Rjukan | Selected Ice Climbs

RJUKANOxfordAlpineClub

Selected

Ice Climbs
1ST EDITION | by Steve Broadbent



RJUKAN

Selected Ice Climbs

1ST EDITION | 2017

An Oxford Alpine Club Guide

by Steve Broadbent

4 INTRODUCTION Overview Map Page 6

Contents Acknowledgements
Production of this guidebook would not have been possible without the assistance of many people. Firstly, I must thank Dave and Lina Arthur
Area Map for providing the initial inspiration, and Leanne Common and Aileen Robertson for putting up with frustrating research, lots of belaying, and
Overview a disproportionately large number of walk-ins, sometimes in waist-deep snow (or worse). Material was also provided by Sven Letourneau,
Paul Hennelly, Tony Moody, Peri Stracchino, Tim Bateman, Steve Boote, Jo Goodson, Keith Leonard, Robert Maloney and Alex Ekins, and I
Intro thank them all for their valuable contributions.
Of course we also owe huge gratitude to all of the pioneer Rjukan climbers and previous guidebook writers who not only opened up this
The climbing paradise to the world, but did such a great job in documenting their endeavours. Specifically, Jon Haukåssveen and Tom Bordevik
Climbing first opened our eyes to Rjukan with their excellent guide, without which the valley would have remained an obscure backwater.
And finally, thanks to Katja and Lina for their continued work as proof-readers and general encouragement throughout yet another time-
How to consuming project.
Use Steve Broadbent
June 2017
Suggested
Areas

Gausetdalen

Gøystdal
Mæl &
Jailhouse
Bølgen

Ozzimosis

Gausta

Svadde
Rjukan
Centre
Lower Gorge
Vemork
Bridge
Upper Gorge

Krokan

History

Index

Overview Map Page 6 Contents | INTRODUCTION 5

CONTENTS Contents

Area Overview Map 6 Area Map
Crag Selector 7 Overview
Introduction
9 Intro
Guidebook Philosophy 9
When to Visit
Getting to Rjukan 10 The
Car Hire Climbing
Driving Conditions 12
Public Transport How to
Local Information 13 Use
Accommodation
Provisions 13 Suggested
Other Services 13 Areas
Climbing Gear
Tourist Attractions 14
Skiing
Climbing Information 14
Other Places to Climb
Objective Dangers 14
Equipment
Grades 15
How to use this Guidebook
Recommended Areas 15
The climbing areas:
Gausetdalen 15
Gøystdal 17 Gausetdalen
Mæl & Jailhouse
Bølgen 18
Ozzimosis 18 Gøystdal
Gausta Area
Svadde Area 20 Mæl &
Rjukan Centre 23 Jailhouse
Lower Gorge
Vemork Bridge 24 Bølgen
Upper Gorge 25
Krokan
A Brief History of Rjukan 26 Ozzimosis
Route Index
28 Gausta
34
38 Svadde
44 Rjukan
50 Centre
54 Lower Gorge
58
62 Vemork
70 Bridge
78 Upper Gorge
86
98 Krokan
104
108

History

Looking down on the Rjukan Valley from the Gaustablikk ski centre. Index
Photo: Steve Broadbent

6 INTRODUCTION | Area Overview Overview Map Page 6

Contents Orientation map on page 28

Area Map Gausetdalen
Overview
Orientation map on page 34
Intro
Gøystdal
The
Climbing

How to
Use

Suggested
Areas

Austbygde
Atra

Gausetdalen 364

Kong Vinter Orientation map on page 38

Mæl & Jailhouse

Mæl & Crag map on page 45 Miland
Jailhouse
Bølgen Bølgen

Ozzimosis Crag map on page 58 37

Gausta Svadde Mæl

Svadde Crag map on page 70 37
Rjukan
Centre Lower Gorge

Crag map on page 86 Rjukan Gaustablikk

Upper Gorge

Lower Gorge Crag map on page 50
Vemork
Bridge Ozzimosis

Upper Gorge 37 Crag map on page 54
Crag map on page 78
Krokan Gausta
Vemork Bridge

Crag map on page 98 Crag map on page 62 N

Krokan Rjukan Centre

History

Rjukan Valley Overview

Index 0 2km 4km 6km 8km

Overview Map Page 6 Crag Selector | INTRODUCTION 7

CRAG SELECTOR Contents

Whether you're looking for long full-day adventures or straightforward ice cragging, Rjukan has plenty Area Map
to offer throughout the grades. Overview
Amongst the various sectors of the main gorge you'll find some of Norway's most famous ice routes,
from the intimidating test-piece climbs in the majestic Upper Gorge, to the fantastically accessible Intro
icefalls at Vemork Bridge, and the pleasant cragging in the Lower Gorge.
Further downstream, and in stark contrast to the confines of the gorge, the steep valley walls above The
Rjukan Centre, Svadde and Bølgen offer long, open multi-pitch climbs up to 17 pitches in length, some Climbing
of which are floodlit at night.
Further afield, the remote and committing amphitheatres of Kong Vinter in Gøystdal and Mæl provide How to
an escape from the crowds in an atmospheric setting, whilst the world-class ice crags of Krokan and Use
Ozzimosis are venues not to miss.
The table below summarises what's available in each area, and will hopefully assist first-time visitors in Suggested
choosing a venue. There's also a list of recommendations on page 26 to help choose a crag based on Areas
various other criteria.

Page Area Name Conditions and type of routes Walk-in WI1-2 WI3-4 WI5-6 WI7/M Summary

28 Gausetdalen SHADE CRAGGING MULTI TROOPPE 10 - 90 mins 1 14 2 0 Away from the crowds Gausetdalen
34 Gøystdal PITCH
38 Mæl & Jailhouse
44 Bølgen SHADE CRAGGING MULTI TROOPPE 30 - 45 mins 0 12 3 0 Atmospheric climbing on some Gøystdal
50 Ozzimosis PITCH 45 mins 0 5 2 classic mid-grade icefalls
54 Gausta Mæl &
58 Svadde SHADE CRAGGING MULTI TROOPPE 15 - 40 mins 2 6 3 0 Adventurous routes Jailhouse
62 Rjukan Centre PITCH
70 Lower Gorge Bølgen
78 Vemork Bridge SHADE CRAGGING MULTI TROOPPE 1 Long multi-pitch routes and hard
86 Upper Gorge PITCH mixed testpieces
98 Krokan
SHADE CRAGGING MULTI TROOPPE 5 - 10 mins 4 11 1 2 Roadside ice cragging Ozzimosis
PITCH

SHADE CRAGGING MULTI TROOPPE 50 - 75 mins 1 11 2 1 Remote, early season ice Gausta
PITCH

SHADE CRAGGING MULTI TROOPPE 30 - 45 mins 2 7 1 0 Some classic and very long routes Svadde
PITCH

SHADE CRAGGING MULTI TROOPPE 20 - 60 mins 2 14 6 1 Sunshine, floodlights, and Rjukan
PITCH great views Centre

SHADE CRAGGING MULTI TROOPPE 10 - 50 mins 3 17 2 1 Pleasant, sheltered cragging Lower Gorge
PITCH

SHADE CRAGGING MULTI TROOPPE 10 - 15 mins 2 10 1 1 Easy access, and two of the Vemork
PITCH 10 - 30 mins 1 10 8 valley's classic climbs Bridge

SHADE CRAGGING MULTI TROOPPE 6 Classic, world-class ice climbs in Upper Gorge
PITCH an intimidating setting

SHADE CRAGGING MULTI TROOPPE 10 - 15 mins 1 9 12 21 One of the world's best ice crags Krokan
PITCH

History
Index

8 INTRODUCTION Overview Map Page 6
The industrial town of Rjukan: one of
Contents Europe's best ice climbing destinations.
Area Map
Overview Photo: Steve Broadbent

Intro
The
Climbing
How to
Use
Suggested
Areas

Gausetdalen
Gøystdal
Mæl &
Jailhouse
Bølgen
Ozzimosis
Gausta
Svadde
Rjukan
Centre

Lower Gorge
Vemork
Bridge

Upper Gorge
Krokan

History
Index

Overview Map Page 6 INTRODUCTION 9

INTRODUCTION GUIDEBOOK PHILOSOPHY Contents
Area Map
As an ice climbing destination, Rjukan needs little The Norwegian climbing scene is famously Overview
introduction; since the late nineties it has grown as guarded when it comes to publicising climbing
one of the premiere destinations in Europe – if not achievements and first ascents – a philosophy Intro
the world – providing some of the most reliable that goes a long way towards making Norwegian The
and easily accessible ice to be found anywhere. climbing the superb adventure that it is, in which Climbing
Here you will find a tremendous variety of almost every climb feels like a first ascent. Rjukan How to
climbing, ranging from huge multi-pitch icefalls has been one of the very few valleys to even begin Use
running the full height of the valley walls, to the to depart from this tradition, and the publication Suggested
world-class test-piece routes of the Upper Gorge, of the RockFax Heavy Water guidebook in 2005 Areas
and of course the roadside ice-cragging venues of threw this small industrial valley into the limelight
Ozzimosis and Krokan. These are familiar names to in a way never before seen in Norwegian climbing. Gausetdalen
most ice climbers, and alongside globally famous That guidebook has been out of print for a number
routes such as Lipton and Juvsøyla, they place of years now, and although updated information Gøystdal
Rjukan well and truly on the ice climbing map. has been available online, the need for a basic Mæl &
Great ice climbing can, of course, be found guidebook to this superb climbing has become Jailhouse
throughout the higher latitudes, but few places increasingly clear, as Rjukan remains a destination Bølgen
offer such friendly accessibility as Rjukan, where with worldwide appeal.
a huge concentration of excellent climbs can be The aim of this latest edition, therefore, is to Ozzimosis
found within thirty minutes or so from the road. provide overseas visitors with enough information
Add to this a welcoming local population, cheap and inspiration to experience the best of Rjukan
flights from most of Europe, and excellent skiing ice climbing. It should be noted that this is a
for rest days, and you've got a winter destination selective guidebook aimed at visiting climbers, and
not to be missed. does not seek to be an authoritative document.
Indeed, many icefalls have been climbed in the
surrounding area but are not included in this
book – such routes have seen little traffic and will
continue to provide wild, remote adventures for
local climbers and Rjukan enthusiasts, with every
ascent providing the 'first-ascent' experience for
which Norwegian climbing is so renowned.

Approach to Krokan – Norway's premiere ice 'crag'. Gausta
Photo: Steve Broadbent Svadde

Rjukan
Centre

Lower Gorge

Vemork
Bridge

Upper Gorge

Krokan

History
Index

10 INTRODUCTION | When to Visit Overview Map Page 6

Contents Rjukan town square, illuminated by light from the sun-mirrors in February. The statue of
Sam Eyde, who first attempted to bring winter sun to Rjukan, stands in the background.
Area Map Today, this small patch of reflected light is the only sunlight in the town centre between
Overview mid September and early March.

Intro

The
Climbing

How to
Use

Suggested
Areas

Gausetdalen

Gøystdal

Mæl &
Jailhouse

Bølgen WHEN TO VISIT Typical Rjukan temperatures throughout the season:
0˚C
Ozzimosis Rjukan's relatively long winter climbing season -10˚C
is one of its great assets, and it is usually possible
Gausta to climb here from mid December to late March, October
with ascents sometimes being recorded as early as November
Svadde October, and well into April. December
Rjukan The reliable conditions here owe much to the
Centre geography of the valley – this is one of few valleys January
Lower Gorge in Norway that run in an east-west direction, February
Vemork meaning that the north-facing slopes are without
Bridge sun for the entire winter. Indeed the deep, March
Upper Gorge steep-sided nature of the valley ensures that April
even the town goes without direct sunlight from
Krokan mid September to early March, when the locals
celebrate the annual return of sunshine.
History In general, mid January through to the end of
February is prime Rjukan climbing season, offering
reliably cold conditions and lengthening days.
By mid march, the sunlit icefalls on the north
side of the valley tend to melt away, although
plenty of routes generally stay in condition on the
south side of the valley, where climbers can take
advantage of the long days.

Index

Overview Map Page 6 When to Visit | INTRODUCTION 11
Leanne Common descending from Gaustaspøkelse (WI4) at Krokan. This
popular ice crag is one of Europe's most popular ice climbing venues, Contents
with a short approach and convenient abseil descents. Page 101.
Area Map
Photo: Steve Broadbent Overview

Intro

The
Climbing
How to

Use
Suggested

Areas

Gausetdalen

Gøystdal
Mæl &
Jailhouse
Bølgen

Ozzimosis

Gausta

Svadde
Rjukan
Centre
Lower Gorge
Vemork
Bridge
Upper Gorge

Krokan

History

Index

20 INTRODUCTION | Objective Dangers Overview Map Page 6
What can possibly go wrong?
Contents
Photo: Paul Hennelly
Area Map
Overview

Intro

The
Climbing
How to

Use
Suggested

Areas

Gausetdalen

Gøystdal

Mæl &
Jailhouse

Bølgen OBJECTIVE DANGERS caused by rapid cooling can create dangerously
brittle ice – protection is difficult to place, and free-
Ozzimosis It goes without saying that ice climbing and hanging formations may collapse.
winter mountaineering are dangerous activities, Similarly, the effects of sunshine and high
Gausta and ascents described in this book should only temperatures have obvious effects on the ice.
be undertaken by suitably experienced climbers. Whilst a mild freeze-thaw cycle adds to the
Svadde For visitors with limited water-ice experience, stability, sustained warm temperatures can cause
Rjukan numerous local climbing guides are available. tension within the outer layers, followed by thaw
Centre Despite the often 'crag-like' atmosphere of Rjukan and structural weakening.
Lower Gorge climbing, serious accidents and fatalities occur Climbers wishing to climb free-hanging formations
Vemork on an almost annual basis. The following list are therefore advised to study conditions carefully,
Bridge represents a few of the main dangers presented to as many of the classic icicles described in this
Upper Gorge climbers in the valley: guide usually collapse at least once or twice each
season.
Krokan ! Ice Conditions
! Avalanches
History Conditions on routes described in this guidebook
can vary enormously from year to year, and as Once again, the friendly nature of valley ice-
Index such grades should be taken as guidelines only. climbing in Rjukan can mask a serious avalanche
Newly formed ice is often poorly bound, with threat, and climbers are advised to approach
numerous air pockets within it. A repeated cycle of climbs with caution. Norway's northerly location,
minor temperature variations will remove these air and extensive and mountainous Atlantic coast
pockets, causing the ice to become more solid and means that annual snowfall is much greater than
easier to protect towards the end of the season. that in the European Alps, with up to 20 metres of
During periods of extreme cold, however, icicles snowfall in a typical winter season.
tend to contract, and tension in the outer layers

Overview Map Page 6 Objective Dangers | INTRODUCTION 21

Extended periods of cold weather often see huge Contents
build-ups of powder, without the stabilising
influence of the sun. Rapid temperature changes Area Map
are possible at any time of year, and warm humid Overview
air from the Atlantic replacing the cold continental
air mass can result in sudden instability in existing Intro
snowpack. Strong winds, typical on higher slopes
throughout the winter, also create unstable The
windslab that adds to the avalanche risk. Climbing

! Frozen Rivers How to
Use
Several of the climbs described in this guidebook
are accessed across frozen rivers, and care Suggested
should be taken to assess the strength of the ice Areas
underfoot – just because previous footprints lead
out onto the ice doesn't mean that it is still load Gausetdalen
bearing. Remember that water levels in the river
are partially controlled by the hydro scheme, and a Gøystdal
sudden drop in the water level underneath the ice Mæl &
will lead to a significant risk of falling through the Jailhouse
unsupported sheet of ice. Bølgen

! Hydro Plant Releases Ozzimosis

The Måna river, which runs through the gorge, is Gausta
part of an extensive hydro scheme which includes
the Vemork and Såheim power plants. Water is Svadde
diverted from various points in the upper valley Rjukan
for power generation, and can be released from Centre
power plant outflows with little or no warning. Lower Gorge
Rjukanfossen is released to full flow each year, and Vemork
although this usually occurs in the summertime, Bridge
the hydro company could do this at any time. Upper Gorge
When this happens, the main fall and large parts
of the Upper Gorge are flooded. If you receive Krokan
warning of an imminent release then you should
abseil to the ground (if within reach with a single History
abseil) or top out as quickly as possible. Leave all Index
nonessential equipment behind and vacate the
gorge floor.
Trollfossen is one of the main outflows from the
new (underground) Vemork power plant and can
release huge quantities of water with no warning.
These releases will be fatal for anyone climbing
the waterfall at the time, and for this reason this
waterfall should not be attempted. It is shown on
the map on page 78, but not described in the text
of this guide.
Vemorkbrufoss Vest sees frequent small releases
of water throughout the winter, and evidence of
these can often be seen in the form of discoloured
ice or washed-away snow. Although these releases
are usually short-lived, caution is advised.

Unknown climbers on the magnificent pillar of
Juvsøyla (WI6) in the Upper Gorge. Page 92.
Photo: Tony Moody

24 INTRODUCTION | Grades Overview Map Page 6

Contents GRADES chipped all the way up them, are likely to feel
considerably easier than an un-climbed pillar of
Area Map It should be emphasised that the difficulty of the same grade.
Overview ice climbs can and does vary considerably from It is, therefore, important to treat any grades
week to week and season to season. Icefalls form suggested in this guidebook as nothing more than
Intro differently every year, meaning that in some years loose guidelines – bear in mind that routes are
some routes will simply be steeper, thinner, or less frequently up to one full grade harder or easier,
The featured than in other years, and may feel more and be prepared to use your experience and
Climbing difficult than the grade suggests. judgement to assess the likely difficulty of a route
Atmospheric conditions will also have considerable prior to setting out.
How to impact on the difficulty of a climb, and following Routes are graded according to the Norwegian
Use periods of extreme cold weather, even easy Water Ice (WI) or Mixed (M) grading systems, which
climbs may feature dangerous, brittle ice in which make use of a single grade to describe the overall
Suggested protection is difficult to arrange. In these conditions difficulty of a route. It is, therefore, possible for a
Areas they can quickly turn into very serious undertakings. route to have a short section of much steeper ice
A third factor to affect the difficulty of ice routes than the grade would imply. The grading table
is the number of recent ascents: popular routes below attempts to give some description as to
at Krokan, for example, with positive placements what is expected at each grade.

Norwegian Water Ice grades Scottish Mixed

Gausetdalen WI2 WI1 45° or lower angled snow slopes. 2 M5
Routes of this grade are usually 45° slabs interspersed with short steep steps through 3 M6
Gøystdal overlaps, or long low-angle waterfalls. Conditions can vary considerably, particularly during M7
Mæl & periods of thaw (when they can get quite thin) or under snow cover (when they can be quite
Jailhouse awkward).
Bølgen
WI7 WI6 WI5+ WI5 WI4+ WI4 WI3+ WI3 Sustained ice climbing on faces between 60° and 75° or routes with short vertical steps less 4
Ozzimosis than three metres in height.
Routes with more sustained steep sections. The ability to place ice screws on steep ground is 5
Gausta essential at this grade. 6
Big route climbing or sustained ice climbing steeper than 75°, often with long sections in 7
Svadde between possible rests. 8
Rjukan Long, sustained pitches just off vertical, or stepped pitches with vertical sections exceeding
Centre five metres in length.
Lower Gorge Long, sustained pitches with vertical sections often exceeding seven metres in length. Multi-
Vemork pitch routes will require high levels of fitness and stamina.
Bridge Big-time vertical ice climbing, requiring excellent technique and the ability to place ice
Upper Gorge screws whilst hanging from one tool.
Routes of this grade were cutting edge relatively recently, and will often contain technically
Krokan difficult climbing that is difficult to protect. They require exceptionally high levels of
strength, skill, and experience.

Overhanging, poorly adhered columns on which good protection is almost impossible.

History 9
Index M8

Overview Map Page 6 How to use this Guidebook | INTRODUCTION 25

HOW TO USE THIS GUIDEBOOK Area Map on page 6 Recommended Contents
parking spot.
This guidebook describes the best and most KROKAN Area Map
popular climbing around the north end of Lake Crag sector not Overview
Tinnsjø and along the Rjukan valley, broken Map title, with page P described in
down into 12 geographic areas or chapters. These reference to the area this chapter. Intro
chapters are listed on convenient 'thumb tabs' overview map at the
down the side of each page, making it easy to The
quickly flick to an area of interest. front of this book Climbing
Crag Maps
At the start of each chapter is a crag map, which P How to
shows the location of each route topo in that Use
chapter, along with parking spots and approach Crag sector or
routes. topo location. Suggested
For areas that contain more than one crag, or Areas
have different 'sub-areas', an orientation map is
provided, showing the location of each sub-area Fission Bowl p100
crag map. In these cases, the crag map will show a Private parking
page reference back to the orientation map. (skidoo centre)
Topos
Routes are generally described left to right, Approach Left End p99 Gausetdalen
working upstream. For the occasional route route.
located on the opposite bank of the river, topos Kjøkkentrappa p100 Gøystdal
are annotated "North Side", and the upstream A Mæl &
convention may lead to occasional incidences of Abseil Jailhouse
right-to left numbering. Topos are labelled with approach. Bølgen
the following approach and aspect symbols:
Crag Map on page 86 North Side Ozzimosis
SHADE This area sees little sunshine.
Sunshine in the morning. SHADE 15m UPPER GORGE | Lettvann Gausta

AM Aspect and Indicates that Svadde
approach this route is on Rjukan
Sunshine in the afternoon. symbols. the 'opposite' Centre
Lower Gorge
PM side of the Vemork
gorge. Bridge
Plenty of sunshine. Upper Gorge
Suggested
5m Approximate approach time in minutes. belay. Krokan

Route Descriptions 3
Precise route and pitch lengths are not given, as
these can vary depending on ice formation each History
year. Instead, an approximate number of pitches is Index
indicated for routes longer than a single pitch.
For routes requiring rock protection, the following
additional symbols are used:
GEAR This route may require rock protection.

This route has protection bolts.

BOLTS

A standard star rating is used to give an idea of the
quality of each route in an average season, though
this will of course depend on the formation each
year.

36 GØYSTDAL | The Kong Vinter Gorge Map Page 34

Contents N Orientation Map on page34

Area Map KONG VINTER
Overview
bridge Bekkenløsningen WI3 0 250m 500m 750m 1km
Intro
Cut left at Kong Neptune WI4
The building King Kong WI5
Climbing
A
How to
Use Kong Vinter WI4 P

Suggested Kong Bore WI4
Areas

Lifoss WI4

Gausetdalen

Gøystdal Kong Vinter 3. Unnamed M4 GEAR
Mæl &
Jailhouse With a wild and remote feel to it, the Kong Vinter 2 pitches. This is the narrow icefall immediately left of Kong
Bølgen gorge is a highly recommended destination, Bore, finishing up a narrow chimney, where rock protection
with some long and spectacular pitches. may be useful.
Ozzimosis
Approach: Park at the end of the Gøystdal road 4. Kong Bore WI4
Gausta and continue along the track on foot, crossing
a small bridge over the gorge just after the 2 pitches. The impressive icewall on the far side of the
Svadde track bends left. Keep going to a small building gorge offers a steep pitch of sustained climbing. The second
Rjukan on the right, where it is possible to cut down pitch is usually easier.
Centre through the trees to the top of the gorge's north
wall (about 30 minutes). To reach the base of Jan StenstrØm & Gunnar Johansen, 1994.
the routes it is then necessary to abseil into the
gorge – either via a 60m abseil next to a huge 5. Kong Left WI4
boulder at the top of Kong Vinter, or a two-pitch 2 pitches. Two short ice pillars to the left of the second
abseil from the top of Kong Neptun. pitch of Lifoss, gained via the first pitch of that route.

Lower Gorge The first couple of climbs are located in the canyon 6. Lifoss WI4
Vemork on the way up to the main gorge. Approach 2 pitches. The main icefall at the back of the gorge is a
Bridge through the woods before reaching a small superb climb, and somewhat less sustained than many
footbridge. routes hereabouts.
Upper Gorge
Krokan 1. Bekkenløsningen WI3 7. Kong Vinter WI4+
1 pitch. Slabby ice up the left-hand side of the waterfall, to
History the left of central overhanging rock. 1-2 pitches. This is the wide wall of ice to the right of
Index the central Lifoss waterfall. Many options exist, generally
2. Ischialgi WI4 getting more difficult towards the right-hand side, which
1 pitch. The steep curtain of ice to the right of the central may form a well-defined, steep pillar. In some years the line
overhang. combines with the left-hand variant of King Kong.
The remaining routes are located in the main
gorge. Jon Haukåssveen & Halvard Arntzen, 1994.

8. King Kong WI5+
1-2 pitches. To the right of Kong Vinter is an impressive
hanging ice-pillar that gives one of the area's most sought-
after routes. In some years the pillar forms on the left side of

Map Page 34 The Kong Vinter Gorge | GØYSTDAL 37

Crag Map on page36 Contents

SHADE 30m KONG VINTER | Left Area Map
Overview

Intro

5 A The
5 Climbing

How to
Use

Suggested
Areas

34 8b

6
7
8

the steep rock, close to Kong Vinter; in other years it forms the centre of the gorge's north wall, sometimes featuring Gausetdalen
to the right, next to Dronninga – either way it provides a some quite thin ice on the top section.
demanding and sustained climb of the highest quality. Gøystdal
Arild Arnesen & JØrn Wikerholmen, 2005. Mæl &
Arild Arnesen & JØrn Wikerholmen, 2005. Jailhouse
11. Prinsesse Snøfnugg WI3+ GEAR Bølgen
9. Dronninga WI4
2 pitches. Climb slabby ice to a belay on the left, then 1 pitch. Start from the mid-height abseil point (tree) and Ozzimosis
head rightwards up a series of pillars to the top. move left to follow icy steps into the finishing gully. This
often involves some mixed climbing. Gausta
Arild Arnesen & JØrn Wikerholmen, 2005.
Steinar Laumann & JØrn Wikerholmen, 2005. Svadde
10. Silikon WI4
1-2 pitches. This route follows a vague groove system up 12. Kong Neptun WI4

A 2 pitches. The gorge's final offering is another very fine
climb up the right-hand side of the north wall. Start up
8b slabby ground for one pitch, then take either of the steep
ice-pillars above to finish.
78
JØrn Wikerholmen & Eirik Sjo, 2005.

Crag Map on page36 Rjukan
Centre
SHADE 30m KONG VINTER | Right
Lower Gorge

Vemork
Bridge

A Upper Gorge

Krokan

11 History
Index
A
12
9 10

64 RJUKAN CENTRE | Tjønnstadberg Map Page 62

Tjønnstadberg North Side

Contents This superbly situated crag sits on the north 7. For Alle Menn WI5
side of the valley, directly above the centre of
Area Map the Rjukan. On sunny days it catches all the 2-3 pitches. Good climbing, starting up a steep ice wall
Overview sunshine there is going, so the ice can suffer to gain the pillar. Exit left or right, depending on how the
during warmer periods. During the long winter ice has formed.
Intro evenings, however, the crag is lit up by spotlights
from the town and it is possible to climb here Jon Haukåsveen & Halvard Arntzen, 1993.
The late into the evening.
Climbing 8. Klappfoss WI4 GEAR
Approach: Park at the west end of Skruigata
How to and walk up a small track (Haddelandsveien) in 3 pitches. The wall to the right often has some quite thin
Use a north-easterly direction. A small trail continues ice and may give mixed climbing in the middle section.
across the hillside, then cuts back left beneath If well formed, it gives a broad wall of ice leading to the
Suggested the routes. right-hand exit of For Alle Menn.
Areas
Mikke Sjøkvist & Anders Nilson, 1993.

6. Solfesten WI5/A2+/M7 GEAR 9. Lysløypa WI4

4 pitches. This challenging route takes thin ice pillars for 3 pitches. The central fall is climbed direct for three
two pitches to a belay underneath roofs at the left side pitches, and gives some interesting climbing in its upper
of the crag. The roof was originally aided at A2+, but has section. Walk right to an abseil descent.
been climbed as a mixed line (possibly a little further
right) at WI6/M7. Finish up and left, then descend from Jon Haukåsveen & Øyvind Moss, 1999.
trees.
Gausetdalen 10. Tjønnstadbergfossen WI4
Jon Haukåsveen & Jan Stenstrøm, 1995 (original finish).
Gøystdal 3-4 pitches. An excellent classic climb that sees many
Mæl & Martin Olslund & Thilo Schrøter, 2011 (free). ascents (both day and night!). The route, which is usually
Jailhouse fairly low in the grade, follows the main waterfall in three
Bølgen pitches to a belay beneath a hanging curtain of ice. Finish
either left (if formed) or right (during thin conditions) to
Ozzimosis an abseil descent through the trees.

Keith Robson, Morten Thorkildsen & Tom Saxlund, 1981.

Crag Map on page 62

20m RJUKAN | Tjønnstadberg

Gausta

Svadde

Rjukan
Centre

Lower Gorge

Vemork
Bridge

Upper Gorge

Krokan

History 6
Index 7

8

9 10

Map Page 62 Sykehusfossen | RJUKAN CENTRE 65

Sykehusfossen North Side

This attractive waterfall is a prominent feature 11. Sykehusfossen WI4 GEAR Contents
on the hillside above the hospital, and can be
clearly seen when driving into Rjukan from the 3 pitches. A good, varied route that often gives some Area Map
east. The approach is strenuous, but worth it for quite tough climbing and may require rock protection in Overview
some excellent climbing. thin conditions. When fully formed the middle pitch gives
an excellent steep pillar. Descend either by abseil, or by Intro
Approach: Park at the west end of Skruigata walking rightwards to the gully as shown.
and walk up a small track (Haddelandsveien) in The
a north-easterly direction. Continue across the Jon Haukåssveen & Robert Saunes, 1992. Climbing
hillside to gain the stream beneath the route.
Allow at least 30 minutes, and often more in Crag Map on page 62 How to
deep snow conditions. Use
30m RJUKAN | Sykehusfossen
Suggested
Areas

Gausetdalen

Gøystdal
Mæl &
Jailhouse
Bølgen
11
Ozzimosis

Gausta

Svadde
Rjukan
Centre
Lower Gorge
Vemork
Bridge
Upper Gorge

Krokan

History

Index

92 UPPER GORGE | Juvsøyla Basin Map Page 86

Contents Juvsøyla & Trappfoss 14. Juvsøyla WI6

Area Map Just beyond the narrow section of the gorge, the ~5 pitches. The magnificent hanging pillar is one of the
Overview ravine swings round a corner into the Juvsøyla most impressive formations in the valley, giving a highly
basin. As the rivers bends right, a major gully sought-after, world-class ice climb. Climb a short ice wall
Intro system leaves the gorge straight ahead, leading to gain the large snowy gully, and follow this to one of
up to a selection of Rjukan's most famous ice- two options. Either:
The climbs. A) follow thin, slabby ice up left to the bottom of the pillar.
Climbing This route can be difficult to protect in lean years; or
Approach: If there is not much snow B) continue to the top of the snow gully, then make a mixed
How to these routes are best approached from the traverse left to the foot of the pillar.
Use Rjukanfossen carpark via the abseil gully (see The pillar itself gives one or two pitches of very steep
map on page 86). When you top out, walk climbing in a commanding position.
Suggested rightwards back to the Rjukanfossen path.
Areas Jon Haukåssveen, Jan Stenstrøm & Bjørge Lie, 1993. Photo page 21.
If there is lots of snow a better option might be
to approach up the gorge from Vemork, then 15. Two Assholes and a Nice Guy WI6 / M5 GEAR
abseil back down the route and reverse the
walk-in, as the traverse to the road can be very 4 pitches. A very serious, thin ice and mixed climb up the
difficult. wall right of Juvsøyla. From the end of the snowy gully
climb ice to belay beneath a roof. Climb through this,
Crag Map on page 86 and on to the end of the ice at another roof. Continue on
poorly protected rock to the top.
SHADE 25m UPPER GORGE | Blindtarmen
Jan Stenstrøm & Thorbørn Ohlèn, 1993.

Gausetdalen 16. Trappfoss WI4

Gøystdal 4 pitches. Yet another classic climb, this time taking the
Mæl & broad icefall to the right of the snowy gully. Start in the
Jailhouse gully as for Juvsøyla, belaying where a ramp formation
Bølgen heads up right. Follow this to gain the icefall, which gives
a further two pitches of excellent ice.
Ozzimosis
Jon Haukåssveen & Jessie Nazareno, 1992. Photo page 96 & 108.

14
15

Gausta

Svadde 16

Rjukan
Centre

Lower Gorge

Vemork
Bridge

Upper Gorge

Krokan

History
Index

Map Page 86 Upper Basin | UPPER GORGE 93

Crag Map on page 86 Contents
Area Map
SHADE 25m ABSEILIN UPPER GORGE | Lipton Overview

Lipton Intro
The
Best approached from the upper parking via the Climbing
abseil gully, though the walk-out back to the How to
road can be hard going in deep snow. Use
Suggested
17. Lipton WI7 GEAR Areas

3 pitches. One of the world's great ice-climbs, lurking Gausetdalen
in the huge groove to the left of Rjukanfossen. Climb
the groove (ice, thin ice, or mixed) to a belay beneath Gøystdal
the roof, where acrobatic moves rightwards gain the Mæl &
hanging chandelier (size 2 cam in the roof). Follow the Jailhouse
ice to a another steep icicle to finish. A very serious climb Bølgen
on which conditions should be assessed very carefully
– these icicles collapse multiple times each winter, and Ozzimosis
serious accidents have occurred here.
Gausta
Carlos Wagner & Franz Fischer, 1995.
Svadde
18. Lipton Direct WI7/M7 GEAR Rjukan
Centre
3 pitches. The right-hand side of the Lipton icicles, with Lower Gorge
protection mostly on the rock. If you're very lucky these Vemork
icicles might connect together to give a very fine pure ice Bridge
route. In these rare conditions this is probably the easier Upper Gorge
of the two routes.
Krokan
Kristen Reagen, 2003.
History
Climbers making the most of excellent conditions on Rjukan's infamous
test-piece Lipton Direct (WI7) in the Upper Gorge. In most years this right- Index
hand variation gives thin mixed climbing, and a line up the left-hand icicle
is usually 'easier'. This page.
Photo: Keith Leonard

17
18

98 KROKAN Map Page 98

Contents KROKAN Area Map on page 6
Area Map MULTI Tunnel
Overview PITCH Approach: 10 minutes KROKAN

Intro SHADE CRAGGING TOP
The ROPE
Climbing
How to With ample parking, a short approach, and P Sector Arne p99
Use some of the valley’s most reliable ice, Krokan is a
Suggested justifiably popular destination, and one of Europe’s Gate
Areas premier ‘ice crags’. There’s plenty to go at here (do not drive beyond here)
across the grade range, from good beginners’
Gausetdalen climbs to the hardest mixed routes in the valley. Fission Bowl p100 P
The routes are all single pitches, between 15 and Private parking
Gøystdal 30 metres in length, and top-ropes are easy to set (skidoo centre) Bridge and
Mæl & up from trees above the climbs. Not surprisingly, hydro dam
Jailhouse the crag can get very busy, particularly at
Bølgen weekends.

Ozzimosis Approach up the valley from Rjukan, passing Take small path Left End p99
through a tunnel above the Upper Gorge and down through Kjøkkentrappa p100
Rjukanfossen. Just after leaving the tunnel there is trees (fixed Bullen Area p101
a large parking area on the right (this is an option if Right End p102
approaching Sector Arne), before the main parking rope)
down a turn-off on the left.

To reach sector Arne, follow a track which leaves
the road between the two parking areas. To reach
the main crag, park in the second parking area
and continue down the private road past a gate
to the skidoo centre. Continue past this for a short
way before cutting left down a small path through
the trees (fixed rope sometimes in place). This
path reaches the crag approximately opposite the
popular route Bullen, from where it is easy to walk
up or down the gorge to any of the other routes.

Gausta Crag Map on page 98

Svadde SHADE 10m KROKAN | Sector Arne
Rjukan
Centre 3
Lower Gorge 4
Vemork
Bridge
Upper Gorge

Krokan

6
5

History

Index

Map Page 98 Left End | KROKAN 99

Crag Map on page 98 Contents

SHADE 10m KROKAN | Left End Area Map
Overview
7
Intro
10 12
11 The
Climbing
89 13 14 17
17 How to
15 16 Use

Suggested
Areas

Sector Arne 8. Unnamed WI3
Climb the ice ramp and wall above.
Home to a handful of very hard mixed routes,
this secluded sector sees little traffic. Approach 9. Unnamed WI3+ Gausetdalen
via the track between the two parking areas to This one can often form some quite steep ice.
the small bridge and hydro dam, from where the
sector is visible on the left. 10. Baktus M7 / WI5 GEAR Gøystdal
Mæl &
Note that the gorge between here and the main Bouldery climbing up the short wall to the hanging ice- Jailhouse
crag offers difficult terrain, and walking between curtain. It is a much more amenable WI5 if the ice reaches Bølgen
the two areas is not recommended. the ground.
Ozzimosis
1. Reven Rasker Over Isen M7 GEAR Christian Eek & Øysten Johnsen, 1998.

Excellent but poorly protected climbing. 11. Karius M7 / WI5 GEAR

Rein Leindal, 2004. WI5 if the ice reaches the ground.

2. What’s the Problem? M9- GEAR Christian Eek & Øysten Johnsen, 1998.

Steep, pumpy climbing up ice smears to the left of Go On. 12. Zendium M7 GEAR Gausta

Will Gadd, 2004. Another desperate offering up to the ice curtain. Svadde

3. Go On M7 GEAR Kristoffer Szillas, 2011. Rjukan
Centre
The right-slanting diagonal. 13. Unnamed WI5
Climbs an iced-up open corned right of Karius. Lower Gorge
Carlos Wagner & Jon Haukåssveen, 2001.
Vemork
4. Arne M9 GEAR Bridge

The centre of the wall to gain the main hanging icicles. 14. Unnamed WI5- Upper Gorge
Short and steep, but mild for the grade with an easy
Stevie Haston, 2000. lower-off.

5. Heavy Water M10- BOLTS

Climb the slab of ice to gain a line of bolts up the rock. 15. Unnamed WI5
The prominent icicle sometimes collapses before reaching
Robert Jasper, 2001. the ground.

6. Starten WI4

Discontinuous ice up the right-hand side of the wall. 16. Unnamed WI5- Krokan
The right-hand icicle is usually an easier proposition than
Left End the previous route, with a choice of finishes. History
Index
A series of good short pitches, reached by 17. Unnamed WI2
walking downstream from Bullen. An excellent and popular climb, with many variations
between WI2 and WI4, depending on conditions and line
7. Unnamed WI2+ chosen.
A short ice pitch with a cave to the left.

100 KROKAN | Sector Kjøkkentrappa Map Page 98

Contents Crag Map on page 98 19 21 26
18 20
Area Map SHADE 10m KROKAN | Kjøkkentrappa Tannpirkeren
Overview (next page)
17
Intro
Left-Hand End
The (previous page)
Climbing

How to
Use

Suggested
Areas

Gausetdalen Sector Kjøkkentrappa AM 10m North Side
Gøystdal
Downstream from Bullen, the gorge drops
slightly to a small frozen lake, just beyond Fission
Bowl...

Mæl & 18. Unnamed WI3+ 7c+
Jailhouse The stepped ramp left of Kjøkkentrappa is not as popular as 8b+
Bølgen many routes hereabouts. A variation start sometimes forms
on the left (WI4), and the final pillar can often form a steep sbuomltmeder
Ozzimosis finish (WI4). routes

Gausta 19. Bored to the Extreme M9 23 24
Climb a short icy slab to gain steep and difficult mixed 22 25
Svadde climbing to the upper icicle.
Rjukan 23. Dick in a Toaster M6 BOLTS
Centre Andreas Spak, 2004. Photo page 107. Five bolts up the groove at the left side of the wall.
Lower Gorge
Vemork 20. Kjøkkentrappa WI4 24. Fission M10 GEAR
Bridge The stepped icefall opposite Fission Bowl is a popular Krokan
Upper Gorge classic that is usually low in the grade with good rests. A major dry-tooling classic that has seen its fair share of
interest from visiting athletes and numerous on-sight
Krokan Jon Haukåssveen & Knut Luraas, 1998. Photo page 43. successes.

History 21. Kjøkkentrappa Right WI5 Scott Muir, 2003.
The right-hand side of Kjøkkentrappa sometimes forms
a steep pillar that gives a harder and very worthwhile 25. Two Assholes & Five Nice Bolts M6 BOLTS
alternative.
The right-hand side of the wall is another pure dry-tooling
Fission Bowl route that sees its fair share of successes. The left-hand start
is harder but less classic.
Home to Rjukan's hardest mixed climb, this clean
rock wall is located on the opposite side of the Jan Petter Brenteldt, 2003.
gorge, between Topp and Kjøkkentrappa.

Index 22. Kaptein Krok M5 BOLTS
Four bolts up the left-hand sidewall to a lower-off.

Map Page 98 Bullen Area | KROKAN 101

Crag Map on page 98 Contents

SHADE 10m KROKAN | Bullen Area Area Map
Overview

Intro

The
Climbing
How to

Use
Suggested

Areas
35 36

26 272829 30 31 34
32 33 34
Gausetdalen

Gøystdal

Bullen Area 31. Unknown M6 BOLTS Mæl &
A line of bolts just to the left of Tipp. Jailhouse
This is the area immediately downstream from Bølgen
where the approach path enters the gorge 32. Tipp WI5 GEAR
opposite Bullen. Ozzimosis
Technical climbing that can be mixed or ice, depending on
26. Tannpirkeren WI5 conditions. Gausta

The thin toothpick doesn't always form, but when it does it Jon Haukåssveen, 1997. Photo page 27. Svadde
gives an intimidating and aesthetic climb. Rjukan
33. Gaustaspøkelse WI4 Centre
Jon Haukåssveen, 1997.
A popular route with a very steep finish up the left-hand
27. Unnamed WI5 groove, where tree routes often prove useful. Harder
The icicles to the right of the toothpick sometimes give a alternatives to the right are also possible.
more stable formation, but sometimes don't form at all...
Jon Haukåssveen & Knut Luraas, 1998. Photo page 11 & 109.

28. Ergonomisk Krigsførelse M7+ BOLTS 34. Bullen WI3 Lower Gorge

A line of 10 bolts just to the left of Topp. The wide icefall opposite the approach path is the most Vemork
popular climb at Krokan, with a variety of lines between Bridge
Mikkel Overgaard, 2012. WI3 and WI4. It can accommodate numerous teams at the
same time, though care is required with falling ice. Upper Gorge
29. Topp WI5
Jon Haukåssveen,1998.
Another classic Krokan icefall, with a steep and bold start,
followed by easier but sustained climbing. The thin icicle 35. Super Mario M6 BOLTS GEAR Krokan
requires a confident approach, particularly if not fully
formed, in which case a mixed start may be required. Vague icicles up the corner in the trees right of Bullen.

Jon Haukåssveen, 1997. Jon Haukåssveen,1998.

30. De Kaller Meg Fjård M7- BOLTS 36. Energizer M7- GEAR History
Index
A bolted right-hand start to Topp. The big wall to the right of Bullen.

Rein Leindal, 2004. Fredrik Schlyter & Gøran Kropp, 1999.

104 HISTORY | A Brief History of Rjukan Overview Map Page 6

Contents

Area Map
Overview

Intro

The
Climbing
How to

Use
Suggested

Areas

Gausetdalen The hydrogen factory at Vemork, with the old hydro-plant behind
it. Heavy water was produced in the basement by the Nazis.
Photo: Norway's Resistance Museum

Gøystdal A BRIEF HISTORY OF RJUKAN deuterium oxide. Almost indistinguishable from
normal water, heavy water is made up of two
Mæl & Founded between 1905 and 1916, the town deuterium atoms, rather than hydrogen, with each
Jailhouse of Rjukan has a relatively short but remarkably atom containing an additional neutron.
Bølgen significant history. At that time, the Nazis were working on a secret
project to build an atomic bomb, and heavy water
Ozzimosis The Industrial Revolution was a key ingredient as a neutron moderator in
At the start of the last century, the Rjukan valley their experimental nuclear reactors. The Nazis took
Gausta contained little more than a few isolated farms, over the Vemork plant during the war, and in the
until Sam Eyde, an engineer from Arendal, bought basement, beneath eight storeys of armoured
Svadde the Rjukanfossen waterfall. A brilliant industrialist, concrete, they began the laborious production of
Rjukan engineer, and visionary, Eyde was not only working heavy water.
Centre on harnessing the power of electric arcing, but To the Americans and British, preventing the Nazis
Lower Gorge wanted to mass produce Saltpeter as a fertilizer. from producing sufficient heavy water to create a
Vemork For this he needed large amounts of electricity, bomb became a high priority, but destroying the
Bridge and his plan to use the 104-metre Rjukanfossen plant would not be easy.
Upper Gorge waterfall to power a huge hydroelectric plant
would have a dramatic impact, not only on Rjukan Grouse, and Initial Failure
Krokan itself, but world events. British nighttime bombing tactics were considered
Eyde founded A/S Rjukanfoss, which would unlikely to be successful, due to the mountainous
History later become Norsk Hydro, and by 1911 had terrain and unreliable weather. There were also
constructed the world's largest hydroelectric plant serious concerns that stray bombs would hit liquid
Index at Vemork. 12,000 workers were employed in the ammonia storage tanks and endanger the whole
project, not only to build a powerplant, but also an Rjukan population.
entire town, Saltpeter works, and later a hydrogen Instead, the British favoured a small-scale
production plant. ground attack, and On October 19th, 1942, four
Norwegians, who had been trained in Britain,
Heavy Water Production were dropped by parachute into the Songadal
It was Nobel prize winner Odd Hassel who alerted region, just west of Rjukan. Codenamed Grouse,
Norsk Hydro that their hydrogen production was their mission was to act as a reconnaissance team,
creating a valuable by-product – heavy water, or provide weather reports, and guide two Horsa

Overview Map Page 6 A Brief History of Rjukan | HISTORY 105

gliders carrying 35 uniformed troops to a safe Looking down to the Vemork plant from the Hardanger plateau, from Contents
landing on Lake Møs. These troops would then where the raid was mounted. Area Map
fight their way into the plant and destroy the Photo: Norway's Resistance Museum Overview
heavy water production facility.
In the event, however, their mission led to disaster, The Railway Ferry Intro
when both gliders crashed in the mountains. Several months after the American bombing The
Survivors were rounded up by the Nazis and raid, the Swallow team, who were still in hiding Climbing
executed. on the Hardanger Plateau, received word that How to
some stocks of heavy water had survived the raid, Use
The British Raid and that the Nazis planned to move them by rail Suggested
Following the failure of the original mission, the to Germany. Once there, they would be almost Areas
Grouse group were renamed Swallow, and were impossible for the Allies to destroy, and so orders
forced into hiding on the Hardanger plateau, were issued from London to destroy the stock 'at Gausetdalen
where they endured a harsh winter surviving on all costs'.
minimal food and the occasional reindeer. On February 19th, 1944, the saboteurs were back Gøystdal
It was not until February 16th, 1943, that the next in action, this time placing explosive charges Mæl &
operation against Vemork was launched, when a on the Tinnsjø ferry, on which the train carrying Jailhouse
group of commandos, code-name Gunnerside, the heavy water would cross lake Tinnsjø. The Bølgen
were dropped onto the plateau. From their landing following morning, under high security, the train
site they skied thirty miles through a blizzard, arrived from Vemork and was loaded onto the Ozzimosis
joining forces with Swallow just north of Vemork. ferry for the short crossing. When it reached the
By February 27th the group were at Fjøsbudalen, deepest part of the lake, the saboteurs exploded Gausta
ready to launch their attack. After descending the charges, and the ferry sank within minutes.
into the valley from the north, they scaled the Fourteen Norwegian civilians and four German Svadde
rock walls of the gorge, and entered the plant via guards lost their lives, and the last of the Nazi Rjukan
an unguarded gate on the Tinnsjø railway. High heavy water stock was lost forever. Centre
explosive charges were placed on the production Lower Gorge
equipment in the basement, and the saboteurs left Vemork
the building without being noticed. Bridge
After the explosives were detonated the guards Upper Gorge
must have been in a state of some confusion, as
the group of commandos made a desperately Krokan
strenuous escape back across the gorge, up the
clearing beneath the Krossobanen cable car, and History
out onto the plateau. Here they split into two
groups: one fully armed in uniform, who skied
clear to neutral Sweden, and one group who
remained in hiding on the plateau.

The American Raid
Although the British operation had been
successful, the work at Vemork was so important to
the Nazis that they wasted no time in rebuilding,
and production was soon re-started. With
increased security at the plant, further sabotage
was deemed to risky, and so in November 1916
the Americans attacked the plant with 140 Flying
Fortress bombers.
This raid caused extensive damage to the Vemork
facility, and led to the loss of 20 Norwegian lives.
As a result, the Nazis were forced to abandon
heavy water production in the Valley.

Index

106 HISTORY | Climbing History Overview Map Page 6

Contents A busy day on Rjukanfossen (WI4), the valley's
first recorded ice climb. Page 94.
Area Map Photo: Keith Leonard
Overview

Intro

The
Climbing

How to
Use

Suggested
Areas

Gausetdalen

Gøystdal

Mæl &
Jailhouse

Bølgen

Ozzimosis

Gausta

Svadde CLIMBING HISTORY Ascents during these early years of Rjukan ice
climbing could only be described as sporadic, and
Rjukan Only vague information exists about much of although a handful of very impressive climbs had
Centre Rjukan's climbing history, and it's possible that been made, it would be another decade before the
Lower Gorge many first ascents, by both local climbers and the potential of the valley was truly recognised. That
Vemork British Army, were left unrecorded. Rjukanfossen breakthrough came at the hands of local climber
Bridge (WI4) itself was probably the first recorded climb, Jon Haukåssveen, who came to Rjukan in 1990 and
Upper Gorge by Marius Morstad and Bjørn Lund in 1978 – an immediately set his sights on dozens of unclimbed
impressive achievement given the equipment of icefalls.
Krokan the day. Amongst the first of these was the very popular
Svaddefossen (WI4) and several other long icefalls are Vemorkbrufoss Øst (WI4) at Vemork Bridge,
History thought to have been climbed by teams from the followed in 1992 by what is now one of the valley's
British Army in the early 1980s, although few details most frequently climbed routes – Fabrikfossen
Index are known. In 1981, Morten Torkildsen and Tom (WI3) above Rjukan Centre.
Saxlund made the first ascent of Tjønnstadbergfossen The Early nineties also saw the first real exploration
(WI4), and the following year endured a portaledge of the icefalls within the Upper Gorge, with first
bivi on the first ascent of the huge Kvitåa icefall ascents of Trappfoss (WI4) by Jon Haukåssveen
(WI2)! 1982 also saw the first ascent of Høgfoss (WI4) and Jessie Nazareno in 1992, then Nye Vemorkfoss
by Keith Robson and Knut Gjesdal. (WI5) by Ove Dalsegg and Tommy Engvik and