1900RaorockunCdlimTabfsraout
MOROCCO
Anti-Atlas
MOROCCO2ND EDITION | by Steve Broadbent
Oxford Alpine Club
Anti-Atlas2ND EDITION | by Steve Broadbent
CLIMB TAFRAOUT
Morocco Anti-Atlas
2nd Edition, 2020
by Steve Broadbent
Published in Europe by the Oxford Alpine Club
www.oxfordalpineclub.co.uk
ISBN for this volume 978-1-913167-07-3
©2020 Oxford Alpine Club
All uncredited images and design
by Steve Broadbent ©2020
PLEASE READ THIS!
Rock climbing is an inherently dangerous activity, and users of this guidebook should have a full understanding of the risks involved.
The Anti-Atlas is not a suitable destination for novice climbers, and routes described in this guide require relevant experience, skills, and
careful judgement. This guidebook is a selection of routes described in the Tafraout-area ‘Livre d’Escalade’ kept in the Hotel Les Amandiers
– many of these remain unchecked and descriptions are those provided by the first ascensionists. Information in this book may therefore
be inaccurate, and users should not treat it as a substitute for good ‘mountain-sense’.
ALL RIGHTS RESERVED
Other than brief quotations for use in reviews, or personal use on a climb, no part of this publication may be reproduced in any form
without written permission from the author. Nor should any text, images, or maps be used for commercial products without permission
and acknowledgement of the author. The author and publisher accept no responsibility for any injury or loss caused as a result of using
this guidebook. Images and text contained within this book do not necessarily represent the views or opinions of the Oxford Alpine Club.
Front Cover Photograph: Ben Lister on Skyline (E1 5b) at Robin Hood Rocks, page 457.
Title Page: Mark Stevenson on the sunlit wall of Firesword (E2 5b) on Dragon Rock, page 378.
This Page: Caroline Culwick climbing out of the shadows on Age of Empires (E1 5b) on Ksar Rock, page 338.
Acknowledgements
The mountains around Tafraout are a magical place, and over the last
14 years or so they have provided us with some of the most incredible
experiences and friendships that a climber could wish for. This
guidebook represents a personal obsession with the rock climbs of the
Anti-Atlas, and a project in which I have relied on the help of dozens of
individuals. Firstly, of course, I must thank my wife, Katja, with whom
I have enjoyed countless adventures on these crags, and an equal
number of frustrating days looking for routes, taking photographs and
drawing maps. She has also, once again, helped out with editing and
proofreading.
Thanks also to Sven Letourneau and Jude Waller, who first opened
our eyes to the climbing potential of Tafraout; to Sally Fitton for
starting the ball rolling on our first guidebook back in 2010; to Claude
Davies for providing valuable assistance with the south-side material;
to Les Brown, Mike Mortimer, Jim Fotheringham, and the late
Derek Walker for providing lots of fantastic material about their early
climbs; to Graham ‘Egg’ Everitt and James Strongman for checking
many lines on the south-side; and to Graham Little for providing
numerous topos and photographs.
As usual, the ever-enthusiastic Ron Buckley has cajoled his team,
including Chris Clarke, Ian Dugdale and Jim Nuttall, up dozens
of new routes in the valley and provided lots of valuable feedback
and information. Thanks also to Martin Bennett, Alan Blackburn,
and Ron Kenyon, as well as Guy Robertson, Paul Ross, Charlie
Boscoe, Will Sheaff, Richard Rogers and Jon Roberts for their
contributions.
On the north side, the late Ben Wintringham, along with Pete
Johnson and Mike Mortimer provided invaluable material for
our first edition, which is also included in this latest guide. Topher
Dagg provided many detailed descriptions for routes in Samazar, and
Alberto Rampini and Silvia Mazzani have made my life so much
easier by providing superb topos and photographs of their additions to
the north side of the range.
Of course, I would also like to thank the huge group of Oxford-based
climbers that have shared adventures with me, and also taken
photographs and checked lines. They include: Ben Lister, Arnaud
Viel, Emmanuel Freudenthal, Caroline Culwick, Sally Fitton,
Sesh Nadathur, Elie Dekoninck, Rachel Mellor, Matt Mellor,
Iza Pstrucha, Pete Cawley, Will Benfold, Ania Piotrowski,
Sarah Pemberton, Tom Codrington, Cameron Hall, Patrick
Timoney, Chris Bull, Jenny Burrow, Aileen Robertson, Niall
Hedderley, Zoe Bouras, and Daniyal & Cecilie Mueenuddin,
Mark Stevenson, Lina Arthur and Dave Arthur.
It would also be remiss of me not to mention the work of previous
guidebook writers, who have shared the daunting task of making
sense of the new-route books: Claude Davies, Emma Alsford, Paul
Donnithorne, and Palan Martín, who first documented the sport
climbs on the granite around Tafraout.
In Tafraout, I must give special thanks to Mohammed and Lahcen,
of Maison Troc, and all of the staff of the Hotel les Amandiers –
particularly Hassan and Mohammed for keeping us in beer. Thanks
also to the staff of Restaurant La Kasbah, and all of the locals who have
provided us with information and fascinating stories about Tafraout
and its history.
Finally, of course, I must apologise to anyone who I’ve missed. With
such a huge team of people contributing over such a long timescale
there are bound to be omissions, for which I’m sorry!
4 INTRODUCTION | Overview Map
Jebel TaTskarak|oPuagceh1t90
Area Map E s c a r Taskra Tifghelt 1:10 Tabnanat
pment Doudad Ayoufis 1:00
Crag Hotel
Selector Asseldrar Kasbah Tizourgane
Intro JEBEL TASKRA
The Kasbah
Climbing Tizourgane
How to Aouguenz Road | Page 406 Madao
Use
Tiqqi R105
Suggested
Climbs
IDAOUGNIDIF
Tafraout Lazal Taltemsen Amzkhssan Tifradn
Granite Tnine 1:00
Hotel Anammer
Anergui Ksar Rock Guest House Toudma
Douwalus
Anelakht
Ameln Aouguenz Aguerd Samazar Ighir
Valley Ouzrou Road Tamza
Tarakatine SamTaamzadr k| Pratge 349 Ogogn Idaougnidif | Page 229
Pass 1:30
Anammer 1:15 Afantinzar Road Jebel el Kest Massif
Sidi M’Zal Talmst Afantinzar | Page 273 JEBEL EL KEST
Hairpins
Jebel Taskra Talmst
Asner P190Fo0ussaoun Tagdicht
Anergui | Page 54 Hotel
R105Auberge Tilila
TANALT 1:00 Dwawj Tajgalt Dwawj Anergui
Amaghouz Hairpins Tagzene | Page 430
Idaougnidif Tazult Asgaour
Afantinzar
Samazar Thmani Tayart Igordan Tamaloucht Ameln Oumsn
Aouguenz Azouran Anammer
Tagzene
Ait Oumgas
Tagmout 0:10 A m e l n Va l l e y Hotel
0:25 Tête du Lion
Hotel
Tagmout Northside Chez Amaliya
0:45 Road junction
Tagmout | Page 440 TAFRAOUT
Tagmout R107
Tazka
Aday
OVERVIEW MAP – Tafraout Anti-Atlas R104 Aguerd Oudad
N Aousift
History
Index 0km 2km 4km 6km 8km 10km
Main (regional) road Local road (surfaced)
Provincial route Local road (unsurfaced)
0:45 Approximate drive time from Tafraout 0:10
Tafraout Granite | Page 37
Contents | INTRODUCTION 5
IN CASE OF EMERGENCY Contents Area Map
Crag
Tafraout Police +212 (0)528 800061 Crag Selector . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Tafraout Ambulance +212 (0)528 862993 Introduction. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 Selector
About this Guidebook. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11 Intro
British Consulate +212 (0)528 841219 Other Guidebooks. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11 The
British Embassy +212 (0)537 633333 Maps. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
When to Visit. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 Climbing
Tizi Gzaouine Getting to Tafraout. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13 How to
0:40 Logistics. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
People & Culture. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 Use
Tagmout Sidi M’Zal Accommodation. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 Suggested
Ihouzine M’Zal Food & Drink. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
Tafraout Town Plan. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 Climbs
| Page Souvenirs & Carpets. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
Vegetation. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 Tafraout
0:30 Sidi 153 Wildlife. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 Granite
The Climbing. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27 Anergui
Ameln Valley | Page 68 Equipment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28 Ameln
Ethics . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28 Valley
nat Aguchtim Tizi Igherm Fixed Anchors . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28 Tarakatine
N’Tarakatine Junction The Environment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29 Pass
Access. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29 Sidi M’Zal
Tizgut Sidi Tarakatine New Routing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29
Pass How to use this Guidebook. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 Jebel Taskra
Abdeljabbar Online Maps and GPS. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30
Grades . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31 Idaougnidif
0:10 Suggested Crags and Venues. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32
Other Things to do. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 Afantinzar
0:20 Climbing Areas
Tafraout Granite . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37 Samazar
Idekel Anergui . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54
Ameln Valley. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68 Aouguenz
Taghzout Tarakatine | Page 130 Tarakatine Pass . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 130
Sidi M’Zal Area. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 153 Tagzene
Amarkhssin Jebel Taskra. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 190
ADRAR MQORN Idaougnidif Area. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 229 Tagmout
Afantinzar. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 273
Samazar. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 349 History
Aouguenz Road . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 406
Tagzene. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 430 Index
Tagmout . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 440
6 INTRODUCTION | Crag Selector Area Map Page 4
Area Map Crag Name Page <V.Diff Severe VS E1-E3 E4-E6 E7>
Crag Pitches
A. Tocho de Tafraout Drive Sunny Shady Kids Hitch Handy Bolted <F4 F5 F5+ F6 F7 F8>
Selector B. El Lanchar Walk
Intro C. Almond Buttress
The D. Tazka’s 2nd Dome 38 1-5 0:05 0:05 211
E. Imyane
Climbing F. Flake Quake 39 3 0:05 0:15 1
How to G. Wildcat Wall
H. High Sierra Tor 40 6 0:05 0:10 1
Use I. Eflodne
Suggested Tafraout Granite J. Painted Rocks 41 1-4 0:05 0:10 1 32
Area map p37
Climbs 43 1-2 0:05 0:10 21
Tafraout 44 3 0:05 0:10 1
Granite
Anergui 45 1-2 0:05 0:10 43
Ameln
Valley 46 4 0:10 0:15 1 1 4 3 1
Tarakatine
Pass 50 1-4 0:10 0:05 1 44
Sidi M’Zal
52 1 0:15 0:02 11
Jebel Taskra
Anergui A. Anergui Playground 55 1 0:40 0:02 45
Idaougnidif Area map p54 B. Anergui Lower Crag 57 6-8 0:40 0:15 181
C. Anergui Upper Crag 59 2-10 0:40 0:40
Afantinzar D. Jebel el Kest 64 Many 0:40 0:10 10 3
1
Samazar
A. Blue Spring Crag 72 1 0:15 0:10 2373
Aouguenz
B. Tagdicht Crags 74 Many 0:30 0:45 1
Tagzene
C. Black Crag, Tazult 76 1 0:10 0:30 2 1 11 5
Tagmout
D. Lion’s Face 78 Many 0:10 Long 27
History
E. Crag K, Asgaour 81 2-3 0:10 0:40 4 11 3
Index
F. Mosque Valley Slabs 86 1 0:10 0:50 1138
G. Palm Tree Gorge 88 1 0:10 0:15 2 13 2 13 4
Ameln Valley H. Crag N 94 4 0:15 1:00 52 1
Area map p68
I. Tizgut Gorge 96 1-4 0:20 0:30 1 6 34 8 2
J. Upper Prophet Peak 106 Many 0:20 0:45 1
K. Prophet Peak 109 Many 0:15 1:30 2
L. White Tower 113 6 0:15 1:30 62
M. Point 1937 118 2 0:15 2:00 1
N. Hidden Wall 120 3-4 0:15 1:40 23
O. Profanisaurus Pinnacle 121 1 0:15 1:40 21
P. Tifghalt Lower Crag 122 6-8 0:15 1:00 19
Q. Tifghalt Upper Crag 124 5 0:15 1:20 5
R. Crag W 127 5-7 0:20 1:00 1 75
Tarakatine A. Tarakatine Crags 130 1 0:20 0:10 60 83 24 4
Area map p130 B. Adrar Idekel 1
151 - 0:20 0:15
A. Fylde Crag 154 3-4 0:30 0:30 1 44
B. Greek Buttress (NC)
C. Arch Wall (ND) 157 6-7 0:35 0:50 57
D. Dinosaur Wall
Sidi M’Zal Area E. Tizi Gzaouine Crags 160 5-6 0:35 1:00 124
Area map p153 F. Douwalus Crags
G. Boar Walls 162 2-4 0:35 0:30 3 16 2
H. Tifradn Crags 1
164 1 0:40 0:05 10 10 13 8
2
170 1 0:45 0:15 56 20 9 2
184 1-3 0:50 0:40 1352
186 1 0:50 0:10 8 12 5 1
Jebel Taskra A. Tramline Slabs 192 2-4 1:00 0:45 3 5 22 17
Area map p190 B. Asseldrar Thumb 200 8-12 1:00 0:30 362
C. Tifghelt Buttress 206 1-2 1:10 0:40
D. Echo Wall 209 2 1:10 0:20 2691
141
Area Map Page 4 Crag Selector | INTRODUCTION 7
Crag Name Page <V.Diff Severe VS E1-E3 E4-E6 E7> Area Map
Pitches Crag
Drive Sunny Shady Kids Hitch Handy Bolted <F4 F5 F5+ F6 F7 F8>
Walk Selector
Intro
E. Tifghelt Frontal Facets 210 2-3 1:10 0:10 4 13 9 1 The
Jebel Taskra F. Snowman’s Bluff 212 1-2 1:15 0:20 17 Climbing
Area map p190 How to
G. Taskra East Pillars 215 5-6 1:15 0:15 461
Use
H. Taskra Bastion 219 3-4 1:15 0:40 6 Suggested
I. Imrir Crags 222 1-2 1:15 0:40 5 17 4 Climbs
A. Amzkhssan Wall 230 3-4 1:00 0:02 721 Tafraout
B. Tassila Bastion Granite
Idaougnidif Area C. Adrar Iffran 232 1 1:05 0:10 571 Anergui
Area map p229 D. Arrow Rock Ameln
E. Adrar Asmit 236 2-5 1:05 0:30 1 12 9 3 Valley
F. Shepherd’s Crag Tarakatine
G. Adrar Umlil 243 1 1:05 0:40 153 Pass
Sidi M’Zal
244 4-7 1:05 1:00 12231
Jebel Taskra
249 1 1:05 0:20 52921
Idaougnidif
252 2-5 1:05 1:00 7 17 22 33 4
Afantinzar
A. Ighir Crags 275 5-7 1:15 0:30 1 4 10 3
41 Samazar
B. Akida – Golden Cirque 280 2-3 1:15 0:35 2
28 Aouguenz
C. Harram Peak 282 5-7 1:15 1:00
2 1 3 11 Tagzene
Afantinzar D. The Sanctuary 283 6-7 1:15 0:20 4 24
Area map p273 Tagmout
E. Lower Eagle Crag 286 6-9 1:15 0:20 4 12 27 1
38 32 39 14 4 History
F. Upper Eagle Crag 294 4-7 1:20 0:35 1 12 40 33 5 1
Index
G. Griffin Rock 300 1 1:20 0:10 4
H. Anammer Crags 306 1 1:15 0:05
I. Ksar Rock 326 1-4 1:15 0:10
A. Igiliz & Agouti 350 4+ 1:30 0:05 2783
B. Sif Rock 357 2-4 1:30 0:05
C. Aylim – Great Rock 358 Many 1:40 0:20 2 1
D. Waterfall Walls 369 Many 1:45 0:25
E. Dragon Rock 372 1-6 1:45 0:25 2 4 10 3
F. Safinah 392 6-10 1:45 0:25
Samazar G. Aguerd Cioch 394 3-4 1:40 0:10 551
Area map p349 H. Icebox Canyon 396 2-3 1:25 0:20
I. Afantztgult 401 Many 1:30 0:15 1 10 32 33 4
22
1 83
4 12 4
142
A. Col Crags 408 1-2 1:00 0:10 2 11 13 6
B. Temple Slabs
Aouguenz Road C. Hairpin Slabs 412 1-4 1:05 0:10 9632
Area map p406 D. Azumer Crag
E. Faulty Towers 416 4 1:15 0:10 356
F. June Slabs
G. Kakaa Wall 420 1 1:15 0:10 7 19 21 7 1
424 1-3 1:45 0:15 10 13 1
428 3-4 1:45 0:20 223
429 3-4 1:45 0:15 2
Tagzene A. Tagzene Gorge 430 1 1:15 0:10 12 8 8 4
Area map p430 B. Babouche Buttress 436 5 1:20 0:15 2 61
C. Orange Wall 438 1 1:20 0:05
6 10 5
A. Dwawj Slabs 442 3-5 0:55 0:10 1 3 13 8
B. Adrar Imtwan
Tagmout C. Belvedere Buttress 444 3-4 1:05 0:40 11
Area map p440 D. Akaltine Edge
E. Robin Hood Rocks 445 1 0:45 0:05 3
F. Maid Marion Rocks
446 1 0:45 0:05 6 7 12 2
450 1-2 0:40 0:10 16 36 28 7
468 1 0:20 0:05 11 12 14 2
8 INTRODUCTION Overview Map Page 4
Area Map Introduction evidence of those who have passed before.
A keen eye for route-finding will, therefore,
Crag Welcome to Tafraout – a magical climbing make the difference between a pleasant ascent
Selector of a classic route, and a ‘brilliant’ off-route
oasis on the doorstep of Europe: a place where adventure.
Intro you can enjoy winter sun, good quality rock, Tafraout, however, is more than just another
and adventurous traditional climbs amidst the winter-sun climbing destination: it is a
The stunning sub-Saharan scenery. This is a place fascinating cultural journey, brimming with
Climbing with a little bit of everything, from roadside character, overflowing with adventure, and
How to cragging, bouldering, and even the odd sport under-written by a bizarre colonialism. Climbers
route, to epic mountain adventures. It’s a motivated solely by grades and technical
Use paradise of enchanting pink granite and endless difficulty will perhaps miss out on Tafraout’s
Suggested orange quartzite; a place immersed in an exotic greatest pleasures. Those who climb for the
culture and a relaxed attitude to life, where only experience, the adventure, and arrive with a
Climbs the most adventurous tourists have ventured. healthy sense of humour, on the other hand,
For climbers who live and breathe traditional, are about to discover something very special
Tafraout ground-up climbing it’s hard to imagine a more indeed...
Granite suitable and convenient winter destination.
Those who thrive on solitude, adventure, and a Online Resources
Anergui closeness to nature, need look no further.
As a climbing destination, Tafraout has Before you visit Tafraout, make sure you visit
Ameln rocketed into public awareness in recent our website for latest updates, free stuff, and
Valley years, but despite constant attention from discounts:
Tarakatine European climbers since 1991, the vast area
Pass of Jebel el Kest and the Anti-Atlas mountains www.climb-tafraout.com
easily absorbs the influx of visitors. Climbing Online trip planner, with flight, car hire and
Sidi M’Zal here is rather like stepping back in time to a accommodation advice.
period when unclimbed lines still littered our Exclusive discounts on Tafraout hotels.
Jebel Taskra hillsides. Here you will find no polish on the Packing lists, maps, and other useful resources
rock, and with the exception of some chalk for your trip.
on the most popular routes, you will see little Free downloads, including topos and maps.
Guidebook updates and new-route information.
Idaougnidif
Afantinzar
Samazar
Aouguenz
Tagzene
Tagmout
History
Index
Overview Map Page 4 INTRODUCTION 9
Katja Broadbent on The Scoop (VS 4c)
at Akaltine Edge. Page 446. Area Map
Crag
Photo: Steve Broadbent
Selector
Intro
The
Climbing
How to
Use
Suggested
Climbs
Tafraout
Granite
Anergui
Ameln
Valley
Tarakatine
Pass
Sidi M’Zal
Jebel Taskra
Idaougnidif
Afantinzar
Samazar
Aouguenz
Tagzene
Tagmout
History
Index
10 INTRODUCTION | About this Guidebook Overview Map Page 4
Area Map
Crag
Selector
Intro
The
Climbing
How to
Use
Suggested
Climbs
Tafraout
Granite
Anergui
Ameln
Valley
Tarakatine
Pass
Sidi M’Zal
Jebel Taskra
Idaougnidif
Afantinzar
Samazar
Aouguenz
Tagzene
Tagmout
History
Better than Cenotaph Corner? First climbed by
Index legendary British climber Joe Brown in 1993,
Tizgut Crack (E1 5b) is one of the undisputable
classic climbs of the Ameln Valley. Mark
Stevenson nearing the end of pitch 1. Page 102.
Photo: Steve Broadbent
Gri n Crag Gran 2101 0
Rock 2100 ADRAR AWYIL
1800
About this Guidebook | INTRO22D64UCTION
Hidden VaOlleyvervieUwppMear pEaPgalegeCr4ag2047 2200CAannerygouni A n e21020000 11Tizgui Plateau
Descent Gully 1900
nge South Ridge1800Tizgui Col
ll
2200
2000 2100
1900
2000
1900
2121
2169 North Peak
About this Guidebook AJFTOEAhuBNetEdTwLMohEEoZoLrGleAAKDacEIrWtSeiIvaNTiE2its3y4c3Mova2ep2r1se5d1-a5t
Area Map
West Col West Ridge
Crag
Climbing guidebooks to Tafraout and the 1h:a5n0d20C3ya07ir0A5ns2scAManlcieinenbitMdywaetlphlinsigs, serTiaegdsicohtf Selector
194A9 nti-Atlas have progressed at a staggering rate greBautttrfeossr
1900since Claude Davies’ landmark Cicerone guide rgui M e a d o w sfinding your way to the crag inGreat Ramp Intro
180tf0ihrsetnd, ensoclreibssedthtahne Ameln Valley in 2004. Since Anergui pathtfohreecxapSroluCaotanhririCndnsolgonthfeoorat.nAglesoounsreefsutl- The
10 diffeAreNnEtRbGoUoI SkUs MhaMvIeT been Climbing
pcourbnleisrhseodf,tahsecAlinmtbi-Aertslahsarvaengexep. 2l2o9r2ed ever more
dAaNyGsEaLnPdEAbKad weather days. How to
2000 Use
This latest guidebook describes more than 1900
1800 high quality climbs across the entire 1800 Suggested
range, providing a ‘one-stop-shop’ not only 1700 Climbs
for first-time visitors, but also those people 1600
making multiple repeat visits. Although it is a 1500
selective guide, instead of choosing the best Long Crag UPAPNEERRCGRUAIGRa2n2g36er Maps 1-4
Superb 1:50000 scale maps of
2213the entire Anti-Atlas region.
AnerCgauirinTpCohrloisosfepraiepseirs, printed on tear-
making use of
climbs wcreaghTsaA,vGtehMmuOseUprTeroSlyUvoiMdmMiniIgtTtSeadlmthoest‘pdoeofirneirt’iveBlack Anergui Lloawrgeer A1 sheets of for maximum
quality Pinnacle Cragcoverage.
Crag
coverage of mostEaosfttPheeakworthwhile climbing that 1620 1985 Ranger maps are p17e0r0fect for
2100 Tafraout has to offer, from 1500m adventures to Anergui 1700 1800 Tafraout
2000 techCneinctaral lroPeaadkside c22ra35gging, sport climbing aChnilddren’s playground 1600 Granite
130014001500 Anergui
boulder2i2n2g8. Playground climbers or cyclists looking to Sanglier S
Crag explore the18a0r8ea. Ameln
Mosque Valley
Other Guidebooks IN TH2I0S001S900ERIES Adventurer Maps 1-4 Ta1r2ak0a0tine
Pass
Tafraout Granite For hikers and trekkers wishing
Anergui DrainageWest Peak to explore the Jebel el Kest 1100
es 1600 escarpment on foot, these
2179 An excellent companion to this Sidi M1’Z0a0l0
guidebook, the Tafraout Granite 1:25000 A1 format maps
guide describes 250 routes on 1500 represent the most detailed Jebel Taskra
2100 Tafraout’s gr1a7n00ite tors, all within CTrmCehhhgaeeepsiyoehpsniareienrcegSuCBpprorlrrruaifeinnegtnghtteSlepydrA.aonvnatiiu-lAaltbtrlalae-s.tough
wCartaegrprooAfn, taemamr-peroof paper.
2000 7km aonfdtobwonu,ldi1n6e0c0rliundgi.ng sport, 1400
trad 1300
1500
1900 100 Classic Cl1i4m00bs Road CrotEahgxuWrctBoaeXtouerrfpgfaytlhlssoCoufrurarotgTmtBahf1air2sa0ll0ogo1uu0f0ti0dtahedebvsoeeonmktu,abrpeus,tshthaoePvageelmtebetmrieetaehpneTsiumdcsliaoensdt Idaougnidif
1800 Tlohoiskibnogotkowenilljosuy13i0tt0hcelimclabAsneserirscgui
1700 1200 be purchased in our online store at 900
1600 long mountain routes of the www.climb-tafraout.com
1500 Anti-Atlas. It describes 100 Aglz V aAfantinzar
1400 of the best climbs between Samazar
Difficult and E2, each described Igordan eln
TagmoMutaps in superb1d10e0 ta1i0l0.0 Aouguenz
Mosque
The Anti-Atlas area is covered by four series of Ait Taleb PalmerieA Tagzene
m
GeoGraphics maps, published by the Oxford Mosque
Alpine Club, all of which will be of interest to the P1011 Ait Massoud Asoul Tagmout
climber:
Tourist Explorer Map 1
This double-sided map featuresTagmout Road Northside 900 00History
a 1:750000 road map of Junction 1000Index
southern Morocco, as well as a 1000 1100
Tan t 1:150000 ‘piste map’ of the Anti-1253 900 Tiyiysk 1
Atlas region from Ait Baha to
Tafraout, perfect for exploring
the area by car or on bike.
M
’lal
ZEK AOzruoaud-oOuu-
925
12 INTRODUCTION | When to Visit Overview Map Page 4
Area Map Tafraout, baking under Saharan sunshine in
October. Blue, cloudless skies are common
Crag during early and late season, although it can
Selector still get cold at night.
Intro The centre of Tafraout following a flash flood
in December. Major weather events are rare,
The but can be dramatic when they happen.
Climbing
How to
Use
Suggested
Climbs
Tafraout When to visit November - December
Granite Throughout the winter months the Anti-Atlas Traditionally this is the wet season, but don’t
Anergui have an almost perfect climate for climbing. let that put you off as rain is rarely prolonged
Ameln The long winter season, which runs from late enough to put a stop to climbing. Temperatures
Valley September right through to the end of April, is can get quite chilly, particularly in the shade or
Tarakatine one of the biggest attractions for trad climbers during the evenings, and thermal clothing will
Pass looking to escape the wet European weather. be required. Cloud cover can make the higher
Sidi M’Zal Although Tafraout can see rain at any time crags rather unpleasant, so head for low-lying,
throughout the winter, it is rare and unlikely south-facing routes.
Jebel Taskra to spoil a climbing trip. Likewise, an unusually
cool airmass can sink down from Europe at any January - February
Idaougnidif time, bringing surprisingly chilly temperatures The early Spring can be unpredictable – if the
to the higher mountain crags. Climbers visiting Autumn was wet then January and February are
Afantinzar the area between November and March usually dry, with pleasant temperatures around
are, therefore, advised to bring lightweight 15 to 20 degrees and long periods of clear skies
Samazar waterproofs, whilst thermal shirts or fleeces and perfect climbing conditions. If, however, the
will almost certainly be required throughout Autumn was very dry then rain frequently falls
Aouguenz the season. Of course, during the heat of the in the early Spring.
day, temperatures in the high twenties will
Tagzene necessitate cool, loose clothing when climbing. March - April
Typical conditions are as follows: Spring usually gives excellent climbing
Tagmout conditions, with hot daytime temperatures
September - October (between 15 and 25 degrees) and long periods
History As the summer heat begins to subside in late of sunshine. Exceptionally, winter rain can
September, conditions are usually hot and dry. persist right through to the end of March,
Thunderstorms are possible, though rare, and though this is unlikely. The land is usually green,
prolonged rain is very unlikely. North-facing, with almond blossom and wild flowers creating
high-altitude crags come into their own, a particularly spectacular landscape.
whilst the lower, south-facing crags of the
Ameln Valley can be unbearably hot. Daytime
temperatures vary between 20 and 30 degrees.
Index
Overview Map Page 4 Getting There | INTRODUCTION 13
MARRAKECH Agadir and Marrakech both serve as bases for an Area Map
overland adventure to Tafraout, and direct bus
Essaouira Chichaoua services run from both cities. The best service, routing Crag
AGADIR from Marrakech to Tafraout via Agadir, Inezgane, Ait Selector
ANTI Asni Melloul, Tiznit, Idaousmlal and Ait Wafka is operated
A7 Imi-N-Tanoute by CTM, and tickets can be booked at www.ctm.ma. Intro
Seats on the outbound journey often fill up several
HIGH ATLAS days in advance and so prior booking is advised. For The
the return journey it is usually possibly to book seats Climbing
Taliouine at the CTM office in Tafraout the evening before How to
travel. The bus leaves Tafraout every day at 8am,
Taroudant taking about 9 hours to reach Marrakech. Use
From Agadir it is also possible to reach Tafraout Suggested
MOUNTAINS by Grande Taxi. The airport is located out of town,
Biougra so travellers wishing to benefit from down-town Climbs
Ait Baha L A S Igherm rental rates or take public transport to Tafraout
will need to go by taxi into the city (about 150 Tafraout
- A T Dirhams). The onward journey from Agadir bus Granite
station is usually made via Tiznit, for which it is
Tiznit advisable to negotiate a price before travel (30 Anergui
Dirham is normal). The Grande Taxis will wait until
TAFRAOUT they are full before departing, and this can take Ameln
up to an hour. At Tiznit you will often be dropped Valley
Getting to Tafraout off at the south-eastern side of the town walls, Tarakatine
from where you will need to walk round the Pass
The oasis town of Tafraout (alternatively Tafraoute outside of the walls to Ave du 20 Aout, which runs
or Tafrawt) is located in the Anti-Atlas mountains, out of the wall at Bab Mechouar, on the south- Sidi M’Zal
in the southwest of Morocco. It is most easily western side. The Grande Taxi lot is at the end of
reached by car from Agadir (a 2½ hour drive) or Ave du 20 Aout, where it is easy to get a seat to Jebel Taskra
Marrakech (a 5½ hour drive). Tafraout for about 30 Dirhams.
Flights Climbers’ Airport and Crag Transfers
A number of UK airlines operate services to Although not the cheapest option, private Idaougnidif
Agadir Al Massira, with return flights typically transfers are available through Tafraout-based Afantinzar
costing between £180 and £300 per person. Maison Troc, who offer airport pick-ups, as well Samazar
Ryanair, British Airways, easyJet, Thomas Cook as lifts to and from crags. This service can also be Aouguenz
and Thomson services operate from a variety of useful for hikers wishing to leave their car at one
UK airports, though flights are limited and can be end of a walk. Contact Lahcen on +212 67303909
expensive at short notice. to arrange.
Flying to Marrakech Menara is usually a cheaper
alternative, and most major airlines run daily Hiring a Car
flights from a wide variety of European airports.
Return flights from the UK typically cost between Most climbers visiting Tafraout will want to Tagzene
£130 and £250. hire a car for the duration of their stay, and it is Tagmout
advisable to book online before your trip. All
Public Transport major rental agencies have desks at both Agadir
and Marrakech airports, and good deals have
Hiring a car is strongly recommended, as it makes been found through brokers such as Holiday
it much easier to visit the majority of crags in this Autos and Rhino Car Hire.
book. That said, it is not uncommon for people
to find themselves without private transport, and Although many of the Anti-Atlas crags are History
the following notes will hopefully be of use. accessed via unsurfaced tracks (known as pistes), Index
Tafraout is served by a variety of inter-city 4WD is not necessary provided care is taken. A
bus services and taxis (of the grande and petit standard car typically costs between £150 and
varieties), which make a trip by public transport £200 per week at Agadir or Marrakech airports.
perfectly feasible, if a little adventurous. The quality of cars has been found to be generally
14 INTRODUCTION | Getting There Overview Map Page 4
AGADIR N8
A7 from Atacadao N8 towards A7
Marrakech supermarket and Marrakech
N1 & Decathlon
AGADIR P1009N8 Turn right out of N10
Inezgane airport onto P1714 Inezgane
P1009 Care! Follow signs Big, walled
A7 N10 compound (palace)
to airport
P1714
Ait Melloul P1714 Ait Melloul P1714 to airport
Turn right at roundabout R107
Lkolea and Tafraout DET
onto P1009 AIL
AGADIR
Biougra – see Ad R106
inset detail
R105
BIOUGRA R105 Big quarries
Imi Mqourn Ait Alla Jebel Ta
Steep hill
El Halat
P1009 towards Back street is easiest AIT BAHA Hilala
airport and Agadir way through town on Big reservoir at Winding mountain road
Tlata Uoanass with mileposts showing
Bus station & return to airport Tafraout distances
taxi rank
R105 – slower R105 skra Kasbah Tizourgane
way to Agadir Idaougnidif Madao
BIOUGRA
R105 towards Ait Sidi M’Zal Ait Abdellah
Baha and Tafraout
L Jebel el Kest
BIOU GRA DETAI
Tanalt Ameln
Turn left at Ameln
roundabout
TAFRAOUT rar Mqorn Roundabout with
police check-point
R104
Tahala
S Motorway | Junction | Services
National Route
Regional Route | Town 0km 10km 20km 30km 40km
Provincial Route / Minor Road
Overview Map Page 4 Getting There | INTRODUCTION 15
Best to avoid driving the R212. Continue for approximately 4.2km to a Area Map
into city centre right turn at the edge of the built up area. There
is a useful petrol station here for filling up on your Crag
N8 MARRAKECH return to the airport. Continue north for 5.8km, Selector
Turn left onto Marrakech then turn left on the N8 – this junction is usefully
N8 westbound signposted to the airport on your return journey. Intro
Menara The N8 can either be followed through Oudaya
Speed to the motorway, or take the signposted route via The
bumps the P2006. Climbing
The journey along the A7 motorway leads to
R212 the Agadir/Inezgane/Ait Melloul ring road, takes How to
about 2 hours, and costs approximately 80Dh in Use
tolls.
Suggested
The Drive from Agadir Climbs
Exit airport, turn Agadir Al Massira airport is located conveniently
right onto R212 east of the city, so there’s no need to drive into
Agadir itself. From the airport, turn right and
Turn right at follow the P1714 for 5km to the first major Tafraout
petrol station roundabout. Turn right here and continue to Granite
Biougra. Anergui
Escaping Marrakech This large market town can be very busy during Ameln
rush hour or on market day, when pedestrians, Valley
Although Agadir provides the simplest access donkeys, lorries, oblivious locals, and out-of-their Tarakatine
to Tafraout and the Anti-Atlas, many people depth westerners all share the road into town. Pass
will choose to travel via Marrakech as part of a At night it is worth paying particular attention Sidi M’Zal
wider tour of Morocco, or perhaps to take in the to cyclists, who rarely have lights and frequently
excellent sport-climbing of the Todra Gorge. cycle on the wrong side of the road. Jebel Taskra
Marrakech itself is a superb city and well- The road comes to an end at a major T-junction.
worth a visit in its own right. Countless hotels Turn left here, following the R105 out of town and Idaougnidif
are available to suit all budgets, and the city on towards Ait Baha. A large quarry is passed on
boasts many excellent restaurants that reflect the left, just before the road begins its climb into Afantinzar
its modern and cosmopolitan image, as well the hills, and Ait Baha is reached in approximately
as more traditional tastes. The central square, 45 minutes. Keep going straight on, passing the Samazar
Place Jma el Fna, comes alive every evening town on the right (there is a police station on the
with a fascinating variety of street artists, snake left). Aouguenz
charmers, and vendors serving a baffling array Beyond Ait Baha bear right at the junction (i.e.
of dishes, the likes of which you’re unlikely to follow the main road) and continue until the road Tagzene
find anywhere outside of Africa. Surrounding the snakes past a large reservoir. Just after this there
square is one of the best examples of a Moroccan is a fork, at which you can choose between the Tagmout
Souq (market) that you’ll ever see, and getting high road (more mountainous, with more traffic)
lost amongst its maze of narrow streets is a and the low road (more rural, and probably the History
brilliant way of working up an appetite for a meal safer option). Both of these roads come back
of sheep brain or eyeballs back in the square – together again just before the famous Kasbah Index
assuming you can find your way back, that is. Tizourgane. Here the north side of Jebel el Kest
For car drivers, however, the centre of Marrakech provides a magnificent backdrop to one of the
is best avoided. Frequent buses run from the best examples of a Moroccan Kasbah, and for
airport terminal to the centre of town, so it’s climbers the sense of excitement grows, as vast
usually easier to leave your rental car at the quartzite crags begin to drift in and out of view to
airport and explore the city on foot. the southwest.
At some point, of course, you’re going to want Almost immediately before the walled village
to drive from Marrakech to Tafraout (for some, itself there is a turning to the right that is
this happens sooner rather than later). Exit the sometimes incorrectly sign-posted to Tafraout
airport and turn right at the roundabout onto (this road actually leads to the market town
24 INTRODUCTION | Vegetation & Wildlife Overview Map Page 4
Area Map VEGETATION Argan
As you might expect, most of the vegetation The endemic argan tree has been at the heart
Crag around Tafraout is of the prickly variety and is of the local economy for hundreds of years,
Selector sometimes present on and around climbs. Three providing wood for burning, food for the goats,
plants of particular note are described below. nuts, and of course the extremely valuable argan
Intro oil, which is the region’s most important export.
Prickly Pear The oil is still produced by hand by women in
The This is the common ‘cactus’-like plant that is the local villages, and the numerous argan oil
Climbing seen throughout the region. Its spines are not products available in Tafraout make excellent
very tough, but if brushed against, they will souvenirs and gifts. At the crags, of course, the
How to embed themselves in skin and clothing and argan tree provides welcome shade, but its
Use be particularly inconvenient. The plant was resilient and prickly branches inflict yet more
traditionally used by the local people to create scratches on exploring climbers...
Suggested boundaries to keep out wild boar, and although
Climbs it and its fruit are edible, they don’t seem to be a WILDLIFE
particularly popular food-source. As well as common lizards, ground squirrels,
hares, wild dogs, and domestic cats, the
Tafraout Anti-Atlas is home to a few more hazardous
Granite creatures. Fortunately they are all very timid, and
encounters are rare.
Anergui
Snakes
Ameln Three types of venomous snake have been
Valley reported in Morocco, although sightings are
rare between November and March. Anyone
Tarakatine venturing into the backcountry during the
Pass warmer months (including April and October)
should take particular care.
Sidi M’Zal The Horned Viper is a short, broad snake with a
speckled pattern, found mostly in desert regions
Jebel Taskra and rock outcrops. It is usually nocturnal and
hides in rodent holes or underneath rocks, but it
Idaougnidif Euphorbia can be quick to strike if disturbed. Its highly toxic
Afantinzar This small cactus rarely grows more than 6 or 7 venom attacks red blood cells, and is usually fatal
Samazar inches in height, and plants tend to be found if anti-venom is not given rapidly following a bite.
Aouguenz in relative isolation. Whilst it is common on
Tagzene the south-facing crags of the Ameln Valley, it is
Tagmout fortunately a rare sight around the granite crags.
When disturbed in any way, euphorbia releases
a white milk which is a powerful irritant that can
remain on ropes and clothing for a considerable
time. Whilst it is not dangerous externally, the
effect on skin is similar to a nettle sting. It can be
neutralised with climbing chalk.
History
Index
Overview Map Page 4 Vegetation & Wildlife | INTRODUCTION 25
The longer, slender Rock Viper is a more frequent crags. Due to the difficulties in identifying the Area Map
sight around Tafraout but fortunately very timid. different species, it is worth treating all scorpions
The snake often hides in small shrubs and will as potentially dangerous. Children should be Crag
usually make its presence known in order to give warned of the dangers when playing in the back- Selector
an approaching threat a chance to back away. If country.
this chance is not taken then the viper will attack Intro
in self-defence. If a bite does occur, reassure the Spiders
casualty, gently wash the wound, and evacuate to Fortunately Morocco does not have the range The
medical aid as soon as possible. Do not attempt of poisonous spiders that one might expect, Climbing
to suck out venom, apply pressure, or tourniquet. and indeed there are no spiders that will cause How to
problems for climbers in the region.
The Anti-Atlas mountains are also home to the Use
Egyptian Black Cobra, and attacks by this highly Wild Boar Suggested
dangerous and distinctive snake are usually fatal. Wild boar are prevalent across the Anti-Atlas, and
Fortunately the cobra is a very rare snake, and only evidence of their activities is frequently seen at Climbs
one encounter by a climber has been reported. Rapid crags. Although not inherently aggressive, these
evacuation to medical aid is required in the event of animals could attack if startled, particularly if Tafraout
a bite. young are present. Avoid encounters by making Granite
plenty of noise when approaching undergrowth
Scorpions and dens. Anergui
Worldwide deaths from scorpion stings
outnumber those due to snake bites by ten to Ameln
one, and at least six main species of scorpion Valley
can be found in the desert around Tafraout.
Fortunately, the most common scorpions (brown Tarakatine
or pale-coloured) do not usually pose a serious Pass
threat to humans, but the deadly Androctonus,
or fat-tailed scorpion, has been frequently Sidi M’Zal
sighted in the region and is responsible for a
significant number of human deaths, with over Big Cats Jebel Taskra
60% of encounters occurring during hot summer Any historic big cat population has probably now Idaougnidif
afternoons. died out, although a suspected leopard skull has Afantinzar
Scorpions are nocturnal, preferring to hide under been found in the mountains nearby. Samazar
rocks or in burrows during the daytime. They Aouguenz
are not aggressive creatures, but can easily be Varan
disturbed and climbers are advised to take care If legend is to be believed, then the mighty Tagzene
when sitting on or moving rocks at the base of varan is by far the most dangerous creature to Tagmout
inhabit the landscape around Tafraout, though
encounters are mercifully rare. The varan was History
somewhat exaggerated by Japanese science Index
fiction (weighing 60,000 tonnes with the ability to
fly at mach 1.5), but surprisingly this carnivorous
reptile is very real and sightings have been
reported in the hills around Tafraout. Evidence of
its activities (in the form of mutilated goats) has
also been reported by locals.
Joking aside, the real-life varan is a type of
monitor lizard which grows to a remarkable
1.5m in length. Its ability to fly at mach 1.5 is
unconfirmed but climbers are nevertheless
advised to stay away from deep caves in remote
places (if only because Godzilla is described as
one of its allies...).
26 INTRODUCTION | The Climbing Overview Map Page 4
Area Map
Crag
Selector
Intro
The
Climbing
How to
Use
Suggested
Climbs
Tafraout
Granite
Anergui
Ameln
Valley
Tarakatine
Pass
Sidi M’Zal
Jebel Taskra
Idaougnidif
Afantinzar
Samazar
Aouguenz
Tagzene
Tagmout
History
Index Climbing into the late afternoon sunshine on the
main pillar of Dragon Buttress is one of Samazar’s
most magical experiences.Caroline Culwick on the
top pitch of Goldeneye (E3 5b). Page 378.
Photo: Steve Broadbent
Overview Map Page 4 The Climbing | INTRODUCTION 27
The Climbing ! Beware of Loose Rock Area Map
Crag
One of the appealing things about the climbing The Anti-Atlas are known for the superb quality
here is the tremendous variety on offer, and of the quartzite, but do not be misled – this is Selector
with bouldering, cragging, multi-pitch, and long still an adventurous destination, and routes Intro
mountain routes all within easy reach, every day here have seen very little traffic. Loose blocks The
of a Tafraout climbing holiday can be different. and flakes still lie in wait, even on the more
Fundamentally, the region is split into two popular routes, and climbers should adopt a Climbing
areas, with adventurous, traditionally protected cautious approach. How to
quartzite to the north, and interesting roadside A number of serious accidents have occurred
granite to the south. here when climbers have pulled off large loose Use
blocks, and a worrying number of teams have Suggested
Quartzite had their ropes cut by falling rock.
Climbs
(North of the Ameln Valley, including the Ameln Treat all blocks with suspicion.
Crags, Jebel el Kest, Afantinzar, Samazar, Beware of flat ‘flake edges’ that are often Tafraout
Idaougnidif, Tanalt, and Jebel Taskra). poorly attached. Granite
Quartzite is a unique climbing medium, Always wear a helmet at the crag, even Anergui
producing extremely satisfying low- to mid-grade when you’re not climbing. Ameln
routes with excellent holds, good protection, Think about where you belay, and where Valley
large stances and steep pitches. Many of the rocks are going to fall if your leader pulls Tarakatine
buttresses appear either difficult or unattractive something off. Pass
from the road but on closer inspection reveal Sidi M’Zal
solid rock with some surprisingly easy routes. Granite
Having said that, the Anti-Atlas is not a suitable (South of the Ameln Valley, including Tafraout, Jebel Taskra
place for large groups of novice climbers. Tazka, Aguerd Oudad and the Painted Rocks).
Most of the routes here do not require a high Tafraout itself sits in a bowl of granite tors which Idaougnidif
level of skill, strength, or fitness – instead provide an eclectic mix of bouldering, sport, and
they advocate careful movement, thoughtful esoteric trad. The molten rock which made this Afantinzar
protection, and plenty of big-route experience. spectacular landscape cooled slowly, creating
This is adventure trad-climbing at its very best, large abrasive crystals that aren’t always well Samazar
where skilful route-finding, prudence, yet a attached, and this, combined with a lack of
confident approach, will be rewarded with some weathering, has created the rather crumbly rock Aouguenz
incredible climbing. that is a feature of Tafraout granite climbing.
Less experienced parties are advised to choose Intense heating during the summer further Tagzene
their initial routes with care, as the comfortable worsens the problem, creating an abundance of
atmosphere of quartzite climbing can often mask exfoliating flakes of all sizes. Tagmout
the seriousness of many of the longer routes. The In amongst the acres of poor rock, however, are
quality of the quartzite varies from immaculate to isolated pockets of excellent climbing on good History
dangerous, and unless care is taken it is possible quality granite. Indeed, no trip to Tafraout is
to stray quickly onto worryingly unstable ground. complete without at least one day exploring this Index
On the majority of faces, however, the rock is remarkable landscape, in which you’ll find some
amazingly sound and almost always better than of the best slab climbs and best off-width cracks
it looks from below. In general, it is only the very that the Anti-Atlas have to offer.
pale orange rock that crumbles, but care should
always be taken with large blocks which could
be loose in any situation. Much of the climbing
is up steep pitches on excellent positive jugs –
how they remain attached is a mystery, but the
quartzite always seems to be stronger and more
solid than you’d expect.
28 INTRODUCTION | Ethics Overview Map Page 4
Area Map The Climbing In recent years a number of bolted lines have
Crag appeared on quartzite crags, and although these
The incredible quality of Tafraout’s quartzite has have predominantly been single pitch cragging
Selector always been one of the area’s biggest draws. venues, alarming reports of a bolted line up the
Intro The quartzite region includes all crags from the Lion’s Face itself hint at a potential conflict in the
The Ameln Valley northwards, where climbers can future. To date, these isolated bolted routes have
enjoy surprisingly low-grade routes up steep been established with an apparent disregard
Climbing walls on huge, satisfying holds. for – or lack of knowledge of – the ‘local’ ethic:
How to Routes vary from friendly single-pitch outings in some cases accidentally retro-bolting existing
to long full-day mountain adventures. Whilst traditional climbs.
Use walk-ins are generally quite short, descents can Although it is impossible to dictate how people
Suggested be long and involved, and almost impossible to enjoy the natural environment, climbers are
locate in the dark. Overnight temperatures
Climbs at 2000m drop nearly to freezing, strongly encouraged to help maintain the
and all parties setting off on adventure trad ethic in the Anti-Atlas and
Tafraout long routes should carry spare preserve its unique appeal.
Granite clothing, food, head torches, and Please do not place bolts on the
Anergui a survival blanket at the very least. quartzite of Jebel el Kest or Jebel
Ameln Unplanned bivouacs are neither Taskra, either for protection or
Valley pleasant, nor uncommon. anchors.
Tarakatine Some mobile phone coverage is On the granite tors around Tafraout
Pass evident, so it’s always worth carrying and Aguerd Oudad, on the other
Sidi M’Zal a phone in your pack in case medical hand, bolting has been the norm since
assistance is required, though no organised
Jebel Taskra mountain rescue service exists. A selection of the earliest days of climbing in the region.
useful numbers can be found on page 4. Climbers placing bolts on the granite are
Idaougnidif To the south of Tafraout, an incredible landscape encouraged to bolt responsibly, using modern
of granite tors provide a spectacular setting for stainless steel bolts. Power drills are currently
Afantinzar some less committing but equally challenging acceptable in the area, so there should be no
cragging. excuse for tiny holes and unsafe bolts. Likewise,
Samazar if you are going to bolt a route then please bring
EQUIPMENT enough hangers – there has been a trend for
Aouguenz stealing hardware from neighbouring routes: a
Protection is generally good, and pitches can be practice that spoils the enjoyment of this area for
Tagzene quite long, so a comprehensive rack is advisable. future visitors.
In general, the rock is well suited to camming
Tagmout devices, and a full set, with some doubles, will Fixed Anchors
be required on longer routes. A set of nuts and
History a few hexes will complete a typical Anti-Atlas On popular crags a number of shared rappel
rack, along with extra slings and a good range of routes have been equipped with steel cables or
Index extenders and quickdraws. chains in order to avoid ever-increasing amounts
of nylon ‘tat’ which is unsightly and does not fare
Ethics well over the summer in the Saharan Sun. This
work has been funded and supported by Climb-
Despite it being 20 years since the first British Tafraout and the local population.
pioneers began to open up the quartzite crags of
the Anti-Atlas, Jebel el Kest is still a ‘developing’
destination. Today, a huge variety of climbing
styles, ever-increasing visitor numbers, and
the proximity to Tafraout’s granite sport crags
create the potential for conflicting ethics in the
region, particularly given the lack of historical
foundation. Quartzite provides an ideal medium
for adventurous traditional climbing, with a
combination of solid natural protection and
challenging un-protectable walls which will
provide obvious temptation to bolters.
Overview Map Page 4 The Environment | INTRODUCTION 29
The Environment Anti-Atlas Anchor Fund Area Map
It goes without saying that all visitors to the If you enjoy climbing in the Anti-Atlas please Crag
Anti-Atlas have a responsibility to preserve the consider making a donation to the anchor fund, Selector
natural landscape, as this magnificent and fragile to help us re-equip bolted routes and abseil
climbing environment will not last long if we anchors in the Tafraout region. Intro
do not respect and look after it. Morocco is a Donate online at www.climb-tafraout.com
relatively poor, developing Arabic country, and The
those unfamiliar with such cultures are urged NEW ROUTING Climbing
to take heed of advice given in the introductory There is still scope for new-routing in the How to
chapters of this guide. By doing so we will help mountains around Tafraout, and for those with
to preserve the unique appeal of Tafraout’s the relevant skills and experience this can be Use
climbing, its stunning landscape, and important one of the most enjoyable aspects of a trip to Suggested
relations with the native Berber people for whom Tafraout. Be warned, however – the quartzite is
these hills have provided an existence for the best dangerously loose in places, and there’s no one to Climbs
part of 3000 years. rescue you if it all goes wrong. Climb within your
capabilities, take care out there...And please, no Tafraout
Respect the customs and religion of the bolts on the quartzite! Granite
local people. If you do climb a new route in the region, please
record it in the Livre d’Escalade which is kept Anergui
Do not drop litter, even though there may behind reception in the Hotel Les Amandiers. This
already be ‘local’ rubbish lying on the ground. fascinating document is the definitive source of Ameln
route information and makes an interesting read Valley
Please don’t leave toilet paper at the foot of on a rest day in Tafraout. For climbers staying Tarakatine
the crag. This has become a particular problem on the north side who do not get a chance to Pass
at Ksar Rock. visit Tafraout, a smaller ‘book of climbs’ has been
started at the Kasbah Tizourgane. Sidi M’Zal
Try not to damage ancient terraces or walk Details of routes should also be entered online
across cultivated land. at www.climb-tafraout.com, or emailed to new- Jebel Taskra
[email protected] for inclusion in
Keep noise to a minimum and adopt a ‘low- future editions of this guidebook. Idaougnidif
impact’ approach at all times.
www.climb-tafraout.com Afantinzar
ACCESS
Samazar
Many of the crags described in this guidebook
lie within, or are approached via land that is Aouguenz
used by the rural Berbers for agriculture. As well
as this, several crags overlook settlements and
make use of private tracks for access. At the time
of publication the local people are very friendly
towards climbers, and no access problems have
been reported. In order that this remains the
case, all climbers are asked to adopt a low-impact
approach when climbing near habitation.
Tagzene
Tagmout
History
Index
30 INTRODUCTION | How to Use Overview Map Page 4
Area Map Online Maps and Gps
Crag It should be possible to locate all of the climbing in this book without the use of GPS or online maps,
Selector although online mapping is available for those who wish to use it.
Google Maps is the most commonly used application, and whilst it will not currently give step-by-
Intro step driving directions in Morocco, it can be very useful for locating crags. Latitude and longitude
coordinates can be entered directly into Google in the given format. For example, to find the parking
The for Great Slab, simply enter 29.75274, -8.93448 into Google Maps.
Climbing Alternatively, scan the blue QR code from the map to get a direct link to the Google Maps location.
Step-by-step driving directions are not currently available in Google, but are provided in applications
How to such as Maps.Me, using Open Street Map data. Although not as reliable as Google, this application is
Use useful for navigation when driving further afield in Morocco.
A third useful application is Locus Map, which provides GPS tracking and a variety of map overlays.
Suggested This is the recommended app for use with the black crag-location QR codes throughout this book.
Climbs
Tafraout HOW TO USE THIS GUIDEBOOK Route Descriptions
Granite The following symbols are used to highlight the
Anergui This guidebook covers a large and complicated character of individual routes:
Ameln region, as well as a huge variety of climbing
Valley styles and route lengths. As a result, applying a This route requires big gear (typically size 5
Tarakatine consistent approach to the descriptions has been or 6 camming devices).
Pass challenging. The following notes should help you This route requires crack-climbing techniques
Sidi M’Zal find your way around... such as jamming.
A narrow crack – this route relies on small
Jebel Taskra Layout, Maps and Geography. wires for protection.
The climbing has been broken down into 12 Fingery climbing on crimps.
Idaougnidif distinct chapters corresponding to geographic A steep or pumpy climb for its grade,
areas. They are listed in coloured thumb-tabs requiring big biceps!
Afantinzar down the side of each page. A delicate slab route with some balancy
On the first page of each chapter is a 1:50 000 friction moves.
Samazar scale approach map, showing the location of the This climb is well-protected and therefore
crags in that area. In the header bar at the top of reasonably safe for its grade.
Aouguenz every page is a reference back to the area map A bold climb with poor protection or long
page. run-outs... requires a cool head.
Tagzene A whole-area overview map is included on page
4, showing the relative locations of all of the A long adventurous outing for which a sense
Tagmout chapter area maps. of humour is advised.
This route has not been checked or details
History Crag Information Box were unavailable. The line on the topo may
Each crag description starts with an information be wrong.
Index box giving background information and Some spiky vegetation might be
approach details. The following symbols are used encountered on this climb.
to give an overview of the style of crag: This route can be rather lichenous or mossy
and is not advised in wet weather.
Sunshine available. Friable rock - This will not usually detract
from the route for teams with some
Shade available. experience of adventure climbing.
This climb requires an abseil descent, for
Shade which equipment may not be in-situ.
This crag is suitable for families with small
Families children.
This crag can be reached without a car,
Hitch either by walking, hitching, or cycling.
A roadside crag.
Roadside
Overview Map Page 4 Grades | INTRODUCTION 31
On crags where there is a mix of traditionally Sport Climbs Area Map
protected and bolted routes, the following Bolt-protected sport climbs are graded using
additional symbols are used: the French system, which describes the overall Crag
difficulty, taking into account how technically hard Selector
A traditionally protected climb (only the moves are as well as how sustained they are.
indicated on granite crags). In the above example, the E1 5b might be F6b, Intro
This route is protected by a mix of bolts and whereas the HVS 5b might by F5c.
traditional gear. An approximate comparison between various The
A bolt-protected route. This does not always grading systems is shown on the table below. Climbing
mean that hangers are in place, or that a
route is totally safe. Long run-outs common. Topo Lines How to
A well-bolted sport climb, requiring only Throughout this guidebook, route lines are colour Use
quickdraws. coded by grade as shown in the table below.
Additionally, sport routes are shown with a yellow- Suggested
Topo Symbols dashed line, whilst trad routes have white dashes. Climbs
The following symbols are shown on topos:
Adjectival UK USA French Aus Tafraout
A typical time to approach this sector from 5.1 Granite
0:40 the nearest car-parking (in minutes). Anergui
Difficult 5.2 Ameln
This sector usually gets sunshine Valley
throughout the day. Very 5.3 10 Tarakatine
This sector gets sunshine during the Difficult 11 Pass
AM morning / afternoon as indicated. 5.4 12 Sidi M’Zal
This sector is usually in the shade – A good Mild 4a 13
Shade choice in hot weather. Severe 14 Jebel Taskra
5.5 15
Grades 16 Idaougnidif
Severe 4b F4 17
The grading of routes is always a contentious task, 5.6 Afantinzar
and inevitably reflects an element of personal 18
opinion. The difficulty is compounded by the huge Hard Mild Very 4c 5.7 F4+ Samazar
variety of climbing in the Anti-Atlas, as it is hard Severe Severe 19
to compare the challenges of a 1500m mountain 20 Aouguenz
route to those found on a single-pitch crag climb. Very 5a 5.8 F5a 21
Users of this guide should, therefore, treat the Severe F5b Tagzene
grades with a degree of caution, perhaps starting 5.9 F5c 22
with easier routes until familiar with the style of E1 Hard Very 5b 5.10a F6a Tagmout
climbing here. 5.10b F6b 23
Severe History
Trad Climbs 5.10c F6c 24
These are graded using UK trad grades. This is E2 5c 5.10d Index
a two-part grading system, involving both an E4 E3 5.11a F7a
adjectival grade and a tech grade. 5.11b
The adjectival grade describes the overall 6a 5.11c F7b
difficulty of a route, taking into account how well E5 5.11d
protected it is and how sustained it is. 5.12a
The tech grade describes how technically difficult 6b 5.12b
the hardest move is on a route. E6 5.12c
For example, a route on which the hardest move
is UK tech 5b would be given E1 5b if it was very 6c
bold or very sustained, or HVS 5b if it was safer and
had fewer hard moves.
100 AMELN VALLEY | Tizgut Gorge | East Wall Area Map Page 70
Area Map 26 30
Crag 25
25 32
Selector 24 26 31
Intro
The 27 30
28
Climbing 29
How to
Use
Suggested
Climbs
Tafraout
Granite
Anergui
AAmmeellnn
VVaallleeyy
Tarakatine
Pass
Sidi M’Zal
Jebel Taskra
Idaougnidif
Afantinzar
Samazar
Aouguenz
Tagzene
Tagmout
History
Index
Area Map Page 70 East Wall | Tizgut Gorge | AMELN VALLEY 101
Map page 96 AM 0:35 The East Wall (Crag S) Area Map
PM 0:35
The steeper, right (true left) side of the Tizgut Crag
36 Gorge is home to some of Tafraout’s most famous Selector
test-pieces. Routes are described from left to right,
working down the gorge from the upper left end. Intro
34 35 24.Trivial Pursuit Severe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . The
33 40m. The slabby ground at the top of the main gorge gives Climbing
one of the crag’s few good easy climbs. How to
Joe Brown & Pete Turnbull, 1996. Use
Suggested
25.French Frivolities VS 4c . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
70m. A minor variation to Yer Tiz. Climbs
1) 50m (4b) As for Yertiz, but continue up the slab to the
ledge at the top of the long corner of Salus. Tafraout
2) 30m (5a) Finish up the wall above the ledge. Granite
Anergui
Marie Desportes & Remi Songeon, November 2019. Ameln
Valley
26.Yer Tiz HVS 5a . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Tarakatine
70m. Pleasant climbing, starting 3 metres left of Salus. Pass
1) 40m (4b) Climb the crack, then a right-trending ake to Sidi M’Zal
belay on Salus.
2) 30m (5a) Pull up right into a slim groove / ramp above Jebel Taskra
and right of Salus. Continue to easier ground.
Idaougnidif
Paul Donnithorne & Don Sargeant, April 2016.
Afantinzar
27.Salus VS 4c . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
80m. Pleasant climbing up the obvious corner, with a long Samazar
rst pitch to a sloping ledge.
Aouguenz
Joe Brown & Pete Turnbull, 2000.
Tagzene
28.Tizgut Rib VS 4c . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
80m. The rib just to the right is one of the crag’s classic ticks Tagmout
and well worth a visit.
History
Joe Brown, Pete Turnbull & Roy Warner, 2000.
Index
29.Ahmed VS 4c . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
100m. A meandering line up the slabby walls.
Joe Brown, Pete Turnbull & Roy Warner, 2000.
30.Tizgud Crack E2 5b . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
120m. This challenging climb starts some 10m left of Tagine,
below the left-hand of two twin cracks.
1) 45m (5b) Climb the crack with considerable di culty up
an ‘Amen Corner’to a groove. Follow this before stepping
left to a belay on Ahmed.
2) 45m (5a) Move back right around the rib to the bottom
of the upper crack. Climb this, with a short excursion onto
the right wall and a superbly positioned nish.
3) 30m (4c) The wall above eventually eases.
Ron Kenyon & Chris King, 2004.
31.Tizgut Diagonal E2 5c . . . . . . . . . . . .
120m. A big route up the left side of the central buttress.
1) Start up Tagine to gain an obvious left-trending diagonal
crack. This leads to a belay below a crack in the upper arête.
2) Climb the crack on the right side of the arête, step right
and nish up a bold slab.
Ian Wilson & Tom Leppert, February 2011.
102 AMELN VALLEY | Tizgut Gorge | East Wall Area Map Page 70
Area Map 32. Tagine E2 5c . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Descent: All routes nish on a broad slanting 28
Crag 125m. A ne and uncompromising alternative to Tizgut 27
Crack. Start up the nger-hand crack and climb for two terrace, from where it is possible to descend either
Selector pitches (5b, 5c) to a belay on top of a pillar. Finish up a left (down-climb required) or right (walking.)
Intro groove as for Tizgut Buttress.
The 24 25
Sean Paling & Val Gillet, 1999. 26
Climbing
How to 33.Wagha Wagha Direct E4 6a . . . . . . . . . . . .
110m. The direct assault of the central wall gives a
Use dramatic and sustained climb. From the good runner
Suggested beneath the overlap of Wagha Wagha Wagha, pull up
leftwards into the intimidating crack to join Tizgut Buttress.
Climbs 34.Wagha Wagha Wagha E3 5c . . . . . . . . . . .
110m. Memorable climbing up the impressive wall left of
Tafraout Tizgut Crack. Follow the tempting thin crack between Tagine
Granite and Tizgut Crack to reach good gear in the overlap. From
Anergui here the most popular option is to step down and traverse
AAmmeellnn rightwards in an exposed position towards Tizgut Crack. It is
VVaallleeyy advisable to leave a runner in-situ to back-rope the second.
Tarakatine
Pass Graham Everitt & W.Szymanovicz, Feb 2011.
Sidi M’Zal
35.Tizgut Crack E1 5b . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Jebel Taskra 100m. Joe Brown’s unmissable quartzite masterpiece is
one of Tafraout’s most famous climbs; and rightly so. The
Idaougnidif epic corner-crack is everything you’d expect, and then a
little bit more, providing a full-on, world-class wide crack
Afantinzar experience. Debates about the grade continue – many
people nd it tough for E1, but it’s soft for E2!
Samazar 1) 35m (5b) Sustained climbing up the unrelenting crack,
which gets wider, harder, and altogether more emotional
Aouguenz as height is gained. Step right to a sloping stance by a huge
ake.
Tagzene 2) 40m (5b) A couple of tricky moves on suspect rock gain
easier ground, from where one nal well-protected move in
Tagmout a steep corner marks the end of the di culties.
3) 20m (-) Easy climbing to the top.
History
Joe Brown, Claude Davies & Trevor Jones, 1993.
Index
36.Tizgut Buttress HVS 5b . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
120m. An intricate buttress climb that wends its way up
the highest part of the crag. Climb the lower buttress to the
right of Tizgut Crack, to belay as for that route at the huge
ake. From here climb through some steep suspect rock
(as for the Crack) before moving leftwards to nish up the
easier left-hand buttress.
Les Brown & Pete Turnbull, 1997.
37.Flying Grandfathers E4 6b . . . . . . . . . . . .
125m. Details of this route are uncertain, but it starts up
the corner immediately right of Tizgut Crack. From a good
belay ledge it takes suspect-looking rock (some ground
probably shared with Tizgut Buttress) to a di cult crack in
the steep ground above. Step left above this to an easier
nish up a corner crack.
W.Szymanovicz, Tom Leppert, Ian Wilson & Graham Everitt, February 2011.
Area Map Page 70 East Wall | Tizgut Gorge | AMELN VALLEY 103
Map page 96 Area Map
PM 0:35
Crag
Selector
Intro
The
Climbing
How to
Use
Suggested
Climbs
33 37 Tafraout
31 36 Granite
Anergui
35 Ameln
Valley
Tarakatine
Pass
Sidi M’Zal
Jebel Taskra
Idaougnidif
Afantinzar
Samazar
Aouguenz
Tagzene
Tagmout
34 History
32 Index
30
29 37
286 AFANTINZAR | Lower Eagle Crag | Bon Courage Wall Area Map Page 273
Area Map E Lower Eagle Crag Shade 0:10 Bon Courage Wall
Crag
Drive from Tafraout: 1:15 This steep, intimidating wall lies between
Selector Shade Families Hitch Roadside Walk-in: 20 minutes The Sanctuary and The Grand Wall. With the
Intro exception of Eagle Spur, the routes here are
The The iconic northwest-facing wall above steep, serious and adventurous undertakings
the village of Anammer is one of the most with a fair amount of moss and vegetation. The
Climbing frequently climbed and photographed pieces wall receives little sunshine and can be a good
How to of rock on the massif. Locally known as Azrol choice during hot weather.
Doutmda, it is commonly referred to by western
Use climbers as Lower Eagle Crag. 1. Eagle Spur HS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Suggested Athough many of the routes here feature large 430m. The long spur up the left side of the Bon Courage
amounts of moss this does not detract from the Wall is a good mountaineering route. Several excellent
Climbs crag’s popularity amongst climbers in search of pitches make up for a scrappy middle section.
high-quality full-day adventures. 1) 20m (-) Easy climbing up a wall to a ledge beneath a
Tafraout The afternoon sun hits the left side of the face steep orange wall.
Granite early in the afternoon and gradually spreads 2) 25m (4a) Climb the steep orange wall to a small
Anergui across all the routes by the end of the day, summit.
Ameln when the wall is a magni cent sight in the 3) 25m (-) Move the belay down to the notch. From here,
Valley evening light. easy climbing leads up leftwards past a large block to a
Tarakatine Approach: At the left-hand end is a long spur ledge below steeper ground.
Pass of rock (Eagle Spur), which marks the eastern 4) 25m (4b) Go up steep cracks then an easier rib to a
Sidi M’Zal extent of the crag. This is easily reached in a stance below a steeper section.
matter of minutes from roadside parking. 5) 40m (4b) Move up then make nice technical moves
Jebel Taskra To the right of this is the steep, intimidating Bon up leftwards through the steep ground. Continue up a
Courage Wall, before the crag swings round pleasant easy rib to a summit.
Idaougnidif onto the main part of the crag – The Grand Wall. 6) 50m (-) Easy scrambling up blocks.
Routes on the Grand Wall are accessed via one 7) 50m (-) Work easily up rightwards to a tree, then climb
Afantinzar of two indistinct trails, marked by small cairns. mossy slabs to a huge terrace.
For routes left of Immacularder, take the Curved 8) 50m (-) Scramble up leftwards, heading for a tree on
Samazar Ridge Trail, which leaves the road at cairns the rib.
a short way downhill from a large roadside 9) 25m (4a) Move down to cross the gully on the left,
Aouguenz boulder. then climb the excellent wall, trending left to a stance
Routes to the right of Pink Lady are best below a wide orange crack / chimney.
Tagzene accessed via the Black Beauty Trail. This is very 10) 30m (4b) Climb the chimney crack then go up broken
indistinct to start, but becomes easier to follow rock to a belay on the ridge.
Tagmout higher up, arriving at the crag at the base of 11) 40m (4a) One of the best pitches of its grade in the
Black Beauty. region! Stride across the gap to gain an immaculate rib
History and follow it in a ne position to a large ledge.
Descent: From the top of the climbs head rightwards over 12) 50m (-) Pleasant easy ground to the top.
Index
the highest point of the crag, then follow a well-cairned trail Paul Donnithorne & Pete Johnson, October 2010 (pitches 1-7);
down the west end (take care not to descend too early). Steve Broadbent, Lina Arthur & Aileen Robertson, October 2018 (pitches 8-12).
Pink Care! Follow cairns.
Lady Don’t descend too
early
Eagle 6 Grand Wall
Spur 2
Curved
1 Ridge
Curved Ridge Parking Curved Ridge Trail Black Beauty Trail
29.811036, -9.063728
Area Map Page 273 Bon Courage Wall | Lower Eagle Crag | AFANTINZAR 287
2.Rickety Rib E2 5b . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . then step right past a loose block to climb the centre of a Area Map
345m. The original and direct line up the Eagle Spur gives slabby face. Belay by a bush.
an adventurous day out with most of the di culties saved 10) 25m (5a) Climb up and right to reach the crack which Crag
for the upper section. forms the top of the groove bounding the right-hand side Selector
1-7) 235m (-) Follow Eagle Spur to the large sloping of the slabby face. Go up this, then move right to nsh up
terrace. From here, trend up right towards the a clean, slabby wall. Intro
intimidating arête that forms the left-hand side of upper
Bon Courage Wall. Geo Cohen & Graham Little, March 2019. The
8-10) 110m (5b) Di cult, bold climbing up the right side Climbing
of the upper arete. At the top, the route moves left into a 4.Bon Courage E1 5b . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . How to
chimney on the left-hand side. 220m. An audacious route that gains and climbs a
prominent black streak on the upper wall. It o ers some Use
Paul Donnithorne & Pete Johnson, October 2010. excellent climbing and a well-positioned crux pitch, but Suggested
unfortunately su ers from moss and vegetation in places.
3. Sharp Practice E2 5b . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1) 25m (4a) Start up a rib to gain a ledge. Climbs
345m. The upper left part of Bon Courage wall, gained 2) 30m (4c) Climb up to cross the middle of a slanting
from the large terrace of Eagle Spur. The hard climbing ramp, then move right to a stance. Tafraout
(pitch 8) starts at the foot of a distinctive yellow roof- 3) 25m (4b) Continue to a ledge beneath the headwall. Granite
capped corner, visible from the valley. 4) 40m (5a) Excellent climbing up the black
1-7) 235m (-) Follow Eagle Spur to the large sloping streak.
terrace.
8) 40m (4b) From the foot of the roof-capped corner, Anergui
traverse left for six metres, then take a direct line
straight up the wall on small, sharp holds. Belay Ameln
on a small ledge. Valley
9) 45m (4c) Move up a couple
of metres Tarakatine
Pass
Sidi M’Zal
Donkey Jebel Taskra
Serenades Idaougnidif
Afantinzar
3
2
Samazar
12
Aouguenz
Tagzene
Tagmout
The Way of the Carpet 11
Seller (Severe)
(not described)
9
4
8 History
7 Index
Overview page 286
1 Eagle Spur starts Curved Ridge Trail PM 0:05
just above road
288 AFANTINZAR | Lower Eagle Crag | Bon Courage Wall Area Map Page 273
Area Map Overview page 286
Shade 0:10
Crag
Selector 2
1
Intro
3
The
Climbing
How to
Use
Suggested
Climbs
Tafraout 4 8
Granite 5
6
Anergui
7
Ameln
Valley
Tarakatine
Pass
Sidi M’Zal
Jebel Taskra
Idaougnidif
Afantinzar 5) 25m (4b) Surmount a bulge and continue to belay rock above here to a ledge, from where three easier pitches
Samazar beneath a wall. gain the top.
Aouguenz 6) 35m (5b) Spectacular, steep climbing leads to a worrying
Tagzene exit rightwards, where care is required with fragile rock. Mike & Marjorie Mortimer, October 2009.
Tagmout 7) 40m (4c) Go across the gully and nish up the rib on the
right. 7.Autopia E2 5b . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
History 60m. This route climbs the larger of two pinnacles, starting
Index Jim Fotheringham & Mike Mortimer, October 2007. from the gap between them.
1) 40m (5b) Follow the crack to roofs, then traverse
5.For Lorne E2 5b . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . rightwards until more steep cracks lead up and left to a
210m. A very steep climb, forging an uncompromising line ledge.
up the steepest part of the cli . The route follows a good 2) 20m (5a) Continue up cracks to the top of the pinnacle
crack line to reach the exposed stance of 7 No Trumps Bid and descend by abseil.
and Made, before nishing up steep rock to the left of that
route. Few details are known, and the climb has seen few Paul Donnithorne & Pete Johnson, November 2010.
repeats.
8.Soiree Mousse HVS 5a . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
L.Brown & M.Mortimer, October 2010. 230m. This route takes the prominent crack to the right of
the pinnacles, leading up to an orange roof. Move right of
6.7 No Trumps Bid and Made E1 5b . . . . the roof to a stance, then traverse around the left-hand side
220m. Intricate climbing, but rather mossy. Start up easy, of the next overhang and continue to join easier climbing
dirty rock to gain a leftward-rising ramp line. Follow this to on Tower Ridge (4 pitches from the base to the end of the
a ne, exposed stance, then move up left to a niche before di culties).
cutting back right to a spike belay. Climb excellent black
Arnaud Viel & Emmanuel Freudenthal, October 2009.
Area Map Page 273 Bon Courage Wall | Lower Eagle Crag | AFANTINZAR 289
Katja Broadbent on the easy upper section of Curved Ridge Area Map
(HVD). After a very taxing first pitch, this enjoyable outing
features lots of easy climbing in a fine setting, providing an Crag
excellent introduction to Anti-Atlas mountain routes. Page 291. Selector
Photo: Steve Broadbent
Intro
The
Climbing
How to
Use
Suggested
Climbs
Tafraout
Granite
Anergui
Ameln
Valley
Tarakatine
Pass
Sidi M’Zal
Jebel Taskra
Idaougnidif
Afantinzar
Samazar
Aouguenz
Tagzene
Tagmout
History
Index
290 AFANTINZAR | Lower Eagle Crag | Grand Wall Area Map Page 273
Area Map Overview page 286
PM 0:20
Crag
Selector Lunchtime
Ledge
Intro
Snoggers’
The Perch
Climbing Black Wall
Belay
How to
Use Partytime
Belay
Suggested
Climbs 12
13
Tafraout
Granite 11
Anergui
Ameln The Way of the Carpet 10
Valley Seller (Severe) 9
Tarakatine (not described)
Pass
Sidi M’Zal 8
Jebel Taskra Curved Ridge Trail
Idaougnidif
Afantinzar
Samazar
Aouguenz
Tagzene
Tagmout
History
Index
Descent: From the top of the climbs head rightwards over
the highest point of the crag, then follow a well-cairned trail
down the west end (take care not to descend too early).
Area Map Page 273 Grand Wall | Lower Eagle Crag | AFANTINZAR 291
PM 0:20 The Grand Wall after that the climbing is no more than ‘Di cult’standard, Area Map
making for a great introduction to the bigger Anti-Atlas Crag
To the right of Bon Courage wall, the crag routes. Start by identifying a clean white rib (taken by Fifty
swings round onto the magni cent northwest- Shades of Grey); the route starts at a small cairn by a narrow Selector
facing Grand Wall, home to some of the best gully just to the right of the clean rib. Intro
routes in the region. 1) 40m (4a) Gain a narrow ledge on the right wall of the The
gully and go along this to the start of the chimney. Move
9. Great White E1 5a . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . out left along a deep ake to a second groove, then make Climbing
250m. Starts at a crack just right of some very smooth steep moves up the face to the left of this. Trend up left to How to
compact slabs. nish up a nal groove to a belay beneath a pinnacle.
1) 45m (4c) Climb the crack and go up easier ground to a 2) 40m. Go around the outside of the pinnacle and scramble Use
ledge. up the easy gully to ledges on the left. Suggested
2) 45m (4c) Go up the slab to reach an easy gully and follow 3) 25m. Climb the clean wall on the left to reach a large
this to the foot of a black cracked groove. Climb this to its ledge. Cross this and belay on the far side, close to bushes. Climbs
top and then step up left to a good stance. 4) 30m. Step left onto the front of the broad buttress and
3) 45m (4c) Go straight up and climb over a bulge, then follow this on good rock to a belay by a small tree. Tafraout
continue slightly rightwards on easier ground to good belays. 5) 20m. Scramble up along the ridge to belay on the col by Granite
4) 30m (4a) Climb easily to the left of, and slightly above, a small bush. Anergui
the foot of a tower. 6) 30m. An excellent pitch on perfect rock, following the Ameln
5) 30m (5a) Step right onto the tower and go up for a few front of the buttress to a good ledge. Valley
metres until a bold move leads to a traverse right into a 7) 20m. Scramble up easy angled ground to belay beneath Tarakatine
groove. Climb up to a ledge, then steeply right to another steeper rock. Pass
good ledge. 8) 30m. Climb up the steeper rock via the easiest line to a Sidi M’Zal
6) 45m (4c) Up the left edge to the top of the tower. spike belay on the right side of the buttress, overlooking the
7) 15m (-) Finish up the slab to easy ground. gully to the right. Jebel Taskra
9) 35m. Go up an easy shallow groove to the top.
Derek Walker, Mike & Marjorie Mortimer, March 2007. Idaougnidif
Steve & Katja Broadbent, January 2018 (pitches 1-4).
10. Fifty Shades of Grey E1 5b . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Steve & Katja Broadbent, April 2007 (pitches 5-9). Photo on page 289. Afantinzar
240m. Starts just uphill from the Great White at an
attractive white rib, just right of a corner with a small tree 12.Donkey Serenades Hard Very Difficult . . . Samazar
at its base. 245m. A popular climb that picks out the easiest way up
1) 35m (4a) Climb the rib to a belay. the curving terrace systems at the left side of the Grand Aouguenz
2) 30m (-) Scramble up the rake to belay right of a black Wall. The route is slightly easier, but more serious than
streak. Curved Ridge as some of the pitches are not well-protected. Tagzene
3) 55m (4b) Climb the crack in the slab left of the dirty Start at a short groove as for Pink Lady.
corner, then trend left across slabs to climb a crack in the 1) 25m. Scramble up the easy groove, then move left and Tagmout
small overlap. climb the slabby ramp to a at ledge below slabs.
4) 30m (4b) Continue directly to a large ledge. 2) 40m. Climb leftwards up bold slabs to gain a hidden History
5) 35m (5b) Climb the corner crack in the centre of the wall, groove at 30m. Go up the left side of this to gain a large
then step left around a block and follow the broken crack ledge with 2 trees (Partytime Belay). Index
up leftwards through overlaps to a niche at the bottom of a 3) 30m. Step onto the wall next to the right-hand tree and
dogleg crack. climb diagonally up leftwards across the slabs to belay at
6) 35m (4c) Climb the dogleg crack to the base of a short the base of a crack in the right side of black-streaked slabs.
slab. Climb the slab on the left, then move right at an 4) 25m. Climb the crack system in the black-streaked slabs
undercut. Continue through steep ground to belay at to a stance.
boulders. 5) 20m. Walk left along the terrace to belay at a small col.
7) 25m (5a) Make a tricky step onto the wall then trend up 6) 45m. Climb straight up left of the steep pillar, then follow
right past a ake to the top. slabs immediately left of the chimney corner to a large
niche below steeper ground.
Mike Mortimer & Pete Johnson, November 2012. 7) 30m. Traverse up leftwards past a corner to a stance at
the end of the ledge system, beneath a groove with a tree.
11. Curved Ridge Hard Very Difficult . . . . . . . . . . 8) 30m. Go up the groove past the ancient tree, and nish
270m. The vague ridge-line up the left side of the Grand up easier ground.
Wall gives a ne mountaineering day out with grand views.
The exciting rst pitch is steep and challenging (4a), but Seshadri Nadathur & Caroline Culwick, April 2008.
292 AFANTINZAR | Lower Eagle Crag | Grand Wall Area Map Page 273
Area Map Lunchtime 17 18
Crag Ledge 16
Snoggers’ Black Beauty
Selector Perch 15 Trail
Intro Black Wall 14
The Belay
Climbing Partytime
How to Belay
Use 12
Suggested
Climbs
Tafraout
Granite
Anergui
Ameln
Valley
Tarakatine
Pass
Sidi M’Zal
Jebel Taskra
Idaougnidif
Afantinzar
Samazar
Aouguenz
Tagzene
Tagmout
13
History
Index
Overview page 286 Descent: From the top of the climbs head rightwards over
PM 0:20
the highest point of the crag, then follow a well-cairned trail
down the west end (take care not to descend too early).
Area Map Page 273 Grand Wall | Lower Eagle Crag | AFANTINZAR 293
13.Pink Lady VS 4c . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3) 50m (5a) A tricky start gains easier climbing above. Area Map
230m. A tremendous way up the face, giving one of Continue up to a corner, then follow this through a bulge to
the most popular routes of its type in the Anti-Atlas. The belay below a tree. Crag
climbing is not sustained, but features a couple of short 4) 50m (5b) Move up right into a technical groove, then Selector
cruxes in splendid situations. It is described here with the make tricky moves onto the right-hand rib. Continue up a
full 9 pitches in order to provide options in case of tra c crack and weakness in the overhang, then climb up slabs Intro
jams, as this is one of very few routes in Tafraout where above, heading up left to reach a big ledge.
queues have been known to develop. In reality, parties 5) 60m (4c) Finish up a groove line left of the overhangs. The
usually complete the climb in 5 rope-lengths. Climbing
1) 30m (-) Easy climbing up a short groove, then make an airy Emma Alsford & Paul Donnithorne, March 2007 How to
step left and climb an easy slab to a narrow grassy ledge.
2) 20m (4a) Follow pleasant slabs to a poor stance at the 16. Moroccan Gold E2 5b . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Use
foot of the chimney groove. 210m. The chimney and grooves 5m right of the black Suggested
3) 20m (4c) Excellent technical climbing up the chimney leads streak give another good outing.
to a large ledge (The Partytime Belay). 1) 25m (4c) Emma’s Chimney – Climb the chimney to a Climbs
4) 25m (-) Continue up the easy groove above the ledge, small stance on the right.
then trend up right to a stance below the steep pillar. 2) 30m (5b) Climb up then move left into a hanging groove. Tafraout
5) 25m (4a) Good climbing, trending slightly right to a Follow this, and a second groove to a ne ledge. Granite
belay beneath a black wall (The Black Wall Belay). 3) 55m (5b) An excellent and involved pitch, taking slabs
6) 25m (4c) A superb rising traverse left, up the obvious and grooves to bulges. Go up through these to a ledge Anergui
groove, leads to the arête. Step back right and go up a below an orange bulge.
short groove to a dead-end at the overhang. Unlikely 4) 50m (5a) Follow a diagonal crack on the right, then trend Ameln
moves rightwards hopefully reveal a hidden jug above the up leftwards over slabs and bulges to a ledge. Valley
overhang, which facilitates an airy swarm onto a sloping 5) 50m (4b) Finish directly. Tarakatine
ledge (The Snoggers’ Perch). Pass
7) 30m (4b) Bridge up the black chimney, exiting left at the Emma Alsford & Paul Donnithorne, March 2007.
top. Finish straight up steep ground on good holds to a large Sidi M’Zal
ledge system (the Lunchtime Ledge). 17.Pale and Interesting E1 5a . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
8) 15m (-) Scramble up an easy groove to belay below the 200m. Another direct line up the wall, starting up the rst Jebel Taskra
left end of the arching overhang. pitch of Moroccan Gold.
9) 45m (4b) Climb up to the right of a right-facing undercut 1) 25m (4c) Emma’s Chimney – Climb the chimney to a Idaougnidif
corner to gain a fascinating hand-traverse left under the small stance on the right.
roof. This leads to another unlikely move, pulling steeply 2) 30m (4c) Traverse horizontally right until di cult moves Afantinzar
through the overhang at a weakness into a right-trending lead up a steep crack to a ledge.
groove and easier nish. 3) 30m (5a) Step left and climb the steep wall over two Samazar
bulges to a ledge under the obvious roof. Pull over the right
P.Johnson & E.Roberts, April 2008. side of the roof and follow a groove to a good ledge.
4) 45m (4c) Continue in the same line.
14.Immacularder HVS 5a . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5) 45m (4a) Easier climbing to another ledge.
210m. The tempting steep orange line, starting 20m left of 6) 25m (-) Easy ground to the top.
the major black streak. Follow a crack to a ledge with a bush
on the arête. From here continue straight up the arête, using Jim Fotheringham & Mike Mortimer, March 2007.
the left wall whenever the ground gets too steep.
18.In nity E4 5c . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Aouguenz
Ben & Marion Wintringham, March 2007. 190m. Two wonderfully contrasting hard pitches providing Tagzene
one of the best and most di cult big climbs in the valley. Tagmout
15.Black Beauty E1 5b . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Start from behind a large boulder.
210m. The obvious broad black streak provides a superb 1) 30m (5c) Gain a tiny groove then trend boldly up and History
natural line, though route- nding is still di cult. Start right to a break. Power up the superb ake crack above to a Index
beneath a crack on the right side of the black streak, about spike belay in a groove.
5m left of a chimney. 2) 40m (5b) Swing right and follow the ne ake for 15m
1) 15m (5a) Go up a right-trending crack, breaking left to before another steep move rightwards through a bulge. Climb
ledges, then traverse up left to a groove with a good stance. an overhung ake to belay on the left end of a large ledge.
2) 35m (5b) A superb, committing pitch with just about 3) 60m (4c) Continue in the same line through black and
enough protection. Climb straight up the black streak until brown bulges.
it is possible to move right into a groove. Continue directly 4) 60m (5a) Direct to the top.
to a stance on the left of the black streak.
Emma Alsford & Paul Donnithorne, April 2008.
The words you are searching are inside this book. To get more targeted content, please make full-text search by clicking here.
Preview of the 2nd edition Morocco Anti-Atlas climbing guidebook, which describes almost 2000 rock climbs in the Tafraout region of Morocco.
Discover the best professional documents and content resources in AnyFlip Document Base.
Search
Climb Tafraout | Morocco Anti-Atlas
- 1 - 35
Pages: