AWS Wine Journal Summer 2021

W neJournalThe American Wine Society
Summer 2021

History of 2021 AWS
the Award of Merit
Wine Cork
Recipient

Charcuterie Amateur
& BYOB Winemakers

Perfect Surviving 2020
Pairings

MoExnptleorriengytAheVA

Win3eryxof the Year... Hat Trick!

2010 SMALL WINERY OF THE YEAR 2017

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Year

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CONTENTS

WINE101 COVERSTORY 6
9
6 History of Wine Corks 20 Exploring the Monterey AVA 12
-Gene Spaziani -Mike Botwin
While wine has been a beloved beverage The Monterey AVA (established in 1983) 15
from the beginning of history, it was the is planted with more than 40,000 acres 20
cork that transformed the wine industry. (comparing to 46,000 for Napa Valley)
and contains within its boundaries 6 sub- 3
RESEARCH appellations.

9 Clearly Clairette SIPTALK
-Roger Morris
It doesn’t have a $10 million advertising 27 2021 AWS Award of
campaign, yet this fragrant charmer
from the South of France is gaining a Merit Recipient
coterie of winemaking admirers ranging
from the lower Rhone to the California -Jim Rink
Coast. Kevin Zraly is the recipient of this year’s
FOOD&WINE AWS Award of Merit. In May 2011, he
earned the James Beard Lifetime
12 Charcuterie & BYOB Achievement Award, among many other
-Madeleine Vedel notable honors.
Artisanal sausages, pâtés, rillettes and
more are being made and sold throughout INDUSTRYNEWS
the States in high-end grocery stores. But 28 New or Noteworthy
what to pair with such delicious meats as
more people gather together? -Jim Rink
Jim Rink delivers the latest happenings
from the wine industry.

FEATURE PERSPECTIVE

15 Amateur Winemakers 31 The White Claw of Wine
-Jessica Zimmer -Tamara Belgard
Online communities were very helpful for Piquette is a beverage that’s made by
many AWS winemaking members during adding water to the solid remains of
the Covid-19 outbreak. grape skins, stems, and seeds (pomace)
leftover from the winemaking process,
Front & Back Covers: which are then fermented, using up
Photo credit: montereywines.org any remaining sugars. Some call it the
“People’s Wine.”

AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG

EDITOR’SLETTER VOLUME 53 NO.2 SUMMER 2021

JIM RINK Published by

"There are no standards of taste in wine, cigars, poetry, prose, etc. The American Wine Society
Each man’s own taste is the standard, and a majority vote cannot a non-profit corporation,
decide for him or in any slightest degree affect the supremacy of his
PO Box 889, Scranton, PA 18501
own standard." -Mark Twain
Single copies $5.00
The quote is a favorite of Kevin Zraly, AWS Award of Merit winner and famous American
wine educator who was founder of the Windows on the World Wine School. It is an Copyright 2021 AWS Inc. © All rights
apt quote, because, the Society and the Journal both seek to educate, not proselytize. reserved. Reproduction or use of

In this issue, Jessica Zimmer examines the struggles of amateur and professional editorial or pictorial content without
winemakers (including AWS members), faced with the challenges of 2020—including written permission is prohibited.
COVID 19 and wildfires out west. Madeleine Vedel delves into the meat of her subject—
charcuterie. More than just cold cuts, charcuterie can be standard fare and dinner Library of Congress Class Number:
parties and presents special challenges when deciding what wine to bring. Jet-setting TP544 A46A3 LC Card 76-647900
Roger Morris gives us the down-low on Clairette, an ancient white Rhone variety that
was on the decline, but is now seeing renewed interest in the South of France as well Publisher
as in California. Winemaker/educator extraordinaire Gene Spaziani presents readers
with a fascinating history of cork. I can guarantee you, this article does not go barking David Falchek
up the wrong tree.
Editor
Our resident California native Mike Botwin takes us on a journey through the extensive
Monterey AVA, which has some interesting sub-appellations. And, last, but certainly Jim Rink
not least, Jim Rink provides a little background on this year’s AWS Award of Merit
honoree — Kevin Zraly. Contributing Writers

Stay thirsty, Tamara Belgard, Mike Botwin,
Jim Rink, Gene Spaziani, Roger Morris,
Madeleine Vedel, and Jessica Zimmer

Editorial Office

Jim Rink
20020 Maple St.
Lake Ann, MI 49650
[email protected]

Unsolicited manuscripts or other
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4 AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG

ABOUTAWS Founder

The AWS is the largest consumer based wine education organization in the U.S. A Konstantin Frank
non-profit group, the AWS is devoted to educating people on all aspects of wine. Its
members include wine novices, experts, grape growers, amateur and professional AWS National Officers and Board of Directors
wine-makers, chefs, wine appreciators, wine educators, restaurateurs, and anyone
wanting to learn more about wine. President Vice President Secretary
Michael Wangbickler Bill Stefan Leanne Wheeler
AWS ACTIVITIES
Chapters: Local community groups of AWS members sponsor programs, usually Treasurer Director of Director of
monthly. Activities include: tastings, dinners, lectures, picnics, winery tours, wine- Rich Berezinsky Educational Services Competitions
making and cooking demonstrations, viticulture conferences, amateur wine-judging Rex Bambling
events, and other wine-related social events. Guests are welcome and novices have Director of Aaron Mandel
nothing to fear. Chapters are self-supporting, so expect a nominal charge to attend Member Services Member Services
a tasting, dinner, etc. If a local chapter does not exist in your area, the national office Carrie A. Garczynski Executive Manager
will be glad to assist in forming a chapter. All that is needed are a few interested wine Director
lovers. Meeting can be informal and held in member homes or in other settings, David Falchek Katherine Kearney
such as restaurants and wineries.
Regional Events: Organized by regional vice-presidents, include statewide wine 1967-1970 Past Presidents 1973-1974
judging, contests, special tastings, regional wine conferences, regional picnics and Albert W. Laubengayer Carol W. Damoth
special dinners. 1971-1972
1975-1976 Robert A. Dickmann 1979-1980
National Conference: Held each fall—a two and one-half day national conference Jerry S. Miller Joseph P. Nardone
and extravaganza of wine. Attendees become part of a tradition that has drawn wine- 1977-1978
lovers, wine-makers and gastronomes together every November for over 45 years. 1981-1982 Kathryn Froelich 1985-1986
Prominent American and international speakers conduct seminars and lectures John M. Hasson Lewis H. France, Jr.
on all aspects of wine appreciation, wine production, grape growing and cuisine. 1983-1984
Members experience fine food at connoisseur luncheons and dinners, tastings of 1987-1988 Michael A. Farren 1991
hundreds of wines and royal treatment by the finest American hotels and resorts. Thomas C. Iezzi, Jr. Stephen R. Kampers
The annual conference brings professionals, serious amateurs and novices together 1989-1990
to discover what is new in wine. 1992 Alton A. Long 1994
J. Randy Hurteau George E. Wilson
1993
1995 Alcide L.Porrell 1997
Kenneth P. Brewer Eugene J. Spaziani
1996
1998 Raymond A. Hartung, Jr. 2000
Gary C. Pavlis Charles E. Hastings
1999
2001 Gayle M. Darugh 2003
Pamela J. Davey Frank C. Aquilino
2002
2004 William H. Eisberg 2006
Willis L. Parker Janice Cobett
2005
2007 Tom Castronovo 2010-2011
Albert L. Guber, Jr. Willis L. Parker
2008-2009
2012-2014 Raymond A. Hartung, Jr. 2017-2018
Jane M. Duralia Kristin Kraft
2015-2016
Frank C. Aquilino 2019-2020
Joseph Broski

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5

THE HISTORY OF WINE

BY GENE SPAZIANI

6 AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG

hile wine has been a beloved beverage from WINE101
the beginning of history, it was the cork that
transformed the wine industry into the 7
elegant blend of art and agriculture that it
is today.

Most of the wines of Asia Minor and the Caucasus were stored in jars
which had been sunk in the ground in containers that were cut out of
stone and plastered to prevent leakage. The winemakers of the time
began to learn about the harmful effects of exposure to air on the
wines and covered the tops with tree bark and softwood (today we
know it as cork oak and balsa wood). The tops were then sealed with
pitch or grease.

The first wine was surely fermented in a goatskin sack and drunk
immediately. The ancient Greeks replaced the goatskin sack with
amphorae. It was made of clay and was porous. With time, the amphorae
were lined with ceramic, thus keeping the wine for a longer period of
time. Ever since the fifth century B.C., cork has been used as a stopper
on amphorae. With the discovery of the amphorae, the Romans were
able to ship wine to the Orient and other parts of the world. It was
not until the late 1600s that someone thought to use cork to seal wine
in a glass bottle (legend has it that Dom Perignon was the inventor).

THE SHAPE OF THINGS TO COME Photo courtesy of: http://100percentcork.org

The use of cork changed winemaking styles, led to the current bottle
shapes and introduced a completely new concept to the marketing of
wine. Winemakers soon saw that full-bodied wine would develop and
improve with age if it were stored in a cool, dark place and protected
from air by the cork and they began to make such wines. The wine
business boomed. Wine producers protected their reputations by
bottling at the winery, and soon wine connoisseurs began to recognize
and idolize specific châteaux and vineyards. Natural wine corks are one
of the most remarkable products of nature, and have played a critical
role in the development of premium wines in the world.

The incredible properties of natural cork are primarily the result of
cork’s unique structure. The bark of the cork tree is composed of tiny
cells, each a 14-sided polyhedron, with intercellular space filled with
air. There are approximately 40 million of these cells in a single cubic
centimeter.

Cork also has a low density, depending on the region, land, rainfall, and
quality of the tree and degree of humidity. It is almost impermeable
to liquids and gases. This characteristic is due to cork cells filled with
gas and the fatty nature of the tissue membranes. When plunged into
boiling water, gas in the cork expands and volume increases.

Photo courtesy of: http://100percentcork.org

AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG

In Portugal, as in most of the other cork-producing countries, harvesting
of cork bark is strictly legislated. Only mature trees (25 years or older)
may be harvested. The largest cork-producing country is Portugal,
followed by other Mediterranean countries such as Spain, Algeria,
Sardinia, France and Morocco. Portugal produces nearly 50 percent
of the cork in the world and the quality of its cork is high.

Photo courtesy of: corkforest.org/gallery

Photo courtesy of: corkforest.org/gallery

A NATIONAL TREASURE

In fact, cork forests are among the most regulated agriculture in the
world. Cork forests are considered national treasures and every step is
carefully documented and regulated by the government.

Photo courtesy of: http://100percentcork.org Corks are made from bark harvested from living trees. The bark is
harvested between June 1 and the end of August because the tree
A PERFECT FIT naturally releases its bark and is at its greatest strength during that
period. Bark is peeled off in large panels approximately 2 feet by 4 feet by
Adherence to smooth surfaces is due to elasticity, suction effect produced 1 inch. After de-barking, the core is rose-colored, changing to red, then
by broken cells (when punched out) and traces of resinous substances. reddish brown, and the following year to gray. This is the beginning of
It is resistant to extreme temperatures, very difficult to burn. When new bark growing at a rate of three to five millimeters per year.
released from pressure, the cork quickly recovers to approximately
90-percent of its original shape. This allows the cork to quickly conform What sets the cork tree apart from other trees is its capacity to create a
to a bottle neck and seal it tightly against the primary enemy of fine removable suberin tissue to form and an outer bark. After harvest, the
wine: air. Equally important: natural cork maintains its flexibility for last digit of the year is painted on the trunk to indicate its next harvest.
decades, making the seal long-lasting and easy to remove. Cork is The next harvest will be 9-10 years later. And with cork, every vintage
the bark of an oak tree (Cuercus Suber) which grows only in specific is as good as the last.
regions of the Western Mediterranean. Attempts to grow this tree in
other regions of the world with similar climates have not succeeded.

The cork tree requires a great deal of sunlight and the unusual ABOUT THE AUTHOR
combination of low rainfall and somewhat high humidity. The quality
and thickness of the bark varies according to growing conditions. Gene Spaziani is the author of The Home Winemaker’s
Cork forests not only reduce the need for other polluting industries, Companion, a retired college educator, and an award-winning
they also help clean the air of pollutants caused by these industries. home winemaker. He can be reached a [email protected]
The tree grows to about 50-60 feet in height. This bark is also used for
purposes other than wine closures. Leaves are dark, glossy green on
the upper side and white and downy on the under side. This is the only
species that is evergreen. All other cork trees are deciduous.

8 AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG

RESEARCH

ClaCileraerlytte

By Roger Morris

Ancient white Rhone variety that was on the decline now seeing
renewed interest in the South of France as well as in California.

C lairette is sneaking up on us. It doesn’t have a $10 the potential and quality of this grape variety through a very
million advertising campaign. Neither Brad nor old vineyard – 150 years old – that I fermented on its own. The
Jay-Zee has yet to make a house brand of it. Most results were tremendous.” Scott Schultz of Jolie-Laide Wines in
likely, you have not encountered it on a Zoom tasting Sonoma County says he became interested in Clairette because
during lockdown. And you won’t see a Clairette winegrowing friends had made wine from it “so we wanted to
product placement during Netflix’s next award-winning streamer try our hand at it as well. Overall impression? It was fun to work
of the week. with, smelled really great in the fermenter and we have enjoyed
raising it up and seeing what develops,” he says. “We aren’t really
Yet this fragrant charmer from the South of France is gaining a in the fatter Rhone white camp drinkers, so it has been nice to
coterie of winemaking admirers ranging from the lower Rhone see what a more restrained approach could bring.”
to the foothills of the Pyrenees to the Western Cape region of
South Africa to the California Coast. Clairette is in that category
of grape varieties that is as old as candle-lit wine cellars but which
now has many younger winegrowers asking, “Is there something
here that our ancestors long ago saw – and tasted –that we may
be missing?”There is, and you are.

“Clairette, I truly think, is the great white wine grape of the 9
southern Rhone that has been for a while forgotten,”  says
Rodolphe de Pins, owner of Château de Montfaucon, located in
the small Clairette de Bellegarde appellation on the west side of
the Rhone opposite Châteauneuf du Pape. “I have rediscovered

Photo courtesy of: www.diois-tourisme.com

AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG

Jason Haas of Tablas Creek continued to explore the many lesser-known Rhone varieties, red
Vineyard, the Paso Robles and white, that the region is known for. Many of the vines came
winery co-owned by his from the Tablas Creek plantings.
family’s Vineyard Brands
and the Perrin family Amanda Herrell is operations manager at the Martian Ranch &
of France’s Château de Vineyard, which is located in Los Alamos along U.S. 101 between
Beaucastel, says that the Santa Barbara and Santa Maria, and she grows Clairette both to
winery has now planted all make into wine for the Martian Ranch label as well as sell to other
the varieties of Rhone grapes winemakers. “Clairette has been a fun grape to work with,” Herrell
that can go into the fabled says. “In our experience, it’s better expressed when picked early
at 20 to 21 Brix, as the acids drop very quickly after that point
Châteauneuf du Pape and has been with not much gain in flavor. We like our wines to speak to the
Jason Haas of Tablas Creek Vineyard producing a varietal bottling of Clairette place rather than manipulate them in the winery, so picking at
since 2014. The winery’s website describes the flavors of the the right time is very important for us.”
wine as having “aromas of pineapple, key lime and mint. In the
mouth, it stands right on the edge between sweet and tart with Herrell goes on to say that Clairette “also plays well with Grenache
flavors of kaffir lime, green plum and lemongrass. The finish is Blanc, and we’ve enjoyed making a Rhone white blend using those
clean and slightly nutty with an anise note.” two varietals. As a vine, it’s very vigorous. and keeping its canopy
in check is a constant task. We also drop a lot of fruit from the
Clairette – also called Clairette Blanche, especially in the U.S. – is Clairette block to maintain the quality we need. In our vineyard,
native to the South of France and is often referred to as an “ancient it’s a vine that requires a lot of attention and maintenance in order
grape” that has been used in many white grape blends, including to get high quality fruit.” 
some white Châteauneufs. Among the more-noted among them is
that of Domaine Saint Préfert, owned by Isabel Ferrando, which Schultz agrees that Clairette has to be closely watched. “Purely
has 80 percent Clairette and 20 percent Roussanne. as a stylistic endeavor we much prefer wines with bright acidity,”
he says, “so we can pretty much say ‘picked early to preserve
Because it often lacks acidity and is prone to maderization, acidity’ literally across the board on all our wines. It remains
Clairette declined in popularity through the last half of the true for the Clairette.”
previous century, but many vintners continued to grow it because
it thrives on very poor soils (as do the region’s olive trees) and As I had read in online tasting notes for his Jolie-Laide Clairette
is a late ripener. It is a primary grape in the bubbly Crémant de that the wine had gone through malolactic, which seemed odd for
Die and Clairette de Die – a small town along a tributary of the a wine where acidity is needed, I asked Schultz about why he did
Rhone – and in Clairette de Bellegarde. that. “We do often block malo on whites for that same reason,”
he explained, “but the Clairette was very slow to ferment, and it
Part of Clairette’s popularity in the U.S., and in California mostly completed malo while primary was happening.”
particularly, is a result of the Rhone Rangers and other lovers of
Rhone varieties, particularly Syrah and Grenache varietals, who Photos courtesy of: Tablas Creek Vineyard

10

“The intensity can He went on to note, “Our facility is zero inoculations, has no
be discreet at the temperature control and strangely seems to have a high oenococcus
beginning compared [a flora associated with low pH malolactic] environment, as our
to a Viognier or a malos tend to move quick if you aren’t careful. We like to make
Grenache Blanc, wines that are light and tumble, but with some texture, and that
but after a while, it Clairette walks the fine line.” 
will deliver more
fragrance.  De Pins contrasts the grape – and the wine he makes from it – to
It is not flashy two other well-know Rhone whites. “The intensity can be discreet
at first on the at the beginning compared to a Viognier or a Grenache Blanc,”
nose, probably he says. “But after little while, it will deliver more fragrance. It is
a reason to not flashy at first on the nose, probably a reason to explain that
explain that it has been forgotten for a while.” Similarly, the Tablas Creek
it has been Clairette seems to actually become more structured after the
forgotten” bottle had been opened for a few hours. “Food-wise, it is super
versatile,” Schultz says. “It’s crispy enough to have for summer
Photo courtesy of: www.diois-tourisme.com weather and fare – salads, roasted veggies with farro. Clairette
also has slight weight and texture that could easily and happily
AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG hold ‘til the fall and enjoy with duck confit, quince, squash, roasted
pork or chicken.”

De Pins has become very bullish on Clairette, and not just because
it is an old grape getting new attention. “I am planting more and
using a massal selection from my old vineyard,” he says. “In my
opinion, it is definitely the great white varietal of the south, one
that can truly make a ‘grand vin.’”That would be a great step
forward for the grape and the wine, as now it mainly be produced
as an everyday blend, except for Saint Préfert’s white Châteauneuf,
which was rated 94 points by Wine Advocate and sells for about
$60 a bottle.

What might catch even more attention is a special bottling of
Clairette du Languedoc by the ubiquitous southern France
winemaker, Gerard Bertrand. It is from a vineyard, Bertrand
says, “that is twice a thousand years old,” although the vines, of
course, are not. And it comes in an unusual “Art de Vivre” bottle
made of natural clay. Clairette – which means “clear” or “light” –
masquerading in an opaque bottle? Now that is sneaky.

About the Author

In addition to the Journal, Roger Morris writes about wine,
food and travel for numerous publications including World of
Fine Wine, Wine Enthusiast, Drinks Business and Beverage
Media. During the first two decades of this century, the
Delaware-based Morris has made more than 100 reporting
trips to wine regions on five continents.

11

SOFT-RIPENED LIGHT FLAVORED CHEESES
CHEESE PROSCIUTTO
HARD CHEESE
PICKLED
THINGS MEDIUM FLAVOR
SPANISH CHORIZO

SEMI HARD
CHEESE

LIGHT FLAVOR
SOPPRESSATA

CURED PÂTÉ
MEATS

NUTS OLIVES FRUITS

CHAtRheCpUerTfeEctRpIEair+inBgsYOB
BY MADELEINE VEDEL

12 AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG

Build the FOOD&WINE
PERFECT
BOARD rtisanal sausages, pâtés, rillettes and more are
being made and sold throughout the U.S. in high-
Photo by: Erik Dungan and inspired by Wine Folly.com end grocery stores and at your local wine shop.

Photo courtesy of: prestigewineimports.com Online Facebook Groups such as Grrls Meat
Camp and The Salt Cured Pig are there to
AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG encourage budding charcutiers and shared

successes and failures for the home-based
experimenter, and the professional.

What exactly is Charcuterie? The word itself emerged from the
Latin/Romance language (in this case French) combining the
words for flesh and cooking. However, here the word “to cook”
encompasses curing, salting, fermentation, as well as heating. Pork
and pork fat are key to charcuterie, though cured duck breast, beef,
lamb, and many a wild meat jerky fall under the umbrella as well.

What to Bring

But here you are, with an invitation to a gathering – ever more
momentous in this soon to be Post-Covid [we hope] world. What
do you bring? What to drink alongside these flavor powerhouses?
Most wines would be knocked out by these palate tapping
meats. Salt, fat, spices, pepper coat and stimulate your taste
buds, rendering them incapable of tasting the subtle, clashing
with tannins. For the serious wine taster, the sight of a tray of
salami slices in a tasting cellar is a signal that the winery is more
concerned with encouraging drinking than tasting. I wouldn’t
pull out an old bottle of Bordeaux, nor my treasured stash of
Châteauneuf-du-Pape and risk zapping my taste buds with a spicy
slice of sausage. Though I would contentedly share a smear of the
more subtle and fat-laden rillettes or foie gras on a crunchy/soft
bit of fresh baguette.

There are wines that hold up to Charcuterie, wines that feel almost
made for them, with sufficient acidity and fruit. Consider the
classic “what grows together goes together” concept and drink a
Chianti — which, according to Wine Folly exhibits red fruits, dried
herbs, balsamic vinegar, smoke, and game in the glass. Chianti
is frequently enjoyed with a bit of local Salumi. Bright Provence-
style rosés – filled with yellow and white floral notes, as well as
yellow fruit and berry flavors – is the preferred wine for a picnic
including a little goat cheese and a hunk of Saucisson d’Arles.

13

It Don't Mean A Thing If It Ain't Got That Zing So look for a light to medium-bodied, low tannin red wine, such
as Gamay, Sangiovese or Cabernet Franc, to pair with a board
Trish Rogers, author of The Zing Thing: Fearless Food and Wine of sliced salumi, sausage and local cheeses. Looking over the
Together, spoke recently during a Facebook Live group chat on local selections I find in my favorite wine shop, I might choose
Riesling (March 10, 2021 Episode 4), explaining: “The taste network a Chateau Grand Traverse Gamay Noir Limited, with its light-
[includes] the five taste receptors. The receptor that triggers spice, body and tart cherry, red plum and black pepper flavors, or a Brys
where we feel heat is also [where we] feel temperature changes, Estate Cabernet Franc.
and it is next door, co-localized with our sweet receptors. If we

ingest something that touches the spice guy, he’ll get excited, With a board filled with more spice and smoke, look to a refreshing
then if we also get something sweet with that, these two together and fruity Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, or the less common
suppress each other. If you have something sweet and heat, put Albarniño, avoiding wines with more mineral or herbal profiles,
Riesling beside it. “mineral tones will melt into the smoky flavors while herbal

Acid availability – a key element to food appreciation – it turns tones may skew bitter leaving behind only searing acidity,” (Wine
on the salivary spigot – acidity is an aversive taste. Continue to Enthusiast, Jenn de la Vega, May 2019). And should you have a
bring acid into the picture, you will smother. The acid in wine richer presentation of duck or goose foie gras, rillettes and rabbit
can denature the proteins in mucins – take another sip to clean pâté, falling back on the classic pairing of a sweet Sauternes or a
the slate. There is constant “refreshing” via the salivary action. domestic ice wine such as Michigan’s Old Mission based Chateau
Cured Meats and the Smoke factor [are] salt dominant foods such Chantal’s Estate Ice Wine would be magic in your mouth.

as hams and smoked fish. Pairing a dry or semi-dry Riesling offers

the balance of acidity which suppresses salt.” About the Author

Doug Frost, author of On Wine, An American Wine Master Tells All, Madeleine Vedel was initiated into the world of wine by her
contributed during this same discussion: “The heat receptors can wine-loving parents who had a prized — if small — wine
be buffered by fats, and by sugars. [It is] somewhat mysterious cellar to be shared only with those who knew the difference.
why that happens. So [do we] eat more cheese? Or glug more While married to a French chef in Provence she ran food
wines?” The take-away from this conversation among experts is and wine tours for nearly 20 years. She is currently based
how perfectly the relatively high acidity, and strong fruity notes in Bellaire, Mich., honing her cheese and pastry skills and
happily consuming both local and international wines within
her budget.

in a well made semi-dry Riesling pair with the salt, spice and fat

in charcuterie. The acid in the wine cleanses and balances the

palate, cutting through the intensity of the cured meats, allowing Pro Tip:
both to tingle the taste buds with alternating beats creating their
own rhythm on your tongue. Start with the available
charcuterie at your local
perfeTRctY TpHaESirEings grocer and pair with bright,
sweet fruity wines for a

perfect start!

EAT THIS EAT THIS EAT THIS

Goat Cheese, Salami, Cured Meats, Sausage, Salami,
Saucisson d’Arles Smoked Fish, Ham, Local Cheese

PAIR WITH Salty foods PAIR WITH

Chianti or PAIR WITH Gamay, Sangiovese
Provence style Rosé or Cabernet Franc
Dry or Semi-Dry
14 Riesling Photos courtesy of: totalwine.com

FEATURE

Wines
for the Times

How amateur and pro
winemakers survived 2020

by Jessica Zimmer

A cross the United States, amateur and
professional winemakers who belong to the
American Wine Society have continued

making wine through the pandemic, with

video guidance from professionals and by adapting to

the new offerings from grape brokers. Many winemakers

Mark Diehl, co-owner of Stonewall Creek Vineyards, shows the were able to continue the process of winemaking as usual,
temporary sign he put up in April 2020 to restrict sales to carry-out.
Photo by: Stonewall Creek Vineyards with grape brokers playing a huge role behind the scenes
Chris Creasey, founder of the East Las Vegas Valley chapter of
the American Wine Society, with some of his award-winning in ensuring that conditions remained close to normal.
wAMinEReIsC.APNhWotINoEcSoOuCrIEteTYs.yORoGf: Chris Creasey
“I continued winemaking the same as I’ve done for close to
11 years, relying on the education I received from AWS and
the University of California, Davis. This year, I’m making
blends from grapes from Lodi and Amador County, and
a Syrah from grapes from the Suisun Valley. I followed
the models from my prior wines that have won prizes
in local and state competitions,” said Chris Creasey, an
amateur winemaker and the founder of AWS’s East Las
Vegas Valley chapter.

Barry and Sissy St. Pierre, amateur winemakers based in
Connecticut, also continued making wine through the
pandemic rather easily. They utilized cold hardy-Vinifera
and hybrids from their hobby vineyard of approximately
300 plants. They also bought wine grapes from the Suisun
Valley through Musto Wine Grape Company.

“Since we’re retired, COVID-19 did not stop us from
making wine. We were able to go to the Eastern Winery
Exposition in early March 2020 before the pandemic
began. I’ve also been attending webinars throughout the
pandemic,” said Barry St. Pierre.

15

St. Pierre, who made a Sangiovese blend for the first time in 2020,
said his and Sissy’s years of establishing contacts through AWS
helped them continue their hobby. “It’s been a lot of comfort, this
year and through the years, having friendly souls and people to
talk to about making wine and growing grapes,” said St. Pierre.

Howard Paul, who co-owns Wedgewood Vintners in Vallejo, Howard Paul (left) and Skippy Paul (right) co-owners of Wedgewood Vintners.
California with his wife, Skippy Paul, said the couple made the Photos (above and below) courtesy of Howard Paul.
transition from amateur to professional winemakers during the
pandemic. The rapid changes that COVID-19 posed were extremely
challenging. “Restaurants closed, it was hard to do any marketing,
and it was even hard to sell through collectives such as the Vintners
Collective in Napa. Right now I’m looking into the possibility of
starting a cooperative. Then I can get access to equipment to make
my wines from start to finish,” said Paul.

Mark Diehl, co-owner of Stonewall Creek Vineyards in Tiger,
Georgia, said the pandemic drastically changed how the winery
invited guests and sold wine. He and his wife Sandi Diehl started
a wine club as well as online sales and shipping.“We’re busier than
ever, welcoming guests from all over the country who may not
be able to visit their usual travel destinations like Europe. We’re
anticipating a busy outdoor season, encouraging guests to socially
distance and wear masks. We’re also continuing our shipments
of wine to over 40 states, which we learned how to do last March.
We’d had to temporarily close for six weeks,” said Diehl. Diehl
said Stonewall is now developing its outdoor space with more
family-friendly areas, including picnic tables, firepits, bocce ball,
corn-hole, and disc golf.

“It’s been a lot of comfort, this year and through the years, having friendly
souls and people to talk to about making wine and growing grapes,”

1M6 ark and Sandi Diehl, co-owners of Stonewall Creek Vineyards Photos courtesy of: Stonewall Creek VAiMneERyIaCArdNsWINESOCIETY.ORG

How AWS Faced COVID-19 “In 2020, many competitions
closed or went (on) hiatus.
AWS entered March 2020 with an advantage, its large online Our competitions team
community of home winemakers. “We launched AWS Online developed a means of
Communities in April 2020, which was timely. That helped conducting a competition
amateur winemakers nationally stay in touch and interact safely for the judges. We were
meaningfully during the pandemic,” said David Falchek, able to continue that great
executive director of the American Wine Society. tradition and service to home
winemakers,” said Falchek.
Falchek said under normal circumstances, amateur
winemakers often rely on competitions to gauge the quality of
the wines or how they are progressing as winemakers. “In 2020,
many competitions closed or went (on) hiatus. Our competitions
team developed a means of conducting a competition safely for the judges. We were able
to continue that great tradition and service to home winemakers,” said Falchek.

The AWS held its 2020 Amateur Wine Competition between October 26 through 28, with
Donnie and Betty Nettles of Palm Bay, Florida, taking the Best in Show prize for their 2019
Lime. Falchek said digital events provided new opportunities for AWS. “We’ve had about
a dozen virtual tastings with vintners and winemakers since the start of the pandemic
and we continue (to hold these events),” said Falchek. AWS is already planning its 2021
conference, which is scheduled to be held November 4 through 6 at Harrah’s Resort in
Atlantic City.

“A lot of the younger crowd picked up the DIY bug. We provided a wide
range of vinifera, hybrid and native varieties, using people’s interest to

heighten consumer consciousness,”

Working Around the Fires California and Washington to winemakers across the country. “In
2020, I was fine on sourcing grapes. Many customers, including
Wildfires in numerous wine growing areas limited what some AWS members, wanted to make wine. I did feel a lot of strain having
winemakers could create. Gordon Gribble, an amateur winemaker to decline fruit from areas that experienced fires. I have experience
based in New Hampshire, is used to making red and white wines with making those choices, given the fires in 2017,” said Brehm.
from grapes grown in Sonoma or Napa counties in California,
the Willamette Valley in Oregon, and the Columbia Valley in Fulkerson said he saw a slight increase in home winemaking in
Washington. “In 2020, Charles Smith Vineyard lost many wine 2020. “A lot of the younger crowd picked up the DIY bug. We
grapes to smoke damage. Sonoma County experienced such severe provided a wide range of vinifera, hybrid and native varieties,
fires that we couldn’t buy grapes from his vineyard this year, losing using people’s interest to heighten consumer consciousness,”
my 100 lb Cabernet Sauvignon order,” said Gribble. said Fulkerson. Fulkerson had staff stagger appointments and
encouraged customers to wait in their cars “until the lines died
Gribble said the fires encouraged him to think creatively. He down.” “Fortunately, the space that a carboy container takes up
drew on his years of experience in amateur winemaking and the in front of a person in a line helps with social distancing,” said
knowledge he’d gained from attending AWS seminars to pick Fulkerson.
grapes that were not exposed to smoke taint. Ultimately, Gribble
reached out for “200 lbs of red grapes and 30 gallons of white juice” Christina Musto, head of marketing and sales at Musto Wine Grape
from two grape brokers, Steven Fulkerson of Fulkerson Winery Company in Hartford, Connecticut, said sourcing from more
in Dundee, New York and Peter Brehm of Brehm Vineyards in remote regions, like Chile and South Africa, has not been easy.
Albany, California, respectively. “There may be delays because of shutdowns and staffing issues.
The California vineyards from which we source in the Central
Brehm Vineyards supplies crushed and frozen wine grapes from

PAhMotEoRBICy:ASNasWh PINhEotSoOgrCaIpEhTyY.ORG 17

Valley and the Suisun Valley did not experience fires,” said Musto. also had 20 to 30 socially distanced tables outside,” said Guber.
Musto said some amateur winemakers did not make wine this Liza Munion, an amateur winemaker and AWS member based in
year because of the pandemic. Those who did made less wine. Florida, said her family was disappointed that U-Pick farms were
She added the 2021 harvest looks promising because this year closed due to the pandemic. “I prefer getting grapes to juices. I
“has been a good year, growing-wise.” “It definitely was a difficult want to touch it all, smash the grapes and see how sweet they
year. Nobody took a lot of chances. Yet customers showed they are. I also enjoy picking blueberries, which are widely available in
want to continue their home winemaking traditions,” said Musto. Florida. We make wine from them, too,” said Munion.
Musto said her company has supplied wine grapes to amateur
winemakers for four generations. In 2020, Musto Wine Grape In 2020, Munion was able to source from Pardo Wine Grapes, a
Company substituted its usual in-store classes with videos, grape broker that has offered grapes and juice to home winemakers
handouts, and social media outreach through Instagram Live in Florida for 70 years. “We also picked up an order of blueberries
and Facebook Live. It also offered a new online winemaking video from a farm, paying ahead of time and getting them through an
course. appointment,” said Munion.

Shaking it up Munion said one of the most rewarding experiences she had in
2020 was using the knowledge she has gained through AWS to
A number of AWS members avoided the concerns of 2020 by introduce a friend to home winemaking. “I started her off on a
changing their standard practices. Al Guber, an amateur winemaker kit, and we used Facetime calls to go through the steps. It was
and AWS member based in Virginia, said he did not make any fun, even from a distance,” said Munion. Munion said she and her
wine in 2020. “That’s because I made double the amount in 2019. friend each created a Malbec. “She also made wine from a juice.
Most of my fruit was from California. Some was from Virginia via She did pretty well. I really appreciate the guidance of Betty and
Effingham Manor and Winery in Nokesville, Virginia. This is a Donnie Nettles (the 2020 AWS Best in Show Winners) for their
small, historic winery in which I’m an investor-owner,” said Guber. years of tips and tasting suggestions,” said Munion.

Guber said he was shocked that Effingham’s sales went up during About the Author
the pandemic. “We had to increase production, though most of
the sales happened at the winery. Since we are lucky to have a Jessica Zimmer is a news reporter, attorney, and
very large venue, we set up socially distanced tasting rooms. We educator based in northern California. She has worked in
journalism for over 20 years. She covers  a wide variety
of industries, including alcoholic beverage production,
transportation, law, and the arts.

The entrance to Musto Wine Grape Company which provides wine grape Team members help load wine grapes into a customer's truck at Musto Wine
juices and winemaking advice to many American Wine Society members in Grape Company in Hartford, Connecticut during the COVID-19 pandemic in
Connecticut. Photo courtesy of: Christina Musto 2020. Photo courtesy of: Christina Musto

18 AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG

19

Exploring the

MONT

2Sa0lina's Valley Fog. Photo Courtesy of: montereywines.org AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG
Photo courtesy of: Lindsey Williams and Davidson Wine Co.

COVER STORY

TEREY
AVA
BY MIKE BOTWIN

AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG 21

For the past 40 years, since my family and I Photos on this page Courtesy of: montereywines.org
moved to San Luis Obispo, we've traveled
north on Highway U.S. 101 scores of times-- most of way) and 10-20 miles wide--fills in the relatively flat valley
and are still overwhelmed.  A short drive and between the San Lucia Mountains in the west and Gavilan Range in
one encounters what seems to be vast and the east.   The valley north of Salinas to the Pacific is not currently
seamless vineyards.  Vineyards, on both sides planted--too cold for grapes--but with climate change who knows.  
of the highway, without fencing and without
any indication of ownership.     The region is very dry, with about 10" of rain per year, extremely windy
and greatly affected by the afternoon fogs and cooling effects of the
These plantings stretch close to 50 miles to north of Gonzales-- Pacific Ocean in which the Salinas River empties.  All of the above
one of several farming communities along the way ( San Ardo, San factors have their impact on the growing of grapes here.  Happily,
Lucas, King City, Greenfield and Soledad ). Somewhere along the there lies below the Salinas River an underground river (actually
line lettuce, broccoli and other vegetable farms are also very much an aquifer) which can be tapped for irrigation of the vines (and, of
in evidence-- after all, this is the Salinas Valley, which is rightly course, for the farming of vegetables).  With proper orientation of
known as the "Salad Bowl of America".  I've been puzzled for years the vines and careful trellising techniques the devastating effects
by the anonymity of this sea of vineyards, the dearth of producing of the winds can be overcome. 
wineries and fewer still, wineries with tasting rooms. Here in lies
my quest to solve this dilemma.   The fog and the cooling effects from the Ocean are, in fact, positives
in that they allow for long, cool growing seasons (mostly Region I in
The Monterey American Viticulture Area (AVA) --officially some 80 the UC Davis climate classification) that are perfect for Chardonnay
miles along the Salinas River (and US 101, which parallels the river and other cool-climate grapes.  These ocean effects dissipate going
south in the valley and around San Lucas hearty red varieties
22 dominate the landscape.  

AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG

THE MONTEREY AVA

 The Monterey AVA (established in 1983) is planted to over 40,000
acres (comparing to 46,000 for Napa Valley) and contains within
its boundaries 6 sub-appellations: San Lucia Highlands, Arroyo
Seco, San Lucas., San Bernabe, Hames Valley and San Antonio
Valley. It also includes land that is not a part of other sub-AVAs 
Two other independent AVAs exist in the county:  Carmel Valley

and Chalone.
 
The Franciscan fathers at the Soledad Mission were probably
the first to plant grapes (in 1700s) and make wine in the region. 
Fast forward to 1919 when a Frenchman, Charles Tamm, planted
vineyards in what is now Chalone Vineyards, likening the

limestone soils to Burgundy.  The historic block of Chenin
Blanc vines is still used to produce wines over 100 years later.
Richard Graff later purchased the vineyard and built a winery
in the remote eastern foothills of the Gavilan Mountain Range. 
After Graff's death in 1998 the property saw several owners
and now is run by the Foley Family, which also owns a plethora

of wineries in New Zealand, Washington and California.  
The Chalone AVA established in 1983 is planted with 300 GraphicCourtesyof:www.ffwsales.com
acres and has only  two wineries--Chalone and the nearby 
Michaud Winery of  David Michaud, who was one of  Graff's
winemakers.  
 

The "serious" vineyard development in the Valley started in
the 1960s when two south San Francisco Bay wineries felt
themselves being squeezed by urban sprawl.  With a nod
from UC Davis, which recognized the potential for vineyards in this
region, Mirassou (1962) planted 900 acres for Paul Masson in the
Salinas Valley. Mirassou also had their own vineyards in the area
which topped out at 800 acres.  The initial 900 acres for Masson
increased to a total of 5,500 acres.

In 1963 Wente planted 300 acres and created a nursery to supply Chalone Vineyard Truck. Photo Courtesy of: www.ffwsales.com
other vintners with wine, vine cuttings and root stock.  This has
since been increased to 1,000 acres in the Arroyo Seco area.  Today
over 50% of Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc planted in California
is directly related to the Wente clones. Almaden, with vast vineyards
and a winery in nearby San Benito County, started planting in 1970
what began 2,000 acres in King City and San Lucas.

Of these pioneering four only Wente still has a direct presence in Chardonnay Vines at Wente Vineyards. Photo Courtesy of: wentevineyards.com Photo By: Julie Brothers
the area. Mirassou, once a proud family winery, is now in the Gallo
fold (#1 corporation in the U.S. wine business) and its vineyards have 23
been sold. Ironically, Almaden and Paul Masson, who were rivals in
their day, are jug and box wine labels in the portfolio of The Wine
Group (the second largest wine corporation in the U.S.).  The Paul
Masson winery and most of its vineyards were sold to the Napa
Valley Franciscan Winery for their Estancia line and in turn was
sold to Constellation (#3 in the U.S), which uses the winery for the
production of Estancia and other wines in their bag.  

AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG

1970s Impact

If the '60s saw a natural expansion of plantings by wineries from the
San Francisco Bay area the explosion of the vineyards in the '70s
was entirely different in nature.  Total acreage in Monterey County
grew from 2,500 acres at the end of the 1960s to 25,000 acres at the
end of the 1970s. There were locals seeking to convert their farms
to profitable vineyards and then there were opportunists looking
for tax credits. 

Of the first category, the vineyard manager Jerry M c F a r l a n d
sought a facility to place grapes for his constituents. The Monterey
Vineyards, a partnership of investors with the well-respected
winemaker Richard Peterson (of Gallo and Beaulieu) was founded
in 1973 for that purpose. A handsome, mission style, 4-million-gallon
capacity winery with a watch-tower--and, yes, a large tasting room,
was built bordering the highway in Gonzales. They produced some
notable wines but got in trouble with extremely vegetative Cabernet
Sauvignons that were planted in a region just too cool for this variety. 
Three years later Coca-Cola of Atlanta bought the entire package
and added a 15 million gallon capacity adjoining winery for their
Taylor California Cellars adventure-- wines of Central Valley and
Monterey blends. Both wineries--sans tasting room-- now known
as Blackstone, are now under the joint control of a Constellation
and Hardy's of Australia partnership.  

Two other nearby wineries--both of moderate scale-- started
up shortly after Monterey Vineyards—Ventana and Jekel. 
Ventana's prime interest was in growing high quality grapes,
which were well adapted to the cool Region I climate, to be sold
to wineries throughout California.  Ventana's on-site winery
produced excellent Chardonnay, among other wines.  Bill
Jekel's, interest--as opposed to Ventana's--was to produce
estate grown wines from the 300 or so acres he controlled.
And he did—very good wines, indeed.  Visitors were
welcomed, too.  When Bill passed away the enterprise
was acquired by the corporate Brown-Forman Company
(owners of Fetzer and Sonoma-Cutrer among other
wineries)--and the tasting room was then closed. When
they felt Jekel was not as profitable as they liked it was,
in turn, sold--this time to a local partnership.  

"Total acreage in Monterey County

grew from 2,500 acres at the end of

the 1960s to 25,000 acres at the end

of the 1970s. "

24 Photo Courtesyof: folktalewinegroup.com/trade Salina's Valley VineAyaMrdsE. PRhoItCo CAoNurtWesyIoNf: EseeSmOonCteIrEeyT.coYm.ORG

Power of the Tax Credit Al Scheid was in charge of vineyard investment for Hutton during
the time of the tax credit schemes and when the project fizzed out
Now back to the dilettantes and their tax credit ploys. The 1970s tax in 1988 Scheid jumped in and bought the 5,600 acres that were
laws, since changed, allowed big tax credits for vineyard development planted. He built a winery, just south of Greenfield that can be
and thus sparked huge investments in Monterey County with the seen from the highway, with a tasting room and a custom crush
purpose of supplying bulk wines for northern California enterprises. facility.  Scheid went on to develop several other vineyards that are
Two investment companies, Prudential Insurance and E.F Hutton, scattered throughout the county including in the southern region of
in particular, had a lasting effect on the Monterey AVA.   Hames Valley AVA (Region III-established in 1994 and is planted to
  2,200 acres of grapes but has no wineries). Scheid Family Wines sells
Prudential, with the money from the funds from their high-end most of their fruit but is increasing production of their own wines.  
investors, developed a 8,500 acre vineyard, known as the Sundown  
Land Company, south of King City--at the time this was the largest Around the same time Scheid was cranking up their winery a trio
contiguous vineyard in the world. When the investment soured the of partners--not in any way associated with the tax credit ideas
Delicato family, owners of a large Central Valley winery bought the mentioned above-- planted 1,850 acres west of San Lucas with the
property. They've since sold portions of the vineyard and are down intent of selling most of their fruit.  In 1989 they built a winery in
to a mere 1,800 acres and have focused on producing quality fruit which they produce a line of wines, under the Lockwood name,
—Prudential did not—and built a production facility on the site. that's focused on hearty reds that are compatible with the warm
This vineyard once comprised the sole vineyard in the San Bernabe location inland from the Pacific. The big French negociant Boisset,
AVA (established in 2004 and today consists of about 5,000 acres of with holdings in northern California which include Buena Vista
vineyard).  Being quite inland from the mouth of the Salinas River and Raymond, now owns the vineyards and winery.  Lockwood is
the area is relatively warm.  Delicato still sells a large share of their the only producing winery in the San Lucas AVA, although Robert
fruit but produces their own wines under multiple labels including Mondavi, Scheid, Blackstone and Diaego, among others, have
Diora, Gnarly Head, Noble Vines, Z. Alexander Brown and Irony.   interests in the AVA.  
 

Buena Vista Winery, Old and New. Photo Courtesy of: boissetcollection.com

AMBigESRurICCoAasNtlinWe. IPNhoEtoSCOouCrteIEsyTof:Ym.OonRteGreywines.org Lockwood wine barrel and bottle shot. Photo Courtesy of: boissetcollection.com 25

San Lucia Highlands AVA in California. Perhaps at the top of this list of vineyards are the
Garys' Vineyard and Soberanes Vineyard, both jointly owned by two
If you're interested, like I am, in visiting wineries that have tasting Garys—Pisoni and Franscioni. Both Garys come from families that
facilities in conjunction with their production set-up and vineyards for generations have farmed in this locale. Individually they each
then the River Road Wine Trail is THE place in the Salinas Valley. The own other vineyards in SLH. They sell most of their fruit, but keep
likelihood of good interaction with an informed host, a winemaker enough for themselves to produce their own wines.
and/or a principal is strong at this type of operation.  A stand-alone  
tasting room, at least for me, leaves a lot to be desired.  The Wine To complete the Monterey AVA picture we need a few words about
Trail follows the Salinas River along River Road on the west side the far south San Antonio Valley AVA—the newest (2006) and
of U.S. 101 between Soledad and Chular. River Road is also the smallest AVA (800 planted acres) in the region.  There are only a
defining eastern edge of the long and narrow San Lucia Highlands few small, family run vineyards and wineries in this very warm—
AVA. Along the Trail six wineries open their doors with tasting Region III+ —zone.  Most folks are concentrating on red Bordeaux
rooms for visitors. Hahn Estate is the only one of these officially and Rhone varieties but Pierce Ranch has great faith in reds from
in the SLH AVA.  Portugal and Spain.
 
The SLH AVA was established in 1990 and is planted to 6,400 acres Wine tourists are directed to over 40 tasting rooms on the Monterey
of which over 3,500 are to Pinot Noir—Chardonnay and Syrah play Peninsula—Carmel and the city of Monterey—and to the charming
second and third fiddle. The southeast facing bench land of the AVA town of Carmel Valley, in the hills outside of Carmel—It is also the
rises rapidly to over 2400' from River Road and the flat and fertile focal point of the Carmel Valley AVA. These tourist oriented towns
valley of the Salinas River. This is Region I territory dominated by are in the order of an hour's drive from Soledad. The several farming
strong afternoon winds and fog. A high diurnal temperature swing towns along the U.S. 101 strip serve the one-night travelers with a
during the growing season is the norm.  few roadside motels and a variety of serviceable restaurants. There
are, at this point, no lodges, hotels, motels and only a few restaurants
What makes this region special? The fog and winds, yes, but certainly that cater to wine tourists (Cork and Plough in King City and Luigi's
the high- altitude terraces with favorable southeastern exposure help.  in Gonzales are our favorites). More to come?
Add to this the relatively small and carefully groomed vineyards. 
As to the winds, it's felt the berry skins tend to thicken as a defense I would like to acknowledge Kim Stemler, Executive Director of the
to the winds resulting in, especially for Pinot Noir, tannic and firm Monterey Vintners and Growers Association, for her valuable help on
wines that are generous in acidity, alcohol, body weight and black- this article.
fruit flavors. Pinot Noir is sought by virtually every Pinot specialist

Top 6 Wineries
on the

River Road
Wine Trail

1. Wrath Winery
2. Manzoni Winery
3. Puma Road Winery
4. Odonata Winery
5. Chalone Vineyards
6. Schied Family Wines

Jeff, Mark and Gary Pisoni. Photo Courtesy of: montereywines.org

2PP6hhoototCoouCroteusyrotf:essanyluocfia:hwigihnlaentdas.csotming-demystified.com About the Author

Mike Botwin is a wine educator, an AWS member since 1973 and 
the Director of the San Luis Obispo Chapter. He can be reached
at [email protected].

AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG

SIPTALK

Kevin Zrlay
Earns AWS Award of Merit

By Jim Rink

W indows on the World-renowned wine educator Kevin every major wine region in France, Italy, Spain, Portugal and Germany
Zraly is the recipient of this year’s AWS Award of Merit, taking in as much wine knowledge as possible. In April of 1976, famed
and no one is more deserving. Zraly is an award-winning restaurateur Joe Baum hired Kevin to “create the biggest and best
wine writer — in May 2011 he earned the James Beard Lifetime wine list New York has ever seen, and don't worry about how much

Achievement Award — and one of the world's foremost wine educators. it costs!” for Windows of the World, located on the 106th and 107th

Kevin has been teaching wine for 50 years, sharing his passion with floors of New York City's World Trade Center. 

thousands of eager students from all walks of life. He has written eight

books about wine and food, including his annually updated Windows Not only did Zraly create an award-winning wine list, he also started

on the World Complete Wine Course, which has sold more than four what became the most well-known wine education program in the

million copies - making it the number one wine book in the United world – the Windows on the World Wine School. The school continued

States. In the fall of 2020, he will release the uninterrupted for 25 years until the tragic

35th anniversary edition of the book.  "Not only did Zraly create destruction of the World Trade Center
on September 11, 2001.  Eventually, Zraly
Zraly has also co-authored the definitive an award-winning wine list, relaunched the school in a new setting and
book about red wine – aptly named Red it ran successfully until he held his final class
Wine – with The World Wine Guys, Mike he also started what became in November, 2016.  The school graduated

DeSimone and Jeff Jenssen.  Kevin is the the most well-known wine more than 20,000 "happy" students.  
youngest person to receive the James Beard education program in the Zraly is the creator of the New York Wine
Lifetime Achievement Award, recognized

for his commitment to making the study of world – the Windows on the Experience, one of the country's most
wine accessible and fun to all as well as for popular wine events. He also spent four
World Wine School. "
his monumental contributions to the world years working with the Smith & Wollensky

of food and wine. He is also one of only three Restaurant Group, and in 2002, partnered

people from the world of wine to receive this recognition – the other with the legendary wine store, Sherry-Lehmann Wine & Spirits,

two being Robert Mondavi and Ernest Gallo. where he started to teach his famous One Hour Wine Expert classes,

a variety of Advanced Wine Courses and Master Classes. 

In 1970, Zraly began working at The DePuy Canal House in High

Falls, New York, helping the restaurant earn an unprecedented four- Zraly has shared his passion for the enjoyment of wine through

star review from Craig Claiborne of The New York Times.  The next his books, appearances on major television networks, and through

year, Kevin taught his first wine class – "Wine & Cheese 101." In 1972, features in The New York Times, People, The Wall Street Journal, GQ

Kevin hitchhiked to California to visit all of the state’s wineries…all 24 Magazine and many others.  Zraly continues to teach and entertain

of them!  Shortly thereafter, he convinced the administration of his through his virtual wine classes, dinners and events for corporations

state college to offer their first accredited wine course, “Wine History, and individuals. Zraly is the father of four children (vintages '91, '93,

Types & Production,” which he taught to the college seniors while he '97 and '99), and lives in New Paltz, New York.

himself was still a junior.  Following his graduation, Zraly traveled to

AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG 27

NEW OR

NOTEWORTHY
BY JIM RINK

NEW NATURALIS WINES 100-PERCENT CERTIFIED ORGANIC

"My family has been making wines for 135 years, and organic
farming has been a critical part of our story and our leadership
here in Australia for many decades," said Richard Angove, joint
managing director for Angove Family Winemakers. "Naturalis
wines are the purest take on our family's organic grape growing
and winemaking, and we couldn't be happier to expand our
partnership with Trinchero Family Estates to bring them to
the U.S. market."

The Angove family has long understood that vineyards are

more than the source of their grapes – they are part of a holistic,

Photo courtesy of: www.drinkstrade.com.au interconnected system. It is the health of the entire vineyard

Naturalis Wines – a new line of wines made from 100 percent ecosystem that provides the best tasting grapes with the
certified organic grapes – today announced its debut with fullest flavor. At no stage does the Angove family use synthetic
Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon. These pesticides, herbicides, fungicides or fertilizers when growing the
gluten-free, vegan-friendly, non-GMO wines are bottled in eco- certified organic grapes for Naturalis. Angove Family Vineyards
minded lightweight glass and available nationwide for $14 SRP. also supports healthy biodiversity within their vineyards. They
This line from the fifth-generation Angove winemaking family believe the humble honeybee – a symbol prominently represented
is the latest to join the Angove Family Winemakers portfolio, on Naturalis' label – is vital to the local flora and fauna that thrive
imported by Trinchero Family Estates for more than 15 years. in their organic vineyards.

FINGER LAKES WINEMAKER ANNOUNCES NEW PODCAST

Podcast growth and listenership accelerated during the Covid-19 emphasize the value of appreciating the aesthetics involved in

pandemic.  An article published in Forbes in February, reported living a good life. 

that podcasts reached an estimated 100 million Americans each

month in 2020, with Business Insider noting that listenership Content creators such as Wine Folly and Wine Enthusiast publish

more than doubled since 2016, and is expected to grow year eponymous podcasts, and in recommended top podcast lists,

over year at a rate of 16%.  they include Elizabeth Schneider's "Wine for Normal People,"

Levi Dalton's "I'll Drink to That," Natalie

Against the backdrop of continued podcast growth, Finger Lakes MacLean's "Unreserved Wine Talk". Joining

winemaker Chris Missick is proud to announce the launch of the ranks of wine related podcasts, Viti+Culture

Viti+Culture.  The Viti+Culture Podcast can be found on Apple is unique in that it is one of the few in the genre

Podcasts, Spotify, and will feature videos of all interviews on its to be hosted by a winemaker, features both

YouTube channel. "We'll talk a lot about wine, but that won't be video and audio, and seeks to go beyond the

the whole conversation," Missick says.  Viti+Culture will share glass to explore a range of topics beyond wine,

conversations with makers, growers, thinkers, and doers, and from history, philosophy, art, and music, to

sustainability. 

28

INDUSTRYNEWS

AMERICA RESCUE PLAN ENACTED

According to Jim Trezise of WineAmerica, a $1.9 Trillion Covid rescue
package will benefit the wine industry, at least indirectly.

For the wine industry, the massive bill's most direct benefits will
flow from provisions of the Restaurants Act which includes direct
grants to eating and drinking establishments, including winery tasting
rooms, adversely affected by the Covid crisis. Covering a period
retroactive to February 15, 2020 and extending through this year,
eligible expenses include wages, benefits, mortgage and rent payments,
building maintenance and outdoor construction, food, and many
other categories.

The funds may be used in conjunction with support from the Paycheck
Protection Program, Economic Injury Disaster Loans, and Employee
Retention Tax Credit as long as they do not cover the same expenses.
Beyond direct grants to eligible tasting rooms, this bill will indirectly
benefit the wine industry by helping beleaguered restaurants reopen
and restock their wine cellars over time. The American Rescue Plan
includes $28.6 billion, but the ultimate goal is $120 billion, and there
is already broad bipartisan support for the stand-alone version of the
bill, with 149 (139 D, 10 R) cosponsors in the House and 32 (28 D, 4 R)
in the Senate. WineAmerica staff is working hard to increase those
numbers in both chambers on both sides of the aisle

TEXAS RESTAURANT ASSOCIATION AND OTHERS TEAM UP TO VACCINATE
HOSPITALITY WORKERS

TheTexasRestaurantAssociation(TRA)andothergroupshaveteamed support shown by like-minded organizations, sports teams, hospitals,
upforamulti-cityinitiativetovaccinatetensofthousandsofhospitality and other partners who are committed to helping our industry's best
workers across the state. Industry workers can sign up via the links on asset - its people."
the program website: txhospitalityvaccines.com

The vaccine drive kicked off in Houston on Monday, April 19 and 29
Tuesday, April 20 for a clinic at the Smart Financial Centre. The clinic
will be open from 7:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. Memorial Hermann Health
System will serve as the vaccine administrator with support given by
Fertitta Entertainment and the Houston Rockets. Memorial Hermann
will administer approximately 12,000 doses of the Pfizer vaccine
(6,000 per day) to individuals ages 16 and older. "There is an urgency
to vaccinate our restaurant workers who are serving guests every day in
the dining rooms of Texas," said Dr. Emily Williams Knight, President
and CEO of TRA. "In addition to the resolute precautions taken by
restaurants, a vaccine against COVID-19 will provide one more level
of protection for our employees. We are thankful for the tremendous

AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG

Photo courtesy of: Michael Collins and doatlanticcity.com

Photo courtesy of: Peter Tobia and doatlanticcity.com Photo courtesy of: Peter Tobia and doatlanticcity.com Photo courtesy of: doatlanticcity.com

ocean, casinos, wine, & fun

November 4-6. Book your stay now!

AWS National Conference in Atlantic City, New Jersey

40+ sit down classroom-style wine sessions • Pre-conference winery tours
2021 AWS Wine Competitions • WSET and WJCP certifications

30 AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG

PERSPECTIVE

HiTE CLA

Piquette
THE W W

E
OF WiN

By Tamara Belgard

P iquetteisabeveragethat’smadebyaddingwater
to the solid remains of grape skins, stems, and

seeds (pomace) leftover from the winemaking

process which are then fermented, using up any

remaining sugars. It’s easiest to think about it creatinganotherproductfromthesamerawmaterialsthatwouldhave
as the beverage that took a detour on its way gone to waste? Upcycling of the pomace, which would normally just
to becoming Grappa. The resulting product is be composted, allows winemakers the ability to utilize those leftovers
a highly quaffable, low-alcohol beverage that’s to make something quite tasty.

kind of mid-way between wine and hard seltzer, clocking in at about

six percent ABV. Beer enthusiasts might refer to it as a session wine.

From a business sustainability standpoint, Piquette is the ultimate

Some might argue that technically, Piquette is not really wine at all. gift-horse. Producers are taking a "waste" product and turning it

All the different names I’ve heard it called signify the many differing into something they can sell. Grapes are, by a wide margin, the most

opinions. Some call it wine or petit vin, others call it wine-light or expensive component in a winery’s per-bottle cost. So, in a sense,

wine-adjacent. I’ve also heard consumers refer to it as “wine’s sloppy the pomace is free, because they've already worked the grape costs

seconds,” and “The White Claw of Wine.” Perhaps the subject is more into their actual wine production. Resourceful producers relish in the

polarizing than politics. opportunity to use good grapes in every way they can in addition to

making something that is approachable both in style and price point.

While the category—and whether or not the market is embracing it That said, there are definitely still some budgetary aspects to consider.
yet—may not be crystal clear, what is true is that for winemakers and Sparkling wine bottles are wildly expensive, so some wineries are
consumers who value sustainability and environmental responsibility, putting their Piquette in cans to mitigate the bottle cost, and since the
this age-old method of using everything a harvest delivers makes government considers it "sparkling wine," wineries pay much higher
perfect sense. Is there anything more sustainable than "upcycling," excise taxes.

AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG 31

"Piquette seems to satisfy the mid-point between wine and hard seltzer. And for people with a soft
spot in their heart for products that reduce environmental impact, who also want something light
and easy-drinking....Piquette is perfection."

Graphic courtesy of: mysa.wine/blogs/ THE PEOPLE’S WINE

32 But Piquette wasn’t created as a beverage to utilize winemaking waste.
Nor was it made to appeal to a new generation of drinkers looking for the
next best thing. Piquette was created for the viticultural community who
couldn’t actually afford the wine they were making. According to the
Wine Enthusiast, “Derived from the French word for “prick” or “prickle,”
which describes the drink’s slight fizz, piquette dates to ancient Greek
and Roman times, when it was known as lora. Considered a meager,
cheap-to-produce drink made from the scraps of winemaking, it was
given to slaves and field workers.” And as wine prices have continued to
climb over the years, where wine has become more of a luxury good and
collector’s item that so often signifies status and exclusivity, Piquette
could be the drink that breaks through all those barriers. Consider it
The People’s Wine.

Like so many wine things, everything old is new again. So, while this
production style has been around for ages, it’s seeing something of a
revival as the market becomes more educated and demands more and
different products. Especially among millennials and “natural wine”
drinkers. There is a big interest right now in lower-alcohol beverages,
so Piquette seems to satisfy the mid-point between wine and say, hard
seltzer. And for people with a soft spot in their heart for products that
reduce environmental impact, who also want something light and
easy-drinking, but with a more legible ingredient composition than
hard seltzer, Piquette is perfection.

I tend to approach Piquette much the way I might Petillant Natural; I
know that it’s likely to be quirky, whimsical, perhaps even a bit funky, and
I appreciate that it’s a product that winemakers can be more playful with.
It’s a fun pop of fizz you don’t need to think too hard about. And with
the sustainability factor, consumers can even feel good about drinking
it—which makes it ten times better than say a refreshing Aperol Spritz.

It’s really all about managing expectations. If you’re a wine purist,
expecting to drink something that tastes and ages like fine wine, you’ll
feel let down. If it’s a hot summer day and you’re looking for a ridiculously
affordable, low-alcohol that supports your core of sustainable ethics,
pour yourself a glass or two of Piquette. Just don’t think of it as wine.

About the Author
Tamara Belgard is a freelance journalist based in Portland
Oregon. When not chasing down stories for publications like The
Oregonian, WinePress NW, Oregon Wine Press, SIP Northwest,
NW Travel and Life, Portland Monthly, and EaterPdx, you might
stumble upon her traipsing through wine country, exploring new
restaurants, pouring over cookbooks, or searching out hidden
gems from the racks of her favorite wine shops.

AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG

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34 AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG

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From Musto Wine Grape Company

Taught by Frank Renaldi

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in Atlantic City, NJ.
November 4, 2021.
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