New Faces and Places Riverdale

PFALACCESE/S

Spotlight on the evolving local business scene
April 2022

Italian restaurant But whereas he characterizes his approach to the on these shores.
20-year-old Churchill’s as "a restoration," Win- Vendittelli brought over an electric pizza oven from
Mangia Bene ston’s, established in 2015, has been transformed Italy. Even in the old country, pizzaioli are turn-
into a rustic Italian trattoria, complete with a tented ing from wood to electric to minimize greenhouse
in Rockville Centre "giardino" out back. Vendittelli hopes that the out- gases and this hammered copper Sud Forni does a
door space, with its standing heaters and hanging great job. The eight pies include a Calabrese (with
Maurizio Vendittelli has been scribbling notes about heaters and fans, will carry him into the cool — if
his very own Italian restaurant for decades. From not the cold — weather. crumbled sausage and Calabrese chilies),
his time as a busser at Cafe Donatello in Plainview, Mangia Bene and Churchill’s a polpettini (meatballs, mozza-
as a server at Basil Leaf Cafe in Locust Valley and are directly across the street rella, ricotta) and the PLT (Speck,
captain at Cafe Continental in Manhasset to his 10- from The Breakfast Club and arugula, cherry tomatoes and
year tenure as general manager at Il Bacco in Little Vendittelli spends most of lemon).
Neck and during his yearlong partnership in The his waking hours in this The rest of the fare splits
Breakfast Club in Rockville Centre, he’s been jotting little patch of South Park the difference between
down ideas and asking himself what he would do if Avenue. His collaborator the Italian food you find in
all the decisions were up to him. in Mangia Bene’s kitchen Italy, and the Italian food
Mangia Bene ("Eat Well" in Italian), is the answer. is executive chef John Di you find on Long Island:
Lemme, who cooked at rice balls and baked clams,
Wonderful outdoor dining Lupa and Del Posto in Man- Caesar salad and fried cala-
option, even during the winter. hattan and ran the kitchen at mari, a pork chop stuffed with
Cipollini in Manhasset. For the Fontina and Speck and shrimp
The food was excellent and last year or so, Di Lemme has scampi on a bed or spinach and
the service was great. been an itinerant pasta maker, sell- what the menu calls "The Parms,"
We will be back again... ing his handiwork (nome di macaroni:
and again... @etruscipasta) at Salumi Bar in Massapequa. made with chicken or veal chop. Prices
Now he is chained to his pasta-making machine are modest across the board: for starters, salads
The restaurant takes over the old Winston’s Kitchen in Mangia Bene’s basement, where he produces and pizzas, $12 to $16; for pastas, $19 to $24
& Bar in Rockville Centre. Vendittelli took over both spaghetti, paccheri, garganelli, casarecce and more. (about half that
Winston’s and its sister pub, Churchill’s, in July. All pasta there is made in house. I was impressed for half portions);
by an eggy, creamless bucatini carbonara and even for mains, $22 to
more by the strozzapreti bathed in a verdant pesto $32.
along with cubes of potato and lengths of green
beans — a Genovese preparation one rarely sees

SoBol you know exactly whats going in your bowl when The Riverdale Press NEW Faces , NEW Places - April 2022
you visit.
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2

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email: [email protected] 3 The Riverdale Press NEW Faces , NEW Places - April 2022

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The Riverdale Press NEW Faces , NEW Places - April 2022

email: [email protected] 5 The RiverdaHleERPAreLsDs NEW Faces , NEW Places - April 2022