HAIR: JAKE HOBBS MODEL: ALLIE HILL PHOTOGRAPHER: LIAM OAKES
INTERNATIONAL INSIGHT WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK / 43 MIKE TAYLOR HAIR: MIKE TAYLOR OF MIKE TAYLOR EDUCATION STYLING: EMILY TAYLOR TOOLS: DENMAN PROFESSIONAL MAKE-UP: NICOLE FRIPP PHOTOGRAPHER: LIAM OAKES
INTERNATIONAL INSIGHT 44 / WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK “THE NEW MALE COLLECTION IS ABOUT FREEDOM – THE FREEDOM TO CHOOSE IF A MAN WANTS TO PAINT HIS NAILS, WEAR MAKE-UP, MIX UP GENDER NORMS OR DITCH THEM ALTOGETHER. IT’S ABOUT PERSONAL EXPRESSION IN STYLE AND THE OPPORTUNITY TO EXPLORE LENGTH, TEXTURE AND FINISH IN THIS HIGH IMPACT COLLECTION. MEN’S HAIR IS LONGER, PERFECTLY STYLED FACIAL HAIR IS HIGH ON THE AGENDA AND COLOUR HAS TO POP!”
INTERNATIONAL INSIGHT WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK / 45
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“CRISP LINES WITH PICTURE PERFECT STYLING. CLASSIC CUTS, YET WITH A SLIGHT TWIST OF ADVENTURE”
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“THE INSPIRATION FOR THIS COLLECTION CAME FROM THE CURRENT GENDER BLENDER FASHION SCENE.”
KNOW HOW 54 / WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK CURLS UNLEASHED STEP-BY-STEP How to achieve the perfect curly mullet, courtesy of Mike Taylor, Owner of Mike Taylor Education THE BEFORE 01 Starting on one side, take a diagonal section above the ear and club cut to create your guide. Repeat on the other side. 02 Take a section from the crown to the back of the ears and then from the temples back to create a rectangular section on top of the head. 03 04 Using some of the previous top section as your guide, move to the side of the top section and start graduating in towards the previously cut side sections. Repeat on the other side. 05 Next, take a vertical section from the crown to the nape. Lift the hair out at a 90-degree angle and club cut to the desired length. As you get towards the nape, over direct the section to retain more length at the bottom. Continue this around the head in orange segment sections until you reach the previously cut side sections. To cut the perimeter line, comb the hair with tension and cut the hair to the desired length. Starting at the crown, take a small section and lift the hair vertically and club cut to the desired length. Continue working towards the front hairline using some of your previously cut section as your guide.
KNOW HOW WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK / 55 06 07 Use clipper over comb to blend the hair to the side length. Then use trimmers to cut the outlines. Cross-check your work, then using clippers, remove the length at the side sections. Use a slight flicking motion to avoid creating a harsh line and go up to just below the previous diagonal section. 08 Use a sea salt spray and brush to style. Using a diffuser will help to create a curly, textured look. 09 Finish with a texture paste THE AFTER and fan tail comb to define.
56 / WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK COMMUNITY THE 10 MINUTE CHAT Will Brown is a salon owner and men’s hairdresser, and in our 10 Minute Chat he explains why he is focusing on mental health training in his salon and spreading the message far and wide W HAT’S YOUR CAREER BACKGROUND? I’m an award-winning salon owner of Will Brown Hair in Henlow, Bedfordshire. I’ve presented my work on national stages, worked on photo shoots and won personal and business accolades. But I’ve done all this whilst living with some debilitating mental health issues and it’s been hard at times. WHAT LED YOU TO MAKING MENTAL HEALTH A TOP PRIORITY IN YOUR BUSINESS? After a long journey of overcoming personal battles with OCD, anxiety and ADHD, I filmed a video in my salon with Oly Newton, a Mental Health First Aider sharing our experience. The response on social media really highlighted the necessity for more vital training within our industry so I set about making this happen. WHAT CAME NEXT? I created Open Chair, working alongside Lights On Mental Health. Oly Newton is our educator – he is an experienced motivational speaker and Mental Health First Aid trainer
COMMUNITY WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK / 57 through Mental Health First Aid (MHFA) England. Oly has shared his story with thousands of business, corporate and student audiences across the country and, having experienced severe mental health issues for the duration of his life, he now motivates others through sharing his own experiences and advice. WHAT ARE THE KEY SIGNS A CLIENT IS STRUGGLING WITH MENTAL HEALTH? Knowing the signs can be difficult. It is really important to follow their lead and not provoke a reaction. If their mood is out of character, then perhaps ask them “are you ok today?” rather than “you alright?”. This has more empathy and could encourage them to fully answer the question. WHAT DIRECT ACTION CAN YOU TAKE TO HELP A CLIENT YOU THINK IS STRUGGLING WITH THEIR MENTAL HEALTH? Firstly, you must make them aware that you are not a qualified psychiatrist, counsellor or therapist. Hairdressers and barbers are often the first port of call for an open conversation so if you feel it’s appropriate, you can direct them down the correct avenue. Signposting your clients to wellbeing apps and websites such as Headspace and Calm can provide havens of escape. Hub Of Hope can provide your client with access to charities, organisations and services in your local area, using a simple postcode search, specific to the issues they are dealing with. Not all clients feel safe to be vulnerable straight away, so always build trust before attempting to start the conversation. A good way of doing this is by being open yourself. If you have opened up to your client, the first barrier has been broken down which could enable your client to reciprocate their experiences. HOW DO YOU MAKE YOUR SALON A SAFE SPACE FOR CLIENTS WITH MENTAL HEALTH ISSUES? Some clients with mental health issues such as anxiety don’t always enjoy the salon experience. Designated quiet zones can provide a client with less intense surroundings. Offering ‘quiet sessions’ or ’silent appointments’ at dedicated times of the week can encourage an anxious client to book during these less intrusive times. At William Brown Hair our biggest commitment to our clients is dedicating the whole appointment time to them. We have no clients between colour and cuts, ensuring not only a bespoke hairdressing service but also committed time to our clients. Whatever positive impact you provide, it is important to use your social media channels to shout about these options. It is great for your reputation to show you care for your clients and offer unique services to accommodate our fragile society. HOW DO YOU ENSURE THAT YOU PROTECT YOURSELF/YOUR BUSINESS? As much as we want to help our clients, you need to make sure that you don’t break GDPR or employment contract rules by contacting clients outside of your column. Mental health symptoms often cross over so ensure the advice you are giving is purely based on an emotional connection, you should never give out any formal advice or diagnoses. Mental health issues affect 1 in 4 people, so by understanding these issues yourself I believe you can safeguard your own mental health at the same time. WHAT IMPACT HAS THE PANDEMIC HAD ON THE INDUSTRY’S MENTAL HEALTH? The personal care sector was one of the worst affected industries by Covid-19. If we ever needed proof of how essential our services are both physically and mentally, think back to the queues of men and women lining the streets from midnight to get their hair cut! Society’s mental health has declined with around a third of people reporting that their own mental health is worse now compared to 2020. Other shocking stats include 88% of young people saying loneliness has affected their mental health since lockdowns and 25% of the population are now suffering from either depression or anxiety-related issues. Put that into context as a working professional; if you see eight clients in a day, it’s likely that two of them are statistically being affected by potentially crippling and debilitating issues. CAN BARBERS AND HAIRDRESSERS BE AFFECTED BY HEARING THEIR CLIENT’S ISSUES? We often carry the burden of 5-10 deep conversations throughout the day, and they can weigh heavy on us as stylists and barbers. Since 2020, the lives of hairstylists and barbers have been hugely affected. This may be from numerous lockdowns causing anxiety and depression, redundancy due to business closure from Covid-19 or sadly the loss of a loved one. The past few years have been a tornado of emotions as we all grappled with and navigated a new way of living and working. IF YOU COULD SAY ONE THING TO THE INDUSTRY, WHAT WOULD IT BE? Mental health illnesses are invisible. Do not presume or judge. Now is the time to equip yourself or your staff with the armoury to identify and communicate. Do not delay, wasting time is wasting lives. I hope that society will be inspired to talk about their mental health more openly. “HAIRDRESSERS AND BARBERS ARE OFTEN THE FIRST PORT OF CALL FOR AN OPEN CONVERSATION SO IF YOU FEEL IT’S APPROPRIATE, YOU CAN DIRECT THEM DOWN THE CORRECT AVENUE.”
COMMUNITY 58 / WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK LEARNING FROM Claire Chambers tells us how her relationship with her Grandad led to a passionate career in barbering laire Chambers’ barbering journey started at a very young age, thanks to the inspiration of her Grandad Ray, a barber in Kettering, Northamptonshire. With his own barbershop at the front of his house, Claire spent much of her childhood helping to sweep up while chatting away with clients. It was during this time that she witnessed how much her Grandad loved his career and decided she wanted to follow suit. Following her exceptionally early work experience, Claire travelled across the world, recalling: “I’ve had the opportunity to work in some excellent barbershops, one job that I particularly enjoyed was working in a barbershop in Sydney, Australia where I got to work alongside barbers from all over the world. They all taught me something different, so it was a really valuable experience.” THE BEST
COMMUNITY WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK / 59 Claire knew that eventually she wanted to open her own barbershop one day. “I wanted to create an environment where people come in, feel comfortable and relaxed, and leave with a smile on their face – not just from the haircut they receive, but because they feel happier in themselves, and that a weight has been lifted off their shoulders.” In April 2021, her dream became a reality when she opened Eagle and Bear Barbers in Stamford. Claire explains that the name is particularly special to her because she was keen to incorporate her Grandad into it somehow, since he is the reason she decided to enter the barbering industry. “My Grandad and I also share an interest in golf, and getting an ‘Eagle’ is of course two under par. A lot of my friends call me ‘Bear’, so together, I thought it had a nice ring to it. Most importantly I see the name as meaning ‘Grandad and Claire’”. With such a longstanding passion for the barbering industry, Claire believes a true love for what you do and your customers lies at the heart of a successful barbershop. “If clients truly believe that you love your business then they will support you wholly, and they’ll sing your praises to everyone they know too! My clients know I love what I do and that’s what keeps them coming back. Don’t get complacent and expect a regular to return – you should treat your clients with the same care as you would a close friend or family member.” Claire’s passion for barbering and commitment to her craft aren’t the only influences from her Grandad. She reveals she took inspiration from his barbershop interior too. Wooden panelling and old desks were repurposed as working units, along with small trinkets and old photographs of Stamford, as well as a few of her Grandad, sit proudly on the bookcase. “MOST IMPORTANTLY, I SEE THE NAME AS MEANING ‘GRANDAD AND CLAIRE’” Reflecting on learnings she has taken from her Grandad, Claire says: “People used to spend hours in his barbershop, relaxing and chatting to each other, something which I feel has been lost in recent years.” To try and encourage this culture once again, Eagle and Bear’s waiting area has comfortable chairs, freshly ground coffee, craft beer and a chess board, so clients don’t feel like they are waiting for a haircut, but coming in for an experience. Looking back on her own experiences in barbering, Claire explains that the biggest challenge she has dealt with is spreading her time between the shop floor and the admin side of the business, which can become something of a balancing act. “I love welcoming clients through the door, but I also feel it’s very important to keep on top of your admin and progress the business.” Looking ahead to the future, Claire explains that she would love to experience the same success as her Grandad. “I would like to have a successful barbershop where locals, regulars, friends and family can enjoy the experience that Eagle and Bear has to offer.” She is also committed to taking all of her staff on a mental health first aid course, “We want to ensure we are prepared to always be there to listen when clients need to talk.” “‘DON’T GET COMPLACENT AND EXPECT A REGULAR TO RETURN – YOU SHOULD TREAT YOUR CLIENTS WITH THE SAME CARE AS YOU WOULD A CLOSE FRIEND”
COMMUNITY 60 / WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK F or most barbers, their hands are their most fundamental tool, but when Nicky King was born with Amniotic Band Syndrome – a rare congenital disorder that happens when fibrous bands of the amniotic sac get tangled around a developing foetus – his right hand was severely constricted, meaning it never fully developed. “Growing up, I was bullied horrifically at school,” Nicky recalls. “It taught me that if you’re slightly different, you get isolated and singled out.” Determined not to be overcome by his disability, Nicky cultivated a stubborn streak. When teachers tried to get him to write with his left hand, he determinedly learnt with his less-developed right hand. If he was told he’d never be good at a particular sport, he’d give it a go. “If anyone told me I couldn’t do something, I made it my mission to prove them wrong,” Nicky explains. Barber Nicky King tells us how he didn’t let a birth defect get in the way of his barbering ambitions MY BIGGEST CHALLENGE
COMMUNITY WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK / 61 Eventually, sick of school, Nicky was encouraged by those around him to follow in his Grandad’s footsteps and join the family building firm. But it wasn’t the career path for Nicky and after a short-lived spell at college studying bricklaying, he found a more natural home at his friend’s barbershop. “I enjoyed the vibe and caught the bug for hair,” he says. Thinking he had put the knockbacks and bullying of his school days behind him, Nicky was surprised when his friend’s first response to his barbering ambition was to laugh, leading to that stubborn streak kicking back in. “It ended up being a good trigger and I started saving up to enrol on an apprenticeship course,” he explains. Not long after, Nicky decided to try his luck at a training academy, however he describes being all but “laughed out of the room”. This didn’t deter him and he was intent on working at the highest level – no matter what anyone tried to tell him. Rejected by most of the businesses he spoke to on account of his disability, Nicky finally found a route into the industry with Total Barbers in Shoreditch. Packing up his kitbag, he moved to London and began his barbering journey. Spells at Big Jim’s Trims and Johnny’s Chop Shop followed with Nicky training and mastering techniques he was told he’d never manage. Ultimately, Nicky craved his hometown and started chatting with Bobby Gordon at Fella, who had shops in London and Kent. “We met up and I did a trial day and from that moment on, Bobby has been nothing but supportive,” he says. Now working at the Canterbury shop, Nicky’s career is thriving. Fella’s association with American Crew has seen him take on a multitude of opportunities including representing them on stage at Salon International. “The opportunities have been amazing for me,” Nicky says. “I’ve been on courses and love how they do things differently – like mixing old-school traditions with new ways of thinking.” He goes on to praise boss and mentor Bobby: “He is a total champion, always pushing me on to the next level. He’s given me just what I need to help me grow.” Nicky has proved all the doubters wrong, today cutting with the skill and confidence of any of his peers. “You learn to adapt,” he explains. “I’ve got a ‘cutters hand’ and a ‘workers hand’, I have to be ambidextrous most of the time and I’ve learnt how to hold my scissors and scoop my comb in a certain way. I’ve altered techniques to make them work for me – for texturing with razors or intricate cutting, I’ll use my smaller hand. Now it’s just natural.” Thankfully, the deeper into his career Nicky has gone, the less significant his disability has become. “I’ve learnt how to mask it,” he explains. And today, he’s noticed for his skill rather than his limitations. In fact, he feels his challenges have made him a more intuitive barber. “Part of the job is about recognising when someone’s going through a moment and my experiences mean I can relate,” he reflects. “I feel like barbering has the potential to break down social norms and talk about things in an inclusive way.” His advice to anyone starting out in a similar position? “The sky is the limit,” he says. “Don’t ever let anyone put you in a box or say you can’t do something. You should never be afraid of or hide who you are.”
62 / WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK COMMUNITY WHAT DO YOU WISH YOU’D KNOWN THEN THAT YOU KNOW NOW? Your feet will eventually just get used to standing all day. WHAT’S BEEN YOUR GREATEST ACHIEVEMENT SO FAR? I have a client called Mark, who I met when he had just moved over from America. I cut his hair and we just clicked. I’ve cut his hair every three weeks now for nine years. I’ve seen him through multiple boyfriends, bad dates, lonely times, all the way up to cutting his hair just before his wedding to his husband. I was even invited to the wedding! That was when I thought: I love this job. That was awesome. And he is still one of my really close friends. WHAT DOES THE FUTURE HOLD FOR YOU NOW? I’ve no idea. I just do things that feel right, I know I’ve got solid foundations. I do want to travel the world more. My family is from Brazil, so my eventual plan is to move there and open up my own barbershop and just live on a beach. I’ll call it something really English. My mum is Brazilian, and she’s always joking about opening a Queen Elizabeth Tea Party place. It would be so popular! Murdock London’s Miles Wood Smith shares how he went from shaky beginnings to becoming a master barber WHAT WAS YOUR FIRST JOB BEFORE BARBERING? I helped my Stepdad as a joiner. I won’t lie, I was a rubbish joiner. It was a lot of cutting wood and getting splinters. I liked working with my hands, but I wanted to work with my hands in a less splintery way! WHY DID YOU DECIDE ON A CAREER IN BARBERING? I like talking to people and the thought of taking my job home with me, answering emails or doing something intangible gave me a lot of anxiety. In barbering I love that you listen to your clients and hear their story, but once they leave your job is done and you’re onto the next one. I don’t need to take anything home with me. It’s a very tangible service. HOW DID YOU GET STARTED? Well funnily enough it involves my Stepdad again. His friend had a Porsche and I asked what he did and my Stepdad said: “He’s a hairdresser.” He actually tried to teach me hairdressing and I was rubbish at first, but eventually I really got into men’s hair. I still don’t have a Porsche though… WHAT WAS YOUR BIGGEST CHALLENGE STARTING OUT? I’d say anxiety and imposter syndrome. I managed to fluke my first-ever hairdressing job interview. I don’t know how I did it because it was a really intense test. I did a haircut I’d never done before, but thankfully the interviewer told me it was perfect. The next day I was cutting and one of my first customers was a guy who was on Made in Chelsea, who asked for a very technical haircut. My hands were shaking, and it wasn’t very good. Getting through those first couple of knock backs was the toughest challenge, to be honest. WHAT’S THE BEST PIECE OF ADVICE YOU’VE EVER RECEIVED? Don’t start a haircut until you know exactly what that person wants. For me, I need to know what I’m going to do all the way up until the finished blow dry. 62 / WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK OVERCOMING IMPOSTER SYNDROME
W hat I’m beginning to find in the industry is that there is a big influx of students who are coming out of big colleges and barbering organisations without having the necessary skillset. From our perspective as a smaller academy, it seems that larger organisations are keeping the conveyor belt moving and getting as many people in and out as physically possible with little emphasis on the quality of training so there is a big gap in terms of skills and the quality of training. We deal with all hair types that walk through our door and I strongly advise against pigeonholing yourself as a barber. No matter your race, culture or gender if you want to put yourself in the strongest position possible you should be taught how to cut straight hair, afro hair, mixed hair and so on, from as early as induction. Students that find their way to us have been taught by staff who don’t cover all demographics or hair types. Essentially that means the barbering tutors that are put in place don’t have a wide breadth of skills to be teaching, and this leaves a large percentage of learners without the skills they wanted upon signing up. They’re coming to smaller organisations or shops like us to “top up”, but we’re realising they’re lacking the foundations and the fundamentals, which means we have to start them from scratch. I built my business and my academy out of pure passion because I absolutely love the industry. I love training and education and cutting hair, but when you’re picking up the pieces of the bigger organisations it makes you think about what’s happening on a larger scale. Is this what barbering apprentices and learners are being subject to? How much do they care about the industry or is it just about turnover and profit growth? For me, personally, I won’t hire a tutor unless they eat, sleep, breathe barbering. To have that passion at the centre changes absolutely everything. For anyone thinking of entering the industry now I would say to look for an academy or barbershop that has diversity and is representative of life in 2023. Don’t arm yourself with one skillset and put yourself in a weakened position, when you can have access to everything and everybody. Anderson Boyce, Owner of Hairforce1 tells us why the next generation of barbers deserve a quality education GET SOCIAL @HAIRFORCE1 “THEY’RE COMING TO SMALLER ORGANISATIONS OR SHOPS LIKE US TO “TOP UP”, BUT WE’RE REALISING THEY’RE LACKING THE FOUNDATIONS” SOAPB X COMMUNITY WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK / 63
COMMUNITY 64 / WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK @SHORTIESBARBER Derek, the man behind Shorties, takes full advantage of his vibrant barbershop interior, using it as the perfect backdrop for all of his portfolio shots. @BENJAMINPITTHAIR London-based stylist Ben has a knack for photography, providing all the inspiration you might need to help you step up your IG game. @BARBER_BEN_BIRMINGHAM Barber at Shepherd’s Grooming, Ben’s feed showcases his ability to master longer layers, cool curls and in-demand skin fades – a real Jack of all trades. @OYSTERBARBERS ‘Old school but never old fashioned’, Oyster Barbers have carefully curated their feed to capture their classic trims with modern twists. @FELLA_ALEXANDER A quick scroll through Alex’s feed reveals his extensive experience and exceptional cutting skills – we think he’s one to watch. @MITCHELLCDYER Senior Stylist at Menspire Epsom, Mitchell is a master at capturing content on film, his feed is full of Reels showcasing hair transformations and closeups of his handiwork. We’re always keeping a close eye on your incredible work across social media. These are six of the best accounts firing up our feed right now FIT TO FOLLOW
FOLLOW MODERN BARBER modernbarber modernbarbermag CELEBRATING THE BEST IN BARBERING ENTRIES NOW OPEN AWARDS OMEARA LONDON 15 OCTOBER 2023 WITH THANKS TO OUR SPONSORS #MBAWARDS2023 Entry deadline 5pm Friday 5th May 2023 ENTRY ENQUIRIES Lizzi Brady E: [email protected] T: 0203 841 7365 SPONSORSHIP ENQUIRIES Jackie Brown E: [email protected] T: 0203 841 7366