Ibiza Sport Climbs

Cap de Balansat

Isla Blanca

Cap de Rubio

Cap Aubarca

Sant Antoni
Buda

IBIZASanta Eularia
Sport Climbs

IBIZAOxford Alpine Club

Sport Climbs

Oxford Alpine Club

1ST EDITION | By Steve & Katja Broadbent

2 INTRODUCTION Overview Map Page 5

Overview

IBIZAHistory&

Language Sport Climbs

Logistics

1st Edition, April 2020
Wildlife by Steve & Katja Broadbent

Climbing Published and printed in Europe by the Oxford Alpine Club
& Access www.oxfordalpineclub.co.uk

How to ISBN for this volume 978-1-913167-04-2
Use A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library
©2020 Oxford Alpine Club
Cap de All uncredited images and design by Oxford Alpine Club.
Balansat Additional topo drawings by Aileen Robertson
www.coasttocairnart.co.uk
Isla Cartography by GeoGraphics.
Blanca Some maps based on open source data from openstreetmap.org

Cap de
Rubio

Cap
Aubarca

Sant
Antoni

Buda

Santa PLEASE READ THIS!
Eularia
Rock climbing is an inherently dangerous activity, and users of this guidebook should have a full understanding
Index of the risks involved. Although every e ort has been made to ensure the accuracy of information contained
within, the authors and publisher cannot guarantee the accuracy of third-party information – grades, lines and
route descriptions may be wrong, and climbs described in this book may no longer be in a climbable state.
Similarly, the quality of xed gear can be very variable, particularly in a maritime environment such as Ibiza.
Users of this guidebook will require relevant training, skills, and experience in order to judge the reliability of
anchors and in-situ equipment.
Finally, the inclusion of a route in this guidebook does not mean a right of access. Please respect all signs, access
restrictions and rights of way, and do not trespass on private land.

ALL RIGHTS RESERVED

Other than brief quotations for use in reviews, or personal use on a climb, no part of this publication may
be reproduced in any form without written permission from the publisher. Nor should any text, images, or
maps be used for commercial products without permission from and acknowledgement of the publisher. The
publisher accepts no responsibility for any injury or loss caused as a result of using this guidebook. Images and
text contained within this book do not necessarily represent the views or opinions of the Oxford Alpine Club.
Front Cover Photograph: Steve Broadbent on Fisura Ramón (F7a+) at Torre de Lluc, Cap Aubarca.

Overview Map Page 5 Contents | INTRODUCTION 3

CONTENTS 4 Sector Faders 50 Overview
5 Punta Aguila 54
Summary of Crags 6 Es Pouding 61 History &
Overview & Map 7 3. CAP DE RUBIO 63 Language
History 8 La Cueva 66
Language 9 Egagrópilas 68 Logistics
When to Visit 9 La Cueva del Pez 78
Getting to Ibiza 11 Corona de Tossals 80 Wildlife
Where to Stay 13 Jolibud 82
Beaches 14 Paquidérmico 89 Climbing
Wildlife 16 4. CAP AUBARCA 103 & Access
Plant Life 16 Los Viones 94
The Climbing 16 Mocos Inalámbricos 98 How to
Equipment 19 Cala Aubarca 100 Use
QR Codes & Navigation 19 Cap Aubarca 103
Access 19 Cara Mono 104 Cap de
Bolts & Fixed Gear 20 Torre de Lluc 108 Balansat
Emergency Contacts 23 Matxots 118
How to Use This Guidebook 26 Cala Sardina 120 Isla
1. CAP DE BALANSAT 28 5. SANT ANTONI 125 Blanca
Rampa de Torre 30 Ses Fontanelles 128
Cap Creu 32 6. BUDA 138 Cap de
Hans Wand 34 Sector Es Vedra 136 Rubio
Na Xamena 37 An teatro 138
Cala Na Xamena 40 Buda 140 Cap
2. ISLA BLANCA 44 7. SANTA EULARIA 151 Aubarca
Sector Sombra Sector Siesta 154
Sector Sol Route Index 156 Sant
Antoni

Buda

Santa
Eularia

Index

4 INTRODUCTION | Crag Selector Overview Map Page 5

Overview Summary of Ibiza Crags Single-Pitch Routes
Multi-Pitch Routes
History & Morning Sunshine
Language Afternoon Sunshine
Plenty of Shade
Logistics Cli s by the Sea

Wildlife Adventurous
Popular
Climbing
& Access Walk-in Time
How to Routes F3a-F4c
Routes F5a-F5b
Use
Routes F5c
Cap de Routes F6a-F6c
Balansat Routes F7a-F7c
Routes F8a-F8c
Isla
Blanca A. Rampa de Torre 26 AM PM ? 0:20 2 2 0 3 2 0Shade
Cap de CAP DE BALANSAT B. Cap Creu 28 AM PM Coastal Adventure Popular
Rubio C. Hans Wand 30 AM PM ? 0:15 0 1 1 3 3 0Shade
Cap D. Na Xamena 32 AM PM Coastal Adventure Popular
Aubarca E. Cala Na Xamena 34 AM PM ? 0:20 0 0 1 1 0 0Shade
Sant Coastal Adventure Popular
Antoni AM PM ? 0:20 0 2 0 4 3 0Shade
AM PM Coastal Adventure Popular
Buda AM PM ? 0:20 1 2 1 4 0 0Shade
AM PM Coastal Adventure Popular
Santa AM PM
Eularia A. Sector Sombra 40 ? 0:10 0 1 2 7 10 2Shade
B. Sector Sol 44 AM PM Coastal Adventure Popular
Index C. Sector Faders 50 AM PM ? 0:15 2 6 7 16 3 0Shade
ISLA BLANCA D. Punta de Aguila 54 AM PM Coastal Adventure Popular
E. Es Pouding 61 AM PM ? 0:30 0 9 5 10 6 1Shade
AM PM Coastal Adventure Popular
AM PM ? 0:30 4 5 5 11 11 3Shade
Coastal Adventure Popular
AM PM ? 0:30 0 0 0 5 7 1Shade
AM PM Coastal Adventure Popular
AM PM
A. La Cueva 66 AM PM ? 0:40 0 0 0 2 9 5Shade
B. Egagrópilas 68 AM PM Coastal Adventure Popular
C. La Cueva del Pez 78 AM PM ? 0:45 2 5 11 29 8 0Shade
ISLA BLANCA D. Corona de Tossals 80 AM PM Coastal Adventure Popular
E. Jolibud 82 AM PM ? 0:40 0 0 1 3 4 0Shade
F. Paquidérmico 89 Coastal Adventure Popular
AM PM ? 0:30 0 2 3 4 0 0Shade
Coastal Adventure Popular
AM PM ? 0:20 3 0 0 6 25 11Shade
AM PM Coastal Adventure Popular
AM PM ? 0:25 0 0 0 0 2 2Shade
Coastal Adventure Popular
AM PM
A. Los Viones 94 ? 0:40 0 0 0 4 8 2Shade
Coastal Adventure Popular
? 0:40 0 0 0 0 9 3Shade
B. Mocos Inalámbricos 98 Coastal Adventure Popular

C. Cala Aubarca 100 ? 0:50 0 0 0 1 0 0Shade
CAP AUBARCA Coastal Adventure Popular
? 1:00 0 0 0 2 0 0Shade
D. Cap Aubarca 103 Coastal Adventure Popular

E. Cara Mono 104 ? 0:20 0 0 0 7 7 0Shade
Coastal Adventure Popular
? 0:45 0 0 3 21 31 1Shade
F. Torre de Lluc 108 Coastal Adventure Popular

G. Matxots 118 ? 0:40 0 0 0 3 6 2Shade
Coastal Adventure Popular
? 0:30 0 1 2 10 10 0Shade
H. Cala Sardina 120 Coastal Adventure Popular

A. Ses Fontanelles 128 ? 0:10 2 1 2 8 8 0Shade
Coastal Adventure Popular

A. Sector Es Vedra 136 ? 0:10 1 0 4 2 8 0Shade
B. An teatro 138 Coastal Adventure Popular
C. Buda 140 ? 0:20 0 0 0 4 13 5Shade
BUDA Coastal Adventure Popular
? 0:30 1 14 7 49 36 10Shade
Coastal Adventure Popular

A. Sector Siesta 154 ? 0:10 0 2 2 6 3 0Shade
Coastal Adventure Popular

Overview Map Page 5 Overview | INTRODUCTION 5

CAP DE Portinatx Overview

N BALANSAT History &
CAP DE Language
CAP RUBIO Sant
AUBARCA Vincent Logistics
Port de
W E Sant Miquel Wildlife
SANT Sant
S Santa ISLA Miquel Sant PM 811 Climbing
ANTONI Agnes BLANCA Joan de sa Mala Costa & Access

Serra How to
Use
SN2 Sant PM 804
Mateu C733 Cap de
PM 810 Balansat
Santa
Illa sa Conillera Gertrudis Isla
Blanca
Sant Antoni Santa
Eularia Cap de
Illa s'Espartar C731 Rubio
Serra Grassa SANTA
Sant EULARIA Cap
Josep Aubarca
Cap des Llibrell
Punta de Verda Sant
Serra des Castellans Antoni
BUDA PM 803 Eivissa
Illa de Es Vedra Buda


de

Cap Llentrisca dPeosrtaesTorre IBIZA
PPtuan.tadesdeJsonPodrarloif
Pta. 0 2 4 6 8km
ses

OVERVIEW rich and famous, with many celebrities Santa
favouring Ibiza's ve-star hotels for Eularia
Located in the western Mediterranean, summer getaways.
approximately 100km o the Costa For climbers, the island is an unsung Index
Blanca, Ibiza is the third largest of Spain's gem – particularly if you're looking for
Balearic Islands. somewhere a bit di erent from the
The island is famed for its lively nightlife mainstream resorts of Spain and Greece.
and has become known as the clubbing Most of the climbing is situated on the
capital of the world, with as many as remote northwest coast where, even in
3 million tourists passing through in summer, you'd barely know you were on
a typical summer season. Most of this the planet's biggest party island.
in ux is absorbed by the two main Here, you'll nd a relaxed atmosphere,
towns – Sant Antoni on the west coast, friendly people, and sometimes deserted
and the capital, Eivissa (or Ibiza Town), in crags. The routes are usually well bolted,
the south. and with a superb variety of styles and
Away from the towns, Ibiza's landscape grades there's something to suit most
is undeniably beautiful. Its dramatic tastes and abilities.
coastline, crystal clear waters and idyllic
beaches have made it a playground not
only for the clubbers, but also for the

6 INTRODUCTION | History Overview Map Page 5

Overview HISTORY OF THE PARTY ISLAND res on top of the towers, giving
villagers time to lock up precious
History & The rst Phoenician settlers arrived on commodities before an attack. Seven
Language Ibiza in 654 BC, discovering an island of these towers are still standing,
with a very hospitable environment including two at the climbing areas of
Logistics and an absence of any venomous Buda and Cap Creu.
creatures. It was this fact that led Finally, in the 1970s, democracy arrived
Wildlife them to name the island Bes, after with the creation of the autonomous
the Egyptian deity known for killing Spanish community of the Balearic
Climbing snakes, ghting o evil, and protecting Islands, with an administrative centre
& Access households, mothers, children and in Palma, Majorca. Important issues
How to childbirth. Over time, Bes came to now devolved to the community
symbolise the good things in life: wine, include such critical matters as
Use music, dance and revelry. whether naturist traditions should
The Phoenician settlers established be protected by law, and whether
Cap de a port from where they traded dye, naturists should legally be allowed to
Balansat salt, sh and wool with trading posts enter bars and restaurants without
on Majorca. They remained loyal to getting dressed!
Isla Carthage until Roman times, when Of course, the traditional acceptance of
Blanca they negotiated a favourable treaty nudity in Ibiza has roots right back in
Cap de with Rome and were allowed to retain the beginning of its recorded history.
Rubio their traditions well into the Empire This, and the fact that it was named
Cap days. after the Egyptian god of revelry has
Aubarca After the fall of the Western Roman played a large part in Ibiza's ascension
Sant Empire and a brief period of Vandal to the status of the world's 'party
Antoni and Byzantine rule, the island was island'.
conquered by the Moors in 902. Locals Ibiza was rst opened to international
Buda converted to Islam and Berber settlers tourism in the late 1950s, quickly
arrived. becoming popular with free spirits and
Santa In 1110, Ibiza, Menorca and hippies who would hold gatherings
Eularia Formentera were invaded by the on the beaches by day, before moving
Norwegian King Sigurd I in an e ort to into rented ncas in the evening.
Index weaken the Muslim grip on the Iberian Music, dancing, and nude bathing
Peninsula. A hundred years later, were common.
the Aragonese King James invaded Today, the island is home to some
and deported the last of the Muslim of the biggest and most famous
population. nightclubs on the planet, hosting
Christians arrived from Girona to big-name DJs throughout the summer
replace the departed Muslims, but season. The modern party season
the island was allowed to retain its starts at the beginning of June,
traditional self-government until 1715, running through to the rst weekend
when King Philip V of Spain took over. in October.
It was around this time that a network
of 'pirate towers' was constructed
all around the island, from which
observers could scan the horizon for
approaching pirate ships. If a ship was
spotted, the warning would be passed
around the island by lighting beacon

Overview Map Page 5 Language | INTRODUCTION 7

LANGUAGE i Useful Language Overview
Ibiza (or Eivissa in Catalan) has a
population of approximately 150,000, Hello Hola History &
most of whom live in the main Goodbye Adiós Language
towns of Eivissa, Sant Antoni and Good morning Buenos días
Santa Eularia. Although Spanish is Good night Buenas noches Logistics
spoken throughout the island, the Please Por favor
native language is actually a regional Thank you Gracias Wildlife
dialect of Catalan known as Ibicenco Yes / No Sí / No
or Eivissenc. As a result, many of the I'm sorry Lo siento Climbing
place names on road signs and maps Excuse me Perdón & Access
(including those in this guidebook) Where is / are ? Dónde está / están?
have more than one spelling. Toilets Los servicios How to
Thankfully, the Spanish and Ibicenco Hotel Hotel Use
names are usually su ciently similar to Shop Tienda
be recognisable. Airport Aeropuerto Cap de
As the island is a major tourist Hospital Hospital Balansat
destination, many people also speak Pharmacy Farmacia
good English, particularly those that I need help Necesito ayuda Isla
work in hotels, bars, shops or any How much is it? Cuanto cuesta? Blanca
public service role. The bill, please. La cuenta, por favor
A selection of useful Spanish phrases is 1 Uno Cap de
given opposite: 2 Dos Rubio
3 Tres
The island of Es Vedra on Ibiza's southwestern 4 Cuatro Cap
tip. This striking limestone monolith rises almost 5 Cinco Aubarca
400m from the Mediterranean, and is surrounded 6 Seis
by numerous myths and legends. Climbing on the 7 Siete Sant
island is not permitted. 8 Ocho Antoni
9 Nueve
10 Diez Buda

Santa
Eularia

Index

8 INTRODUCTION | When to Visit Overview Map Page 5

Overview

History &
Language

Logistics

Wildlife Ibiza average monthly temperatures Average days of rain per month

Climbing WHEN TO VISIT Out of season (from November to
& Access It is possible to climb in Ibiza April), the island is very quiet and
throughout the entire year, though the most of the bars, restaurants and
How to autumn and spring generally give the other tourist facilities are closed.
Use best conditions. It is, however, still possible to nd
The summer tourist season runs accommodation and climbers visiting
Cap de from the middle of May through to during these months will enjoy a very
Balansat early October, during which the main peaceful, rural climbing experience.
towns and beaches are likely to be Some of the crags can be slippery due
Isla busy. The sea cli s along the northern to humidity, particularly when there's
Blanca coast, however, provide a peaceful a sea breeze.
escape from the crowds and many May, June, September and
Cap de north-facing crags are climbable October probably provide the best
Rubio even in hot weather. By the middle compromise, when hotels, bars and
of October, many tourist facilities restaurants are all open and the
Cap such as watersports, boat hire, bars temperatures are ideal for climbing.
Aubarca and restaurants begin to close for the
winter.
Sant
Antoni

Buda

Santa
Eularia

Index

Overview Map Page 5 Logistics | INTRODUCTION 9

GETTING THERE WHERE TO STAY Overview

 By Air The two main accommodation options History &
Ibiza airport handles some 6 million are hotels in the resorts or self-catering Language
passengers each year, so it will come
as no surprise to learn that ights to ncas in the countryside. Prices and Logistics
the island are frequent and cheap, with availability vary enormously by season.
budget airlines operating services from Staying in one of the resort hotels Wildlife
all over Europe. is usually the cheapest option,
From the UK, daily ights operate from particularly in spring and autumn Climbing
spring to autumn from a variety of outside of the main tourist season. & Access
airports including London, Manchester, The lively town of Sant Antoni has the
Liverpool and Glasgow. widest range of hotel accommodation, How to
In winter, ights are less frequent but though some of it is very 'low-budget' Use
prices drop and some excellent deals and the town can be a bit raucous
are available. during the clubbing season. Cap de
Further north, the village of Port Sant Balansat
 By Sea Miquel is probably a better option.
Baleària and Trasmediterranea both This much smaller resort has fewer Isla
operate ferry services between hotels to choose from, but has a lot Blanca
Valencia and Eivissa, with crossings more character whilst still providing all
costing between £100 and £200 of the amenities such as bars, shops, Cap de
depending on the time of year. restaurants and a good beach. Its main Rubio
advantage, however, is the fact that
 Car Hire it is very well situated for most of the Cap
To reach the crags, it will be necessary climbing on the island's north coast. Aubarca
to rent a car – these are cheap and For groups or visitors looking for self-
plentiful, and can be easily reserved catering accommodation, many villas Sant
online for collection at the airport. ( ncas) are available throughout the Antoni
island's interior. These can easily be
found and booked online. Buda

Santa
Eularia

Index

16 INTRODUCTION | The Climbing Overview Map Page 5

Overview THE CLIMBING i QR Codes & Navigation

History & Most of Ibiza's climbing is found on Navigating to and from Ibizan crags
Language the Cretaceous limestone sea cli s is notoriously di cult, so don't be
along the island's north coast. These surprised if you sometimes get lost!
Logistics o er a variety of climbing styles, from Navigation problems are compounded
vertical walls to steep caves and tufas. by the myriad of tracks, paths and
Wildlife The north coast is also home to a small intermittent trails that crisscross the
amount of conglomerate, such as that northern part of the island, as well as
Climbing found at Es Pouding near Isla Blanca. some confusing and sometimes sparse
& Access Other climbing areas include the big signposting.
How to Quaternary limestone cli s at Buda – By far the easiest way of getting to the
the rst Ibizan crags to be developed climbing is to use QR codes and GPS.
Use by climbers – and the short vertical It is therefore advisable to download
walls of Jurassic limestone near Santa a QR code reader onto your smart
Cap de Eularia on the south coast. phone before your trip.
Balansat The climbing involves a mixture of
single- and multi-pitch routes, with  In the Car
Isla everything from easily accessible top- Google Maps seems to be the most
Blanca roping crags to very adventurous sea reliable method of navigating to the
Cap de cli s with awkward access. parking spots. Simply scan the blue
Rubio QR codes on the area maps for simple
Cap EQUIPMENT navigation in Google Maps.
Aubarca
Sant A standard rack of about 15  On Foot
Antoni quickdraws and a couple of slings is all Locus Map has been found to be
that is required to climb most of the particularly useful in Ibiza – this can be
Buda routes on Ibiza. A 60m single rope is downloaded from app stores for iOS
recommended, as some of the abseils or Android.
Santa or lower-o s are up to 30m in length. Locus Map provides more detailed
Eularia Although some trad climbing has been information for navigating on foot,
recorded on the island, these routes with footpaths, tracks and contours all
Index are not particularly recommended. reasonably well depicted.
That said, a small amount of trad gear Scan the black QR codes in this
might be useful for some of the older guidebook to open crag locations in
pitches, particularly on the more Google Maps, Locus Map, or other
adventurous multi-pitch routes and at installed map apps.
some sectors of Buda.
Where trad gear is required, this
is annotated with the appropriate
symbol next to the route name (see
page 20 for a list of symbols).

Overview Map Page 5 The Climbing | INTRODUCTION 17

Overview

History &
Language

Logistics

Wildlife

Climbing
& Access
How to

Use

Cap de
Balansat

Isla
Blanca
Cap de
Rubio
Cap
Aubarca
Sant
Antoni

Buda

Santa
Eularia

Index

Enjoying solitude and magnificent
scenery at the Egagrópilas
crags. Finding your way here is
sometimes half the battle!
Absurd it is (5c), page 77.

18 INTRODUCTION | Access Overview Map Page 5

Overview

History &
Language

Logistics

Wildlife

Climbing
& Access
How to

Use

Cap de
Balansat

Isla
Blanca
Cap de
Rubio
Cap
Aubarca
Sant
Antoni

Buda

Santa
Eularia

Index

The huge limestone walls of Torre
de Lluc provide one of Ibiza's main
sport climbing venues. Page 108.

Overview Map Page 5 Access | INTRODUCTION 19

ACCESS BOLTS & FIXED GEAR Overview

The cli s of northern Ibiza are Because of the extremely corrosive History &
protected as sites of community nature of the Mediterranean Language
importance and special protection environment, there have been
areas. As a result, it is against the law to signi cant concerns raised about the Logistics
make alterations to the natural habitat, safety of bolts throughout the region.
which includes the cutting down of Unfortunately, the replacement Wildlife
trees or uprooting of plants. of many of the original bolts with
Climbers are asked to respect stainless steel ones served only to Climbing
any closure signs and follow the make the matter worse, with evidence & Access
instructions of rangers at all times. In of stress corrosion cracking in both How to
addition: 304(L) and 316(L) stainless bolts on the
• Wild camping is prohibited. island. Unlike the obvious rusting of Use
• Open res are prohibited traditional steel bolts, stress corrosion
cracking is not visible on the surface, Cap de
between April and November. and can signi cantly reduce the Balansat
• Please do not leave litter. strength of the metal.
• Do not use the crag environment In recent years a project has been Isla
underway to replace all of the stainless Blanca
as a toilet. steel bolts with glue-in titanium Cap de
Although access to the crags is mostly staples, identi able by their distinctive Rubio
unrestricted, it is important that visitors red-coloured resin. Cap
follow any published regulations and In the meantime, climbers are urged to Aubarca
respect the wishes of landowners. take particular care when assessing the Sant
In the past, access issues have been quality of in-situ anchors on the island. Antoni
reported at Cap Creu and Ses Torretes, To make a donation to the titanium
and climbers visiting these crags bolt fund, please visit: Buda
should be particularly alert to any ibizavertical.com/ibizatitaniumproject
recent changes to access rights. Santa
At the time of writing, access rights i Emergency Contacts Eularia
have been withdrawn for climbing at
Na Xamena and Cala Na Xamena. It is In case of Emergency, contact the Index
not known if these will be lifted in the emergency services by dialling 112.
future, so the routes are still included in
this guidebook.

Other useful numbers are as follows:

Ambulance 061

Hospital Can Misses 971 397 000

Hospital Cas Serres 971 392 960

Police (to report theft) 902 102 112

Police (emergency) 062

British Consulate 933 666 200

To dial Ibiza from overseas, numbers
are pre xed with the Ibiza area code
+34.

20 INTRODUCTION | How to Use Overview Map Page 5

Overview HOW TO USE THIS GUIDEBOOK  Route Listings

History & This guidebook aims to provide visiting Although most of the routes described
Language climbers with basic information for in this book are bolted sport routes,
climbing on Ibiza. The climbing is the quality and age of bolts can vary
Logistics described in 7 di erent area chapters enormously, and some routes require
which are referenced on the 'thumb some trad gear. The following symbols
Wildlife tabs' down the side of each page. are used to give an indication of how
well bolted routes are:
Climbing  Area Maps
& Access At the start of each chapter is an area A traditionally protected route,
map which shows the location of all of TRAD requiring a full trad rack.
How to the crags described in that chapter, as
Use well as an overview map showing where This route has some bolts but
the area is located on the island. MIXED requires a trad gear as well.
Cap de Each crag is labelled with decimal lat/
Balansat long coordinates (which can be entered This route is bolted, but may
into Google Maps) as well as a QR code BOLTS feature longer run-outs. A couple
Isla which can be scanned on a mobile
Blanca phone to open the location in online of pieces of trad gear may reduce
navigation apps such as Google Maps or the seriousness. Alternatively, the
Cap de Locus Map. quality of in-situ gear is unknown
Rubio Parking spots are labelled with a blue QR and care is advised.
code which opens the location in Google
Cap Maps for easy navigation in the car. A fully bolted sport climb for which
Aubarca More information about QR codes can SPORT trad gear is not required.
be found on page 16.
Sant In addition, the following symbols are
Antoni  Crag Information Box used to clarify certain aspects of a route
At the start of each crag or sector is where these are not obvious from the
Buda an information box giving overview topo or description:
information and approach details. The
Santa following symbols are used: A bold climb with some long run-
Eularia BOLD outs.

A crack climb that requires jamming
CRACK techniques.

This route requires wires or small
THIN cams for protection.

Index This crag receives lots of sunshine. A wide crack for which you will need
WIDE large gear for protection.

Shade is available at this crag. SLAB A slabby route, requiring smearing
and friction climbing.
Shade
STEEP A steep or overhanging route; tiring
Some routes remain dry in the rain. or pumpy climbing.

This crag is coastal. Swimming may ABSEIL This route has an abseil approach.
Coastal be possible in calm conditions. Descent on foot.

A popular crag that sees plenty of LOOSE Loose rock.
Popular visitors. Route unchecked, or details not
available.
? Climbing here is adventurous.

Adventure

Approximate time (in minutes) to
0:10 walk to this sector from the car.

Overview Map Page 5 How to Use | INTRODUCTION 21

20m Trad route, or  Grades Overview
unreliable xed gear. Routes are graded according to the
Bolted sport 5c Anchors may not be French grading system, for which History &
routes 19 in-situ. approximate comparisons are shown in Language
the table below.
7a 6b 5a 5b As in most climbing areas, the grading Logistics
of routes is not an exact science, and
variations are frequently encountered. Wildlife
Please treat suggested grades as a guide
only. Climbing
& Access
Grade of this Adjectival UK USA French Aus How to
pitch 5.1
Use
16 17
18 20 Difficult 5.2

 Star Ratings Very 5.3 10 Cap de
These are always very subjective, and Difficult 11 Balansat
should not be taken too seriously! 5.4 12
Although some of the best routes are Mild 4a 13 Isla
annotated with stars, other routes in Severe 14 Blanca
this guide may still be very enjoyable. 5.5 15
Indeed, any bolted route is likely to be 16 Cap de
worthwhile, so please don't let a lack of Severe 4b F4 17 Rubio
stars put you o ... 5.6
18 Cap
 Topos Hard Mild Very 4c 5.7 F4+ Aubarca
Each sector is illustrated with a topo Severe Severe 19
showing the approximate line of the 20 Sant
routes. Route lines are colour-coded Very 5a 5.8 F5a 21 Antoni
by grade according to the grade table Severe F5b
opposite. In addition, bolted routes are 5.9 F5c 22 Buda
highlighted with yellow dashes, whilst E1 Hard Very 5b 5.10a F6a
trad routes (or routes with unreliable 5.10b F6b 23 Santa
Severe 24 Eularia
xed gear) are denoted by a white and 5.10c F6c 25
coloured line. E2 5c 5.10d 26 Index
An example topo is shown above. E3 6a 5.11a F7a 27
The following symbols are used: 5.11b F7b 28
E4 5.11c F7c 29
This sector is usually in the shade, 5.11d F8a 30
Shade or shade is available throughout E5 5.12a F8b
5.12b
the day. 6b 5.12c
This sector gets lots of sunshine E6 5.12d
throughout the day. 5.13a
This sector has sunshine in the E7 5.13b
AM morning. 6c 5.13c
This sector has sunshine in the 5.13d
PM afternoon. E8

22 CAP DE BALANSAT Map Page 25

Overview

History &
Language

Logistics

Wildlife

Climbing
& Access
How to

Use

Cap de
Balansat

Isla
Blanca
Cap de
Rubio
Cap
Aubarca
Sant
Antoni

Buda

Santa
Eularia

Index

Map Page 25 CAP DE BALANSAT 23

Overview

History &
Language

Logistics

Wildlife

Climbing
& Access
How to

Use

Cap de
Balansat

Isla
Blanca
Cap de
Rubio
Cap
Aubarca
Sant
Antoni

Buda

Santa
Eularia

Index

1. CAP DE BALANSAT

Rampa de Torre
Cap Creu

Hans Wand
Na Xamena
Cala Na Xamena

24 CAP DE BALANSAT | Area Overview Map Page 25

Overview B. Cap Creu
page 28
History &
Language 39.091401, 1.428095

Logistics Cap de Punta de sa Creu A. Rampa De Torre
Balansat Punta de sa Torre page 26
Wildlife Punta de sa Ferradura
C. Hans Wand Creu Illa Murada 39.087933, 1.433181
Climbing page 30 de Sant Cala d'en
& Access Miquel Illa des Bosc
How to 39.086165, 1.420213 Ferrer P

Use GPS Parking 4 P GPS Parking 1
39.084750, 1.421724 39.085890, 1.437168
Cap de GPS Parking 3
Balansat 39.087029, 1.423909 Torre des
Molar
Isla P Na Xaurena
Blanca
Cap de P
Rubio
Cap Na Xamena Hotel Na Xamena GPS Parking 2
Aubarca Hacienda 39.082997, 1.433159
Sant P
Antoni Port de Sant
Miquel
Buda
GPS Parking 5
Santa 39.077906, 1.420774
Eularia
D. Na Xamena
Index page 32

39.079315, 1.417726

E. Cala Na Xamena Can Solaies
page 34

39.078004, 1.417803

Map Page 25 Area Overview | CAP DE BALANSAT 25

Cap CAP DE Portinatx
BALANSAT
N de Balansat Overview
WE CaPpCudnaetpsaRAduuebbsaeiósrcTaorretes Port de Sant
Sant Miquel Vincent History &
S Sant Language
Cap Nunó Santa Miquel Sant PM 811
Agnes Joan de sa Mala Costa Logistics

Serra Wildlife

SN2 Sant PM 804 Climbing
Mateu C733 & Access
Cap Negret PM 810
Santa How to
Illa sa Conillera Gertrudis Use

Sant Antoni Santa Cap de
C731 Eularia Balansat
Illa s'Espartar
Isla
Punta de Verda Sant Serra Grassa Cap des Llibrell Blanca
Josep
Cap de
Cap Blanc Serra des Castellans PM 803 Eivissa Rubio

Illa de Es Vedra  IBIZA de Cap
Aubarca
0 2 4 6 8km
Cap Llentrisca dPeosrtaesTorre
PPtuan.tadesdeJsonPodrarloif
Pta.
ses

1. CAP DE BALANSAT Sant
Antoni

This attractive and easily accessible small but well-stocked supermarket that Buda
headland is located on the island's north sells pretty much everything you'll need Santa
coast, next to the popular resort of Port for a week's climbing Eularia
Sant Miguel. Although access problems  Pirate Caves
have restricted climbing around the The natural caves of Cova de Can Marca Index
exclusive Hotel Hacienda, the headland were once home to pirate smugglers.
holds some good, if rather adventurous, If you take the 40-minute tour you will
sea cli s. be able to see the red and black marks
 Port Sant Miguel they used to navigate their way around
The nearby Port of Sant Miguel is one the cave system, and enjoy spectacular
of the island's more peaceful beach scenery with a music and light show
resorts, welcoming climbers, hippies, thrown in as well.
and tourists alike. For an excellent meal  The Lookout Tower
and top-notch post-climb cocktails, visit A hike up the cli above Rampa de Torre
Jimmy & Bikini’s on Avenida Benirràs, or will take you to the Torre des Molar, an
for live music, late-night drinking and 18th century watchtower which is open
dancing then head to Casey’s Irish Bar to the public. A steep spiral staircase
just o the beach. leads up to the roof and spectacular
As well as being close to many good views. Another popular local walk goes
climbing spots along the north coast, up to the cross (creu) of Sant Miguel of
Port Sant Miguel has a good beach and a which, sadly, the history is lost.

26 CAP DE BALANSAT | Rampa de Torre Map Page 25

Overview A Rampa de Torre

History & ? 0:20Shade 10m
Language
Coastal Popular Adventure
Logistics
These cli s lie on the northeast side of 6c 6c 5a
Wildlife the Cap de Balansat, just west of Port
de Sant Miquel. For visitors staying 1 2 34
Climbing in the port, they o er the closest
& Access climbing and can be reached on foot. Map page 25
How to AM 0:20
The routes get sunshine in the
Use morning but are shady throughout AM 0:20 Punta Pala
the hottest part of the day, meaning
Cap de that climbing is possible here all year Four short routes are located around
Balansat round. a small overhang to the left of the big
ramp system.
Isla Parking: Take the road to Na Xamena,
Blanca which leaves the main road just south 1. Punta Pala F6c SPORT
Cap de of Port de Sant Miquel. After about
Rubio 1km, turn o onto a dirt track leading 10m. 5 bolts up the left side of the small
Cap to the Isla des Bosc peninsula. For roof.
Aubarca the upper approach, park where the
Sant Torre des Molar path leaves the track 2. Saftarsch F6c SPORT
Antoni (Parking 2). For the lower approach,
continue to the end of the track 10m. The next line to the right. 5 bolts.
Buda and park at the beach café on the
peninsula (Parking 1).
Santa
Eularia Upper Approach: Follow the good 3.Y You (Left Start) F5a SPORT
path to the Torre des Molar, then head
Index northwest along the cli top to the top 10m. Climbs the crack to the roof, then
of the climbs. Abseil to the base via traverses right to join the next route. 4 bolts.
Route 10.
4.Y You (Right start) F5a SPORT

Lower Approach: Walk and scramble 10m. Climbs to the right of the roof, starting
over boulders just above the sea, from a large boulder. 4 bolts.
passing a short, di cult section
protected by bolts. This approach is
not passable in high seas.

Upper path from Torre des
Parking 2 Molar

Parking 1 on The Yosemite
causeway to Ramp Wall
Isla des Bosc
Punta
Pala

Map Page 25 Rampa de Torre | CAP DE BALANSAT 27

Rappel descent down Map page 25 Overview
route 10 AM 0:20
History &
Language

Logistics

Wildlife

Climbing
11 & Access

How to
Use

7 Cap de
8 Balansat

56 9 Isla
10 Blanca

Punta Pala Cap de
Rubio

Cap
Aubarca

AM 0:20 The Ramp AM 0:20 Yosemite Wall Sant
Antoni
The prominent ramp provides some This is the impressive smooth wall to
worthwhile easy climbs and, for those the right of the big ramp system. It Buda
who have approached by abseil, the provides some di cult, steep climbs
easiest way back to the car! with lots of character. Santa
Eularia
5. Is So! F5b SPORT 9. Unnamed F7c SPORT
Index
20m. The left-hand line on the subsidiary 100m. Climbs the centre of the wall in three
buttress to the left of the big ramp. 4 bolts. pitches.

6. Sommertime F5b SPORT 10. Little Nose F6c / F6a A2 SPORT

20m. The right-hand line on the subsidiary 100m. Excellent climbing up the impressive,
buttress to the left of the big ramp. 4 bolts. well-bolted wall. It is either climbed free at 6c,
or at a more amenable 6a with some aid.
7. Walking Home (Left) F4 BOLTS
11. Futorama F7b
110m. A worthwhile route following the left- SPORT

hand side of the big ramp. The climb starts as for 100m. A steep, direct nish from the second
the next route, and rejoins it on pitch 2. belay of Little Nose.

8. Walking Home (Right) F4 BOLTS

110m. The easiest way to the top of the cli
follows the big ramp system in four pitches.

50 ISLA BLANCA | Sector Faders Map Page 39

Overview C Sector Faders parking just after the bend before the
road becomes impassable. With 4WD
History & ? 0:30Shade it is possible to continue a short way
Language Coastal Popular Adventure further to a larger parking area.
Approach: Continue on foot down the
Logistics This excellent crag is one of the best old road to a ruin on a small plateau
sea cli s on the island, particularly for behind the top of the Punta Aguila.
Wildlife teams looking for mid-grade single- Turn right, following the track down
pitch cragging. towards the sea. At the second left-
Climbing hand hairpin, cut down across large
& Access The routes are all well bolted on boulders to a short metal cable which
How to good rock, o ering some varied and provides access to the routes.
technical pitches in an attractive
Use setting. Numerous boulders and a
huge horizontal roof towards the right-
Cap de hand side of the sector provide some
Balansat worthwhile bouldering.

Isla The routes face northwest and stay 7c ?
Blanca in the shade for most of the day,
Cap de receiving sunshine from mid to Es Veritat que Pareix Odin
Rubio late afternoon. This fact, along with Monserrat (7c) (grade unknown)
Cap opportunities for swimming in the
Aubarca sea at the base of the cli , means
Sant that Faders is a good choice during
Antoni summer months.

Buda Parking: At the entrance to Isla Blanca, Area Map on page 39
is a junction where the main road
Santa curves round to the left. Take the right Shade 0:30 Monserrat Boulder
Eularia fork, which leads straight on down
the hill. Keep going past the rst
Index left-hand hairpin (Parking 6 for Sectors
Sol and Sombra) and continue down
the residential street until the second
left-hand hairpin. There is limited

B. Sector Sol
page 44

C. Sector Faders Metal cable Monserrat
page 50 protects awkward Boulder
(2 routes
step across to shown above) Hairpin
platform below

the routes

Map Page 39 Sector Faders | ISLA BLANCA 51

Area Map on page 39 PM 0:30 Multi-pitch Routes Overview

PM 0:30 Sector Faders Two long multi-pitch routes have been History &
established up the full height of the Language
cli . They see few ascents, and care is
required with loose rocks at the top. Logistics

1. No Go Home F6c SPORT Wildlife

120m. This route follows the left-hand slab Climbing
from the top of Farmacogloriall. After two & Access
pitches it is forced rightwards across the steep
sidewall to gain the front of the main slab and How to
a nish as for Sum. Use
6a+
2. Sum F6c+ Cap de
SPORT Balansat

120m. An excellent climb. Start up Bea y Isla
la Pela, but break right from that route up Blanca
steeper ground to gain the base of the main
slab. This is followed in ve pitches to the top Cap de
6c of the cli . Rubio
6c
Cap
6a Aubarca
6a+
Sant
6c Antoni

5b

6c Buda

5c Santa
6c+ Eularia

1 Index
2

6c 5a 5b Easy traverse along
5c 12 rock platforms from

6 metal cable

52 ISLA BLANCA | Sector Faders Map Page 39

Overview PM 0:30 Single-pitch Routes 25m

History & An excellent selection of single-pitch 20m 5c
Language lines with easy access and some good,
varied climbing. 2
Logistics 30m
5c
Wildlife 19

Climbing 1
& Access 26m
How to
22m 20
Use 5a 5b
5a 7a 6b
Cap de
Balansat 7a 5c 6c 5c 6a
5a 5b
Isla 6c 6b
Blanca 5a 5b
Cap de
Rubio 12 1314 18

4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 15 16 17

Cap
Aubarca

Sant 3. Unnamed F6c SPORT 11. Capitan Rainer F5a SPORT
Antoni
26m. Atmospheric climbing up the left 26m. Atmospheric climbing up the left
Buda sidewall (not shown on topo). sidewall.

Santa 4. Unnamed F7a SPORT 12. Bea y la Pela F5b CRACK SPORT
Eularia
25m. The arête at the left-hand end of the 26m. The slanting crack up the right-hand
sector has a desperate start. side of the slab.

5. Rosegons F6c SPORT 13. Piazentanz F6b SPORT

Index 22m. The smooth, rounded rib. 30m. The left-hand corner.

6. Farmacogloriall F5c SPORT 14. Húmedo o Seco F6a SPORT

22m. The shallow scoop just left of the crack. 30m. The right-hand corner.

7. Kutlas F5a SPORT 15. Greg el Inventor F5a CRACK TRAD

22m. The slabby crack. 25m. Traditionally protected climbing up the
tempting cracks.
8. Kenzie F6c SPORT
16. Blancanieves F7a
26m. The arête to the roof. SPORT

9. Beto no Fumis F5b CRACK SPORT 20m. The steep white sidewall, accessed from
the left.
26m. The crack just right of the arête.
17. Martirio Percutor F6b SPORT
10. Gloria a la Cadena F5c
SPORT 20m. A steep start to gain the cracked arête.
26m. Atmospheric climbing up the left

sidewall.

Map Page 39 Sector Faders | ISLA BLANCA 53

28m

Overview

30m History &
Language

30 Logistics

10m 18m 8b 31 Wildlife

6c 5c 5a Climbing
27 28 5a & Access
7a 7c
7b 25 26
How to
24 Use
23
7a Cap de
Balansat
5c
21 22 Isla
Blanca
29 Area Map on page 39
Cap de
PM 0:30 Sector Faders Rubio

Cap
Aubarca

18. Manolon F5a SPORT 25. Lady Extrem F6c SPORT Sant
Antoni
26m. The slabby wall to the left of the crack. 34m. A long pitch up the buttress left of the
rst big roof. Buda
19. Manolon-Knolls F5c SPORT
26. Unknown Santa
26m. An alternative nish to the previous SPORT Eularia

route. 27. Unnamed F5c SPORT Index

20. Oder So F5b TRAD 10m. The slab above the horizontal boulder.

25m. Traditionally protected climbing up the 28. Mariu Veterinatia F5a SPORT
obvious crack.
10m. The recessed slab between the two
21. Die Knolls F5c SPORT boulders.

25m. The slabby wall on the left side of a 29. Gifre Shoa F5a SPORT
slanting groove.
18m. Climbs the big boulder and wall above
22. Paseo Vertical F7a SPORT to the roof.

25m. An easy but sparsely bolted rst pitch 30. Soy Papa F8b SPORT
leads to di cult climbing above.
30m. Hard climbing up the often-wet corner
23. Paren de Sikar F7b SPORT to the right of the big roof.

28m. The white sidewall. 31. La Espada de Damocles F7c SPORT

24. Este Canto no se Rompe F7a SPORT

28m. Starts up the low roof, right of the white
sidewall.

54 ISLA BLANCA | Punta de Aguila Map Page 39

Overview Metal tower Abseil point for
Ruin on small long routes on
History & plateau Sector Nostalgia
Language
Scramble through notch
Logistics to reach Tirolina and
Old track Nostalgia
Wildlife Sector Faders Sector
Tirolina
Climbing (page 50) Pared Roja
& Access
How to

Use

Cap de D Punta de Aguila Calentamiento
Balansat
? 0:20Shade EAST SIDE
Isla Coastal Popular Adventure
Blanca left-hand hairpin. There is limited
This is the small headland beneath Isla parking just after the bend before the
Cap de Blanca, reached via an old track that road becomes impassable. With 4WD
Rubio descends to the sea from the lowest it is possible to continue a short way
part of the village. It lies immediately further to a larger parking area.
Cap west of Sector Faders, and a visit can Approach: Continue on foot down the
Aubarca easily be combined with a few of the old road to a ruin on a small plateau,
single-pitch routes there. just below a curious metal tower.
Sant This plateau forms the 'neck' of the
Antoni headland and is the starting point for
all of the individual sector approaches.
Buda Pared Roja, Calentamiento, Tirolina and
the left-hand part of Sector Nostalgia
Santa (the front face) are reached to the east
Eularia from the plateau, as shown on the
photo above.
Index The central part of Sector Nostalgia
(the front face) is more easily reached
The headland has climbing on all three by abseil, by continuing straight on up
sides, meaning that there's plenty of to the summit from the plateau.
opportunities for sunshine or shade Sector Cazador and the right-hand
as required, though di cult access to side of Sector Nostalgia are best
the front face means that the crag has reached around the west side of the
never achieved popularity. headland by descending the gully
leftwards beneath Sector Cazador.
Parking: At the entrance to Isla Blanca,
is a junction where the main road
curves round to the left. Take the right
fork, which leads straight on down
the hill. Keep going past the rst
left-hand hairpin (Parking 6 for Sectors
Sol and Sombra) and continue down
the residential street until the second

Map Page 39 Pared Roja | Punta de Aguila | ISLA BLANCA 55

AM 0:20 Pared Roja 4. El Desatascador F8a SPORT Overview

This steep east-facing wall is home to a 17m. The left-hand side of the smooth, History &
handful of good, hard routes. The wall steep wall. Language
gets morning sunshine but is in the
shade during the afternoon. 5. Maltrato Psicologico SPORT Logistics
Approach: From the ruin on
the plateau, bear right then cut 17m. The centre of the wall. Wildlife
immediately left down the steep slope
to reach the base of the wall on the 6. Via de Josua F8b SPORT Climbing
left. & Access
17m. The line of ring bolts up the shallow
groove gives a very testing climb. How to
Use
7. Unknown SPORT
Cap de
17m. Ring bolts up the white wall, with a Balansat
bolted anchor at its base.
1. Unnamed F5c Isla
SPORT 8. Unknown Blanca

18m. Pleasant easy climbing up the left- SPORT Cap de
Rubio
hand side of the wall. 17m. Ring bolts up the brown streak to the
right. Cap
2. Unknown Aubarca
SPORT 9. Unknown
18m. No details are known. Sant
SPORT Antoni

3. La Trampa de Paco F6c+ 17m. Old rusty bolts up the right-hand side.
SPORT No details are known.

18m. Ring bolts up the crack in the groove.

Area Map on page 39

AM 0:20 Pared Roja

Buda

Santa
Eularia

Index

...from ruin on 5 6 7 89
small plateau 4

1 23

Down to
Calentamiento, Tirolina

and Nostalgia

116 CAP AUBARCA | Torre de Lluc | Sector Ramón Map Page 93

Overview PM 0:35 Sector Ramón 51. Unnamed F6c+ SPORT

History & Sometimes referred to as Sector 30m. Good climbing up the wall to the right
Language Nuevo, this is the superb undercut wall of the crack, with several tricky cruxes.
at the far right-hand end of the line
Logistics of crags. The routes face southwest 52 Unnamed F7a+ SPORT
and get lots of sunshine from midday,
Wildlife when this sector can be quite a bit 30m. Another excellent route, this time
warmer than Sector Viejo. starting through the low overhang at the base
Climbing Approach: The normal approach is of the cli . The face above is long, sustained,
& Access to turn left at the junction on the col, and superb!
How to then descend steeply (with some
down-climbing) until a vague trail 53. Unnamed F7c SPORT
Use leads rightwards to the crag. An
alternative approach, which is longer 30m. Starts up the scoop just left of the
Cap de but easier, is to walk in to Sector Viejo, arête and continues to a lower-o shared with
Balansat then follow the good path all the way the previous route.
along the base of the crags to a xed
Isla rope beneath the White Wall. Descend 54. Espolon Toni F7c+ SPORT
Blanca this and continue walking past the
Cap de Cave Sector to reach Sector Ramón. 20m. The steep, photogenic arête gives one
Rubio of the hardest routes hereabouts.
Cap
Aubarca 55. Chilam Resbalam F7b SPORT
Sant
Antoni 20m. Climbs the steep south-facing wall
immediately left of the big chimney.
Buda
47. Project SPORT The next two lines are on the wall
Santa underneath the curving roof at the
Eularia 35m. The left-hand line up the ne undercut right-hand end of the sector. Seepage
wall, accessed from the start of the next route. can be a problem here in winter.
Index
Details are unknown. 56. Unnamed F6b SPORT

48. Unnamed F7b+ SPORT 13m. The wall to the right of the chimney
gives some good climbing up to a lower-o
30m. The centre of the undercut face. beneath the curving roof. Often wet in winter.

49. Flower Power F7b+ SPORT 57. Unnamed F6a SPORT

30m. The face just to the left of the obvious 13m. The right-hand line up the wall under
crack gives an excellent route with a techncial,
bouldery start and superb climbing above. the curving roof is easier for taller climbers.

50. Fisura Ramón F7a+ CRACK SPORT

30m. The striking and well-bolted crack
line up the immaculate face gives one of the
island's best routes. It is low in the grade for
those who can climb cracks, but is sustained
throughout.

Map Page 93 Sector Ramón | Torre de Lluc | CAP AUBARCA 117

Sector Viejo Area p93 | Approach p102 Overview
Cave Sector
PM 0:25 Sector Ramón History &
Language

Logistics

Wildlife

Climbing
& Access

How to
Use

30m 30m Cap de
Balansat
20m 13m
7c+ 7b Isla
Blanca
7c
7a+ Cap de
Rubio

Cap
Aubarca

Sant
Antoni

Buda

Santa
Eularia

Index

7b+ 6b 6a
7b+

7a+ 6c+

47 48 49

55 56 57
54

53 Southern approach
52 from junction on col
51
50

From Cave Sector,
White Wall and
Sector Viejo

120 CAP AUBARCA | Cala Sardina Map Page 93

Overview H Cala Sardina is a white stone with 'Can Pujolet'
painted on it on the right-hand side.
History & ? 0:30Shade Follow the dirt track up to the Finca
Language Coastal Popular Adventure Can Pujolet, where the track bends
round to the right. It is possible to park
Logistics A splendid crag with an easy approach by the side of the road just after the
and a good selection of routes in a right-hand bend.
Wildlife peaceful woodland setting. With a 4WD vehicle it is possible
to drive all the way up to the large
Climbing The crag faces northwest and with parking area at the top of the hill.
& Access plenty of shade it can be a good Approach: Walk along the track that
escape from the heat during summer heads northwest from the right-hand
How to months. The routes get sunshine in bend at the Finca Can Pujolet. This
Use the afternoon, however, making this a leads uphill to a large parking area
worthwhile venue all year round. (those with 4WD vehicles can park
Cap de here).
Balansat Parking: Without 4WD, the closest Take the forest path that leads out of
parking is Parking 12. From the church the opposite side of the parking area
Isla in San Mateo, head northwest and and descends into the woods. After a
Blanca continue to a T-junction. Bear left here few metres, turn left down a little trail
(signposted to Santa Agnes) and keep that leads to the base of the crag, just
Cap de going for about 2.3km to a sharp right 5 minutes from the 4WD parking area.
Rubio turning onto a dirt track immediately
before the main road bends left. There
Cap
Aubarca

Sant
Antoni

Buda

Santa
Eularia

Index

Sector Abajo

Sector Arriba

Map Page 93 Arriba | Cala Sardina | CAP AUBARCA 121

PM 0:30 Sector Arriba 3. La Jungla F6a+ SPORT Overview

The rst sector is reached on the left 17m. The centre of the wall, starting just left History &
shortly after leaving the big 4WD of the white patch. Language
parking area. It consists of a large
corner, capped by a roof. 4.Tonino Bravo F6c SPORT Logistics

20m. Starts up the white patch left of Wildlife
the big corner and climbs up to crux moves
through the weakness in the roof. Climbing
1. Perra Huevara F7a+ SPORT & Access
5. Ole mis Huevos
17m. The leftmost line of bolts has a SPORT How to
Use
bouldery crux. 20m. A project through the big capping roof,
accessed from Tonino Bravo. Cap de
2. Hormiga Culona F6b SPORT Balansat
6. Carola Caracola F5
17m. The left wall to a lower-o at the roof. SPORT Isla
18m. The big corner. Blanca

17m Cap de
Rubio
18m
5 Cap
Aubarca

Sant
Antoni

Buda

Santa
Eularia

7a+ 7 Index
6b

6a+

5a

6c

12 4
3
6
Area Map on page 93

PM 0:30 Sector Arriba | Left