THE YELLOW TANG - ZEBRASOMA FLAVESCENS
The Yellow Tang is one of the most popular of all saltwater fish species. The yellow tang comes
from the Hawaiian Islands and is one of the better marine surgeonfishes for a beginner with a
fully cycled aquarium. This tang is commonly carried at most saltwater pet shops and is
relatively inexpensive. They have a strikingly yellow color with white scalpel like blades at the
base of their tail fin. They can be fairly hardy in a saltwater aquarium that has completely
cycled. If you plan on keeping Yellow Tangs, they spend much of their time grazing for algae so
have plenty of live rock for them to graze on. They will also feed on dried algae or seaweed
attached to a lettuce clip. This tang (and tangs in general) requires highly oxygenated water so
make sure you have plenty of water surface agitation and/or air stones.
Use caution when netting a Yellow Tang because of the blades at the base of their tail fin. The
blades can easily get hooked into the net. If this happens, gently move the net back and forth in
the aquarium until the tang is released.
Like many marine species, you will have better results if you keep only one tang in your
aquarium because they will become territorial otherwise. They use the blade like appendages at
the base of their tales to slap at each other.
Tangs are especially susceptible to marine ich, which means that it's a good idea to house any
new Tangs in a quarantine tank for a couple of weeks before introducing them into your main
aquarium.
As of 2012 there is pending legislation that may make the export of Zebrasoma flavescens out
of Hawaii illegal. If this legislation becomes law it will impact the number available to stores and
drive the price up significantly.
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Yellow Tang Profile Facts and Care Information
Scientific Name : Zebrasoma flavescens
Common Names : Yellow Sailfin Tang, Lemon Surgeonfish, Yellow Surgeonfish
Care Level : Easy to Moderate, good for saltwater beginners with a fully cycled aquarium.
Life span : 5 - 7 years, possibly longer
Size : 7 - 8 inches (20 cm)
pH : 8 - 8.4
Temperature : 75°F - 80°F (24°C - 27°C)
Specific Gravity : 1.020 - 1.024
Origin / Habitat : South Pacific Ocean near Hawaii, Marshall and Wake Islands.
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Temperament / Behavior : It's best to keep only one tang in your aquarium because they can
become territorial with other tangs. They will usually play nicely with others (except tangs) in a
community tank setup.
Breeding / Mating / Reproduction : It's not very common for them to breed in captivity
Tank Size : 55 gallon minimum but will do much better in larger tanks - think 90 gallons plus to
allow for lots of swimming room.
Compatible Tank Mates : Avoid keeping them in an aquarium with other Tangs, especially
conspecifics or other Zebrasomas. May do ok with other tangs if introduced at the same time in
large tanks and provided with lots of swimming room.
Reef Tank Compatible? : This tang will do well in a marine reef tank setup. They can help
perform a small role in grazing some of the algae that may grow in a reef tank.
Disease : Saltwater Fish Disease - Diagnose, Symptoms and Treatment, a quarantine tank is a
must with this species.
Fish Food : Herbivore, have plenty of live rock and/or be prepared to give them dried seaweed
or dried algae using a lettuce clip. They will also accept flake, pellet foods and live foods.
Tank Region : All over
Gender : Difficult to determine, but the female may be larger than males of the same age.
Forum : Yellow Tang Forum
Author : Mike FishLore
References :
"Zebrasoma flavescens". FishBase. Ed. Ranier Froese and Daniel Pauly. November 2005 version.
N.p.: FishBase, 2005.
Fenner, R. M. (2001). The Conscientious Marine Aquarist, Commonsense Handbook for
Successful Saltwater Hobbyists. (3rd Printing). T.F.H. Publications.
Michael, S. W. (2001). Marine Fishes, 500+ Essential to Know Aquarium Species. T.F.H.
Publications.
Paletta, Michael (2001). The New Marine Aquarium, Step-by-step Setup and Stocking Guide.
T.F.H. Publications.
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TRIGGERFISH
BLUE THROAT TRIGGERFISH - XANTHICHTHYS AUROMARGINATUS
The Blue Throat Trigger fish goes also by the common names of Blue Chin Triggerfish and Gilded
Triggerfish. Blue Throat Triggerfish have gray bodies and the males sport the blue throat and
have yellow along the fin borders whereas the females lack the blue throat and yellow
bordering on the fins. See the male/female picture below.
The Blue Throat Triggerfish is considered to be one of the least aggressive of the triggers and
that is one of the reasons for their popularity in the aquarium trade. Cost wise they go
anywhere from $40 to $60 with the males usually being slightly more expensive. These triggers
can be considered quite hardy and are usually easy to get eating. Standard saltwater aquarium
foods like a good pellet food supplemented with frozen foods will do nicely.
In the wild the Blue Throat Triggerfish likes to eat copepods so if you have a refugium that has
lots of these pods your triggers will love you for it. They sometimes go after smaller shrimps and
hermit crabs. I'm not sure if they are interested in eating them (never witnessed it) or just
playing with them. They are very personable, seriously. The triggers remind me of the
freshwater oscars with their personalities. I've kept a male/female blue jaw duo for some time
now and they always greet me when I come to the front of the tank, begging for food. One
interesting thing about them is that they like to lock themselves into a rock to bunk down for
the night, usually upside down. They also like to make a grunting or clicking sound
(infrequently) at night that is audible outside the tank.
A good tight fitting hood is needed because if they get spooked they might do some carpet
surfing.
Blue Throat Trigger Picture
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Blue Throat Triggerfish Profile Facts and Care Information
Scientific Name : Xanthichthys auromarginatus
Common Names : Blue Throat Triggerfish, Blue Jaw Triggerfish, Blue Chin Triggerfish
Care Level : Easy to moderate
Size : Up to 12 inches (30 cm)
Blue Throat Triggerfish Life span : 8 years, likely longer
pH : 8.1 - 8.4
Temperature : 76°F - 82°F (24°C - 28°C)
Specific Gravity : 1.021 - 1.025
Carbonate Hardness (dKH) : 8 - 12°
Origin / Habitat : Indo-Pacific, East Africa to Hawaii
Temperament / Behavior : For triggers, these could be considered one of the more docile but
they can still act like most other triggers occasionally.
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Blue Throat Triggerfish Breeding / Mating / Reproduction : they are nest builders and males will
guard the eggs until they hatch. Not much info on actual breeding attempts in the home
aquarium.
Tank Size : 120 gallon minimum
Compatible Tank Mates : These triggers may become more aggressive as they grow. Similar
sized species should do fine with the Blue Throat Trigger but watch the smaller shrimps and
other crustaceans.
Fish Disease : Saltwater Fish Disease Section. These triggers are fairly hardy , but
always Quarantine new fish!
Diet / Fish Food : Primary diet in the wild is copepods. They are voracious eaters though and will
go after nearly everything you put in the tank. Get a good pellet (new life spectrum for
example) food, supplement with defrosted frozen foods (rod's foods for example) and they will
do well. They also will eat dry seaweed if you have tangs in the tank with them and they tend to
pull off the veggie clip from the tank wall.
Tank Region : All over, but like to cruise the top of the tank a lot
Gender : This is one of the easier species to identify male from female. Males will have the blue
throat (or chin if you prefer) and their fins will be outlined in yellow. Females lack the blue
throat and yellow outlined fins
Forum : Triggerfish Forum
Author : Mike FishLore
References :
"Xanthichthys auromarginatus". FishBase. Ed. Ranier Froese and Daniel Pauly. November 2005
version.
Michael, S. W. (2001). Marine Fishes, 500+ Essential to Know Aquarium Species. T.F.H.
Publications.
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CLOWN TRIGGERFISH - BALISTOIDES CONSPICILLUM
The Clown Triggerfish is one of the more popular saltwater fish species but you really need the
right aquarium set up to keep them long term. As far as personality goes the Clown Triggerfish
is a very enjoyable fish to watch. The common name of this trigger is quite accurate given their
general personality. They can usually be bought locally or online anywhere from $80 to $200
dollars depending on the size of the trigger.
The Clown Triggerfish can be very territorial and it's gets worse the older and bigger they get.
They are pretty much not afraid of anything it seems once they reach around 5 or 6 inches in
size. When they are smaller they may be a bit more reclusive and will appreciate having hiding
spots and places to lock into at night with their dorsal fins. If do plan on keeping them with
moderately aggressive species (like saltwater tangs) introduce the trigger last and get it on the
small side (2 inches or so) and let it grow up with the other fish. Give them a big tank at least
120 gallons in size and plan on getting them into something much bigger as they grow up.
The Clown Triggerfish is a really good eater for the most part. They will accept most everything
that you put into the tank but you need to give them a varied diet of vitamin enriched, fresh,
meaty, marine origin type foods. Clams on the half shell will likely be devoured before they
even reach the bottom of tank. Krill, small pieces of silver sides, feeder shrimps, etc. It can be
fun to watch them eat but it's not much fun to watch them chow down on your $5 hermit
crabs! Don't keep them with ornamental crabs and shrimp unless you don't mind them
becoming lunch for your trigger.
Disease wise they are considered quite hardy but do a slow drip acclimation over an hour or so
upon introduction and give them a good diet of the proper foods.
Clown Triggerfish Picture
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Photo Credit: Clark Anderson/Aquaimages
Clown Triggerfish Profile Facts and Care Information
Scientific Name : Balistoides conspicillum
Common Names : Clown Triggerfish, Baliste Clown,
Care Level : Easy to moderate
Size : Up to 19 inches (50 cm)
Clown Triggerfish Life span : 8 years, likely much longer
pH : 8.1 - 8.4
Temperature : 76°F - 82°F (24°C - 28°C)
Specific Gravity : 1.021 - 1.025
Carbonate Hardness (dKH) : 8 - 12°
Origin / Habitat : Indo-Pacific, East and South Africa. Often found near outer reef edges and
steep drop-offs swimming in the open. They are often found cruising around alone and not
often found in pairs or schools.
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Temperament / Behavior : This is one of the more aggressive of the triggerfish species. The
Clown Triggerfish will rearrange aquarium decorations, live rock and knock over prized corals.
Keep this in mind when setting up any rock formations in the tank to prevent rock from crashing
down into the tank bottom. They are not reef safe since they are known to knock over corals
and sample invertebrates like snails and hermit crabs. As they mature they often get more
aggressive too.
Clown Triggerfish Breeding / Mating / Reproduction : they are nest builders and males will guard
the eggs waiting for them to hatch. A recent issue of CORAL magazine (March/April 2012) had a
great article on how the Crosshatch Trigger has been successfully bred in an aquarium. They
need some really tiny foods and the author of that breeding article explains the feeding size
ratio and how he was able to determine proper food sizes.
Tank Size : 120 gallon minimum - 120 gallon and bigger for larger adult clown triggers.
Compatible Tank Mates : Need to be kept in larger and more aggressive type displays. It's not
considered reef tank safe because of it's propensity to rearrange the tank and because they will
munch on crustaceans and other inverts.
Fish Disease : Saltwater Fish Disease Triggers in general are fairly hardy , but
always Quarantine new fish!
Diet / Fish Food : In the ocean they mostly feed on sea urchins, crabs and other inverts. They
will eat most fish foods that are put into the tank. Give them a well balanced diet of marine
origin meaty foods like clams on the half shell, mussels, krill, silver sides, etc.
Tank Region : All over
Gender : No known obvious external differences between the male and female
Forum : Triggerfish Forum
Author : By Mike FishLore
References :
"Balistoides conspicillum". FishBase. Ed. Ranier Froese and Daniel Pauly. November 2005
version. N.p.: FishBase, 2005.
Michael, S. W. (2001). Marine Fishes, 500+ Essential to Know Aquarium Species. T.F.H.
Publications.
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NIGER TRIGGERFISH - ODONUS NIGER
The Niger Triggerfish has a few different common names like the Red Tooth Triggerfish and the
Black Triggerfish. The Niger Trigger's colors can look quite different depending on the lights
they are under. Sometimes they will look teal green under high output lighting and under
subdued lighting they look almost black. In the ocean they form schools to feed on zooplankton
and sponges and are found on the seaward side of coral reefs (re.fishbase).
The Niger Triggerfish can get to be over 12 inches (30 cm) with some of the biggest being found
in the ocean up to 18 inches (46 cm)! Given their potential adult size not many home aquariums
are big enough to keep them in groups. Even keeping just one though you need at least a 180
gallon fish tank.
The Niger Triggerfish has a reputation amongst hobbyists as being one of the less aggressive
triggerfish but they are still triggers and each fish can be different. One may be easy going and
the next could be quite the terror. As juveniles they will need lots of hiding places to help make
them feel secure. As they get bigger, they often get bolder and more aggressive.
This triggerfish will go after and eat nearly all foods offered. Lots of saltwater origin meaty
foods, along with a good pellet type food for omnivores would be good. They may even eat
seaweed (sea veggies) you put in the tank for other species too.
Niger Trigger Picture
Niger Triggerfish Profile Facts and Care Information
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Scientific Name : Odonus niger
Common Names : Niger Triggerfish, Red Tooth Triggerfish, Black Triggerfish
Fish Care Level : Easy to moderate
Size : Up to 18 inches (46 cm), usually found in the ocean around 12 inches (30 cm)
Niger Triggerfish Life span : 10 years, likely longer
pH : 8.1 - 8.4
Temperature : 76°F - 82°F (24°C - 28°C)
Specific Gravity : 1.021 - 1.025
Carbonate Hardness (dKH) : 8 - 12°
Origin / Habitat : Indo-Pacific, South Africa, Red Sea, Great Barrier Reef Australia, New Caledonia
Temperament / Behavior : In the ocean they can form large schools but given the size of most
home aquariums this isn't going to be feasible to recreate. They may fight with other triggers
but should do fine with similarly sized fish such as tangs. The bigger they get, the more
aggressive they get.
Niger Triggerfish Breeding / Mating / Reproduction : these triggerfish are nest builders and males
will guard the eggs waiting for them to hatch. Now that appropriately sized foods have been
found to feed the larvae it hopefully will become more common place to see captive raised
triggers for sale in the near future.
Tank Size : 180 gallon minimum for one Niger Triggerfish, much larger for keeping multiples.
Compatible Tank Mates : The Niger Trigger is not as aggressive as some of the other triggers but
it does get big and the bigger it gets the more aggressive it becomes. I wouldn't keep them in a
reef tank, though some hobbyists do. Inverts such as crabs and shrimps may become food for
this trigger.
Fish Disease : Saltwater Fish Disease Section. These triggers are hardy, but Quarantine and even
consider doing a freshwater, pH adjusted dip before introducing them to your display.
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Diet / Fish Food : Niger Triggerfish form large schools in the ocean to feed on zooplankton. In
the home aquarium you can give them nearly anything and they will go after it. Being
omnivores you should try to give them a varied diet of marine origin meaty foods like krill,
clams on the half shell, thawed mysis, brine, etc. Rod's marine omnivore foods are good and
have a lot of different foods in it.
Tank Region : All over
Gender : Don't know of any external characteristics to be used to identify male from female.
Forum : Triggerfish Forum
Author : Mike FishLore
References / Recommended Reading :
"Odonus niger". FishBase. Ed. Ranier Froese and Daniel Pauly. November 2005 version. N.p.:
FishBase, 2005.
Michael, S. W. (2001). Marine Fishes, 500+ Essential to Know Aquarium Species. T.F.H.
Publications.
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PICASSO TRIGGERFISH - RHINECANTHUS ACULEATUS
In Hawaii the Picasso Triggerfish is the state fish and known as Humuhumunukunuku apua'a.
Say that three times fast. Named after the famous Spanish painter, the Picasso Triggerfish has
some truly remarkable colors and patterns on its body. This triggerfish is one of the easier going
of the trigger fishes but it can still become dangerous in a tank full of smaller aquarium fish and
invertebrates. You will want to provide a larger tank (75 gallon minimum) with plenty of hiding
places to help reduce the aggressiveness that may well up inside this fish if it feels threatened.
They can become very territorial if kept in a tank that is too small. Keep them in a larger tank
with some larger tank mates and it should co-exist peacefully.
The Picasso Triggerfish can sometimes be the Bull in the China Shop. As they roam around, they
may knock over live rock or other ornaments in the tank.
Feed your Picasso Triggerfish 2 or 3 times a day and provide a varied diet of frozen and live
foods. They may go after fish flakes and pellets. It's important to give them small frequent
feedings to prevent malnutrition and fading colors.
The Picasso triggers are susceptible to most saltwater fish disease and respond well to most of
the standard medicines and treatments. Quarantine any new arrivals for a period of 2 - 3 weeks
before introducing them into your main tank.
One last note, be careful when placing your hand in a tank with Triggerfish. They have a mouth
full of teeth and may bite if they feel threatened.
Picasso Triggerfish Picture
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Picasso Triggerfish Profile Facts and Care Information
Scientific Name : Rhinecanthus aculeatus
Common Names : Humuhumu Triggerfish, Blackbar Triggerfish, Prickly, Kaputput, White Banded
Triggerfish, White Barred Triggerfish
Care Level : Easy to moderate
Size : Up to 10 inches (25 cm)
Life span : 5 - 10 years
pH : 8.1 - 8.4
Temperature : 76°F - 82°F (24°C - 28°C)
Specific Gravity : 1.021 - 1.025
Carbonate Hardness (dKH) : 8 - 12°
Origin / Habitat : Indo-Pacific, Tahiti
Temperament / Behavior : Can be peaceful if given a large tank and should get along with larger
marine specimens. It may eat smaller fish. Provide plenty of hiding spaces (live rock).
Breeding / Mating / Reproduction : One male will serve multiple females. The female will guard
the eggs until they hatch. In the wild, once they hatch they are on their own. To our knowledge
these have not been tank raised yet.
Tank Size : 75 gallon minimum, the more space it has the less aggressive it should be.
Compatible Tank Mates : Not suitable for a reef tank since they enjoy munching on crustaceans
and other small invertebrates. Keep them with larger, more aggressive fish.
Fish Disease : Saltwater Fish Disease Section. Always Quarantine new arrivals!
Diet / Fish Food : Primay diet in the wild is crustaceans and small shrimp. They can be trained to
eat frozen foods. Give them a high quality and a varied diet. Frozen meaty foods and frozen
foods including marine algae would be good supplements. Feed at least 2 times per day.
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Tank Region : All over
Gender : Difficult to determine, but males may be larger than females of the same age.
Forum : Triggerfish Forum
Author : Mike FishLore
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PINK TAIL TRIGGERFISH - MELICHTHYS VIDUA
The Pink Tail Triggerfish has a green body with mustard yellow like shading or under tones
depending on the lights they are under. Sometimes the Pink Tail Triggerfish can look much
darker under subdued lighting. They are found all over the Indo-Pacific and get to be about 15
inches (40 cm). Given their potential adult size you are going to need at least a 180 gallon (680
liters) aquarium or larger to keep this triggerfish long term.
The Pink Tail Trigger is just like other triggers when it comes to modifying the rock work to their
liking. Keep this in mind if you have any loose fitting rocks to prevent damage to your fish tank,
corals and fish. It is not a good idea to keep them with invertebrates such as shrimps, snails and
crabs because they tend to view them like we view chips and salsa, especially as they get bigger.
Feeding them is usually a breeze since they can be aggressive eaters. Give them a good pellet
fish food and throw in some variety a few times a week by offering meaty type foods like
thawed meaty marine foods, clams on the half shell, krill, mysis shrimp, chopped up fresh fish,
etc. They may also eat seaweed if you're offering it to your tangs.
Like so many other triggerfish, the Pink Tail Trigger has a good personality but you need to keep
them in larger setups with appropriately sized tank mates. When they are small they tend to be
quite shy so give them plenty of rock work to hide in. They also like to lock themselves into
rocks at night to sleep. Give them a high quality diet and they will be with you for a long time.
Pink Tail Triggerfish Picture
Pink Tail Triggerfish Profile Facts and Care Information
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Scientific Name : Melichthys vidua
Common Names : Pink Tail Triggerfish, White Tailed Triggerfish
Care Level : Easy to moderate
Size : Up to 15 inches (40 cm)
Pink Tail Triggerfish Life span : 10 years or longer
pH : 8.1 - 8.4
Temperature : 76°F - 82°F (24°C - 28°C)
Specific Gravity : 1.021 - 1.025
Carbonate Hardness (dKH) : 8 - 12°
Origin / Habitat : Indo-Pacific, East Africa to Hawaii, Marquesas and Tuamoto islands
Temperament / Behavior : these triggers are considered moderately aggressive when compared
to other triggerfish.
Breeding / Mating / Reproduction : they form pairs and they are nest builders and egg guarders.
Not sure of any home breeding success stories but that may begin to change now that a
suitable sized food has been found to rear larvae.
Tank Size : 180 gallon minimum (680 liters)
Compatible Tank Mates : Similar sized and semi-aggressive species that can hold their own.
Fish Disease : Saltwater Fish Disease Section. Triggers are fairly hardy , but
always Quarantine new arrivals!
Diet / Fish Food : They eat small fish, crustaceans, algae and detritus. A fortified and well
balanced pellet can serve as their main diet and mix in fresh or thawed marine origin meaty
type foods.
Tank Region : All over the tank.
Gender : Not sure how to tell gender from external characteristics.
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Forum : Triggerfish Forum
Author : Mike FishLore
References :
"Melichthys vidua". FishBase. Ed. Ranier Froese and Daniel Pauly. November 2005 version.
Michael, S. W. (2001). Marine Fishes, 500+ Essential to Know Aquarium Species. T.F.H.
Publications.
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WRASSES
PENCIL WRASSE (PSEUDOJULOIDES CERACINUS)
The Pencil Wrasse is found in the Indo-Pacific in lagoons and areas of high coral growth. Male
Pencil Wrasses are a blue green color and have two horizontal stripes of blue and yellow.
Females or primary phase specimens are pink with yellow fins. One male can be kept with
multiple females in the same tank but watch for aggression. They may not fair very well with
other wrasse species either. It's hit or miss with these pencil wrasses when it comes to keeping
them with clams. Some have great success while other hobbyists report that they have caught
them nipping at their high dollar clams. Carpet surfer alert! They are excellent jumpers so a
good fitting hood or canopy is needed.
Other than being a beautiful fish, these wrasses might (emphasis on might) also be able provide
a great service to SPS reef tank keepers. Montipora corals have a very troublesome pest called
commonly called the "Monti Eating Nudibranch" that can decimate a tank full of montipora
capricornis in no time at all. It can be very difficult to keep these pests under control especially
if you have large pieces that are difficult or impossible to remove from your reef tank. Several
hobbyists over the years have claimed that these pencil wrasses will eat these monti eating
nudibranches. Other hobbyists have tried them with less than stellar results when it comes to
eating these nudibranches. It may be worth a try if your tank has these nudis but realize that
you will always probably have these pests if you can't get them out to dip since there is not
much evidence of any natural predators that eat the eggs of the nudis. If you frag your montis
let the people you are sharing frags with know that you've had this problem so they can dip the
frag before introducing it to their tank. Always quarantine all new corals and learn from your
fellow hobbyists. An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.
However, zoanthid keepers have had better luck with them when it comes to eating the
zoanthid nudis which is also quite the annoying pest. Fireworms are also on the pencil wrasse
menu.
Feeding the Pencil Wrasse is the challenge, especially new arrivals. They do not ship very well
and need a period of adjustment with lots of pampering. Offer them meaty foods such as mysis
and brine shrimp 2 or 3 times per day. Aquarists with lots of long established live rock or
established refugiums will have better chances of keeping them long term due to the amount of
pods that they can pick at throughout the day. They also need a sand bed at least 2 inches deep
so they can burrow when they feel threatened. Live rock with lots of hiding places works well
too.
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Overall, they are not really for the less experienced hobbyists. It goes without saying, but make
sure your tank is fully cycled and that you have top notch water and a suitable tank (tank mates,
inverts, etc) before you buy a pencil wrasse.
Wrasse Pictures
Pencil Wrasse Profile Facts and Care Information
Scientific Name : Pseudojuloides ceracinus
Common Names : Pencil Wrasse, Smalltail Wrasse
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Care Level : Difficult - can be difficult to feed or get a feeding response from newly acquired
specimens
Life span : 7 years, likely longer
Size : Up to 5 inches (12 cm)
pH : 8.1 - 8.4
Temperature : 75°F - 79°F (24°C - 26°C)
Specific Gravity : 1.023 - 1.025
Origin / Habitat : Hawaii, Indo-Pacific - Found at depths of 2 to 60 meters (6 to 200 feet) in
lagoons and areas of high coral concentrations.
Temperament / Behavior : May attack shrimps, possibly snails and males my fight with other
males of the same species. One male can be kept with multiple females.
Breeding / Mating / Reproduction : As of this time (2011) and to our knowledge this species has
not been bred in aquariums.
Tank Size : 30 gallon minimum
Compatible Tank Mates : Should do well with other species but may fight with other wrasses.
Use caution when keeping them with invertebrates such as shrimps, hermit crabs and clams. It's
not widely documented that they will attack clams but, as always, be prepared to remove them
if they are caught nipping your prized clams.
Reef Tank Compatible? : Could be considered with caution.
Pencil Wrasse Disease : Saltwater Fish Disease - Diagnose, Symptoms and Treatment. These
wrasses are not very good shippers. Ich (white spot - cryptocaryon) is common. High quality
saltwater via Quarantine is needed upon introduction.
Diet / Fish Food : This is the hard part about keeping them. They can be very difficult to start
eating anything you give them. Offer foods multiple times per day (2 to 3 small feedings at
least) upon introduction. If they are eating after acclimation then 1 to 2 feedings per day of
brine and mysis shrimp and/or the frozen meaty preparations for saltwater fish. I've tried
pellets and flakes (and will continue to do so) but they just laugh at me.
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Tank Region : Hides a lot and swims near the bottom or near cover.
Gender : Males are green with a blue tint and have two horizontal stripes with the top stripe
blue and the bottom stripe yellow. Females or primary phase pencil wrasses are a pinkish
orange with yellow fins.
Similar Species : Wrasse Species
Harlequin Tuskfish
Six Line Wrasse
White Belly Wrasse
Author : Mike FishLore
References :
"Pseudojuloides ceracinus". FishBase. Ed. Ranier Froese and Daniel Pauly. November 2005
version. N.p.: FishBase, 2005.
Michael, S. W. (2001). Marine Fishes, 500+ Essential to Know Aquarium Species. T.F.H.
Publications.
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SIX LINE WRASSE - PSEUDOCHEILINUS HEXATAENIA
The Six Line Wrasse (Pseudocheilinus hexataenia) is one of the wrasses that can be considered
reef safe. The Six Line Wrasse should leave your corals, clams, and most other invertebrates
alone. They may get a little rowdy with new fish introduced to the tank, but more on that later.
They have really nice coloring and markings. They have a purple/blue body with six horizontal
yellow/orange lines. The caudal fin is often a shade of green with hints of yellow. The coloration
on males may become even more vibrant when they are ready to spawn.
The Six Line Wrasse can be quite hardy if shipped and acclimated properly but they are known
as "poor shippers" and online merchants may not reimburse you if this fish dies in transport. As
always, it's a good idea to take your time and slowly acclimate your sixlined wrasse into your
quarantine tank and keep them there for several weeks so you can get them eating and so you
can monitor them for signs of disease. Getting them out of a tank full of live rock is not fun. Use
this time while they are in quarantine to give them highly nutritious fish foods to help them
overcome the stresses of shipping. If after several weeks in QT and you see no signs of disease
you can slowly acclimate them into your display tank.
Behaviorally they may be kept in multiples in larger tanks but may get aggressive with other six
line wrasses in smaller tanks. Keeping them with other wrasse species is not recommended in
smaller tanks (like less than 100 gallons). They should do fine with other marine fish species
though but each fish can be different and you'll need to watch closely when first introducing
them to your tank. It is recommended that they are one of the last species introduced to your
tank to help limit aggression.
Feeding wise, the Six Line Wrasse is not all that picky and they should eat standard marine fish
foods. They also will pick at the live rock in between meals. Six lines can also be used to help
control the pyramidellid snails that are known to prey on your prized saltwater clams.
Six Line Wrasse Pictures
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Six Line Wrasse Profile Facts and Care Information
Scientific Name : Pseudocheilinus hexataenia
Common Names : Six Line Wrasse, Six Stripe Wrasse, Sixline Wrasse
Care Level : Easy
Life span : 5 or more years
Size : 3 inches (8 cm)
Water Parameters : ph: 8.1 - 8.4, Temperature: 70°F - 80°F (21°C - 27°C), Specific Gravity: 1.020
- 1.025, dKH: 8 - 12°
Origin / Habitat : Red Sea, Indo-Pacific
Six Line Wrasse Temperament / Behavior : They can be peaceful if you introduce them last to
your aquarium. They are considered semi-aggressive since they may scrap with other wrasses
and similar looking tank mates.
Six Line Wrasse Breeding / Mating / Reproduction : Although spawnings have been reported, we
don't believe they've been successfully raised in captivity.
Tank Size : 20 gallon minimum
Six Line Wrasse Compatible Tank Mates : Avoid mixing them in with other wrasses but if you do,
watch closely for signs of aggression between the wrasses. Although they are considered one of
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the more peaceful species of wrasses, they may also harass other tank mates such as grammas,
gobies, pseudochromis, etc. If you wait to introduce them last into your tank you may have a
better experience with keeping them.
Reef Tank Compatible? : Considered reef safe in that they should leave your corals and other
beneficial invertebrates alone. They may even act as cleaners (albeit rarely) on larger fish
species in the tank. They may even help control pyramidellid snail populations if you're having
problems with these snails and your clams.
Fish Disease : Saltwater Fish Disease - Diagnose, Symptoms and Treatment
Diet / Fish Food : Carnivorous, they will pick at the live rock in between feedings looking for tiny
crustaceans and should take standard aquarium foods. Cyclop-eeze, frozen marine
preparations, flakes, smaller pellet foods, etc.
Tank Region : Usually hanging around their turf on the live rock.
Gender : Males may become more colorful when ready to breed.
Author : Mike FishLore
References / Further Reading
Michael, S. W. (2001). Marine Fishes, 500+ Essential to Know Aquarium Species. T.F.H.
Publications.
Fenner, R. M. (2001). The Conscientious Marine Aquarist, Commonsense Handbook for
Successful Saltwater Hobbyists. (3rd Printing). T.F.H. Publications.
"Pseudocheilinus hexataenia". FishBase. Ed. Ranier Froese and Daniel Pauly. November 2005
version. N.p.: FishBase, 2005.
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WHITE BELLY WRASSE - HALICHOERES LEUCOXANTHUS
The White Belly Wrasse is also known as the Lemon Meringue Wrasse and is often sold as the
yellow coris wrasse. The White Belly Wrasse has a white belly and a yellow top with spots on
the dorsal fin. This wrasse is often picked up in the hopes of ridding a tank of unwanted pests
such as montipora eating nudibranchs, acropora flatworms, bristle worms and pyramidellid
snails that are parasites on tridacnid clams. Reports are hit and miss regarding their true
effectiveness of controlling these unwanted pests. Some hobbyists swear by the White Belly
Wrasse and others get annoyed with their exceptional carpet surfing abilities. A tank with a
good fitting hood or canopy will go a long way in keeping them in your tank. If yours should end
up missing, check the floor, the overflow and sump for the little jumper.
Upon introduction to your tank they may be somewhat skittish but they should soon settle
down and be out and about picking at the live rock in your tank. Use caution if you plan on
keeping the White Belly Wrasse in a reef tank because they may (or may not) pick at snails,
crabs and clams. A sand bed of at least a couple of inches is needed because they dive into it at
night to sleep.
Try to feed the White Belly Wrasse a couple of times per day frozen meaty foods. You can try
the pellets and flakes but it may take awhile to get them eating the pellets/flakes. Keep trying
though. They will also pick up nourishment from any pods found on and within the sandbed and
live rock. You may have picked one of these wrasses up with the hopes of them helping rid your
tank of one of the pests mentioned above. In my personal experience they have not done much
in the way of controlling monti eating nudis, having kept one in a frag tank with afflicted montis.
However, others claim that they did notice them eating the nudibranchs.
Whether you picked a White Belly Wrasse up to be a part of a utility crew or just because it was
a pretty little wrasse, it will make a great addition to the right set up. They stay on the small side
and get along well with others (except others of the same species) and they are not that hard to
get eating.
Also, a sand bed a few inches deep is needed for them to sleep in at night. If you have a bare
bottomed tank a Tupperware bowl full of sand hidden behind the live rock will work fine. Make
it deep enough so they can dive into it.
White Belly Wrasse Pictures
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White Belly Wrasse Profile Facts and Care Information
Scientific Name : Halichoeres leucoxanthus
Common Names : White Belly Wrasse, Lemon Meringue Wrasse, White and Purple Wrasse
(seldom called this), sometimes sold as the yellow coris wrasse but this species has a white belly
Care Level : Easy - usually adapts quite well to aquarium life
Life span : 5+ years
Size : Up to 5 inches (12 cm)
pH : 8.1 - 8.4
Temperature : 75°F - 79°F (24°C - 26°C)
Specific Gravity : 1.023 - 1.025
Origin / Habitat : Indonesia, Sri Lanka, Indian Ocean
White Belly Wrasse Temperament / Behavior : Mostly peaceful
Breeding / Mating / Reproduction : To our knowledge and as of 2011, this species has not been
bred in the home aquarium.
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Tank Size : 30 gallon minimum
Compatible Tank Mates : Use caution when putting them in with other wrasses but otherwise
should do fine with other similar sized fish species.
Reef Tank Compatible? : Could be considered with caution. They may nip at hermit crabs and
tridacnid clams.
White Belly Wrasse Disease : Saltwater Fish Disease - Diagnose, Symptoms and Treatment.
White Belly Wrasse Diet / Fish Food : Goes after meaty frozen marine foods readily but ignores
flakes and pellets. Picks at the live rock all day long.
Tank Region : Some are quite bold and will swim all over the tank whereas others seldom
venture far from cover.
Gender : Unknown
Forum : Saltwater Angelfish Forum
Author : Mike FishLore
References :
"Halichoeres leucoxanthus". FishBase. Ed. Ranier Froese and Daniel Pauly. November 2005
version. N.p.: FishBase, 2005.
Michael, S. W. (2001). Marine Fishes, 500+ Essential to Know Aquarium Species. T.F.H.
Publications.
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HARLEQUIN TUSKFISH - CHOERODON FASCIATUS
The Harlequin Tuskfish (Choerodon fasciatus) is an interesting wrasse that is usually shipped out
of the Philippines or Australia. If you can (and if they know) ask your pet store where they get
their Harlequin Tuskfish from. If they say the Philippines you may want to take a pass on it. If
they say Australia you may be good to go but make sure you watch them eat something first.
The harlequins coming from the Philippines are caught using questionable practices whereas in
Australia the fish have a better shipping and survival record. If all that checks out, assuming you
can afford the price tag and you have a big enough saltwater aquarium with the appropriate
tank mates you may find yourself owning a Harlequin Tuskfish. Their blue tusks (teeth),
beautiful colors and markings can be hard to resist. You will pay a premium price for those
coming out of Australia but it's most likely worth it because they will live longer than a couple of
weeks and they are supposed to be more colorful.
Although they can be shy when small and first acclimated to a tank, they usually come around
and will be out and about. You may have problems introducing them into a tank with larger
angelfish or triggers if they were in the tank first. The larger species may bully a smaller tuskfish.
Make sure they are getting enough to eat and they should come around.
Speaking of food, the Harlequin Tuskfish is mostly carnivorous but does go after most foods
presented to them. Try to give them a healthy, fresh and balanced diet. Fresh fish, shrimp and
clams from the market cut up into appropriately sized pieces works well. Try to mix in some sea
veggies too to get some roughage into their diet.
Reef tank keepers may not be interested in this species due to the fact that they will go after
smaller invertebrates such as shrimp and crabs. They may have a harder time getting at the
snails. Corals and clam mantles are usually not bothered.
Even though the Harlequin Tuskfish coming from Australia are reported by hobbyists to be quite
disease resistant (avoid the Philippines Tuskfish) it would still be wise to do a freshwater dip
and/or quarantine for several weeks before putting them into an established aquarium.
This is a really cool fish that could be the show piece in a larger saltwater tank setup with the
right tank mates. Provide them a large tank with caves using the live rock, good water quality,
fresh foods and they should be happy campers.
Harlequin Tuskfish Picture
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Tuskfish Photo Credit: Leonard Low (Australia)
Harlequin Tuskfish Profile Facts and Care Information
Scientific Name : Choerodon fasciatus
Common Names : Harlequin Tuskfish
Care Level : Easy
Life span : 8 or more years in captivity
Size : 10 inches (25 cm)
Water Parameters : ph: 8.1 - 8.4, Temperature: 77°F - 82°F (25°C - 28°C), Specific Gravity: 1.020
- 1.025, dKH: 8 - 12°
Origin / Habitat : Reefs of the Western Pacific, Indonesia, the Philippines and near Queensland,
Australia
Harlequin Tuskfish Temperament / Behavior : Does well with similar sized species but can be
territorial with other tuskfish. May eat smaller fish and invertebrates as it gets larger. They are
frequently quite shy when first acclimated to a tank. Give them some time to adjust and make
sure they are eating and they should eventually be out and about.
Breeding / Mating / Reproduction : Not sure if this species has been propagated in captivity.
They are open water egg scatterers.
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Tank Size : 75 gallon minimum, preferably larger
Harlequin Tuskfish Compatible Tank Mates : Don't mix them with other Harlequin Tuskfish. Keep
only one to a tank and you should be ok. Snails might be ok, but shrimps and hermit crabs will
probably be on the menu for these wrasses.
Reef Tank Compatible? : If you're not keeping shrimps or crabs they have a pretty good
reputation for leaving corals and clams alone. You need a big reef tank though.
Fish Disease : Saltwater Fish Disease - Diagnose, Symptoms and Treatment
Diet / Fish Food : Mostly carnivorous, the Harlequin Tuskfish will do well with a varied diet in
captivity. Occasional fresh meaty seafood fare from the market such as clams and small pieces
of shrimp can be offered. Mix in some sea veggies to round out their diet along with a good
quality and fresh flake food or pellet food. Most of the time these wrasses are easy to feed
relative to other saltwater fish species.
Tank Region : Out and about much of the time but they do like a cave to hunker down in at
night.
Gender : Don't know of any external differences between the male and female harlequins.
Author : Mike FishLore
References
Michael, S. W. (2001). Marine Fishes, 500+ Essential to Know Aquarium Species. T.F.H.
Publications.
Fenner, R. M. (2001). The Conscientious Marine Aquarist, Commonsense Handbook for
Successful Saltwater Hobbyists. (3rd Printing). T.F.H. Publications.
"Choerodon fasciatus". FishBase. Ed. Ranier Froese and Daniel Pauly. November 2005 version.
N.p.: FishBase, 2005.
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SNAPPERS
EMPEROR SNAPPER - (LUTJANUS SEBAE)
The Red Emperor Snapper is one of those fish that in my opinion shouldn't really be as easily
available to hobbyists as it is. The problem is that the Emperor Snapper gets way too big for 99
percent of home aquariums. They can get up to 45 inches (116 cm) and need lots of swimming
space. Some of the stores (both online and locally) recommend a tank in the 200 gallon range
which to me is way too small for a fish that can grow to over 3 feet in size. As juveniles they
have black and white stripes but as they mature they take on more of a red color with the
stripes fading.
The Emperor Snapper needs to be fed bigger and bigger food items as they grow. As juveniles
they will eat frozen or fresh chopped pieces of fish, clam, scallops, shrimp, etc. When they start
getting large, feeder fish and large carnivore pellets should be on the menu.
As juveniles they can be kept in groups but as they mature they may begin fighting with each
other and it's recommended to keep only one Emperor Snapper per aquarium.
For the most part, they acclimate to aquarium conditions well and they are somewhat easy to
feed. The main problem is the size they can reach and the fact that most hobbyists simply can't
afford the aquarium accommodations this snapper needs. If you see this snapper in the store,
check it out. Admire it in the store's tank and then keep on walking.
Emperor Snapper Picture
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Emperor Snapper Profile Facts and Care Information
Scientific Name : Lutjanus sebae
Common Names : Emperor Snapper, Emperor Red Snapper, Government Bream, Red Emperor
Care Level : Difficult, this snapper needs an enormous tank that would have to be custom built
to keep one of them adequately.
Size : Up to 45 inches (116 cm)
Life span : 15 - 20 years, possibly longer
Water Parameters : pH 8.1 - 8.4 | Temperature 72°F - 76°F (22°C - 24°C) | SG 1.020 - 1.025 |
dKH 8 - 12°
Origin / Habitat : Indo West Pacific, Red Sea, East Africa, Northern Australia north to southern
Japan. Found at depths of 16 to 600 feet (5 to 180 meters)
Temperament / Behavior : This snapper is a voracious eater and will eat smaller fish and
invertebrates. They need to be kept in an extremely large aquarium with other large fish
species.
Breeding / Mating / Reproduction : Don't know if it's been bred in an aquarium setting yet.
These snappers are open water substratum egg scatterers and do not guard the eggs.
Tank Size : 1000 plus gallons (3700 plus liters) or much bigger
Compatible Tank Mates : Other large fish species that can fend for themselves.
Fish Disease : Saltwater Fish Disease - Diagnose, Symptoms and Treatment.
Emperor Snapper Diet / Fish Food : Primarily a carnivore, smaller fish, crustaceans, meaty foods.
Tank Region : As juveniles they are somewhat reclusive and shy so they need plenty of available
hiding places. They get less reclusive/shy as the get bigger and will be all over the tank.
Gender : Don't know of any external characteristics to use to differentiate the male emperor
snapper from the female emperor.
Author : Mike FishLore
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References
Michael, S. W. (2001). Marine Fishes, 500+ Essential to Know Aquarium Species. T.F.H.
Publications.
"Lutjanus sebae". FishBase. Ed. Ranier Froese and Daniel Pauly. November 2005 version.
Michael, S. W. (2004) Angelfishes and Butterflyfishes. T.F.H. Publications
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COMETS
MARINE BETTA (CALLOPLESIOPS ALTIVELIS)
The Marine Betta (Calloplesiops altivelis) is also commonly known as the Comet. It is another
amazing looking saltwater species that gets to around 8 inches in size and needs at least a 55
gallon aquarium or larger. They can be very shy when first introduced and that can pose
problems if they are kept with more aggressive tank mates. Make sure they are getting
something to eat. Once eating though they are considered very hardy. They may fight with
other Comets but should be ok with similar sized fish. Smaller fish and shrimp may become
snacks.
If you want to buy a Marine Betta plan on spending anywhere from $70 to $100.
Marine Betta Species Profile Facts and Care Information
Scientific Name : Calloplesiops altivelis
Common Names : Marine Betta, Comet
Care Level : Easy - considered quite hardy once it starts eating
Size : 8 inches (20 cm)
Life span : 10 plus years or longer
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Water Parameters : pH : 8.1 - 8.4 | Temperature : 72°F - 80°F (22°C - 27°C) | Specific Gravity :
1.020 - 1.025 | Carbonate Hardness (dKH) : 8 - 12°
Origin / Habitat : Indo-Pacific: Red Sea and East Africa to Tonga at depths of 3 to 45 meters
found near reefs and caves near drop-offs
Temperament / Behavior : They will eat smaller fish and shrimp
Breeding / Mating / Reproduction : These are egg-guarders/nesters. The male will guard the
eggs with the eggs hatching in 5 to 6 days
Tank Size : 55 gallon (210 liters) minimum
Compatible Tank Mates : Needs to be kept with similar sized species. It may fight with other
comets.
Reef Tank Compatible? : No - will eat smaller fish and ornamental shrimp.
Fish Disease : Saltwater Fish Disease
Diet / Fish Food : Needs to be fed meaty type marine origin foods such as clams on the half
shell, pieces of fresh fish, mysis shrimp, larger pellets (as it grows in size). They may eat smaller
fish in the tank too.
Tank Region : Swims all over when lights are dim, but middle regions mostly.
Gender : No external characteristics that we know of to tell males from females. They may be
able to change sex from female to male.
Photo Credit: Lonnie Huffman
Author : Mike FishLore
References
Michael, S. W. (2001). Marine Fishes, 500+ Essential to Know Aquarium Species. T.F.H.
Publications.
"Calloplesiops altivelis". FishBase. Ed. Ranier Froese and Daniel Pauly. November 2005 version.
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MARINE INVERTEBRATE SPECIES
BRITTLE STAR - TIGER STRIPED SERPENT SEASTAR
The Brittle Star is one of those reef invertebrates that is often hidden away during the day. The
brittle stars come out at night and scavenge all over the bottom of the tank and on the live rock
looking for bits and pieces of things to eat. The brittle stars for the most part are rather good
tank mates with fish, corals and other inverts. Some are quite cool looking, including the Tiger
Striped Brittle Star varieties. Colors vary quite a bit with some being light brown with darker
stripes and some are dark brown with even darker stripes. They are called "brittle stars"
because there arms are easily broken off as some sort of defensive mechanism.
Sea stars in general should be acclimated slowly to your well established tank. They won't
tolerate extreme differences in salinity and pH. Don't add them to new tanks since they can be
intolerant of changing or fluctuating water parameters. Do a slow drip acclimation over an hour
or longer so they can adjust to your tank's water conditions. Once they've adjusted you should
find them to be relatively hardy provided that you keep you water parameters at optimal levels.
They don't ship all that well though with many perishing in shipment.
You can try to feed your Brittle Star very small pieces of fresh raw seafood using a feeding stick.
If money is tight and you don't want to shell out the $15 buck or so, you can always use the
good ole chop sticks taped together trick to make your own feeding stick. If you can see one of
their arms poking out of a cave or wherever they're hiding, place the food as close a possible to
them. They should react to it.
Brittle Stars can be considered reef tank safe since they will leave corals, fish and other reef
invertebrates alone.
Brittle Star Profile Facts and Care Information
Scientific Name : Ophiolepis superba
Common Names : Tiger Striped Serpent Seastar, Brittle Star
Brittle Star Care Level : Moderately difficult to care for in the home aquarium.
Life span : If well cared for they can live for several years in a saltwater aquarium.
Size : 12 inches and sometimes a little larger (30 cm) when measuring from arm tip to arm tip.
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pH : 8.1 - 8.4
Temperature : 72°F - 80°F (22°C - 27°C)
Specific Gravity : 1.020 - 1.025
Carbonate Hardness (dKH) : 8 - 12°
Origin / Habitat : Found on many reefs from Southern Japan to Australia's Great Barrier Reef
Temperament / Behavior : These brittle stars are scavengers that should feed on detritus, dead
organisms, etc. They should leave corals and fish alone.
Breeding / Mating / Reproduction : Unknown if breeding has been achieved in the home
aquarium.
Tank Size : 20 gallon minimum
Brittle Star Compatible Tank Mates : Many given their behavior and feeding habits. Watch out
for any stars labeled "green brittle stars" though. These are known fish eaters.
Reef Tank Compatible? : Yes, they should be fine in a reef tank setup.
Fish Disease : Saltwater Fish Disease - Diagnose, Symptoms and Treatment. These brittle sea
stars are usually relatively hardy once established. Broken off arms should regenerate. Don't
use any copper based meds, keep nitrate levels low too.
Diet / Fish Food : They should scavenge the tank floor and rock surfaces at night. You can try
supplemental feedings by placing small pieces of fresh uncooked seafood near them. They may
come out when they sense that fish food hits the water.
Tank Region : All over the substrate and live rock.
Gender : It's very difficult, if possible, to determine external differences between male and
female brittle stars.
Author : Mike FishLore
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CHOCOLATE CHIP STARFISH - PROTOREASTOR NODOSUS
The Chocolate Chip sea star is a somewhat hardy echinoderm. Acclimating them to your tank
can take a while longer than most other saltwater organisms because Chocolate Chip Starfish
are very intolerant of sudden shifts in water parameters such as pH, temperature and salinity
levels.
Even though these Chocolate Chip Starfish will scavenge around the tank you still need to
supplement their diet. Feeding them can be challenging because they are slow moving and the
fish in your tank will eat the food before your sea star has a chance to get at the fish food. Use
some Tank Tongs to place the food right next to the starfish. It should hover over the food and
begin eating. It is important to note that they will eat smaller invertebrates and soft corals. This
starfish is not recommended for a reef tank setup.
Chocolate Chip Starfish Pictures
Chocolate Chip Starfish Profile Facts and Care Information
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Scientific Name : Protoreastor nodosus
Common Names : Chocolate Chip Starfish, Sea Star
Care Level : Easy to moderate
Life span : 5 - 7 years, possibly longer
Size : 6 inches or larger (15 cm)
pH : 8.1 - 8.4
Temperature : 72°F - 80°F (22°C - 27°C)
Specific Gravity : 1.020 - 1.025
Carbonate Hardness (dKH) : 8 - 12°
Origin / Habitat : Red Sea
Chocolate Chip Starfish Temperament / Behavior : They are generally peaceful.
Breeding / Mating / Reproduction : Not very common in the home aquarium.
Tank Size : 30 gallon minimum
Chocolate Chip Starfish Compatible Tank Mates : This is not considered a "reef safe"
echinoderm. They will eat corals and slow moving invertebrates.
Reef Tank Compatible? : Nope. They will eat any stationary and slow moving animals in your reef
tank setup.
Fish Disease : Saltwater Fish Disease - Diagnose, Symptoms and Treatment
Chocolate Chip Starfish Diet / Fish Food : Algae, Shrimp, shell fish, etc. Place the food near the
sea star so that it may eat.
Tank Region : All over. They like to attach to the sides of the glass and on live rock or the
substrate.
Gender : Hard to determine differences between male and female.
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Author : Mike FishLore
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CORAL BANDED SHRIMP - STENOPUS HISPIDUS
The Coral Banded Shrimp is a very popular invertebrate that is kept in many marine aquariums.
Coral Banded Shrimp are usually found in small crevices or hanging from live rock in the
aquarium. Most of their time is spent in hiding and you won't see them walking around very
often. It is important to make sure they are getting their share of food around feeding time.
This may mean that you have to use a feeding stick and place the food directly in front of them
so they can grab it. It's probably not a good choice for reef aquariums because they have a
tendency to pinch at corals and anemones looking for food.
If your Coral Banded Shrimp loses one of its arms or claws, don't worry. They will regenerate it
the next time they molt. Iodine supplements may need to be added to your tank water.
The Coral Banded Shrimp is usually lumped in with the other cleaner shrimps but this behavior
is not often seen in the home aquarium. Many hobbyists have noted that they have never seen
this shrimp clean fishes.
These Coral Banded Shrimp are usually very hardy if they have been acclimated slowly. It's
recommended to acclimate them to your aquarium water over a period of an hour or more to
avoid pH shock. Also, carefully read any medications before using them in a tank with
invertebrates. Many fish medicines will kill your invertebrates.
Coral Banded Shrimp Pictures
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Coral Banded Shrimp Profile Facts and Care Information
Scientific Name : Stenopus hispidus
Common Names : Banded Cleaner Shrimp, Banded Boxer Shrimp, Barber Pole Shrimp
Care Level : Easy, good invertebrate for saltwater beginners, use a slow dripacclimation to
introduce to your tank.
Life span : 2 - 3 years, maybe longer
Size : Up to 2 inches (5 cm)
pH : 8.0 - 8.4
Temperature : 72°F - 80°F (24°C - 27°C)
Specific Gravity : 1.022 - 1.025
Carbonate Hardness (dKH) : 8 - 12°
Origin / Habitat : Indo-Pacific
Coral Banded Shrimp Temperament / Behavior : Peaceful if not mixed with other shrimps,
especially other banded coral shrimps. The exception to this rule is a mated pair of Banded
Coral Shrimps.
Coral Banded Shrimp Breeding / Mating / Reproduction : Difficult to breed them in the home
aquarium because the larvae either gets eaten or sucked into the filtration system. Also
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see: How to Raise and Train Peppermint Shrimp for a complete how-to on breeding saltwater
shrimp.
Tank Size : 30 gallon minimum
Coral Banded Shrimp Compatible Tank Mates : Avoid keeping them in an aquarium with Lionfish,
Snappers, Groupers, Triggers, Eels or any other predatory fish large enough to eat them. We
would not recommend mixing them with other shrimps. You will probably see much better
results keeping only one CBS in your tank.
Reef Tank Compatible? : If you have other shrimps in the tank, you might see some aggression
from the banded coral shrimp. Others report that they have no problems with keeping this
shrimp in a reef aquarium with other shrimps. They may steal food from anemones and corals.
Diet / Fish Food : Omnivore - try to give them a variety of foods. They will take vitamin enriched
flake foods, frozen and definitely live foods. You may have to use a feeding stick to place the
food directly in front of them so they don't have to compete with the faster fish.
Tank Region : Bottom, often hides
Gender : The male is slightly smaller and the female has bluish colored ovaries that can usually
be easily seen.
Author : Mike FishLore
References
Shimek, R. L. (2004). Marine Invertebrates - 500 Essential to Know Aquarium Species. T.F.H.
Publications.
Calfo, A. (2003). Reef Invertebrates - An Essential Guide to Selection, Care and Compatibility.
Readin Trees Publications
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HERMIT CRAB - CLIBANARIUS SPP.
Hermit Crab Information - There are a lot of different types of Hermit Crabs available but some
are better than others in a marine aquarium. If you are looking for something to add to your
cleanup crew, check out the blue-legged and red-legged hermit crab varieties. They will
scavenge all over your live rock and sand substrate looking for algae and detritus. It has been
reported that the red leg hermit will eat cyanobacteria, which is red slime algae. If you have a
relatively new tank you may want to supplement their diet with dried seaweed to prevent them
from starving. You will also want to get some extra hermit crab shells of different sizes for them
to move in to as they grow.
Take a little more time when acclimating the Hermit Crab to your tank water to prevent pH
shock. As with other invertebrates, use extreme caution when using medicine in a tank with
hermit crabs. You risk wiping them out if you do use medicines.
Hermit Crab Pictures
Hermit Crab Profile Facts and Care Information
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Scientific Name : Clibanarius spp.
Common Names : Dwarf Red Tip Hermit Crab
Care Level : Easy, good for saltwater beginners but take an hour or more and use a slow
drip acclimation to get them used to your tank's water parameters.
Hermit Crab Life span : 2 - 4 years, maybe longer
Size : Up to 1 inch (3 cm)
pH : 8.1 - 8.4
Temperature : 72°F - 80°F (22°C - 27°C)
Specific Gravity : 1.022 - 1.025
Origin / Habitat : Mexico, the Caribbean
Hermit Crab Temperament / Behavior : Very peaceful
Hermit Crab Breeding / Mating / Reproduction : Difficult to breed them
Tank Size : 10 gallon minimum
Hermit Crab Compatible Tank Mates : Even though they do have a protective shell, caution is
advised if you plan on keeping them with some of the more aggressive marine invertebrates.
Diet / Fish Food : They will usually scavenge all over live rock and the sand substrate looking for
algae and cyanobacteria (red slime algae). If you don't have enough algae in your tank give
them dried seaweed.
Tank Region : Mostly found on, in or around your live rock.
Gender : There are no definite ways to distinguish males from females.
Author : Mike FishLore
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EMERALD CRAB - MITHRAX SCULPTUS
The Emerald Crab (Mithrax sculptus) is a saltwater invertebrate that is often used as part of a
cleanup crew in marine fish tanks. Emerald Crabs are popular because they help keep the tank
clean and have been reported to eat bubble algae (Velonia sp.). Bubble algae can grow under
even optimal water conditions and this crab is supposed to help keep the bubble algae
population to a minimum. They are a pretty emerald color and stay on the small side, only
reaching about 2 inches (5 cm) when fully grown.
Stocking wise, it is recommended to keep only 1 emerald crab per 20 or 25 gallons. Some have
reported that keeping them in higher concentrations could lead to aggression amongst
themselves. They may also attack smaller snails so if you like your snails, you'll need to keep an
eye on your crabs. They may do just fine with snails, but you never know.
Another part of their diet may consist of coralline algae. Yes, the pretty purple and red algae
that encrusts the tank glass and live rock. If your tank has several emeralds you may have some
issues with this habit.
While they are quite hardy, you will still want to take your time and acclimate your Emerald
Crab slowly into your aquarium. Take an hour and do a slow drip acclimation to help get them
adjusted to your water parameters. Once inside the tank they may hide out for much of the
time, but you may start to see them out and about as time goes on.
Overall, the Emerald Crab can be a good scavenger for your tank. Use caution if you have a reef
tank with snails and corals. They may eat or nip at coral polyps. Fish only setups should have no
problems with keeping these emerald crabs.
Emerald Crab Pictures
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Emerald Crab Profile Facts and Care Information
Scientific Name : Mithrax sculptus
Common Names : Emerald Crab, Mithrax Crab
Care Level : Easy
Life span : 2 - 4 years
Size : 1.5 - 2 inches or larger (5 cm)
pH : 8.1 - 8.4
Temperature : 70°F - 80°F (21°C - 27°C)
Specific Gravity : 1.020 - 1.025
Carbonate Hardness (dKH) : 8 - 12°
Origin / Habitat : Caribbean, Atlantic
Emerald Crab Temperament / Behavior : They can be peaceful but are considered semi-
aggressive since they may scrap with other crabs and shrimp.
Breeding / Mating / Reproduction : Not sure of a successful rearing of baby emerald crabs in the
home aquarium. They can and do release larvae.
Tank Size : 10 gallon minimum
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Compatible Tank Mates : The Emerald Crab could be considered reef tank safe, although when it
reaches it's adult size of 1.5 to 2 inches it may get more aggressive, especially with other inverts
such as snails.
Reef Tank Compatible? : Yes, but watch them closely. They may go after your saltwater snails.
Fish Disease : Saltwater Fish Disease - Diagnose, Symptoms and Treatment
Diet / Fish Food : A scavenger, their claim to fame is their propensity to eat bubble algae. They
have also been reported to eat coralline algae (Doh!) as well as scavenge on the live rock and
sand bed. They do a decent job as part of a clean up crew.
Tank Region : Usually on, in or around the live rock or sand substrate.
Gender : Hard to determine differences between male and female.
Author : Mike FishLore
References
Calfo, Anthony & Fenner, Robert (2003). Reef Invertebrates - An Essential Guide to Selection,
Care and Compatibility.
Kurtz, Jeffrey (2005), TFH Publications. The Simple Guide to Mini-Reef Aquariums - Modern
Reefkeeping Practices, Coral Compatability.
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PENCIL URCHIN - EUCIDARIS TRIBULOIDES
The pencil urchin is often picked up by hobbyists that want to add them to their cleanup crew.
This urchin will graze on algae, sponges, tunicates and does a decent job. However, they may
also eat calcareous coralline algae and macro algae as well. The pencil urchin will eat meaty
foods too and some hobbyists have reported that they have caught them munching on
ornamental shrimps and crabs. You can usually find them online for $10 to $20 a piece and they
are often on the small side but they can get up to around 6 inches (15 cm) when fully grown.
They may knock over loose frags so keep that in mind if you put one in your reef tank. They will
also eat the items mentioned above so you may want to take a pass on this invert if you have a
reef tank. A fish-only type tank setup of 30 gallons or more with lots of live rock for them to
graze on is decent to start with. They are mostly nocturnal so you may not see them out and
about when the lights are on.
Pencil Urchin Profile Facts and Care Information
Scientific Name : Eucidaris tribuloides
Common Names : Pencil Urchin, Mine Urchin
Pencil Urchin Care Level : Easy
Life span : several years
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