Ecrins Selected Ice Climbs

Alpe d’Huez
La Grave
Vallon du Diable
Laurichard
Vallouise
Cervières
Fournel
Freissinières
Aiguilles
Ceillac
Crévoux
Les Orres

Oxford Alpine Club

ÉCRINS

Selected Ice Climbs

1ST EDITION | By Steve Broadbent

ÉCRINS

Selected Ice Climbs

By Steve Broadbent

Published by the Oxford Alpine Club
www.oxfordalpineclub.co.uk
ISBN for this volume 978-1-913167-06-6
©2020 Oxford Alpine Club
All uncredited images and design by Oxford Alpine Club

Cartography by GeoGraphics
Some maps based on source data from openstreetmap.org
PLEASE READ THIS!
Ice climbing is an inherently dangerous activity and users of this guidebook should have a full understanding of the risks involved. The
areas described in this book include adventurous destinations that are not suitable for novice climbers except under the supervision of an
experienced guide. Climbing any of the routes described in this book will require relevant experience, skills and careful judgement, and the
author and publisher accept no liability for any injury or damage caused to, or by, climbers or property whilst using this guidebook.
This guidebook is a collection of route information compiled in good faith, but some details remain unchecked and may therefore be
inaccurate. Users should not treat it as a replacement for good 'mountain sense'.
The inclusion of a climb in this guidebook does not guarantee that you have the right to access or climb it.
ALL RIGHTS RESERVED
Other than brief quotations for use in reviews, or personal use on a climb, no part of this publication may be reproduced in any form
without written permission from the publisher. Nor should any text, images, or maps be used for commercial products without permission
and acknowledgement of the publisher. The authors and publisher accept no responsibility for any injury or loss caused as a result of using
this guidebook. Images and text contained within this book do not necessarily represent the views or opinions of the Oxford Alpine Club.
Front cover photograph: On the crux cigar of Sombre Héros (WI5) at Ceillac (photo by Aileen Robertson).

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

As ever, production of this guidebook would not have been possible without the assistance of many people, and my thanks go to everyone
who has been involved in the project. Firstly, massive thanks to Aileen Robertson and Leanne Common for their assistance and patience
during the research, as well as for some fun adventures on (and frequently o !) skis. Additional material was generously supplied by Tony
Moody, Tommy Harris, Eric Herring, David Grange, Mark Grist and Phil Carpenter, and I'd like to thank them all for their contributions.
Of course I also owe huge gratitude to all of the pioneer climbers and previous guidebook writers who not only opened up this climbing
paradise to the world, but did such a great job in documenting their endeavours.
Finally, thanks to Katja Broadbent for her support and continued work as proofreader.
Steve Broadbent, October 2020



Overview Map Page 6 Contents | INTRODUCTION 5

CONTENTS Contents

Overview and Area Summaries 7 Area Map
Introduction
Guidebook Philosophy Overview
A Brief History
When to Visit 9
Getting to the Écrins
Where to Stay 9 Intro
Skiing Opportunities
Equipment 11 Grades
Objective Dangers
Other Guidebooks 13
Grades 13 How to Use
How to Use This Guidebook
Recommended Venues and Routes 15 Suggested
The Climbing Areas: Areas

Alpe d'Huez 17
La Grave
Vallon du Diable 18
Combe de Laurichard
Vallouise 19 Alpe
Cervières 20 d'Huez
Fournel
Freissinières 23 La Grave
Aiguilles
Ceillac 24
Crévoux
Les Orres Diable
Route Index
26

Laurichard

29 Vallouise
41
67 Cervières

79 Fournel
83
88 Freissinières

95 Aiguilles
121
147 Ceillac

157 Crévoux
163
167 Les Orres

175

Daniel Kim making the most of the sunshine on the cigar of Davidoff (II/4+) Index
on the north side of the Fournel Valley. Page 119.
Photo: Mark Grist

6 INTRODUCTION | Area Map Overview Map Page 6

Contents Alpe ALPE D'HUEZ page 29 N Écrins Regional Overview
Area Map d'Huez VALLOUISE page 83
Overview 0 5km 10km 15km 20km
Col du Lautaret
Intro
Le Bourg- La Grave Bardonecchia
Grades d'Oisons
D1091
How to Use
Suggested Les Deux LA GRAVE page 41 D1091 A32
Oulx
Areas Écrins National ParkAlpes
Vénosc La Meije LAURICHARD page 79 Le Monêtier-les-Bains
Alpe 3983
d'Huez
La Grave La Ville Serre La Salle-les-Alpes SS24 SR23
Barre des Chevalier Cesana
Diable DIABLE page 67 Écrins Chantemerle Torinese

La Bérarde Mont St-Cha rey N94
Pelvoux
4102 Chambran Montgenèvre

BRIANÇON

3943

Ailefroide N94 Cervières

Vallouise St-Martin-de- AIGUILLES page 147

FOURNEL page 95 Queyrières CERVIÈRES page 88 Le Roux
L'ARGENTIÈRE-
LA-BESSÉE
Aiguilles Abriès

Château
Queyras
Freissinières La Roche-de-Rame Ville Vielle
Arvieux

FREISSINIÈRES page 121 St-Crépin Le Grand
Molines-en- Queyras
Laurichard Queyras Queyras 3114
Regional
Orcières Mont-Dauphin D902

Vallouise Guillestre Ceillac Park

Cervières CEILLAC page 157

Fournel Le Bâtie-Neuve N94 Les Claux
Freissinières Chorges EMBRUN

GAP Epinasses La Chalp

Crots Crévoux Saint-Paul- ITALY
Savines- sur-Ubaye
le-Lac CRÉVOUX page 163
FRANCE
Les
Orres
Aiguilles LES ORRES page 167
Ceillac Tallard

Crévoux Clermont Lyon Albertville MONT N Alps Overview
Les Orres Ferrand Chambery BLANC
Milan Venice
Index Aosta
 Bologna
GRAN
Grenoble PARADISO



Turin

Area covered by ITALY Genoa
this guidebook
Avignon
FRANCE
Monaco

Overview Map Page 6 Overview | INTRODUCTION 7

OVERVIEW Within this area are hundreds, if not thousands, of Contents
The Écrins and Queyras regions are home to an icefalls scattered amongst majestic alpine peaks, Area Map
incredible variety of ice climbing, spread out over peaceful remote valleys and bustling ski resorts. Overview
a relatively large geographic area centred around Most of these icefalls are clustered into the main
the towns of Briançon and L'Argentière-la-Bessée. valleys described in this guidebook, each of which Intro
The region extends as far as Le Bourg d'Oisons has its own unique charm and character, each
and Grenoble in the north, and Les Orres and o ering something di erent for the visiting ice Grades
Embrun to the south. climber.

How to Use

Valley or Area Routes WI1-WI2 Suggested
= Downhill skiing opportunities Routes WI3 Areas
= Cross-country skiing opportunities Routes WI4
= Ski touring opportunities Map and Routes WI5 Area Summary
Introduction
Routes WI6-WI7
page Conditions
Popularity

1. ALPE D'HUEZ p29 4 17 37 9 1 The highest ice climbing in the range, with very reliable conditions. Alpe
Easily accessible, sunny climbing with a bar at the bottom! d'Huez

2. LA GRAVE p41 3 20 33 16 12 Famous for its long mid-grade routes. Lots of variety, with sunshine La Grave
and shade available. Conditions vary greatly by area.

3. VALLON DU DIABLE p67 4 4 32 8 3 The secret valley! Brilliant, remote routes in a spectacular setting, best Diable
approached on skis. Very prone to avalanches.

4. COMBE DE LAURICHARD p79 0 4 4 0 0 A great spot for some short low-grade routes, often in condition when Laurichard
other places have thawed. Approach on foot or skis.

5. VALLOUISE p83 2 8 3 2 4 An esoteric collection of adventurous climbs amidst spectacular Vallouise
scenery in the heart of the Écrins.

6. CERVIÈRES p88 1 2 3 9 6 Very popular cragging spot thanks to lots of well-bolted mixed and Cervières
dry-tooling routes.

7. FOURNEL p95 0 19 38 37 14 Big, wild, and adventurous – home to some of the best and most Fournel
famous climbs in the Écrins.

8. FREISSINIÈRES p121 2 11 18 34 59 A paradise of impressive hard climbs. Very popular thanks to relatively Freissinières
short approaches when the road is open.

9. AIGUILLES p147 1 10 21 15 5 Easy roadside routes. Apart from the ice park, which gets busy, you're Aiguilles
unlikely to see many other people here.

10. CEILLAC p157 0 3 2 2 4 France's number one spot for low-grade multi-pitch ice! Superb Ceillac
routes, 20 minutes from the car... and correspondingly busy.

11. CRÉVOUX p163 0 2 1 3 2 A very attractive valley, perfect for combining some cross-country Crévoux
skiing with ice climbing.

12. LES ORRES p167 0 0 3 2 8 Some excellent multi-pitch test-pieces. Not always in condition, but Les Orres
when fully formed they are well worth a visit.

Index

8 INTRODUCTION Overview Map Page 6
The development of bolted 'sport ice' has led to a
Contents surge in popularity of the routes at Bois le Reblanc,
Area Map Cervières. Changement de Slip (II/M7), page 93.
Overview
Photo: Steve Broadbent
Intro
Grades
How to Use
Suggested
Areas

Alpe
d'Huez
La Grave
Diable
Laurichard
Vallouise
Cervières
Fournel
Freissinières
Aiguilles
Ceillac
Crévoux
Les Orres

Index

Overview Map Page 6 INTRODUCTION 9

Contents

Area Map
Overview

Intro

Grades

How to Use

Suggested
Areas

Alpe
d'Huez

La Grave

Mont Pelvoux towers above Ailefroide and Vallouise – the Écrins national Diable
park is well known for its stunning alpine scenery. It is also surrounded Laurichard
by some of the very best ice climbing the Alps have to offer...
Photo: Steve Broadbent

INTRODUCTION GUIDEBOOK PHILOSOPHY Vallouise
Cervières
Situated close to the Italian border in southeast There are thousands of icefalls scattered across the Fournel
France, the Écrins and Queyras regions o er some Écrins and Queyras regions, many of which form so Freissinières
of the best valley icefall climbing in the Alps. infrequently or lie in such remote valleys that they Aiguilles
The area is centred around the towns of Briançon hardly ever see any ascents. Instead of providing
and L'Argentière-la-Bessée, renowned for their de nitive coverage of these routes, this guidebook Ceillac
spectacular alpine scenery crowned by the mighty describes only the main climbing areas – valleys in Crévoux
peaks of Le Meije, Mont Pelvoux and the Barre des which there are high concentrations of relatively Les Orres
Écrins. Surrounding these summits are the world- accessible icefalls which form frequently and are
famous ice-climbing centres of La Grave, Diable, likely to be in condition most winters. Index
Fournel, Freissinières and Ceillac – all legendary The aim of the guide, therefore, is to provide
destinations to which climbers ock each winter to clear and concise information to climbers visiting
enjoy some of the most spectacular, accessible and the area on a winter climbing holiday, helping
reliable ice climbing in Europe. them to choose a venue and route to suit their
Whether you're looking for a short x close to the requirements, then locate the climb with the
road or a world-class adventure on a huge alpine minimum of di culty.
face, these valleys have plenty to o er throughout Detailed pitch-by-pitch descriptions have
the full spectrum of grades, from the easiest of generally been omitted, except when they add
easy to some of the hardest routes in the world. important information, as they have limited value
Add in to the mix easy access from major cities once embarked upon an ice climb.
such as Grenoble, Lyon, Geneva and Turin, and Symbols have been applied to each route to
you've got a true paradise of alpine winter ice indicate how reliably it forms, the method of
climbing. descent, and the type of protection required –
these are explained in detail on page 24.

10 INTRODUCTION Overview Map Page 6

Contents Climbing through the roof of Le Passage
(II/M8/5+) on the north face of the Tête
Area Map de Gramusat, Freissinières. Page 133.
Overview Photo: Tony Moody

Intro

Grades

How to Use

Suggested
Areas

Alpe
d'Huez
La Grave
Diable
Laurichard
Vallouise
Cervières
Fournel
Freissinières
Aiguilles
Ceillac
Crévoux
Les Orres

Index

Overview Map Page 6 INTRODUCTION 11

Contents

Area Map
Overview

Intro

Grades

How to Use

Suggested
Areas

Alpe
d'Huez

La Grave

Top-roping Tomber Mais Pas Jouer (II/M5) at the Diable
popular ice crag of Bois du Reblanc above Cervières. Laurichard
This crag has become popular in recent years Vallouise
thanks to a good selection of well-bolted mixed
climbs and dry-tooling routes. Page 92.
Photo: Steve Broadbent

A BRIEF HISTORY As in most parts of the Alps, the sport of waterfall Cervières
ice climbing, was slow to catch on and it was Fournel
In the early 19th century, before the annexation not until the 1980s that the Écrins rst became Freissinières
of Savoy to France, the Barre des Écrins was known as a major centre for this type of climbing. Aiguilles
identi ed as the highest mountain in France, This reputation was sealed with the publication Ceillac
at 4102m. It was around this period that of Godefroy Perrou's Cascades de Glaces, which Crévoux
geographers began taking a greater interest in opened people's eyes to the waterfall ice Les Orres
the mountains, and the Écrins region became climbing in the Oisans region between Grenoble
known for its stunning scenery and high summits. and La Grave. Index
In 1860, Savoy became part of France, and along Further south, the Troussier brothers, Pschitt
with it the higher peaks of the Mont Blanc Massif. Perrier and Christophe Moulin began developing
Not long afterwards, in June 1864, The Barre des routes at Ceillac, adding bolted belays to create
Écrins was rst climbed by A.W. Moore, Horace low-commitment ice climbs that immediately
Walker and Edward Whymper, accompanied by became popular, though it was not until their
the guides Michel Croz and Christian Almer via discovery of the Fournel valley that climbing in
the Whymper Corridor and loose ridge above. the region really took o .
The direct ascent of the north face came six years Over the coming years an explosion of new
later, when William Coolidge cut a remarkable routes in Fournel and neighbouring Freissinières
500 steps straight up the icy slope. came alongside improvements in equipment
The region's second major peak, La Meije, proved and techniques. Today these two valleys alone
to be a more challenging proposition and was the are home to more than 250 ice climbs, helping to
last of the main Alpine summits to be climbed. cement the Écrins' reputation as one of the great
Its rst ascent was made in August 1877 by Pierre ice-climbing centres of Europe.
Gaspard and Emmanuel Boileau de Castelnau.

12 INTRODUCTION | Getting to the Écrins Overview Map Page 6

Mâcon A40 Genva Martigny
A6 Bourge-en-
E15 Bresse Airport 
A40 GENEVA

ANNECY Chamonix

LYON  Lyon Saint A41 Mont Aosta
Exupéry Aix-les-Bains Blanc
Airport Albertville

A43 CHAMBERY Cogne A5
E25

E711 Val-d'Isère

A7 Grenoble  A41 A43 Ivrea
E15 Alpes Isère
Airport E712
E70
GRENOBLE
Turin Caselle
Airport 
A49 Alpe d'Huez
E713 Vizille A32 E70
La Grave Oulx
VALENCE
A51 D1091 Serre TURIN
Chevalier Sestriere

La Mure Barre des BRIANÇON SS23 A55 A21
Écrins Pinerolo A6

Die Argentière-
la-Bessée

MONTELIMAR Alba

Gap Guillestre

Embrun

A7 Area covered by See overview map CUNEO
E15 Nyons this guidebook on page 6 D900

Orange Borgo San
Dalmazzo
A51
Carpentras E712

A9 Digne-les-
Bains

AVIGNON Apt

Castellane MONTE
Fréjus CARLO

A7 NICE
AIX-EN- 

PROVENCE A8 Cannes
E80
 N
MARSEILLE A57
TOULON
St-Tropez Getting To The Écrins

0 5km 10km 15km 20km

Overview Map Page 6 Getting to the Écrins | INTRODUCTION 13

WHEN TO VISIT Snow chains are often required to get Contents
up to the car park. Visitors without
The Écrins ice-climbing season generally starts them sometimes face a long walk! Area Map
around mid-December. Ascents in November have Overview
been recorded, but conditions before Christmas
are often quite thin and many cascades will not yet Intro
be fully formed.
January and February are normally considered Grades
to be the best months for climbing here, though
mid-season mini thaws can occur at any time How to Use
throughout the winter.
By March the days are longer and temperatures Suggested
start to rise as the season draws to a close. In Areas
good years climbing conditions last into April or
exceptionally May, particularly on higher crags
such as Alpe d'Huez and the Combe de Laurichard.

i Conditions chains do not always come as standard with cars Alpe
rented from agencies in downtown Grenoble. d'Huez
For up-to-date condition reports, check out the La Grave
excellent conditions.ice-fall.com website before By Car Diable
your trip. Europe's excellent network of motorways make Laurichard
it perfectly possible to visit the region by car, Vallouise
GETTING TO THE ÉCRINS either from other European climbing spots, or Cervières
Excellent transport links make the Écrins one of from the UK. The drive from Calais may not be the Fournel
the most accessible ice climbing centres in Europe, most enjoyable way to spend a day, but can be Freissinières
with trips by air, car, bus or train all being perfectly completed in approximately 11 hours. Aiguilles
feasible from throughout Europe. If you are considering driving your own car to the Ceillac
Flights & Car Rental Alps then make sure that you've got a suitable set Crévoux
The two most popular options for ights are of snow chains before your journey – these can be Les Orres
Grenoble and Turin, although it is also possible to essential for reaching some of the climbing areas.
y into Lyon or Geneva. Index
Grenoble (Alpes Isère) airport is located 40km west By Bus
of the city. It was developed as an international Several companies provide international coach
airport for the 1968 Winter Olympics and today services between London and Grenoble. From
provides very convenient access to the ski resorts Grenoble it is possible to rent a car or travel by bus
of the Écrins region. The tiny terminal has limited or train to Briançon.
facilities and rental cars here book up quickly – if
you're too late then it will be necessary to get By Train
a shuttle bus to Grenoble Station (a 45 minute The Écrins are an excellent destination for those
journey), where ample car rentals are available. For wishing to avoid air travel, as it is possible to get
shuttle bus details visit www.actibus.com rail tickets from London right through to Briançon
From the airport it is approximately 2hr30 by car to in the heart of the region. In many cases this o ers
Briançon, or 1hr45 to La Grave. a comfortable and hassle-free alternative to ying,
Turin also provides a viable alternative, with comparable costs and journey times.
with a greater choice of ights, airlines and Rail passengers should, however, check
times throughout the year. From Turin, it is current baggage restrictions as they can be
approximately 1hr45 to Briançon, or 2hr30 to La more restrictive than for aircraft hold luggage.
Grave via the E70 and SS24. Indeed, several climbers have had di culties in
Whichever option you choose, it is worth checking transporting ice axes on both Eurostar and SNCF
that your rental car comes with snow chains – services.
whilst this is normal at Turin and Grenoble airports, Cars can be rented from downtown agencies in
Grenoble or Briançon.

Drills, Exercises20& Games0

Developing climbing
technique through
the use of games,
exercises and
drills.

The ultimate
guide to coaching
indoor climbing

www.oxfordalpineclub.co.uk/coaching-bible

Overview Map Page 6 Where to Stay | INTRODUCTION 15

WHERE TO STAY Argentière Contents
Area Map
The climbing described in this guidebook is spread La Grave  Laurichard  Vallouise  Cervières  Fournel  Overview
out over a fairly large area, so there's not really Freissinières  Aiguilles  Ceillac  Crévoux  Les Orres 
one central location in which ice climbers base Intro
themselves. Formally L'Argentière-la-Bessée, this small town is
In good years, when conditions are reliable, it is an excellent base for enjoying the entire Écrins and Grades
common for people to spend an entire visit either Queyras regions, being centrally situated for both.
in the north of the region, climbing at La Grave The town has a couple of rather average hotels How to Use
and Alpe d'Huez, or further south, climbing in and a few bars and restaurants, but there is plenty Suggested
Fournel, Freissinières and Ceillac. When conditions of self-catering accommodation available, as well
are doubtful, however, being based somewhere as a number of useful shops. Areas
central (such as Briançon or Argentière) gives By car, the resort is about 1hr15 to La Grave, 30
maximum exibility to pick out the best climbing. minutes to Fournel and 1hr to Ceillac. Alpe
The main bases are as follows, though it is possible d'Huez
to nd self-catering accommodation throughout Ceillac La Grave
the region on websites such as Airbnb.co.uk
Fournel  Freissinières  Aiguilles  Ceillac  Crévoux  Les Orres  Diable
Alpe d'Huez
A small resort with plenty of character. The
Alpe d'Huez  La Grave  Diable  Laurichard  climbing here is amongst the best and most
reliable in the Alps, particularly in the lower grades.
This is a major alpine skiing resort with all the However, there's not that much of it, and it's a fair
facilities one would expect. Although few people drive to get anywhere else when you've done all of
come to the Écrins just to climb here, easy airport the routes...
transfers mean that it is possible to get to the By car, the resort is about 2hr to La Grave, 1hr to
resort by public transport and enjoy a week of ice Fournel and 1hr15 to Les Orres.
climbing and skiing without needing a car.
By car, the resort is about 1hr to La Grave, 2hr15 to Embrun Laurichard
Fournel and 2hr30 to Ceillac. Vallouise
Fournel  Freissinières  Aiguilles  Ceillac  Crévoux  Les Orres  Cervières
La Grave Fournel
The town of Embrun is a feasible base for those Freissinières
Alpe d'Huez  La Grave  Diable  Laurichard  wishing to explore the southern Écrins and Aiguilles
Queyras regions.
One of the most famous ice-climbing destinations By car, the resort is about 1hr45 to La Grave, 1hr to
in France, many climbers choose to base Fournel and 45 minutes to Ceillac.
themselves here. The village has numerous hotels
and bars, making it a good choice for those When choosing a place to stay, bear in mind that
looking for catered accommodation. The routes the road over the Col du Lautaret (between La
opposite the village enjoy fairly reliable conditions Grave and Briançon) frequently requires snow
and short approaches (sometimes right from the chains and is sometimes closed for short periods
hotel), but those further down the valley thaw following heavy snowfall.
rapidly in warmer periods.
By car, the resort is about 1hr to Alpe d'Huez, 1hr30 PROVISIONS Ceillac
to Fournel and 2hr to Ceillac. There are plenty of supermarkets throughout the Crévoux
region, the largest of which are in Guillestre and Les Orres
Briançon Briançon.

La Grave  Laurichard  Vallouise  Cervières  Fournel  CLIMBING GEAR
Freissinières  Aiguilles  Ceillac  Crévoux  Les Orres  Espace Montagne in Argentière is a useful
climbing shop that sells ropes, ice gear, books and
The main town in the area has plenty of a wide range of ski equipment.
accommodation options, as well as all of the In Briançon there are numerous ski shops as well as
bars, restaurants and shops that you could need. an Intersport and Decathlon store.
Although it doesn't have as much character as
the small villages, its location is ideal for climbers Index
looking to visit both the northern Écrins (La Grave
etc) as well as the Queyras regions (Ceillac etc).
By car, the resort is about 1hr to La Grave, 45
minutes to Fournel and 1hr30 to Ceillac.

24 INTRODUCTION | How to Use Overview Map Page 6

Contents HOW TO USE THIS GUIDEBOOK Map reference, geo-location,
aspect information and
Area Map This guidebook describes the best and most approximate walk-in time.
Overview popular climbing around the Écrins and Queyras
regions, broken down into 12 geographic areas or Descent Mixed route,
Intro chapters. These chapters are listed on convenient on foot with white
'thumb tabs' down the side of each page, making
Grades it easy to quickly ick to an area of interest. Pure ice route, dashes
with yellow
How to Use Area Maps
At the start of each chapter is an area map which dashes
Suggested shows the location of each route in that chapter,
Areas along with parking spots and approach routes.
Main parking areas are annotated with a QR code
which can be scanned on a mobile phone to open
a Google Maps location.

Alpe QR Code – scan this Topos
d'Huez with a mobile phone Every topo has a header with a page reference
La Grave to open the location in for the relevant area map, the aspect, and the
approximate walk-in time. The header also
Diable Google Maps. includes a geo-location QR code which can be
Individual route scanned to open the location of that sector in your
Laurichard described in the phone's mapping app (we recommend the Locus
chapter, with page Map app for this).
The following symbols are used in the topo
reference. headers:

Vallouise SHADE This area sees little sunshine.
AM Sunshine in the morning.
Cervières PM Sunshine in the afternoon.
Plenty of sunshine.
Fournel
0:05 Approximate approach time in minutes.
Freissinières Sector described in
Aiguilles the chapter, with Route lines are marked on photo topos as
page reference. accurately as possible, but bear in mind that lines
will vary depending on ice formation and should
Ceillac Layout be treated as a rough guide only. The following
Crévoux Climbs are always described from left to right. In conventions are used on photo topos:
Les Orres the case of valleys which have climbing on both
banks this means that all of the climbs on the
left hand side (when heading up the valley) are 22 33 44 55 66
described rst, followed by those coming back
down the opposite side of the valley.

Grade 2 Grade 3 Grade 4 Grade 5 Grade 6

(Ice) (Mixed) (Ice) (Mixed) (Ice) (Mixed) (Ice) (Mixed) (Ice) (Mixed)

More information about the grading of routes can
be found on page 23.

Index

Overview Map Page 6 How to Use | INTRODUCTION 25

Route Descriptions Contents
Detailed route descriptions are not normally Area Map
required for ice routes, as formations will vary from Overview
year to year. Brief descriptions are therefore given,
providing su cient information to help users Intro
select a route – once on the climb most people will Grades
be happy to follow their instincts. How to Use
A standard star rating is used to give an idea of the Suggested
quality of each route in an average season, though Areas
this will of course depend on the formation each
year. Alpe
The following symbols are used to provide d'Huez
information about the protection, descent, and La Grave
objective dangers for each route: Diable
Protection Laurichard
Vallouise
ICE Requires only ice screws for protection. Cervières
BOLTS Has bolts for protection. Fournel
MIXED Requires some trad gear for protection. Freissinières
Descent Aiguilles
Ceillac
Descend on foot. Crévoux
ABSEIL Descend by abseil from trees. Les Orres

Descend by abseil from xed anchors. The impressive Dancing Fall (III/5+) at Les Orres. In good
years, this outlying area provides some tremendous
ABSEIL climbing with a relatively short approach. Page 170.
Photo: Tony Moody
ABSEIL Descend by abseil from Abalakov threads.
Formation

Route forms readily / reliable conditions.
Route rarely forms / unreliable conditions.
Risks / Danger / Other

! Danger of collapse.

! High avalanche risk.
! Other risk or danger.

Information unknown.

UNCHECKED

Choosing a Venue
A summary is given on page 7 in order to assist in
choosing a climbing venue.
Some recommendations for speci c types of route
or conditions are also given on page 26.

Index

28 ALPE d'HUEZ | Area Map Area Map Page 28

Les Rousses
Bartavelles
Contents
Oz Station 11-15. Gaufres à Jean-Jean page 31
Area Map
Overview Lac Carrelet 1-10. Les Rousses page 30

Intro 16-19. Mur de Cocaine page 32 Bartavelles
Les Rousses
Grades 2000

How to Use

Suggested
Areas

20-24. Symphonie d'Autumne page 33 Lac Noir 2100 Belvédère
Lac Besson
2300 2500
2400
Alpe Télépherique des Grandes Rousses
d'Huez Lac
La Grave Blanc
Diable
Laurichard Chalet du Lac
Besson

25-32. Mur d'Ice Bille page 34 Boulevard des Lacs

Chamois 41-47. Mur de Misère page 36

Vallouise 33-40. Mur de Supercramp page 35 Poutran
Cervières
Fournel Couloir
Freissinières
Chardons Chavannus 48-53. Petit Ben Nevis page 37
Piste
de Bob Les Sagnes Chamois

Aiguilles JeTuéxlépherique dJeesuGxranBdoSeansrodRweopruacsrrskoesDssécouverte Olympique 54-61. Gorge des Idiots page 38
Ceillac Le Lac Blanc
Crévoux
Les Orres 62-68. Mur de Dallas page 39

l'Alpe d'Huez Télésiège les Romains
Les Bergers

Main resort
complex
Le TaLbesuriPeoussRiifnsNel Express 2400
Agneaux
Télésiège des Marmottes 1 2300
Canyon 2200
La Balme
Téléski du Rif Nel Combe Charbonnière2100

2000
Campanules

Alpe d'Huez Map 1:25,000
750m 1km
Index 1900 N 0m 250m 500m

P 45.089263, 6.076269

Area Map Page 28 Overview | ALPE d'HUEZ 29

1. ALPE D'HUEZ Contents
Area Map
Excellent climbing, reliable conditions and short walk-ins make the west-facing cli s above Alpe Overview
d'Huez an ice-climbing paradise.
The routes are all at about 2200m above sea level, and although they get lots of afternoon sunshine Intro
they are usually in good condition right through the winter season, making this one of the most Grades
reliable venues in the Écrins. Since Alpe d'Huez itself is one of the region's most important ski resorts, How to Use
the road is cleared and access maintained even during snowy conditions. Suggested
Most of the routes are fairly short (1 to 3 pitches) and have easy approaches and straightforward Areas
descents. As a result, the climbing is not particularly committing and it is often possible to complete
more than one route in a day. AAllppee
Alternatively, this is a great place to combine ice climbing with some cross-country or downhill dd''HHuueezz
skiing on the well-groomed pistes of one of France's premiere ski resorts. Of course, if skiing is not for La Grave
you there's also the option of enjoying a post-climb beer in the Chalet du Lac Besson, which can be Diable
reached in a matter of minutes from the base of the routes. Laurichard
Access: The climbs are accessed either from the intermediate or top station of the Grandes Rousses Vallouise
gondola. Pedestrians can get a return ticket for approximately €12, or if you want to combine the Cervières
climbing with an afternoon of skiing then day passes cost around €54. Fournel
Parking: The large, well-signposted car park is situated in front of the main resort complex, where Freissinières
there is a lift-pass kiosk and an abundance of rental shops. The resort can get very busy, particularly at Aiguilles
weekends, so it's worth arriving early if possible. The lifts are open from 0830 - 1700. Ceillac
Approach: From the main resort complex, go up alongside the Téléski du Rif Nel to the Grandes Crévoux
Rousses gondola station in the upper part of the village. If on foot, please avoid walking on the ski
pistes – there are pedestrian pistes alongside the ski pistes all the way to the climbing.
The main approach to all sectors is from the intermediate station at Chavannus. From here, follow the
Chamois piste (pedestrian piste along its side) to reach the track which runs all the way along the base
of the crags. This same approach can be made on touring or cross-country skis.
An alternative approach to the more northerly sectors can be made on skis from the upper station
near Lac Blanc. From here, descend the Les Rousses ski piste to reach the northern end of the cli s.
All of the tracks between Chavannus and Lac Carrelet are well groomed and provide some excellent
cross-country skiing.

Ski pistes above Alpe d'Huez. As well as being a paradise for ice
climbers, this high alpine resort offers plenty of opportunities for
combining climbing with cross-country, downhill, or ski touring.
Photo: Steve Broadbent

Les Orres

Index

30 ALPE d'HUEZ | Les Rousses Area Map Page 28

Dome des Map page 28
Petites Rousses PM 1:20

Contents

Area Map
Overview

Intro

Grades 34 Couloir du Diable

How to Use 10

Suggested 56 78
Areas
9

1 2

Les Rousses
ski piste

Alpe
d'Huez

La Grave

Diable 3. Unknown I/3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ICE
Laurichard 40m. This is the short gully immediately left of the brown
Vallouise Les Rousses buttress.
Cervières ! ICE
Fournel Altitude: 2250m Aspect: West Approach: 0:10 / 1:20 4. Les Rennais Volants II/5+ . .
Freissinières 45m. The fragile column up the front of the big brown
Aiguilles This superb line of cli s, reaching approximately buttress doesn't always form.
50m in height, lies beneath the Dôme des Petites
Ceillac Rousses. F.Damilano & E.Bonneau, February 1991.
Crévoux The routes are all worthwhile, but see less tra c
Les Orres than the other sectors due to a longer approach 5. Pibomaniaque II/4+ . . . . . . . . . . . . ICE
from the rst station of the Grandes Rousses 45m. This is the icefall up the right-hand side of the
gondola. For those with skis, however, the brown buttress.
approach is a very enjoyable ski descent from
the top station. R.Pastourel, P.Pibarot & G.Perroux, January 1988.
Approach: On foot, approach along the
pedestrian piste from the rst station of the 6. La Grande Lessive II/4 . . . . . . . . . . . ICE
Grandes Rousses (Chavannus) as described on 45m. Good climbing up from the back of the bay.
page 29 (about 1hr30).
On skis, go down the Rousses ski piste from the F.Boissier, F.Chaptal & G.Perroux, January 1992.
top station (about 10 minutes).
See map on page 28. 7. Goulotte I/2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ABSEIL ICE
45m. The pleasant couloir is suitable for beginners and
 Descent: Some routes are equipped for an abseil descent. For has an equipped abseil descent.

the others, descend on foot via the Couloir du Diable, as shown 8. Tomawack I/3+ . . . . . . . . . . . . ABSEIL ICE
on the topo. 40m. An excellent route with a steep nish that is
frequently in good condition. Descend by abseil down the
south (true left) bank.

9. La Douche Écossaise I/4 . . . . . . ABSEIL ICE
30m. The superb, broad icefall is probably the best route
in the sector. Descend either by abseil or on foot to the
south.

1. Unknown I/3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . G.Cravatte, F.Guelpa, G.Perroux & F.Scherrer, January 1981.

55m. The S-shaped icefall at the left end of the cli s. ICE 10. Les Piliers du Ciel I/4+ . . . . . .
30m. An excellent climb, though care is required as it
starts straight o the piste. ICE

2. Unknown II/4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ICE G.Cravatte, F.Guelpa, G.Perroux & F.Scherrer, January 1981.
Index 50m. The steeper ice smear up the broad buttress.

Area Map Page 28 Mur des Gaufres à Jean-Jean | ALPE d'HUEZ 31

Dome des Descent via
Petites Rousses Symphonie abseils

Contents

Area Map
Overview

Intro

15 Grades
14
How to Use
12
11 Suggested
Areas

Couloir des 13
Agnelins

AAllppee
dd''HHuueezz
La Grave

Diable

Laurichard

Mur des Gaufres à Jean-Jean Map page 28 Vallouise
PM 1:00 Cervières
Altitude: 2200m Aspect: West Approach: 0:15 / 1:00
Towards the left-hand end of the line of cli s 11. La Poisse II/3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . ICE Fournel
is the Couloir des Agnelins, which provides a 50m. This small icefall on the cli s to the left of the Freissinières
challenging (but quick) ski approach from the Couloir des Agnelins is rarely in condition and sees few
upper station for competent o -piste skiers. ascents. Aiguilles
The wall to the right of the couloir is known Ceillac
as the Mur des Gaufres à Jean-Jean, named G.Perroux, F.Guelpa, F.Sherrer & G.Cravatte, January 1981. Crévoux
in honour of a wa e shop that was often Les Orres
frequented by climbers during the early 12. Emprise des Sens II/2+ . . . . . . . . . . ICE
development of the area. 110m. The broad ice walls to the right of the Couloir des Index
Approach: On foot, approach along the Agnelins give some worthwhile climbing. Descend on foot
pedestrian piste from the rst station of the down the couloir.
Grandes Rousses (Chavannus) as described on
page 29 (about 1 hour). G.Perroux, F.Guelpa, F.Sherrer & G.Cravatte, January 1981.
On skis it is possible to approach from the upper
station of the Grandes Rousses via the Couloir 13. Vivement la Gaufre Direct II/4 . . . ICE
des Agnelins. 50m. When formed, the obvious pillar makes an excellent
See map on page 28. direct start to Vivement la Gaufre.

 Descent: From the top of the routes, either descend the 14. Vivement la Gaufre II/4 . . . . . . ICE
100m. The upper wall can be climbed by a variety of
Couloir des Agnelins or walk south and abseil down Symphonie lines, all giving some excellent climbing.
d'Automne ( xed anchors).
15. La Goinfrerie II/4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ICE
100m. The right-hand side of the upper wall forms less
reliably than Vivement, but gives some adventurous
climbing when in condition.

F.Damilano, G.Perroux, R.Pastourel & J.Jean, April 1990.

32 ALPE d'HUEZ | Mur de Cocaïne Area Map Page 28

Contents Descent via
Symphonie abseils
Area Map
Overview 15

Intro 14 19

Grades 18
16 17
How to Use

Suggested
Areas

20

Alpe
d'Huez
La Grave

Diable

Laurichard

Vallouise

Cervières Map page 28
Fournel PM 0:50

Freissinières Mur de Cocaïne 16. Trois pour Quatre II/4 . . . . . . . . . . ABSEIL ICE
Aiguilles 100m. The left-hand line gives some good climbing with
Ceillac Altitude: 2200m Aspect: West Approach: 0:50 equipped belays.
Crévoux
Les Orres Just to the left of the prominent icefall of G.Perroux, 1983.
Symphonie d'Automne is a tall cli with three
excellent, steep ice climbs. 17. Défonce du Consommateur II/4 . . . . ABSEIL ICE
Although some in-situ equipment is in place, all 120m. The broad icefall up the centre of the wall o ers
of these routes are quite adventurous and don't various possibilities. Partially equipped
see many ascents.
Approach: From the rst station of the Grandes G.Courtiol, J.C.Mass, J.P.Mottin, G.Perroux & J.Sounac, January 1987.
Rousses gondola, follow the Chamois piste to
gain the track that runs in a northerly direction 18. Par Inadvertance II/4 . . . . . . . . . . ABSEIL ICE
beneath the long line of cli s. Continue along 100m. The thinner right-hand line is an excellent climb
this until the routes come into view on the right- with some in-situ equipment.
hand side.
See map on page 28. P.Allardin, P.Cavoret, P.Chambon, D.Dumont, N.Georges, C.Massicart & I.Parsy,
December 1992.
 Descent: From the top of the routes walk south and abseil
19. ZZ Top II/4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ABSEIL MIXED
Index down Symphonie d'Automne ( xed anchors). 150m. A long mixed climb about which few details are
known. The exact line is uncertain, but the route features
about ve pitches mainly on snow and rock with short
sections of ice.

B.Champenois, G.Perroux & F.Scherrer, January 1984.

Area Map Page 28 Symphonie d'Automne | ALPE d'HUEZ 33

Map page 28 Contents
PM 0:45
Area Map
45m Overview

Intro

15m 24 Grades
20 23
How to Use

Suggested
Areas

21 22

AAllppee
dd''HHuueezz

Symphonie d'Automne  Descent: The upper step of Symphonie d'Automne can either La Grave
Diable
Altitude: 2200m Aspect: West Approach: 0:45 be abseiled or avoided on foot to the north. From the base of the Laurichard
upper step, make a long (45m) abseil down the true right bank of
A selection of superb classic climbs alongside Symphonie d'Autmne. Depending on the formation, a second (15m)
the very prominent Symphonie d'Automne, which abseil may be required to reach the ground.
is one of the great ice climbs of the Écrins.
Approach: From the rst station of the Grandes 21. Audace III/5+ . . . . . . . . . . . . . ABSEIL MIXED Vallouise
Rousses gondola, follow the Chamois piste to 140m. Another tremendous climb. Two pitches up the Cervières
gain the track that runs in a northerly direction wall right of Symphonie lead to a spectacular, narrow 30m Fournel
beneath the long line of cli s. Continue along free-standing column. Unfortunately this rarely forms Freissinières
this until the routes come into view on the right- completely and the route has seen few ascents. Aiguilles
hand side.
See map on page 28. B.Lapointe, A.Mercier & G.Perroux, March 1988. Ceillac
Crévoux
20. Symphonie d'Automne II/4 . . . ABSEIL ICE 22. Exterminator 6b . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ABSEIL MIXED Les Orres
120m. A magni cent and justi ably popular icefall, 140m. A long term project that saw several failures
giving one of the best routes of its type in the region. It is before nally being climbed in rock shoes in winter Index
made up of two distinct steps. conditions!
1) 45m. Climb the excellent wall (75°) to a comfortable
belay on the right. J.C.Brunat, F.Léorat & G.Perroux, 1985.
2) 30m. The next section steepens to approximately 80°
before reaching the platform below the upper step. It is 23. Le Couloir des Six Clones 5c . . . . . . . . . ABSEIL MIXED
possible to belay on either side. 140m. Di cult climbing and a lack of any xed
Cave Finish) 60m (3+) Climb a ramp and go behind the protection make this an unusually serious route that sees
icicle curtain to belay in a cave at about 40m. From here, few ascents.
make airy moves out of the cave and nish up a steep wall
to a bolted anchor on rocks above. J.C.Brunat, December 1986.
Direct Finish) 45m (4 to 4+) The steep upper wall can be
climbed by a variety of lines on which the di culty varies 24. A reux A reux IV/5+ M6 . . . ABSEIL MIXED
from year to year. Sometimes a vertical column provides a 95m. A exceptional climb that forms rarely and requires
delicate option to the right of the cave at about grade 5. high levels of skill and dedication.
1) 40m. Delicate climbing on thin ice, protected by small
G.Perroux, B.Miard & J.M.Téllé, November 1979. cams.
2) 40m. Go up di cult mixed ground to reach the ice. This
gives some very bold climbing before a steep pillar leads
to a belay on the terrace.
3) 15m. A nal wall to the top. Descend by abseil down
the route.

J.Blythe, H.Mullen & G.Perroux, December 1993.

40 LA GRAVE | Area Map Area Map Page 40

Clavans le Besse
Bas

Contents La Grave Map 1:50,000
0m 500m
Area Map 1km 1500m 2km N Clot du
Overview Berlioux
Plateau
Intro 2361 d'Emparis

Grades 16107000 1. Cascade de la Pisse page 43 2. Cascade du Pertus page 43 Refuge des Le Rif Tort
How to Use 1210301014050000 45.039025, 6.185239 Mouterres
Suggested
Singuigneret 3. Le Lerié page 43
Areas
Lac Noir
Alpe Lac Lé
d'Huez 2200
La Grave 45.037649, 6.202705 2000
Diable 1800 1600
Lac du Chambon Le Parizet

PP 1400 45.036611, 6.230916

84. Cascade Patrick Berthet page 65 P 1200 PP

La P m a n c h e

Ro

Laurichard 2500 20001901081071006000
2300 1500
Vallouise 2100 1400
1900
1800
1600
Cervières Ruisseau Souchet
Fournel 82-83. Ruisseau Souchet page 64 Arête de Muretous

Freissinières

Aiguilles 65-68. L'Alpet page 61
Ceillac
Crévoux 79-81. Rif de Mantel page 64

Lac de 71-78. Le Clapier page 62 G
Sautet

Les Orres Téléphérique du Jandri Tête du Lac Col du 69-70. Torrent du Balmet page 62 Téléski de la Lauze
Index Noir
Montagne 3067 Jandri
de Rachas
Le Jandri
2748 3288
PIC DU
DIABLE

2868

Area Map Page 40 Overview | LA GRAVE 41

Contents

4-14. Tunnel du Grand Clot page 44 23-29. Grand Clot page 48 Area Map
Overview

Intro

Rif de Galan Grades
Rif de Caturgeas
15-22. Rif de Galan page 46 Le How to Use
Chazelet
30-32. La Pucelle page 51

Plateau 45.044381, 6.284715 Ventelon Suggested
d'Emparis Areas
érié 45.037936, 6.242471
La Pisse Noire Alpe
Le Grand

Clot
se 11980000 Les P
Rif de Chirouze Terrasses
Les Fréaux P
24002300 2100 La Grave
Téléphérique des Glaciers de la Meije
Torrent de l'AbéousP

P P La Romanche 45.044866, 6.303513 d'Huez

Galerie du Grand Clot P 2000 LaaGGrraavvee
1900
PP 34. Cascade
1800 de la Meije
page 53
1700 Diable
1600
Le Tilleul 1500 33. Cascade Laurichard
(dry tooling bloc) 45.039751, 6.258075 du Tabuchet
Chalet de Chal page 53
Vachère

Vallouise

Lac de Puy Cervières
Vachier Fournel
Freissinières
de la Meije Aiguilles
Ceillac
dpeasgGela5ci9ers 35-44. La Grave page 54 Crévoux
2. LA GRAVE63-64.L'Orcièrepage60 61-62. Puy Vachier 45-60. Les Freaux page 56 Les Orres

Téléphérique Index

Glacier de la

G i r o s e With everything from quick roadside xes to massive full-day adventures, La Grave is one of the
best-known ice-climbing destinations in France. Mighty cascades such as La Pisse and La Pucelle, sit
alongside the classic multi-pitch icefalls of Grand Clot on the sunny south-facing slopes, while the
famous routes of Les Fréaux and La Grave lurk in the shade on the heavily wooded lower slopes of

DÔME DLEa Meije. Unlike the icefalls lower down the valley, these routes receive hardly any sunshine and o er
LA LAUZgEood quality ice climbing throughout the winter season.

3559 Access: Most of the icefalls are accessed easily from the D1091 – the main road from Grenoble to
Briancon. Indeed, many of the routes here are some of the most 'roadside' ice climbs in the Ecrins.

Parking: The D1091 is a busy road, so please take care when parking and walking along the roadside.
Thankfully, there are plenty of parking spots along the length of the valley, so it is possible to park
close to most of the icefalls without causing an obstruction.

56 LA GRAVE | South Side | Les Fréaux (Left) Area Map Page 40

Contents Les Fréaux (Left) Approach: 0:40 50. La Goulotte d'Astarothe I/4 . . . ABSEIL ICE
Area Map 90m. The gully up to the left of the prominent cigars.
Overview Altitude: 1550m Aspect: North 1) 45m (3 to 4) Climb a broad wall to a tree belay on the

Intro The craggy north-facing hillside above Les left.
Fréaux is home to two of the valley's classic 2) 45m (4) Nice climbing up the gully to an equipped
Grades climbs as well as a handful of other worthwhile belay at the top of the di culties.
icefalls.
How to Use The hillside stays in the shade all day and tends J.F.Hagenmuller, S.Koenig, A.Long & S.Ha ner, late 1970s.
Suggested to o er reliable ice conditions throughout the
season. This fact, combined with a relatively 51. Le Doigt d'Astarothe
Areas short approach from the road make routes (Cigare de Gauche) II/5+ . . . . .
such as Le Doigt d'Astarothe and La Croupe de ABSEIL ICE
Alpe la Pou asse amongst the most popular of La 70m. The left-hand cigar gives a tremendous and very
d'Huez Grave's famous ice climbs. popular climb, accessed from the previous route.
La Grave Parking: In the village of Les Fréaux. 1) 55m (3 to 4) Climb the initial wall to a belay below
Approach: Walk down through the village and the cigar.
Diable go over a bridge across the Romanche. Follow 2) 15m (5+) The free-standing column features about
the track round to the left (east) immediately 15m of vertical ice in a ne situation.
after the bridge and continue along this until
beneath the routes. There is usually a trail up F.Cadoret & G.Perroux, March 1981. Photo on page 42.
through the trees to the climbing.
See map on page 40. 52. Le Doigt d'Astarothe
(Cigare de Droite) II/5 . . . . . . . . . . ABSEIL ICE

70m. When formed, the right-hand cigar is marginally
easier but slightly less classic than its neighbour.

F.Damilano, unknown.

Laurichard 45. Goulotte Verney I/3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ABSEIL ICE 53. Demi-Pêche II/5 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ABSEIL ICE
Vallouise 150m. The access route to the next four climbs is 200m. Good climbing up a varied but rarely travelled line,
Cervières sometimes completely buried in snow. In lean conditions usually completed in four pitches. In thin conditions some
Fournel it can give some ice pitches. rock gear may be required.
Freissinières
Aiguilles O.Girou & J.C.Lapalus, January 1998.
Ceillac
Crévoux 54. La Croupe
Les Orres de la Pou asse II/4+ .......
ABSEIL ICE
220m. This attractive cascade gives one of the valley's
The Verney brothers, late 1970s.

46. Yao, Fils de la Jungle II/4+ . . . ABSEIL ICE classic ice climbs. Descent can either be made by abseil or
on foot from the top of pitch 3.
50m. One long pitch above the Goulotte Verney. 1-2) Easy climbing with bolted belays on the left.
J.L.Laroche, unknown.

47. Le Chandelier II/4+ ........ ABSEIL ICE 3) 40m (4+) The main icefall provides the crux of the
route. An intermediate belay is possible on the right, but
50m. The left-hand cigar at the top of the Goulotte it is usually climbed in a single pitch. Belays on both sides.
Verney.
4) Go up easy snow to the base of the next wall.
48. Les Valseuses II/4+ . . . . . . . . 5-6) The upper wall reaches 85°. Tree belay at the top.
ABSEIL ICE
80m. The right-hand branch at the top of the Goulotte
S.Ha ner & R.Mouradian, January 1981. Photo page 56.

Verney culminates in a very impressive 12m vertical
column.

A.Compagnon, A.Mercier, G.Perroux & G.Polturat, 1985.

49. La Voie Scie... La Voilà I/3+ ICE
200m. This route starts as for Goulotte Verney, branching
o right after about 80m. Like that climb, it is often buried
under snow and best ascended early in the season.
42

J.L.Laroche, H.Lévêque, P.Pelicier & D.Ségui, January 1988.

Index

Area Map Page 40 Les Fréaux (Left) | South Side | LA GRAVE 57

49 51 52 Contents
46 48 50 Area Map
Overview
47
Intro
53 Grades
How to Use
45 Suggested
50 Areas

Map page 40 Alpe
SHADE 0:40 d'Huez
54 LaaGGrraavvee
53 Diable
50 Laurichard
Vallouise
Cervières
Fournel
Freissinières
Aiguilles
Ceillac
Crévoux
Les Orres

43 45 54 56
44 55
Les Fréaux – Left (above)

Track from Les Fréaux

Index

66 VALLON DU DIABLE | Area Map Area Map Page 66

Contents Lac Noir Mura
Grand Ruisseau
Area Map 8-12. Les Parallèls page 69
Overview Saignettes
Blanches
Intro 13-20. Vol du Bourdon page 70 21-27. Top of the Valley page 71Carlet
Va l l o n d e l a S e l l ePaloy
Grades 2400
2300
How to Use 2200
2100
Suggested 2000
Areas
Torrent du Diable
Alpe 1-7. Seconde Vie page 68 2500 2400 2300
d'Huez 2200
2100
La Grave
1900
Diable

Laurichard

Vallouise 44.963233, 6.178131 Small hydro
Cervières plant
51-54. Sector Autism page 77

Fournel P

Freissinières Track to 38-44. Larmes du Chaos page 75
Aiguilles hydro plant on 45-50. Hémos à Godo page 76
Ceillac southeast side of
Crévoux Leyrette
stream
Alpine
Museum
Pont du 2800
2700Diable
Vé n é o n Combe du Saut
2600La Ville2300 TÊ
25002200 GR
Les Orres 2400
3
2100
2000
1900
1800
1700
1600

D530

Vé n é o n
Vallée du
Les Granges T
La Bernardière M

Index Vallon du Diable Map 1:25,000
750m 1km
N 0m 250m 500m

Area Map Page 66 Overview | VALLON DU DIABLE 67

Puy Salié2900 Contents
Muande Vieille 2800
2700 R u i s s e a u d u Va l l o n 3. VALLON DU DIABLE Area Map
Ruisseau de la Chioura Overview
26. Cascade de la2C6h0i0oura page 71 Also known as the Vallon de la Selle, this magni cent
high valley is one of the best kept secrets of the Écrins, Intro
2400 providing a collection of wanodrlde-acsleasosfRiaeclafceuSgcereleloedseusteeisththear ton Grades
2300 enjoy reliable conditions How to Use
2200 foot or on skis. Suggested
Areas
The climbing is situated on both sides of the valley,
meaning that it's possible to enjoy welcome sunshine Alpe
icnotldhecomniddidtiloenTosoferwvr ieennnttelard,toueriDncoitnahbteilnseueaosuosns.hAaddde and d'Huez
to that La Grave
a superb, tranquil high-mountain environment and DDiiaabblele
you've got one of the region's best venues for alpine Laurichard
icefall climbing. Vallouise
2300 3100 Cervières
2200 2400 The only downside, however, is that the valley is an3000 Fournel
avalanche hot-spot throughout the winter. After heavy2900 Freissinières
2500 snowfall, access may be impossible as avalanches2800 Aiguilles
28-31. Wall of Tranquility page 72 sweep both sides of the valley. LaGtel ar cini etrheE ss et ason, the2700 Ceillac
south facing routes become severdeulyDai aebcltee d by ice Crévoux
fall and great care is required even on the approach2600 Les Orres
trail.
AccesGs:lTaucrine ro Otehset D1090 (the La Grave road) at Le2500
Clapier,dauboDuita4b.5l ekm south of Bourg-d'Oisans. Follow
32-33. Grison page 73 the D530 (signposted to Vénosc and St.Cristophe)
south along the impressive Vallée du Véneon as far
as the village of La Ville, where there is a small alpine
museum. Just after leaving La Ville, take a sharp
turning on the left, signposted to L'Eyrette and Les
Pres.

3000 34-37. Mur de Glacenost page 74 Parking: There is a small parking area (5 or 6 cars)
at the end of the road above Les Pres. If this road is
ÊTE DU snow-covered then it will be necessary to park lower
RAOU down and walk the extra distance up the road – if
3168 there is lots of snow then consider the avalanche risk
in the valley.

Approach: From the parking spot at the end of the
road, the easiest path is to follow the track up round
a hairpin bend and along the southeast bank of the
river. It is also possible to take a smaller trail that
crosses the river just beyond the parking and follows
the northwest bank. Both ways come together at a
small hydro plant, where it is possible to cross the river
and continue along the north bank to the climbing.

TÊTE DE LA le Cray Ruisseau d'en Bas The climbs here are particularly suitable for an
MARSARE approach on skis, as they all lie above a popular ski
mountaineering descent from the Selle Refuge.
3118

Index

74 VALLON DU DIABLE | South Side | Mur de Glacenost Area Map Page 66

Contents

Area Map
Overview

Intro

Grades

How to Use

Suggested
Areas

Alpe 34 35 36 37
d'Huez
33
La Grave

Diable

Laurichard Map page 66
SHADE 1:15
Vallouise Mur de Glacenost
Cervières The next routes are found up the back wall of the
Fournel Altitude: 2100m Aspect: North Approach: 1:00 – 1:15 small cirque just to the right of Glacenost.
Freissinières It is not known if the leftmost line – a narrow
Aiguilles A small cirque with numerous steep chandeliers, ribbon of icicles and hanging chandeliers – has
providing a collection of shorter routes that are been climbed. Just to the right of this is...
Ceillac frequently in condition.
Crévoux Approach: Take the main track initially on the 35. Me ez-vous .... ! !
south side of the valley, crossing over to the des Houziers II/6
north side at the small hydro plant. Continue ABSEIL ICE
up the valley, eventually crossing back to the 50m. The line of icicles just left of Maxi Dure et Micropure
south side further up. The routes are located on gives an exacting and very aesthetic climb that is one
the right-hand side, just beyond Les Larmes du of the best of its type in the valley. The starting moves
Chaos. are sometimes on rock in order to gain the hanging
See map on page 66.

chandelier above.

Les Orres 34. Glacenost II/4+ . . . . . . . . . . . . ! ABSEIL ICE F.Damilano, D.Lavalade & G.Perroux, January 1993.
Index
150m. The narrow couloir provides some exciting 36. Maxi Dure
climbing, at its best when the snow is rm and compact. et Micropure I/5+ . . . . . . . !
ABSEIL ICE
50m. The broader line of ice to the right is frequently
At other times protection can be di cult to arrange and in good condition, giving steep intricate climbing
the route will be hard for the grade.
1) 60m. A long pitch of steep snow and ice to a good throughout.

belay on the right. F.Damilano, D.Lavalade & G.Perroux, January 1993.

2) 60m. Another sustained pitch. Peg belay on the right. 37. Bilboquet I/4 . . . . . . . . . . ! ABSEIL ICE
3) 30m. Finish up the ice wall to the end of the 50m. The diagonal ramp trending up leftwards to the top
di culties. of the previous route.

P.O.Blanc, J.L.Bret, M.Gonthier, G.Perroux, E.Peytel & J.Y.Pinton, January 1990. M.Ibarra & C.Raillon, January 1993.

Area Map Page 66 Larmes du Chaos | South Side | VALLON DU DIABLE 75

Contents

Area Map
Overview

Intro

38 44 Grades

41 42 How to Use
39 40

43 Suggested
45 Areas

Larmes du Chaos Map page 66

Altitude: 2000m Aspect: North Approach: 1:00 – 1:15 SHADE 1:15

A selection of excellent ice routes, including two 40. Patience I/3 . . . . . . . . . . . ! ABSEIL ICE Alpe
of the big classic climbs of the Écrins. 25m. The little icefall gives some fun climbing. d'Huez
These icefalls o er reliably good conditions but La Grave
are very prone to avalanches and should be 41. Le Prix de la DDiiaabblele
avoided after heavy snowfall. Consolation II/4 . . . . . . . . ! Laurichard
Approach: Take the main track initially on the ABSEIL ICE Vallouise
south side of the valley, crossing over to the 80m. Another pleasant route up the couloir to the right of Cervières
north side at the small hydro plant. Continue up Les Larmes du Chaos. Fournel
the valley until the routes come into view on the 1) 50m (3) Easy ice and snow up to the foot of the pillar. Freissinières
right, opposite the prominent ice-covered wall 2) 10m (4) The short vertical pillar. Aiguilles
of Vol du Bourdon. Ceillac
See map on page 66. 42. Clochers de l'Enfer II/5 . . ! ABSEIL ICE Crévoux
70m. The perfect cigar is a legendary route that ranks Les Orres
amongst the best and most famous grade 5's in the Écrins.
1) 40m. Easy climbing to a bolted belay left of the cigar. Index
38. Les Zombis se Cachent 2) 30m. The column gives 15m of fantastic vertical
Pour Ouvrir II/3+ . . . . . . . . . . . ! climbing. Continue up to a belay on the left.
ABSEIL ICE
100m. This climb lurks in the hidden gully about a
G.Perroux & R.Bolleart, February 1987.

hundred metres left of Les Larmes du Chaos. After the 43. La Rage de Vivre II/4 . . . . . . . . ! ABSEIL ICE
main pitch it is possible to abseil o (bolts) or continue 200m. The indistinct icefall to the right is not particularly
upwards to reach the top of Les Larmes du Chaos. continuous but has some excellent steep sections. The
route is not fully equipped, and some Abalakov belays
D.E anti, N.Martin-Jarrand & G.Perroux, January 1993. may be required.
1) The initial steep wall does not always form, but can be
39. Les Larmes du Chaos II/4+ ! ABSEIL ICE avoided via snow slopes on the left.
115m. A magni cent classic – one of the best routes in 2) 35m. Climb the attractive wall with some vertical
the valley. The ice forms quickly and remains climbable moves. Belay on rocks on the left.
until very late in the season, although it is best avoided in 3) Go up the snow ramp and climb the rst ice wall on
avalanche conditions. Not surprisingly it can get busy, and the left.
queues are not uncommon. 4) Finish up another attractive wall.
1) 20m. A continuous slope of about 70°. Bolted belays
on both sides. G.Perroux, February 1982.
2) 25m. A steep pitch to a belay on the right.
3) 25m. Continue up 60° ice to a short vertical wall. Go up 44. Rage d'Ouvrir II/4+ . . . . . . . . ! ABSEIL ICE
this to bolted belays on either side. 150m. The exact line of this route is uncertain. It is
4) 25m. The couloir continues at about 60°. Take the left-
hand branch (about 85°) to a bolted belay on the right. described as starting to the left of La Rage de Vivre before
crossing that route and continuing up ice to the right.
5) 20m. Initially easy, with a short steep wall to nish. Descent is via the snow ramp to a nal abseil.
G.Ayad, J.Carton & G.Perroux, January 1982.
D & D.Barozet, B.Cieslik, F.Hugon & G.Perroux, December 1992.

86 VALLOUISE | Pelvoux, La Pisse Area Map Page 82

Contents Pelvoux, La Pisse Approach: 1:40
Area Map
Overview Altitude: 2100m Aspect: West

Intro The prominent line of cli s on the western 11 13 15
slopes of the Tâte de Lauzières are home to 12 14
Grades a number of excellent icefalls, all enjoying Coul d'Amont
stunning views across to Mont Pelvoux. refuge 16
How to Use These routes face west and get lots of sunshine,
Suggested so should be tackled early in the day before ice
fall becomes a signi cant hazard. Thankfully their
Areas relatively high altitude means that they form
frequently, and with the exception of La Pisse, are
Alpe often in good condition.
d'Huez Approach: The icefalls are approached steeply
La Grave from the D421T L'Eychauda road via the Torrent
de la Julianne and the path to the Coul d'Amont
refuge. From the Coul d'Amont, continue up the
hillside, with the routes in full view the whole
way.
See map on page 82.

Diable 11. Unnamed II/3+ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ABSEIL ICE
Laurichard 50m. The left-hand icefall gives some steep climbing.
Vallouise
Cervières 12. Unnamed II/4+ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ABSEIL ICE
Fournel 60m. The line just to the right is a slightly harder
Freissinières proposition.
Aiguilles
13. Variante de Sortie
Ceillac de Jolly Stumpert II/6+ . . . . . . . . . ABSEIL ICE
Crévoux 80m. The left-hand nish to Jolly Stumpert gives some
Les Orres very testing climbing. Traverse left from the middle belay
of that route to tackle the hanging icicles above.

A.Guillaume, G.Troussier & S.Troussier, 2001.

14. Jolly Stumpert II/5 . . . . . . . . . . . . ABSEIL ICE
80m. A fabulous climb, with two steep and sustained
pitches up the aesthetic icefall.

R.Borgis & E.Fine, February 2001.

15. A la Recherche . . . . ! ABSEIL ICE
du Glaçon Suspendu IV/6
100m. A series of hanging icicles and overhanging
chandeliers, giving a technical climb with much variety.
1) (4) The initial 40m ice wall is sustained at 85°.
2) (5+) Continue up mixed ground and steep icicles above
to an equipped belay on the terrace.
3) (6) Athletic climbing through the upper overhangs.
G.Pierrard & D.Stumpert, 2000.

Index

Area Map Page 82 Pelvoux, La Pisse | VALLOUISE 87

16. Le Dièdre Englacé IV/5 . . . . . . . . . ABSEIL MIXED thaw and collapse. Good, safe conditions are therefore Contents
100m. Another very serious climb. The rst two pitches relatively rare and consequently this fabulous route sees
feature some thin ice and mixed climbing, before a few ascents. Area Map
steeper third pitch. 1) 50m (6) The vertical column is steep and sustained. Overview
Belay on ice screws where possible.
G.Pierrard & D.Stumpert, 1999. 2) 40m (5) The upper section eases only slightly before a Intro
steep nale.
17. Cascade de la Pisse IV/6 .... ! ICE Grades
90m. A tremendous and much coveted classic, enjoying
a commanding position above the Vallouise valley. The 18. Unnamed II/3+ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . How to Use
ICE
50m. The icefall at the right-hand side of the line of the Suggested
cascade carries quite a lot of water, requiring persistent band of cli s. Descend on foot to the right. Areas
cold weather to freeze. Unfortunately, it is also in the
sun from early afternoon onwards, and is prone to rapid
19. Unnamed II/3+ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ICE
50m. This route follows a small gully in the more broken
rocks to the right of the previous routes..

17 18 Alpe
d'Huez
19 La Grave
Diable
Laurichard
VVaallouiissee
Cervières
Fournel
Freissinières
Aiguilles
Ceillac
Crévoux
Les Orres

Map page 82 Index
PM 1:40

172 INDEX Overview Map Page 6

Contents
Area Map

INDEX OF ROUTESOverview
Intro
Grades
How to Use
Suggested

Areas

Alpe
d'Huez
La Grave
Diable
Laurichard
Vallouise
Cervières
Fournel
Freissinières
Aiguilles
Ceillac
Crévoux
Les Orres

Index

Overview Map Page 6 INDEX 173

Contents
Area Map
Overview

Intro
Grades
How to Use
Suggested
Areas

Alpe
d'Huez
La Grave
Diable
Laurichard
Vallouise
Cervières
Fournel
Freissinières
Aiguilles
Ceillac
Crévoux
Les Orres

Index

174 INDEX Overview Map Page 6
Aileen Robertson on Open 89 (I/3+) in the Combe de
Contents Laurichard. The accessible routes here are an excellent
Area Map choice for climbers looking for low-commitment, low-
Overview grade routes – particularly when warm conditions are
affecting causing a thaw lower down. Page 81.
Intro
Grades Photo: Steve Broadbent
How to Use
Suggested
Areas

Alpe
d'Huez
La Grave
Diable
Laurichard
Vallouise
Cervières
Fournel
Freissinières
Aiguilles
Ceillac
Crévoux
Les Orres

Index

Overview Map Page 6 INDEX 175

INDEX OF ROUTES Canine Blues II/4 36 Colonna Farina III/6 100
139 Colosse de Rhodes V/4+ 99 Contents
Canyon de Chichin III/5 138 100
104
22 à Agnieres M10 168 Canyon des Oules III/3 151 Columna Cataluna III/5+ 118 Area Map
Accès des Cons I/3 118 Capitaine Courageux III/4+ 69 Compilation I/5+/M5 108 Overview
Adios Tombola III/5 106 Carpette I/M6+ 144 Congel’Eau III/4 118
Adrenaline Rush II/4 63 Cascade Allardin II/4+ 85 Con Pensant I/5 118 Intro
A reux A reux IV/5+ M6 33 Cascade Chantriaux III/6 164 Con Qui S’Adore I/M5 118
A la Recherche du Glaçon Suspendu IV/6 86 Cascade de Chambran I/3 71 Con Versant I/M5 141
A la Recherche du Temps Perdu III/4 108 Cascade de la Chalp II/3+ 53 Couche d’Ozone I/M5 33 Grades
Alea Jacta Est III/4+ 49 Cascade de la Chioura II/2 87 Couloir des Six Clones 5c 39
Allométrie I/3 154 Cascade de la Meije II/3 43 Couloir I/2 165 How to Use
Ancrage de Dent II/5 92 Cascade de la Pisse IV/6 84 Coup de Blues IV/6/M6+/6a/A3 111
Anna Montécristo II/M4/5+ 117 Cascade de la Pisse V/6 165 Courte Broche II/4+ 123
Arc de Cercle III/5 124 Cascade de la Plaine de St.Jean III/3+ 84 Cousin Hubert III/5+ 34 Suggested
Arcs-y-la Tou e IV/6+/M8 102 Cascade de Razis II/3+ to II/5+ 122 Crapauds Iangoureux II/3 143 Areas
Astier Chemine M5+ 35 Cascade de Seguret Foran III/3+ 138 Crayon II/5
Attention Mammouth I/2+ 155 Cascade des Eysserennes III/3+ 169 Cristal Palace II/6+ 77
Audace III/5+ 33 Cascade des Oules III/4+ 123 Cristal Sympa II/3 81
Au-Dèla des Ombres IV/5 131 Cascade des Sources (The Last) III/4+ 91 Critique de la Raison Pure I/M9 142
Au Delà de Toute Espérance III/M5/4+ 139 Cascade des Viollins III/5+ 92 Croc Blanc III/5 100 Alpe
Au Paradis Perdu III/5+ 105 Cascade de Thura II/3 68 Croupe de la Pou asse II/4+ 56 d'Huez
Autoroute du Soleil II/4+ 144 Cascade d’Initiation I/3+ 93 Cul de Sac M5 39
Aux Lames Citoyens II/M5+ 93 Cascade du Barrage I/2 43 Dame Blanche III/4 117 La Grave
Aux Trois Gnomes III/M6+/5+ 123 Cascade du Bourget II/4+ 85 Dames Font du Tricot II/4+ 37
Aventuriers de l’Ice Perdue III/4 104 Cascade du Pertus II/4 64 Damocles III/4+ 105
Baiser de Lune III/5+ 102 Cascade du Pissa I/3 53 Dancing Fall II/5+ 170 Diable
Balade de Tof et Boite - Boite II/3 129 Cascade du Rif Mantel II/2 68 Davido II/4+ 119
Balade du Piaf III/3 97 Cascade du Tabuchet III/3 60 Déclin de l’Empire Américain I/M8 142
Ban Ban IV/5 M5 164 Cascade Frachon II/4 73 Déconnexion V/6+ 133 Laurichard
Baroux d’Honneur II/4+ 72 Cascade Grassi III/4+ 65 Defonce du Consommateur II/4
Béal des Couarelles II/5 155 Cascade Grison II/4 107 Dégaines de Claire II/3+ 32
Beating the Retreat IV/4+ 102 Cascade Patrick Berthet III/5+ M8 136 de la Chouette IV/6 100 Vallouise
Beau Cigare III/6 170 Cassiopée III/5 45 De la Gauche et par Derrière I/M6 108
Belles et Buts II/4 68 Ça Tend vers l’Illusion V/5/M7 142 De l’Alba III/4 153
Ben des Vis III/4 114 Caturgeas III/4 135 Délicados IV/5+ 103 Cervières
Ben Novice (Left) I/M4+ 153 Ça va Jazzer I/M6 55 Délicatesse II/4
Ben Novice (Right) I/M4+ 153 Central Scrutinizer V/6 64 Del’Ice III/5 108
Bidochons I/4 140 C’est la Mienne III/5+ M7 38 Délire du Chacal III/4 102 Fournel
Bienvenue au Club III/6 76 C’est une Erreur II/3 56 Déliverance II/4 127
Biginning III/3 113 Chacal Bondissant II/4 127 Demain j’Arrête VI/7/6b/A3 62
Bilboquet I/4 74 Chandelier II/4+ 93 Demi-Pêche II/5 70 Freissinières
Bingo I/M6 85 Chandelles Fuegiennes III/6 93 Dent Dure I/M5+ 105
Bisounours III/4 113 Changement de Slip II/M7 169 Dernière Tentation du Diable III/6 56 Aiguilles
Blaireauxtime II/3 84 Changement de Slip, Left-hand II/M8 145 Des Ga es et des Gaufres I/3 152
Bléreau-Team M7 168 Chatte Mauve III/M6 76 Des Gaines qu’a ta Luna III/4 68
Bleu II/3 80 Chemins Lumineux I/3+ 138 des Houziers II/6 154 Ceillac
Blind Faith V/6/A1 133 Cherchez l’Erreur II/3 117 Dessous Dessus II/4 100
Blow Job III/5 125 Ciao Bip Bip IV/5+/M5 85 De Touffe en Touffe II/M6+/6+ 74
Bogne III/M7/6 144 Cigare Damilano II/5+ 117 Deux PP II/3+ 35 Crévoux
Bossu VI/6+/M6 125 Cigare du Pissa II/4 126 Diabolobite Direct II/5+
Boul’mich II/4 72 Cigare Tchouky II/6 105 Diabolobite III/5 144
Brindilles II/4 102 Cimetière des Éléphants VI/6+/6b+ 46 Dièdre à Dédé III/6 37 Les Orres
Bronchite de Gauche I/3 155 Clair de Lunule III/5+ 111 Dièdre Englacé IV/5 59
Bronchite de Gauche II/5 155 Clan des Dinosaures II/4+ 63 Dièdre (Lagrima) III/5 58
Brutus II/5 117 Clan La Cagoule III/4 171 Dimension Fractale V/6 55
Bug I/M5+ 141 Claque I/2 75 Directe de l’Arc de Cercle III/5 87
Cadeu II/3 108 Clara II/4 108 Directe des Ombres III/5 131
Cagade I/4 61 Clochers de l’Enfer II/5 59 Doberman V/7/M7 137
Caligula IV/5+ 117 Clownerie II/6+ Doby Dobé II/5 124
Câlins Solène II/5+ 113 Colère du Ciel II/3+ Docteur Pib, je Présume II/4+ 131
133
101
34 Index

176 INDEX Overview Map Page 6

Contents Teams approaching the impressive column of
Arc de Cercle (III/5) in Freissinières. Page 124.
Area Map Photo: Tony Moody
Overview

Intro

Grades

How to Use

Suggested
Areas

Alpe
d'Huez
La Grave
Diable
Laurichard
Vallouise
Cervières
Fournel
Freissinières
Aiguilles
Ceillac
Crévoux
Les Orres

Index

Overview Map Page 6 INDEX 177

Dodeliner Mais pas Tomber I/M5 92 Goulotte a Fleur de Peau III/4 M2 164 La Claque I/2 63
Doigt d’Astarothe (Droite) II/5 56 Goulotte d’Astarothe I/4 56 La Colère du Ciel II/3+ 59 Contents
Doigt d’Astarothe (Gauche) II/5+ 56 Goulotte de l’Enfer IV/5 165 La Couche d’Ozone I/M5 141
Doping Blues III/5+ 129 Goulotte de Muretouse II/3+ 61 La Croupe de la Pou asse II/4+ 56 Area Map
Double Cornet I/4 151 Goulotte des Frères Ennemis II/4 35 La Dame Blanche III/4 117 Overview
Double Dry I/M6+/6 100 Goulotte I/2 30 La Dent Dure I/M5+ 152
Double Scotch III/5 100 Goulotte I/3 39 La Dernière Tentation du Diable III/6 68 Intro
Double Scotch III/M3/5+ 101 Goulotte Martinez II/4 45 La Douche Écossaise I/4 30
Douceur de Vivre II/4 49 Goulotte Verney I/3 56 La Goinfrerie II/4 31
Douche Écossaise I/4 30 Gramusat Directe IV/6 133 La Gorge II/3+ 34 Grades
Dry Fucking III/M6+/5 131 Grand Bleu II/4 97 La Goulotte d’Astarothe I/4 56
Dry Martini I/M6+ 100 Grand Clot IV/5+ 48 La Goulotte I/3 39 How to Use
Dry Tonic I/M6 151 Grande Lessive II/4 30 La Grande Lessive II/4 30
Du Dectecteur, de Tou es II/M6/5 93 Grand Pardon II/5 77 La Grotte I/3 35
Easy Rider II/3 161 Grands Yeux 108 La Grotte (Left) I/5 150 Suggested
Eaux de Mortelune II/4+ 64 Grand Toi I/4 150 La Grotte (Right) I/5 150 Areas
Ectoplasm II/5 63 Grand Wazoo I/M7
El Niño I/M3 141 Grise Mine II/5 142 L’Aiguill’age de Glace (C) I/4+ 150
Els Reis del 2III/4+ / M4 103 Gros Sac II/M6+ 143 L’Aiguill’age de Glace (L) I/4+ 150
Emprise des Sens II/2+ 31 Grotte I/3 123 L’Aiguill’age de Glace (R) I/4 150
Erection II/5+ 61 Grotte (Left) I/5 35 La Javanaise II/4+ 71 Alpe
Escalator II/4+ 142 Grotte (Right) I/5 150 L’Albanaise II/6/6b 165 d'Huez
Escalibur II/5 145 Gulliver I/M4 150 La Méduse III/4+ 119
Eschrichia Coli III/4+ 38 Happy Together III/4 143 La Menace II/3 35 La Grave
Esmerelda III/6 125 Hasta la Vista III/M8/6 131 L’Anguille V/5+ 136
Estou ade III/3+ 111 Hémos à Godo II/4 131 La Nuit Sera Fraîche II/3+ 58
Et le Diable Hurla de Joie III/4+ 108 Here Comes the Sun II/4 76 La Poisse II/3 31 Diable
Étourdis II/4+ 58 Héroïsme au Quotidien III/3+ 70 La Promenade du Matheysin II/3+ 49
Ex-tension II/M5+/5 93 Héros Tique I/M7 114 La Provençale III/6 70
Exterminator 6b 33 Hiroshima III/5 159 La Rage de Vivre II/4 75 Laurichard
Face de Rat III/M7+/6 131 Holiday on Ice II/3+
Facile I/3 149 Humour Bleu II/3+ 96 La Rampe de Neige I/2 39
Fais Ga e j’y Vais II/M5 92 Ice and Rock (Left) I/5 160 L’Arche d’Alliance II/4+ 96 Vallouise
Farçats II/2 71 Ice and Rock (Right) I/5 46 La Répétition II/4 72
Faut Biller I/M5+ 141 Ice Bille (Centre) II/4 150 La Résolution de l’Eau Nue II/4+ 70
Filet de Glace II/2 71 Ice Bille (Left) II/3+ 150 L’Arlésienne II/4 161 Cervières
Finesse et Délicatesse III/5+ 123 Ice Bille (Right) II/4+
Fini de Rire I/M4+ 153 Ice Line I/6 34 Larmes de Nicodème III/4 139
Folie II/4 115 Ice Pocalypse III/4+ 34 Larmes du Chaos II/4+ 75 Fournel
Formes du Chaos II/4 158 I Con ne I/M3 34 Larmes du Redoux II/4 71
Foticroire I/M5+ 153 Ignorants III/5 150 Larmes du Regret IV/5+/M6/6a/A1 101
Fouineurs III/3+ 124 Impatience III/M5/4+ 130 Larmes du Roudoudou (Centre) II/4+ 38 Freissinières
Fracastorus III/3+ 122 Indiana Jones II/4+ 151 Larmes du Roudoudou (Left) II/5 38
Frénésie Basquaise III/2 139 Iznogood II/3 55 Larmes du Roudoudou (Right) II/4 38 Aiguilles
Frères de la Côte III/4+ 107 J’ai Épousé une Ombre II/4+ 139 La Sans Nom II/4 69
Funambule II/4 35 Jamais plus Jamais II/4 64 La Sentinelle II/4 68
Galans Cigare de Droite II/5+ 47 Jardin des Glaces I/4 115 La Smor a III/5 111 Ceillac
Galans Cigare de Gauche II/6 47 Je Suis une Légende II/3 37 La Sortie des Artistes II/4+ 106
Game Over III/5 103 Jeux de Quilles V/6 46 La Source des Dieux II/5+ 58
Garatata I/4 68 Joe’s Garage V/6 151 L’Asymptote Infernale II/4+ 76 Crévoux
Géhenne I/M5 151 Johanna II/4
Géronimo IV/5 131 Jolly Stumpert II/5 62 La Taupe V/6+/M8/6a 125
Gibbon Givré II/3 106 Jospin au Turbin II/4 137 La Tournée du Bosniaqu III/6 100 Les Orres
Givre (Left) II/4 80 Juppé, tes Jours sont Comptés II/4+ 135 La Tournee du Patron III/6+ 55
Givre (Right) II/4 81 Juste une Illusion V/6 37 La Triphasée II/4 38
Givre (The Easy Way) I/3 80 Katarina est de Retour III/6 86 L’Autisme II/4 77
Glacenost II/4+ 74 La Balade de Tof et Boite - Boite II/3 71 La Verge du Démon II/5+ 76
Global Warming III/6 55 Lacelle Qui Reste V/6 71 La Vie Aventureuse II/M5+ 93
Goinfrerie II/4 31 La Chatte Mauve III/M6 136 La Vision de Marco II/3 96
Gorge II/3+ 34 Lâche les Chiens V/5+/7a 70 La Vision du Vioco III/2+ 138
129 La Voie Scie... La Voilà I/3+ 56
137 Le Beau Cigare III/6 170
169 Le Bogne III/M7/6 144
133 Le Bossu VI/6+/M6 125 Index

178 INDEX Overview Map Page 6
Sodomice (I/M6+) is one of several popular dry-
Contents tooling routes behind the iconic cigar of Sombre
Area Map Héros at Ceillac. Page 159.
Overview
Photo: Tony Moody
Intro
Grades
How to Use
Suggested
Areas

Alpe
d'Huez
La Grave
Diable
Laurichard
Vallouise
Cervières
Fournel
Freissinières
Aiguilles
Ceillac
Crévoux
Les Orres

Index

Overview Map Page 6 INDEX 179

Le Bronchite de Gauche I/3 155 Les Galans Cigare de Gauche II/6 47 Méphisto II/5 113
Le Bronchite de Gauche II/5 155 108 38 Contents
Le Bug I/M5+ 141 Les Grands Yeux 76 Mimi II/4 45
Le Cadeu II/3 108
Le Canyon des Oules III/3 138 Les Hémos à Godo II/4 55 Mini Caturgeas I/2 – I/4 44 Area Map
Le Chandelier II/4+ 56
Le Cimetière des Éléphants VI/6+/6b+ 126 Les Ignorants III/5 139 Mini Moulin II/4+ 76 Overview
Le Clan des Dinosaures II/4+ 46
Le Clan La Cagoule III/4 111 Les Larmes de Nicodème III/4 75 Miniscule Gully II/4 36
L’École des Fans II/3 99
L’École des Fans II/3 99 Les Larmes du Chaos II/4+ 71 Misère II/3 153 Intro
Le Couloir des Six Clones 5c 33
Le Couloir I/2 39 Les Larmes du Redoux II/4 MishMash au MalReef I/M5 105
Le Crayon II/5 143 Les Larmes du Regret IV/5+/M6/6a/A1 101
Le Déclin de l’Empire Américain I/M8 142 Les Larmes du Roudoudou (Centre) II/4+ 38 Mistral IV/7/A1 or M8 170
Le Dièdre à Dédé III/6 55 144 Grades
Le Dièdre Englacé IV/5 87 Les Larmes du Roudoudou (Left) II/5 38 Mixte Amer III/M6 145
Le Dièdre (Lagrima) III/5 131 Les Larmes du Roudoudou (Right) II/4 38 Mixte and Fly II/M8/6
Le Doigt d’Astarothe (Droite) II/5 56
Le Doigt d’Astarothe (Gauche) II/5+ 56 154 Mô Décision I/4 118 How to Use
Le Facile I/3 149 110
Le Givre (Left) II/4 80 Les l’Hoche Pendantes I/3 to I/4 55 Moins con tu Vis I/5
Le Givre (Right) II/4 81 Monde des Glaces II/5
Le Givre (The Easy Way) I/3 80 Les Mauvais Années 1 I/3 55 131
Le Grand Pardon II/5 77 168
Le Grand Wazoo I/M7 142 Les Mauvais Années 2 I/3+ 133 Monopussy IV/5/M7/A0 Suggested
Le Héros Tique I/M7 159 Monsieur le Neuf M10 Areas
Le Lerie III/5+ 43 Les Moulins de mon Coeur V/M9/6 45 Monsieur Tape Très Dur II/5 142
Le Monde des Glaces II/5 110
L’Ennui du Vice III/5 113 Les Moulins II/4 45 133
L’Ensemble de Mandelbrot V/6+ 137
Le Passage II/M8/5+ 133 Les Moulins Integrale III/6 45 Moulins de mon Coeur V/M9/6 45
Le Perthuis II/3 59
Le Petit Blue II/3+ 61 Les Moulins – Le Cigare II/6 Moulins II/4 45
Le Peuple des Berges I/M5+ 151 Les Moulins par le Goulotte de Gauche III/4+ 45
Le Point G IV/M8/6+ 144 99 Moulins Integrale III/6 45
Le Prix de la Consolation II/4 75
Le Pylone I/4 55 Les Nains des Ravines IV/4 Moulins – Le Cigare II/6 Alpe
L’Érection Réunionnaise II/5+ 113 99 Moulins par le Goulotte de Gauche III/4+ 45 d'Huez
Le Requin Blanc I/M7 143 Les Naufrageurs III/3 34 145
Le Retour des Anciens II/4+ 106
Lerie III/5+ 43 Les Nœuds du 27 BCA II/3 69 Mur Blanc I/4 91 La Grave
Le Saut de la Pucelle (Left Side) II/3+ 51 36
Le Saut de la Pucelle (Right Side) II/3+ 51 Les Parallèles – Left II/4+ 69 Mur de Randon I/2+ – I/4+
Les Aventuriers de l’Ice Perdue III/4 104 My Name is Bond II/4+
Les Bidochons I/4 140 Les Parallèles – Right II/3 101 171
Les Chandelles Fuegiennes III/6 127
Les Chemins Lumineux I/3+ 145 Les Pas Papotent II/5 122 Nadia II/4 99 Diable
Le Schtroumpf I/M5 143
Les Crapauds Iangoureux II/3 34 Les Pieds Nickelésle Retour I/6 30 Nains des Ravines IV/4 99
Les Dames Font du Tricot II/4+ 37
Les Dégaines de Claire II/3+ 100 Les Piliers du Ciel I/4+ 128 Naufrageurs III/3 141
Les Deux PP II/3+ 37 93
Les Eaux de Mortelune II/4+ 64 Les Racines du Ciel VI/6+/6b/A2 30 Niette I/M5+ Laurichard
Les Étourdis II/4+ 58 No Éthique II/M5+
Les Farçats II/2 71 Les Rennais Volants II/5+ 140 34
Les Formes du Chaos II/4 158
Les Fouineurs III/3+ 124 Les Simsons I/4+ 56 Nœuds du 27 BCA II/3 114 Vallouise
Les Frères de la Côte III/4+ 107
Les Galans Cigare de Droite II/5+ 47 Les Valseuses II/4+ 123 Nouilles York II/4 60

Les Visiteurs III/5+ Nous Irons Tous au Paradis IV/4 135
Les Zombis se Cachent Pour Ouvrir II/3+ 75 58
44 Nouvelle Collection II/6/7b+ Cervières
L’Éto e de Droite IV/6+ Nuit Sera Fraîche II/3+
44 44
L’Éto e des Blaireaux IV/6 123 Obsession III/6 113 Fournel

Le Troisième Oeil IV/6+/M6+/A0 160 Oeil de Tortue II/3+ 113

Le Y (Branche de Droite) II/3+ 154 Oeil de Torture II/4+ 143
151 Freissinières
l’Hoche Pendantes I/3 to I/4 107 OGM I/M4
Oh’Ice! I/4
L’Homo Aquaticus III/4+ 108 81

Libérez les Lutins IV/4+ 126 Open 89 Direct II/4 81 Aiguilles
63
L’Inachevée III/6/6a 119 Open 89 I/3+
Orgasme III/4+
Lingerie Fine III/4
L’Integrale par le Cigare de Droite III/5+ 47 69
141 Oublie-Moi II/4+ 135 Ceillac

LN I/3+ 106 Over the Top VI/7 107

L’Oeil du Cyclone II/4 149 Palais Bleu II/4 127
103
Lombard’IN (Centre) I/4 149 Pal’Ice III/4 Crévoux
Papy Fait de la Résistance II/5
Lombard’IN (Left) I/4 149 150

Lombard’IN (Right) I/4 93 Parad’Ice I/5 73 Les Orres

L’Tube II/6 140 Paradice III/4+ 69

Madame Tape Dur II/4 102 Parallèles – Left II/4+ 69

Mais je Rêve II/3 Parallèles – Right II/3
Malheur à Celui qui n’a Rien Compris M5+ 39 32
153 Par Inadvertance II/4 123

Malrif’Fi I/4 153 Pas d’Arrangement II/M6+ 72

Malrif’Fi I/5 37 Pas de Bol III/4 70

Mari de Guide II/3+ 55 Pas de TS pour Miss F II/5 101

Mauvais Années 1 I/3 55 Pas Papotent II/5 133

Mauvais Années 2 I/3+ 74 Passage II/M8/5+ 46

Maxi Dure et Micropure I/5+ 119 Passion d’Amour II/4 75
138
Méduse III/4+ 35 Patience I/3 Index
Paulo Folie III/3+
Menace II/3

180 INDEX Overview Map Page 6

Peace Concept III/5/M4 136 Right Side I/6 159 Tu Meurs Plus Con I/5 118
149 Rock on the Beast I/3+ 154 Un Certain Malaise III/4+ 48
Contents Pendules et Pendulettes (C) I/5 149 Ruisseau du Grand Clot (Grand Couloir) III/4 47 153

Pendules et Pendulettes (L) I/4 149 Saint Domingue I/M5 Un Chemin vers la Joie I/M4 48
142 Une Étrange A aire III/4+
Area Map Pendules et Pendulettes (R) I/4 168 Sanglinolent I/M5 152 Une Fusée pour Nulle Part I/M4 153
Overview Père Magliore M8
138 Sans Nom II/3 64 Un Jour, il y Perda la Vie M6 39
Per de Albion III/3+ 117 Sans Nom II/4 69 Unknown I/3 30

Intro Périphérique Est II/5 117 Saut de la Pucelle (Left Side) II/3+ 51 Unknown I/3 30
Périphérique Oest II/5+
59 Saut de la Pucelle (Right Side) II/3+ 51 Unknown II/4 30
Perthuis II/3 63 Sa Voisine III/6 100 Unknown II/4 85
Grades Peter Pan / L’Ille au Trésor III/4+ 61 Schiste d’Envol III/5 51 Unknown I/M? 159

Petit Blue II/3+ 93 Schtroumpf I/M5 143 Unnamed Gully II/4 81
151 Scotch on the Rock II/4 36 Unnamed I/2 84
How to Use Petit Bourget II/4 63 Scottish Blues II/5 70 Unnamed II/3+ 86
Peuple des Berges I/M5+ 30 Seconde Vie IV/5+ 68 Unnamed II/3+ 87
122 Sentinelle II/4 68 Unnamed II/3+ 87
Suggested Phantasme II/5
Areas Pibomaniaque II/4+
Pieds Nickelésle Retour I/6
106 Sergent Garcia I/M6 142 Unnamed II/4+ 86
Pilier de Cristal III/5+ 30 Sergio V/5+ 129 Un Rail de Dry I/M7 142

Piliers du Ciel I/4+ 143 Sexy Gully II/4+ 104 Un Univers Impitorable M5 39

Pistoleros II/4+ 118 Shimshal III/6 144 Vagabondages III/5/M5 124
101 Valseuses II/4+ 56
Alpe Plus con tu Meurs I/M6+
d'Huez Plus t’es Rigide, Plus t’es Risible II/M5 92 Siby Volante II/3+
144 Simsons I/4+ 140 Variante de Quartier Nord III/M10 135
Point G IV/M8/6+ 31 Smor a III/5 111 Variante de Sortie de Jolly Stumpert II/6+ 86
153 Sodomice I/M6+
La Grave Poisse II/3 133 Sombre Héros I/5 159 Variante Franclay III/6 133
Pont Violet I/M6 158 Vendredi 13 V/6/M5+/6a 137

Pour une Poignée de Glaçons IV/6
Diable Prédator V/6 126 Sortie des Artistes II/4+ 106 Verge du Démon II/5+ 76
126 Source des Dieux II/5+ 58 Vermicelle II/5+ 161
Prédatrice V/6/M6 159 Sourire Kabyle II/3+ 102 Vertical II/4 62
75 Sous le Soleil de Satan V/5+/M7 136 Via Gramusat IV/6/M6/7a 135
Laurichard Prends Moi Sec! II/M7+
Prix de la Consolation II/4
151 Sous l’Oeil des Choucas V/6/M5+/6a/A2 128 Vie Aventureuse II/M5+ 93
Professeur Moulinol I/M4 49 Stalactus II/4 34 Vision Basse II/4 97

Vallouise Promenade du Matheysin II/3+ 168 Starsky et Hutch II/4 36 Vision de Marco II/3 96

Promocion Social M10 70 Subi y la Besée III/3+ 103 Vision du Vioco III/2+ 138
38 Supercramp Direct II/4 35 Visiteurs III/5+ 123
Cervières Provençale III/6
Pygmalion I/3
55 Supercramp II/4 35 Vive Comme l’Eau Claire II/5+
Pylone I/4 135 Super Goulotte II/3 102 Vivement la Gaufre Direct II/4 55

Fournel Quartier Nord III/M10 117 Super Misère II/3+ 36 Vivement la Gaufre II/4 31
Quasimodo III/4+
117 Super Zampa II/3+ 37 Voie Astier II/M4+ 31
Quasi Mot d’Eau II/5+ 149 Suprême Dimension III/4 48 Voie Ibarra II/M6 36
Freissinières Queyras’IN I/4 149 Swing 142 Voie Italienne II/M6+ 93

Queyr’Ice (L) I/3 149 Symphonie d’Automne II/4 33 Voie Scie... La Voilà I/3+ 93
128 Tahiti Douche II/5 143 Vol du Bourdon II/4+
Aiguilles Queyr’Ice (R) I/4 75 Taupe V/6+/M8/6a 125 Wild Girl III/4+ 56
Racines du Ciel VI/6+/6b/A2 70

Rage de Vivre II/4 107
Ceillac Rage d’Ouvrir II/4+ 75 The End III/M8+/6+ 131 Yao, Fils de la Jungle II/4+
39 Tomawack I/3+ 30 Y (Branche de Droite) II/3+ 56
Rampe de Neige I/2 160
136 Zombis se Cachent Pour Ouvrir II/3+
Crévoux Rampe Oblique II/3+ 55 Tombe la Chemise IV/6/M6+ 92 ZZ Top II/4 75
Ravin de Choudane I/3+ 152 Tomber Mais pas Jouer II/M5 32
84 Torrent de Gramusat IV/4 129
Ravin de Crousagnes I/2 124
152 Torrent de Naval III/3
Les Orres Ravin de Strandès I/3+ 170 Total Chacal IV/4 63

Regina II/5 127 Tournée du Bosniaqu III/6 100

Regl’Ice III/5 30 Tournee du Patron III/6+ 55

Rennais Volants II/5+ 72 Toxic Waste III/6+ 102

Répétition II/4 77 Triphasée II/4 38

Répulsion II/5 143 Trois Hommes et un Coup Fin III/5 111

Requin Blanc I/M7 70 Troisième Oeil IV/6+/M6+/A0 123

Résolution de l’Eau Nue II/4+ 101 Trois pour Quatre II/4 32

Résurgence III/5 106 Tropican’Ice I/4+ 122

Retour des Anciens II/4+ 142 Trufasse III/3 114
59 Try le Dry II/M4 143
Index Reve de Chips I/M5
Rif de Puy Vachier II/3+