Second Ascent of Shasta Butte - College of the Siskiyous

Mount Shasta Collection

Second Ascent of Shasta Butte

The Daily Herald (San Francisco)
October 9, 1854
page 2, column 4

Second Ascent of Shasta Butte--An Interesting
Narrative

The narrative of the first ascent of Shasta Butte, the loftiest mountain in California, was
doubted by many persons at the time of its publication. The following, says the Yreka
Herald, is a description of a second ascent by a member of the second party, Mr. J.
McKee, of Scott's Valley, which we presume will be read, with great interest, and fully
convince all those who were inclined to doubt the truth of the statement of the first party:

A party of nine men, viz: Chas. McDermit, L. Lane, D.M. Kellog, D.F. Lack, Perry
Greenfield, A.J. Wright, Wm. Boothe, and the writer, all under the guidance of Capt.
E.D. Pearce, left the Yreka Water Company's saw-mill, at the head of Shasta Valley, at
noon on Monday the 18th inst., well mounted and equipped for the ascent of Shasta
Butte. A brisk ride of twelve miles in a southerly course brought us to the meadows lying
at the foot of its southwestern slope. Here we drank from a spring gushing with great
force from the base of the mountain, supplying a volume of water fully equal to three
hundred square inches, and at once assuming the character of a mountain torrent.

This is the source of the east fork of the Sacramento River-- probably the largest spring
on the Pacific coast. We may realize more fully the height of Shasta Plains when we
reflect that this water traces its course some four hundred miles ere it reaches the sea, and
for one-half the distance with a rapid descent.

Our animals were here permitted to feed upon the luxuriant grass rather longer than
prudence would dictate, because of the great abundance of delicious whortleberries to be
found in this vicinity.

At three o'clock we were again in the saddle, slowly following the steep and tortuous
trail, leading us here over precipitous points and there through dense chapparal and
mansenita thickets, a distance of some six miles to the first bench of the mountain, where
we were willing to halt and observe that mountains to us from the plains, were from this
point but as mounds, as they lay in the valley below.

Thus far we had passed through forests of very heavy pine and fir timber, of different
varieties, among which was to us a new species of pine, the foliage upon the outer edges
of the boughs being of a light whitish color, presenting a beautiful appearance, and
relieving the woods of that dark, sombre shade peculiar to pine forests. The sun now
made a "glorious set," and as we hailed its tokens of a smiling morn, pressed forward,
ascending with a gentle rise, an extensive plateau dotted with occasional groves of
stunted pine and low brush, two miles to camp, at the base of the main peak, and at the
foot of the snow.

Securing our animals to the brush, we were soon between our blankets, and dropped
asleep, as our captain's "three o'clock in the morning boys" assured us there was work
ahead. His "all hands up" brought us to our feet before a huge fire, at the appointed hour,
and as we passed our only cup around, examined our iron-shod staffs and shoes, and
laughed as one would "wonder how folks could drink syrup for coffee" and another
express an equal surprise that "sugar should not be considered as being especially
intended for the same." Substituting flannel overshirts for coats, and divesting ourselves
of all dead weights, such as pen-knives, combs, etc, we fell into line behind our leader at
4 o'clock, to commence the ascent by starlight. In a few moments the frozen snow
presented a smooth surface to our feet, as heading north-easterly we followed a gulch
leading up between a sharp ridge of cragged rocks upon our right, with a similar ridge
bearing nearly east, upon our left. At first we walked rapidly and comfortably, but as the
grade increased our pace decreased, until at a point perhaps two miles from camp, the
moon peeped over the bluff before us, seemingly directly overhead. Planting our staffs
and iron shod heels firmly into the ice, we slowly climbed, halting frequently to regain
our wind, and reached, as it were, a trail or track over which an avalanche had possibly
passed, leaving the loose boulders bare. Here we sat down very carefully, least we should
provoke acres of loose stones into motion. Daylight now enabled us to select our steps,
trying each stone before our weight was trusted upon it. We made however frequent slips,
and traveled abreast to avoid the showers of rock we each set in motion, which bounding
down with great velocity, probably suggested it to others, as well as myself, the thought
that one false step would enable us to travel with a degree of speed much greater than that
yet attained, and this too in anything but an upward course. Now we heard a noise under
our feet resembling distant thunder, and by cleaning away the stones and breaking the ice,
we were refreshed with a hearty drink of pure mountain water. Again we toiled onward
and upward, until the trail of the avalanche was behind us and the rising sun gilding the
icy banks before us. Our captain, axe in hand, cut us resting places in the ice, and we
stood at the foot of Red Bluff. This is a conglomerate wall of red clay and stones of
various sizes, from pebbles to boulders, with occasional openings or passes through it,
rising perpendicularly thirty or forty feet, forming a ridge one half mile long north and
south, and connecting the two main ridges above mentioned. With no time for reflection,
we were clinging to its side, depending upon the stones not wholly imbedded for support.
Capt. P. was first up, then soon with silent thanks we each and all stood upon the top of
the Red Bluffs beside him--our first great difficulty overcome. The scene from this point
was beautiful beyond description. The sun rapidly increasing in brilliancy, dissolved the

fogs and mists from over the water courses, and the diversified country to the south and
east lay revealed. How beautifully its misty covering was removed can only be
appreciated by those who may witness it under similar circumstances. This conglomerate
mass is some twenty feet wide on top, with one vast plain of ice extending from its
eastern base far down the mountain, relieved here by the track of an avalanche, and there
by large fissures in the otherwise unbroken plain, northward lay our course.

One half mile more and we had ascended a short steep hill, covered with loose red lava
and slag--the latter resembling green melted glass--and had gained the second bench, as
we estimated, five miles from camp. This, where free of snow, we found covered with
red lava, and here were also several small lakes frozen over. This bench or plain is of an
irregular shape, with several peaks rising from as many corners. Leaving our direct
course, we proceeded over the snow in the most westerly corner, when carefully looking
over the icy edge, we saw the trail by which the first party, headed by Capt. Pierce, had
reached this bench, and of which an account appeared in your paper of the 19th of
August. It is truly a fearfully dangerous route, so much so, that the Captain determined to
descend by another way; and upon examination, selected the path by which we had
ascended. Surely some credit is due to the men who would thus, at risk of life, first
ascend the most lofty peak in California, and by their experience and guidance enable
others, emulating them, to reach the summit with much less danger. I felt thankful there
that I was one of the second party. We were now sensibly affected because of the rarefied
condition of the atmosphere.

My pulse, naturally 70 to 75, was raised to 110. All appearance of blood had left our
faces and extremities, nor could we find a distended vein. Headaches and giddiness
became general, and a sense of oppression weighed upon us all. Breaking the ice, we
drank from a lake, and undertook the next rise. This is a conical shaped hill, seemingly
formed of loose masses of a black porous or spongy lava. This overcome the summit
appeared in full view, and we stood in a triangular shaped basin with three distinct peaks
rising from its angles, and differing but slightly in height. This basin is slightly depressed
in the centre, comprising probably an acre of surface, about one-fourth of which surface
is merely a shell or crust of sulphur, potash and soda, the sulphur predominating, and
presenting when cool a beautiful light yellow crystaline appearance. Boiling water
appeared at the surface through very many holes and fissures, emitting a sulphurous gas
or steam, giving the whole the appearance of a boiling spring. Two hundred yards above
us, the most easterly and highest peak towered in a sugar-loaf form. Addressing ourselves
to the work, we accomplished our task, and clung to the rocks around the flag upon the
very top. Breathing with much difficulty, we rested silently until at the suggestion of
Capt. McDermit, we united in three cheers for the stars and stripes, and for the party that
planted them there five weeks before. It was now 9 o'clock. In five hours we had made
the summit--the whole world lay below us, and we feasted with delight upon the varied
and extensive scenes presented to view from all points.

Our exceeding gladness warned us that but little time was at our command. Extending the
arms and opening the lungs, we endeavored with an effort to inhale the air more rapidly

and thus relieve our short breathings. But while we knew we were breathing, we could
neither hear nor feel the air, as it passed to the lungs.

After carving our names upon a flinty rock, and gathering a few pieces of the different
formations of lime, among which are some resembling felspar, some calcareous spar, and
others common quartz, we descended to the basin to examine more particularly the crater
or hot spring. We found that the sulphurous crust was soft, spongy, and very hot. Forcing
our staffs through it, boiling water followed their withdrawal to the surface.

We ventured to walk upon it, notwithstanding it would yield to the foot, and passed
directly over the crater of this at one time active volcano or spring. Opening one of its
fissures, we carefully broke off large pieces of the crust in nearly a melting state, and laid
them on the snow to cool and harden. The inhalation of the gas arising from the spring
nauseated two or three of our party so much so as to cause vomiting. We had as yet
suffered no inconvenience from the cold, the labor of climbing kept us comfortable,
while the earth and stones around the crater were warm.

Nothing of animal or vegetable life was visible, yet a dead though perfect wasp was
picked up upon the summit. At 10 o'clock we commenced slowly and carefully retracing
our steps. This was in the then condition of our systems very toilsome, until reaching a
more natural atmosphere. We were partially relieved from our extreme depression, and
pursued our downward course over the now slightly yielding snow with great rapidity.
The holes broken in the ice of the lakes as we ascended, were again frozen tight as we
returned.

At 1 o'clock we were again at camp, after an absence of nine hours, when a little brandy,
followed by a strong cup of coffee, braced at least the writer for our ride to the saw mill.
We estimated the distance to the summit to be seven miles, and satisfied ourselves we
had been led up and down the only practicable route. Without a single instrument of any
kind, we were unable to ascertain the temperature of the atmosphere or determine the
altitude. No one can regret this more than we did. Arrangements were made for our party
being supplied with them, but a probable misunderstanding as to time, prevented their
reaching us, and we feared to delay lest a storm should arise.

The height of the Butte is previously estimated at from twelve to sixteen thousand feet
above the sea. There is now much less snow on its sides than at any time since the whites
were familiar with it, and the present is a very favorable time for its ascent.

But I have already claimed too much space in your columns. Do me the favor to publish
this, for I really feel quite proud of our accomplishment, and wish to give our readers in
my own way, something more than a mere statement of fact.

Very respectfully your friend

Yreka, Sept. 21, 1854 - JOHN MCKEE