Mountain Rock

2 INTRODUCTION

1st Edition
by Steve Broadbent

Published by the Oxford Alpine Club
www.oxfordalpineclub.co.uk
ISBN for this volume 978-1-913167-02-8
A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library
©2020 Oxford Alpine Club
All uncredited images and design by Steve Broadbent ©2020

Cartography by GeoGraphics
Contains OS data © Crown Copyright (2019)
Some maps based on source data from openstreetmap.org
Other than brief quotations for use in reviews, or personal use on a climb, no part of this publication may be reproduced in any form without written permission
from the publisher. Nor should any text, images, or maps be used for commercial products without permission and acknowledgement of the publisher. The
author and publisher accept no responsibility for any injury or loss caused as a result of using this guidebook. Images and text contained within this book do not
necessarily represent the views or opinions of the Oxford Alpine Club.

INTRODUCTION 3

4 INTRODUCTION | Foreword

The Wasdale Crack (Hard Severe) on Napes Needle,
page161.FirstclimbedbyWalterParryHaskettSmithin
June 1886, this iconic route was a landmark in British
climbing and its first ascent marked the beginning of
the Golden Age of the sport in Lakeland.
Photo: Steve Broadbent

Foreword | INTRODUCTION 5

FOREWORD Intro
How to Use
The mountainous regions of Great Britain are
home to a rich variety of traditional climbing Grades
and give rise to an almost unique genre of Conditions
adventure – the British 'mountain route'. Equipment
For many people, such outings provide a Tick List
lifetime of memories, forged during the
formative years of a climbing career; memories Graded
of miserable wet days when someone List
suggested 'something long and easy that can
be climbed in the rain'; memories of glorious History
summer days, your first mountain VS, or late Index
evenings on spectacular and remote crags,
watching shadows spill into the valley as the
sun sets on another adventure. Along the
way, there is the discovery of new places, new
people, and new experiences.
Almost every trad climber in the UK will be
familiar with many of the routes in this book
– some will be keen to recount tales of daring,
of epics, and benightments – for these are
the routes that have launched and defined
countless love affairs with rock climbing over
the years. Some of them have also been pivotal
in the development of the sport as a whole, as
it was on these classic lines, specifically around
Wasdale Head and the Ogwen Valley, that the
sport of rock climbing was born and developed
during the late 19th century.
At the time of their first ascent, many of the
climbs in this book were cutting edge; some
defined new grades and new levels of danger
and difficulty, some saw new techniques
employed for the first time. All of them arose
from a spirit of adventure and passion for
mountains that is as familiar to climbers today
as it was to the Victorian pioneers.
For those who share that passion, enjoying
climbing in the wider context of mountains, of
nature, and self-discovery, the Mountain Rock
routes are an irresistible lure. Any one of these
climbs will give a grand day out in its own right;
completing all of them will be an unforgettable
undertaking, encompassing some of the most
enjoyable, as well as historically important
multi-pitch rock routes in the UK.

6 INTRODUCTION | Contents

Jamie and Clare Wakeham on Abbey Buttress (Mild Severe)
on the Napes Crags of Great Gable. This was the last new
route to be opened by the legendary climber Fred Botterill,
six years after his ascent of Botterill's Slab. Page 157.
Photo: Steve Broadbent

Contents | INTRODUCTION 7

CONTENTS Intro

Introduction 8
How to Use this Guide
Grades 11 How to Use
Conditions
Equipment 15
Mountain Rock Tick List
Graded List 17 Grades

Chapter 1 – Scotland 19
SCOTLAND OVERVIEW MAP 21 Conditions
Torridon and Applecross
Isle of Skye 26 Equipment
Cairngorms 32
Lochnagar
Central Highlands 35 Tick List
Ben Nevis and Fort William
Glen Coe 37 Graded
Arrochar List
Isle of Arran 43

Chapter 2 – The Lake District 63
CUMBRIA OVERVIEW MAP
Borrowdale 69
Buttermere
Ennerdale 73
Wasdale
Eskdale 77
Langdale
Coniston 89

Chapter 3 – North Wales 105
NORTH WALES OVERVIEW MAP
Ogwen and Carneddau 111
Llanberis and Snowdon
Cwm Silyn 114
Cadair Idris 117
119
Chapter 4 – Historical Notes 131
139
Route Index 149
179
185
213

226
229
231
275
299 History
303
306 Index

329

8 INTRODUCTION

INTRODUCTION

This guidebook describes one hundred multi-
pitch rock climbs in the three main mountain
regions of Britain: Scotland, the Lake District, and
North Wales. This selection of routes provides
some of the very best days out for climbers
operating in the lower grades, incorporating a
wide variety of crags, areas, styles, and rock types
whilst providing a brief insight into the historical
development of the sport.
The choice of routes is, of course, a matter of
personal opinion and there are obviously dozens
of good climbs that have not been included. The
selection is not intended to point people towards
obscure climbs that they won't have heard of –
instead the aim is to provide a handy, single-
volume guide to the most famous classic routes
of Britain, describing each one in sufficient detail
for those visiting for the first time.
When choosing routes to include, a variety of
factors have been considered. Firstly, these are
all excellent climbs which, at the time of writing,
are in generally good, clean condition. Secondly,
they are all achievable – routes tucked away in
remote Scottish glens with multi-day approaches
may well give world-class climbing but are rarely
viable for the average climber working a five-day
week in the south of England. As a result, the list
has been weighted towards routes south of the
border. Thirdly, the selection has been limited
to lower grade routes – all of the routes are
generally between the grades of Moderate and
Hard Severe, with a small selection of Very Severe
climbs included at the top end. These have been
chosen either because they are technically mild
(4c and below), or because of their national or
historical significance (routes such as Eagle's Nest
Ridge or Botterill's Slab, for example).
The result is an achievable 'tick list' of one
hundred magnificent routes, from simple valley-
based introductions for beginners (such as Rowan
Route or Little Chamonix), to some of Britain's
longest and most famous mountaineering rock
climbs. These routes are not only a rite of passage
for British climbers, but also offer a fascinating
insight into the rich history of the sport.

INTRODUCTION 9

Dickie Evans enjoying the optional crux chimney of Bracket and Intro
Slab (Severe) on Gimmer Crag, belayed by Delle Evans. On the first How to Use
ascent, H.B.Lyon spent over an hour trying to overcome this key
section. Today, few people emerge looking this happy. Page 207.
Photo: Steve Broadbent

Grades

Conditions

Equipment

Tick List
Graded

List

History
Index

10 INTRODUCTION

Crispin Cooper on the big final pitch
of Gimmer Crack (Very Severe) on
the northwest face of Gimmer Crag,
page 195.
Photo: Steve Broadbent

How to Use | INTRODUCTION 11

HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE Intro

The book is divided into colour-coded geographical area chapters which can be
quickly located using the thumb-tabs at the side of each page.

Torridon & Applecross Borrowdale How to Use
Isle of Skye Buttermere Grades
Cairngorms Ennerdale
Lochnagar Conditions
Wasdale Equipment
Central Highlands Eskdale Tick List
Fort William & Ben Nevis Langdale
Coniston Graded
Glen Coe List
Arrochar
Isle of Arran
SCOTLAND Ogwen & Carneddau
LAKE DISTRICT Llanberis & Snowdon
NORTH WALES
Cwm Silyn
Cader Idris

 Area Overviews

Each area chapter starts with an overview map (showing the location of all of
the featured crags) as well as some background information about the area. This
includes interesting historical or geological background notes and the odd useless
fact to entertain you whilst you're sitting in the pub waiting for the rain to stop.

 Maps and Guidebooks

Although accurate topographical maps show the approach to each crag, it is always
worth carrying a compass and the appropriate sheet map on the hill. The relevant
maps are listed in the introduction to each area, along with the local definitive
guidebook for climbers wishing to explore the area more thoroughly.

 Logistics

Whether visiting these mountain regions with a club on a 'meet', or going on a
weekend trip with friends, the majority of climbers arrive by private vehicle and
sleep on a campsite. This book is, therefore, written with that approach in mind.

The routes have all been selected because they are in relatively accessible and
well-serviced valleys, making them achievable on a weekend climbing trip. In order
to make planning a trip to an unfamiliar area as easy as possible, a good campsite
and pub is recommended for each valley base. In almost all cases, the suggested
campsites are ones to which it is acceptable to turn up without a reservation.

 The Pubs

No Mountain Rock experience is complete without enjoying a drink in one of the
UK's many historic climbers' bars. For those who love tick lists, here are all of the
pubs mentioned in this book – the ultimate climbing pub crawl!

 The Kinlochewe Hotel Torridon  The Riverside Bar Rosthwaite History
 The Torridon Inn Torridon  The Fish Inn Buttermere Index
 The Sligachan Hotel Skye  The Wasdale Head Hotel Wasdale
 The Pine Marten Bar Aviemore  The Woolpack Inn Eskdale
 The Fife Arms Braemar  The Old Dungeon Ghyll Langdale
 The Braemar Lodge Hotel Braemar  The Sticklebarn Langdale
 The Stronlossit Inn Roybridge  The New Dungeon Ghyll Langdale
 Ben Nevis Bunkhouse Fort William  Wainwright's Inn Langdale
 The Kingshouse Hotel Glen Coe  The Sun Inn Coniston
 The Clachaig Inn Glen Coe  Tyn-y-Coed Hotel Capel Curig
 Ben Arthur's Bothy Arrochar  The Heights Llanberis
 The Douglas Hotel Brodick  The Vaynol Arms Nant Peris
 Pen-y-Gwryd Hotel Pen-y-Pass

 The Cwellyn Arms Rhyd-Ddu

12 INTRODUCTION | How to Use

Katja Broadbent on New West Climb (V.Diff) on
the west face of Pillar Rock, Page 147. This route, first
ascended by the Abraham brothers in 1901, was said
to be their favourite climb.
Pillar Rock is the only summit in Lakeland that cannot
be reached without some technical climbing, and not
surprisingly it was one of the first crags to become
popular with the new breed of climbers in the 19th
century. George Seatree began climbing here in
1870 and took it upon himself to record statistics of
everyone climbing the rock – by 1875 no fewer than
50 ascents had been logged via a variety of routes.
Photo: Steve Broadbent

How to Use | INTRODUCTION 13

 Topos Intro
Every route is illustrated on a photo topo, which shows the line of the climb, belay How to Use
stances and variations, annotated with descriptions of key passages. The topos also
provide descent information, as well as strategy tips such as where to leave your Grades
rucksack or spare gear, and which routes can easily be linked together.
Route lines are colour-coded by grade, as follows:

12 3 Conditions
Equipment
VeMrDyoifdDfieicfrufailctteult HMaiSlrddevSSeeervveeerree HMaiVlrddeVrVyeerSryyevSSeeervveeerree Tick List

 Approach Maps Graded
For each route (or for the crag in the case of crags on which there are multiple List
routes) a detailed map shows the best way to approach on foot from the parking.
These approach maps make use of various scales in order to maximise coverage
and clarity, but in each case they are overlaid with 1km grid squares.

 QR Codes
To quickly navigate to the parking spot indicated on the approach map, simply scan
the blue QR code with your smart phone, or enter the 16-digit lat/long in Google
Maps exactly as shown.

P 57.289585, -6.174567 Scan QR code with smartphone, or enter the
coordinates (with the comma as shown) in
Sligachan car park (free) Google Maps in order to navigate to the car park.

 Route Descriptions History
The route description pages have been designed across a double-page spread so Index
that they can be easily photographed if you don't want to carry the book up the
climb. Each route is annotated with descriptive symbols as follows:
30m Minimum rope length recommended for this route.

This route is a good choice on a bad weather day.
This route can be climbed in the rain, though it may be slightly harder.
This route should be saved for sunny weather.
A short route that can be completed in a half day.
A longer route, though fast teams could combine this with another climb.
A long, full-day outing.
0:10 Approximate approach time in minutes.

20 INTRODUCTION | Tick List

Climbers on the Three-Tiered Chimney pitch of South Ridge
(Severe) on Cìr Mhòr, page 113. The combination of Sou'wester
Slabs and the South Ridge finish provides one of the longest
climbs of this grade in Britain.
Photo: Steve Broadbent

Tick List | INTRODUCTION 21

THE MOUNTAIN ROCK TICK LIST

This book describes one hundred multi-pitch routes in the mountain regions of Intro
Great Britain, including some of the country's best and most historic climbs. Not How to Use
all of them are long mountaineering routes; instead the selection has been chosen
to provide a broad spectrum of styles, from shorter outings that will provide Grades
entertainment in poor weather or useful introductions for inexperienced teams, Conditions
through to the best easy mountain routes in the country. Most of these climbs Equipment
fall within the grades Moderate to Hard Severe, though a handful of historically Tick List
significant, classic routes at Very Severe have been included to round off a
tremendous apprenticeship in British mountaineering. Graded
List
Scotland
History
 1. East Buttress, Coire Mhic Fhearchair, Beinn Eighe Difficult page 39 Index

 2. Cioch Nose, Sgurr a'Chaorachain, Applecross Mild Severe page 41

 3. Pinnacle Ridge, Sgurr nan Gillean, Skye Difficult page 47

 4. Window Buttress Original, Sgurr Dearg, Skye Very Difficult page 49

 5. East Ridge, Inaccessible Pinnacle, Skye Moderate page 51

 6. Arrow Route, Sron na Ciche, Skye Very Difficult page 55

 7. Integrity, Sron na Ciche, Skye Very Severe page 55

 8. Cioch West, Sron na Ciche, Skye Severe page 57

 9. Wallwork's Route, Sron na Ciche, Skye Very Difficult page 59

 10. Commando Crack, Sgurr Alasdair, Skye Hard Severe page 61

 11. Savage Slit, Coire an Lochain, Cairngorms Hard Very Difficult page 65

 12. Auld Nick, Hell's Lum Crag, Cairngorms Hard Severe page 67

 13. Eagle Ridge, Lochnagar Severe page 71

 14. Ardverikie Wall, Binnein Shuas, Central Highland Hard Severe page 75

 15. Raeburn's Arête, Ben Nevis Severe page 81

 16. Northeast Buttress, Ben Nevis Very Difficult page 83

 17. Observatory Ridge, Ben Nevis Very Difficult page 85

 18. Tower Ridge, Ben Nevis Difficult page 87

 19. Curved Ridge, Buchaille Etive Mòr, Glen Coe Moderate page 93

 20. North Face Route, Buchaille Etive Mòr, Glen Coe Severe page 95

 21. January Jigsaw, Buchaille Etive Mòr, Glen Coe Severe page 97

 22. Agag's Groove, Buchaille Etive Mòr, Glen Coe Very Difficult page 99

 23. Long Crack, Aonach Dubh, Glen Coe Hard Severe page 101

 24. Archer Ridge, Aonach Dubh, Glen Coe Severe page 101

 25. Crypt Route, Bidean nam Bian, Glen Coe Hard Very Difficult page 103

 26. Recess Route, The Cobbler, Arrochar Hard Very Difficult page 107

 27. Punster's Crack, The Cobbler, Arrochar Severe page 109

 28. Sou'wester Slabs, Cìr Mhòr, Arran Severe page 113

22 INTRODUCTION | Tick List

Katja Broadbent about to step out of Green Chimney
onto the Crow's Nest belay on pitch 5 of 'B' Route (Severe)
on Gimmer Crag, page 205. This climb was one of several
revolutionary routes established on Gimmer in the early
1900s as climbers moved away from the security of gullies
and out onto the open faces.
Photo: Steve Broadbent

Tick List | INTRODUCTION 23

THE LAKE DISTRICT Very Difficult page 123 Intro
How to Use
 29. Little Chamonix, Shepherd's Crag, Borrowdale Mild Severe page 125
 30. Troutdale Pinnacle, Black Crag, Borrowdale Grades
 31. Gillercombe Buttress, Gillercombe, Borrowdale Severe page 127 Conditions
 32. Corvus, Raven Crag, Borrowdale Equipment
 33. Eagle Front, Eagle Crag, Buttermere Difficult page 129 Tick List
 34. Mitre Buttress Direct, Grey Crag, Buttermere
 35. Harrow Buttress, Grey Crag, Buttermere Very Severe page 133 Graded
 36. Slabs Ordinary, Grey Crag, Buttermere List
 37. Oxford & Cambridge Direct, Buttermere Severe page 135
 38. North Climb, Pillar Rock, Ennerdale History
 39. Rib & Slab, Pillar Rock, Ennerdale Difficult page 137 Index
 40. New West Climb, Pillar Rock, Ennerdale
 41. Arrowhead Ridge Direct, Great Gable Difficult page 137
 42. Abbey Buttress, Great Gable
 43. Eagle's Nest Ridge Direct, Great Gable Mild Severe page 137
 44. Wasdale Crack, Napes Needle, Great Gable
 45. Needle Ridge, Great Gable Hard Severe page 143
 46. Tophet Wall, Great Gable
 47. Botterill's Slab, Scafell Hard Severe page 145
 48. Moss Ghyll Grooves, Scafell
 49. Jones' Route Direct from Lord's Rake, Scafell Very Difficult page 147
 50. Juniper Buttress, Pikes Crag, Scafell Pike
 51. Grooved Arête, Pikes Crag, Scafell Pike Very Difficult page 155
 52. Bridge's Route & Medusa Wall, Esk Buttress
 53. Middlefell Buttress, Raven Crag, Langdale Mild Severe page 157
 54. Merlin Slab, Pike o'Stickle, Langdale
 55. Gimmer Crack, Gimmer Crag, Langdale Mild Very Severe page 159
 56. Northwest Arête, Gimmer Crag, Langdale
 57. 'F' Route, Gimmer Crag, Langdale Hard Severe page 161
 58. Ash Tree Slabs, Gimmer Crag, Langdale
 59. 'D' Route, Gimmer Crag, Langdale Difficult page 163
 60. 'A' Route, Gimmer Crag, Langdale
 61. 'C' Route, Gimmer Crag, Langdale Hard Severe page 165
 62. 'B' Route, Gimmer Crag, Langdale
 63. Bracket & Slab, Gimmer Crag, Langdale Very Severe page 169
 64. Gimmer Chimney, Gimmer Crag, Langdale
 65. Bowfell Buttress, Bowfell, Langdale Mild Very Severe page 171
 66. Arête, Chimney & Crack, Dow Crag, Coniston
 67. Eliminate 'A', Dow Crag, Coniston Hard Severe page 173
 68. Giant's Crawl, Dow Crag, Coniston
 69. Murray's Route, Dow Crag, Coniston Severe page 175
 70. 'C' Ordinary, Dow Crag, Coniston
Very Difficult page 177

Hard Severe page 183

Difficult page 189

Difficult page 191

Very Severe page 195

Very Severe page 197

Very Severe page 197

Very Difficult page 199

Severe page 199

Mild Severe page 201

Severe page 203

Severe page 205

Severe page 207

Very Difficult page 209

Hard Very Difficult page 211

Severe page 217

Very Severe page 219

Difficult page 221

Severe page 223

Difficult page 225

24 INTRODUCTION | Tick List

The author on the first pitch of Cneifion Arête (Difficult),
page 257, high above the Ogwen Valley. Above this, the
difficulty reduces considerably and climbers can enjoy
extensive easy terrain up one of the best mountain
scrambles in Wales.
Photo: Lina Arthur

Tick List | INTRODUCTION 25

NORTH WALES Very Difficult page 235 Intro
How to Use
 71. Amphitheatre Buttress, Craig yr Ysfa Mild Severe page 237
 72. Central Route, Red Slab, Carnedd y Filliast Grades
 73. Left Edge, Carnedd y Filliast Very Difficult page 239 Conditions
 74. Tennis Shoe, Idwal Slabs, Cwm Idwal Equipment
 75. Ordinary Route, Idwal Slabs, Cwm Idwal Hard Severe page 243 Tick List
 76. Charity, Idwal Slabs, Cwm Idwal
 77. Hope, Idwal Slabs, Cwm Idwal Difficult page 245 Graded
 78. Faith, Idwal Slabs, Cwm Idwal List
 79. Lazarus, Cwm Idwal Hard Very Difficult page 247
 80. The Arête / Groove Above, Cwm Idwal
 81. Sub Cneifion Rib, Cwm Idwal Very Difficult page 249
 82. Cneifion Arête, Cwm Cneifion
 83. Direct Route, Glyder Fach Very Difficult page 251
 84. Chasm Route, Glyder Fach
 85. Direct Route, Milestone Buttress, Tryfan Severe page 253
 86. Rowan Route, Milestone Buttress, Tryfan
 87. Gashed Crag, East Face, Tryfan Very Difficult page 253
 88. Pinnacle Rib, East Face, Tryfan
 89. Grooved Arête, East Face, Tryfan Very Difficult page 255
 90. The Wrinkle, Carreg Wastad, Llanberis Pass
 91. Crackstone Rib, Carreg Wastad, Llanberis Pass Difficult page 257
 92. Flying Buttress, Dinas Cromlech, Llanberis Pass
 93. The Cracks, Dinas Mot, Llanberis Pass Very Severe page 259
 94. Horned Crag, Lliwedd
 95. Avalanche, Red Wall & Longlands, Lliwedd Hard Very Difficult page 261
 96. Slanting Buttress, Lliwedd
 97. Main Wall, Cyrn Las Very Difficult page 263
 98. Gambit Climb, Clogwyn y Ddysgl
 99. Outside Edge, Craig yr Ogof, Cwm Silyn Difficult page 265
 100. Table Direct & Cyfrwy Arête, Cadair Idris
Hard Very Difficult page 269

Difficult page 271

Hard Very Difficult page 273

Very Difficult page 279

Mild Severe page 281

Difficult page 283

Very Difficult page 285

Hard Very Difficult page 289

Severe page 291

Difficult page 293

Hard Severe page 295

Hard Very Difficult page 297

Very Difficult page 301

Very Difficult page 305

History
Index

32 SCOTLAND Scotland Map Page 35

Christopher Brown on the crux pitch of North Face Route (Severe),
page 95, on Glen Coe's Buchaille Etive Mòr, with the wilderness of
Rannoch Moor beyond.
Photo: Andy Brown

Scotland Map Page 35 SCOTLAND 33

34 SCOTLAND Scotland Map Page 35
Looking down on the Cioch Slab from the upper
section of Integrity (VS) on Sron na Ciche, page 55.

Photo: Steve Broadbent

Scotland Map Page 35 SCOTLAND 35

LEWIS Scourie SCOTLAND OVERVIEW MAP

N

0km 10km 20km 30km 40km 50km 60km 70km

WE Ledmore Lairg

S Clashmore A82
Ullapool Invershin A9

Poolewe Kincardine Tain

SKYE Torridon & Applecross p37 A835 Dingwall Nairn Forres Elgin Buckie
Kinlochewe Achnasheen
Portree Inverness  Keith
Skye p43 Torridon Craigellachie
Sligachan Lochcarron

RUM Kyle of Localsh A9 Grantown A95
Dornie on spey

Kyleakin Carrbridge Tomintoul
Clonabaichin
Shiel Bridge Cairngorms p63

A87 Invermoriston Aviemore

Armadale Invergarry Kingussie A9

Mallaig Spean Bridge Central Highlands p73 Dalwhinnie Ballater
A830 Roybridge Braemar

Fort William Lochnagar p69

Corran Ben Nevis p77 A9 Spittal of
Pitlochry Glenshee
Glencoe A82 Blairgowrie
Glen Coe p89

MULL A85 Dundee

Tyndrum A85 A85 Perth A90 
Crianlarich Crieff St.Andrews

Arrochar A84 A9 Kirkaldy
Tarbert
Stirling
Arrochar p105
JURA Lochgilphead A83 M90
M74
EDINBURGH
A82
Greenock GLASGOW M80 FalkirkM9 

Bridgend 
M8
ISLAY

ARRAN Ardrossan A77
M77
Brodick Irvine A702A71

Arran p111 Kilmarnock



Ayr

36 TORRIDON & APPLECROSS Scotland Map Page 35

1:175,000

0km 2km 4km 6km 8km

TRIPLE
BUTTRESS
(page 39)

Lower ABLELI INGNI N Beinn
Diabaig Dearg
Inveralligin
BEINN EIGHE
Upper Loch Torridon
MRualltahcahinan GLEN TORRIDON
LIATHACH
Youth P
Hostel Torridon
Campsite A896

Torridon

Torridon Inn

Shieldaig

Loch Damh DBeaimnnh RSugaudrrh
TFhuoalrl
A896 MaodleCahrgean-
AnSRtuaacdh

BGhelainsn

a'ChaSogruarcrhain Tornapress Strathcarron
P

A896 The Wee Lochcarron
Campsite Hotel
SGURR
A'CHAORACHAIN Ardarroch Lochcarron

(page 41) Carron A890
Loch Kishorn Loch

Scotland Map Page 35 TORRIDON & APPLECROSS 37

Looking north from Beinn Eighe across
the spectacular Torridon landscape.
Photo: Steve Broadbent

TORRIDON & APPLECROSS Torridon &
Applecross
The spectacular scenery of Torridon and Applecross is among the most rugged and wild
in the UK, with steep, isolated peaks rising dramatically from deep glens set against Skye
magnificent views across the sea to Skye and the Western Isles. Cairngorm
Lochnagar
The rocks that make up this incredible landscape are some of the oldest in the country, laid down
upon an ancient bed of Lewisian gneiss that dates back about 2,700 million years – half the age of Central
the Earth itself. A 7km thick layer of sandstone was deposited above this gneiss in the Proterozoic Ben
Eon approximately 800 million years ago, and it is this ancient sedimentary rock that forms the Nevis
distinctive mountains and crags of the region. Several of the summits, including Beinn Eighe and its
famous Triple Buttress, are topped with quartzite formed during the Cambrian period about 300 to Glen Coe
500 million years ago – around the same time as the rocks of the Lake District and Snowdonia were Arrochar
created.
Arran
Guidebook: Northern Highlands South (SMC, 2007)

Map: OS Explorer Sheet 433 – Torridon, Beinn Eighe & Liathach; Sheet 428 – Kyle, Plockton & Applecross

Pubs: For excellent beer and pub food, call in at The Kinlochewe Hotel at the eastern end of Glen
Torridon. Alternatively, The Torridon Inn (part of The Torridon Hotel complex) on the shores of Loch
Torridon has a lively bar serving decent food and beer.

For climbers staying in Lochcarron, the best option is the Lochcarron Hotel – hardly the cosiest of
Scotland's pubs, but it is at least within walking distance of the Wee Campsite.

Camping: There is a free campsite by the youth hostel in Torridon village, which provides an
ideal base for climbing in the region. Alternatively, the excellent Wee Campsite in Lochcarron has the
advantage of being close to a pub and is very reasonably priced.

76 BEN NEVIS & FORT WILLIAM ScotlandMap Page35

Approaching Tower Gap from the Great Tower of
Tower Ridge (Difficult), page 87. Although it features
lots of technically easy terrain, this incredible ridge is
undoubtedly one of the finest mountain routes in the UK.
Photo: Steve Broadbent

ScotlandMap Page35 BEN NEVIS & FORT WILLIAM 77

Linnhe Lochside Leanachan Forest
Holidays
Corpach Nevis Range
Ski Centre

A830 Caol P North Face
car park

Allt a'Mhuilinn Allt Daim
Fort CàDrneaBregag AoMnoarch Allt Coire an Eoin
A861 William
Ben Nevis DCeàarrng
Linnhe Glen Nevis Bunkhouse
Caravan &
Loch Camping Park Càrn Mor Dearg ABoenaagch ChSoMginuonrrrich

Glen Nevis Glen Nevis BEN NEVIS
Youth Hostel (page 81)
NBeevnis
A82 ChSBogeinuanrgrich

1:150,000 Glen Nevis
0km 2km 4km 6km 8km

BEN NEVIS & FORT WILLIAM

The first settlement at Fort William was a wooden fort, constructed in 1654 as a base for Torridon &
English troops and later named in honour of King William of Orange. Today, the town Applecross
relies heavily on tourism, marketing itself as the 'outdoor capital of the UK'.
Skye
Towering above Fort William is the spectacular summit of Ben Nevis, the highest peak in the UK Cairngorm
and home to some of the most impressive, alpine-scale crags in the country. The summit is all Lochnagar
that remains of an ancient volcano which was involved in a huge and violent explosion in the
Carboniferous Period around 350 million years ago. This cataclysmic event, believed to have been Central
on a scale similar to the eruption of Krakatoa in 1883, has left the mountain with a complicated mix Ben
of surface lavas and intrusive granitic rocks that make it particularly well suited to climbing and Nevis
scrambling.
Glen Coe
Ben Nevis is not only the highest summit in Scotland, but also the most popular, with over 100,000 Arrochar
ascents each year. It was first climbed in 1777 by the botanist James Robertson in order to collect
botanical samples, though it was not until 1847 that the Ordnance Survey confirmed the mountain's Arran
status as the highest in Britain.

In 1883, a meteorological observatory was built on the summit to study high-altitude weather. It
was manned full-time for 21 years but closed in 1904 due to lack of funding, by which time it had
produced the most comprehensive set of mountain weather data ever gathered in Britain. The old
pony path, built to carry supplies up to the observatory, still provides the main walkers' route from
Fort William, and the easiest descent from the summit.

Lying right on the west coast, Ben Nevis catches the brunt of the Atlantic storms and is notorious for

78 BEN NEVIS & FORT WILLIAM ScotlandMap Page35

Descending to the CIC Hut after a long day
on the Ben, taking in Raeburn's Arête, NE
Buttress, Observatory Ridge and Tower Ridge.
Photo: Steve Broadbent

ScotlandMap Page35 BEN NEVIS & FORT WILLIAM 79

1100 1100Path fromMCeàardnhDoenaarcgh
1000 1000NcoartrhpaFrakce
900 900 56⁰48.5'N
800 Castle Ridge 800
700
700 Ledge Route
descent Allt a'Mhuilinn

Carn Dearg CIC Hut Càrn Mòr
Crag Emergency Dearg
Radio
No.5 Gully 1220
Douglas
Càrn Dearg Boulder 72

Red Co i r 1200 1221 Lochan Coire Coire Leis
rn na Ciste descent route
B u e na h-Urchaire
56⁰48.0'N
Cairn No.4 Gully C oi r e GTaorwdeyrloTGouollwyGNeruo.ll2RiyGduglleyna Raeburn's
C i s NE BOutbtsreesrsvatory Ridgee
t

1200

Pony Path to Halfway Cairns ! Ben Nevis Coire Leis Dearg Arête
5⁰02.0'W1L5ochWaCnoilaliiranedmFGoh5r⁰ta0F1iiv.m5e'WFhinngeear Gnully Carn Mor
! 282⁰ Grid 1345 71

16 1300 231⁰ Grid 17
5⁰00.5'W for 150m
5⁰01.0'W Cairn

5⁰00.0'W 4⁰59.5'W

its poor weather and difficult conditions. Navigation on the summit plateau requires considerable Torridon &
care in bad weather, and there have been many serious accidents here, with Gardyloo Gully and Five Applecross
Finger Gully proving particular hotspots.
Skye
Guidebook: Ben Nevis Rock and Ice (SMC, 2002) Cairngorm
Lochnagar
Map: OS Explorer Sheet 392 – Ben Nevis & Fort William
Central
Pubs: There are many good pubs in Fort William, catering for a wide variety of tastes. Although Ben
there are no traditional climbers' bars, the pub at the Ben Nevis Bunkhouse is worth a visit. Nevis

Camping: Camping opportunities around Fort William are notoriously limited. The Glen Nevis Glen Coe
Caravan and Camping Park is the closest campsite, but although it does cater for backpacking tents it Arrochar
is rather expensive for the average climber's budget. Linnhe Lochside, just west of Corpach, is another
viable option for those looking for sites with reasonable facilities. Wild camping spots are difficult Arran
to come by, though people have been known to overnight in the North Face car park – if doing so,
please be discreet and leave no trace.

By far the best option for climbing on Ben Nevis is to make use of the Charles Inglis Clark Memorial
Hut (CIC) at the head of Allt a'Mhuilinn, right beneath the crags of the north face. This famous
climbing hut is owned and operated by the SMC, but non-members are able to book in via the
website at https://www.smc.org.uk/huts/cic.

Other good bunkhouse options include the Ben Nevis Bunkhouse at the foot of the tourist path, and
the Corran Bunkhouse in Onich, about 15 minutes south of Fort William.

80 Raeburn's Arête | BEN NEVIS ScotlandMap Page35

 Descent: From the First Platform First Platform NE Buttress
(page 83)
it is possible to walk off leftwards into
Coire Leis. Alternatively, continue up NE P6
Buttress and descend from the summit
as for that route (page 83). P5 Easy finish to First
Strategy: This is the quickest and Platform
most accessible route from the CIC
Hut. Climbed alone it is a good option Belay on left-hand
for a half day, or a walk-in / walk-out side of buttress
day from the hut. Alternatively, Follow rib on
combine with NE Buttress for a superb
mountaineering day out. left
P4

Crux groove

Nice rib
P3

Small grass
ledge

Tricky moves
past cracks

P2 Step left from belay and
Prominent black follow slabby arête

overhang Trend left to stance on
arête (bold)
0:30 Groove
2:20
P1

15 Easy climbing to
right-hand side of
black overhang

Area Map Page 77 BEN NEVIS | Raeburn's Arête 81

Ben Nevis Crag map

Col at bottom of Tower Ridge Càrn Dearg page 79
CMD Arête Ledge Route
Observatory Ridge descent route
Coire Leis NE Buttress
descent route

16

17 18 CIC Hut
15 (hidden)

15. Raeburn's Arête 50m 2:20

Ben Nevis

First Ascent: H.Raeburn, J.Inglis Clark & W.Inglis Clark, June 1902.
Conditions: Superb, rough rock that dries very quickly after rain.
Parking: North Face car park.
Approach: Via the CIC Hut (approximately 1:50 to the hut, 0:30 from the hut to the route).

Harold Raeburn began climbing through an early interest in ornithology which saw him Torridon &
climbing and descending many steep faces in search of nests and eggs. At the age of 31 he Applecross
made his first climb on Ben Nevis – The Direct Route on the Douglas Boulder – and over the
next 28 years he was responsible for half of all the new routes recorded on the mountain. Skye
Of these, his eponymous arête stands out as one of the finest. Cairngorm
Lochnagar
By national standards, Raeburn's Arete should be considered a long route, but in the grand
surroundings of Ben Nevis it is usually treated as little more than an hors d'oeuvre for the Central
NE Buttress above, which makes an obvious continuation. The climbing is clean, open, and Ben
characteristically bold, featuring some long and lonely pitches on which good runners are Nevis
scarce. Thankfully the climbing is mostly straightforward, allowing quick progress to the
First Platform. Here, an escape left into Coire Leis is an option for those short of time, but Glen Coe
keen mountaineers will continue up to the summit via NE Buttress. Arrochar

15. Raeburn's Arête Severe 3) 45m. Step up left towards the arête and Arran
continue up the excellent slabby buttress on
230m. The front of the clean buttress up to immaculate rock to a small grassy ledge.
4) 40m. Move up right and climb a rib, then a
the First Platform of NE Buttress gives a very steep groove past overhangs (crux) to a stance.
fine climb and the best start to that route. The 5) 40m. Step left and continue up the rib,
climbing is technically mild, but features some turning steep ground on the left to a belay on the
very long run-outs with little protection. Start left-hand side of the ridge.
at the lowest rocks, beneath a prominent black 6) 50m. Move back right for a fine finale up the
overhang. ridge.
1) 22m. Easy climbing up to a grassy ledge at
the right-hand side of the black overhang.
2) 33m. Follow the easiest line above, generally
trending up leftwards to a stance close to the
arête.

114 THE LAKE DISTRICT Cumbria Map Page117

Steve Broadbent & Clare Wakeham on the crux wall of Troutdale Pinnacle
(Mild Severe), page 125, with Derwent Water in the background.
Photo: Jamie Wakeham

Cumbria Map Page117 THE LAKE DISTRICT 115

116 THE LAKE DISTRICT Cumbria Map Page117
Pulling onto the exposed summit of the arrowhead,
Arrowhead Ridge Direct (Very Difficult), page 155. This
splendid climb is one of the most traditional of Great
Gable's classic ridges.

Photo: Aileen Robertson

Cumbria Map Page117 THE LAKE DISTRICT 117

Westnewton A596 Wigton CUMBRIA OVERVIEW MAP
Allonby Sebergham
A595 0kCmaldbeck 5km 10km 15km 20km
Aspatria
M6
M6Torpenhow

Maryport A591Bothel
A66
Cockermouth Bassenthwaite 41
Workington A595
Mungrisdale PENRITH

Penruddock A66 40 A66
Pooley Bridge
Pardshaw High Lorton Keswick
Watermillock
A595 Mockerkin Threlkeld
Borrowdale p119
Whitehaven Kirkland

Frizington Buttermere Grange Glenridding
Rosthwaite Patterdale
Cleator Moor Buttermere p131
Ennerdale 39
Bridge

Ennerdale p139

Egremont Wasdale p149 Grasmere
Wasdale Head Langdale p185 Chapel Stile Ambleside
Calder Bridge
Gosforth Eskdale p179

Santon Bridge Cockley Beck Skelwith
Bridge
Windermere
Eskdale Green
Coniston A591
Coniston p213
Ravenglass Hawkshead Nether
Torver Staveley
Bowness
Ulpha

KENDAL

Broughton-in- Levens
Furness
Newby A65
A595 Bridge A590
Milnthorpe 36
Millom

N Ulverston Grange-over- Arnside M6
Sands

WE Barrow-in- A M B E BAY 35A
S Furness Morecambe Carnforth
C
O R E 34

M Lancaster

160 Napes Needle | GREAT GABLE Cumbria Map Page117

Strategy: Consider leaving bags at an Crag map
appropriate point along the Climbers' page 152
Traverse, depending on what you're
doing next... if returning to the valley P2 Traverse
then packs can be left close to Little Hell P1 vlaelflteyonfatcoetfhoer
Gate or Great Hell Gate for the descent. poonlsismhaeldl hfionlidssh

Awkward The
mantelshelf Shoulder
above Shoulder
The
Needle Ridge Pinnacle
(page 163)

The The
WCarsadcakle Arête

 Descent: The descent from The B
44
Needle is probably the most challenging
part of the day, and although it's not Scramble up to
technically too difficult, it does require platform
some care and confidence at the grade.
Several options exist, but the normal 1:20
way is for the leader to lower the second
to The Shoulder or Pinnacle, and then
reverse the top pitch, either down-
leading, or by running a rope over the
summit block.
There is often abseil tat in-situ at The
Shoulder or The Pinnacle from which to
abseil. If not, then the last person can
down-lead The Arête on gear placed by
the second.

Area Map Page 149 GREAT GABLE | Napes Needle 161

44. Napes Needle 30m 1:20

THE NAPES, GREAT GABLE
First Ascent: W.P.Haskett Smith, June 1886 (via the Wasdale Crack); W.H.Fowler, 1894 (The Arête).
Conditions: Southwest-facing at 650m. The rock is predictably polished, and care is required on the
upper pitch in poor conditions.
Parking: Wasdale Green (free).
Approach: Via the Gavel Neese or Moses' Trod – see page 152.

Walter Parry Haskett Smith had first spotted this iconic pinnacle whilst exploring Piers
Ghyll on Lingmell in 1882, when he happened to look across towards the Napes crags at a
moment when the mists parted. There, amongst the seemingly shattered rocks he noticed
'a slender pinnacle of rock, standing out against the background of cloud without a sign
of any other rock near it and appearing to shoot up for 200 or 300 feet'.

Although he was at the forefront of climbing standards of the day, it was several years
before he considered the ascent justifiable – years during which he developed his skills
on many easier first ascents on the crags of Pillar, Scafell and Gable.

In June 1886, during a holiday at Wasdale Head, Haskett Smith took to the fells one Borrowdale
afternoon in order to walk off a headache. After strolling up to the Ennerdale face of Great Buttermere
Gable, he gained the summit via an unclimbed gully, then descended Needle Ridge which
he had climbed with John Robinson two years previously. From the gap at the foot of the
ridge he began to examine the needle itself. 'My first care,' he wrote, 'was to get two or three
stones and test the flatness of the summit by seeing whether anything thrown up could be
induced to lodge. If it did, that would be an indication of a moderately flat top, and would
hold out hopes of the edge being found not too much rounded to afford good grip for the
fingers.' Out of three missiles, one consented to stay – the ascent was on.
'The main trouble,' he later recalled, 'lay in the cracks and crevices which were tightly packed
with small stones and thatched with slippery grass. The Lingmell face of the top block was
covered with a brown and brittle lichen which concealed whatever holds there might be.'

The climb was not the longest, nor perhaps the most difficult that had yet been achieved, Ennerdale
but its importance was undeniable. The Needle's photogenic situation and shape seemed Wasdale
unique, impressive, and impregnable, and just as the Matterhorn had become the defining Eskdale
challenge of the Golden Age of mountaineering in the Alps, Napes Needle would come to
represent the sport in Lakeland. Photographs in books, magazines and newspapers did
more to attract adventurers to British crags than any other single factor, and so in a very
real way it could be considered to be the birth of the sport of rock climbing as we know it.

44. The Wasdale Crack Hard Severe B. The Arête Hard Severe Langdale
17m. The original way up the iconic monolith is 20m. A less classic but equally splendid way of Coniston
worthwhile for its historical significance. The grade gaining The Shoulder. It is sometimes down-led
reflects the fact that the small holds on the upper following an ascent via The Wasdale Crack.
section have now become very polished indeed. 1) 16m (-) Traverse rightwards from the ledge to
1) 13m (-) Climb the wide crack (plenty of small pull around onto the excellent arête. Go up this to
runners in secondary cracks) then go up an easy The Pinnacle, and continue up to The Shoulder to
slab to The Shoulder. join the original route.
2) 4m (4a) Make a tricky mantelshelf onto a 2) 4m (4a) As for The Wasdale Crack.
small ledge above, then traverse left onto the
face overlooking Wasdale and climb up on small
holds to the summit.

162 Needle Ridge | GREAT GABLE Cumbria Map Page117

P5 P4  Descent: There are two options,
Easy ridge
depending on where you're going next...
Mboigveflarokuencdrainctko Corner / groove 1) To descend Great Hell Gate (to the
onbleuftttrseisdse of right), continue up the ridge a short
P3 way until a well-worn scramble off the
right-hand side descends onto the scree
of Great Hell Gate. Continue down this,
passing beneath Tophet Wall, to reach
the Climbers' Traverse path.
2) To descend Little Hell Gate (to the
left), continue all the way up the ridge to
the grassy col at the Napes Summit. Drop
down the far (left-hand) side of the col
into Little Hell Gate.

Step left out of P2
chimney onto
exposed arête

Walk along to
belay at base of

chimney

Crack in wall Chimney groove
up to blocks on

arête

Strategy: Needle Ridge is traditionally P1 Napes Needle
combined with an ascent of Napes (page 161)
Needle (page 161). After that, it's worth Go up wall to
carrying bags up the route so that you niche on right 45
can descend via one of the Hell Gate Easy climbing
gullies and perhaps take in another up to the notch
climb – Go down Great Hell Gate for Scramble up to
Tophet Wall, or Little Hell Gate for any of platform below
the routes to the left.
the Needle

1:20

Area Map Page 149 GREAT GABLE | Needle Ridge 163

Grassy col at Arrowhead Ridge Scramble off back Crag map
Napes summit (page 155) side into Great page 152

Little Hell Hell Gate Tophet
Gate descent NNeaepdelse Wall
Great Hell
Eagle's Nest Ridge Gate
(page 159)
Needle
Gully

45. Needle Ridge 30m 1:20

THE NAPES, GREAT GABLE

First Ascent: W.P.Haskett Smith & J.W.Robinson, September 1884.
Conditions: Southwest-facing at 650m. The rock generally dries quickly after rain and, although it is

very polished, the route is clean and still feasible in inclement weather.
Parking: Wasdale Green (free).
Approach: Via the Gavel Neese or Moses' Trod – see page 152.

Haskett Smith had been introduced to scrambling by veteran fell walker F.H.Bowring during
an undergraduate reading week in Wasdale in 1881. Over the next few years he completed
several easy gully routes throughout the Lake District, exploring new crags and gaining
valuable experience of the vertical. In 1884, two years before his famous ascent of Napes
Needle, he climbed Needle Ridge with a local man, John Wilson Robinson of Lorton. The Borrowdale

use of ropes had not yet been considered on British crags, though it was, in fact, Robinson
himself who introduced alpine-style ropes to the Wasdale climbing scene the following year. Buttermere

The ridge played another key role in the sport some 12 years later, when the Abraham Ennerdale
brothers, accompanied by the already famous Welsh cragsman Owen Glynne Jones, Wasdale
bumped into Robinson at Sty Head. Robinson was by this time a well-respected climber, Eskdale
and after discouraging Jones from attempting the unclimbed Kern Knotts crack, pointed Langdale
him instead at the Napes ridges. Jones, keen to test the mettle of his new companions,
proceeded to lead them up Needle Ridge, Arrowhead Ridge, and Eagle's Nest Direct – the
hardest route ever climbed at the time – in under two hours... a feat that few teams today
will match, and one that cemented one of the strongest partnerships in those pivotal
early years of the sport.

45. Needle Ridge Difficult 2) 25m. Go up the crack in the wall to a ledge. Coniston
Continue easily along the ridge crest to belay
120m. The easiest of the Napes ridges is beneath a chimney on the right.
3) 20m. Climb the chimney for about 4m, then
a justifiably popular climb that provides a step left onto the exposed arête. Go up this and
worthwhile mountaineering adventure in most continue to a ledge beneath a corner.
conditions. Start from the platform at the base of 4) 30m. Follow the corner to the arête. Step around
the Needle's northwest face. onto the left-hand side and climb an awkward wide
1) 15m. Follow the very polished groove up to flake on the side wall up to the crest.
the col behind The Needle. Climb the wall to a 5) 30m. Easy climbing along the ridge.
niche on the right, then go leftwards up a short
chimney/groove to a block on the arête.

226 NORTH WALES Wales Map Page 229

Lina Arthur on the first pitch of Direct Route (V.Diff) on
Tryfan's Milestone Buttress – a good test of technique
for the well-rounded V.Diff leader. Page 263.
Photo: Steve Broadbent

Wales Map Page 229 NORTH WALES 227

228 NORTH WALES Wales Map Page 229

In the infamous Vertical Vice pitch of Chasm
Route (V.Diff) on Glyder Fach, page 261.
Confined chimneys were favoured by early
pioneers as they offered at least some
degree of security in the days before the
development of modern protection.
Photo: Steve Broadbent

Wales Map Page 229 NORTH WALES 229

Llanerchymedd Llandudno

Benllech

Valley Colwyn Bay

Llanfelog Conwy
Aberffraw
Llangefni Beaumaris A55 Penmaenmawr
A55
BANGOR Llanfairfechan

Llanfair Llandygai Tyn-y-Gros A470
Pwllgwyngyll Tal-y-Bont

Felinheli Pentir Bethesda

A487 Deiniolen Ogwen & Carneddau p231
A5
Llanrug Trefriw
Llanrwst
Caernarfon

Llanberis

Llanwnda Nant Peris Capel Curig
Betwys-y-Coed
Rhyd-Ddu
Pen-y-Groes

Pontlyfni Llanberis & Snowdon p275 Dolwyddelan A5

Cwm Silyn p299 A470

Beddgelert Blaenau
Ffestiniog
Trevor Garndolbenmaen
Llithfaen Gellidydan
Nefyn A487 Tremadog Trawsfynydd Capel Celyn
Criccieth Minfford
Pwllheli
Porthmadog

Harlech A470
Llanfair

Llanbedr

N Dyffryn Ardudwy A494
Tal-y-Bont

WE Barmouth Dolgellau A470
S Minllyn
Minfford
WALES OVERVIEW MAP Fairbourne Cadair Idris p303 Cemmaes Road
Llangelynin A470
0km 5km 10km 15km 20km A487

250 Faith | IDWAL SLABS Wales Map Page 229

 Descent: Scramble up the left-hand side of

the crag, following polish and scratched arrows.
There is then a short, steep scramble down the
left-hand (east) wall to gain the descent path.
Follow this with care – don't stay too close to the
crag (see also page 241).
P5
Hidden corner
groove

Quartz spike
Stance (not an obvious belay)

P4
Magnificent upper slab can be
climbed laenfytw-hhaenrde.sBideest on the

Take easy groove
or clean slab on
P3 the left

P2 Go up left side of
slab, near rib

P1

Traverse left along
thin quartz rails

Warning: The theft of bags has been reported Hope 78
from the path at the base of the Idwal Slabs. Be (page 249)
sure not to leave any valuables here.
Strategy: The route starts right from the Idwal Start up leftwards
path. Bags can be left at the base, but note the acrosssrliagbht-hand
warning above – it may be better to carry bags a
short way up the descent route and leave them 0:30
out of sight, or take them up the route with you.

Area Map Page 231 IDWAL SLABS | Faith 251
Scramble down
(or abseil) Continuation Wall
No! Lazarus

(page 253)

No!

Crag map 78
page 241

78. Faith 40m 0:30

IDWAL SLABS, CWM IDWAL Ogwen &
First Ascent: D.Pye, I.Richards & T.Picton, 1916. Carneddau
Conditions: Holds more drainage than other routes hereabouts, but can still be climbed when damp. Llanberis &
Parking: Ogwen Cottage. Snowdon
Approach: Via the good paved path from Ogwen Cottage – see page 241.
Cwm
For lovers of low-grade slabs, there can be few finer routes than Faith. The line is logical, Silyn
if not elegant, linking three superb pieces of climbing in increasingly dramatic situations Cadair
above Cwm Idwal. Unlike its neighbours, there's nothing here that demands too much in Idris
the way of actual slab technique – small flakes and quartz edges always seem to turn up
just when you need them, leading you ever upwards with growing delight. The horizontal
quartz rails on pitch 2 provide pause for thought before a rather scrappy pitch gains the
magnificent upper slab, and the highlight of the climb. Here, one should take time to relish
the exposure; few pitches probe such exquisite terrain at this grade.
Above the final slab the route joins with Hope... although some leaders join instead with
Charity. Thankfully, some of the teams on Charity have accidentally strayed onto Ordinary
Route, but unfortunately the odd novice from Ordinary Route has found themselves on Faith
(it's best not to wonder how). The result can be something of a bottleneck, as leaders criss-
cross the face looking for nonexistent belay ledges, before one final pitch gains the terrace.

78. Faith V.Diff 3) 15m. Go up the easy groove on the right, or
the clean slab just to the left (better), to a stance
137m. The right-hand route gives consistently beneath the upper slab.
4) 35m. The brilliant upper slab can be climbed
pleasant slab climbing with some fine positions. anywhere, but is best on its left-hand side. This
It can be slow to dry, but is the best of the leads to broken ground at the top of the groove
famous trio on wet days. Start on the right-hand of Hope, where belays are not obvious – a small
slab, just right of the undercut base. stance below steep quartz provides the best
1) 27m. Climb leftwards along the break until it option.
is possible to go straight up the immaculate slab. 5) 30m. As for Hope – Climb the steep quartz,
2) 30m. Climb up leftwards to gain two moving up rightwards into a hidden final corner
horizontal quartz rails. Traverse leftwards along / groove.
these, then go up the fine slab just right of the
arête.

306 HISTORY

HISTORY 307

The photogenic top pitch of Little Chamonix
(V.Diff) on Shepherd's Crag, with Derwent
Water in the background. Page 123.
Photo: Steve Broadbent

308 HISTORY

First climbed by Godfrey Solly in 1892, Eagle's Nest Ridge Direct (MVS)
was by far the hardest route of its day. Solly was so concerned that
inexperienced teams would attempt to repeat the climb that he considered
not reporting it at all. When he did so, he included a strong warning that
the line should be inspected on top-rope prior to a lead. Page 159.
Photo: Steve Broadbent

HISTORY 309

HISTORICAL NOTES

Balanced on small footholds, far beyond the security of the last runner, one feels Intro
a heightened sense of awareness and exposure. Below, the valley drops away How to Use
dramatically against a backdrop of the country's highest peaks; along with it, so do
the routine and monotony of daily life. The rock is blank, affording only the smallest Grades
of sloping holds to effect progress. Can I do it? What if I can't? Conditions
The climb is Eagle's Nest Ridge Direct on the Napes Crags above Wasdale Head, Equipment
and it was here, back in April of 1892, that Godfrey Solly stood on the tiptoes of Tick List
his cumbersome leather boots asking himself those very same questions. The
boots to which he must now trust his life were heavily nailed to his own individual Graded
preference; climbers argued greatly over the ideal pattern and type of nails for List
the best purchase on different types of hold. On slabs like this, a single wrought-
iron nail, carefully hammered into the sole, might well be a climber's only point of
contact with the rock.
Solly was, some might say, rather out of his depth and years ahead of his time.
The famous climbing partners Owen Glynne Jones and the Abraham brothers,
George and Ashley, had not yet even met, and it would be another six years before
they made their landmark ascent of Scafell Pinnacle – a climb that is generally
considered to mark the time when climbers moved away from the security of the
cracks and gullies and out onto the bold, open faces for the first time. Yet here was
Solly, perilously perched on the airy rib of Eagle's Nest Ridge. His rope, made from
three strands of manila hemp, interwoven with a signature red thread of worsted
yarn, would be of little use if he fell; the story of British climbing could have been
very different indeed.

Following (sometimes literally) in the footsteps of great pioneers can be a humbling
experience, but is one of the many appeals of Britain's classic mountain routes.
It was on these climbs, often in appalling conditions and with very rudimentary
equipment, that the sport began to take shape during the early 20th century –
ropes were employed for the first time, belaying was invented, threads, runners,
and climbing techniques were born out of an instinct for self-preservation.

Completing the hundred classic climbs described in this book is, therefore, not just
an exploration of some of the best low-grade rock climbs in the country – it is a
journey through some of the most incredible, influential, and fascinating episodes
in the development of rock climbing, all played out on the magnificent mountain
crags of Scotland, Cumbria, and Snowdonia.

1777 James Robertson makes the first ascent of Ben Nevis whilst History
1798 collecting botanical samples. Index
The Rev. William Bingley unknowingly makes the first recorded
August 1802 rock climb in Britain when he ascends the Eastern Terrace of
Clogwyn Du'r Arddu in search of plant specimens.
The first recorded rock climb in England is made by the poet
Samuel Taylor Coleridge by descending from the summit of
Scafell to Mickledore via Broad Stand.