. Daniel Angelov Ph.D., Bulgaria HOHENSTEIN: ORGANIC COTTON.....................................134
Eng. Natasha Sivevska, Republic of North Macedonia HOHENSTEIN: ОРГАНИЧЕН ПАМУК..................................134
STAHL LAUNCHES NUVERA® BREAKTHROUGH RENEWABLE
GRAPHIC DESING: Stefka Neykova CARBON POLYURETHANES RANGE...................................135
STAHL ПРЕДСТАВЯ ПРОБИВНА ГАМА NUVERA®
ОТ ВЪЗОБНОВЯЕМИ ВЪГЛЕРОДНИ ПОЛИУРЕТАНИ.......135
NDA: NONWOVENS REPORT 2020......................................137
INDA: ДОКЛАД ЗА НЕТЪКАН ТЕКСТИЛ ПРЕЗ 2020 г........137
ACTEEV PROTECT™ MASKS.................................................138
ACTEEV PROTECT™ МАСКИ................................................138
Global Leather Innovation Summit 2021...............................139
Реклами/ADVERTISING .......................107, 128, 131, 133, 136

ОНЛАЙН КОНТАКТИ/ONLINE CONTACTS: 100
[email protected], [email protected], [email protected]

online www.tok-bg.org

4/2021

КОЖЕНОТО ЯКЕ: ТЕНДЕНЦИЯ ОТВЪД БУНТАРСТВОТО

доц. д-р Кристина Савова - департамент „Дизайн“, Нов български
университет, София 1618, България, [email protected]

THE LEATHER JACKET: BEYOND REBELLION FASHION TREND

Assoc. Prof. Christina Savova, Ph.D. - Department of Design, New Bulgarian University,
Sofia 1618, Bulgaria, [email protected]
онлайн списание за ТЕКСТИЛ, ОБЛЕКЛО, КОЖИ И ТЕХНОЛОГИИ ISSN 2535-0447
online magazine for TEXTILES, CLOTHING, LEATHER AND TECHNOLOGY ISSN 2535-0447ABSTRACT:
The article follows the development of the black leather jacket from a functional overcoat as “cool”, dem-
onstrating self-confidence, to its culmination nowadays as emblematic clothing and a leading fashion
trend. It looks at the leather jacket as part of high fashion and includes examples from leading designers.
Traces the emergence and development in Bulgaria. The short leather jacket appeared at the beginning of
the twentieth century as protective clothing for motorcyclists. Over the years, the mystique of this jacket
has attracted not only them, but also film stars, young people, and, of course, fashion designers. It even
goes into high fashion and stays among the leading fashion trends for decades.
Keywords: fashion, fashion style, fashion trend, Мotor jacket, leather jacket, biker jacket

РЕЗЮМЕ 101
Статията проследява развитието на черното кожено
яке от функционално „готино“ яке, демонстриращо
самочувствие, до кулминацията му в днешно време
като емблематично облекло и водеща модна
тенденция. Разглежда коженото яке като част
от висшата мода и включва примери от водещи
дизайнери. Проследява появата и развитието му в
България. Късото кожено яке се появи в началото на
ХХ век като защитно облекло за пилоти. През години-
те мистичността на това яке привлича не само тях, но
също така и филмови звезди, млади хора и, разбира
се, модни дизайнери. Дори влиза във висшата мода и
остава сред водещите модни тенденции в продълже-
ние на десетилетия.
Ключови думи: мода, моден стил, модна тенденция,
кожено яке, пилотско якe.
„Облечете се безупречно и ще ви запомнят”, казва
Коко Шанел на множеството свои последователки
през 20 в. Твърдението се отнася в двойно по-голяма
степен за мъжкият пол. И тъй като първата забележима
дреха във визията е връхната, една от емблемите е
авиаторското яке бомбър (англ. bomber jacket) - яке,
създадено за летците от ВВС на САЩ по време на
Втората световна война. С времето от чисто военна
екипировка то се трансформира в обикновена дреха.
Моделът на пилотското яке бил създаден през 1917
г. Главните му отличителни черти са високата яка,
надлъжен здрав цип, плътно прилепнали маншети и

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онлайн списание за ТЕКСТИЛ, ОБЛЕКЛО, КОЖИ И ТЕХНОЛОГИИ ISSN 2535-0447плетен ластичен колан на талията. Тези дълготрайни авиаторски якета. Освен в авиацията, кожените якета
online magazine for TEXTILES, CLOTHING, LEATHER AND TECHNOLOGY ISSN 2535-0447якета осигурявали на своя притежател удобство,били разпространени във военноморския флот и
безопасност, функционалност и комфорт [1]. полицията. Причина за популярността сред хората
Първите, които започват мащабно производство на от подобни професионални направления се крие в
пилотски якета, са британците. През 1926 г. Лесли особената здравина на използваните материали и
Ървин създава якето Irvin Jacket и неговата компания функционалността на кройката.
става основен доставчик на якета за Кралските ВВС След войната във Виетнам броят на армейските
през цялата Втора световна война [1]. поръчки се съкратил и компанията Alpha Industries –
След британците свои варианти на пилотско яке основен доставчик за ВВС на САЩ – започва продажба
представили американците (модели В-3, В-6, ANJ-4, на цивилни якета [4]. Подходящи за носене от есента
A-2 и G-1) [1]. През 30-те години на 20 в. братята Джон до средата на пролетта, бомбърите бързо завладяват
и Робърт Дъглас получават поръчка за производство най-напред Америка, след това и Европа, където са
на пилотски якета за американските ВВС. Особено известни като „alpha jacket”1.
забележителният модел А-2 се изработвал от конска По времето, когато производителите на МА-1 се
кожа в тъмно- или червено-кафяв цвят, с тъмнокафяв преориентират от военно към цивилно производство,
плетен ластичен колан на талията, плетени маншети и по целия свят започват да се появяват редица важни
яка, отпред с цип и два хоризонтални джоба с капак.
Носели ги пилотите на бомбардировачи, заради
което якето получило названието „бомбър” [2] [1].
За останалите пилоти били разработени по-топли
модели от овча кожа - В-3 и В-6. С повишаване в звание
пилотите нашивали на якето емблеми на ескадрилата
или правели върху тях собствени рисунки и надписи.
На подплатата на бомбъра, по правило, чертаели
карта на мисията [3].

С появата на реактивните самолети, поради субкултурни движения, които възприемат якето и го
необходимостта от олекотяване, се наложило превръщат в неразделна част от своите униформи през
пилотското яке да се усъвършенства, за да се осигури следващите няколко десетилетия. Така, по ирония
максимална свобода на движенията на тялото. Така на съдбата, от униформа бомбърът се превръща в
символ на „бунтаря” в Европа, САЩ и Япония. От 60-
се появява моделът те до 80-те години на 20 в. английските скинхедс,
В-15 от лека материя хевиметали, футболни хулигани и пънкари започват
– найлон, с цип и да носят якето върху тениски, с тесни дънки и кубинки
фиксирана яка от Doc Martens [5] [6] [7] [8]. Пънкарите боядисвали якето
стригана овча кожа, в бордо, поставяли му шипове и дори го изрисували,
трикотажни маншети, украсявайки го с нашивки с имената на любимите
триъгълни държатели им групи [2] [7]. На музикалната арена коженото яке
за кислородна маска, станало елемент от образа не само на пънкарите
предни, „наклонени” (Ramоnes, SexPistоls), но и на рок музикантите, в
рязани джобове и частност, Heavy-metal - Metallica, Antrax, Megadeath,
главна особеност – джоб с цип на ръкава [2]. Този Accept. Якето, с някои модификации, се превръща
модел, заедно със своя предшественик А-1, поставя в защитно облекло най-напред на американските
стандарта за пилотско яке. Между 1949 и 1950 г. на
бял свят се появява моделът МА-1 с плетена яка, за да 1При тази трансформация са направени известни
не пречи при използването на парашута и оранжева промени като замяната на вълнената яка с
подплата с цел да се улесни откриването на пилота при
авария, превръщайки якето в двулицево [1] [2]. Изборът акрилна плетка против износване и предпазване
на найлон, вече установен стандартен материал, е от инсекти, неватирана подплата и допълнителна
обоснован от лесната поддръжка, водоустойчивостта
и устойчивостта на мухъл, насекоми и изпотяване. водоотблъскваща обработка, от някои
Първоначалният цвят на якето е тъмносин, но по производители, за използване в по-влажна среда.
време на Корейската и особено войната във Виетнам,
цветът се променя на сивозелен, за да се осигури по-
добро прикритие на терена [2]. В крайна сметка МА-1
се превръща в основа за всички съвременни брандове

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онлайн списание за ТЕКСТИЛ, ОБЛЕКЛО, КОЖИ И ТЕХНОЛОГИИ ISSN 2535-0447байкъри, а след това, украсено с много шипове ивписва толкова добре в типичния за 1980 г. гардероб,
online magazine for TEXTILES, CLOTHING, LEATHER AND TECHNOLOGY ISSN 2535-0447украса със значки, капси и други метални отличия, въвго прави класически образец на десетилетието.
външен фетиш на моторизираните момчета, приели
ролята на аутсайдери - рокерите [9]. Байкърите,
първообраз на рокерите, първи започват да изграждат
субкултурни ценности въз основа на привързаността
си към мотоциклетите и по-агресивния външен вид
с акцент върху асиметричните ципове на кожените
якета [5]. Този тип яке придобива голяма популярност
чрез Марлон Брандо, който се превъплащава с него
в образа на бунтаря-хулиган във филма „Дивакът”
(1953), превръщайки го в символ на свобода из целия
свят.

През 80-те якето се оказва сред общата униформа на
глобалната гей общност [1]. През 90-те бомбърите
оставят своя отпечатък върху връхното облекло на
гръндж и алтернативни рок вълни [5] [15]. Висшата
мода, от Хелмут Ланг и Рик Оуенс до Раф Симонс,
също започва да проявява сериозен интерес към
военното облекло3. Последният е известен със
своята емблематична колекция есен-зима 2001 „Riot,
Riot, Riot” военни облекла. В зимните колекции на
водещите модни дизайнери за мъжка мода освен
бомбъри от кожа (Valentino и Givenchy) и вълна (Dries
Van Noten) се срещат сатенени модели с принтове и
бродерии (Gucci), както и по-обемни (Maison Magiela,

Популярността на бомбъра обаче избухва през 80- 2 Babcock, G. (2015). A Brief History of the Bomber
те години с включването му в няколко хитови филма Jacket отбелязва и други филми в които то може да се
на десетилетието, които не само стимулирали открие – „Това е Англия” и „Американска история Х”,
разпространението му сред широките маси, но и показващи стилът на пънкари и скинхеадс през 80-те
подсигурили неговото запазване като популярна
връхна дреха и до днес [2]. Сред тях най-забележителни и 90-те години на 20 в.
3 Вж. също Стойков, Теоретични проблеми на модата,
107, който отбелязва, че „субкултурният стил е
са Стив МакКуин в „Ловецът” и, разбира се, Харисън стимул за обновление и развитие на високия стил,
Форд в образа на Индиана Джоунс („Похитители на
изчезналия кивот”) и Клинт Истууд [2] [10]. Впрочем, тъй като със своите необичайни и провокативни
образът на Том Круз от филма „Top Gun” (1986) с форми, обеми, силуети и допълнения разчупва
апликиран бомбър G-1, също помага за неговото
затвърждаване в популярна мода2. Комбинацията от традиционните стереотипи в създаването на
уникални облекла и обогатява знаково и символно
конвенционалния моден дизайн”.
реклама на якето чрез знаменитост и фактът, че то се
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онлайн списание за ТЕКСТИЛ, ОБЛЕКЛО, КОЖИ И ТЕХНОЛОГИИ ISSN 2535-0447Haider Ackermann, Diesel Black Gold и Versace) или носещи бомбър и имащи „неприличен външен
online magazine for TEXTILES, CLOTHING, LEATHER AND TECHNOLOGY ISSN 2535-0447по-вталени (Saint Laurent, Dsquared2, Louis Vuitton и вид”, можеха да се видят в София. Сред тях попадат
Balmain) [8]. Alpha Industries също започна успешно и представители на подрастващата номенклатура,
сътрудничество с редица улични лейбъли чрез най- проявяващи субкултурно поведение, но не толкова да
печелившото си партньорство с рапъра Kanye Wes, покажат различност, колкото с определени елементи
BAPE, New Era и Stussy [2] [10]. С популяризиране на в облеклото си да демонстрират материално
стила „милитъри“ в облеклото, жените все по-често благополучие и превъзходство над останалите6 [11].
започват да обръщат внимание на пилотското яке тъй Преди „епохата”
като вталеният практичен, топъл и удобен модел бил на гласността и
подходящ както за излети, така и за ежедневно носене, п р е у с т р о й с т в о т о
съчетавайки се отлично с джинси, панталони, дори у н и ф о р м е н и я т
поли подчертавайки талията, бедрата и дължината на социализъм в НРБ
крака [1]. Популярността сред жените се дължи и на не позволяваше
известни личности от шоу-бизнеса – Мадона, Кристина много да изпъкваш
Агилера и др. – всички бяха равни
и следователно
В България, коженото еднакви7.
яке е използвано от
военните летци, поне до
смяната му с по-модерно
облекло (гащеризон)
през 80-те години. Якето
не е произвеждано и
разпространявано сред
цивилните, може би най- 4 Л. Стойков, Чаровната мода (калейдоскоп на
напред, поради схващането модата). Философско-публицистичен очерк. София:
(под съветско влияние), „Народна младеж” изд. на ЦК на ДКМС, 1982, 97,
че то е атрибут и на който посочва есето „Кондори из София” на Стефан
власт, а впоследствие, Продев разобличаващо „силно и емоционално
заради „бунтарския” му тази вредна мания”, където тя е определена за
характер и връзката му със „белег на изостанала култура и лошо патриотично и
субкултурата на пънкарите и естетическо възпитание”.
особено на скинарите. Към 5 Срв. течението на „Лада: илюстровано списание за
последното задължително мода и битова култура” за 60-те - 80-те години на 20 в.
трябва да се добави и 6 Срв. също Стойков, Чаровната мода, 167-168.
определянето на якето през 7 Едва през 1990 г. се появява една от първите
80-те години в България колекции за младежка мода на дизайнера Запрян
като „военизиран“ моден Маринов за пловдивския завод „Лиляна Димитрова”
образец или „глупост, в отговор на „търсените от младежите облекла,
декорирана с емблемите приобщаващи към определени движения и идеи”,
на варварството” а самият автор определя „тийнейджърите” за
на държавите „най-перспективните, но и най-безкомпромисни в
членки на НАТО, а изискванията си потребители“ наложили появата
тези, които го носят на „мода хипи, милитъри, пънк” и накарали
„кондори из София”4. стилистите да „влязат в диалог с улицата”. За това
Ако се прелистят вж. Т. Стоичкова, „Кой ни облича”, Лада: списание за
модните списания, естетика, литература, мода, семейство и морал бр. 5
например Лада, там (1990) 8-9. Малко по-рано, друг дизайнер (Г. Цалев)
се среща спортно заявява своите предпочитания към „съвременната
яке от естествена/ мода заради удобството - ризата, блузата, полата,
изкуствена кожа или панталонът, якето, сакото са широки … тя донесе
плат с цип и яка, както и междинните форми (нещо средно между риза и
и кожено яке за лов, сако, между яке и сако, между риза и яке), които са
но не и модел на пилотско яке5. много по-удобни и с обличането едно върху друго
създават не само нов вид на облеклото, но и по-богат
Едва след средата на 80-те години на 20 в. („епохата” гардероб. Срв. М. Гайтанекова, Георги Цалев – със
на гласността и преустройството), отделни индивиди, свое виждане, Лада август 1986, с. 9.

online www.tok-bg.org 104

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онлайн списание за ТЕКСТИЛ, ОБЛЕКЛО, КОЖИ И ТЕХНОЛОГИИ ISSN 2535-0447Разрешените аксесоари, с които да изразиш своятаПрез 1992 г. якето бомбър се появява на българския
online magazine for TEXTILES, CLOTHING, LEATHER AND TECHNOLOGY ISSN 2535-0447естетическа и светогледна различност, са сведенителевизионен екран в реклама по Първа програма на
до минимум, а всяко различие извън позволеното БНТ: „К’во е това бе? …(на което глас отговаря) Това
първоначално се инкриминира. Снабдяването със е яке-бомбър”. Година-две по-късно се появяват
заветния аксесоар върви по линията „донесено от български кожени версии на якето, произведени в
чужбина” от български специалисти в африканските и Ловеч.
близкоизточни страни, чрез които се стигна до „най- По това време, кожените костюми, ако не са донесени
голямото нашествие на западни вещи в България” от чужбина, са най-често с етикета на Георги Георгиев-
[11], моряци, тираджии или на черна борса. Пентаграм. Модната му къща, създадена през 1991
г., е наложила и запазила до днес своя собствен
провокативен и атрактивен стил, отличаващ се с
идейно многообразие и цветова иновативност. По
думите на дизайнера кожата, която изцяло използва
като материя в работата си, остава „царицата в
модата” и е „висшият пилотаж, при който трябва да
знаеш какво правиш”10.

В самия край на 80-те години на 20 в.8 якето може да
се види вече върху гърба на някой „неформал” край
Кравай (бистро на кръстовището на бул. Патриарх
Евтимий и ул. Фритьоф Нансен), където се формира
„най-отявления протест срещу системата, макар и
само с облеклото, прическите, обеците и различното
си мислене”[12] [13] и „имиджът е изграден според 8 Чак по това време в пресата започва да се говори по-
музикалните предпочитания”9 [14]. Облеклото открито за субкултурите и техните почитатели. Срв.,
и представянето му като западна вещ е израз на напр., Портрет в движение, Лада, бр. 3 (1990) 10-13
„съзнателно или полусъзнателно политическо (снимки на момчета в кожени якета); Д. Варзоновцев,
противопоставяне на За всички, 5 (1989) 39 (снимки на пънкар и рокер);
режима” [11]. Българските Л. Орлова, В търсене на ориентир, Лада 5/6 (1988)
скинари твърдят, че 28-29 (посветена на диското); Същата, Побързайте
появата на бомбъра в да я следвате, Лада 7 (1988) 20 (плах призив да не се
България се дължи на тях, отрича новата мода): Същата, Младостта не „излиза”
но същото могат да кажат от мода, Лада 9 (1988) 18-19 (модата у пънкари и
и пънкарите. В крайна модс).
сметка, по обективни 9 Събиращите се на Кравай метъли, рокери, пънкари,
причини, в България по-късно скинове, вярват, че с черните кожени якета
бомбъра се появява със с капси и с ципове, с боядисаните в черно и синьо
закъснение в самия край „гребени” се опълчват на системата. http://www.
на 80-те – началото на 90- bgnow.eu/news.php?cat=2&cp=8&newsid=28608
те години. (посетен на 07.07.2019 г.)

online www.tok-bg.org 105

4/2021

онлайн списание за ТЕКСТИЛ, ОБЛЕКЛО, КОЖИ И ТЕХНОЛОГИИ ISSN 2535-0447Световните дизайнери продължават да използват daily-details/2012/12/a-history-of-leather-pride-and-
online magazine for TEXTILES, CLOTHING, LEATHER AND TECHNOLOGY ISSN 2535-0447коженото яке като източник на вдъхновение. Някоиglory-the-art-of-the-rockers-jacket.html (18.10.2014)
от тях успяват да излязат извън границите на неговата [4] Куртка бомбер. - The Fashion of Story. Русский
конструкция и символика, далеч надхвърляйки Журнал о Моде в Европе. http://thefashionofstory.
класическия силует Perfecto. Визия от 2005 г. от com/bomber/ (посетен на 07.07.2019 г.)
колекцията [5] Стойков, Л. (2206). Теоретични проблеми на
Biker+Ballerina модата. София: От игла до конец, 103-104 (скинхедс),
на Рей Кавакубо 118-123 (пънк), 111-112, 123-125,
за Comme des [6] Dennis, M., LaPorte, N. (2011). State and Minorities in
Garçons, смесва Communist East Germany, Berghahn Books, 170
стилистиките, [7] Свирина, О. Мода субкультур: тренды из прошлого,
съчетаващо https://melonrich.ru/moda/russkij-stil/moda-subkultur-
твърдите и trendyi-iz-proshlogo.html; http://modaria.ru/kurtka-
агресивни bomber/ (посетен на 07.07.2019 г.)
асоциации на [8] Реджеб, Ю. (2016). Якето бомбър вече е за момичета,
коженото яке https://m.24chasa.bg/ojivlenie/article/5755211
с мекотата и (посетен на 07.07.2019 г.)
женствеността
на романтичната
пола.

Още от появата си през 1928 г. коженото яке се [9] Дерюгину, Т. (2018). Rocket Jacket: всё что нужно
адаптира към различни тенденции, докато елементите знать о косухе, http://rockis.ru/rocket-jacket/ (посетен
му са включени в множество стилове на облекло. Днес на 07.07.2019 г.)
то отново е в челните редици на модните тенденции. [10] Cruz, J. (2016). A Brief History of the Bomber Jacket:
Неговият обмислен дизайн продължава да насърчава From the Cockpit to the Runway, Fashion, https://
интерпретирането му отново и отново от модните hypebeast.com/2016/11/bomber-jacket-streetwear-
дизайнери. Линията, силуета и символика му са го facts (посетен на 07.07.2019 г.)
утвърдили като модна класика, благодарение на което [11] Марков, Г. (1990). Задочни репортажи за България.
улавяме динамичното му присъствие както на модния София: Профиздат, 209
подиум, така и на улицата.

И накрая, независимо дали като връхна дреха [12] Георгиев, С., Вълчева, Т. (2015). Близки срещи от
пилотското яке завладява филмите или поп културата, градски вид. Разходка из местата, събиращи софиянци
то завинаги ще остане синоним на удобство, стил и, през годините навън. Капитал Light, видяно в: http://
разбира се, ще внесе нотка на бунт не само в мъжкия, www.capital.bg/light/tema/2015/05/15/2532971_blizki_
но и в дамския гардероб. Днес, въпреки масовото sreshti_ot_gradski_vid/?sp=0#storystart (посетен на
индустриално производство на синтетичните 10.07.2019 г.)
материали, кожените изделия продължават да [13] По следите на изгубените култови места в София-II:
намират своето място на пазара, а най-големите Кравай и Милина. socbg.com. . [посетен на 10.07.2019 г.],
брандове - да представят избрани колекции, видяно в: http://socbg.com/2015/01/%D0%BF%D0%BE-
изработени от кожа. %D1%81%D0%BB%D0%B5%D0%B4%D0%B8%D1%82%
REFERENCES/ЛИТЕРАТУРА D0%B5-%D0%BD%D0%B0-%D0%B8%D0%B7%D0%B3%
[1] История куртки Пилот (бомбер, flight jacket, A-1, A-2, D1%83%D0%B1%D0%B5%D0%BD%D0%B8%D1%82%D0
MA-1, B-15): https://forma-odezhda.ru/encyclopedia/ %B5-%D0%BA%D1%83%D0%BB%D1%82%D0%BE%D0%
istoriya-kurtki-pilot-bomber-ma-21/ (посетен на B2%D0%B8-%D0%BC%D0%B5%D1%81%D1%82-2.html
07.07.2019 г.) (посетен на 07.07.2019 г.)

[2] Babcock, G. (2015). A Brief History of the Bomber [14] „Пънкарите – на гребен, фланелки с анархията,
Jacket, https://web.archive.org/web/20171007202043/ кожени якета, тиранти, кубинки ”: https://www.capital.
http://www.complex.com/style/2015/03/a-history-of- bg/light/tema/2015/05/15/2532971_blizki_sreshti_ot_
the-bomber-jacket/ (посетен на 07.07.2019 г.) gradski_vid/?sp=2#storystart (посетен на 14.07.2019 г.)

[3] Wagstaff, K. (2012). A History of Leather: The Art of the [15] Тодорова, Е. (2020). Бижуто като знак и символ,
Rockers› Jacket. Details. http://www.details.com/blogs/ София, 102-104

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онлайн списание за ТЕКСТИЛ, ОБЛЕКЛО, КОЖИ И ТЕХНОЛОГИИ ISSN 2535-0447virtual EDITION
online magazine for TEXTILES, CLOTHING, LEATHER AND TECHNOLOGY ISSN 2535-0447Southeast Asia Nonwoven and

COVID-19 Can’t Stop Our Pace of Development

June 2-4, 2021

ANDTEX 2021 Virtual ANDTEX 2021
June 2 - 4, 2021 October 27-29, 2021
Online Platform Bangkok, Thailand

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онлайн списание за ТЕКСТИЛ, ОБЛЕКЛО, КОЖИ И ТЕХНОЛОГИИ ISSN 2535-0447THE LATEST STRETCH TECHNOLOGY ADVANCEMENT
online magazine for TEXTILES, CLOTHING, LEATHER AND TECHNOLOGY ISSN 2535-0447IN THE APPAREL MARKET-ADJUSTEC STRETCH COLLAR

ПОСЛЕДНО РАЗВИТИЕ В СТРЕЧ ТЕХНОЛОГИЯТА НА ПАЗАРА
ЗА ОБЛЕКЛО-ADJUSTEC СТРЕЧ ЯКА

Adjustec Stretch Collar Stretch Comfort. Integrated with a performance-driven
At Talon, we believe that the design is in the fine details. stretch material that’s patented to give your customers
Everything should be planned and taken with utmost the relaxed comfort they deserve in every shirt.
significance to give your customers the satisfaction they No Shrinkage. Each collar is ensured to be machine
deserve. washable and eliminates shrinking to guarantee the
perfect fit for every occasion!

ADJUSTEC STRETCH COLLAR :
-Adds stretch to non-stretch fabric;
-Controls stretch fabric;
-Eliminates shrinking to ensure the perfect fit;
-Provides stretch and recovery for the life of the garment;
-Offers ultimate comfort in the collar;
-Contains patented technology.

So, without further ado, here’s our Adjustec Stretch This is why 1 in 5 dress shirts in North America incorporate
Collar that is integrated with a patented technology It Adjustec and how it became the number 1 seller in the
delivers game-changing comfort and functionality to your dress shirt market.
signature shirts. Adjustec is Talon’s cutting-edge innovation in the apparel
industry. Adjustec incorporates the patented and patent-
pending stretch technology to create long-lasting and
durable waistbands, collar stands, and even for knees and
elbows! Through Talon’s strict supervision and extensive
knowledge of manufacturing, the apparel industry can
now transform non-flexible denim and woven fabrics to
remarkably expand and recover back to its original size.
Get ready to bring your customers maximum comfort
while they’re at work or out on the town!

Why Choose Our Stretch Collar? About us Talon
Supreme Durability. Unlike traditional collars, our Stretch At Talon, we invented the world’s first zipper in 1893,
Collar Technology is made with the finest materials on the changing the face of fashion forever. With a pedigree
market. It’s built for performance and will last for years to like this, it may seem like we would sit on the laurels of
come! our earlier accomplishments. Instead, we’re committed
to moving fashion forward with custom trim, tags and a
wide variety of printed marketing solutions. We continue

our legacy of innovation in apparel technology with
the introduction of Tekfit stretch technology. Today,
more so than ever before, design is in the details. With
an unwavering dedication to quality, innovation and
service, we value the opportunity to serve our esteemed
customers with a wide range of custom trims and zippers
with equal attention to form and functionality. Heritage

is who we are, innovation is what we do.

Source: https://taloninternational.com/

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онлайн списание за ТЕКСТИЛ, ОБЛЕКЛО, КОЖИ И ТЕХНОЛОГИИ ISSN 2535-0447LEAP - THE NEW SUSTAINABLE LEATHER ALTERNATIVE
online magazine for TEXTILES, CLOTHING, LEATHER AND TECHNOLOGY ISSN 2535-0447MADE FROM LEFTOVER APPLES

LEAP - НОВA УСТОЙЧИВA АЛТЕРНАТИВА НА КОЖА,
НАПРАВЕНА ОТ ЯБЪЛКОВИ ОСТАТЪЦИ

Introducing Leap - the new sustainable leather alternative "We believe that products should either be re-used or slip
made from leftover apples. back into nature. We love a challenge and making the im-
Copenhagen-based Beyond Leather Materials ApS intro- possible possible keeps us going." says Hannah Michaud,
duces LeapTM the plant-based leather alternative created Co-founder and CCO. Leap has an 80% bio-based compo-
from upcycled apple waste from the juice and cider indus- sition for now, but the company has clear plans to phase
try. out any fossil fuel-derived ingredients and become com-
pletely bio-based in only a few years.

Leap is setting a strong example of sustainable material About Beyond Leather
development, with its 80% bio-based composition and its Beyond Leather is set out to disrupt the leather industry
focus on recyclability by design. The material's 3-layered with Leap, the sustainable leather alternative made from
design of an organic textile backing, a 100% plastic and upcycled apple waste.
petrochemical-free apple waste blend, and a protective The company was established in 2017 in Copenhagen by
finishing coating make Leap able to be disassembled at Hannah Michaud and Mikael Eydt. They have raised a 1.1
the end of life and therefore more sustainable than most million € investment in 2020 and they expanded from 4 to
leather alternatives available today. 7 employees in the same year. Their material innovation

Thanks to its energy-efficient production, Leap can be pro- was recognized at multiple start-up competitions. Beyond
duced in only one day using 99% less water and emitting Leather was a finalist at Creative Business Cup Denmark
85% less CO2 than traditional leather production, without 2018, at Scale-Up Denmark 2019, and won the clim@
the use of animals or harmful tanning substances. The re- 2020 competition hosted by the Green for Growth Fund.
sult is a beautiful, leather-like material with a supple han- Beyond Leather’s mate-
dle. rial Leap is going to debut

in the fashion market and
Traditional leather and alternatives make the fashion in- will be available in indus-
dustry one of the most polluting industries on the globe trial scale by 2022. But the company does not stop here,
while causing unnecessary harm to animals, people, and it is set to conquer all industries where traditional leather
the environment. Beyond Leather has found inspiration in is used today.
nature to solve not just the leather problem, but another
important issue of today's societies: food waste. 1 out 5 Source: www.explore-leap.com
apples go to waste in cider and juice production which www.instagram.com/beyond.leather/
means 600 000 tons of leftover apples only in Europe eve-
ry year.

online www.tok-bg.org 109

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THE 20th INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION
ON TEXTILE INDUSTRY (SHANGHAITEX 2021)

20-ТО МЕЖДУНАРОДНО ИЗЛОЖЕНИЕ ЗА ТЕКСТИЛНА ИНДУСТРИЯ
(SHANGHAITEX 2021)

ShanghaiTex 2021 & TexTech Galaxy
Gather Technological Innovation of Textile Fashion．

Cross-border Cooperation and Transformation
The 20th International Exhibition on Textile Industry (ShanghaiTex 2021) will be grandly held on 23-26 November
2021 at Shanghai (Pudong) New International Expo Centre, it is expected to gather a number of global leading textile
and fashion suppliers to showcase a range of intelligent textile technology, innovative health and green technology,
inspiring the future for the textile and fashion industry.
“Textech Galaxy” Two Highlighted Events
Healthcare in the New Normal. Explore "Fashion Textile x Artificial Intelligence"
“Textech Galaxy” as the strategic partner of ShanghaiTex, will organize a series of presentations and professional fo-
rums to explore three major highlights with the visitors: Healthcare, Green & Recycle and Artificial Intelligence, gath-
ering leaders, brands, executives, scholars, entrepreneurs, designers, and enthusiasts in the traditional and emerging
industries globally, in order to ignite future trend and open up exciting conversations, triggering a revolutionary change
in the industry.
онлайн списание за ТЕКСТИЛ, ОБЛЕКЛО, КОЖИ И ТЕХНОЛОГИИ ISSN 2535-0447
online magazine for TEXTILES, CLOTHING, LEATHER AND TECHNOLOGY ISSN 2535-0447
 2021 International Healthcare and Textile Sci-Tech Innovation Conference
As more people pursue for a healthy life, the field of functional textiles will continue to develop. “TexTech Galaxy” will
organize 2021 International Healthcare and Textile Sci-Tech Innovation Conference with The China Health Care Associa-
tion Textile Branch during ShanghaiTex, in the form of display and conference. This year, the conference set antibacte-
rial and antiviral materials as the main themes, this allows the material experts to discuss how to use innovative textile
technology to wear healthy clothes during day and night, providing an open platform for healthy functional textile
enterprises to exchange information.

 The 3rd Artificial Intelligence on Fashion & Textile International Conference (AIFT 2021)
The academic research of artificial intelligence (AI) and its application in the fashion and textile industries have be-
come a hot topic, related technologies such as big data of textile and apparel, e-commerce of apparel, personalization,
and supply chain optimization have all received great attention from the industry. AIFT 2021 will be organized by the
National Dong Hwa University, Laboratory for Artificial Intelligence in Design Limited (AiDLab) and ShanghaiTex; co-
organized by the AIFT Alliance, Journal of Donghua University (English Edition) and Textech Galaxy on 24-25 November
2021 at the Shanghai (Pudong) New International Expo Centre. The event will provide a platform for researchers,
engineers and industry professionals in the field of AI and fashion textile to exchange and discuss on the development
of cutting-edge artificial intelligence technology and practical applications in the fashion and textile industry, creating
opportunities for academia and industry to establish cooperative relationships and find global partners.

online www.tok-bg.org 110

4/2021

9 Thematic Zones in ShanghaiTex 2021
-Assist you in finding Cutting-edge Textile Technology and Life Applications
-Nonwovens & Techtextile Zone (NEW)
-Textech Galaxy / Textech Startup Planet (NEW)
-Spinning, Man-made Fibre & Techtextile Machinery Zone
-Weaving Machinery Zone
-Spare Parts and Accessories for Textile Machinery Zone
-Knitting & Hosiery Machinery Zone
-Printing, Dyeing & Finishing Machinery Zone
-Digital Printing Machinery Zone
-Dyestuff & Textile Chemicals Zone
Online + Offline Events Driving the Industry Forward under Covid-19
Other than the exhibition, ShanghaiTex 2021 will co-organize a range of online events with "Textech Galaxy", helping
visitors to connect with textile professionals and innovation leaders. Browse the show websites of ShanghaiTex and
"Textech Galaxy" to learn more about the exhibition and events. Seize the opportunity to keep yourself updated with
the industry trends, we look forward to seeing you in our events!
онлайн списание за ТЕКСТИЛ, ОБЛЕКЛО, КОЖИ И ТЕХНОЛОГИИ ISSN 2535-0447
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"ShanghaiTex" is sponsored by Orient International (Holding) Co., Ltd., China Council for the Promotion of International
Trade Shanghai Sub-council and China Chamber of International Commerce Shanghai Chamber of Commerce. And it is
organized by Shanghai Textile Technology Service & Exhibition Co., Ltd., Shanghai International Exhibition Co Ltd and
Adsale Exhibition Service Ltd.

For Visiting / Exhibitoring Enquiry:
https://www.shanghaitex.cn/STX21/contactus/

Textech Galaxy Event Info:
www.TextechGalaxy.net
Social links at:

Facebook: @ShanghaiTex1984
Twitter: @ShanghaiTex
LinkedIn: @ShanghaiTex

ShanghaiTex Website: www.ShanghaiTex.cn

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ECONOMIC DEVELOPMENT, GOVERNANCE, AND ENTERPRISE

GROWTH (EDGE) PROJECT
IMPROVING THE COMPETITIVENESS OF THE TEXTILE/APPAREL INDUSTRY

THROUGH DIGITALIZATION
“The textile industry in the countries of the Western Balkan Region at the dawn of

the fourth industrial revolution” - Blagoja Milosevski
USAID Economic Development, Governance and Enterprise Growth (EDGE)

Implemented by International Development Group LLC (IDG)
131a Bukureshka Street, 1000 Skopje North Macedonia • Tel : +389 2 3077 781
онлайн списание за ТЕКСТИЛ, ОБЛЕКЛО, КОЖИ И ТЕХНОЛОГИИ ISSN 2535-0447
online magazine for TEXTILES, CLOTHING, LEATHER AND TECHNOLOGY ISSN 2535-0447Contents1890s
- Industrial revolutions and the textile / apparel sector First spreading machine
- Textile / apparel industry in the countries of the Western First buttonhole machine
Balkan Region 2nd Industrial Revolution
- Value chain analysis Technological Revolution
- Impact of COVID-19 pandemic on SMEs (Electricity)
- Workforce analysis 1870 - 1914
- Conclusions 1947 – 1969
- Recommendations Transition from mechanical and analogue to
Industrial revolutions and the textile / apparel sector digital
1712 Invention of the first commercially successful 1969 – 1989
Internet and home
steam engine (1776 improvements by James computers
Watt) 1989 – 2005
world wide web (web 1.0)
1769 First mechanical
spinning machine

1785 Invention of the power loom 3rd Industrial Revolution
1st Industrial Revolution Digital Revolution
Industrial Revolution (Automation)
(Mechanical) 1940s-
1760 - 1840 2011 –
Intelligent networking of
1851 Invention of the first machines and processes for
sewing machine industry with the help of
information and
communication technology
(computerization of
manufacturing)

1870 Investments in automation
First production assembly and skills of workers (high
line qualified workers).

1850s 4th Industrial Revolution
Standard sizing and ready Industry 4.0
made garments (Cyber-physical systems)
1860 2011 -
First band knife machine

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Overview of the textile/apparel industry
Table*: Brief overview of the textile/apparel industry in the countries of the Western Balkan Region (2018)

Sources: - National statistical offices of individual countries
- www.trademap.org
* Chapter 5 and groups 60, 61, 62 and 63 from customs nomenclature n/a – not available
Export data
• Albania – export by tariff group and by year (in 000 $US)

Source: Institute of Statistics of Albania, https://instat.gov.al
*Data for 2020 are preliminary
Export data
• Bosnia and Herzegovina – export by tariff group and by year (in 000 $US)
онлайн списание за ТЕКСТИЛ, ОБЛЕКЛО, КОЖИ И ТЕХНОЛОГИИ ISSN 2535-0447
online magazine for TEXTILES, CLOTHING, LEATHER AND TECHNOLOGY ISSN 2535-0447
Source: Agency of Statistics of Bosnia and Herzegovina, https://bhas.ba
*Data for 2020 are preliminary 113

USAID Economic Development, Governance and Enterprise Growth (EDGE)

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онлайн списание за ТЕКСТИЛ, ОБЛЕКЛО, КОЖИ И ТЕХНОЛОГИИ ISSN 2535-0447Export data
online magazine for TEXTILES, CLOTHING, LEATHER AND TECHNOLOGY ISSN 2535-0447• Kosovo – export by tariff group and by year (in 000 $US)

Source: Kosovo Agency of Statistics, https://ask.rks-gov.net
*Data for 2020 are preliminary
Export data
• Montenegro – export by tariff group and by year (in 000 $US)

Source: Statistical Office of Montenegro, https://www.monstat.org/
*Data for 2020 are preliminary

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онлайн списание за ТЕКСТИЛ, ОБЛЕКЛО, КОЖИ И ТЕХНОЛОГИИ ISSN 2535-0447Export data
online magazine for TEXTILES, CLOTHING, LEATHER AND TECHNOLOGY ISSN 2535-0447• North Macedonia – export by tariff group and by year (in 000 $US)

Source: State Statistical Office of North Macedonia, https://stat.gov.mk
*Data for 2020 are preliminary
Export data
• Serbia – export by tariff group and by year (in 000 $US)

Source: State Statistical Office of Serbia, https://www.stat.gov.rs
*Data for 2020 are preliminary

USAID Economic Development, Governance and Enterprise Growth (EDGE) 115
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онлайн списание за ТЕКСТИЛ, ОБЛЕКЛО, КОЖИ И ТЕХНОЛОГИИ ISSN 2535-0447• Export by country in 2019 (‘000 $US)
online magazine for TEXTILES, CLOTHING, LEATHER AND TECHNOLOGY ISSN 2535-0447Export Summary

Export data
• Western Balkan Region – export by tariff group and by year (in 000 $US)

Source: National Statistical Offices of individual countries
*Data for 2020 are preliminary
For comparison
• Global workforce: 3.4 billion people
• Global workforce in textile and apparel: 430 million people(12%) (WB Region represents
0,035% of global number of employees in textile and apparel)
• About 75% of the employees in textile and apparel are women
• Global export in 2019: 573 billion $US (WB Region represents 0,41% of global exports)

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онлайн списание за ТЕКСТИЛ, ОБЛЕКЛО, КОЖИ И ТЕХНОЛОГИИ ISSN 2535-0447Workforce analysis
online magazine for TEXTILES, CLOTHING, LEATHER AND TECHNOLOGY ISSN 2535-0447• The future of textile/garment industry depends on skilled workforce
• Online survey of 134 companies (about 3 % of all textile / garment enterprises
in the WB region)
• Direct interviews with companies
• Direct interviews with BSOs
• Direct interviews with VET schools
Workforce analysis – online survey of the companies
• 7337 employees in 134 companies; Predominantly female industry

Workforce analysis – online survey of the companies Workforce analysis – online survey of the companies
• 63% of interviewed companies export • 93 (69%) companies expected that the sales in 2020 will
decrease

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онлайн списание за ТЕКСТИЛ, ОБЛЕКЛО, КОЖИ И ТЕХНОЛОГИИ ISSN 2535-0447Workforce analysis – online survey of the companies
online magazine for TEXTILES, CLOTHING, LEATHER AND TECHNOLOGY ISSN 2535-0447• 37% of the companies had significant changes in the number of employees

Workforce analysis – online survey of the companies
• Skills development requirements

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онлайн списание за ТЕКСТИЛ, ОБЛЕКЛО, КОЖИ И ТЕХНОЛОГИИ ISSN 2535-0447Workforce analysis – online survey of the companies
online magazine for TEXTILES, CLOTHING, LEATHER AND TECHNOLOGY ISSN 2535-0447• 45 companies (34%) stated to have training organized for their employees

Workforce analysis – online survey of the companies
• Availability of workforce

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онлайн списание за ТЕКСТИЛ, ОБЛЕКЛО, КОЖИ И ТЕХНОЛОГИИ ISSN 2535-0447Workforce analysis – online survey of the companies
online magazine for TEXTILES, CLOTHING, LEATHER AND TECHNOLOGY ISSN 2535-0447• Popularization of jobs in the industry

Workforce analysis – direct interviews with companies
• In general, new employees are not prepared for the work immediately after they finish their studies. Minimum of
three months of on-the-job training
• Some of the apparel/textile companies have their small teams (team leaders) of experienced staff that are regularly
training staff
• Good cooperation with universities and VET schools. Some companies have signed MoU with universities to accept
internships from them
• Most of the companies that are interviewed are not regularly organizing internships

Workforce analysis – direct interviews with companies
• The apparel/textile industry is seen generally as not an attractive industry for young people
• Companies use a wide range of methods in the recruitment of staff
• Most of the companies stated that they prefer referrals and recommendations, and they encourage their family
members or friends to refer to a job opening
• All interviewed companies feel that, now, there is a deficit of skilled professionals, engineers in the apparel/textile
industry and mechanics for maintenance of machines

Workforce analysis – direct interviews with companies
• Free commentary and recommendations from companies that were interviewed:
– By promoting local capacity production we will be in a position to stimulate the interest of the workforce in the textile
industry,
– Organization of trainings for specific skills e.g. production managers, mechanics, etc.
– We have to provide workers in the industry with higher wages, so they don’t leave the country.

Workforce analysis – interviews with VET schools
VET schools - main fields of specialization, include:
– agriculture, food processing, tourism, ICT, veterinary, energy, construction, textiles and clothing design, architecture
and pharmaceutics

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Implemented by International Development Group LLC (IDG)

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online magazine for TEXTILES, CLOTHING, LEATHER AND TECHNOLOGY ISSN 2535-0447
• High interest for ICT and pharmaceuticals
• Try to provide professional and relevant trainings
• Maintain cooperation with similar centers in Europe
• Received support in identifying the industry requirements
• Challenges:
– Introduction of new curriculum
– Decrease in the number of students in recent years for certain professions, while for some there is no interest at all
Workforce analysis – interviews with BSOs
Evaluation of skills requirements through regular meetings and workshops organized with the associations’ members
• Some associations organize annual surveys for the requirements
• The trainings are mostly carried out in cooperation with state VET centers and
universities. Donor organizations’ support is always welcome.
• There are also private training companies. The cooperation with these private training companies with textile and
garment businesses is limited to the trainings for the soft skills (no trainings in specific technical skills required for the
textile industry)
• Lack of skilled labor in the following profiles:
- Production managers (middle managers). They are very import to maintain quality of the products and save raw ma-
terial
- Textile machines maintenance.
Conclusions
• The textiles and apparel sector is an important segment of the manufacturing
industries of the countries in the Western Balkans
• Labor intensive industry
• Production is mainly based on the “lon” principle (CM - Cut Make, CMT - Cut
Make Trim)
• Production workers in the textile/garment industry are among the lowest paid
in the manufacturing industry
• Advantages of the region:
– Proximity to the EU market
– Long tradition in the textile / garment industry
– Experienced workforce
Challenges for the textile/apparel companies in the region
Lack of skilled labor
• Management skills and a lack of sophisticated management
• Lack of information about potential suppliers and market demand for the products
• Lack of access to finance
• Under-utilization of ICT
• Changes in the marketplace amidst and after the Corona-19 pandemic

Recommendations
• Institutional support
– Improve and make the access to finance easier for investments in new production technologies that will enable the
companies improve productivity and competitiveness
– Assist financially the companies during the Covid-19 pandemia period
– Support branding - both local and regional

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Recommendations
• Education
– Introduce more IT related subjects in the education. The future workers in this industry will have to be IT knowledge-
able
– Introduce and promote design for circular economy
– Introduction of obligatory practical education and its full implementation in real business environment, for the stu-
dents in the secondary and tertiary education
– Promotion of life-long learning and collaborative learning on all levels of education

Recommendations
• Business Support Organizations
– Further develop their services/products
– Accumulate and disseminate data market trends and potentials
– Increase membership
– Lobbying
Recommendations
• Companies
– Create local/regional partnerships for joint approach to markets
– Increase the use of consultants (legal, marketing, management, access to
finance)
– Improve on the job training
– Establish procedures and culture of collaborative learning, job shadowing
– Continuously invest in new equipment and in training of the employees.
онлайн списание за ТЕКСТИЛ, ОБЛЕКЛО, КОЖИ И ТЕХНОЛОГИИ ISSN 2535-0447
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Implemented by International Development Group LLC (IDG) 122

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ECONOMIC DEVELOPMENT, GOVERNANCE, AND ENTERPRISE
GROWTH (EDGE) PROJECT

“Improving the competitiveness of the textile and apparel industry
through digitalization” -Severinova Biljana, Certified in Digital Transformation

for SMEs, [email protected]
USAID Economic Development, Governance and Enterprise Growth (EDGE)
Implemented by International Development Group LLC (IDG)131a Bukureshka Street,

1000 Skopje North Macedonia • Tel : +389 2 3077 781
онлайн списание за ТЕКСТИЛ, ОБЛЕКЛО, КОЖИ И ТЕХНОЛОГИИ ISSN 2535-0447
online magazine for TEXTILES, CLOTHING, LEATHER AND TECHNOLOGY ISSN 2535-0447CONTENTinto different areas in one company.
1. WHAT IS DIGITAL TRANSFORMATION • Digital transformation is a way of thinking,
2. AUTOMATION AND TRANSFORMATION LEVEL IN TEX- • A “strategic tool” for growth and development!
TILE INDUSTRIES IN OUR REGION
3. BENEFITS OF DIGITAL TRANSFORMATION STRATEGY Only for IT companies and banks
4. WHAT AREAS CAN BE TRANSFORMED DIGITALLY?
5. WHAT IS THE PROCESS OF DIGITAL TRANSFORMATION 
IN TEXTILE INDUSTRY?
6. CASE STUDY: TEXTILE FACTORY TRANSFORMATION • Too expensive
7. CHALLENGES OF TEXTILE ENTERPRENEURS: • Buying new computers for employees
a) Finding funding / Approving investment • Opening a web shop
b) Identification of areas for transformation • Switching to electronic banking,
c) Machinery and programming • Individual application of things that just start with the
d) Employees redistribution letter “E” such as: E-Business, E-Commerce, E-Banking…
e) Next steps: what to do once you reach satisfactory level • Using Facebook for marketing
of digital transformation • Individual attempts to be “innovative” and “agile”
8. Q&A • Using digitalization partially and only in fragments
WHAT IS – AND WHAT’S NOT DIGITAL TRANSFORMATION
WHAT IS DIGITAL TRANSFORMATION
 Digital Transformation
- a process of integration of digital technologies in all ar-
eas of operation, through a digital business model

• A completely new use of digital technology Digitalization
-the process of connecting individual digital information
• Digital solutions that lead to new types of in automated operation
Digitalization
• Integration of vast complex digital technologies -converting analog information into digital form

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онлайн списание за ТЕКСТИЛ, ОБЛЕКЛО, КОЖИ И ТЕХНОЛОГИИ ISSN 2535-0447Asia Wipes Summit 2021
online magazine for TEXTILES, CLOTHING, LEATHER AND TECHNOLOGY ISSN 2535-0447
“Green Innovation and Sustainable Solutions” was the key theme of the first Asia Wipes Summit held in Shanghai,
China April 1-2, 2021. The leading conference jointly organized by China Nonwovens & Industrial Textiles Association
(CNITA) and E.J. Krause & Associates, Inc. (EJK) on the wipes industry brought together 350 participants from the
complete wipes industrial chain ranging from fibers & raw material suppliers, machinery & equipment manufacturers
to retailers & distributers, academia, and the end-users in personal care, baby care, medical care, cosmetics, industrial
& household cleaning.

This high-level international forum on the wipes industry held when the world is facing with the new challenges and
demands from combating the COVID-19 pandemic has special significance. It has gained tremendous support from
both Chinese and international industry associations, as well as major trade and industrial players. Supporting associa-
tions included INDA, EDANA, Japan Hygiene Products Industry Association (JHPIA) and The Thai Nonwoven Fabrics In-
dustry Trade Association TNFA. Cotton Council International (CCI), Zhejiang Kingsafe Group Co., Ltd., Danlian Ruiguang
Nonwoven Group Co., Ltd., Sateri and ANDRITZ Group sponsored the Summit.

Around the central theme of green and sustainable development, this platform for sharing and exchanging the innova-
tive technology, expertise, and analysis to promote the wipes industry in Asia, 18 keynote speakers made their insight-
ful presentations. Industry analysis, consumer insights, green sustainability, industrial connectivity, technology and
product innovation, standard interpretation, ecommerce data, marketing, brand strategy were highlights.

Dr. Li Lingshen, Vice President of China National Textile and Apparel Council (CNTAC), President of China Nonwo-
vens and Industrial Textiles Association (CNITA) delivered the welcome address to all attendees. Keynote speakers
at the Summit included: Dave Rousse, President of Association of the Nonwoven Fabrics Industry (INDA); Zhang Yun,
Vice President of China Nonwovens and Industrial Textiles Association (CNITA); Yan Huarong, President of Hygiene,
Maternal and Infant Branch, CNITA; Liu Tao, Nonwoven Green Alliance President; Gil Stevens, External Relations and
Sustainability Director, EDANA. Further, Asia Wipes Summit 2021 offered a venue for companies to showcase their lat-
est products and solutions. 15 exhibiting companies were onsite to display their latest innovations and products. To
propel the professional exchanges, the Summit provided the ideal opportunity for the participants to network with the
wipes industry suppliers and experts, as well as the dealers and consumer representatives.
Along with the rapid expansion of the wipes market and the substantial demand for the wipes solutions and innova-
tions, the next edition of the Asia Wipes Summit will be announced shortly. Please visit www.asiawipes.com for the
updates and the schedule for the next Asia Wipes Summit.

About China Nonwovens & Industrial Textiles Association (CNITA)
China Nonwovens & Industrial Textiles Association (CNITA) is an organization approved by the Ministry of Civil Affairs
of the People’s Republic of China. It is a social intermediary organization which is comprised of enterprises, institutions,
and relative associations in the field of nonwovens and technical textiles. The main mission of CNITA is to comply poli-
cies, laws and regulations, preserve the rights and interests of its members, serve as a bridge between government and
enterprises, promote technological progress and industry development.

About E.J. Krause & Associates, Inc. (EJK)
For more than 30 years, E.J. Krause & Associates, Inc. (EJK) has been a worldwide leader in exhibition and conference
management. EJK is one of the largest privately held exhibition management companies in the world, with offices on
three continents. EJK produces a growing portfolio of over 40 events, serving 14 different industries. EJK excels in creat-
ing global brand leading events, bringing companies together to network and generate business.

Contact Us: Monika Blume-Global Marketing & Sales E.J. Krause & Assoc. Inc.,
+49/211-61073-03, [email protected], www.ejkgermany.de

Source: www.asiawipes.com, www.ejkgermany.de

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2021
онлайн списание за ТЕКСТИЛ, ОБЛЕКЛО, КОЖИ И ТЕХНОЛОГИИ ISSN 2535-0447
online magazine for TEXTILES, CLOTHING, LEATHER AND TECHNOLOGY ISSN 2535-0447October 27-29

Given the impact COVID-19 has had across the globe, ANDTEX organizer E.J. Krause & Associates has decided
it’s in the best interest of all participants to reschedule the in-person event to a new date October 27 – 29,
2021 after consulting with the Thai authority, industry associations and key stakeholders. The rescheduled
event will still take place at BITEC in Bangkok, Thailand.
“Foreigners who have been vaccinated against Covid-19 will be welcomed with open arms by Thailand through
a new campaign set to launch in Q3 2021” as proposed by the president of the Tourism Council of Thailand to
the government recently. The new October dates of ANDTEX 2021 fits perfectly in Q4.
The pandemic has obviously made business very difficult for all of us. To help you gain more customers and
marketing opportunities, we will hold a virtual ANDTEX event in June this year. Exhibitors will be provided with
a free virtual booth. More details will come in the next few weeks.
For all exhibitors, participation will automatically be transferred to the October dates in 2021. We will be
working closely with you to provide all the necessary support for the change. Please follow the show website
for updates: www.andtex.com
COVID-19 pandemic has striking impacts on most industries. But many sectors in the nonwoven industry
remain strong. To support nonwoven industry players gain more customers and marketing opportunities, we
have added an ANDTEX Virtual event on June 2 - 4, will be invited to visit the virtual event. Exhibitors, buyers,
speakers and attendees will meet with each other digitally before the in-person ANDTEX event takes place in
October. More info the next weeks!
COVID-19 Can’t Stop Our Pace of Development!

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MICAM Milano - THE INTERNATIONAL FOOTWEAR SHOW
MICAM Milano- МЕЖДУНАРОДНО ШОУ ЗА ОБУВКИ
онлайн списание за ТЕКСТИЛ, ОБЛЕКЛО, КОЖИ И ТЕХНОЛОГИИ ISSN 2535-0447
online magazine for TEXTILES, CLOTHING, LEATHER AND TECHNOLOGY ISSN 2535-0447MICAM, THE INTERNATIONAL FOOTWEAR SHOW, IS READY TO GET STARTED AGAIN
IN MILAN FROM 19 TO 21 SEPTEMBER 2021

“The government’s recent announcement of a date for starting physical trade fair events again makes us cautiously
optimistic about the future,” says Assocalzaturifici and MICAM Chair Siro Badon. “Starting up this virtuous system
again, at the service of enterprises and the exports that result from trade fairs, means relaunching the whole industry
on world markets,” explains Badon. “We’re working on an edition concentrated in a new three-day formula rather
than the usual four days, guaranteeing perfect safety under protocols developed with Fiera Milano. MICAM is the first
business opportunity of decisive importance for our member companies, a privileged venue for negotiating orders and
opening up opportunities for growth and penetration of new markets. It is essential for relaunching a crucial sector
of Italian industry and our economy, a sector of production that suffered great difficulty in 2020 as a result of the
pandemic”.
While awaiting the resumption of physical trade fairs, MICAM has reinforced its digital event. MICAM Milano Digital
Show was held from 8 March to 8 May 2021 with the participation of more than 90 brands; over 5,000 buyers from
all over the world visited the platform and used it to conduct business. This digital tool will continue to be an essential
part of an advanced strategy for adaptation to the changes on the market requiring planning, organisation and an
ability to continue restocking and renewing the product assortment more frequently, rapidly presenting new products
to customers at various times throughout the year.
“We’re happy with the second edition of MICAM Milano Digital Show,” comments MICAM CEO Tommaso Cancellara.
“We implemented communication initiatives focusing buyers’ attention on the brands in the platform. More than 5000
buyers registered, visiting over 35,000 pages and generating almost 2,000 requests to connect with brands; traffic was
60% higher than in the previous edition. We noted a lot of interest in winter footwear, particularly boots and ankle
boots, but also on comfortable shoes and sports footwear, demonstrating that the pandemic has truly changed the
way we work and live our lives. In addition, the range of goods on offer was flanked by top-quality virtual content
thanks to MICAMX, MICAM’s laboratory for innovation in footwear. Over the eight weeks we broadcast more than
50 presentations based on the 4 pillars of MICAMX: sustainability, trends and materials, the future of retail, and art,
fashion heritage & future. MICAM Milano Digital Show will continue in the seasons to come, alongside the physical
trade fairs that are so important to our industry”.

MICAM Milano is coming up from 19 to 21 September 2021 at Fiera Milano Rho, where it will take place
in perfect safety. We look forward to seeing you there!

#micam
#strongertogether
#micamtales

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INNOVATIVE PRODUCT FROM MONTEIRO RIBAS
ИНОВАТИВЕН ПРОДУКТ ОТ MONTEIRO RIBAS
онлайн списание за ТЕКСТИЛ, ОБЛЕКЛО, КОЖИ И ТЕХНОЛОГИИ ISSN 2535-0447
online magazine for TEXTILES, CLOTHING, LEATHER AND TECHNOLOGY ISSN 2535-0447The pandemic has reminded us that footwear, the prima-industries requiring sanitary protection. It is also an attrib-
ry purpose of which is to protect our feet, may in fact be a ute that is attractive to companies manufacturing comfort
mechanism for the spread of micro-organisms. A number and orthopaedic footwear, and can add to the specifica-
of studies have supported the hypothesis that the soles of tions and customisations available to this segment. The
shoes are a vector for pathogen agents [1]. same applies to the manufacturers of outdoor footwear
When you walk on a contaminated surface, bacteria, fungi that anticipate the transition between long periods out-
and viruses can attach to the soles where they can sur- doors followed by a return to the location you wish to
vive for a long time, potentially spreading to whatever we protect.
touch as we walk.

According to the latest information from the World Health Finally, it is also a good option for normal consumers, who
Organisation, SARS-CoV-2 is essentially transmitted by can go to their local shoe shop and ask that their day-to-
close contact between people (less than 1.5 to 2 metres), day footwear have Anti-Micro uppers and soles.
and by small drops of respiratory aerosols (smaller than The Anti-Micro range is available in compact, highly abra-
5 μm in diameter).
However, the possi- sion-resist-
bility that the virus ant anti-
can be transmitted slip tread
indirectly cannot the plates,
discarded, particu- in lighter
larly via the contami- and more
nation of inert or in- flexible
animate surfaces. A anti-slip
compilation of more microcel-
recent studies con- lular plates
firms SARS-CoV-2 that are
can remain infec- available
tious on inanimate in differ-
polymeric surfaces ent thick-
from anything from nesses.
a few hours to sev-
eral days [2].

Anti-Micro is an elas- References:
tomeric material with proven anti-viral properties that is [1] Rashid T, VonVille HM, Hasan I, Garey KW. Shoe soles
used in the manufacture of soles. It was developed re- as a potential vector for pathogen transmission: a sys-
cently by Monteiro Footwear, part of the Monteiro Rib- tematic review. J Appl Microbiol. 2016 Nov;121(5):1223-
as group. Tests carried out in accordance with the ISO 1231. doi: 10.1111/jam.13250. Epub 2016 Sep 19. PMID:
21702:2019 standard for the measurement of antiviral 27495010.
activity on plastics and other non-porous surfaces con- https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/27495010/
firmed its anti-viral properties, with a 99.0% reduction in [2] Marquès M, Domingo JL. Contamination of inert sur-
the number of alfa-coronavirus particles. faces by SARS-CoV-2: Persistence, stability and infectivity.
The anti-viral agent is non-toxic to the user and the fact it A review. Environ Res. 2021;193:110559. doi:10.1016/j.
is embedded in the structure of the rubber means it never envres.2020.110559
loses its properties, not even as a result of the wear and h t t p s : / / w w w. n c b i . n l m . n i h . g o v / p m c / a r t i c l e s /
tear on the sole. PMC7706414/
This extraordinary characteristic means it is an interest-
ing option for engineering footwear for people most ex- Source: APICCAPS
posed to these risks, such as health professionals, those
employed in the food industry and agriculture and other

online www.tok-bg.org 130

4/2021

онлайн списание за ТЕКСТИЛ, ОБЛЕКЛО, КОЖИ И ТЕХНОЛОГИИ ISSN 2535-044715 .16 .17Covered Sectors
online magazine for TEXTILES, CLOTHING, LEATHER AND TECHNOLOGY ISSN 2535-0447
JUNE 2021 Accessories & Art
Bathroom & Kitchen
Oman Convention
& Exhibition Centre Carpets & Textiles
Sultanate of Oman Commercial Interiors & Fit-Out

Your Gateway to Décor & Furnishings
interior & exterior Doors & Windows
design solutions
Interior & Exterior Design
#idfoman | idfoman.com Lightings & Luxury Life Style

Outdoor Design & Build
Paint, Surfaces & Finishes

Tile & Stone
Wardrobes

MAIN & LANYARD SPONSOR GOLD SPONSOR Supporters

Organized by Member of For participation and more information please contact
+968 93236068 | [email protected]

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4/2021

B.I.G. YARNS UNVEILS ColorMind FOR CARPETS
B.I.G. YARNS ПРЕДСТАВЯ ColorMind ЗА КИЛИМИ

B.I.G. Yarns unveils ColorMind for ultimate design freedom for contract carpets
•Create truly unique yarn designs: with up to 6 colors from a large predefined color range and infinite combinations of
twisting & air entanglement
•Endlessly recyclable yarn solution - available in both standard PA6 and 75% recycled content EqoCycle PA6 yarn
•Efficient and flexible - all colors in stock to shorten lead-time; customized lot sizes
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B.I.G. Yarns brings inspirational design freedom to high-end loop-pile contract and automotive carpets with the unveil-
ing of ColorMind. The innovative yarn technology is B.I.G. Yarns’ first venture into a two steps yarn collection, offering
a unique solution for creating multi-color PA6 yarns for any carpet design.

Available from mid-June 2021 in both standard and EqoCycle 75% recycled content yarn, designers are invited to work
closely with B.I.G. Yarns experts to realize the designs they have always wanted. Combinations of variable levels of
twisting and air entanglement, using up to 6 colors at once, elevate design possibilities beyond current limitations.

The ColorMind color bank features predefined colors, always in stock, meaning short lead times. Manufacturers can
also benefit from customized lot sizes and bobbin length, creating even more flexibility and design freedom.

To preview a taster of the potential directions opened up for loop-pile carpets, B.I.G. Yarns has used the technology to
achieve its own “Optica” dot effect and “Illusion” wave effect as inspiration for customers’ design explorations.

“ColorMind offers never-seen yarn diversity to support a new level of design sophistication in high-end carpet seg-
ments. We’re very proud and excited to enter into two steps yarns with a solution offering something truly special,
the result of intensive dedication from our design and development teams,” comments Emmanuel Colchen, General
Manager, B.I.G. Yarns. “ColorMind combines our strengths in delivering high-performance, more sustainable yarns to
fit the evolving demands of these segments, underpinned by our expertise in color sequencing and color mixing. We’re
looking forward to exciting collaborations and innovative, eye-catching designs for future loop-pile carpets.”

ColorMind PA6 yarns are based on a unique Solution Dyed Nylon yarn and are suitable for Class 33 certification (heavy
commercial use). The EqoCycle yarn version is mainly based on post-industrial waste and supports contract and auto-
motive carpet manufacturers with a drop-in circular solution to reduce the ecological footprint of their end carpets.

For more information at: www.colormindyarns.com

Source and Images: www.beaulieuyarns.com

online www.tok-bg.org 132

4/2021

онлайн списание за ТЕКСТИЛ, ОБЛЕКЛО, КОЖИ И ТЕХНОЛОГИИ ISSN 2535-0447Under The High Patronage of Mister the Minister of Industry and Mines
online magazine for TEXTILES, CLOTHING, LEATHER AND TECHNOLOGY ISSN 2535-0447
INTERNATIONAL FAIR

OF TEXTILE, APPAREL, LEATHER & EQUIPMENT

5th

Edition

01-02-03

MAR. 2022
CIC OF ALGIERS
ALGERIA

Spinning & Fabrics | Leather & Semi-Leather
Apparel | Shoe & Bag | Machines & Equipment

Home Textile | Accessories | Design & Print

ORGANIZER: Tel: +213 41 745 563 [email protected] CO-ORGANIZER
Mob: +213.560.188.651 www.textyle-expo.com

+213.560.187.651 Textyle-expo

online www.tok-bg.org 133

4/2021

HOHENSTEIN: ORGANIC COTTON
HOHENSTEIN: ОРГАНИЧЕН ПАМУК
онлайн списание за ТЕКСТИЛ, ОБЛЕКЛО, КОЖИ И ТЕХНОЛОГИИ ISSN 2535-0447
online magazine for TEXTILES, CLOTHING, LEATHER AND TECHNOLOGY ISSN 2535-0447Organic Cotton, with confidence of no geneticcordance with the protocol’s requirements, including the
engineering. German testing service provider Hohenstein.
Hohenstein is one of only a few testing laboratories However, the Hohenstein experts have also developed
worldwide accredited to ISO 17025 for the ISO/IWA their own molecular biological detection systems in order
32:2019 protocol. to be able to test genetically modified cotton at all criti-
cal points along the entire value chain - from raw cotton
to yarns and fabrics to finished end products. Once we
have been able to extract DNA, the screening allows full
traceability throughout the textile chain with clear yes/no
statements about GMO-free cotton or textiles. As a mem-
ber institute of the OEKO-TEX® Association, Hohenstein
also screens textiles for genetically modified organisms as
part of the STANDARD 100 by OEKO-TEX® certification. If
the requirements are met, the articles can be advertised
here with the claims “organic cotton”, “biological cotton”
or “GMO not detectable”.

Manufacturers, brands
and retailers, but also cer-
Manufacturers, brands and retailers, as well as certifica- tification organisations,
tion organisations, benefit from complete analytical evi- benefit from complete
dence right through to the end product: consumers can analytical evidence all the
way to the end product:
be confident that no genetically modified cotton has consumers can be confi-
been detected in the articles they buy. © Hohenstein

Textiles without genetic engineering - when it comes to dent that no genetically
this concern, more and more consumers are turning to or- modified cotton could be
ganic cotton and are happy to accept higher prices for it. detected in the articles
This is because the cultivation of organic cotton requires they buy. This is because
the renunciation of genetically modified seeds as well as up to now most organic
chemical pesticides and fertilisers. Nevertheless, genetic certifications either do
modifications are found time and again in textiles that not include any obliga- Textiles without genetic
are actually labelled with the relevant organic labels. The tory laboratory tests at all engineering - with this
conceivable causes of contamination of organic cotton by or only random sample concern, more and more
genetic modifications are complex and extend along the tests on cotton seeds. consumers are turning
entire value chain. The textile testing service provider Two steps to 100 percent to organic cotton and are
Hohenstein is currently one of five laboratories in Europe certainty - Hohenstein happy to accept higher
that carries out accredited testing of textiles for geneti- GMO tests are carried out prices for it. © Hohenstein
cally modified organisms (GMO) in accordance with the as follows:

ISO/IWA 32:2019 protocol. The sample is shredded and the cotton fibres are broken

The protocol was developed by the International Or- down mechanically and enzymatically. The genetic mate-
ganisation for Standardisation (ISO) as an International rial (DNA) is isolated from the fibre and purified in a multi-
Workshop Agreement (IWA) on the initiative of Global Or- stage process.
ganic Textile Standard (GOTS), Organic Cotton Accelerator A genetic modification exists if specific target sequences
(OCA) and Textile Exchange. The aim is to be able to apply (marker genes) are present in the DNA. These can be de-
an official, standardised GMO testing protocol for textiles tected by molecular biology. Control reactions are used
from organic cultivation. According to this, all organic cot- to detect unmodified cotton DNA and to exclude false-
ton must be free of genetic engineering, whereas conven- negative results.

tional cotton permits the use of genetic engineering. In More information:
mid-February 2021, the initiators of the ISO/IWA 32:2019 www.hohenstein.com/gmo-testing­­
protocol published an overview of the 14 testing laborato-
ries worldwide that are permitted to carry out tests in ac- Source: www.hohenstein.com

online www.tok-bg.org 134

4/2021

STAHL LAUNCHES NUVERA® BREAKTHROUGH RENEWABLE
CARBON POLYURETHANES RANGE 

STAHL ПРЕДСТАВЯ ПРОБИВНА ГАМА NUVERA®
ОТ ВЪЗОБНОВЯЕМИ ВЪГЛЕРОДНИ ПОЛИУРЕТАНИ

Stahl, an active proponent of responsible chemistry, has launched a new range of renewable carbon-based polyure-
thanes. Called NuVera®, they replace petroleum-based chemicals with renewable alternatives, enabling manufactur-
ers of fashion, footwear and upholstery and many other consumer products to significantly reduce their environmental
footprint. 
онлайн списание за ТЕКСТИЛ, ОБЛЕКЛО, КОЖИ И ТЕХНОЛОГИИ ISSN 2535-0447
online magazine for TEXTILES, CLOTHING, LEATHER AND TECHNOLOGY ISSN 2535-0447
For the development of Stahl’s NuVera® range, the company initiated collaborations with key development partners
with the goal to create renewable carbon based building blocks, which until now have not been available commercial-
ly. These novel building blocks allow the development of biomass-based and/or captured carbon-based polyurethane
polymers.

“As a founding member of the Renewable Carbon Initiative, Stahl has committed to reducing the environmental impact
of our industry by developing renewable carbon-based solutions”, says Uwe Siebgens, Group Director Performance
Coatings & Polymers. “With the launch of our breakthrough NuVera® range, we are accelerating the transition to more
sustainable material solutions, enabling manufacturers to meet their customers’ demands for high-quality, sustainably
produced products.”

The NuVera® range
Stahl NuVera® products are derived from plant-based biomass such as vegetable oils or sugars. Alternatively, they can
also be made from a third renewable raw material category – captured carbon – in which CO2 released from industrial
processes is captured and used as a feedstock for producing polymeric building blocks.
NuVera® products can be used in a variety of coating applications, including pre-skin and top-coat formulations, PUD
resins, adhesives and basecoats. The range currently comprises four polyurethane resin binders that are available as
co-solvent-free water-based dispersions. Stahl is currently developing new products, including a high-solid (solvent-
less) and crosslinkers, to strengthen the NuVera® portfolio. All NuVera® products comply with the latest standards and
regulations, including the ZDHC Version 2.0 Manufacturing Restricted Substances List (MRSL).

Commercial availability of Stahl’s NuVera® range is expected in the second half of the second quarter 2021. For more
information on Stahl's NuVera® range, please visit the www.stahl.com

online www.tok-bg.org Source: www.stahl.com
135

4/2021

онлайн списание за ТЕКСТИЛ, ОБЛЕКЛО, КОЖИ И ТЕХНОЛОГИИ ISSN 2535-04475th International Dyestuff, Pigments, Textile Chemicals, Digital
online magazine for TEXTILES, CLOTHING, LEATHER AND TECHNOLOGY ISSN 2535-0447Textile Printing, Dye and Technologies Exhibition

24 - 26 November 2022

Istanbul Expo Center

www.interdyeprinting.com

In cooperation with Organiser Supporter Media Partners

THIS FAIR IS ORGANIZED UNDER SUPERVISION OF TOBB (THE UNION OF CHAMBERS AND COMMODITY
EXCHANGES OF TURKEY) IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE LAW NO. 5174

online www.tok-bg.org 136

4/2021

INDA: NONWOVENS REPORT 2020
INDA: ДОКЛАД ЗА НЕТЪКАН ТЕКСТИЛ ПРЕЗ 2020 г.
онлайн списание за ТЕКСТИЛ, ОБЛЕКЛО, КОЖИ И ТЕХНОЛОГИИ ISSN 2535-0447
online magazine for TEXTILES, CLOTHING, LEATHER AND TECHNOLOGY ISSN 2535-0447IINDA, the Association of the Nonwovens Fabrics Indus- tion issues. As a result, the overall operating rate only in-
try, announces publication of the eighth edition of the creased one-percentage-point over 2020. Additionally, as
annual North American Nonwovens Supply Report for its the operating rate is based upon tonnage, the increased
members. The North American Nonwovens Industry Re- demand for lighter-weight materials – medical apparel
sponds to the Pandemic and fine-fiber meltblown – affected the total tonnage out-
Report Offers INDA Members Key Metrics to Assist in De- put, as some lines were running full-throughput of surface
cision Making area, but not tonnage.
Benchmarks North American Capacity, Production and North American imports and exports, in tonnage, in-
Operating Rates creased 51.2 percent and 14.2 percent respectively year-
over-year. Imports were led by China (+97,200 tonnes,
Based on extensive research, producer surveys and in- +121 percent) and India (+11,000 tonnes, +37 percent).
terviews with industry leaders, the report  provides an Even with the significant shifts in North American trade
overall view of North American supply, including the key dynamics, nonwovens tend to stay where they are pro-
metrics of capacity, production and operating rates, in ad- duced, with the net trade balance (imports less exports)
dition to regional trade, through the year 2020. The 72- accounting for less than ten percent of the region’s capac-
page report contains 36 figures and 11 tables, with two ity.
new figures this year.  
  “This is a great time to be in nonwovens,” said Brad Ka-
“One of INDA’s key services is to provide valuable data lil, Director of Market Intelligence & Economic Insights,
and actionable industry information to enhance deci- INDA. “We are in a business that is expanding faster than
sion making in our capital-intensive industry. This report the economy as production growth exceeded U.S. real
is  the  most complete and accurate portrayal for both GDP for the seventh consecutive year. Production growth
rolled goods for sale and also material produced for inter- also exceeded capacity growth for the fourth consecutive
nal consumption in North America. It also presents the in- year. The overall operating rate for the industry also im-
dustry operating rates in key areas; the essential element proved for the fourth consecutive year. Lastly – and most
for strategic planning and business investment decisions,” importantly – we are in a business that protects and im-
said Dave Rousse, INDA President.
proves people’s lives. This has been brought to the fore-
  front recently with the benefits of protective medical ap-
The report—and the quarterly  INDA Market Pulse  and parel, respirators, face masks, and disinfecting wipes, now
monthly Price Trends Summary—are provided to the ap- known by all. The nonwovens industry has responded to
proximately 375 INDA member companies and associates the pandemic and will continue to provide materials that
as part of their membership. The data gathered for this keep the surfaces we touch clean, make safe the air we
annual report serves as the foundation for the biannu- breathe, and provide a barrier to keep our bodies safe.”
al  North American Nonwovens Industry Outlook, which
was recently published in December of 2020.
 
Findings from this year’s Supply Report include:
In 2020, North American nonwoven capacity increased
to 5.552 million tonnes, a net increase of 0.7 percent (39 About INDA
thousand tonnes) over 2019. This growth figure accounts INDA, the Association of the Nonwoven Fabrics Industry,
for not only the addition of new lines, but also machine serves hundreds of member companies in the nonwo-
productivity increases and line closures to arrive at a net
increase  growth figure. In the last three years, 51 lines vens/engineered fabrics industry doing business globally.
have come online and 22 lines have been shut-down. Fur- Since 1968, INDA events have helped members connect,
thermore, as a result of the pandemic some of the new learn, innovate, and develop their businesses. INDA edu-
line additions planned for 2020 have shifted to 2021. cational courses, market data, test methods, consultancy,
Operating rates in 2020 were two-sides of the same coin, and issue advocacy help members succeed by providing
as some end-use markets were completely shut-down for them the information they need to better plan and ex-
a few months, notably building and vehicle construction, ecute their business strategies. INDA Media is the busi-
and other end-uses were operating full-out…if they could. ness-to-business publishing arm of INDA and publisher
Producers were challenged by workforce and transporta-
of International Fiber Journal and International Filtration
News, which reach a vast network of professionals who
employ fibers, filaments, and filtration systems to opti-
mize their application environments.
Source:  www.inda.org

online www.tok-bg.org 137

4/2021

ACTEEV PROTECT™ MASKS
ACTEEV PROTECT™ МАСКИ

Bunzl Distribution brings American antiviral technology to Mexico retailers.
US-made Acteev Protect™ masks have embedded zinc ion technology which deactivates many viruses and elimi-
nates bacteria.
Bunzl Distribution, a leading supplier of packaging, disposable supplies, and cleaning and safety products, has signed
on as the distributor in Mexico for Acteev Protect™  masks, made in the United States by polyamide manufacturer
Ascend Performance Materials. A global distributor, Bunzl provides supplies to supermarkets, food processing plants,
retailers and convenience stores in Mexico.
онлайн списание за ТЕКСТИЛ, ОБЛЕКЛО, КОЖИ И ТЕХНОЛОГИИ ISSN 2535-0447
online magazine for TEXTILES, CLOTHING, LEATHER AND TECHNOLOGY ISSN 2535-0447
Bunzl will distribute the Acteev Protect Nonwoven Mask, a reusable general purpose mask that features powerful
antiviral and antibacterial properties. Acteev technology embeds active zinc ions in a polymer matrix which destroys
microbes, deactivates many viruses and eliminates bacteria and fungi.
Recent testing on Acteev fabric completed at the University of Cambridge has demonstrated that Acteev technology
deactivates the virus that causes COVID-19, SARS-CoV-2, with greater than 99.9% efficacy. Ascend has submitted sev-
eral masks designs to the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency and the U.S. Food and Drug Administration to obtain
the appropriate regulatory clearances to make specific claims regarding the technology’s antiviral properties in the
United States.
Carlos Green, Director General of Bunzl de México, says the company is pleased to bring products featuring better
safety and protection to the Mexico market.
“Our customers are more focused than ever before on doing business safely, and Acteev masks offer an added level of
protection in the workplace,” he said. “We’re excited to offer our customers this premium product that provides some
of the best protection available.”
In addition to antiviral, antifungal and antibacterial protection, the washable, reusable masks are lightweight, breath-
able and odor-fighting, making them comfortable to wear during a long shift at work or for outdoor workout.

“Workers in industrial settings, such as chemical and food processing plants, and convenience stores and other retail
outlets deserve the right protection as they keep society and the economy moving in Mexico,” said Juan Toro, Ascend’s
principal business development leader for Acteev in the Americas. “We are proud to partner with Bunzl to help deliver
a reusable mask that provides both antiviral properties as well as an opportunity reduce the number of masks con-
sumed, saving the companies money.”
Acteev Protect shows promise for use beyond masks, according to Ascend. The technology was originally developed
for workout wear, and now the company is working textile applications ranging from gloves to scrubs to high-end ath-
leisure.
Bunzl has more than 100 warehouses serving grocery, retail, cleaning and healthcare businesses in North America.
With more than 6,500 employees and 400,000-plus supply items, their worldwide sales exceed $11 billion.

Acteev Protect masks are available for purchase at .https://www.bunzlmexico.mx/articulos-para-combatir-covid

Source: www.ascendmaterials.com and acteev.com

online www.tok-bg.org 138

4/2021

онлайн списание за ТЕКСТИЛ, ОБЛЕКЛО, КОЖИ И ТЕХНОЛОГИИ ISSN 2535-0447 Global Leather Innovation Summit 2021
online magazine for TEXTILES, CLOTHING, LEATHER AND TECHNOLOGY ISSN 2535-0447
As a traditional material, Leather is one the most widely •Consciousness Revolution-Achieving Sustainability in
used materials and most traded products globally. Leather Source
According to the data published by Statista, leather goods •Digital Technology- Advanced Leather Design on
market value(worldwide) will reach 271.21 billion U.S. Footwear Development
dollars in 2021. However, the trend of digitalization and •Material Intelligence and Customization during Product
environmental problems led this traditional industry on Creation of Automobile Seat
a road to innovation and transformation. Companies •……
involved in leather supply chain keep making efforts on
upgrading their business to accommodate the rapidly Guest Speakers:
changing market. With the outbreak of COVID-19 in •China Leather Industry Association
2020, the development of leather industry faces many •Alibaba Cloud
opportunities and challenges. New leather technologies •Haining Leather City
and the trend of marketing strategies are going to be the •Kering
main topics for us to discuss in this Summit. •One 4 Leather
•Clariant AG
Global Leather Innovation Summit 2021 will take place •VF
both ONLINE and in-person and bring together about •Mercedes-Benz
100+ leather industry experts and senior executives to •BCG
deeply analyze the impact of the international trade •……
environment on the development of the leather industry,
the innovation trend and policy, the change of business Time: June 3-4, 2021
model under COVID-19, and discuss hot topics such as Venue: Shanghai, China
sustainability, digital design, product innovation and Organizer: ECV International
digital manufacturing. In addition, this summit will
provide a reference and industry exchange platform We will provide:
for leather market through keynote speeches, group •Simultaneous interpretation device for 2-day conference
discussions and networking, to help the attendees get a •Brochure, recording materials
better understanding of leather industry development •five-star buffet lunch coupons, tea breaks and all
status and find business opportunity. refreshments

Highlights: Contact Us:
•The Overview of Global Leather Industry Innovation Ciking Zhao
Trend and Policy Tel: +86 21 8026 0707-803
•Under Pandemic-The New Development Model of E-Mail: [email protected]
Leather Industry during COVID-19
•Case Study-How Industrial Cluster Help the Development More details, please visit our official website:
of Luggage Industry
•Driving the Sustainability of Leather Industry through http://www.ecvinternational.com/event/en/
Chemical Innovation GlobalLeatherInnovationSummit
•Creative Interiors Leather Innovation Strategy for Brand
Value Enhance
•How New Standard of Leather Tannery Transforming the
Industry from Traditional to Technical

online www.tok-bg.org 139