Snow & Ice

Winter Mountaineering Routes of Great Britain

SNO&IWCE

Lina Arthur

2 INTRODUCTION

SNOW & ICE

Winter Mountaineering Routes of Great Britain

1st Edition
Lina Arthur

Published by the Oxford Alpine Club
www.oxfordalpineclub.co.uk
ISBN for this volume 978-1-913167-08-0
A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library
©2021 Oxford Alpine Club
All uncredited images by Lina Arthur ©2021

Cartography by GeoGraphics

Contains OS data ©Crown Copyright (2019).
Some maps based on source data from www.openstreetmap.org

Other than brief quotations for use in reviews, or personal use on a climb, no part of this publication may be reproduced in any form without written
permission from the publisher. Nor should any text, images, or maps be used for commercial products without permission and acknowledgement of the
publisher. The author and publisher accept no responsibility for any injury or loss caused as a result of using this guidebook. Images and text contained
within this book do not necessarily represent the views or opinions of the Oxford Alpine Club.

INTRODUCTION 3

4 INTRODUCTION | Contents

Ascending Hall's Fell Ridge (I), one of the Lake
District's nest winter outings. Page 189.
Photo: Lina Arthur

Contents | INTRODUCTION 5

CONTENTS Intro

Introduction 6 HowtoUse
How to Use this Guide
What is Winter Climbing? 8 Winter
Grades Climbing
Conditions & Ethics 11
Tactics
Weather & Avalanches 13
Equipment 15 Grades
Snow & Ice Tick List
Climbs By Type 16 Conditions
18 & Ethics
Chapter 1 – Scotland
SCOTLAND OVERVIEW MAP 20 Tactics
Northern Highlands
Isle of Skye 23 Weather&
Cairngorms 30 Avalanches
Central Highlands
Ben Nevis & Fort William 36 Equipment
Glen Coe
Southern Highlands 39 Tick List
41
Chapter 2 – The Lake District
CUMBRIA OVERVIEW MAP 55 Climbs By
Borrowdale & Newlands 65 Type
Blencathra
Thirlmere 93
Patterdale
Great Langdale 103
Wasdale
133
Chapter 3 – North Wales
NORTH WALES OVERVIEW MAP 151
Carneddau
Ogwen & Glyderau 158
Llanberis & Snowdon 161
Cadair Idris 163
185
Chapter 4 – Historical Notes 191
Route Index 201
233
241

256
259
261
273
309
333
336 History
352

Index

6 INTRODUCTION

INTRODUCTION

This guidebook describes one hundred winter
climbs located in the main centres of British winter
climbing: Scotland, the Lake District and North
Wales. These routes provide some of the very best
winter days out for climbers operating in the lower
grades and incorporate a wide variety of crags,
areas and styles.
Any selection of routes is subjective and inevitably
some excellent climbs could not be included. The
aim here is to provide a convenient single-volume
guide to the best low-grade British snow and ice
climbs, describing them in su cient detail for
those visiting for the rst time.
When choosing routes for inclusion, a number of
criteria were considered. Firstly, these are all great
climbs, which o er fantastic winter outings.
Secondly, they are all achievable. Multi-day
expeditions have been eschewed in favour of
routes that can be done in a day with an early
start. As conditions can be eeting, the routes
have been selected with the weekend warrior or
day-o doyen in mind. A few of the northernmost
routes may require a longer trip, depending on
your location.
Thirdly, the routes are in the lower grades, ranging
from grade I to grade III. Some are full day outings;
others can be combined to create longer mountain
days, depending on the speed of your party.
Since recent winters have been ckle, this guide
includes a variety of types of route, from ridges
to gullies and from icefalls to buttresses, in order
to maximise your options whatever the snow
conditions (see page 30 for a list of climbs by type).
Popular routes are often busy, so in addition to the
titular one hundred climbs, this guide highlights
nearby routes in the same grade range. Thus if
your intended objective is snow-free or occupied,
there will often be decent alternatives.
This book aims to guide new winter climbers to
high-quality routes (and back down again!). For
more experienced mountaineers, these climbs
are excellent choices for days with novices, or
when you just want a great winter day, without
the stress, chilly belays or extra gear that may
accompany more di cult routes. All these routes
o er a fantastic day's winter mountaineering.

INTRODUCTION 7

The author enjoying perfect spring Intro
climbing conditions on the Scottish
classic, Tower Ridge (IV), page 119. How to Use
Photo: Steve Broadbent Winter
Climbing
Grades
Conditions
& Ethics
Tactics
Weather &

Avalanches
Equipment

Tick List
Climbs By

Type

History
Index

8 INTRODUCTION | How to Use This Guide

HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE

The book is divided into colour-coded geographical area chapters, which can be
quickly located using the thumb-tabs at the side of the page.

Northern Highlands Borrowdale & Newlands Carneddau
Isle of Skye Blencathra Ogwen & Glyderau
Cairngorms Thirlmere Llanberis & Snowdon
Patterdale
Central Highlands Cadair Idris
Ben Nevis & Fort William Great Langdale
Wasdale
Glen Coe
Southern Highlands
SCOTLAND
LAKE DISTRICT
NORTH WALES

 Area Overviews
Each chapter starts with an overview map showing the location of all the featured
crags, and some background information about the area. This includes the geology,
history, and climbing signi cance of the area, as well as the odd piece of trivia to
entertain you while you're sitting in the pub waiting for the rain to stop.

 Maps and Guidebooks
Topographical maps are provided, showing the approach to each crag. However, these
are no substitute for carrying a separate map for use with a compass in poor weather.
The relevant maps are listed in the introduction to each area, along with recommended
guidebooks for climbers wishing to explore an area more thoroughly.

 Logistics
The majority of climbers travel by private vehicle, and this book has been written
with this approach in mind. In winter, many local tourist facilities are closed, so several
accommodation options, as well as a convenient pub, have been provided for each
valley base. After a long drive north, the best option may be to overnight in your car.
In Scotland, access laws permit wild camping, so long as this is done respectfully.
Be unobtrusive and leave no trace. In certain areas, wild camping is not permitted
for environmental reasons; this has been indicated where relevant. Wild camping in
England and Wales is illegal unless you have permission from the landowner.

 The Pubs
Whether the day has been a magni cent sunny alpine adventure or a classic sodden
Scottish winter experience, there is no better way to round it o than by enjoying a
reviving drink in one of the UK's many historic hostelries. For those who love tick lists,
here are all the pubs mentioned in this book – the ultimate winter climbing pub crawl!

 The Dundonnell Hotel Dundonnell  The Horse and Farrier Inn Threlkeld
 The Kinlochewe Hotel Torridon  The King's Head Inn Thirlmere
 The Torridon Inn Torridon  The Traveller's Rest Glenridding
 The Lochcarron Hotel Applecross  The Brotherswater Inn Brotherswater
 The Kintail Lodge Hotel Glen Shiel  The Wasdale Head Inn Wasdale
 The Sligachan Hotel Skye  The Old Dungeon Ghyll Langdale
 The Pine Marten Bar Aviemore  The Sticklebarn Langdale
 The Stronlossit Inn Roybridge  The New Dungeon Ghyll Langdale
 The Ben Nevis Inn Fort William  The Tyn-y-Coed Hotel Capel Curig
 The Clachaig Inn Glen Coe  The Heights Llanberis
 The Kingshouse Hotel Glen Coe  The Vaynol Arms Nant Peris
 The Inveroran Hotel Bridge of Orchy  The Pen-y-Gwryd Hotel Pen-y-Pass
 The Scafell Hotel Rosthwaite  The Torrent Walk Hotel Dolgellau

How to Use This Guide | INTRODUCTION 9

 Route Descriptions Intro
The route description pages have been designed across a double-page spread so How to Use
that they can be easily photographed if you don't want to carry the book up the Winter
climb. The routes are annotated with descriptive symbols as follows: Climbing

NE Aspect. The direction the climb faces. May di er on approaches/descents.

ALT Altitude. The lowest point on the route, for comparison with the freezing level. Grades
100m

1:00 Approximate approach time in hours and minutes. Conditions
! High avalanche risk. & Ethics
Tactics
Rare plants and vegetation. Do not climb unless fully frozen or banked out. Weather &
Winter routes depend on the inherently ephemeral nature of snow and ice, which Avalanches
may form di erently every year or even thaw and reform di erently later in the Equipment
season. Consequently, all descriptions and topos are a general indication rather
than an exact representation of reality and you should climb the route that has Tick List
formed, rather than the one described in this book. Pitch lengths are based upon Climbs By
the usual formation of routes, but may vary depending on what belays can be
found on the day. This is a big di erence from rock climbs, which can be dry or wet, Type
but whose holds do not change in size, angle, or existence.

 Topos
Each route is illustrated on a photo topo which shows the approximate line of
the climb, annotated with details of key passages. The topos also provide descent
information, useful notes and suggestions for which routes can be easily linked
together to create longer Mountain Days.
Route lines are colour-coded by grade as follows:

1 2 34

Grade I Grade II Grade III Grade IV

 Approach Maps
For each route, or group of routes on the same crag, a detailed map shows the best
way to approach on foot from the parking. These maps use various scales in order
to maximise coverage and clarity, but in each case they are overlaid with 1km grid
squares. Approaches and descents are marked as follows:

Approach: Descent:

 QR Codes History
To navigate to the parking area indicated on the approach map, scan the blue QR Index
code with your smartphone, or enter the 16-digit lat/long in Google Maps exactly
as shown.

Sligachan car park Scan the QR code with a smartphone, or enter
(free) the coordinates (with the comma as shown) in
Google Maps in order to navigate to the parking.
57.289585, -6.174567

28 INTRODUCTION | Tick List

Conor McCarthy enjoying fantastic
conditions on Idwal Stream (II/III,3/4),
Cwm Idwal. Page 301.
Photo: Francis Tocher

Tick List | INTRODUCTION 29

A wintry Bristly Ridge (II), page 277. Intro
The toothy ridge looks particularly How to Use
ne when rimed up.
Photo: Francis Tocher

Winter
Climbing

Grades

Conditions
& Ethics

Tactics

Weather &
Avalanches

NORTH WALES I 265 Equipment
I/II 265 Tick List
 73. Hourglass Gully, Cwm Lloer, Pen yr Ole Wen III,3 269 Climbs By
 74. Broad Gully, Cwm Lloer, Pen yr Ole Wen II,2 271
 75. Eastern Gully, Black Ladders I/II 275 Type
 76. Crib Lem, Craig Dafydd II 277
 77. North Ridge, Tryfan II 281 History
 78. Bristly Ridge, Glyder Fach III,3 283 Index
 79. Gribin Ridge, Glyder Fawr I/II 285
 80. Cnei on Arête, Cwm Cnei on II 287
 81. Tower Gully, Cwm Cnei on III,3 289
 82. Hidden Gully, Cwm Cnei on I/II,2 291
 83. Clogwyn Du Right-Hand Branch, Cwm Cnei on I/II 295
 84. Senior's Ridge, Cwm Cnei on II 297
 85. East Wall Gully, Idwal Slabs II/III 301
 86. Introductory Gully, Idwal Slabs III,4 303
 87. Idwal Stream, Devil's Kitchen III,4 305
 88. Central Route, Devil's Kitchen I 307
 89. The Ramp, Devil's Kitchen II 307
 90. C Gully, Cwm Clyd, Y Garn I/II 313
 91. Banana Gully, Cwm Clyd, Y Garn II,3 315
 92. Gyrn Lâs Ridge, Gyrn Lâs II/III 319
 93. Sargeant's Gully, Gyrn Lâs I 321
 94. Clogwyn y Person Arête, Upper Cwm Glas I/II 325
 95. Parsley Fern Gully, Upper Cwm Glas III,3 327
 96. Central Trinity, Trinity Face, Snowdon III,3 329
 97. Right Hand Trinity, Trinity Face, Snowdon I/II 331
 98. Ladies' Gully, Trinity Face, Snowdon II/III 335
 99. Crib Goch and Crib-y-Ddysgl, Snowdon
 100. Cyfrwy Arête, Cadair Idris

30 INTRODUCTION | Climbs By Type

A busy start to Aonach Eagach (II/III) on
the descent from Am Bodach. Page 149.
Photo: Kerry Mellor

CLIMBS BY TYPE

In winter the type of climb is often as important as the grade – perhaps avalanche risk
prescribes a ridge day or you want to sample a snow gully; maybe you don't want to
carry a lot of gear or you left the ice screws at home. The lists below organise the climbs
by type so that you can easily select a route for whatever kind of day you have in mind.
The grading of climbs is highly subjective and winter routes may vary by at least a
grade in either direction depending on conditions. Moreover, more remote routes o er
additional challenges – di cult navigation, changeable weather, long approaches
and complicated descents can transform even a technically easy climb into a major
undertaking. Such routes therefore require a broader set of skills and more mountain
experience than similarly graded climbs that are more accessible. Remoteness and lack
of tra c can make even quite popular Scottish climbs comparatively serious.

SCOTLAND

Classic Winter Ridges

Easy-angled ridges, becoming increasingly technical as the grade increases. Some may be lengthy outings.

 23. CMD Arête, Ben Nevis I 113
 7. Northeast Ridge, Sgùrr a' Basteir, Skye I 61
 2. Beinn Alligin Ridge Traverse, Northern Highlands I 47
 13. Fiacaill Ridge, Coire an t-Sneachda, Cairngorms I 79
 8. Northwest Ridge, Bruach na Frìthe, Skye I/II 63
 18. East Ridge, Beinn a' Chaorainn, Central Highlands I/II 95

 5. Forcan Ridge, Sgùrr na Forcan, Northern Highlands I/II 53

 3. Liathach Ridge Traverse, Northern Highlands II 49

 32. Dorsal Arête, Stob Coire nan Lochan, Glen Coe II 139

 28. Ledge Route, Ben Nevis II 127

 35. Sròn na Làirig, Stob Coire Sgreamhach, Glen Coe II 145
 1. An Teallach Ridge, Northern Highlands II 45

Climbs By Type | INTRODUCTION 31

Classic Snow Gullies Intro

Straightforward snow climbs at around 45 degrees, which may be corniced or have long run-outs. Gullies may contain How to Use
some water ice, particularly at grade II.

 40. Central Gully, Ben Lui, Southern Highlands I 157 Winter
 11. Aladdin's Couloir, Coire an t-Sneachda, Cairngorms I 75 Climbing

 10. Jacob's Ladder, Coire an t-Sneachda, Cairngorms I 73 Grades
 15. The Couloir, Coire an Lochain, Cairngorms
 27. Number Four Gully, Ben Nevis I 85 Conditions
 19. Raeburn's Gully, Creag Meagaidh & Ethics
 25. Number Two Gully, Ben Nevis I 125

I 99
II 121 Tactics

 31. Boomerang Gully, Stob Coire nan Lochan, Glen Coe II 137 Weather&
 12. The Runnel, Coire an t-Sneachda, Cairngorms II 77 Avalanches

Equipment

Ice Climbs & Harder Gullies Tick List
Climbs By
More substantial ice climbs and steeper snow gullies, usually with at least one longer ice pitch and possibly several
shorter ones. Type

 20. Staghorn Gully, Creag Meagaidh III 101

 38. Taxus, Beinn an Dothaidh, Southern Highlands III 153

 16. North Gully, Lurcher's Crag, Cairngorms III 89

 39. Sunshine Gully, Beinn Udlaidh, Southern Highlands III,4 155

 34. SC Gully, Stob Coire nan Lochan, Glen Coe III,3 143

 33. Twisting Gully, Stob Coire nan Lochan, Glen Coe III,4 141

 17. Central Gully, Lurcher's Crag, Cairngorms III 91

 21. Left Twin, Aonach Mòr III,4 109

Mixed Ridge & Buttress Routes

Buttress and ridge climbs with short technical sections requiring ice and mixed techniques.

 22. Golden Oldy, Aonach Mòr II 111 History
 37. Aonach Eagach Ridge, Glen Coe II/III 149 Index
 36. Curved Ridge, Buchaille Etive Mòr, Glen Coe II/III 147
 30. North Buttress East Ridge, Stob Bàn, Glen Coe II/III 131
 4. A' Chioch Traverse, Beinn Bhàn, Northern Highlands II/III 51
 9. Hidden Chimney, Coire an t-Sneachda, Cairngorms III 71
 14. The Milky Way, Coire an Lochain, Cairngorms III 83
 26. Number Three Gully Buttress, Ben Nevis III,4 123
 29. Castle Ridge, Ben Nevis III 129
 6. Pinnacle Ridge, Sgùrr nan Gillean, Skye III/IV 59
 24. Tower Ridge, Ben Nevis IV 119

32 INTRODUCTION | Climbs By Type

Lina Arthur and Steve Broadbent enjoying
the fantastic roadside ice of Newlands
Hause Waterfall (III), page 167.
Photo: Aileen Robertson

Climbs By Type | INTRODUCTION 33

THE LAKE DISTRICT I 223 Intro
I 189 How to Use
Classic Winter Ridges I 207
II 187 Winter
 61. East Ridge, Nethermost Pike II 227 Climbing
 49. Hall's Fell Ridge, Blencathra Grades
 53. Striding Edge & Swirral Edge, Helvellyn I 235 Conditions
 48. Sharp Edge, Blencathra I 239 & Ethics
 63. Pinnacle Ridge, St Sunday Crag I 253 Tactics
I 211 Weather &
Classic Snow Gullies I 183 Avalanches
I 247 Equipment
 66. South Gully, Bowfell, Langdale I/II 213 Tick List
 71. Jack's Rake, Pavey Ark, Langdale I/II 225 Climbs By
 68. Long Gully, Pikes Crag, Wasdale I/II 199
 55. Gully 2, Red Tarn Cove, Helvellyn II 211 Type
 47. Cust's Gully, Great End, Borrowdale II 219
 69. Lord's Rake, West Wall Traverse, Deep Ghyll, Wasdale II 231 History
 57. Castye Cam Gully, Catstye Cam Index
 62. Nethermost Gully, Lad Crag II,3 177
 52. Central Gully, Brown Cove Crags, Thirlmere II,2 179
 56. Gully 1, Red Tarn Cove, Helvellyn II/III 237
 59. South Gully, Dollywaggon North Crag II/III 181
 65. South Gully, Dove Crag II/III 229
II/III 255
Ice Climbs & Harder Gullies III 217
III 167
 44. Southeast Gully, Great End, Borrowdale III,4 221
 45. Central Gully Right Branch, Great End, Borrowdale III/IV 193
 67. Whorneyside Force, Langdale
 46. Window Gully, Great End, Borrowdale III 209
 64. Pendulum Gully, Scrubby Crag III 249
 72. C Gully, Pikes Crag, Wasdale III 197
 58. Dollywaggon Gully, Falcon Crag III 173
 41. Newlands Hause Waterfall, Newlands III 171
 60. Jogebar Gully, Ruthwaite Cove
 50. Launchy Ghyll, Thirlmere

Mixed Ridge & Buttress Routes

 54. V-Corner, Red Tarn Cove, Helvellyn
 70. Deep Ghyll Integrale, Scafell Crag, Wasdale
 51. Stepped Ridge, Brown Cove Crags, Thirlmere
 43. Central Gully, Gable Crag, Borrowdale
 42. Pinnacle Ridge, Gable Crag, Borrowdale

34 INTRODUCTION | Climbs By Type

On Crib Goch (I), page 331, with
ne views of Trinity Face.
Photo: Kerry Mellor

NORTH WALES I/II,2 291
I/II 275
Classic Winter Ridges I/II 331
I/II 313
 84. Senior's Ridge, Cwm Cnei on II 281
 77. North Ridge, Tryfan II 271
 99. Crib Goch and Crib-y-Ddysgl, Snowdon II 277
 92. Gyrn Lâs Ridge, Gyrn Lâs
 79. Gribin Ridge, Glyder Fawr I 265
 76. Crib Lem, Craig Dafydd I 307
 78. Bristly Ridge, Glyder Fach I 321
I/II 265
Classic Snow Gullies I/II 295
I/II 285
 73. Hourglass Gully, Cwm Lloer, Pen yr Ole Wen I/II 325
 91. Banana Gully, Cwm Clyd, Y Garn II 287
 95. Parsley Fern Gully, Upper Cwm Glas II 307
 74. Broad Gully, Cwm Lloer, Pen yr Ole Wen II 297
 85. East Wall Gully, Idwal Slabs
 81. Tower Gully, Cwm Cnei on
 96. Central Trinity, Trinity Face, Snowdon
 82. Hidden Gully, Cwm Cnei on
 90. C Gully, Cwm Clyd, Y Garn
 86. Introductory Gully, Idwal Slabs

Climbs By Type | INTRODUCTION 35

Climbers nearing the top of Intro
Parsley Fern Gully (I), page 321.
Photo: Lina Arthur How to Use
Winter
Ice Climbs & Harder Gullies Climbing
Grades
 93. Sargeant's Gully, Gyrn Lâs Conditions
 87. Idwal Stream, Cwm Idwal & Ethics
 89. The Ramp, Devil's Kitchen Tactics
 88. Central Route, Devil's Kitchen Weather &
 83. Clogwyn Du Right-Hand Branch, Cwm Cnei on
 97. Right Hand Trinity, Trinity Face, Snowdon Avalanches
 98. Ladies' Gully, Trinity Face, Snowdon Equipment
 75. Eastern Gully, Black Ladders
Tick List
Mixed Ridge & Buttress Routes Climbs By

 100. Cyfrwy Arête, Cadair Idris Type
 94. Clogwyn y Person Arête, Upper Cwm Glas
 80. Cnei on Arête, Cwm Cnei on II,3 315
II/III 301
III,4 305
III,4 303
III,3 289
III,3 327
III,3 329
III,3 269

III,3 335
II/III 319
III,3 283

History
Index

36 SCOTLAND Scotland Map Page 39

Chapter 1
SCOTLAND

Scotland Map Page 39 SCOTLAND 37

The Cuillin Ridge from the summit of Bruach na Frìthe.
The complete traverse of the ridge in winter is one
of the nest winter mountaineering expeditions in
Britain and the closest in character and length to
routes in the Alps. At grade IV it falls outwith the
scope of this book, but is more often in condition than
you might think, and worth making a long-term goal.
Photo: Lina Arthur

38 SCOTLAND Scotland Map Page 39

Aileen Robertson tops out into a winter
wonderland from Beinn a' Chaorainn's
East Ridge (I/II), page 95.
Photo: Lina Arthur

Scotland Map Page 39 SCOTLAND 39

LEWIS N Scourie SCOTLAND OVERVIEW MAP
WE
0km 10km 20km 30km 40km 50km 60km 70km
S

Ledmore Lairg

Northern Highlands p41 Clashmore
A82
Ullapool Invershin
A9
Dundonnell Tain
Poolewe
A835
Elgin Buckie
Achnasheen
SKYE Kinlochewe Dingwall Nairn Forres

Torridon Inverness  Keith

Portree Craigellachie

Lochcarron

Skye p55 Grantown A95
on Spey Tomintoul
Sligachan Kyle of Lochalsh Dornie M90 Colnabaichin
Kyleakin Shiel Bridge A9 M74Carrbridge

A87 A82 Invermoriston Cairngorms p65
Aviemore
Armadale
RUM Mallaig Invergarry Kingussie

Central Highlands p93 Braemar Ballater

A830 Spean Bridge Roybridge Dalwhinnie
Pitlochry
Fort William Spittal of
Glenshee
Corran Ben Nevis p103
GlencoeA82
MULL Glen Coe p133

Southern Highlands p151

Tyndrum Dundee
Perth A90 
Crianlarich
Crie
St. Andrews

Arrochar Tarbert

Stirling
JURA Lochgilphead A83 Kirkcaldy
A77
M80 Falkirk M9 EDINBURGH
M77
A702Greenock GLASGOW

M8

ISLAY

ARRAN Ardrossan

Brodick Irvine A71

 Kilmarnock

Ayr

40 NORTHERN HIGHLANDS Scotland Map Page 39

1:500,000 20km Little Loch Broom Loch BroomUllapool
0km 5km 10km 15km
AN TREIADLGLEACH Dundonnell A835
Loch (page 45)
Ewe
Poolewe An Teallach
Loch Gairloch
Fionn Loch BeinMn òDrearg A832 DBeeianrng
A835

A832 Loch MMhuicllFahcehaCrochiraeir Sgurr Mor

Ma re Slioch Loch Fannich

e A832
Achnasheen
BEINN ALLIGIN LIATHACH
TRAVERSE TRAVERSE
L (page 47) DBeeianrng (page 49) Kinlochewe
o ch ABLELIINGNI N EA896
BEINN
Torridon LIATH ACH EIG H
DSguùbrhr
Inveralligin

Upper Loch Torridon Torridon

Shieldaig A896 DBeaimnnChheaMna-odleaRSruggaodrrh A890
A' CHÌOCH LuMnnadoailiedh
TRAVERSE
(page 51)

Beinn Bhàn ChSagoùrarrchaa' in

a'ChaSogrùarcrhain Ardarroch Loch Carron Strathcarron Loch Monar ChoSigrùerGr hal'ais
Loch Kisho rn Lochcarron Attadale

Stromeferry SLgaùprarincha
Loch Mullardoch
Kyle of FhioBneninlanidhC A R N E I G H E
Lochalsh

Loch Alsh

SKYE L oAc8h7D u i c h CeaStghùrerranmahnnan SLgaùprarincha

Sound of Sleat Shiel Bridge F I V E SBI SeiTnEnRFShada FraMocuhll-acchhoire
FORCAN RIDGE

(page 53)

Loch Hourn The Saddle Loch Cluanie

Scotland Map Page 39 NORTHERN HIGHLANDS 41

The two classic ridges of Beinn Alligin (page 47)
and Liathach (page 49), seen from Beinn Bhàn.
Photo: Lina Arthur

NORTHERN HIGHLANDS

The Northern Highlands cover a huge area north and west of the Great Glen, comprising Northern
roughly a third of Scotland. The region is sparsely populated, and although roads have Highlands
improved access, they tend to hug the shoreline. Further inland is an uncompromisingly
rugged and spectacular wilderness. This is an ancient landscape, with wooded glens Skye
and dramatic steep peaks soaring above the sea. Despite the isolation, however, even
An Teallach is less than two hours north of Kyle of Lochalsh and the climbing more than Cairngorm
rewards the long drive. The ridges featured here are the most popular mountaineering Central
outings in the area, but even these can often be enjoyed in solitude. Highlands

The foundations of this incredible landscape are among the oldest in Europe. Lewisian gneiss was laid down
around three billion years ago and on this stand rock islands (inselbergs) ofTorridonian Sandstone, carved
and eroded by centuries of glacial action.The highest peaks in the area, including Liathach and AnTeallach,
are topped by Cambrian Quartzite, which protected the softerTorridonian Sandstone from erosion.

South of Torridon, the isolated peninsula of Applecross is believed to have been one of the earliest BenNevis
settled parts of Scotland. To the west, across the sea, lie Skye and Raasay and to the east is a cluster of

mountains that includes Beinn Bhàn. Applecross was accessible only by boat until the early twentieth Glen Coe

century, and for many years after that only by the treacherous road across the Bealach na Bà, Britain's Southern
highest road outside the Cairngorms. A winding coast road now connects the peninsula to Torridon. Highlands

The Northern Highlands have a comparatively mild climate, moderated by the North Atlantic Drift,
and are on average warmer than the mountains to the south. Nevertheless, in 1995 a low of -27.2ºC
was recorded, matching the UK record set at Braemar. Snow lasts well at higher elevations and is less
susceptible to thaw than in Glen Coe or the south, though it is less reliable than around Ben Nevis or in
the Cairngorms. Conditions are best from January to March, but vary widely across the area. An Teallach
is less a ected by the mild maritime climate, but its approach is more committing in dubious weather.

Petrol is more expensive north of Inverness. There is an unmanned petrol station in Applecross, but many
petrol stations further north are not open on Sundays or 24/7.

42 NORTHERN HIGHLANDS Scotland Map Page 39

The upper section of the sublime
Forcan Ridge (I/II), approaching the
summit of The Saddle. Page 53.
Photo: Lina Arthur

Scotland Map Page 39 NORTHERN HIGHLANDS 43

Alpine conditions for the Beinn
AlliginRidgeTraverse(I), page 47.
Photo: Mark Stevenson

Guidebook: Northern Highlands South (SMC, 2007); Scottish Winter Climbs (SMC, 2016). Northern
Highlands
Map: OS Explorer 435 – An Teallach & Slioch; OS Explorer 433 – Torridon, Beinn Eighe & Liathach; OS
Explorer 428 – Kyle of Lochalsh, Plockton & Applecross; OS Explorer 414 – Glen Shiel & Kintail Forest. Skye

Pubs: An Teallach – The Broombeg Bar at the Dundonnell Hotel is only open from the beginning of Cairngorm
March, but there are good options in Ullapool throughout the season, including the Argyll Hotel and Central
the Arch Inn. Highlands
Torridon – The Kinlochewe Hotel has a good bar and quality food. The Torridon Inn o ers decent food Ben Nevis
and ales, but in winter it is closed Monday to Wednesday and only open until 5pm on Sundays.
Applecross – The Lochcarron Hotel is the best option on o er locally. Alternatively, head to Torridon. Glen Coe
Glen Shiel –The Kintail Lodge Hotel has a good but slightly pricey bar menu.The experimental may wish to Southern
try the Cluanie Inn. Highlands
Accommodation: An Teallach – Badrallach bothy & campsite.
Torridon – There is a free campsite adjacent to the youth hostel in Torridon village. The SMC Ling Hut
is also close by.
Applecross – Sanachan Bunkhouse is open all year and the owners give a warm welcome to fellow
winter mountaineers.
Glen Shiel – The Kintail Lodge Hotel has a bunkhouse. There is parking opposite the Cluanie Inn and
just up the quiet road to Cluanie Lodge, 100m east along the A87 from the pub.
All these areas can also be accessed in around 1½ hours from the comfort of budget hotels in
Inverness, as the A835 trunk road from Inverness to Ullapool is kept clear throughout the winter
months, though it can take a few days to reopen after heavy snowfall.

92 CENTRAL HIGHLANDS Scotland Map Page 39

Carn Dearg 1:150,000
0km 1km 2km 3km 4km

Carn Dearg

GLEN ROY

BChreàangaain' BeBaenangaain

map MheaMnbeahl-lcah'ruidh CREAG
Carn Dearg MEAGAIDH
MeCaregaagidh (page 97) P
Beinn
Teallach Loch Laggan
BSinhnuaeisn
ChBaeionrnaian'n BEINN A'
CHAORAINN

(page 95)

Moy

DChreuabgh P A86
Glen Spean P

Laggan
Dam

Tulloch
Station

Beinn a'
Chlachair
a i r i g
An L

Loch Treig Chno Dearg ABoenaagch
EBibehininnn
SMtohbeaa'dChhooiinre

Scotland Map Page 39 CENTRAL HIGHLANDS 93

Walking out from Creag Meagaidh.
Photo: Mark Stevenson

CENTRAL HIGHLANDS

Driving along the A86 in transit between the mountains of Lochaber and the Cairngorms, Northern
the inattentive climber might easily pass by the rolling hills that line the north side of Glen Highlands
Spean. However, whilst there is little of interest here for the summer rock-seeker, for the
winter mountaineer, these hills hold hidden treasures, including one of the best winter
climbing venues in Scotland: Coire Ardair on the northeastern face of Creag Meagaidh.

Creag Meagaidh is a complex, sprawling mountain, whose extensive, at summit plateau has ve Skye
radiating ridges that enclose deep ice-hewn corries. The nest of these is Coire Ardair, whose cli s

extend over 3km and are nearly 500m high. The corrie is best avoided in summer, but in winter its Cairngorm
cli s are transformed into a climbing paradise. The area surrounding Creag Meagaidh was made a
Central
National Nature Reserve in 1985, and was one of the rst places in Scotland to reduce the numbers Highlands
of deer and sheep in order to permit the natural regeneration of trees and woodland. Separated from

the Creag Meagaidh massif to the east by Coire na h-Uamha (corrie of the cave) is Beinn a' Chaorainn, BenNevis

which rises, white and corniced, from the forests below. Glen Coe
Being centrally located can be the best or worst of both worlds – the area often escapes the worst

of the weather to the west, making it a good backup option for Ben Nevis, but the Central Highlands Southern
Highlands
can also get lashed by bad weather from either side of the country!

Guidebook: Ben Nevis Rock and Ice Climbs (SMC, 2002); Scottish Winter Climbs (SMC, 2016); Winter
Climbs in the Cairngorms (Cicerone, 2011).

Map: OS Explorer 55 – Loch Laggan & Creag Meagaidh; Harveys Superwalker – Ben Alder.

Pubs: The Stronlossit Inn in Roybridge provides excellent food, ales and whiskies.

Accommodation: Roadside bivouacs are common, but the SMC's Raeburn Hut or the Aite Cruinnichidh
hostel just outside Roybridge are more pleasant alternatives.

94 East Ridge | BEINN A' CHAORAINN Scotland Map Page 39

Descent: From the summit, walk across to the Caution: Beinn a' Chaorainn usually boasts large
StfB(Fbtoo6hroahor0euctaem6hkteisdhmetattreosTph1ctBighCfy)attorootle9raa.hoontaphnerrFs9nreumgnanaeaodr(4aaacattocit1tecachdvikpsmt0ccacroetie,woeagilu4rbCnaroe.bhanra9soieosDnae:oeseestmtlratweouBtidlwrfildiwseeany)seediaoee,,ntln'ieeivoltnakehrnnckseeeainenlgeenasejtelrnbuegiaohfrlf6dbfaleprisdeieeetn2dely'tlihlefnysne8SCdailcrbre.cogSm1phouceaeiyDeEmA4nnpcranconvbtta0lorltdpltlheoeotlnsytmrhnoaroeaafedMaaaeosocrocip,sonpklnlthMorefmoalusadponot,favrfentatrwrwaatlliahbohaaltksdptsuxhoBliereedtfnslbgisnrhaihom,wBcooapoieasilathgshmwuiataahstctilsardetttlytoyeeeothrebiM.l.elrgdiayaacleneeOatyiederlhirpslginignsaconas6erhaaeenrwle03lctetnseas0ioh.qndlAdtecmipAouhndrgpaslvi.eeertreaihneldnodtedudghiratsfcl3nuoeoolniAcdqrpfdtktpeusuyesanrian.rnidtlenBAaeog1ddotldwet9erthgdlc9hoyboroe4aeenurarsantlalgCowtlaivhocwwciocelgai,loestiawrtenreibthesasefeoiielnssdtkiualtownleegvst1rereehaasce4edfblofd0eenrlftemloaerhyidomrt.celsmtyuirhncssrveresvphoinepseouairtabaviorgroaelnraheuldtvnsateoihoasninpnitedbdamjbcuiorsleotioragteiryupelynne.btssigh,Ocsyetoeinhts;rhnee
between the summits, howevBeCrutoei dmi rhpeteing it may be.

Allt a' Chaorainn Coire na EAST RIDGE
h-Uamha

Beinn a' Boggy Allt na h-Uamha
Chaorainn 1052 ground

1049

Plantation

Coire
Clachaig

Allt Meall Bhàideanach
628

606

Meall
Bhàideanach

(104D9emsc)e, sntta:yFinrogmLwayte-hblylecosnleutahmerAmo8f6itt,hheelaadrgteoctohbDrenlioriSceokeceutsdtdthobeysTtochdepeneetrast. Bridge
From here, head5s6o.8u9t9h5-0e, -a4s.6t4,5a1g0ain with care tofeanpcper!oximately
600m. From the gap between 628m and Meall Bhaideanach Alternative
(606m) head east, following the course of the Allt Meall approach
Bhaideanach to the plantation fence line and follow this until
you reach the forestry track used on the approach, which can Road
be followed back to the parking. Dont go direPctly south from
the summit of MealAl B8h6aideanach,Pas there is a deer fence. bridge P

Roughburn Reservoir

Scotland Map Page 39 BEINN A' CHAORAINN | East Ridge 95

Photo: Gwilym Starks
(Wet and High Adventures)

18

2:10

18. East Ridge E ALT 2:00
695m

BEINN A' CHAORAINN (mountain of the rowan)
Conditions: An excellent option in most snow conditions. The ridge and the approach are somewhat
sheltered from westerly winds.
Parking: Limited space at the entrance to the forestry track. Otherwise, larger lay-bys at 56.898235,
-4.651343 or across the bridge at 56.900627, -4.627315. Northern
Approach: The easiest approach is from parking at the end of a forestry track (space for several vehicles, Highlands

but be considerate and avoid blocking access). The well-made forestry tracks are easily negotiated and Skye
though a little longer than a direct approach (there is currently a bridge beside the ford) are considerably
easier going. Follow tracks through the plantation, then head east up to the foot of the ridge. The lower Cairngorm
slopes of Beinn a' Chaorainn are boggy and easier if you are not breaking trail.
Not to be confused with the mountain of the same name in the Cairngorms, Beinn a' Central
Highlands

Chaorainn's East Ridge o ers a picturesque climb with a distinctly alpine feel. The route Ben Nevis
is at its best with good névé or frozen turf – wading upwards through powder may feel
less than secure. From the South Top there are splendid views of the whole chain of the
Grey Corries, Aonach Mòr and Aonach Beag, and a glimpse of Ben Nevis. Beware incut Glen Coe
cornices between the summits, which have caused numerous accidents.
18. East Ridge I/II Southern
Highlands

300m. Climb the start of the ridge easily to
a atter section before the rst steepening.
Ascend this on the right (north), then head left
up short gullies.
The second steep section can be climbed directly
(crux) or turned on the right. From here, follow
the ridge crest as closely as possible and nish
directly up the snow slope to the summit. Cornices on the summit
of Beinn a' Chaorainn.

96 CREAG MEAGAIDH Scotland Map Page 39

Pinnacle Easy Post Face ThCeoIrnrnieer WiTnhdeow
Bu ress Gully

19
20

BChreàangaain' Mt-Senalaliamn Càrn Liath
PtaMrmeaigllan

Sròn Coire a'
Chriochairein

LRoocyh StobAProditaeirCoire Allt Coire Ardair CnaNpaanan
Aberarder Forest
WTihnedow
LUoacihnaen StaghornGully aL' oCchhoainre SCrhòonirae'
Gully Coire
Easy Ardair Allt Bealach a' Ghoire
Cairn RaGeulblyurn's

Creag Footbridge Aberarder
Meagaidh
CREAG PuAisrtdCaoirire P
MEAGAIDH

ChLoCoicollhierae-rnais Creag Meagaidh A86 LOCH LAGGAN
car park (free)
56.951706, -4.496021

Area Map Page 92 CREAG MEAGAIDH 97

CREAG MEAGAIDH (Routes 19–20)

Creag Meagaidh (the crag of the bog) is a sprawling whale-backed ridge between Laggan and Spean Northern
Bridge, whose at summit plateau has ve radial ridges, enclosing deep glacier-hewn corries. The Highlands
nest is Coire Ardair, with its massive headwall of mica schist. Over 3km long and nearly 500m high,
these are some of the highest cli s in Britain and in winter they are one of Scotland's best climbing Skye
venues. The routes here are classics on a par with those on Ben Nevis and are very reliable, though
being lower in altitude they require more cold weather to freeze the lower sections. Since the crag is Cairngorm
wet in summer, the climbs usually only require cold weather to come into condition. Central
Highlands
The gullies o er excellent early-season water-ice climbing, but are best in cold settled spells in
February or March after snow has built up and refrozen. The corries are seriously avalanche-prone
and accumulate huge cornices, which are dangerous during thaws and after heavy snow.

Parking: Creag Meagaidh National Nature Reserve car park on the A86 at Arberarder (free).

Approach: Follow the footpath northwest towards the farmhouse (National Nature Reserve Centre), Ben Nevis
pass to its right (east), and head up the path, which keeps well above the north side of the Allt Coire Glen Coe
Ardair through a wood. The path makes a wide curve westwards (left), bringing the cli s into view, and Southern
descends 500m before Lochan a' Choire, running beside the stream to the lochan's outlet. Pause here to Highlands
orientate yourself, then skirt round the lochan, heading up easy slopes to the routes.

Descent: There are two main descents; if visiting the summit, descent via theWindow gives a scenic circuit.

Via Sròn a' Choire – Head southeast over Puist Coire Ardair (indistinct), then east round the corrie rim
to the summit of Sròn a' Choire (old fence posts 25m from edge). Follow the ridge ENE down the left
(north) bank of the Allt Bealach a' Ghoire and pick up the path back to the car park via a bridge.

Via the Window: From the top of the route, head northwest across the plateau. When the plateau
starts to drop markedly, veer WNW (left) to avoid a rocky buttress. A line of fence posts leads down to
the Window. Descend east to the oor of Coire Ardair (possible bum-slide) and retrace the approach.

It is also possible to descend Easy Gully (I), keeping right (away from Post Face) until below the steep section.

98 Raeburn's Gully | CREAG MEAGAIDH Scotland Map Page 39

Descent: Head southeast over Puist Coire Caution: The summit plateau of Creag Meagaidh
Ardair (indistinct), then east round the corrie rim to is very at and featureless, so careful navigation is
the summit of Sròn a' Choire (old fence posts 25m required. Many climbers have been benighted here or
from edge). Follow the ridge ENE down the left descended into the wrong corrie.
(north) bank of the Allt Bealach a' Ghoire and pick
up the path back to the car park via a bridge.
Alternatively, especially if visiting the summit (1.5km),
descending via theWindow gives a pleasant circuit of
Coire Ardair (see page 97).

Pinnacle Bu ress

Very steep B
top section!

The Blue
Icicle

Smi(tVhI',s5G) ully
The Fly Direct
(VII,6)

A

19

2:30

Area Map Page 92 CREAG MEAGAIDH | Raeburn's Gully 99

Sròdnesac' Cenhtoire Pinnacle
Bu ress

Post Face The Inner WiTnhdeow
Corrie
B Staghorn Gully
(page 101)

A
19

Lochan a' Crag map
Choire page 97

19. Raeburn's Gully ! NE ALT 2:30
850m

CREAG MEAGAIDH (crag of the boggy place)
First ascent: H. Raeburn, C. Walker, H, Walker, 31 October 1903.
Conditions: Can be climbed on water ice early in the season in cold weather, but best during a cold
settled spell in February or March after heavy snowfall earlier in the winter. The corrie is prone to very
severe avalanches and there are many accidents here. Avoid during thaws.
Parking: Creag Meagaidh Nature Reserve car park on the A86 at Aberarder.
Approach: Via the path on the north side of the Allt Coire Ardair. Cross the outlet of Lochan a' Choire and Northern
skirt round south of the lochan, then head southwest up easy slopes to the wide mouth of Raeburn's Gully. Highlands

The approach is hard work in deep, soft snow. Skye

A classic and very sustained snow gully in one of Scotland's best winter climbing venues, Cairngorm
with dramatic views of Pinnacle Buttress. Born in 1865, Harold Raeburn was one of
the leading mountaineers of the early twentieth century, making rst ascents of many
classic winter routes including Green Gully (IV,4), Crowberry Gully (IV,4) and Observatory Central
Ridge (V,4 with a single long axe and no crampons!), as well as many pioneering Highlands

summer rock climbs. This is one of the best of the many gullies named after him. Ben Nevis

19. Raeburn's Gully I Alternatives:
A. Eastern Corner III
360m. The deep left-slanting gully left of Glen Coe
300m. The rst ice line left of Raeburn's Gully, Southern
Pinnacle Buttress. Highlands
Climb the long gully, which is surprisingly steep beyond a narrow buttress, unsurprisingly takes
and sustained. Two-thirds of the way up, the the deep corner.
Blue Icicle, a chandelier of blue ice, often forms Climb excellent steep ice (hard if continuous)
on the wall of Pinnacle Buttress. This can create for 150m, then steep snow to the plateau. The
a sheltering windbreak, but in thaw it collapses, cornice may be tricky.
hurling chunks of ice down the gully.
The top 40m of the route is the steepest (though B. Easy Gully I
still just about grade I) and often has sections
of ice in early-season conditions. Not normally 450m. The easy left-slanting gully between
badly corniced, but can be awkward; stick to the
right wall of the gully for the easiest exit. Pinnacle Buttress and Post Face.
Climb the narrow gully, which widens halfway up.
The easiest line goes left below the steep section
at mid-height.

158 THE LAKE DISTRICT Cumbria Map Page 161

Chapter 2
THE LAKE
DISTRICT

Cumbria Map Page 161 THE LAKE DISTRICT 159

Looking west from the Far Eastern Fells
towards Helvellyn and the central Lake District.
Photo: Lina Arthur

160 THE LAKE DISTRICT Cumbria Map Page 161

A multitude of fantastic routes can be
seen from the top of Pinnacle Ridge (II),
St Sunday Crag. Page 227.
Photo: Lina Arthur

Cumbria Map Page 161 THE LAKE DISTRICT 161

AllonbyAspatria Wigton CUMBRIA OVERVIEW MAP
Maryport
A596 0km 5km 10km 15km 20km
A595

Torpenhow
Bothel

Cockermouth Bassenthwaite PENRITH
Workington
A66 Borrowdale & Newlands page 163 Mungrisdale Penruddock A66 A66
Blencathra page 185

Pardshaw High Lorton Keswick Threlkeld Pooley Bridge M6
Mockerkin Watermillock A65
A595
Whitehaven M6Patterdale page 201
Thirlmere page 191
Frizington Kirkland Buttermere Grange Glenridding
Rosthwaite Patterdale
Cleator Ennerdale
Moor Bridge

Egremont

BCrailddgeer Wasdale Head A591

Wasdale page 241 Langdale Chapel Grasmere
Cockley Beck pageS23t3ile
Gosforth Ambleside
Santon
Bridge Skelwith
A595 EGskredeanle Bridge
Windermere
A591

Hawkshead Staveley

Ravenglass Bowness

Ulpha Torver

KENDAL

A595 Binro-Fuugrhnteosns- Newby Levens
Bridge
Millom A590

N Barrow-in- Ulverston Milnthorpe
WE Furness ovGerra-nSganed- s Arnside

S BE BAY Carnforth

E C A M

M O R Morecambe

226 Pinnacle Ridge | ST SUNDAY CRAG Cumbria Map Page 161

Notch

Pinnacles
Crux corner on right in
niche (not the grooves on
the left of the slab)

The Tower

Unpleasant bypass – descend
into the gully on the left, go
up the slope on its left, then
traverse back across the gully to
regain the ridge above the corner

The Finger

63

1:30

Descent: Head northeast along the ridge and Tactics: Many parties will move together for much
down Thornhow End to join the approach track back of the route but will appreciate a rope for the crux.
to Grisedale Bridge. For those wishing to visit it, Mountain Day: Taking in the small summit of
the summit of St Sunday Crag is 400m south across Birks is a pleasant way to enliven the descent and
the plateau. prolong the good views without adding much time
Y Gully (Right Fork) can sometimes be used as a or ascent. Those wishing to extend the day might
descent route to the valley if it contains enough head southwest down Deepdale Hause to take in
snow and the cornice at the top is passable. Cofa Pike and Fair eld and descend via Hartsop
above How ridge.

Area Map Page 201 ST SUNDAY CRAG | Pinnacle Ridge 227

Crag map St Sunday Crag
page 215
63 A BC
Blind Cove

Traverse
right to route

Elmhow Main path continues
Plantation towards Grisedale Tarn

Turbnalrenft&agtastteone Crossing
Plantation

63. Pinnacle Ridge ! NW ALT 1:30
600m

ST SUNDAY CRAG
First ascent: I. Wall & S. Parr, 24 February 1977.
Conditions: Good snow build-up is rare, so the gullies here are often not complete, but the ridge needs

only a freeze and a fall of snow.The convex summit slopes can accumulate snow, posing avalanche risk.
Parking: Grisedale Bridge (£5 at start of track) or car park in Glenridding (£8).
Borrowdale
Approach: From Patterdale, follow the tarmac road until it swings right. Continue along the well-made &Newlands

track up Grisedale to the western end of Elmhow Plantation. Just past a barn, go through a gate and Blencathra
follow a path up beside the wall and across the beck. Shortly afterwards the path turns right and zigzags

up the fell. At the lip of Blind Cove, traverse right (southwest) along a terrace. Cross two small scree/ Thirlmere
snow chutes, then a larger scree area. Go up the far side of this to the ridge (54.516005, -2.978001).

A ne climb in a fantastic position overlooking Grisedale, Pinnacle Ridge is short but Patterdale
sweet, and is at its best in its winter plumage, when the pinnacles are particularly Langdale
photogenic. Though hard to discern from below, the climb ows well and all di culties
can be avoided if desired (award yourself grade III if the whole ridge is taken direct).

63. Pinnacle Ridge II the serrated ridge crest. Enjoy the pinnacles, then Wasdale
make a short down-climb from the nal pinnacle
180m. A number of lines can be taken initially. into a notch. Continue up the main fellside,
nishing up a nal stack of spiky blocks on the left.
Climb blocks and ledges to the ridge. Keep to
the right edge (airy!) and do not stray onto Alternatives:
easier ground in the gully to the left. Aim for a
left-pointing‘ nger’above. Climb the slabby right 7A0. mEa.sTthCe hguollcykosftteonnhaesGtwuolrloyckI/sItIeps.
side of the nger (exposed step) and continue up
easier ground to the foot of a large tower. Make 6B5. YmG. Auplloyss(iRbliegdhestcFenotrifkt)heI cornice is passable.
your way round left of this into a recessed niche.
At the back right-hand side of the niche, climb 7C0. Wme.sThteCghuollychkasstaornocek Gully I/II
the awkward 5m corner (crux) to a ledge with a step at half height.
pinnacle belay.The bypass (see topo) is unpleasant. Near the top it is possible to cross the rib to Y Gully.
Climb up blocks, with a‘heightist’mantle-y step, to

236 Whorneyside Force | CRINKLE CRAGS Cumbria Map Page 161

Mountain Day: Continue up Hell Gill,
or take in a route on Bowfell Buttress or
the ice routes of Angle Tarn (page 235).

Boulder
belay

Obpeltaioynoanl rorcskt

67 1:00

Descent: To regain the foot of
the route, make your way down the
steep hillside to the pool. Alternatively,
descend the main path which leads
easily back to the footbridge.

Area Map Page 233 CRINKLE CRAGS | Whorneyside Force 237

Esk Pike ATnagrnle RoPsikseett HSatricriksloen STtiacrknle
Hanging CLroafgt TChroargn
Knotts Gimmer
Crag
Ore Gap Rossett Gill

Bowfell Buttress M i c Cumbria Old Dungeon Ghyll
Bowfell Great Slab en car park (National Trust)
k l e Way
Flat Crags
The Links d 54.445195, -3.102641

Old Dungeon B5343
Ghyll Hotel
Three Tarns Hell Gill The Band Stool End Farm
Shelter A WHORNEYSIDE P
Crags FORCE
National Trust
Campsite

Bridge Oxendale

CCrrinakglse Gunson Crinkle GillTake faint path
Knott right beside

stream at bridge Kettle
Crag

TBalerna

67. Whorneyside Force E ALT 1:00
300m

CRINKLE CRAGS Borrowdale
Conditions: The icefall requires a period of sustained cold to form and rarely stays in condition for long. & Newlands
Parking: Old Dungeon Ghyll National Trust car park (Pay & Display).
Approach: Follow the track to Stool End Farm, then head through the farmyard and take the Blencathra

footpath southwest. At a fork, bear left (the right fork leads up The Band to Bowfell) and continue up Thirlmere
the valley (often icy). Cross the footbridge and immediately turn right up a faint path following the

beck to the broad pool at the foot of the icefall. Patterdale

Tucked away beneath Crinkle Crags, the imposing cascade of Whorneyside Force plunges Langdale
dramatically to the pool below, described by Tony Greenbank as ‘a candlestick of ice as Wasdale
white as toothpaste’. Though it does not freeze every winter, when the requisite long cold
spell comes around it o ers brilliant climbing and is a fantastic introduction to Cumbrian
water ice. This is a popular route, so beware falling ice and keep well clear if there are
parties above.

67. Whorneyside Force II/III Alternatives:
A. Hell Gill III/IV
70m. An outstanding outing. The rst two
300m. Start upstream to the right of
pitches can be climbed as one long pitch.
1) 30m. Climb the rst icefall to belay on rock at Whorneyside Gill, where the path crosses the
the right of the icefall. stream. Climb this SSSI only when fully frozen.
2) 25m. Continue up the next fall, picking a line Follow the ghyll through the deep, striking ravine,
depending on conditions and crowds, to reach a negotiating small icefalls and pools. The last fall
wide pool where you can sling a large boulder. rarely forms, but if it does it can be climbed direct
3) 15m. Continue more easily up a nal short at grade IV. The right-hand branch (III) up a steep,
pitch at the back of the pool. mossy corner is more reliable.

256 NORTH WALES Wales Map Page 259

Wales Map Page 241 NORTH WALES 257

Snowdon and Crib Goch (page 331)
from above.
Photo: Steve Broadbent

Chapter 3

NORTH
WALES

258 NORTH WALES Wales Map Page 259

Tim Culwick tackles the fantastic
Sargeant's Gully (II,3), page 315.
Photo: Marion Wyllie

Wales Map Page 241 NORTH WALES 259

Llanerch-y-medd

Benllech Llandudno

Valley Colwyn Bay
Conwy

Llangefni Beaumaris A55 Penmaenmawr

A55 BANGOR Llanfairfechan
Llanfaelog
Llanfair Llandygai Tyn-y-Groes
Aber raw
Pwllgwyngyll Tal-y-Bont A470

Y Felinheli Pentir Bethesda

A487 Llanrug Deiniolen Carneddaau p261 Trefriw

Caernarfon A5

Llanberis Llanrwst

Llanwnda Nant Peris Ogwen & Glyderau p273
Capel Curig

Pen-y-Groes Betws-y-Coed
Rhyd-Ddu Llanberis & Snowdon p309
Pontlyfni Dolwyddelan A5

A470
Blaenau
Trefor Beddgelert Ffestiniog
Llithfaen Garndolbenmaen
Nefyn
A487 Capel Celyn
Pwllheli Tremadog

Criccieth Min ordd Gellilydan

Porthmadog

Trawsfynydd

Harlech A470
Llanfair
A494
Llanbedr
N
WE Dy ryn Ardudwy
Tal-y-Bont

Barmouth Dolgellau A470
Minllyn
S Fairbourne Min ordd
Llangelynin Cadair Idris p333 Cemmaes
WALES OVERVIEW MAP A470
A487
0km 5km 10km 15km 20km

Machynlleth

282 Cnei on Arête | CWM CNEIFION Wales Map Page 259

Descent: Descend the Gribin Ridge (page 281). Mountain Day: A pleasant continuation is to
At the foot of the ridge, either turn left to Llyn Idwal continue up the upper part of the Gribin Ridge to the
to rejoin the approach, or turn right and descend plateau (page 281) and descend via Bristly Ridge
the Llyn Bochlwyd path back to Ogwen Cottage. (page 277) and the North Ridge of Tryfan (page 275).
Alternatively, descend via Senior's Ridge (page 291).
Photo: Richard Bailey-Wiles East Wall Gully or Senior's Gully (page 295) are good
approaches to this route.
Tactics: It is not easy to return to the base of the
route, so it is best to carry all bags with you.

Route tops out at the
Football Pitch at start of
upper part of Gribin Ridge

Easier climbing with lots of
exposure – plenty of belays

en route if required

Groove
Stance

Steep climbing
on large holds

80

1:00

Area Map Page 273 CWM CNEIFION | Cnei on Arête 283
Crag map
page 279

FoPoittcbhall Tower Gully
(page 285)

Cwm Bochlwyd Gribin Ridge 80 Cwm
(page 281) Cnei on

Sub CRnibei on

80. Cnei on Arête NW ALT 1:00
800m

CWM CNEIFION (combe of the ocks or clippings) Carneddau
Conditions: The arête rarely ices up, but under good snow is a ne climb. It is climbable in most
conditions, though care is required in high winds. Ogwen &
Parking: Car park at Ogwen Cottage (Pay & Display). Often busy. Glyderau
Approach: Take the main path from Ogwen Cottage up to Llyn Idwal. Head south (left) along the Llanberis &
lake shore until you reach a gate. A smaller path on the left leads up past Sub Cnei on Rib towards Snowdon
Cwm Cnei on. Enter the cwm and head up scree/snow slopes on the left to the foot of the arête. It is Cadair
also possible to approach via East Wall Gully (page 295).
Idris

Fun in summer, but a winter gem, Cnei on Arête is a very popular outing. The rst two
pitches are pure rock-climbing and o er the main di culties; many parties will pitch
these and then move together up the pinnacle-capped ridge above. The di culties can
also be avoided by climbing the slabs to the left. Keep right on the arête for maximum
fun and exposure.

80. Cnei on Arête III,3 3-5) 110m (2/3). Excellent climbing among
and over pinnacles and akes with lots of
140m. Start on the right-hand side of the toe fantastic exposure to the top of the arête, which
joins the Gribin Ridge at the Football Pitch. Many
of the arête. spike belay possibilities if required.
1) 18m (3/4). Climb steeply up the right-hand
side on juggy rocks to the crest.
2) 12m (3/4). Continue up a chimney/groove
on good holds to gain easier ground.

336 HISTORY

Chapter 4

HISTORICAL
NOTES

HISTORY 337

Spring sunshine on Rannoch Moor,
but winter still garlands the tops.
Photo: Lina Arthur

338 HISTORY

A team on the icefall at the top of
Skew Gill (I). Page 183.
Photo reproduced by kind permission of
©Abrahamphotographic