Climb Tafraout

AMNOTRI-OACTCLAANS
1ST EDITION | by Steve Broadbent



CLIMB TAFRAOUT

Holiday Sun Rock in Morocco's Anti-Atlas

1ST EDITION | 2017

An Oxford Alpine Club Guide
by Steve Broadbent

CLIMB TAFRAOUT

Holiday Sun Rock in Morocco’s Anti-Atlas

1st Edition, 2017
by Steve Broadbent

Published in the EU by the Oxford Alpine Club
www.oxfordalpineclub.co.uk
ISBN for this volume 978-0-9935486-2-8
©2017 Oxford Alpine Club
All uncredited images and design by Steve Broadbent ©2017

Cartography by GeoGraphics

ANTI-ATLAS ANCHOR FUND

Proceeds from the sale of this guidebook support the safe replacement of abseil anchors in the Anti-Atlas.

There are an estimated 100 to 150 abseil anchors in-situ in the Anti-Atlas, mostly ‘tat’ left behind by climbers at the end of a route. Increasing
amounts of Nylon tat on popular rappel routes are not only unsightly, but are rapidly weakened in the Moroccan sunshine, creating potentially
unsafe anchors.
Since 2012, Climb-Tafraout have been replacing soft anchors on the most popular descent routes with galvanised steel
slings. These slings do not damage the rock, require no bolting, and have a massive life-span compared with nylon or
kevlar alternatives.
We hope to improve safety on the main abseil routes whilst maintaining a traditional no-bolting ethic. If you would like to
help support this expensive work then please make a donation online at www.climb-tafraout.com/anti-atlas-anchor-fund
Thank you.

PLEASE READ THIS!

Rock climbing is an inherently dangerous activity, and users of this guidebook should have a full understanding of the risks involved. The
Anti-Atlas is not a suitable destination for novice climbers, and routes described in this guide require relevant experience, skills, and careful
judgement. This guidebook is a selection of routes described in the Tafraout-area ‘Livre d’Escalade’ kept in the Hotel Les Amandiers – many of
these remain unchecked and descriptions are those provided by the first ascensionists. Information in this book may therefore be inaccurate,
and users should not treat it as a substitute for good ‘mountain-sense’.

ALL RIGHTS RESERVED

Other than brief quotations for use in reviews, or personal use on a climb, no part of this publication may be reproduced in any form without written
permission from the author. Nor should any text, images, or maps be used for commercial products without permission and acknowledgement
of the author. The author and publisher accept no responsibility for any injury or loss caused as a result of using this guidebook. Images and text
contained within this book do not necessarily represent the views or opinions of the Oxford Alpine Club or the University of Oxford.
Front Cover Photograph: James Lam on Wall Street (E1 5b) at Tizi Gzaouine Crag on the Eastern Escarpment of Jebel el Kest (page 148).

Area Map Page 4 INTRODUCTION 3

Contents Area Map

Area Map 4 Language 25 Crag
Crag Selector 6 Being A Guest 25 Selector
Introduction 10 Buying Souvenirs 25
About This Guidebook 11 Standard Of Living 25 Intro
Other Guidebooks 11 Carpets 27
Maps 11 Vegetation 28 The
When To Visit 12 Wildlife 28 Climbing
Getting To Tafraout 13 The Climbing 31 How to
Money 16 Strategy 32
Provisions 16 Equipment 32 Use
Petrol & Car Maintenance 17 Ethics 32 Suggested
Health, Safety & Travel Advice 17 Fixed Anchors 32
Accommodation 18 The Environment 33 Climbs
Camping 22 Access 33
Places To Eat In Tafraout 22 New Routing 33 Tafraout
Town Plan 23 How To Use This Guidebook 34 Granite
Alcohol 24 Recommended Routes 34
People & Culture 24 Suggested Crags 38 Anergui
Religion 24 Other Things To Do 40
Standards For Travellers 24 Other Places To Climb 40

Acknowledgements to the unstoppable Ron Kenyon, who’s been one of the key personalities in the Ameln
development of the climbing here.Thanks also to Guy Robertson, Paul Ross, Charlie Valley
The mountains aroundTafraout are a magical place, and over the last ten years they Boscoe,Will Sheaff, Richard Rogers and Jon Roberts for their contributions to the Tarakatine
have provided us with some of the most incredible experiences and friendships that south-side material. Pass
a climber could wish for.This guidebook represents what can only be described as Sidi M’Zal
a personal obsession with the rock climbs of the Anti-Atlas, and a project on which On the north side, the late Ben Wintringham, along with Pete Johnson and Mike Jebel Taskra
I have relied on the help of dozens of individuals. Firstly, of course, I must thank Mortimer provided invaluable material for our first edition, which is also included Idaougnidif
my wife, Katja, with whom I have enjoyed countless adventures on these crags, in this latest guide.Topher Dagg provided many detailed descriptions for routes in Afantinzar
and an equal number of frustrating days looking for routes, taking photographs Samazar; andTom Stedall, Steve Cayzer and Andy Morris have also made significant Samazar
and drawing maps. contributions. Alberto Rampini and Silvia Mazzani have made my life so much Aouguenz
easier by providing superb topos and photographs of their additions to the north Tagzene
For this latest edition I must in particular thank the newest members of the‘Climb- side of the range. Tagmout
Tafraout’team... Dave and Lina Arthur have played a huge role in the realisation of
this guide, accompanying us on yet more research trips, belaying, photographing, Of course, I would also like to thank the huge group of Oxford-based climbers History
bouncing ideas, and once again giving up their time to proof-read the text. that have shared adventures with me, and also taken photographs and checked Index
lines. They include: Arnaud Viel, Emmanuel Freudenthal, Caroline Culwick, Sally
It was Sven Letourneau and JudeWaller who first opened our eyes to the climbing Fitton, Sesh Nadathur, Elie Dekoninck, Rachel Mellor, Matt Mellor, Iza Pstrucha,
potential ofTafraout, and to them we are both eternally grateful. Sally Fitton helped Pete Cawley, Will Benfold, Ania Piotrowski, Sarah Pemberton, Tom Codrington,
get the ball rolling on our first guidebook to the north side, and has continued to Cameron Hall, Patrick Timoney, Chris Bull, Jenny Burrow, Aileen Robertson and
provide assistance and motivation with the publishing. Niall Hedderley.

Claude Davies, who wrote the first guidebook to the region back in 2004, not only It would also be remiss of me not to mention the work of previous guidebook
showed us all the way in the first place, but has provided invaluable assistance writers, who have shared the daunting task of making sense of the new-route
with the south-side material, including many of the historical photographs. books: Claude Davies, Emma Alsford, Paul Donnithorne, and Palan Martín, who
Les Brown, Mike Mortimer, Jim Fotheringham, and the late Derek Walker also first documented the sport climbs on the granite around Tafraout.
provided lots of fantastic material about their early climbs. Graham‘Egg’Everitt
and James Strongman have checked many lines on the south-side – between InTafraout, I must give special thanks to Mohammed and Lahcen, of MaisonTroc,
them they probably have more knowledge about Ameln climbing than anyone and all of the staff of the Hotel les Amandiers – particularly Hassan and Mohammed
else around. Graham Little has provided numerous topos and photographs, and for keeping us in beer.Thanks also to the staff of Restaurant La Kasbah, and all of
the ever-enthusiastic Ron Buckley has cajoled his team, including Chris Clarke, Ian the locals who have provided us with information and fascinating stories about
Dugdale and Jim Nuttall, up dozens of new routes in the valley, keeping me busy, Tafraout and its history.
just when I thought I’d got it all...
Finally, of course, I must apologise to anyone who I’ve missed. With such a huge
Martin Bennett and Alan Blackburn, and their team from the Fylde MC, have team of people contributing over such a long timescale there are bound to be
been equally busy and equally helpful in recording and reporting routes, as omissions, for which I’m sorry!
well as providing numerous photographs for the book. Likewise my thanks go

Dou Ighil Tiffrassine Ikharrazn Taledl
Tanout Ihmane
Targa Tinmlil
4 INTRODUCTION |Aguerd AreaIkhyaten Map
N’Saf Ait Ifernine Tinzad
Tazoult Ait Taleb Waghzane Dar Wam
Imirghet Tazka Tifghel
Imghar Ait Oufella
Isfariyine Tizi Messaoud
Isfaren Taylilout N’Takoucht
Dar Lehri Tazka Tanoumist
Tagnza Ighir Ou Wallous Iadlane
Ouassif Hannou
Tagdicht
Tagadirte

Area Map Area Maps:Taketart Ait Bourgane Jebel Tikwyene
Goumhande Ighil Al Khmis 1918 Imifasn Jebel Isdane
Crag
Selector Ou WarrTaiAneFRAOUT AGitRLAacNhgIaTr E p43 Aoudid 1542 Taourirt
ANAEitRAGissUIGpla5w9iyt N’Bou Moussa
Tifghelt
Imrir
Intro TAIAmMTRdaEizAokLuKaNneAVTAIImNLzEiLleEnpY11p86If8erkDhsar Iferd
Adrar Asdrm Ayoufis
The Taskra
Climbing SIDI M’ZAL p137 Tagadirte
JIEdgBAhEafarLeOnTuzAoSurKRA p157 Oufella 1886
How to
Use IDAOUGNIDIF p18Fi1zrane JEBEL TASKRA Doudad Asseldrar
Touchka O Jebel Amzlouy Adrar-n-Taghzout-n-Tasrafiyne Igui Emjioun ThTuhme b
Suggested 1732
Climbs P1009
AFLzAiyNt TINZAR p222 Ait Gal

TARGASNA’TMOUACZHAKRA p288 Ighirane 1951 1902 Assg

ATAOGUZGEUNEENpZ3P42ROa Vs iINs CE p332 Ighaln Alma

Tighrine JEBELTTidAeSnKgRhiA p157

Tafraout TAGMOUT p348Anzad Ait Omar Anammer
GranitEel Khemis AOUGUENZ PIgRhiOr VINCE p332 Imi Wandrat

Issoulgane Aguerd Tiqqi Imi Tagdicht
N’Taghzout
TaAwnerrigrtuei El Mouda
Azrou Tafouhamt Ou Lem

Asoul Timzgid

Ameln Imi N’Tizi Agni Izgawn Tizi Ouchene Wintoud Merguene
Valley
Imzi Tagdicht Lazal Taltemsen Am

Tarakatine Anammer

Pass Taguenza Agadir Liwn AFANTINZAR p222
N’Tiloult
OulbaneTazka Tizi Ouzour Tnine Cda’sIcffandieAd
Ighalne Toudma
AwSyidili M’Zal Anelakht Aguerd Maghoust Ighir
Ouzrou Agni Issagn
Anfig Tiwrar Asgherkiss Aouguenz SAMAZAR pA2n8ez8galn AgrdnAfaPnetainkza
Afantztgult

outJebel Taskra Tanzagour Ifoulen 1691 Tamza 1993
Toundat Isli Ait Yftan
Agoulmim Imziln Anammer
Ogogn JEBEL EL KEST
IdaougAniidtiAf hmad Afla N ’Takouch t Aourir Afantinzar
ou Said N’Takouchte Ait Yidr Tizirt mazar
Ait Ali Ou
Daoud Tamdkrt

Afantinzar Ait Slimane Assif Sa Afa-n-Timezgadiw

Asselgone Tagounite Talat Ibou Ghradn Talmst Aylim Foussaoun TAGZENE p342 2375
Nezdine 1708 Anergui
Samazar Itbiybane Tizkouane Asner
Ait el Ghaz Tagadirte 
Annamr Azour TANALT Dwawj N’Yazza
Aouguenz N’Boutwala

Tighmert Tajgalt

AdrarTaMgzeednnei Ait Moukene Ait ou-Aziz

1405 Thmani Tagzene Tayart SBplruineg
Azouran Tagmout 
Tagmout g h o u z G o r g e
Anammer

r Ama Tagadirte Tissi Asntar ANERGUI p59 Igordan Aglz
Iaazza Loudin
Tinite Soug Tlata Ait Taleb
Tiratine N’Ait Yahya

El Jamaa Tinghirte Amalou As

History Ighir Oudrar Tiwrar Amaghouz Dar Ourtane Tanfit
Awentel
Tizi Ighachan Igherm Tiyyiysk
TIandneoxut Ait Ou Bayd Ait Yahya
P1900 p3A4d8rar Afa N’Tzek Az
TAGMOUT O
Tamarwout Akaltine 1468
Ait Moussa
Biychadrane Tignatin Taguenza Agourgou
Tamra sif Ouamelne
Agni Ou Ali Tikitar Taourirt
Oumaghouz Tamdaloucht Agni Zgzawn Tiwdid
Ait Mous Assif Imi
Tamaloukt Tiwrar
addou Timdikalt
Ikhraden Boughilass N’Tmlalt Tagdiycht Douslogtm A s Tachakcht

Touyilt
Ziaal
Tindouf Amarkhciyne
Aday Andour
Ait Wazaar

Yakoub

Guemz Area Map| INImTi ORusOsaoDulUCTION 5
Garzil
Area Map
mane Ighir Afrad Ait Ait Oumzil Tislane Crag
Ifrane Oubraim
Talat Mousse Selector
Intro
Aoudid Timghour Ait Irhiour Agardan The

R105 Ouaouguert Climbing
How to
IN CASE OF EMERGENCY
Use
Tafraout Police +212 (0)528 800061 Agni Waghy Suggested
Imi OugargaTr afraout Ambulance +212 (0)528 86F2ou9an9ou3
P1900 Imhil Climbs
Assif OudmameTabnanatBritish Consulate +212 (0)528 841219
British Embassy +212 (0)537Ta6lid3le3333 Tafraout
Izougne Granite
Touchant Anergui

ghrkiss Kasbah Tarhzout Reproduced from the GeoGraphics 1:150000 Tourist Explorer MiniMap
 Berni 0km 2km 4km 6km 8km

Tizourgane

R105 Madao
Tarikit
Taourirt As sif Ouakourmad
N’Brour Oussaka
IDAOUGNIDIF

Tifradn SIDI M’ZAL p137 Azghagh Ameln
Tazghaght Valley
mzkhssan Tizi G’Zaouine Tarakatine
Douwalus Pass
Tassilla Tanrart Ikholan
 Agrd Imoul Sidi M’Zal

drar Umlil Imiris Tagmout Jebel Taskra
Ihouzine
ar 1849

IDAOUGNIDIF p181 Dontinzar Aktil

Jebel Tizgui Injaren Idaougnidif
2298 Afantinzar
Adrar Azegzaw Samazar
wine Aouguenz
Tagdicht 2270 Oumsnat Peak Talmst SIDI M’ZAL Tagzene
Tagmout
Tamaloucht AMELN VALL22E1Y6 p68 Ftazarine Taourirt
Asguin Wazal
Ait Oumgas R105
 Aguchtim Peak Tizi
Lion’s Face
N’Tarakatine
Tazult Asgaour Tandelt 2187 Tizgut Peak
Dimlalen Oumsnat
 Maison Traditionelle 2169

Aguchtim Prophet Peak

Tizgut 2030

Amel n Va l l e y AMELN Tadart Imi Tizgut

Ighaln R105 Tifghalt Titke
soul History
Sidi
Abdeljabbar

zrou ouTAFRAOUT GRANITE p43 Adrar Ouirane Adrar Idekel Tarakatine Pass Aferni

Ouadu 1636 Index
um 1778
TAFRAOUT Jebel Amagdour
Imyane Idekel
Aguerd
Oudad 1630 TARAKATINE p118

Ighir BHeorubseerTazga Taghzout
N’Targant
Aday

Amarkhssin

6 INTRODUCTION | Crag Selector Area Map Page 4

Area Map Crag Selector Pitches
Crag Page
Sunshine
Selector Shade available
Intro Suitable for kids
The Access by hitching
Roadside
Climbing Bolt protected
How to Traditional gear
Drive from Tafraout
Use Walk-in time
Suggested Routes D – HS
Routes MVS – HVS
Climbs Routes E1 – E3
Routes E4 +
Tafraout
Granite A. Yelmo Carpantonico 1 44 0:05 0:10 0 0 2 4 5 0Shade Families Hitch Roadside SPORT TRAD 0
Anergui 0
Ameln Tafraout Granite – Map p43 B. Tazka’s 2nd Dome 3 45 0:05 0:10 1 1 1 0 2 1Shade Families Hitch Roadside SPORT TRAD 0
Valley 2
Tarakatine C. Flake Quake 4 46 0:05 0:10 0 1 0 0 0 1Shade Families Hitch Roadside SPORT TRAD 1
Pass 0
Sidi M’Zal D. Black Wall 1 46 0:05 0:20 0 6 6 1 6 0Shade Families Hitch Roadside SPORT TRAD 0
0
Jebel Taskra E. High Sierra 4 48 0:10 0:10 1 1 0 0 0 0Shade Families Hitch Roadside SPORT TRAD 0
0
Idaougnidif F. Amalu Wall 1 50 0:15 0:15 0 0 0 3 0 3Shade Families Hitch Roadside SPORT TRAD 1
1
Afantinzar G. Painted Rocks 1 50 0:15 0:02 0 1 0 0 1 0Shade Families Hitch Roadside SPORT TRAD 0
1
Samazar H. Eflodne 3 51 0:10 0:05 1 2 2 0 0 1Shade Families Hitch Roadside SPORT TRAD 0
4
Aouguenz Anergui – Map p59 A. Anergui Playground 1 59 0:40 0:02 4 5 0 0 6 2Shade Families Hitch Roadside SPORT TRAD 1
0
Tagzene B. Anergui Lower 6-8 61 0:40 0:15 1 8 1 0 4 3Shade Families Hitch Roadside SPORT TRAD 4
1
Tagmout C. Anergui Upper 4-6 63 0:40 0:40 0 8 3 0 1 7Shade Families Hitch Roadside SPORT TRAD 3
1
History D. Jebel el Kest Many 66 0:40 0:10 3 0 0 0 0 1Shade Families Hitch Roadside SPORT TRAD 1
0
Index A. Blue Spring Crag 1 72 0:15 0:10 5 7 3 0 2 4Shade Families Hitch Roadside SPORT TRAD 0
0
B. Black Crag (Tazult) 1 74 0:10 0:30 2 9 2 0 5 1Shade Families Hitch Roadside SPORT TRAD 1
0
C. Lion’s Face Many 76 0:10 1:00+ 2 7 0 0 0 5Shade Families Hitch Roadside SPORT TRAD 0

D. Crag K (Asgaour Gorge) 2-3 79 0:10 0:40 0 4 11 3 4 6Shade Families Hitch Roadside SPORT TRAD

E. Mosque Valley Slabs 1 84 0:10 0:50 2 3 7 0 3 2Shade Families Hitch Roadside SPORT TRAD

The Ameln Valley – Map p68 F. Palm Tree Gorge 1 86 0:10 0:15 5 11 13 4 22 9Shade Families Hitch Roadside SPORT TRAD

G. Tizgut Gorge 1-4 91 0:20 0:30 4 28 8Shade Families Hitch Roadside SPORT TRAD 1 21 7

H. Prophet Peak Many 99 0:15 1:30 2 0 0 0 1 0Shade Families Hitch Roadside SPORT TRAD

I. The White Tower 6 103 0:15 1:30 0 6 2 0 0 1Shade Families Hitch Roadside SPORT TRAD

J. Point 1937 2 108 0:15 1:45 0 0 1 0 0 0Shade Families Hitch Roadside SPORT TRAD

K. Hidden Wall 3-4 110 0:15 1:40 0 2 3 0 2 1Shade Families Hitch Roadside SPORT TRAD

L. Profanisaurus Pinnacle 1 111 0:15 1:40 0 2 1 0 3 0Shade Families Hitch Roadside SPORT TRAD

M. Tifghalt Lower 6-8 112 0:15 1:00 1 8 0 0 2 3Shade Families Hitch Roadside SPORT TRAD

N. Tifghalt Upper 5 114 0:15 1:20 0 4 0 0 0 4Shade Families Hitch Roadside SPORT TRAD

O. Crag W 5-6 115 0:15 1:05 1 6 5 0 1 3Shade Families Hitch Roadside SPORT TRAD

p118 A. Tarakatine Pass 1 118 0:20 0:10 125 18Shade Families Hitch Roadside SPORT TRAD 2 0 71 8

B. Adrar Idekel - 135 0:20 0:15 1 0 0 0 1 0Shade Families Hitch Roadside SPORT TRAD

Area Map Page 4 Crag Selector | INTRODUCTION 7

Crag Selector Pitches Area Map
Page
Sunshine Crag
Shade available Selector
Suitable for kids
Access by hitching
Roadside
Bolt protected
Traditional gear
Drive from Tafraout
Walk-in time
Routes D – HS
Routes MVS – HVS
Routes E1 – E3
Routes E4 +

A. Fylde Crag 3-4 137 0:30 0:30 1 4 2 0 2 1 1Shade Families Hitch Roadside SPORT TRAD Intro
B. Greek Buttress 6-7 139 The
Sidi M’Zal Area – Map p137 5-6 142 0:35 0:50 0 5 5 0 3 1 4Shade Families Hitch Roadside SPORT TRAD Climbing
C. Arch Wall 2-4 144 How to
D. Dinosaur Wall 1 146 0:35 1:00 1 2 4 0 3 1 2Shade Families Hitch Roadside SPORT TRAD Use
E. Tizi Gzaouine Crag 1 151 Suggested
F. Tizi Gzaouine Gorge 1-3 154 0:35 0:30 0 0 11 1 3 2 2Shade Families Hitch Roadside SPORT TRAD Climbs
2-4 158
G. Boar Walls 8-10 164 0:40 0:05 19 11Shade Families Hitch Roadside SPORT TRAD 4 1 14 5 4 Tafraout
A. Tramline Slabs 1-2 168 Granite
B. Asseldrar Thumb 2 171 0:40 0:05 13 3 0 0 7 0 0Shade Families Hitch Roadside SPORT TRAD Anergui
C. Tifghelt Buttress 1-2 172 Ameln
5-6 174 0:50 0:40 2 3 2 2 2 0 3Shade Families Hitch Roadside SPORT TRAD Valley
D. Echo Wall 1-2 176 Tarakatine
E. Snowman’s Bluff 3-4 182 1:00 0:45 6 20 14 0 16 12 6Shade Families Hitch Roadside SPORT TRAD Pass
F. Taskra East Pillars 1 184 Sidi M’Zal
Jebel Taskra – Map p157 2-5 187 1:00 0:30 0 3 6 1 2 4 4Shade Families Hitch Roadside SPORT TRAD
G. Imrir Crags 1 193 Jebel Taskra
A. Amzkhssan Wall 4-7 194 1:10 0:40 2 3 9 1 3 5 5Shade Families Hitch Roadside SPORT TRAD
B. Tassilla Bastion 1 198 Idaougnidif
2-5 200 1:10 0:20 0 1 4 1 2 1 3Shade Families Hitch Roadside SPORT TRAD
C. Adrar Iffran 1-2 218 Afantinzar
D. Arrow Rock 5-7 223 1:15 0:20 0 1 7 0 2 4 1Shade Families Hitch Roadside SPORT TRAD
E. Adrar Asmit 2-3 226 Samazar
F. Shepherd’s Crag 5-7 228 1:15 0:15 1 5 1 0 3 2 2Shade Families Hitch Roadside SPORT TRAD
G. Adrar Umlil 6-7 229 Aouguenz
H. Col Crags 6-9 233 1:15 0:40 0 5 14 2 6 9 4Shade Families Hitch Roadside SPORT TRAD
A. Ighir Crags 4-7 236 Tagzene
1 242 1:00 0:02 8 1 0 0 5 0 0Shade Families Hitch Roadside SPORT TRAD
B. Akida 1 248 Tagmout
Idaougnidif Area – Map p181 C. Harram Peak 1-4 268 1:00 0:10 6 6 1 0 4 3 0Shade Families Hitch Roadside SPORT TRAD
D. The Sanctuary History
E. Lower Eagle Crag 1:00 0:30 2 11 9 3 6 11 3Shade Families Hitch Roadside SPORT TRAD
F. Upper Eagle Crag Index
G. Griffin Rock 1:00 0:40 1 5 3 0 2 1 2Shade Families Hitch Roadside SPORT TRAD
H. Anammer Crags
1:00 1:00 3 2 2 1 4 3 1Shade Families Hitch Roadside SPORT TRAD
I. Ksar Rock
1:00 0:20 7 7 0 0 9 0 0Shade Families Hitch Roadside SPORT TRAD

1:00 1:00 22 20 29 3 20 28 15Shade Families Hitch Roadside SPORT TRAD

1:00 0:10 12 12Shade Families Hitch Roadside SPORT TRAD 6 0 13 5 1

1:15 0:30 3 9 2 0 1 7 3Shade Families Hitch Roadside SPORT TRAD

1:15 0:35 4 1 0 0 0 5 0Shade Families Hitch Roadside SPORT TRAD

Afantinzar – Map p222 1:15 1:00 0 2 0 0 1 1 0Shade Families Hitch Roadside SPORT TRAD

1:15 0:20 0 2 8 0 1 3 1Shade Families Hitch Roadside SPORT TRAD

1:15 0:20 1 2 5 0 1 4 3Shade Families Hitch Roadside SPORT TRAD

Shade Families Hitch Roadside SPORT TRAD 1:15 0:35 0 1 16 2 2 10 3

1:15 0:10 4 12 26 4 17 13 2Shade Families Hitch Roadside SPORT TRAD

1:15 0:05 67 38 13 0 43 23 8Shade Families Hitch Roadside SPORT TRAD

1:15 0:10 13 38 28 1 16 34 20Shade Families Hitch Roadside SPORT TRAD

8 INTRODUCTION | Crag Selector Area Map Page 4

Area Map Crag Selector Pitches
Crag Page
Sunshine
Selector Shade available
Intro Suitable for kids
The Access by hitching
Roadside
Climbing Bolt protected
How to Traditional gear
Drive from Tafraout
Use Walk-in time
Suggested Routes D – HS
Routes MVS – HVS
Climbs Routes E1 – E3
Routes E4 +
Tafraout
Granite A. Agouti & Igiliz 4+ 290 1:30 0:05 3 3 0 0 4 1 0Shade Families Hitch Roadside SPORT TRAD
Anergui B. Aylim Many 294
Ameln Many 305 1:40 0:20 6 11 3 0 8 2 6Shade Families Hitch Roadside SPORT TRAD
Valley C. Waterfall Walls 1-6 308
Tarakatine Samazar – Map p288 D. Dragon Rock 10 322 1:40 0:25 0 5 5 1 4 5 0Shade Families Hitch Roadside SPORT TRAD
Pass 3-4 324 1:40 0:25 3 23 25 2 15 18 16Shade Families Hitch Roadside SPORT TRAD
Sidi M’Zal E. Safinah 2 326
F. Aguerd Cioch Many 328 1:45 0:25 0 2 1 0 1 1 1Shade Families Hitch Roadside SPORT TRAD
Jebel Taskra G. Icebox Canyon 1-3 332
H. Afantztgult 4 334 1:40 0:10 1 5 1 0 4 3 0Shade Families Hitch Roadside SPORT TRAD
Idaougnidif A. Temple Slabs 1 336
B. Hairpin Slabs 3-4 338 1:30 0:20 0 3 8 1 2 4 2Shade Families Hitch Roadside SPORT TRAD
Afantinzar C. Azumer Crag 1-3 339
D. Kakaa Wall 1:30 0:15 1 3 0 0 2 2 0Shade Families Hitch Roadside SPORT TRAD
Samazar E. Faulty Towers 1 342
Tagmout – p348 p342 Aouguenz – Map p332 A. Tagzene Gorge 5 347 1:10 0:05 4 1 1 0 4 0 1Shade Families Hitch Roadside SPORT TRAD
Aouguenz B. Babouche Buttress 3 349
A. Adrar Imtwan 1 350 1:15 0:10 1 1 0 0 1 0 1Shade Families Hitch Roadside SPORT TRAD
Tagzene B. Akaltine Edge 1-2 354
C. Robin Hood Rocks 1 372 1:15 0:50 12 9 2 0 5 6 1Shade Families Hitch Roadside SPORT TRAD
Tagmout D. Maid Marion Rocks
1:45 0:30 0 0 2 0 0 0 2Shade Families Hitch Roadside SPORT TRAD

1:45 0:30 0 7 9 1 5 4 8Shade Families Hitch Roadside SPORT TRAD

1:15 0:10 19 5 0 0 15 4 1Shade Families Hitch Roadside SPORT TRAD

1:15 0:15 0 1 0 0 0 0 1Shade Families Hitch Roadside SPORT TRAD

1:00 0:40 2 1 0 0 2 0 0Shade Families Hitch Roadside SPORT TRAD

0:40 0:02 13 12Shade Families Hitch Roadside SPORT TRAD 2 0 13 2 1

0:40 0:10 15 34 25 5 16 29 18Shade Families Hitch Roadside SPORT TRAD

0:20 0:50 19 5 1 0 11 2 1Shade Families Hitch Roadside SPORT TRAD

For more recommendations for where to go in different
conditions, see the suggested climbs section on page 38.

Katja Broadbent on The Scoop (VS 4c) at Akaltine Edge. 

Photo: Steve Broadbent

History
Index

Area Map Page 4 Crag Selector | INTRODUCTION 9

Area Map
Crag

Selector
Intro
The

Climbing
How to

Use
Suggested

Climbs

Tafraout
Granite
Anergui
Ameln
Valley
Tarakatine
Pass
Sidi M’Zal

Jebel Taskra

Idaougnidif

Afantinzar

Samazar

Aouguenz

Tagzene

Tagmout

History

Index

10 INTRODUCTION Town Plan Page 23

Area Map Introduction hillsides. Here
you will find
Crag Welcome to Tafraout – a magical climbing oasis no polish
Selector on the rock,
on the doorstep of Europe: a place where you can and with the
Intro enjoy winter sun, good quality rock, and adventurous exception of
traditional climbs amidst the stunning sub-Saharan some chalk
The scenery. This is a place with a little bit of everything, on the most
Climbing from roadside cragging, bouldering, and even the popular routes,
How to odd sport route, to epic mountain adventures. It’s you will see little
a paradise of enchanting pink granite and endless evidence of those who
Use orange quartzite; a place immersed in an exotic have passed before. A keen
Suggested culture and a relaxed attitude to life, where only eye for route-finding will, therefore,
the most adventurous tourists have ventured. For make the difference between a pleasant ascent of
Climbs climbers who live and breathe traditional, ground- a classic route, and a ‘brilliant’ off-route adventure.
up climbing it’s hard to imagine a more suitable and Tafraout, however, is more than just another winter-
Tafraout convenient winter destination. Those who thrive on sun climbing destination: it is a fascinating cultural
Granite solitude, adventure, and a closeness to nature, need journey, brimming with character, overflowing
look no further. with adventure, and under-written by a bizarre
Anergui As a climbing destination, Tafraout has rocketed colonialism. Climbers motivated solely by grades
into public awareness in recent years, but despite and technical difficulty will perhaps miss out on
Ameln constant attention from European climbers since Tafraout’s greatest pleasures. Those who climb for the
Valley 1991, the vast area of Jebel el Kest and the Anti- experience, the adventure, and arrive with a healthy
Tarakatine Atlas mountains easily absorbs the influx of visitors. sense of humour, on the other hand, are about to
Pass Climbing here is rather like stepping back in time discover something very special indeed...
to a period when unclimbed lines still littered our

Sidi M’Zal

Jebel Taskra

Idaougnidif

Afantinzar

Samazar

Aouguenz

Tagzene

Tagmout

History
Index

Approach Map Page 14 Other guides & maps | INTRODUCTION 11

About this Guidebook ONLINE RESOURCES Area Map

Climbing guidebooks to Tafraout and the Anti-Atlas Before you visit Tafraout, make sure you visit our Crag
have progressed at a staggering rate since Claude website for latest updates, free stuff, and discounts: Selector
Davies’ landmark Cicerone guide first described
the Ameln Valley in 2004. Since then, no less than www.climb-tafraout.com Intro
7 different books have been published, as climbers • Online trip planner, with flight, car hire and
have explored ever more corners of the Anti-Atlas The
range, recording new routes at the rate of about two accommodation advice. Climbing
hundred per winter. That rate of development has • Exclusive discounts on Tafraout hotels.
begun to slow down in recent years, and whilst in • Packing lists, maps, and other useful How to
the past the majority of climbers were coming to look Use
for new routes, today most visiting climbers arrive in resources for your trip.
Tafraout to savour some of the 2000 or so existing • Free downloads, including topos and maps. Suggested
climbs, many of which have achieved classic status. • Guidebook updates and new-route information. Climbs
This guidebook is the first of a kind, describing more
than 1400 high quality climbs across the entire range, Maps
providing a ‘one-stop-shop’ not only for first-time
visitors, but also those people making multiple repeat Until recently the Anti-Atlas region was poorly Tafraout
visits. Although it is a selective guide, instead of mapped and finding one’s way around was Granite
choosing the best climbs we have merely omitted the notoriously difficult. Today, however, the area is
‘poorer’quality crags, thus providing almost definitive covered by three series of GeoGraphics maps, all of Anergui
coverage of almost all of the worthwhile climbing which will be of interest to the climber:
that Tafraout has to offer, from 800m adventures to Ameln
technical roadside cragging, and even sport climbing Tourist Explorer Map 1 Valley
and bouldering on the granite tors round Aguerd This double-sided map features Tarakatine
Oudad. a 1:750000 road map of Pass
southern Morocco, as well as a
Other Guidebooks 1:150000 ‘piste map’of the Anti- Sidi M’Zal
Atlas region from Ait Baha to
Tafraout: Rock Climbing in Morocco’s Anti-Atlas Tafraout, perfect for exploring Jebel Taskra
Published by the OAC the area by car or on bike.
in 2013, the definitive Idaougnidif
guidebook series is Outdoor Activity Maps 1-5
now out of print. Online The whole area is covered at Afantinzar
updates are available 1:50000 scale by this series of
from the Climb-Tafraout handy A2 MiniMaps, great for Samazar
website. finding your way to the crag in
the car and on foot. Also useful
Tafraout Pocket Guides for exploring the range on rest-
Published in 2014, these days and bad weather days.
handy and popular pocket-
sized guidebooks are still Adventure Map 2 Aouguenz
a valuable resource for For hikers and trekkers wishing Tagzene
climbers wanting to carry to explore the Jebel el Kest Tagmout
a guidebook up multi-pitch routes. They cover the escarpment on foot, this
entire range in three volumes. 1:25000, double-sided A1
Morocco Rock MiniMap represents the most
Published in 2012, this was a detailed mapping of the Anti-
definitive guide to climbs on Atlas region currently available.
the north side of Jebel el Kest.
Still widely available. Excerpts from all of these maps have been used History
throughout this guidebook, but to get the most Index
out of your Tafraout adventure, sheet maps can be
purchased in our online store at

www.climb-tafraout.com

12 INTRODUCTION | When to visit Town Plan Page 23

Area Map

Crag
Selector

Intro

The  Tafraout, baking under Saharan sunshine in October. Blue,  Tafraout, following a flash flood in December. Major weather
Climbing cloudless skies are common during early and late season, although events are rare, but dramatic!
it can still get cold at night.
How to November - December
Use Traditionally this is the wet season, but don’t let
that put you off as rain is rarely prolonged enough
Suggested to put a stop to climbing. Temperatures can get
Climbs quite chilly, particularly in the shade or during the
evenings, and thermal clothing will be required.
Tafraout When to visit Cloud cover can make the higher crags rather
Granite Throughout the winter months the Anti-Atlas have unpleasant, so head for low-lying, south-facing
Anergui an almost perfect climate for climbing. The long routes.
Ameln winter season, which runs from late September
Valley right through to the end of April, is one of the January - February
Tarakatine biggest attractions for trad climbers looking to The early Spring can be unpredictable – if the
Pass escape the wet European weather. Autumn was wet then January and February are
Sidi M’Zal Although Tafraout can see rain at any time usually dry, with pleasant temperatures around
throughout the winter, it is rare and unlikely to 15 to 20 degrees and long periods of clear skies
Jebel Taskra spoil a climbing trip. Likewise, an unusually cool and perfect climbing conditions. If, however, the
airmass can sink down from Europe at any time, Autumn was very dry then rain frequently falls in
Idaougnidif bringing surprisingly chilly temperatures to the the early Spring.
higher mountain crags. Climbers visiting the area
Afantinzar between November and March are, therefore, March - April
advised to bring lightweight waterproofs, whilst Spring usually gives excellent climbing conditions,
Samazar thermal shirts or fleeces will almost certainly with hot daytime temperatures (between 15
be required throughout the season. Of course, and 25 degrees) and long periods of sunshine.
Aouguenz during the heat of the day, temperatures in the Exceptionally, winter rain can persist right through
high twenties will necessitate cool, loose clothing to the end of March, though this is unlikely. The
Tagzene when climbing. landscape is usually green, with almond blossom
Typical conditions are as follows: and wild flowers creating a particularly spectacular
Tagmout sight.
September - October
History As the summer heat begins to subside in late
September, conditions are usually hot and dry.
Thunderstorms are possible, though rare, and
prolonged rain is very unlikely. North-facing,
high-altitude crags come into their own, whilst
the lower, south-facing crags of the Ameln Valley
can be unbearably hot. Daytime temperatures vary
between 20 and 30 degrees.

Index

Approach Map Page 14 Getting to Tafraout | INTRODUCTION 13

Agadir and Marrakech both serve as bases for an
overland adventure to Tafraout, and direct bus Area Map
MARRAKECH services run from both cities. The best service, routing
Crag
Essaouira from Marrakech to Tafraout via Agadir, Inezgane, Ait Selector

Chichaoua  TbSMAeyeaCIltloTsNuMoSln,, Tatinhzdneittoi,cuIdktebatoosuucsnamdnlbjaoleuabrnnodeoAykeiotdfWtaeatnfwkfaiwlliswuop.cptsemerva.emteraadl. Intro
days in advance and so prior booking is advised.
Asni O U N The
Climbing
Imi-N-Tanoute L A S M For the return journey it is usually possibly to book How to

ANTI H IGH AT seats at the CTM office in Tafraout the evening before Use
A7 travel. The bus leaves Tafraout every day at 8am, Suggested
taking about 9 hours to reach Marrakech.
Taliouine Climbs

AGADIR Taroudant From Agadir it is also possible to reach Tafraout by Tafraout
Grande Taxi. The airport is located out of town, so Granite
 MOUNTAINS travellers wishing to benefit from down-town rental
Biougra rates or take public transport to Tafraout will need Anergui
Ait Baha L A S Igherm to go by taxi into the city (about 150 Dirhams). The
onward journey from Agadir bus station is usually Ameln
- A T made via Tiznit, for which it is advisable to negotiate a Valley
price before travel (30 Dirham is normal). The Grande Tarakatine
Tiznit Taxis will wait until they are full before departing, and Pass
this can take up to an hour. At Tiznit you will often
TAFRAOUT be dropped off at the south-eastern side of the town Sidi M’Zal
walls, from where you will need to walk round the
Getting to Tafraout outside of the walls to Ave du 20 Aout, which runs out
The oasis town of Tafraout (alternatively Tafraoute of the wall at Bab Mechouar, on the south-western
or Tafrawt) is located in the Anti-Atlas mountains, in side. The Grande Taxi lot is at the end of Ave du 20
the southwest of Morocco. It is most easily reached Aout, where it is easy to get a seat to Tafraout for
by car from Agadir (a 2½ hour drive) or Marrakech about 30 Dirhams.
(a 5½ hour drive).

Flights Climbers’ Airport and Crag Transfers Jebel Taskra
A number of UK airlines operate services to Agadir Al
Massira, with return flights typically costing between Although not the cheapest option, private transfers Idaougnidif
£180 and £300 per person. Ryanair, British Airways, are available through Tafraout-based Maison Troc, Afantinzar
easyJet, Thomas Cook and Thomson services operate who offer airport pick-ups, as well as lifts to and Samazar
from a variety of UK airports, though flights are from crags. This service can also be useful for hikers
limited and can be expensive at short notice. wishing to leave their car at one end of a walk.
Flying to Marrakech Menara is usually a cheaper Contact Lahcen on +212 67303909 to arrange.
alternative, and most major airlines run daily flights
from a wide variety of European airports. Return Hiring a Car Aouguenz
flights from the UK typically cost between £130 and Most climbers visiting Tafraout will want to hire a car Tagzene
£250. for the duration of their stay, and it is advisable to Tagmout
book online before your trip. All major rental agencies
Public Transport have desks at both Agadir and Marrakech airports,
Hiring a car is strongly recommended, as it makes and good deals have been found through brokers
it much easier to visit the majority of crags in this such as Holiday Autos and Rhino Car Hire.
book. That said, it is not uncommon for people to
find themselves without private transport, and the Although many of the Anti-Atlas crags are accessed History
following notes will hopefully be of use. via unsurfaced tracks (known as pistes), 4WD is not Index
Tafraout is served by a variety of inter-city bus necessary provided care is taken. A standard car
services and taxis (of the grande and petit varieties), typically costs between £150 and £200 per week
which make a trip by public transport perfectly at Agadir or Marrakech airports. The quality of cars
feasible, if a little adventurous. has been found to be generally poor, with bald
tires, unserviceable equipment and missing jacks
frequently reported.

20 INTRODUCTION | Accommodation Town Plan Page 23

Area Map Accommodation in the Ameln Valley HOTEL TÊTE DU LION 
A number of small guest-houses and hotels provide BAR
Crag accommodation in the Ameln Valley, with the
Selector advantage of being very close to some of the south- Also located close to Ameln, this hotel is a good
side crags. It’s worth bearing in mind, however, that option for those wishing to explore the Ameln
Intro there are very limited facilites here, and trips into valley who don’t mind being away from the
Tafraout are likely to be required for supplies, or any amenities of Tafraout. The rooms are basic, but
The variety of food. For those with a car, the average clean, and excellent home-cooked food is available
Climbing driving times to the crags are similar to those when in the evenings. Alcohol is also available.
staying in Tafraout, although climbers travelling Email: [email protected] | [email protected]
How to on foot will benefit from the proximity to a limited Tel: +212 (0)528 801165
Use number of crags. Rooms: 250Dh (single) | 300Dh (Double) | 350Dh (Triple)

Suggested
Climbs

HOTEL CHEZ AMALIYA 
BAR AIR CON

Tafraout
Granite

Anergui AUBERGE TILILA

Ameln This very pleasant, European-owned hotel is Basic accommodation in the village of Asgaour,
Valley located close to the main junction in Ameln. It close to the Lion’s Face and within walking distance
Tarakatine offers very attractive, authentically decorated and of several good crags.
Pass family-friendly rooms in an superb setting beneath Email: [email protected]
the Lion’s Face. A very picturesque swimming pool Rooms: Prices on request.
Sidi M’Zal and terrace are particularly appreciated on hot
days.
Jebel Taskra Email: [email protected]
Website: http://www.chezamaliya.com
Idaougnidif Tel: +212 (0)528 800065
Rooms: 330Dh (single) | 500Dh (Double) | 1000Dh (Suite)
Afantinzar

Samazar  The Ameln Valley, with greenery flourishing following the winter rains.

Aouguenz

Tagzene

Tagmout

History
Index

Approach Map Page 14 Accommodation | INTRODUCTION 21

Accommodation on the North Side ANAMMER GUESTHOUSE Area Map
Accommodation on the north side of Jebel el
Kest is very limited, and the lack of provisions and Crag
facilities mean that most teams will feel the need Selector
to visit Tafraout to re-stock at some point during
their trip. Access to the north-side crags is obviously Intro
much quicker, and the following guest houses can
provide an excellent base for a few days exploring Located in Anammer village, underneath the south The
the northern part of the range. face of Ksar Rock, this small guest house provides Climbing
unique accommodation for climbers, within easy How to
KASBAH TIZOURGANE walking distance of some of the best climbing in
the range. The accommodation is basic, but the Use
The magnificent walled Kasbah at Tizourgane is young owners speak good English and French, and Suggested
one of the most impressive pieces of Moroccan their kind hospitality will add a fascinating cultural
architecture in the region, and staying at the small experience to any climbing trip to the area. Climbs
family-run guest house in the heart of the fortified One double bedroom is available, but beds can also
village is a great way to see a little bit of genuine be made up in a large sitting room with balcony, Tafraout
Berber culture. The Kasbah is ideally situated which affords stunning views across to the Grand Granite
for climbing on the north side of the range, and Wall of Lower Eagle Crag.
has become correspondingly popular amongst Accommodation is provided on a full-board basis, Anergui
climbers in recent years, particularly those who including dinner, bed, and breakfast. A fridge is
aren’t keen on long drives! Home-cooked food available for guests’ use, so if you can manage a Ameln
is available in the evenings, but the variety can supermarket visit in Agadir then you can enjoy a Valley
be rather limited and no alcohol is available. The cold beer at the end of the day! Tarakatine
owners are very welcoming, and speak good The guesthouse is located on the left, as you walk Pass
English. Rooms can be quite cold in winter months, up through Anammer, just before the end of the
so warm clothing is advised... village. It is shown on the photo on page 268. Sidi M’Zal
Email: [email protected] Tel: +212 (0)671 897796 | +212 (0)648 475447
Website: http://www.tizourgane-kasbah.com Rooms: Approx 300Dh (two people, full board) Jebel Taskra
Tel: +212 (0)661 941350
Rooms: 360Dh (Double) | 540Dh (Triple) MADAO GUESTHOUSE Idaougnidif
 The Kasbah Tizourgane, with the north side of Jebel el Kest
behind. A small cafe / guesthouse in Madao provides Afantinzar
accommodation that might be useful for climbers
on a budget. Samazar
Rooms: 220Dh (room with breakfast)
Aouguenz

Tagzene

Tagmout

History
Index

22 INTRODUCTION | Eating out Town Plan Page 23

Area Map CAMPING RESTAURANT LA KASBAH
Crag
Few climbers choose to camp in the Anti-Atlas, This excellent family-owned restaurant is located
Selector perhaps due to the limitations on airline baggage, on the Aguerd Oudad road, opposite the Maison
Intro the lack of surface drinking water, and the presence Troc carpet shop, and is a favourite lunchtime
The of snakes and scorpions throughout the range. That venue for the more affluent locals, who often
said, there are options available for those who prefer congregate here to share a tagine and seemingly
Climbing to sleep under canvas. endless games of cards. This fact is a good advert
How to The ‘3 Palms’ campsite in Tafraout provides clean for the quality of the food here, and indeed the
showers and washing facilities, and is usually busy Kasbah is known for some of the best tagines in
Use with European motor-homes. Tents are welcome, town – particularly the local Khalia. Unlike some
Suggested but there is no grass. The site is rumoured to be of the more tourist-focussed eateries in town, the
chemically treated so as to be ‘snake free’, though Kasbah is all about home-cooked, quality food,
Climbs this has not been confirmed! and the friendly staff are happy to accommodate
Wild camping options are very limited, and there a variety of dietary needs. Indeed, the vegetarian
Tafraout have been several incidences of climbers being tagines are the best in the area.
Granite asked to move on by the local population. Remember The ambience is one of traditional Moroccan
Anergui that all of the land here is privately owned, and often affluence, and the low tables and sofas provide
Ameln provides a source of food for the Berbers, even when a peaceful and comfortable place to hang out
Valley this is far from obvious to western eyes. Short-term and drink mint tea. Since it is both owned and
Tarakatine bivouacs are possible at the base of higher crags, frequented by the more ‘nomadic’ demographic,
Pass well away from villages, though great care should be it is also a good place to procure illicit alcohol
Sidi M’Zal taken to leave no trace of your visit. It goes without (there’s a reason the nomads are there to play
saying that all water requirements will have to be cards). Wine and beer is often available even if
Jebel Taskra met with bottled water. not on the menu, but please use some discretion
The schoolhouse junction in Samazar provides the as there are religious sensitivities.
Idaougnidif only feasible roadside bivi spot, though tents must Full menu: 90 – 120 Dh
not be left up here during the day, and all trace of
Afantinzar your stay must be removed on a daily basis.

Samazar Places to Eat in Tafraout

Aouguenz The local food tends to be simple, cheap, and of
limited variety. Tagine (slow-cooked stew) is the most
Tagzene popular dish and is available in most restaurants and
cafes, along with couscous and brochettes (meat
Tagmout kebabs). There are a number of eateries in Tafraout,
and in general the hygiene of these establishments
History has not come under question. However, standards are
not comparable to those seen in the UK, and a lack
Index of safe water, soap, and clean toilets, coupled with
the presence of animal waste, pests and flies around
town does not inspire confidence. As a general rule,
the dangers are small and certainly not as substantial
as those in India and the Himalaya, or other parts of
Africa. Avoid drinking non-chlorinated tap water and
eating ice cream, but salads, vegetables, fruit, rice,
and meat seem to be safe.
Climbers staying in Tafraout have a huge choice
of restaurants and cafes available to them, and
exploring these is part of the ‘Tafraout experience’.
It is, therefore, not within the scope of this guide to
describe them in detail, other than the following
recommendation:

Approach Map Page 14 Tafraout town plan | INTRODUCTION 23

R105
R105 to Ameln Valley,
the quartzite, and Agadir Supermarket Area Map
Medical Centre
Shop Crag
ATM Hotel Les Amis Selector

Hotel Saint Antoine Intro
Hotel Salama
The
Hotel Les Amandiers Climbing

How to
Use

Suggested
Climbs

Restaurant La Kasbah Tafraout
Maison Troc Granite
Hotel Argana
Anergui
R104 to Aday R104
and Tahala Ameln
Valley

Tarakatine
Pass

Sidi M’Zal

Tazga

Jebel Taskra

Ancient Berber R107 Idaougnidif
house

Flake Quake Elephant Rock Afantinzar
(multi-pitch HVS) bouldering circuit Samazar
Black Wall
(great shady crag) Aouguenz

Tagzene

Freeway Tagmout
(easy bolted route)

Aguerd History
Oudad Index
R107 to
Reproduced from the 2016 GeoGraphics 1:25 000 Adventure Map, available at Maison Troc, or online at www.climb-tafraout.com 2km Painted
0m 200m 400m 600m 800m 1km Rocks and
Izerbi

30 INTRODUCTION | The climbing Area Map Page 4

Area Map
Crag

Selector
Intro
The

Climbing
How to

Use
Suggested

Climbs

Tafraout
Granite
Anergui
Ameln
Valley
Tarakatine
Pass
Sidi M’Zal

Jebel Taskra

Idaougnidif

Afantinzar

Samazar

Aouguenz

Tagzene

Tagmout

History

Index

Area Map Page 4 The climbing | INTRODUCTION 31

The Climbing ! BEWARE OF LOOSE ROCK Area Map
One of the appealing things about the climbing
here is the tremendous variety on offer, and with Crag
bouldering, cragging, multi-pitch, and long mountain Selector
routes all within easy reach, every day of a Tafraout
climbing holiday can be different. Intro
Fundamentally, the region is split into two areas, with
adventurous, traditionally protected quartzite to the The
north, and interesting, roadside granite to the south. Climbing

Quartzite The Anti-Atlas are known for the superb quality How to
(North of the Ameln Valley, including the Ameln Crags, of the quartzite, but do not be misled – this is still Use
Jebel el Kest, Afantinzar, Samazar, Idaougnidif, Tanalt, an adventurous destination, and routes here have
and Jebel Taskra). seen very little traffic. Loose blocks and flakes still Suggested
Quartzite is a unique climbing medium, producing lie in wait, even on the more popular routes, and Climbs
extremely satisfying low- to mid-grade routes with climbers should adopt a cautious approach.
excellent holds, good protection, large stances and A number of serious accidents have occurred here Tafraout
steep pitches. Many of the buttresses appear either when climbers have pulled off large loose blocks, Granite
difficult or unattractive from the road but on closer and a worrying number of teams have had their
inspection reveal solid rock with some surprisingly ropes cut by falling rock. Anergui
easy routes. Having said that, the Anti-Atlas is not a • Treat all blocks with suspicion, testing them
suitable place for large groups of novice climbers. Ameln
Most of the routes here do not require a high level before pulling up. Valley
of skill, strength, or fitness – instead they advocate • Beware of flat ‘flake edges’ that are often Tarakatine
careful movement, thoughtful protection, and Pass
plenty of big-route experience. This is adventure poorly attached.
trad-climbing at its very best, where skilful route- • Always wear a helmet at the crag, even Sidi M’Zal
finding, prudence, yet a confident approach, will be
rewarded with some incredible climbing. when you’re not climbing. Jebel Taskra
Less experienced parties are advised to choose • Think about where you belay, and where
their initial routes with care, as the comfortable Idaougnidif
atmosphere of quartzite climbing can often mask rocks are going to fall if your leader pulls
the seriousness of many of the longer routes. The something off.
quality of the quartzite varies from immaculate to
dangerous, and unless care is taken it is possible to Granite Afantinzar
stray quickly onto worryingly unstable ground. On Samazar
the majority of faces, however, the rock is amazingly (South of the Ameln Valley, including Tafraout, Tazka, Aouguenz
sound and almost always better than it looks from Aguerd Oudad and the Painted Rocks). Tagzene
below. In general, it is only the very pale orange Tafraout itself sits in a bowl of granite tors which Tagmout
rock that crumbles, but care should always be provide an eclectic mix of bouldering, sport, and
taken with large blocks which could be loose in any esoteric trad. The molten rock which made this History
situation. Much of the climbing is up steep pitches on spectacular landscape cooled slowly, creating large Index
excellent positive jugs – how they remain attached abrasive crystals that aren’t always well attached, and
is a mystery, but the quartzite always seems to be this, combined with a lack of weathering, has created
stronger and more solid than you’d expect. the rather crumbly rock that is a feature of Tafraout
granite climbing. Intense heating during the summer
 Steve Broadbent on Soul and Romance (E4) – Immaculate further worsens the problem, creating an abundance
quartzite in Corners Gully at Dragon Rock, Samazar (page XXX). of exfoliating flakes of all sizes.
In amongst the acres of poor rock, however, are
Photo: Lina Arthur isolated pockets of excellent climbing on good
quality granite. Indeed, no trip to Tafraout is complete
without at least one day exploring this remarkable
landscape, in which you’ll find some of the best slab
climbs and best off-width cracks that the Anti-Atlas
have to offer.

32 INTRODUCTION | Ethics Area Map Page 4

Area Map Ethics

Crag Despite it being 20 years
Selector since the first British pioneers
began to open up the
Intro quartzite crags of the Anti-
Atlas, Jebel el Kest is still a
The ‘developing’destination. Today,
Climbing a huge variety of climbing styles,
ever-increasing visitor numbers,
How to and the proximity to Tafraout’s granite sport
Use crags create the potential for conflicting ethics in
the region, particularly given the lack of historical
Suggested  Oops! A classic Anti-Atlas benightment. The Saharan sun goes foundation. Quartzite provides an ideal medium for
Climbs down very quickly, leaving behind a long, cold night for which adventurous traditional climbing, with a combination
shorts and T-shirts are entirely inappropriate... of solid natural protection and challenging un-
protectable walls which will provide obvious
Tafraout STRATEGY temptation to bolters.
Granite In recent years a number of bolted lines have
Routes vary from friendly single-pitch outings to appeared on quartzite crags, and although these
Anergui long full-day mountain adventures. Whilst walk-ins have predominantly been single pitch cragging
are generally quite short, descents can be long and venues, alarming reports of a bolted line up the
Ameln involved, and almost impossible to locate in the dark. Lion’s Face itself hint at a potential conflict in the
Valley Overnight temperatures at 2000m drop nearly to future. To date, these isolated bolted routes have
Tarakatine freezing, and all parties setting off on long routes been established with an apparent disregard for – or
Pass should carry spare clothing, food, head torches, lack of knowledge of – the ‘local’ethic: in some cases
and a survival blanket at the very least. Unplanned accidentally retro-bolting existing traditional climbs.
Sidi M’Zal bivouacs are neither pleasant, nor uncommon. Although it is impossible to dictate how people
Some mobile phone coverage is evident, so it’s enjoy the natural environment, climbers are strongly
Jebel Taskra always worth carrying a phone in your pack in case encouraged to help maintain the adventure trad
medical assistance is required, though no organised ethic in the Anti-Atlas and preserve its unique appeal.
Idaougnidif mountain rescue service exists. A selection of useful Please do not place bolts on the quartzite of Jebel
numbers can be found on page XXX. el Kest or Jebel Taskra, either for protection or
anchors.
Afantinzar On the granite tors around Tafraout and Aguerd
Oudad, on the other hand, bolting has been the
Samazar norm since the earliest days of climbing in the region.
Climbers placing bolts on the granite are encouraged
Aouguenz to bolt responsibly, using modern stainless bolts.
Power drills are currently acceptable in the area, so
Tagzene there should be no excuse for tiny holes and unsafe
bolts. Likewise, if you are going to bolt a route then
Tagmout please bring enough hangers – there has been a
trend for stealing hardware from neighbouring
EQUIPMENT routes: a practice that spoils the enjoyment of this
area for future visitors.
History Protection is generally good, and pitches can be quite
long, so a comprehensive rack is advisable. In general, Fixed Anchors
the rock is well suited to camming devices, and a full
Index set, with some doubles, will be required on longer On popular crags a number of shared rappel routes
routes. A set of nuts and a few hexes will complete have been equipped with steel cables or chains in
a typical Anti-Atlas rack, along with extra slings and order to avoid ever-increasing amounts of nylon
a good range of extenders and quickdraws. ‘tat’ which is unsightly and does not fare well over
the summer in the Saharan Sun. This work has been
funded and supported by Climb-Tafraout and the
local population.

Area Map Page 4 Access & the environment | INTRODUCTION 33

The Environment Area Map

It goes without saying that all visitors to the Anti- Crag
Atlas have a responsibility to preserve the natural Selector
landscape, as this magnificent and fragile climbing
environment will not last long if we do not respect Intro
and look after it. Morocco is a relatively poor,
developing Arabic country, and those unfamiliar The
with such cultures are urged to take heed of advice Climbing
given in the introductory chapters of this guide. By
doing so we will help to preserve the unique appeal NEW ROUTING How to
of Tafraout’s climbing, its stunning landscape, and Use
important relations with the native Berber people There is still scope for new-routing in the mountains
for whom these hills have provided an existence for around Tafraout, and for those with the relevant skills Suggested
the best part of 3000 years. and experience this can be one of the most enjoyable Climbs
• Respect the customs and religion of the local aspects of a trip to Tafraout. Be warned, however –
the quartzite is dangerously loose in places, and Tafraout
people. there’s no one to rescue you if it all goes wrong. Granite
• Do not drop litter, even though there may Climb within your capabilities, take care out there...
And please, no bolts on the quartzite! Anergui
already be ‘local’ rubbish lying on the If you do climb a new route in the region, please
ground. record it in the Livre d’Escalade which is kept Ameln
• Please don’t leave toilet paper at the foot behind reception in the Hotel Les Amandiers. This Valley
of the crag. This has become a particular fascinating document is the definitive source of route Tarakatine
problem at Ksar Rock. information and makes an interesting read on a rest Pass
• Try not to damage ancient terraces or walk day in Tafraout. For climbers staying on the north side
across cultivated land. who do not get a chance to visit Tafraout, a smaller Sidi M’Zal
• Keep noise to a minimum and adopt a ‘low- ‘book of climbs’ has been started at the Kasbah
impact’ approach at all times. Tizourgane. Jebel Taskra
Details of routes should also be entered online at
ACCESS www.climb-tafraout.com, or emailed to [email protected] Idaougnidif
oxfordalpineclub.co.uk for inclusion in future editions
Many of the crags described in this guidebook of this guidebook. Afantinzar
lie within, or are approached via land that is used
by the rural Berbers for agriculture. As well as this, www.climb-tafraout.com
several crags overlook settlements and make use of
private tracks for access. At the time of publication Samazar
the local people are very friendly towards climbers,
and no access problems have been reported. In order Aouguenz
that this remains the case, all climbers are asked to
adopt a low-impact approach when climbing near

habitation.

Tagzene

Tagmout

History
Index

1189

Map PagbeurW4nian3sgtesite
1100421183 TAFRAOUT GRANITEOUADOU BASI

1300  Tafraout
1200 (Tafraoute)
1100

1100
1000

R
Area Map ADDITIONAL ROUTES 1100

Crag Isolated routes described on page XXX: 1000
Selector
1 Flor de Luna (F7a+) Aday Campsite School R107
Peak 1000 Medical centre
2 El Tocho (F8a+/b) Mosque

Intro 3 Lovers’ Crack (F8a) 1353 Sports centre Touareg AHmoatenAldrLgieearsnsino Maison Troc
4 Rumpus (E4) Maison
The
Climbing School
How to

Use R104 Campsite
Suggested
Climbs A. YELMO AnciHenotuBseerber Tazga 1 C. FLAKE Imyane BOULDERING
CARPANTONICO QUAKE p46
J. ELEPHANT ROCK
p44
PTafraout BOULDERS p55
PGranite
El Lanchar N’TIgarhgirant ToTcahz2okade D. BLACK Elephant
WALL p46 Rock
Aday CKS Valley Hayt
V A L L E Y 1100Wall Black Mharres
Anergui Black

PAmeln Yelmo
PValley Carpantonico
B. TAZKA’S 2nd1sTtaDzkoam’se E. HIGH 1000 Wa3ll
DOME p45 SIERRA p48
Napoleon’s
Tazka’s
2nd Dome Hat 
Tarakatine BOULDERING

Pass I. AGUERD AOguudeardd 
Sidi M’Zal SLABS p54
P

Jebel TaAskrfaella Ouday BOULDERING
Idaougnidif
R107 to Bear right onto 14st Tor K. 2nd TOR1100
Tafraout bricked road BOULDERING p56
P P 2nd Tor
Afantinzar AGUERD OUDAD 3rd Tor
DETAIL
egraph Pole RO BOULDERING
Crag BLUE
Samazar School L. 3rd TOR
BOULDERING p57

Aouguenz Napoleon’s Hat Amalu Wall Aousift
Tagzene (big granite tor!) (Boulder)
Tagmout TouDlzoouukht
P F. AMALU
Painted Rocks WALL p50

Small shop G. PAINTED ROCKS p50

History Go through main P H. EFLODNE p51
square to narrow
1248
track by shop

Index 1300 1200
Pass through gate...

this dirt track leads to
Blue Rocks Valley

1285

Map Page 43 TAFRAOUT GRANITE 43

GRANITE those who pass through Tafraout and don’t climb on Area Map
the granite, at least once, are missing out on one of
The stunning granite landscape around Tafraout the town’s ‘experiences’! Crag
came under the scrutiny of climbers as early as 1962 All of the granite climbing and bouldering can be Selector
and has seen sporadic development ever since. In reached easily by car or on foot from Tafraout, and
1987, Dennis Gray’s comparison of Tafraout to Joshua is generally located very close to the road. Intro
Tree or Hampi fired the oasis into the limelight,
sparking new interest from European sport-climbers, TO BOLT OR NOT TO BOLT? The
and almost certainly planting the seeds for the Climbing
development of the quartzite in the early nineties. Patchy attempts to develop Tafraout as a sport How to
Whilst British teams concentrated their efforts on the climbing destination have left the granite tors
mountain crags of Jebel el Kest, climbers from Spain, around town with a bewildering smattering of Use
France and Italy were enjoying an altogether more bolted lines amongst perfectly protectable crack Suggested
‘relaxed’ adventure on the spectacular tors closer climbs. This is in part due to the crumbly nature of
to town, creating an eclectic mix of sport routes, the granite here, as whilst individual routes can be Climbs
esoteric trad climbs, and crumbly-death horror of very high quality, it is rare to find a whole crag
shows, as well as some excellent top-grade climbing. worth developing. In this guide we have attempted Tafraout
In more recent times, a number of excellent low- to pick out a representative selection of what is Granite
grade multi-pitch granite adventures have been available.
established, and routes such as Freeway, Flake Quake Today, the local ethic is that bolts are acceptable on Anergui
and High Sierra now provide fun, low-commitment the granite in order to create worthwhile routes.
‘rest day’activities that will suit even the most ardent With so much high quality ‘adventure climbing’ Ameln
quartzite and trad fanatics. Likewise, a handful of easy available on the quartzite, the granite experience Valley
bouldering circuits provide worthwhile sport for an is all about accessibility, and whether it’s on hard Tarakatine
evening or short day. single pitch test-pieces, or easy multi-pitch romps, Pass
Unfortunately, the granite here is extremely coarse- bolts can add a lot to that experience.
grained, sees little weathering, and suffers from In order to give a better idea of the style of routes, Sidi M’Zal
relentless exfoliation in the searing summer heat. the following symbols are used throughout this
This has, in some places, created loose, crumbly rock chapter to indicate the required protection: Jebel Taskra
that most climbers will not enjoy. As such, Tafraout
granite climbing did develop something of a bad The route is predominantly bolted. That said, Idaougnidif
reputation, but whilst it is true that there are some SPORT this is not a sport climbing destination, so
very crumbly routes here, isolated pockets of good please treat with caution! Afantinzar
rock present the opportunity for some brilliant
climbing, and the pitches included in this chapter The route requires a traditional rack of nuts Samazar
are all worth seeking out. In fact, it is fair to say that TRAD and cams for protection and belays.

The route has bolted sections but will require
MIXED traditional protection to supplement.

Aouguenz

Napoleon’s Hat Tagzene
Tagmout

Aguerd Oudad

History
Index

Aguerd Oudad
turn-off

44 TAFRAOUT GRANITE | Yelmo Carpantonico Map Page 43

Area Map A YELMO CARPANTONICO

Crag Drive from Tafraout: 5 minutes
Selector Shade Families Hitch Roadside Walk-in: 10 minutes

Intro An impressive slab, just to the south of Aday,
offering some of the best and most popular sport
The routes in Tafraout. The slab faces southeast and gets
Climbing lots of sunshine during the morning, when it can
How to feel rather scorching. Approach easily in about 10
minutes from roadside parking at the south end
Use of the village.
Suggested
1. Condemor F5+ CRACK TRAD
Climbs
The diagonal crack at the left side of the short wall.
Tafraout
Granite Miguel Ángel Lozano & Juan Luis Monge, 1996.

Anergui 2. Kie-13 F6c+ SLAB SPORT

Ameln Very nice climbing up the wall to the right of the diagonal
Valley crack.
Tarakatine
Pass Miguel Ángel Lozano & Juan Luis Monge, 1996.

Sidi M’Zal 3. Salan Pradery F7a SLAB SPORT

Jebel Taskra Tricky slab climbing on excellent rock.

Miguel Ángel Lozano & Juan Luis Monge, 1997.

4. Detrás del Chador F6b+ SLAB MIXED  James Kniffen on the popular slab of Fender Stratocaster (6c).

Two pitches up the slab, starting just right of the palm tree Photo: Jeremy Jones
and gradually easing towards the top.
5. La Pestañi me Enniqueló F6c+ SPORT
Miguel Ángel Lozano & Juan Luis Monge, 1996.
A challenging little pitch up sandy crimps.
Idaougnidif
Miguel Ángel Lozano & Juan Luis Monge, 1997.

6. Fender Stratocaster F6c SLAB SPORT

Afantinzar The right-hand line is a very worthwhile and frequently
attempted climb on good crimps.
Samazar
Miguel Ángel Lozano & Juan Luis Monge, 1997.

Aouguenz 12 4 Yelmo
Tagzene Carpantónico
3
AM 10m

Tagmout

History
Index

5
6

Map Page 43 Taska’s 2nd Dome | TAFRAOUT GRANITE 45

Tazka’s Area Map
2nd Dome
Crag
10m Selector

Photo: Marco Marrosu Intro

The
Climbing

How to
Use

3 Suggested
Climbs

1
2

Tafraout
Granite

B TAZKA’S 2nd DOME 2) 45m (5.4) Runout padding up bobbly granite. Belay at the Anergui
right side of a cave.
Drive from Tafraout: 5 minutes 3) 30m (5.3) Walk up right then mantel up the steep left Ameln
Shade Families Hitch Roadside Walk-in: 10 minutes wall. Walk up, then to the right, to finish up the final bolted Valley
slab. Descend by continuing up over the summit and down
Tazka’s Second Dome is a magnificent little the north ridge. Tarakatine
viewpoint, worth a visit on short days. The parking Pass
area is reached in five minutes from Tafraout, and Steve Broadbent & Anna Piotrowski, October 2013
the walk-in and descent are similarly short.
Take the left fork in Tazga village and continue as 2. Shardana E2 5b SLAB TRAD Sidi M’Zal
the track deteriorates. Soon it makes a sharp left Jebel Taskra
turn just after a large compound on the left. Ample 110m. Good climbing up the tempting seams right of Idaougnidif
parking is available on the right. From the parking, Freeway. Afantinzar
follow a rough track in a southwesterly direction, 1) 30m (5b) Climb up and traverse right with difficulty to Samazar
crossing on to the south side of the stream bed. gain the obvious crack.
The crag is located on the right-hand side a short 2) 50m (5a) Follow the diagonal crack to gain the easy slab
distance beyond. beneath the roof. Follow this to belay under the roof.
3) 30m (4c) Avoid the roof on the right-hand side then
continue up the shallow corner above to the summit.

 DESCENT: Head up right over the fine little summit, then descend Marco Marrosu & Francesco Ruiu, April 2015

the northeast ridge a short way until it is possible to scramble down on 3. Bees Attack VS 4c SLAB TRAD Aouguenz
the left (north) side of the ridge. From easy slopes below, a path bears Tagzene
right back towards the parking area. Since the descent comes out close to 130m. Follows more broken ground to the right of the main Tagmout
the parking, it is advisable not to leave anything at the base of the route. slabs, providing a good adventure at this grade.
1) 45m (4c) Climb slabs to gain a belay just left of a large History
jutting block overhang.
1. Freeway 5.4 2) 35m (4b) Move up right behind the block and climb up left
SLAB SPORT of the corner to a belay by a bush.

125m. Enjoyable easy padding up the left side of the south 3) 50m (4c) Continue up slabs to gain a final corner, which
face, with fine views from the summit, particularly at sunset.
Too easy to be called a sport route, Freeway is best described leads to the summit ridge.

as an easy multi-pitch route with bolts: great for rest days, Marco Marrosu & Francesco Ruiu, April 2015

kids and bimbles! The route and belays are fully equipped,
requiring 10 quickdraws.
1) 40m (5.4) Start close to the arête at the left side of the Index

dome. A few tricky slab moves gain easier ground, then an
easy traverse up right to a belay.

46 TAFRAOUT GRANITE | Flake Quake Map Page 43

AreaMap C FLAKE QUAKE D BLACK WALL

Crag Drive from Tafraout: 5 minutes Drive from Tafraout: 5 minutes
Selector Shade Families Hitch Roadside Walk-in: 10 minutes Shade Families Hitch Roadside Walk-in: 15 minutes

Intro Driving south from Tafraout the narrow valley The Black Wall has long been Tafraout’s most
opens out just before reaching the village of popular sport climbing venue, thanks to a selection
The Aguerd Oudad. The following route climbs a of good mid-grade routes and the fact that it stays
Climbing prominent series of curved flakes on the south- in the shade for much of the day. Abseil anchors
facing hillside on the right (west) side of the road have recently been re-equipped with 10mm
How to at this point. It is approached easily from roadside stainless anchors, making this a much less serious
Use parking in approximately 10 minutes. venue than in the past.
Two approaches are possible, both starting from
Suggested 1. Flake Quake HVS 4c WIDE roadside parking on the Aguerd Oudad road
Climbs beneath Flake Quake. Walk southwest along a dry
95m. The two tempting flake corners provide a fun wide- riverbed beneath Flake Quake, then turn right up
Tafraout a boulder-choked valley (awkward) to reach the
Granite crack adventure up the south-facing slabs; walkable from crag on the left. A longer but technically simpler
Tafraout, and highly recommended. Some hollow rock requires approach can be made by continuing along the
Anergui care but does not detract from this very popular climb. Big dry river bed beneath a rock wall on the right, then
cams helpful. cutting back up rightwards to gain the shoulder on
Ameln 1) 30m (4b) The lower flake crack is a good warm-up for antics the east side of the crag.
Valley higher up. Exit left to a good ledge.
Tarakatine 2) 10m (4b) Scramble up to beneath the wide corner crack, The Black Wall
Pass which gives an excellent pitch. Walk up 50m, then scramble
up to the base of the imposing right-facing corner. 1. Luces del Desierto F6b UNCHECKED CRACK TRAD
Sidi M’Zal 3) 25m (4c) Layback the corner with increasing difficulty. Pull
left into the groove at the top and bridge up to a wobbly belay A short hand to finger crack on the southeast face.
Jebel Taskra on the chockstone above the sandy crevasse!
4) 30m (4c) Continue left and make a tricky move into the 2. Black Wall Arête F5 MIXED
continuation groove. This is easier than it looks, and leads to
a fine finish. 35m. Start around the corner on the left, then follow the

Steve Broadbent & Sarah Pemberton, November 2012 left-most bolted line on the northwest face.

Idaougnidif Descend to left 3. Unnamed F5 MIXED

Afantinzar 35m. Good climbing up the crack and bolted wall above.

4. The Black Wall F6b SPORT

Samazar Walk up right 35m. The centre of the black wall is a local classic, and one

of Tafraout’s must-do routes, weighing in at about E2 5c. The
direct start has now been bolted, and the climb is equipped
Aouguenz for a convenient abseil descent.

Tagzene 5. Black Wall Crack F5+ CRACK MIXED

35m. The prominent hand-to-fist crack gives a first class
Tagmout pitch, and one of the best granite cracks in the region. Start

with difficulty, following the crack to vegetation. Step left
here onto the exposed face for a fluttery, bolted finale. Tricky
HVS 5b for the discerning trad climber.
1
History 6. Unnamed F6a+ SPORT
Index Flake Quake
35m. A good but intimidating climb, with some dirt and the
10m odd run-out. The crux is at the third bolt.

7. Unnamed F5 MOSSY CRACK TRAD

35m. The cracks to the right are rather traditional.

Map Page 43 Black Wall | TAFRAOUT GRANITE 47

35m 35m Black Wall Area Map

1 SHADE 15m Crag
Selector

Intro

The
Climbing

How to
Use

Suggested
Climbs

2 9 Tafraout
67 10 Granite

34 8 12 Anergui
5
11 Ameln
Valley

Tarakatine
Pass

Sidi M’Zal

8. Danza Kuduro F5 SPORT Transharania Jebel Taskra

35m. A good, varied climb that is fully protected with This is a huge boulder with an ancient shelter at it’s Idaougnidif
modern 10mm bolts. Start left of the argan trees and go up base, located on the opposite side of Black Wall Valley. Afantinzar
to a huge flake. Climb up the left side of this, then step right It holds a single, excellent route: Samazar
to a bold slabby finish. Aouguenz
13. Transaharania E4 6a
Steve & Katja Broadbent, December 2016. CRACK TRAD

9. Unnamed F6a MIXED A beautiful hands and layback crack, accessed via a tricky
overhanging start.
35m. Start up a crack between the two argan trees, then
follow the somewhat scary line of bolts on the left. Palan Martin, 2003.

10. Unnamed F6a MIXED Transaharania Tagzene
Tagmout
35m. The right-hand crack behind the argan tree leads to PM 10m
a bolted slab.

11. Unnamed F6b+ SPORT

35m. A delicate and crimpy start right of the flake leads to
a horizontal break. Easier climbing above to finish as for the
previous two routes.
History
12. Unnamed F5 MIXED 13 Index

This short route is located on the northwest face, up a layback
crack (one bolt) to a lower-off.

48 TAFRAOUT GRANITE | High Sierra Map Page 43

Area Map E HIGH SIERRA 1. Southwest Corner Moderate SLAB TRAD

Crag Drive from Tafraout: 10 minutes 120m. This straightforward climb follows blocks and then
Selector Shade Families Hitch Roadside Walk-in: 10 minutes a slabby corner/groove up the southwest front of the tor.

Intro This slabby granite tor is located due west of 2. High Sierra 5.7 SLAB MIXED
Napoleon’s hat, mid way between the Black Wall
The and the Aguerd Slabs. It is possible to scramble up 120m. The obvious line up the huge flake gives a fun climb
Climbing to the summit plateau round the back left side, or with great variety and is a classic of its type. The route is
How to more directly from the front right, although the partially bolted, but requires a set of medium to large cams
summit block itself can only be reached by for pitch 2. Start by scrambling in from the left side to gain a
Use climbing. gearing up area beneath a large block right of a prominent
Suggested The shortest approach is from parking as for the pinnacle.
Aguerd Slabs. Turn off the R107 into Aguerd Oudad, 1) 30m (5.7) Climb a short blocky groove on the right to gain
Climbs following the brick road through the centre of the a left-slanting ramp along the top of the large block. Follow
village and leaving the main square via the small this up left to the arête, where a difficult move (crux) gains
Tafraout track next to the shop, as shown on the map on the slab above. Follow this more easily to a belay.
Granite page XXX. Follow this track out of the village, 2) 30m (5.6) Move left and climb the excellent rising
passing a gate and on into Blue Rocks Valley. undercut flake, protected by medium to large cams. Belay
Anergui Just before the first wadi crossing a smaller track on natural gear at a block.
turns off on the right. Follow this and park at its 3) 45m (5.4) Climb the slab past a single bolt to regain the
Ameln end, next to a large sandy wadi. The tor is visible monster flake. Follow this to where it bends horizontally
Valley approximately 1km to the northwest. right, then step up left (bolt) and trend up left to a belay.
Tarakatine 4) 15m (5.6) Walk up round the left side of the summit block
Pass View from the approach, to climb a bolted pitch up its northwest side.
close to Aguerd Slabs
Andi Turner making the most of Transharania (E4 6a) as storm
Sidi M’Zal clouds threaten the quartzite of Jebel el Kest. 

Photo: Pete Wilson

Jebel Taskra  DESCENT: High Sierra is equipped for a 3-pitch abseil descent from
Idaougnidif
bolted anchors. Alternatively it is possible to walk off the back left side.

Afantinzar

Samazar 15m
55m
Aouguenz Alternative
Tagzene descent: walk-off 30m
Tagmout down back left side
Pinnacle
1
2

Approach from left
across slabs

History

Index

High Sierra

10m

Map Page 43 High Sierra | TAFRAOUT GRANITE 49

Area Map
Crag

Selector
Intro
The

Climbing
How to

Use
Suggested

Climbs

Tafraout
Granite
Anergui
Ameln
Valley
Tarakatine
Pass
Sidi M’Zal

Jebel Taskra

Idaougnidif

Afantinzar

Samazar

Aouguenz

Tagzene

Tagmout

History

Index

54 TAFRAOUT GRANITE | Aguerd Slabs obvious slabs (about 10 minutes walk)

Map Page 43

Area Map Aguerd 20
Slabs 21
Crag
Selector 2 19 22
18 23
Intro 13 14
15 17
The slabs
Climbing
How to 1 huge 12
boulder
Use
Suggested 16

Climbs 11

Tafraout 6 78 Approach
Granite 5 from N
4 parking S
Anergui 3
2 9
Ameln
Valley 1 10
Tarakatine
Pass I AGUERD SLABS BOULDERING 1. Kwazi F3+ SLAB BOLD SPORT

Sidi M’Zal Drive from Tafraout: 10 minutes 60m. Climb the white streak, with a steepening at half
Shade Families Hitch Roadside Walk-in: 10 minutes height. The top section is very easy indeed.
Jebel Taskra
A nice family-friendly circuit with mostly easy Steve, Katja & Lydia Broadbent, January 2016.
Idaougnidif problems and a couple of tough cruxes. There
are also a handful of very easy routes on the slabs 2. Captain Barnacles F3 SLAB BOLD MIXED
Afantinzar above, suitable for kids. From Tafraout take the road
south towards Aguerd Oudad, turning off into the 85m. A pleasant easy climb up the central corner system. A
Samazar village along a narrow bricked road. Pass through couple of medium-sized cams may be useful to supplement
the village square and take a narrow track leaving the spaced bolts.
Aouguenz the ‘far left-hand’ corner of the square. This track 1) 40m. Follow the corner / flakes to a belay above large
soon makes a sharp right-hand bend and leaves perched flakes.
Tagzene the village at a gate. Take the first small track on 2) 45m. Go up leftwards on very easy ground to the tip of
the right, just before the main track crosses a small the small overlap above. Surmount this on it’s left side (cam
wadi. Park at the end of the drivable track, then runner useful) and finish up the slab above.
walk in a westerly direction towards obvious slabs
(about 10 minutes walk) Steve, Katja & Lydia Broadbent, December 2015.
23 problems between Font 3 and Font 5+.
3. Zuma F3+ SLAB BOLD SPORT

63m. The white streak up the centre of the main slab is a
fun route for the kids.
1) 31m. Bold but easy climbing up to a belay in a depression.
2) 32m. Continue up the white streak to a single bolt
protecting a steeper move up past a hollow flake.
 DESCENT: Descent from the routes can be made by scrambling
Steve, Katja, Ben & Lydia Broadbent, January 2016.
down either side, or by abseil – the 63m abseil down Zuma is now
equipped to be done in two pitches.

Tagmout 63m

60m

History 3
Index
Aguerd 2
Slabs
1 huge
10m boulder

Map Page 43 Elephant Rock Bouldering | TAFRAOUT GRANITE 55

5 N J ELEPHANT ROCK BOULDERING Area Map
4 S
Drive from Tafraout: 10 minutes Crag
building 1 23 10 Shade Families Hitch Roadside Walk-in: 2 minutes Selector
concrete
wall 6 Although it has a slightly ‘urban’ feel to it, this is Intro
dry an excellent roadside circuit, with lots of varied
riverbed 7 and fun problems on good quality granite. There’s The
plenty of flat open space, making it suitable for kids, Climbing
Towards 8 and there’s also some hard(ish) sport climbing to be How to
Tafraout 9 had on Elephant Rock itself. Approach by driving
south out of Tafraout towards Aguerd Oudad. Use
11 Shortly after passing Flake Quake on the right, and Suggested
12 before reaching the Aguerd Oudad turn-off, look
for an odd circular building on the opposite side Climbs
13 of the riverbed, by some concrete flood defences.
14 Park anywhere near here, and the problems are Tafraout
reached in two minutes. Granite
15 39 problems between Font 3 and Font 5+.
16
Anergui
17
Ameln
18 Valley
20
Tarakatine
19 Pass
21
26

Sidi M’Zal

22 23 25 Jebel Taskra
24 27 Idaougnidif
ruin

28 Elephant Afantinzar
Rock Samazar
traverse
Aouguenz
29 30
Tagzene
31

walls

Tagmout

32

dry
riverbed

History

Index

Towards 33
Aguerd
Oudad 36 34
37
35

38 39

u-Magour 2013

58 ANERGUIThe Sanctuary Maison Rouge Amelu Wall Amelu 2000 Map Page 59
East 1900 Jebel Tizgui

Lower
Eagle
all Crag 2100 2240
2100 2101
1200 1800 2298
Eagle Crag 2200
Anergui Canyon 21020000 Tizgui Plateau
2047 1900 2134
Area Map 1800

Tizgui Col TA G D I C H T

Crag 2121 D. JEBE21L6e9 l KEST p66
Selector
North Peak MEADO
Intro JEBEL EL KEST 2343
West Ridge Afa-n-Tmezgadiwine

2200 The 2C3a7ir5ns Ancient dwelling 2215 Tagdicht Crags
2000 2100 Climbing
ANERGUI MEADO South Ridge Great Ramp Tagdicht 1800
How to Anergui path Buttress
Use W S
Waterfall 1700
Cairns

South Col

2292 C. ANERGUI UPPER p63 Angel Peak 2000 1407  Tagdicht
Suggested 1900
1800
Climbs 1700 Tourist
1600 path
Anergui Upper 2236 1500
Crag

2213 1400

Tafraout B. ANERGUI LLoOnWg ECRragp61 Cairn 1300
Granite
Anergui Col

Anergui Black Crag Pinnacle TAGDICHT GORGEAnergui Lower
Crag
1620Anergui Drainage 1700
1985

Ameln Anergui  1700 1800 1808 Lightning
Valley 1600 Crag
Children’s playground Playground Crag
Tarakatine Mosque 130014001500
Pass20001900
A. ANERGUI PLAYGROUND p59 Sanglier Slab Dent d’Isabel

Pinnacle

Sidi M’Zal Thyme Bu

1600 Tamaloucht Crag

Jebel Taskra 1500 1200 Communications m
1100
Idaougn1id7i0f 0 1400 Blue Spring Tamaloucht
1600 Crag 1000

Afantinza1r 500 13001200 Cheshire  Spr. Asguin
1400 Cheese Anammer
Anergui Road Crag
Samazar 1300
Aouguenz Waterfall Crag B 1000 Palmerie 900
Crag BX
Tagzene Tidli Ait Oumgas

Aglz

Igordan

Ta1g1m00out 900 VALLEY Ighaln
1000
Mosque
History
Ait Taleb Palmerie N
Index
Mosque E L Asoul

Tanalt Road A M

900 1100
1000
7.9km from Ameln junction BASIN

1253

1183
ou M’lal

1000 1100
900

Map Page 59 Anergui Playground | ANERGUI 59

ANERGUI A ANERGUI PLAYGROUND Area Map

This isolated high basin, situated just below the Drive from Tafraout: 40 minutes Crag
2375m summit of Jebel el Kest, is historically one of Shade Families Hitch Roadside Walk-in: 2 minutes Selector
the main climbing centres of the Anti-Atlas, and as
soon as you round the final hairpin into the village This fun little wall sits right above the sports pitch, Intro
you’ll see why. Indeed, in this one small valley there is next to the road just before the car park at the top
an almost daunting amount of rock, including some of the village. It holds a handful of nice single- The
of the biggest crags and longest mid-grade routes pitch climbs, and although they heat up quickly Climbing
the range has to offer. As such, this is a destination in the afternoon sun, shade (along with various
that should be considered a high priority for parties playground amusements) is available on the How to
climbing on the south side of the range. opposite side of the road. The crag is particularly Use
The Berber name‘Anergui’literally means‘the angels family friendly, as young ones can entertain
from above’ – an appropriate name for this unique themselves in the playground while the grown- Suggested
place, nestled high in the mountains and only recently ups climb... Climbs
accessible by road. The locals, who are incredibly
welcoming despite the remote setting of their village,  DESCENT: Either scramble easily leftwards or set up a 40m abseil Tafraout
have been keen to promote Anergui as a rock-climbing Granite
destination, though their efforts have unfortunately down the line of Acca Dacca.
placed the village at the forefront of a recent bolting Anergui
controversy. 1. Playground Arête VS 4c STEEP
Access is via a recently-concreted road that snakes its Ameln
way up the hillside above Igordan, at the west end 50m. The prow up the left side of the wall gives the first of Valley
of the Ameln Valley. The steep, single-track road has several brilliant pitches hereabouts. Start from bushes behind the
few passing places, big drops and sharp bends, and shelter, at the foot of the descent gully, and climb the technical Tarakatine
is something of a worthwhile experience in its own wall with considerable interest. There is a possible belay on a Pass
right. Nervous passengers are advised to stay away... large terrace above, from where the route finishes magnificently
or at least close their eyes! through overhangs in the narrow buttress left of the gully.
From a spacious parking and turning area at the very
end of the road, a seemingly endless expanse of rock Steve Broadbent & Anna Piotrowski, October 2013
is visible – ample variety from single-pitch roadside
amusements to intimidating long adventures. Most 2. Playground Groove MVS 4b Sidi M’Zal
of the climbs here receive lots of sunshine, but due Jebel Taskra
to the high altitude it is often still possible to climb 50m. This route starts up a prominent black streak to gain the Idaougnidif
here on warm days.
For those more interested in some spectacular easier groove above. Finish up the rather loose gully beyond, or
hill-walking, Anergui is one of the popular more interestingly up the face to the left.
starting points for an ascent of Jebel el Kest,
and an exploration of the trails up to and Steve Broadbent & Adam Jorna, October 2013
beyond the upper crag will reveal some
memorable views across Tafraout and Afantinzar
the Ameln Valley.
Samazar

Aouguenz

Tagzene

Tagmout

“Ever on up...”Anergui was a new History
playground in 1998, and, as ever, Joe Brown Index
was on hand to have some fun.

Claude Davies collection

60 ANERGUI | Anergui Playground Map Page 59

Area Map Playground
Wall
Crag
Selector PM 2m

Intro

The
Climbing

How to
Use

Suggested
Climbs

Tafraout 1
Granite 2
3
Anergui
4
Ameln 5
Valley
67 8
Tarakatine
Pass 9

Sidi M’Zal 3.Tapestry of Nations HVS 4c STEEP 6. Urban Rock HS 4b
Jebel Taskra
Idaougnidif 50m. Good, varied climbing, giving one of the most 40m. Another nice climb, this time starting from the wall at
Afantinzar absorbing roadside routes at Anergui, despite a rather the edge of the sports pitch. Climb a crack in the lower slab to
Samazar contrived line. Best climbed as two pitches with a belay on gain a niche, then exit up the right-hand corner crack.
Aouguenz the mid-height terrace.
Steve Broadbent & Cameron Hall, October 2011
Tagzene
Tagmout 1) 30m (4b) The technical wall to the right of the black streak 7. Art Attack HVS 5a STEEP

History is bold to start, and leads with increasing satisfaction to the 40m. Brilliant climbing up the steep cracked-prow to the
Index terrace.
2) 20m (4c) Move up left into the bottom of the upper gully right, giving an excellent little pitch. Climb the blankest part
of the lower slab to gain steep cracks up the overhanging prow.
of Playground Groove. From here, pull up rightwards and make This is overcome via a sequence of superb athletic moves which
a scintillating traverse amongst the overhangs... keep going
as far as you can, and don’t look down! you’ll wish went on a little longer.

Steve Broadbent & Tim Culwick, October 2013 Steve Broadbent & Cameron Hall, October 2011

4. Angry Nature HS 4a 8. The Ocker Rocker HS 4b

40m. The slabby wall has some very nice climbing. 40m. The corner to the right has a surprisingly awkward

Steve Broadbent & Victoria Nockles, October 2013 move to escape left from under the overhangs, and is no push-
over at this grade. High feet, odd rock-overs, or other weirdness
5. Acca Dacca Severe may be required...

40m. After a rather rattly start (bold and unprotected), this Cameron Hall & Steve Broadbent, October 2011

pleasant climb has some excellent moves through the small 9. Live Wire VS 4b
overlap, before finishing up the buttress to the left of a wide
crack. 40m. The prow up the right side of the wall is an excellent

Cameron Hall & Steve Broadbent, October 2011 climb that gets more difficult and altogether more emotional
towards the top. It finishes at an electric cable. Bzzzzp.

Steve Broadbent & Cameron Hall, October 2011

Map Page 59 Anergui Lower | ANERGUI 61

B ANERGUI LOWER 1. Artful Dodger VS 4c ADVENTURE Area Map

Drive from Tafraout: 40 minutes 300m. A good climb up the Central Buttress. Start in the Crag
Shade Families Hitch Roadside Walk-in: 15 minutes bay to the right, climbing up leftwards to gain the crest of Selector
the buttress. The original way finishes up the left side of
The enormous Lower Crag dominates the village the buttress, but a more direct finish, Fagin’s Variation, was Intro
of Anergui, towering a thousand feet straight up recorded in 2005.
from the houses. Not surprisingly, this was the first The
crag hereabouts to see attention from climbers in Joe Brown & Pete Turnbull, 2002. Climbing
the late 1990s, being an irresistible objective when How to
seen from the village. 2. Polish Direct HVS 4c ADVENTURE
In reality, the routes here tend to involve some Use
rather rambling climbing and do not necessarily 250m. The steep pillar up the back wall of the main bay Suggested
follow strong natural lines, but if you’re looking has an adventurous reputation. Several parties have reported
for adventure then you’ve come to the right place. difficult climbing on suspect rock, though the route remains Climbs
a popular objective.
DESCENT:The easiest descent is to continue to the summit of the Tafraout
Jacek Skrzyoczynski & Andrzej Łoś, December 2004. Granite
Lower Crag, then head north towards a col between the Lower and Upper
crags. From here, a good path heads down leftwards beneath the Upper 3.Talk Armada VS 4b ADVENTURE Anergui
Crag, staying close to the rocks on the right-hand side. Do not be tempted
to descend too early down a broad gully close to the end of the Lower 280m. The right wall of the main bay provides some Ameln
Crag, but instead follow the path past a steep wall on the right, climbing excellent climbing on good rock, and remains in the shade Valley
slightly over a small col. Beyond this, the path zig-zags steeply up a large, a little longer than most routes hereabouts. It features a low Tarakatine
steep col – turn left down a small path before this steep ascent. This bears crux, with large amounts of easy climbing up the fine upper Pass
left, passing below a small rock tower, then the bottom of the gully, and wall, and is one of the best routes of its grade at Anergui.
on to the village. Start below a groove leading up and right. Sidi M’Zal
1) 30m (4c) Climb up to a flake crack, step right, then move
Lower up into a hanging groove. Continue past a ledge and up a
Crag Left steep wall to belay below a corner.
2) 25m (4a) Climb the corner for 8m, then pull up left and
PM 15m follow a subsidiary groove to another belay.

Jebel Taskra

Idaougnidif

Afantinzar

Samazar

Aouguenz

Tagzene

Tagmout

Pinnacle Buttress 2 Main Wall History
1 Index

Central Buttress

4
3

84 AMELN VALLEY | Mosque Valley Slabs Map Page 68

Area Map E MOSQUE VALLEY SLABS MOSQUE VALLEY
SLABS p84
Crag Drive from Tafraout: 10 minutes
Selector Shade Families Hitch Roadside Walk-in: 50 minutes Belle Vue PALM TREE
Buttress GORGE p86
Intro This attractive wall is clearly visible from the Ameln
Valley, sitting on the right (true left) bank of Mosque 29°46.0N
The Valley above Old Oumsnat. The wall faces south,
Climbing gets all the sun there is going, and with a sheltered Old
How to position can become something of a heat-trap in Oumsnat
hot weather.
Use The approach up Mosque Valley is best made Mosque
Suggested from Old Oumsnat. Take the first of the Oumsnat
turnings from the Ameln Valley road, then follow 20 Cemetery P
Climbs a right fork after crossing the first major riverbed. PP
This leads to ample parking amongst some isolated 008°57.0W
Tafraout houses in between New and Old Oumsnat. From Park here for Auberge
Granite here, take a reasonable path towards the hillside, Mosque Valley Lekst
descending to cross a major riverbed and then
Anergui climbing steeply to the highest of the ancient 42 New
buildings. From this point a good path traverses Oumsnat
AAmmeellnn left into the gorge – follow it to the stream and Ameln Valley
VVaallleeyy continue for about 75m until a vague trail cuts back road
Tarakatine up right alongside a concrete water-leat. This leads
Pass up the left (true right) side of the gorge, passing
Crag O on the left, from where the slabs are clearly
visible about 10 minutes further up the gorge.

Sidi M’Zal 1. Left Roof E1 5b Scale 1:25 000
Jebel Taskra 0m 200m 400m 600m 800m 1km
Idaougnidif 35m. This route climbs the left-hand weakness though the
Afantinzar 2. Zoo Station HVS 4c
prominent roofs at the left side of the wall. Below the fault
in the roof are twin V-cracks – start up the right-hand of the 50m. Pleasant climbing up the side of the black streak to
two cracks, left of a black streak. Climb to a terrace, then go
diagonally left to the fault in the roof. Climb through this and break through the mid-height overlap.
continue to the top.
James Strongman, B.Wagner, Graham & Ruth Everitt, February 2008.
Brian Davison, Paul Wood, December 2014.

Samazar Mosque 11
Aouguenz Valley Slabs

Tagzene 50m

Tagmout

History 10
Index 9

7 8
6
45

12 3

Map Page 68 Mosque Valley Slabs | AMELN VALLEY 85

3. The Real Thing E2 5b Area Map
Crag
50m. Super climbing above the prickly bushes, heading up
Selector
to the right side of the overlaps. Intro
The
James Strongman, B.Wagner, Graham & Ruth Everitt, February 2008.
Climbing
4. Even Better than the Real Thing E2 5b How to

50m. Another excellent climb. Start from a prickly pear and Use
Suggested
follow the left-slanting break before launching straight up
the wall above. Climbs

James Strongman, B.Wagner, Graham & Ruth Everitt, February 2008. Tafraout
Granite
5. One Tree Hill E2 5b Anergui
Ameln
50m. The centre of the wall is gained via a small tree and Valley
Tarakatine
followed with interest. Pass
Sidi M’Zal
James Strongman, B.Wagner, Graham & Ruth Everitt, February 2008.
Jebel Taskra
6. Bullet in the Blue Sky E3 5b
Idaougnidif
50m. Difficult and rather bold climbing up the wall
Afantinzar
immediately right of the small tree.
Samazar
James Strongman, B.Wagner, Graham & Ruth Everitt, February 2008.
Aouguenz
7. Wild Horses E2 5c
Tagzene
50m. Good climbing, directly up the centre of the face from
Tagmout
a shallow left-facing corner.
History
James Strongman, B.Wagner, Graham & Ruth Everitt, February 2008.
Index
8. Helter Skelter HVS 5a

50m. A slightly more amenable proposition up the wall to

the right. Start up a rightwards-curving undercut to gain the
mid-height ledge system.

James Strongman, B.Wagner, Graham & Ruth Everitt, February 2008.

9. Mysterious Ways HVS 5a

50m. Another worthwhile climb, taking the vague groove

right of the mid-height ledges.

James Strongman, B.Wagner, Graham & Ruth Everitt, February 2008.

10. Achtung Baby E1 5a

50m. Climb up to the right side of a small overhang at the

right end of the wall. Finish straight up the wall above.

James Strongman, B.Wagner, Graham & Ruth Everitt, February 2008.

11. Black Spot HS

30m. At the right side the angle of the wall eases and the

slab contains a prominent black spot near its centre. Start right
of a tree and climb through the black spot to the top.

Brian Davison & Paul Wood, December 2014.

12. Zigzag Very Difficult

30m. A weaving line up the right side of the wall, where it

merges with the col, provides the easiest way up the crag. Can
be used as a descent by the competent...

Brian Davison & Paul Wood, December 2014.

James Strongman on Wild Horses (E2 5c), Mosque Valley Slabs 

Photo: Graham Everitt

86 AMELN VALLEY | Palm Tree Gorge Map Page 68 & 84

Area Map F PALM TREE GORGE  DESCENT: Frommostoftheroutesitispossibletodescendeasilyto

Crag Drive from Tafraout: 10 minutes the left, passing above Entrance Wall to reach a short down-climb just left
Selector Shade Families Hitch Roadside Walk-in: 15 minutes of the first routes. For a number of climbs, including those on the opposite
side of the gorge, the quickest descent is by abseil – a fact that is usually
Intro A superb little climbing ground, with plenty of obvious on a first visit.
easily-accessible routes, good rock, and a lovely
The setting right on the edge of Oumsnat village. Entrance Wall
Climbing Palm Tree Gorge is the narrow gorge that cuts into
How to the hillside directly above the old village, and for This short but excellent south-facing slab lies just
climbers looking for a break from the longer routes outside the entrance to the gorge on the left (true
Use of Jebel el Kest it is an excellent and relaxing venue right) bank, overlooking the path up to Belle Vue
Suggested with routes to suit most abilities. Buttress.
The gorge continues high into the mountains, but
Climbs the climbing is focused around the short buttresses 1. Bahrain Difficult BOLD
of clean solid rock which form the entrance to the
Tafraout ravine, where magnificent date palms provide an 20m. Pleasant but unprotected climbing up the cracked-rib
Granite attractive backdrop and welcome shade. at the left side of the slabby wall.
Oumsnat is a notoriously complicated village to
Anergui navigate through. Thankfully, however, most paths Steve Broadbent (solo), February 2012.
will get you to the right place eventually, so a detailed
AAmmeellnn description of the approach is of limited value. The 2. Rum Keg Very Difficult
VVaallleeyy closest parking is in the centre of New Oumsnat,
Tarakatine at the Auberge Lekst (see map on page 84). Take the 20m. The broken rib immediately left of the black slab has
Pass narrowing track between the final houses and into
trees beyond, from where a myriad of small paths some nice moves on big holds.
Sidi M’Zal then wind their way towards the extensive ruins of
Old Oumsnat. The outflow from Palm Tree Gorge Steve Broadbent (solo), February 2012.
Jebel Taskra passes beneath a prominent white mosque, and a
couple of good paths run alongside it, converging on 3. Rockin’ Zebra VS 4b SLAB
Idaougnidif the left (true right) bank of the stream just below the
entrance to the gorge. At this point the path begins 25m. An attractive climb up the hairline ‘non-crack’in the
Afantinzar zigzagging steeply up the slope to the left towards centre of the black slab. Climb the slab then move up left until
Belle Vue Buttress, but a small path leads off to the it is possible to traverse out right across the steep sidewall with
Samazar right into the narrow gorge entrance. Entrance Wall is plentiful gear and exposure.
clearly visible on the left at the point where this small
path enters the gorge. Steve Broadbent & Will Benfold, February 2012.

4. Fact or Friction VS 4c

25m. Superb climbing up the vague groove in the right side

of the slab leads to some bold moves beneath
the roof. Traverse left here, avoiding the flake
ledge beneath for as long as you can!

Will Benfold & Steve Broadbent, February 2012.

Aouguenz

Tagzene Belle Vue
Tagmout Buttress

Palm Tree
Gorge

History
Index

Map Page 68 & 84 Palm Tree Gorge | AMELN VALLEY 87

Entrance Area Map
Wall
Crag
15m Selector

Intro

The
Climbing

How to
Use

Suggested
Climbs

1 Tafraout
2 Granite

Anergui

Ameln
Valley

Tarakatine
Pass

Sidi M’Zal

Jebel Taskra

Idaougnidif

Afantinzar

5. Tumbleweed HS 4b 45 Samazar
9 Aouguenz
25m. The obvious groove to the right of the slab has a fun Tagzene
3 68
chimneying finish. 7

Will Benfold & Steve Broadbent, February 2012.

6. Trader Vics Severe 8. TNT E5 6b Tagmout

25m. Another worthwhile climb that is better than it looks. 30m. The next seam to the right is a notch harder. Continue History
Index
Take cracks just right of the right-hand rib, accessed from a up over a bulge to finish more easily up the ramp to the right.
low start to the right.
David Gray & Vanessa Wills, February 2014.
Steve Broadbent & Will Benfold, February 2012.
9. Terry Le Fronde E2 5b
7. To Close to Zero E4 6b THIN
30m. Start 2m left of Salif Kieta, where crossed palms touch
30m. The thin seam up the smooth, steep wall takes an
assortment of tiny gear, and leads with difficulty to easier the wall. Go up to a left-facing overhanging flake, stepping
climbing above. left at its top to avoid cactus. Climb up onto a slab, finishing
rightwards up the groove to a belay.
Vanessa Wills & David Gray, February 2014.
Vanessa Wills & David Gray, February 2014.

88 AMELN VALLEY | Palm Tree Gorge Map Page 68 & 84

Area Map Touareg Tower To the right are doubleV-cracks above a small pool.
Crag
Immediately right of Entrance Wall is the entrance 18. Original Route VS 4c
Selector to the gorge itself. Touareg Tower stands above a
Intro pleasant shady clearing which provides an ideal 30m. An intimidating climb, taking the arete left of the ‘V’
The ‘racking up’ or lunch spot...
notch.
Climbing
How to Chris King & Barry Clarke, October 2004.

Use 10. Salif Keita E2 5b PRICKLY 19. Howzat VS 4c
Suggested
25m. The euphorbia-capped groove and wall to the left of 30m. Gain the left-hand ‘V’as for the Original Route. From
Climbs Scimitar.
here take the crack on the right before finishing up the crack
Tafraout Graham & Ruth Everitt, February 2008. on the left.
Granite
Anergui 11. Scimitar E3 6a THIN Geoff Somers & Ron Kenyon, October 2004.
AAmmeellnn
VVaallleeyy 25m. Start at the slanting undercut and move left into a thin 20. Lizard Lunch HVS 5a
Tarakatine crack. Climb up this before finishing up the wall to the right.
Pass 30m. The groove right of Howzat.
Sidi M’Zal Chris King & Barry Clarke, October 2004.
Paul Donnithorne & Don Sargeant, April 2016.
Jebel Taskra
12. Baba Maal E2 5c 21. Hideous Kinky E2 5c
Idaougnidif
30m. Starts just right of Scimitar, below a short stepped 30m. The crackline in the wall right of Howzat leads to some
Afantinzar
groove in the overhang. Climb directly up the wall to the steep, poor rock. Move right here, around the arête, and cross
Samazar groove, which leads with difficulty to the wall above. Move a slab to finish up a corner.
slightly left and go up the wall to finish left of the flake crack
Aouguenz of Farouk’s Fundaments. A short crack and final bulging block Egg & Ruth Everitt, March 2014.
round off an excellent climb.
Tagzene
Graham & Ruth Everitt, February 2008.
Tagmout
13. Farouk’s Fundaments VS 4b Touareg
History Tower
25m. The wide crack to the left of the pinnacle is a
Index AM 15m
justifiably popular climb. Move left just below a bush
and finish up a flake crack on the front face.

Ron Kenyon & Geoff Somers, October 2004.

14. Surgical Reverso E1 5a BOLD 19
18
25m. Swarm up the right-hand side of the pinnacle
before attacking the blank wall above. Finish up the 21
groove as for Jarrad.
17
John Lunch & Ed Luke, January 2014. 14

15. Crocodile Dundee VS 4c BOLD

30m. A great little climb. Start just left of the pool
and traverse up right with a difficult move to gain the
crack up the right side of the pinnacle. Move right onto
the excellent bold rib to join Jarrad for a steep finish.

Steve Broadbent & Will Benfold, February 2012.

16. Jerad HVS 5a

35m. An excellent direct line starting just above the

pool. Climb directly up the crack system to cross the
corner system of Jarrad below bulging flakes. Climb up
the flakes, then step right and pull up onto the final
arête of Original Route.

Jordan & John Phethean, February 2014.

17. Jarrad MVS 4b 11 16
12
30m. Super climbing up the fine corner above the 13

pool. Follow the slabby corner to a challenging finish 15
up the steep crack above.

Geoff Somers & Ron Kenyon, October 2004.

Map Page 68 & 84 Palm Tree Gorge | AMELN VALLEY 89

Red Wall 25. Moulin Rouge E2 5b Area Map

Up and right of the double V-cracks is a high wall 40m. A good, challenging climb that takes a left-facing Crag
of S-shaped cracks. This is known as Red Wall and corner at the right side of the Red Wall. Start at a fig tree in Selector
is home to a number of harder wall climbs. the bed of the gorge, 20m right of Berber Buttress.
Intro
22. Berber ButtressHVS 5a 1) 20m (4c) Step off the fig tree and climb the wall and
bulging groove to the belay ledge. This pitch is not visible The
40m. The prominent arête to a ledge at 2/3 height. Move on the topo. Climbing
2) 30m (5b) Climb awkwardly rightwards into the groove How to
slightly right from here and finish up the wall above. and follow it to finish up the wall above.
Use
Ron Kenyon & Geoff Somers, October 2004. Suggested

23. Cabaret E2 5b Chris King & Barry Clarke, October 2004. Climbs

40m. The corner to the right leads to a belay on the ledge. 26. Pasties and Scones E3 5c STEEP Tafraout
Granite
From here go up another corner then traverse 5m rightwards WIDE
Anergui
to the base of a crack. Climb this over a bulge and finish up 35m. The daunting wide crack above the right-hand
end of the ledge should be reserved for those who think
the wall above. overhanging off-width cracks are a good thing. Start from

Chris King & Barry Clarke, October 2004. the V-notch and battle your way to a hiding place under the

24. Spagetti Western HVS 5b STEEP overhang. It is usual to spend some time here, summoning

30m. An audacious outing up the centre of the Red courage for the fine off-width finale.

Wall. Start by scrambling up through a V-notch to gain a James Strongman, Ian Wilson & Tom Leppert, February 2010.

prominent ledge (This initial section is not visible on the
topo below...) The ledge can also be reached by climbing
the first pitch of Moulin Rouge. Start just left of Ameln
a prickly pear and climb the central crack Valley
with a short corner to finish.
Tarakatine
Pass

Sidi M’Zal

Jebel Taskra

Idaougnidif

Afantinzar

24 25 26 Samazar
Aouguenz

Tagzene

Tagmout

Berber History
Buttress & Index
Red Wall
22 23
AM 15m

126 TARAKATINE PASS Map Page 118

Area Map 12m

Crag
Selector

Intro

The
Climbing

How to
Use

Suggested
Climbs

86

84 85
82 83
Tafraout
Granite 80 81
79

Anergui Cosmos 84. Adrian Von Trip Stamp Donk V.Diff
Ameln
Valley This is the last main buttress before a section of 7m. The groove and hairline crack to the right gives another
Tarakatine lower rocks leads to the taller Skyline Buttress.
Pass pleasant pitch.
Sidi M’Zal 79. Rib Tickler Severe
Jebel Taskra Steve Broadbent (solo), March 2011.
Idaougnidif 7m. The rounded rib is accessed from the left side, and
Afantinzar 85. George is a Chav HS 4a
Samazar provides a pleasant, if rather indirect climb.
Aouguenz 7m. Some nice moves up the next crack to the right,
Tagzene Steve Broadbent (solo), March 2011.
Tagmout although it’s something of an eliminate.
80. Cosmos HS 4b
History Caroline Culwick, March 2011.
Index 7m. The fine crack up the front face is one of the better
86. Colin The Caterpillar Severe
pitches hereabouts, gained from a steep start.
7m. Tricky moves up the short wall gain a large ledge, from
Steve Broadbent (solo), March 2011.
where bobbly twin cracks lead easily to the top.
81. Adequate Pink HS 4a
Caroline Culwick, March 2011
7m. The central groove is a slightly easier proposition

than its neighbour, but still has some difficult moves to get
established.

Caroline Culwick (solo), March 2011.

82. The Pale Blue Dot Very Difficult

7m. The short face to the right, accessed via a steep

V-groove in the lower black.

Steve Broadbent (solo), March 2011.

83. Shark Bait VS 5b

7m. A sit-start boulder problem up the fin, finishing up

the wall above.

Hamish Legge, April 2012.