W ne Journal American Wine Society® winter 2023 The Upper Mississippi River Valley AVA is in the heart of America, even though its grapes and practices may seem a bit foreign to warmer-weather winegrowers. A Day With Joel Peterson New Wine Celebrates Virginia Agriculture Terroir vs. Climate Sipping Semillon Cool Climate Tips & Tricks Is that Cherry You Taste? Driftless Exploring the
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AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG 33 6 WINE101 Cherry Notes - M. March Recognizing fruity aromas and flavors in wines helps drive a conclusion about the wine’s identity, and there are a number of varietals that come with a cherry on top. winter contents 14 FEATURE Joel Peterson - Al Guber and Kevin Ringham Al Guber, Kevin Ringham, Mike Wassenberg and Doug Beakes spent a day with California wine icon and AWS Award of Merit winner Joel Peterson. 6 12 17 14 12 SIPTALK A Diamond in the Rough - Jack Costa Once the gem of South Africa, Semillon is a grape variety that may deserve a second look. RESEARCH Terroir vs Climate - Loris Jones-Randolph, CMS A look into the effects of climate change into the climats of Chablis. 8 COVERSTORY In the Driftless - Roger Morris The Upper Mississippi River Valley AVA can be cold and harsh, but offers tons of opportunities for enterprising winegrowers. 17
AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG 4 EDITOR’S LETTER By Jim Rink “Wine makes every meal an occasion, every table more elegant, every day more civilized. ” - André Simon VOLUME 55 NO. 4 WINTER 2023 Stay thirsty, Published by The American Wine Society a non-profit corporation, PO Box 889, Scranton, PA 18501 Single copies $5.00 Copyright 2023 AWS Inc. © All rights reserved. Reproduction or use of editorial or pictorial content without written permission is prohibited. Library of Congress Class Number: TP544 A46A3 LC Card 76-647900 Publisher John Sporing Editor Jim Rink Contributing Writers Jack Costa, Al Guber, Michael Kelly, M. March, Roger Morris, Loris Jones-Randolph, Jim Rink, and Jessica Zimmer Editorial Office Jim Rink 20020 Maple St. Lake Ann, MI 49650 [email protected] Unsolicited manuscripts or other information will not be returned unless accompanied by return postage. Advertising Office PO Box 889 Scranton, PA 18501 888-AWS-9070 [email protected] Creative/Production Briana Fedorko Blue Flower Graphic Design 570-852-0744 [email protected] blueflowergd.com This quote is so true, especially because wine firstly and immediately requires our attention. It is so nuanced, inspires discussion, involves all the senses. It can elevate our mood and our openness to all possibilities. In this issue of the Journal, the senses and the seasons are both evident and we start with the maestro himself, Roger Morris, who takes us into the Driftless. Also, known as “The Driftless,” the Upper Mississippi River Valley AVA can be cold and harsh, but offers opportunities for enterprising winegrowers, says Roger. Look for a lot of Minnesota hybrids in this region. Speaking of cold, Jessica Zimmer offers tips and tricks for cool-climate winegrowers, including some new high-tech offerings. And, and in the areas of the globe that are heating up department: we have new contributor Loris Jones-Randolph, CMS, who gives us a look into the effects of climate change into the climats of Chablis. Jack Costa re-introduces us to Semillon, a diamond in the rough that started out as the gem of South Africa. Semillon, similar to Sauv Blanc or Chardonnay, is finicky, but might deserve a second look. AWS icon Al Guber recently went out to California with some friends to visit with AWS Award of Merit winner and California wine icon Joel Peterson. Read his account here. Recognizing fruity aromas and flavors in wines helps drive a conclusion about the wine’s identity, and there are a number of varietals that come with a cherry on top. We welcome new contributor M. March, who does a deep dive into this delicious topic. W ne Journal American Wine Society® winter contents 24 INDUSTRYNEWS - Jim Rink Jim Rink delivers the latest happenings from the wine industry. WINEGROWING Cool Climate Tips and Tricks - Jessica Zimmer Growers can do a great deal to help wine grape vines thrive in cool climates. Jessica Zimmer has tips and tricks from seasoned professionals. 22 24 22
AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG 5 ABOUTAWS JOIN AWS The AWS is the largest consumer based wine education organization in the U.S. A non-profit group, the AWS is devoted to educating people on all aspects of wine. Its members include wine novices, experts, grape growers, amateur and professional wine-makers, chefs, wine appreciators, wine educators, restaurateurs, and anyone wanting to learn more about wine. AWS ACTIVITIES Chapters: Local community groups of AWS members sponsor programs, usually monthly. Activities include: tastings, dinners, lectures, picnics, winery tours, wine-making and cooking demonstrations, viticulture conferences, amateur wine-judging events, and other wine-related social events. Guests are welcome and novices have nothing to fear. Chapters are self-supporting, so expect a nominal charge to attend a tasting, dinner, etc. If a local chapter does not exist in your area, the national office will be glad to assist in forming a chapter. All that is needed are a few interested wine lovers. Meeting can be informal and held in member homes or in other settings, such as restaurants and wineries. Regional Events: Organized by regional vice-presidents, include statewide wine judging, contests, special tastings, regional wine conferences, regional picnics and special dinners. National Conference: Held each fall—a two and one-half day national conference and extravaganza of wine. Attendees become part of a tradition that has drawn wine-lovers, wine-makers and gastronomes together every November for over 45 years. Prominent American and international speakers conduct seminars and lectures on all aspects of wine appreciation, wine production, grape growing and cuisine. Members experience fine food at connoisseur luncheons and dinners, tastings of hundreds of wines and royal treatment by the finest American hotels and resorts. The annual conference brings professionals, serious amateurs and novices together to discover what is new in wine. Founder Konstantin Frank AWS National Officers and Board of Directors President Bill Stefan Treasurer Rich Berezinsky Director of Membership Carrie A. Garczynski Vice President Eric Feldhake Director of Education Annemarie Morse Interim Executive Director John Sporing Secretary Ronald Natalie Director of Competitions Rex Bambling Member Services Manager Colleen Reardon Join on-line at americanwinesociety.org or mail in the form below Select type of membership Individual..........$49 3-Year Individual..........$124 Household (2 people living at same address).........$62 3-Year Household..........$158 Professional (includes wall plaque and website listing)..$99 Lifetime (one or two people living at same address)....$950 Student (ages 21-30, full-time student)..........$25 Canada and all other countries outside U.S. add $5 to above amounts (membership dues are non-refundable) SAVE 15% SAVE 15% Select method of payment Visa Discover Mastercard American Express Name on card Credit card number Cardholder’s signature Security code Expiration Check (payable to AWS) Last name I want to join the AWS I want to give an AWS Membership to: This Gift Membership Is From: First name Address City/State/Zip Code Phone w/Area Code Phone w/Area Code Chapter Member 1: Chapter Member 2: Secondary Member Name Last name Address Phone w/Area Code Email Email Email First name City/State/Zip Email • Participation in local chapter activities and events • Participation in local, regional and national events • Personalized membership card • AWS Bimonthly Newsletter • AWS vintage charts • Wine Judge Certification Program • National Wine Tasting Project • Wine-making competitions • AWS Wine Competition Discounts • Discounts from wineries and other AWS partners Complete and mail form to: American Wine Society PO Box 889 Scranton, PA 18501 Questions? We are ready to help! 888-AWS-9070 email: [email protected] AWS MEMBER BENEFITS INCLUDE:
6 AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG Cherry Notes Cherry Notes By M.Marchak What is better than the aroma of a freshly baked cherry pie? Perhaps only the taste! There are countless cherry varieties in the in the world with over 1,000 cherry varieties grown in the United States including Bing, Montmorency, Morello, Balaton, Rainier, and Lambert. Cherries range from tart to sweet and may be red, dark red, black or yellow. Cherry flavors are so popular, they are featured in baked goods, jams, chocolates, ice cream, juice, throat lozenges, children’s aspirin, and spirits. So it should be no surprise that cherry flavors are also important sensations in our enjoyment of wine.
AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG WINE101 7 In the Beaujolais region, geographically part of Burgundy, Beaujolais wines are made from Gamay. The wines reveal red cherry flavors, some even candied, but it is a distinct flavor profile from the Burgundy Pinot Noir made by its neighbor. Part of this variation results from carbonic maceration, a winemaking technique in which clusters of grapes are sealed in a tank filled with carbon dioxide to help preserve the fruity and juicy flavors of Beaujolais. France has other varietals used to make wine that have cherry aromas and flavors. For example, cherry flavors are often found in Grenache, either sour or tart, or even dark cherry. This flavor profile typically occurs in a GSM (Grenache-Syrah-Mourvèdre) blend, such as Chateauneuf-du-Pape, which is a cornucopia of varietals produced in France’s Rhone Valley. The Grenache in a GSM blend can add spiced red cherry and other red fruit flavors. This cherry flavor is different than Grenache from Australia’s McLaren Vale, a warmer climate, that displays darker cherry notes. Italy also produces wines with different cherry sensations. These varietals include Nebbiolo and Sangiovese. In the Piemonte region, the king and queen of wines, Barolo and Barbaresco respectively, are both made from the Nebbiolo grape and exhibit red cherry aromas and flavors, typically tart Morello cherry. Langhe Nebbiolo, also made in Piemonte, is produced from at least 85% Nebbiolo, but it typically reveals dark cherry notes. Italy’s other legendary red grape, Sangiovese, produces wine with cherry flavors in Tuscany to make Chianti and Brunello di Montalcino. The cherry flavors in these wines are either tart red cherries or dark cherries depending on the production method. With age, those fruity red cherry flavors may change to dried cherry or cherry jam flavors. The noble wine, Vino Nobile di Montepuliciano, is also made from Sangiovese, and has dark cherry notes as part of its flavor profile. The grape is the same, but the climates and winemaking styles differ. Cherry aromas and flavors in wine simply do not end with those named wines. More wines that reveal cherry flavors are made from varietals that include Carmenere, Tempranillo, Tannat, Zweigelt, Blaufränkisch and Cabernet Franc, among others, in different regions throughout the world. Cherries are as popular in wine as they are in other consumer products. So conjure up those cherry memories in your next red wine tasting to determine if cherry flavors are part of the flavor profile. If you have not sampled enough cherries in life, seek out the many varieties to create new flavor memories. Cherry Notes in French Region Wines Benefits of Eating Cherries Taste great and are a healthy snack Packed with fiber, vitamins, minerals, and antioxidants Contain high amounts of polyphenols, similar to wine. Polyphenols are a category of plant compounds naturally occurring in fruits, vegetables, tea, dark chocolate and wine. Tied to reduced inflammation and protection against heart disease, diabetes, and cancers. What Makes a Cherry Flavor Cherry Notes in Italian Regions What connects cherry fruit flavors to wine made from grapes are the chemical compounds in wine. The chemistry is complex but generally, chemical compounds, including esters, terpenes, and pyrazines, derived from the grape itself and the winemaking process. These chemical compounds are linked to certain aromas. When you swirl wine in the glass, the aroma compounds are disbursed into the air for your nose to sniff. Our sense of taste and smell react to these compounds, allowing our brain to identify the aromas and flavors in wine that we recognize from our memories. Recognizing fruity aromas and flavors in wines helps drive a conclusion about the wine’s identity, geography and quality. Primary, secondary and tertiary aromas and flavors are components of wine tasting. Red cherries are in the primary red fruit flavor category which includes raspberries, strawberries, cranberries, red plums and pomegranates while dark or black cherries are in the black fruit category which includes blackberries, blueberries, black plums, and black currants. Notes of sweet or tart cherries, red or black cherries, or even cherry jam, dried cherries and maraschino cherries flavors can be detected in wines. A classic example of cherry flavors is found in Pinot Noir, either red cherries and other red fruits or dark cherries, depending on the wine’s age, climate where grown, and winemaking technique. Fruity Pinot Noir from cooler climates typically reveals tart or red cherry flavors, an example being a youthful red Burgundy. Warmer climate Pinot Noir wines exhibit dark cherry flavors, typically Bing cherries, when made in Sonoma or Central Otago. Styles of winemaking can also add to this primary flavor profile. Other Wines That Reveal Cherry Flavors Carmenere Tempranillo Tanna Zweigelt Blaufrankisch Cabernet Franc
8 AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG he most northern part of Burgundy, Chablis, is where clean, mineral-driven white wines are produced, due in part to generous amounts of clay and limestone layered beneath the beautiful rolling peaks and valleys of this ancient seabed. Historically, the signature frigidity of the semi-continental, cool climate region also contributes to this style of winemaking. In the past few vintages however, vignerons whose families date back to the 11th-18th centuries have noticed a looming trend: much more sun. The Chablis microclimates are very delicate. Chablis is comprised of four appellation levels and 47 climats, and the effects of climate and climate change can vary. The climats, or a gathering of vines based on similar aspect, geology and history, are splayed out over the landscape which pushes itself outward to the sky and is dusted with clouds, the only possibility for grapes to hide from the sun’s warmth; even in the vineyard, the canopy is designed to maximize the amount of light the grapes receive. The region is open with vegetation strategically placed to prevent rain runoff and erosion. With vines strategically positioned only on slopes and hillsides with ample sun exposure, the short and intense summer is the only moment for vignerons to achieve ripeness. While it is believed that eastern exposures have the best ripeness, Sandrine Audegond, lecturer and wine researcher, has stated that in Chablis, “there is nothing to hide the sun” and unlike their counterparts in the Cote d’Or, no forest to cool the vines. Chablis’ inability to escape from the sun and heat is one of the reasons the winemakers can have eastern, western, southern, and different combinations, of exposures without having big issues with ripeness. In fact, Chablis wines typically go through malolactic fermentation, a conversion that would strip the wine of the necessary acid if ripeness were indeed an issue. The right bank of the Serine and location of all the Grand Cru climats, receives much more southernly sun, with a higher average temperature while the west facing premiere cru on the left side of the Serine, is flanked by the east facing village on alternating slopes. Vines that produce village wines can be planted at the top of hillsides, and experience much more daytime sun as a result. The difference in relying on photosynthesis or the heat from the sun’s rays already create a different taste profile in Chablis; with left bank wines being zestier from the need to absorb rays while the right bank’s persistent heat creates a soft and supple wine. A new trend of blending plots to create an identifiable and traditional Chablis has started within the last 10 years to combat the strenuous effects of the heat at the village appellation level, something usually left to the premier and grand cru. Audegond points to the separation of the Grand Cru climat at our feet; “you can observe similarities between all the plot due to aspect, orientation, percentage of slope. It is a question of how far can you go while making the same wine.” The climats of Chablis can present a consistency even with variations in climate; depending heavily on the soil that lies beneath the vines. For instance, the Butteaux vineyard produces a well known rounded style, while her sister, Vaillons, produces a slick, dancing wine that palpitates between acidity and roundness. In another premier cru appellation, the 2021 Fourchaume Vieilles Vignes, produced a soft and ample wine as the 65-year-old vines had access to peak sun in 2021 as well as a depth of access to the brown clay, southwest and western exposures for optimum ripeness, creating a fullness and softness that can please all consumer groups. Grapes photo courtesy of: unsplash.com. Photo by Manuel Venturini Terroir vs. Climate A look into the effects of climate change on the climats of Chablis By Loris Jones-Randolph, CMS
Bourgogne and its five wine-producing regions La Bourgogne et ses cinq régions viticoles Hautes Côtes de Nuits Tonnerrois Jovinien Auxerrois Vézelien Chablis Hautes Côtes de Beaune Bourgogne Côte Saint-Jacques Couchois Besançon Saulieu Le Creusot Paray-le-Monial Bourg-en-Bresse Lyon Nancy Dijon Montbard Dijon Tonnerre Dijon Lyon Avallon Clamecy Troyes Troyes Clamecy Paris Paris Tournus Vézelay Dijon Nuits-St-Georges Beaune Chalon-sur-Saône Mâcon Auxerre Chablis Dole Dijon Auxerre CÔTE DE NUITS CÔTE DE BEAUNE CÔTE CHALONNAISE MÂCONNAIS Paris Lyon Paris Châtillonsur-Seine A 6 A 6 Yonne Serein Armançon Ource Seine A 31 N 74 Canal de Bourgogne A 6 A 36 A 31 N 6 N 6 A 6 N 73 Canal du Centre N 80 N 6 N 79 Saône A 6 N 6 Saône D 971 D 965 D 980 CHABLIS & GRAND AUXERROIS Appellations Grands Crus Appellations Villages et Premiers Crus Appellations Régionales Chenôve Marsannay-la-Côte Couchey Fixin Gevrey-Chambertin Morey-St-Denis Chambolle-Musigny Vougeot Vosne-Romanée Gilly-lès-Cîteaux Flagey-Échezeaux Premeaux-Prissey Comblanchien Corgoloin Ladoix-Serrigny Pernand-Vergelesses Aloxe-Corton Savigny-lès-Beaune Pommard St-Romain Chorey-lès-Beaune VolnayMonthélie Meursault AuxeyDuresses St-Aubin PulignyMontrachet Chassagne-Montrachet Santenay Dezize-lès-Maranges Sampigny-lès-Maranges Cheilly-lès-Maranges Chagny Bouzeron Couches Rully Mercurey St-Martin sous-Montaigu Dracy-le-Fort Givry Buxy Montagny-lès-Buxy St-Vallerin Jullylès-Buxy St-Gengouxle-National Senneceyle-Grand Mancey Chardonnay Bray Cruzille Uchizy Montbellet St-Gengoux- Lugny de-Scissé Burgy Viré Azé Péronne Clessé Cluny Berzéle-Chatel Berzéla-Ville Verzé Igé Senozan Sologny Sennecé-lès-Mâcon Milly-Lamartine Pierreclos La RocheVineuse Bussières Prissé Vergisson Serrières Solutré-Pouilly Chasselas Leynes St-Vérand Fuissé Davayé Charnay Hurigny Loché Vinzelles Chaintré Chânes Joigny Ligny-le-Châtel Épineuil Tonnerre Villy Lignorelles Maligny La ChapelleVaupelteigne Fontenayprès-Chablis Fyé Collan Fleys Poinchy Beines Milly Béru Chichée Viviers Courgis Vaux Chitry Préhy St-Brisle-Vineux Poilly-sur-Serein Chemillysur-Serein Coulanges- Noyers-sur-Serein la-Vineuse Val-deMercy Irancy Cravant Vermenton Nitry Molesmes Laignes Charreysur-Seine Belansur-Ource Massingy Crêchessur Saône St-Amour Bellevue La Chapellede-Guinchay Romanèche-Thorins St-Symphorien-d'Ancelles Pouilly CHÂTILLONNAIS CÔTE DE NUITS CÔTE DE BEAUNE CÔTE CHALONNAISE MÂCONNAIS CHABLIS & GRAND AUXERROIS CHÂTILLONNAIS www.burgundy-wines.fr www.grandpavois.fr • RCS B 349125872 • Imprimé sur papier fabriqué à partir de fibres 100 % recyclées, désencrées avecunprocédésanschloreproduitselonunegestionresponsabledesforêtschezunimprimeurwww.grandpavois.fr • 2013 Edition • Printed with vegetable-based inks on paper produced from 60% recycled fibres from sustainably-managed forests, by an printer AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG 9 RESEARCH
10 AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG Collan Fleys Béru Viviers Poilly-sur-Serein Chemillysur-Serein Chichée Préhy Courgis Beines La-ChapelleVaupelteigne Lignorelles Villy Maligny Ligny-le-Châtel Fyé Milly Poinchy Fontenayprès-Chablis Chablis Montmains Vosgros Vaucoupin Les Fourneaux Mont de Milieu Les Beauregards Chaume de Talvat Côte de Jouan Côte de Léchet Beauroy Vaillons Fourchaume Vau de Vey Vau Ligneau Montée de Tonnerre Côte des Prés-Girots Côte de Cuissy Butteaux Vaux Ragons Troesmes Côte de Savant Forêts Les Lys Mélinots Roncières Beugnons Chatains Chatains Sécher Les Épinottes Vaugiraut Morein Vaulorent Côte de Fontenay Vaupulent L'Homme Mort Chapelot Pied d'Aloup Côte de Bréchain Berdiot Côte de Vaubarousse 0 2 km N S O E Ses 47 Climats Vignoble de Bougros Preuses Vaudésir Grenouilles Valmur Les Clos Blanchot Petit Chablis Chablis Chablis Premier Cru Chablis Grand Cru CLIMATE CHANGE AND CLIMATS As the climats depend on their own microclimates, climate change is one of the biggest factors in the variation in the wines. While producers notice that organic and biodynamic practices do create a more stable wine even in difficult vintages, the shift in temperature is inarguably the biggest change in the taste of Chablis. Though organic and biodynamic producers can work with their neighbors to create a safety belt for the vines, the increase of heat creates less of a need for spraying (chemical disease repellant). Audegond’s notes “The quality of fruit is increasing because we have better summers and they are drier. Without rot, there’s no need to spray.” The winemakers in Chablis often are practicing organic, but at $2,000 a hectare, attaining certification can be an expensive deterrent. Oliver Masmondet, winemaker from La Chablisienne, a cooperative founded in 1923 by vignerons’ wives after the men had gone off to war, remarks on how rapidly the change has come. “The effect of global warming has been physically here for the last 30- 40 years. When I started to work in Burgundy, we started harvest in October and now, first week in September. You can just look at the date of harvesting back to the 14th century. Positive, yes riper fruits, but the negative is how it effects production. It can be too hot or too wet.” In higher temperatures, vignerons can see their grapes ripen too soon and snap at the first sign of May frost. Sophie Woelz, Co-Owner of Domaine Croix de Montjoie in Vezelay, which has a higher altitude in the northwest, believes the combination of conscious winemaking and the climate have provides wines with a different feel. Her winery, an old restored castle farm looks out across the valley to the Basilica of Vezelay. A zephyr from the Le Parc de Mourvan cools workers and plants alike as the sun continues to blaze down with fever. The cool clay located in her vines help to protect them from the spiking temperatures, but she hopes a return to what once lived on the farm may be helpful as well. Biodiversity practices as a way to balance out the impact of human presence as well as that of climate change are well underway at Oliver photo courtesy of: burgundy-report.com and lachablisienne.com Sophie photo courtesy of:lacroixmontjoie.com Maps page 9 and 10 courtesy of: chablis-wines.com, www.burgundy-wines.fr, and Benoit France Oliver Masmondet Sophie Woelz & husband Matthieu
AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG 11 About the Author Loris Jones-Randolph is a Court of Masters Certified Sommelier living in Los Angeles, California. She has written for Somm Journal and VinoHead and publishes reviews on her own website, www.boozybushwick.com. Loris loves helping people fall in love with wine, and spends her spare time studying for the next round of exams and helping consumers find the right wine for them. the winery. “I hope that them just being here will be helpful to the grapes,” Wolez says of her small flock of sheep sleeping lazily under a far-off tree. In her vineyards, tilling is almost nonexistent. She points to the Parc du Mourvan, a national forest near by, crediting it’s cool winds help her wines stay fresh and cool. Born into making wine, Sofie believes the lack of biodiversity as farmers moved to becoming winemakers, is unfortunate, but the concentration on winemaking allows one to be more focused, more artisanal. She grew up in Beaujolais, and with her husband Matthieu, after working in wineries around the world, searched to find this plot in Vezelay, among the rare and hallowed vines of Bourgogne.“I think the vines are different from 30-40 years ago and really appreciate the heat. The last five years, the heat has given generosity to the vine, and allowed them to go deeper.” While the ability to ripen quickly is good, many are worried about the future. “I’m scared about what will happen in the next 20 years. I don’t know if we will be able to produce in the next 20 years. In agriculture in general, it’s a bit scary,” says Woelz. The winemaker looks out, past her grazing sheep and modest garden, onto the plains of wheat and rows of vines grown by her neighbors, and contemplates their collective future. She hopes adding trees and sheep will assist in the needed biodiversity, but will it be enough to offset climate change? For vignerons in Chablis, the climats are the perfect representation of the struggles of winemakers with climate change. A healthy, rich, biodiverse soil, perfect aspect, and a gentle hand can still only do so much without the assistance and impact from those around us who share in our immediate surroundings and the fruits of those surroundings. If temperatures continue to increase, as anticipated, will climats adapt? Will Chablis will be capable of being produced in the way we know it today? TRAVEL Vineyard photo courtesy of: unsplash.com Photo by: Dylan Valente Bottle shot photo courtesy of: chablisienne.com Author photo courtesy of: imdb.com
once knew a winemaker who faced an unusual challenge—his sworn adversaries were none other than a flock of turkeys. During one harvest, he embarked on crafting a Sauternes or late harvest-style Semillon, which required an extended hang time on the vines. As the harvest date drew near, the winemaker made frequent trips to the vineyard, savoring the intensely sweet nectar of the shriveling fruit. However, one early morning, he stumbled upon signs of 'fowl' play; not a single Semillon berry remained on his vines. Suddenly, the unmistakable gobble of turkeys reached his ears. Looking up, he spotted them parading along the upper vineyard block. Armed with a shotgun, the furious winemaker swiftly dealt with the turkeys. Upon examining their stomachs, he made a shocking discovery—the turkeys were filled to the brim with undigested Semillon berries. What a travesty! Semillon is perhaps the most overlooked grape variety in the world. While industry insiders are familiar with its name, it remains largely obscure to the average consumer. However, Semillon's history is far more illustrious than its current status suggests. In fact, this Bordeaux variety, celebrated for its role in crafting some of the world's greatest dessert wine, once reigned as the most popular white grape variety globally; it accounted for a staggering 90 percent of all plantings in South Africa at one time and had an extensive following in Chile where it dominated 75 percent of total vineyards in the 1950s. Since the Phylloxera plague of the mid-1800s, Semillon has seen a gradual (and sometimes rapid) decline worldwide. Despite its historical significance, the aftermath of Phylloxera forced many producers and growers to seek more commercially viable alternatives that produced consistency. With the European economy (both on the continent and the colonies) in turmoil, Semillon was gradually replaced by Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay, grapes that yielded more consistent wines for a market parched of good wine. Semillon A Diamond in the Rough or Coal for the Fire By Jack Costa I
AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG 13 Grapes photo courtesy of: wineenthusiast.com and Getty images Bottle shot and vineyard photos courtesy of: www.tyrrells.com.au SIPTALK As Jancis Robinson aptly notes, "Semillon is not a fashionable variety," a sentiment that seems ironic given its similarities to Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay. Semillon's hallmark viscosity and oily character make it a natural blending partner with Sauvignon Blanc, contributing a racing beam of acidity that complements the richer body. Semillon reigned in its homeland of Bordeaux until the 1960s before gradually being replaced by Sauvignon Blanc. Its precipitous decline worldwide has further been exacerbated by inexperienced winemakers who often produce lackluster wines. Even skilled winemakers find Semillon particularly challenging to master in the winery, especially when dealing with significant drops in acidity well before reaching the desired sugar ripeness. The wines are rich and ‘oily’ (a hallmark quality of Semillon) but lack a backbone of acidity which becomes problematic in the winery when attempting to make balanced wines. Despite its decline in popularity worldwide, the fact remains: Semillon remains a grape with immense potential for crafting incredible and ageworthy wines when handled correctly. On paper, Semillon is relatively easy to grow. The vine is vigorous and buds late - helping to avoid spring frost damage - and ripens early, ideal for evading damage and molding from autumn rain. However, the secret of making a great Semillon in the winery has only been mastered by a dedicated few. The French Connection - Bordeaux & Sauternes: While small holdings of Semillon can be found across the globe, two regions in the North and South Hemispheres have mastered this particularly challenging variety. In Bordeaux, Semillon shines as the leading grape for producing Sauternes. The thin skins of Semillon are highly susceptible to Botrytis, making this partnership of mold and grape ideal for crafting premium sweet dessert wines. One key to producing highquality Semillon in Sauternes is low yields. Some prestigious producers in Sauternes reported only producing the equivalent of one glass per vine. Unfortunately, in our modern world, which emphasizes higher production volume, Semillon's allure has increasingly waned. Even the dry table wines produced outside of Sauternes have become increasingly dominated by Sauvignon Blanc, where, until the 1950s, Semillon was the leading variety in SBS blends (Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon). So What's the Secret of Making Stellar Semillon? Wine titan and the 'Godfather of Semillon,' Bruce Tyrrell, has helped the Hunter Valley forge a reputation that rivals even the French (much to their chagrin, I’m sure). The region's unique climate, characterized by soon "flavor ripening" without excessive "sugar ripeness," has been a key to their success. Harvesting 6-8 weeks earlier than wineries down south, the Hunter Valley leverages natural high acidity to produce fresh and bone-dry wines, with an alcohol content no higher than 10-11 percent. Hunter Valley Semillons have remarkable aging potential, often reaching 40-50 years, becoming rounder, softer, and developing a delicious and highly prized toasted bread aroma that emerges even without oak aging. While Semillon has found minor notoriety in places like Washington State, Sonoma, Napa, and even South Africa, winemakers struggle to replicate the same level of success as Bordeaux and the Hunter Valley. Jancis Robinson noted in the Oxford Companion of Wine that Washington's L’Ecole is “one of the few wineries in the entire world to persist with a really well-made Semillon. Surely that grape’s time will come…. It has the body of Chardonnay and the aroma of Sauvignon Blanc – surely a recipe for success?" Semillon’s potential for producing great wines is undeniable. Yet attaining that quality has several barriers to success. There is still hope for Semillon's revival with emerging trends indicating that younger wine consumers have enthusiasm for unique, outlier wines that fall outside the popular 20 mainstream varieties. Perhaps the next generation of wine drinkers will help breathe new life into Semillon, revitalizing its popularity and instilling interest among winemakers to unlock the potential of this diamond in the rough. Fun Fact: While it's commonly believed that Semillon originated in Bordeaux's Saint Emilion (a name that sounds strikingly similar phonetically) other theories suggest its roots trace back to the island of Gironde. . Fun Fact: Both Bordeaux and the Hunter Valley share similar proximity to the ocean. Bordeaux lies roughly 30 miles from the Atlantic, while the Hunter Valley is situated 40 to 50 miles from the Pacific. The relative humidity in both regions might be key to preserving natural acidity while also flavor ripeness without the loss of acidity. About the Author Jack is a writer, producer and content creator. At the age of 17, the Oregon native began studying winemaking under Stephen Rustle. Jack’s work has been featured by several publications, including Wine Folly and the American Wine Society Wine Journal. He can be found on The Wine Heretics podcast and at wineheretics.com Tyrrell's Semillon vineyard
14 AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG t was a sunny day in downtown Sonoma in mid-June of 2023. Mike Wassenberg, Kevin Ringham, Doug Beakes, and I began our now annual outing to California wine country. Although our trip focused on Paso Robles, we started with a few days in Sonoma. The first of those days was spent with this year’s AWS Award of Merit winner and California wine icon, Joel Peterson. Joel treated us to a day of education on Sonoma wine history, a romp through Sonoma’s most historic vineyards, and a sampling of Sonoma’s best wines, past and current vintages. Joel’s passion for winemaking and his dedication to preservation of California’s wine history and the knowledge that surrounds it were on full display as we walked the vineyards and touched the grapevines that were often more than 100 years old. Joel shared a story of his earliest harvest when preparing to start up his Ravenswood winery in the 1970s. An early fall morning Joel arrived at the Bacigalupi Vineyards in the Russian River Valley of Sonoma. He expected to greet a pile of wooden lugs of Zinfandel ready to load into his truck and quickly haul away. Instead, the lugs of grapes were scattered throughout the vineyard where they were picked. Joel quickly realized his planned work had grown exponentially as he now had to move the lugs from throughout the vineyard to his vehicle. As he commenced work, the sky above began to darken as rain clouds began to move into the area. Rain of course would be an unwelcome mix with the freshly picked grapes. Joel continued his work as a flock of ravens began to circle above the vineyard. As Joel completed the work at the vineyard, the ravens continued to loom, seemingly fending off the imminent forces of nature. Joel finished loading the truck and was able to fully unload the harvest when the heavens opened and the rain began to pour down. With the excitement of a fresh harvest, the thoughts about the day’s work and what could have gone badly, and the image of the ravens overhead as he cleared grapes from the vineyard, Joel quickly came to the name Ravenswood for his new Sonoma winery. Joel came from a family of chemists, who adopted both culinary and wine appreciation skills into the fabric of his upbringing. As a result, Joel learned about the pleasures and complexities of food and wine at a rather early age, along with a healthy love of science. In the early 1970s, Joel began his winemaking journey with Joe Swan. While they made other varietals, it was there that Joel was introduced to Zinfandel. A Day in the Vineyard with Joel Peterson By Al Guber and Kevin Ringham Old Hill Vineyard, Bottle shot photo courtesy of: bustersliquors.com and Ravenswood
AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG 15 FEATURE Joel started Ravenswood in 1976 with a plan to focus on single-vineyard Old World style Zinfandel, with production goals of six or seven thousand cases per year. Ravenswood produced wines from Old Hill Ranch, Dickerson, Belloni, Barricia, Teldeschi vineyards that continue to drink very well today, even those from the earliest vintages. In 1983, faced with the pressures of cash flow, Ravenswood introduced Vintners Blend Zinfandel. In seven years, Vintners Blend would go on to more than 1 million cases of production and become the world’s bestselling red Zinfandel. The “No Wimpy Wines” era at Ravenswood was in full bloom through the 80s and 90s. In 2001, Ravenswood was purchased by Constellation. Along the way, Joel served as President of the Sonoma Valley Vintners and Winegrowers, helped found the Zinfandel Advocates and Producers (ZAP) and served two terms as President, and was inducted into the Vintners Hall of Fame. hooker house Returning to our day with Joel, we met him at the Hooker House in downtown Sonoma. The Hooker House was originally built in the 1800s by General “Fightin’ Joe” Hooker of Civil War fame, and located in what is now the Bedrock Vineyard. The house was later relocated to downtown Sonoma and is now the tasting room for Bedrock Vineyards winery owned by Joel’s son Morgan-Twain Peterson. As we sat with Joel, we tasted several unique wines with ties to Bedrock Winery and Joel’s current venture, Once and Future Wines. With each wine came a story of a vineyard relationship, the winemaker, and how they weave into the fabric of the Peterson family of winemaking. A contract for grapes often results in a lifelong relationship between families, and Joel shared stories of those with a passion throughout our tasting. The breadth and impact of both Joel and Morgan on Sonoma’s winemaking community is impressive and clearly spreads across Sonoma valley and the State of California. We left Hooker House and headed out to the nearby Bedrock Vineyard, where we got a ground level view of the impressive vineyard, many dating back to the 1880s. While wandering amongst the vines, Joel told us the history of the land, and his view on his stewardship, taking the long view that he’s proud to preserve it for future generations, a passion he shares with his son Morgan. Bedrock Vineyard was established in 1854 by Generals "With the excitement of a fresh harvest, the thoughts about the day’s work and what could have gone badly, and the image of the ravens overhead as he cleared grapes from the vineyard, Joel quickly came to the name Ravenswood for his new Sonoma winery." Joel Peterson
16 AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG William “Tecumseh” Sherman and General “Fightin’ Joe” Hooker, and replanted after phylloxera by Senator George Hurst in 1888. In 2005, The Peterson family purchased the 152 acre vineyard from the Domenici family. The vineyard is more than 70 percent Zinfandel and is mixed with many other varietals too numerous to name here. As we walked the grape rows with Joel, he would point out the fine differences between varietals based on leaf structure or growing patterns of the vines. The entire Bedrock vineyard has been mapped on a vine by vine basis, in some cases based on DNA identification of the vines by UC Davis. Joel takes great pride in the vineyard and his family is clearly committed to the preservation of the history and legacy of old vine vineyards throughout California. Following our tour of the vines, we sat for lunch in the vineyard and were treated to samplings of Ravenswood Zinfandels from the 90s and 80s – all still drinking extremely well. After lunch, we drove just a few mile down the road to the Old Hill Vineyard. A special thanks to Joel for introducing Will Bucklin, current co-owner and caretaker of the Old Hill vineyard, who showed us the old vines, the wide number of grape varieties that make up these “field blends,” and tastes of the resulting wines while regaling us with stories of rehabilitating the vineyard after it had suffered years of neglect. Like Bedrock, the Old Hill vineyard also dates back to the 1850s. There is a 1956 reference to a grape called Black St. Peter (later to be known as Zinfandel) growing on the property. The vineyard contains more than 30 varietals like Zinfandel, Grenache, Alicante Bouschet, Petite Sirah, Syrah and Mataro, along with far more uncommon additions like Persan, Mollard, Etraire de la Dui and even grapes that have no matching genetic fingerprint. In the vineyard, we admired one old vine that remains unidentifiable by DNA testing at UC Davis or other means to date. Mike, Kevin, Doug and I were truly blessed to be able to spend a day in the vineyards with Joel Peterson. The stories of California wine history, vineyard relationships, and the ups-downs and dedication needed to build a winery and create world-class wines will not be forgotten. Joel is truly one of the great leaders in California wine and I wish him sincere congratulations as a most deserving recipient of the AWS Award of Merit. Hooker house, from left: Kevin ringham, joel peterson, al guber ,and mike wassenberg bucklin and once & future old hill zinfandels Bedrock vineyard old vine Bedrock vineyard old vine
AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG 17 The Upper Mississippi River Valley AVA is in the heart of America, even though its grapes and practices may seem a bit foreign to warmer-weather winegrowers. COVERSTORY Winemaking in the DriftlessBy Roger Morris or most American wine lovers – and for most American winemakers, for that matter – taking a journey into the coldweather winemaking regions of the Upper Midwest might seem as alien as an exploration into the frigid, mountainous countries of the former Soviet Union, countries whose exotic labels are now finding their way in volume into the U.S. market. Even those winemakers on the East Coast who have French-American hybrids blended into their vineyards along with their classic vinifera grapes might find the names of vines being grown throughout the Upper Mississippi River Valley a little foreign – Brianna, La Crescent, Petit Pearl, St. Pepin, Frontenac Gris, Marquette, Itasca, Prairie Star and Clarion. Then there is the sight of vines with their heads buried in the terroir to fight the minus-zero winter temperatures or have their winter roots protected by layers of straw, mats of grasses grown in the vine rows or, better yet, a foot or so of snow for insulation. Yet, the wine industry along the Upper Mississippi seems to be thriving, admittedly bolstered with wines made from fruit juices other than grapes, such as berries or apples, as well as grapes grown in warmer climes and transported there to be fermented. This region, officially the Upper Mississippi River Valley AVA (UMRV), was founded in 2009 and covers parts of four states – a small portion of northwest Illinois, most of eastern Iowa, southeast Minnesota and southwest Wisconsin. It stretches along the both sides of the famous river and some of its tributaries for about 500 miles, covering 30,000 square miles of territory. As there is no central administration for the AVA, there is no precise record of the number of wineries and the number of acres of vines contained within its vast borders. But at the time of its founding, there were around 32 producers and about 500 acres of grapes. Geographically and geologically, the AVA roughly covers a region along the Mississippi River known as “The Driftless.” While we generally think of the Upper Midwest as a region made flat by receding glaciers, leaving
18 AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG behind a lake-dotted landscape as well as glacial soil deposits known as “drift.” But The UMRV AVA was never covered by glaciers during the last ice age (from about 115,000 to 11,700 years ago). Instead, it remains a wooded, hilly region that has a different types of soil and no glacial deposits or drift. Hence the name, The Driftless, an area which reminds some people of New England geologically. It is a fascinating place with fascinating winemaking and fascinating wine and grape producers. Embracing What You’ve Got “I’m not naive enough to believe we’ll ever be Napa Valley,” says Nan Bailly, owner and winemaker at Alexis Bailly Vineyard, whose motto is: Where the grapes can suffer. “But, nevertheless, we are a destination winery, and I believe in embracing what you have in your backyard.” Bailly’s backyard is 13 acres of vineyards on the west bank of the Mississippi just south of the Minneapolis metro area. And she’s no flash in the pan with high hopes of what might be; Her father, pioneer winegrower Robert Bailly, founded the winery 50 years ago in 1973 at a time when viticulture was not believed possible in the state. He changed that in 1978 by producing the first wine made in Minnesota using only grapes grown in the state. “Our grapes are primarily Marechal Foch and Leon Millot, both French hybrids, and Frontenac, a University of Minnesota hybrid,” Bailly says, noting that while she likes the juice for wine, “Millot’s clusters are tighter and more prone to bunch rot.” Even though global warming should be a positive thing for grape growers in the country’s far north, climate change has “made the problem of weather events being bigger and longer,” Bailly says. “More rain comes all at once, and the droughts are lasting longer.” Minnesota has a short growing season, she says, with bud break usually around the first week of May, with harvest generally beginning the second week of September. While frost seems to be a universal concern of vineyardists around the world, Bailly says hail is rare. “In our 50 years of grape growing, we had our first hail only two years ago.” Winter is another matter. “We cover our vineyards in the winter with straw, and then, hopefully snow,” she says, and here global warming seems to be helping out. “Three out of five years, the vines could get through on their own, and recently about four of five winters are milder. But we can’t take that chance, so we have multiple trunks per plant.” Somehow it all works out, “We make about 10,000 gallons in an average year,” she says, and Bailly’s wines have been awarded quite a few prizes in along the way. “We cover our vineyards in the winter with straw, and then, hopefully snow and here global warming seems to be helping out. Three out of five years, the vines could get through on their own, and recently about four of five winters are milder. " Bottle shot photo courtesy of: nekacreative.com and Alexis Bailly Vineyards Vineyard photo courtesy of: kowalskis.com and Alexis Bailly Vineyards Nan Bailly Alexis Bailly Vineyards Alexis Bailly Vineyards
AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG 19 New Grape Hybrids in the Making As winegrower Bailly notes, one of her primary grapes planted is Frontenac, a variety that the University of Minnesota first released in 1996. On its website, the university says, “The introduction of Frontenac marked the start of a major movement in states like Iowa, Wisconsin, and Minnesota as the acreage of cold hardy grapes and public interest in cold hardy wines rapidly grew.” Until he switched jobs this summer, Matthew Clark was in charge of the university’s grape breeding program, as researchers there keep developing new hybrid varieties with improved characteristics for both growing and winemaking. The latest find, which is just being released, is Clarion, a white grape whose parents were a grape that was never awarded a name, VB86-4 (a cross between Seyval Blanc and Pinot Noir) and Frontenac (a cross of Riparia 89 and Landot 4511). Most of the new grapes are like that – hybrids of hybrids with some having international origins. Riparia, incidentally, is indigenous to the Midwest, and Native Americans used the grapes for eating fresh or dried as “pemmican,” but apparently did not ferment them. “Clarion’s attributes,” Clark says, “are that it’s only medium in vigor, and the vines aren’t too big—less work in the vineyard—and it has good shoot positions. They stay where they should be. It has really nice wine characteristics. It was first discovered in the 1990s, but was overlooked for a few years because it wasn’t too cold-hardy for the region. “But researchers at Ames (Iowa State University) and elsewhere really like it,” Clark continues, “as it works really well in Zone 5 (average annual minimum winter temperature of -20 to -10 degrees F). So we decided to develop it.” Developing a new grape variety and making it commercially available is a staged process, much like the development of new medicines, and Clark says the process takes 15 to 25 years, going through multiple steps – choosing the parents, evaluating first fruit three years later, giving it a development number if it looks promising, cloning it while holding on to the original, making enough vines in years 10-12 to make wines for tasting panels, observing it more selectively for three or four additional years, sending it to nurseries to grow commercial quantities, and somewhere along the way making sure that it’s properly patented. “We are currently evaluating 30 to 60 candidates with a goal of choosing 50 top performers,” he says, then pauses. “Perhaps I’ve been overly zealous.” Clark's Method to Making a New Grape Variety & Making it Commercially Available 1. Choose Parents 2. Evaluate first fruit 3 years later 3. Clone it, keeping the original 3.5 Make enough vines in years 10-12 for tasting panels 4. Observe it selectively for 3-4 more years 5. Send to nurseries to grow commercial quantities 6. Make sure it's properly patented along the way Matthew Clark photos courtesy of: mnhardy.umn.edu/grapes Matthew Clark
20 AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG Mom Always Knows Best Eric White and his sister Britt were probably destined to become the third generation of their family to become winegrowers in the UMRV AVA. After all, when he was a boy his mother named a wine after him – “Eric the Red” – in the early days of Galina Cellars, located in northwest Illinois, where she still helps make wine. Not that he was forced to join the family business, whose members had previous made wine in Iowa and Wisconsin. After the cold winters, going to wine school at Cal Poly at San Luis Obispo seemed to White like a good idea. “But when my parents dropped me off at college, my mother said, ‘Good luck, because we don’t have a job for you to come back to when you graduate. I don’t want you to learn my bad habits.’” And so, he worked in Napa Valley at Heitz Cellars and other venues before joining the family business. “My mother was instrumental in forming the AVA,” White says, and she also has been named Illinois Winemaker of the Year. But the next generation always has new ideas. White’s emphasis has been on development and marketing. “We’ve made a big push into hospitality,” he says, “with a bar, a restaurant and a new tasting room location. We started a wine club in 2018, which now has 2,500 members – so that’s 2,500 cases a year already sold. My biggest challenge, though, is selling dry wine in an area that has always drunk sweet.” Galina has five acres of grapes, White says, “but that only makes 5 percent of our total production. We buy fruit from all over, including juice for fruit wines. I’ve already purchased 40,000 pounds so grapes from Iowa this year. Of course, if my fruit is from here in Illinois, I put ‘Upper Mississippi River Valley’ on the label.” Otherwise, his mother the winemaker might send him back to Califorrnia. Hawkeyes to the Rescue When mom started making wine, it was hard to find grapes,” White says. “Now there are a lot of people growing grapes who reach out to us. It’s a good problem to have.” Part of Galina’s solution is Robert Matus, an Iowa grower who also makes wine, “but only 8-10 gallons for our own use.” Matus owns a family farm in Springfield, Iowa, east of Cedar Rapids, a 90-minute drive to Galena, crossing the Mississippi at Dubuque when he is delivering a load of grapes in early September. “My wife and I both have backgrounds as farmers, and we both like wine,” he says of their interest. After doing due diligence with other grape growers and wineries in the area, they decided to plant vines in addition to their traditional crops of corn and soybeans. The Matuses harvested their first crop in 2013. “We only grow hybrids from the University of Minnesota – Marquette, La Crescent, Itasca and Frontenac,” he says. “Coming out of the university, they are cold-hardy vines, and the only protection I do is let the grasses grow, which helps. And we also hope for snow to insulate them.” He does high-wire trellising to help protect from frost, but the 2020 hail storms that came through the region wiped out 80% of his crop that year. “Fungicide spraying protects against mildew,” Matus continues, “and we net against birds, although we are trialling with ‘Avian’ brand bird repellant.” The number of wineries all across Iowa, not just within the UMRV AVA, have declined in recent years, he says, but planting slow-to-produce vineyards is still popular in a region where farms often switch crops annually – corn and beans – according to what they think the market will offer. “There are about 250 vineyards in Iowa, Matus says, and that number seems to have held up, with about 1,300 acres in vines.” Then he adds, “We’re lucky. We only have one customer – Galena Cellars. Eric’s mom visited in 2017 and decided to take the whole crop. They have ever since.” Grower Robert Matus (left) and winemaker Eric White Matus Grapes
AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG 21 No Drifting in the Driftless “The Driftless is very hilly,’ says Todd Kuehl. “You would be hard-pressed to find flat land around here to start a vineyard. Everything’s on a slope. Remember that early European settlers from Switzerland came here because it reminded them of home.” Unlike the Baillys, the Whites and the Matuses, Todd and Janet Kuehl did not come from farming families and did not grow up in The Driftless. “I was 48 at the time, the kids were in college, and we wanted a new chapter in our life,” Kuehl says. “We visited wineries in the U.S. and Europe and thought it would be a great way of life. So I said, ‘Why not us?’” And so they planted 1,500 vines in 2015, another 1,500 the following year and opened their doors to the public in 2018 at their new facility in New Glarus, Wisconsin, a few miles southwest of Madison. They named it Bailey’s Run after their golden-doodle, Bailey. As a former businessman, Kuehl, not surprisingly, called in professional help to establish and grow Bailey’s Run. “I’ve partnered with Piero Spada, a consultant who specializes in cold climate winegrowing throughout the area,” he says. “He’s my mentor. We have good infrastructure here with quite a few resources, especially the University of Minnesota. But we get our bare-roots vines from out East.” Already, Bailey’s Run produces 100,000 bottles of wine from grapes and other fruits, “95 percent of it sold at the winery.” But Kuehl has expansion plants. “Next year, we’re going to also be selling our wines at 50 retail outlets.” And that’s not all. “We’ve just added a craft distillery and plan to start making brandy.” And so it seems that the winegrowers in the Upper Mississippi River Valley AVA are not just aimlessly drifting in The Driftless – there is plenty of initiative and ambition. As Nan Bailley says, it may not be Napa Valley, but good wine is being made here, lots of it, and wine lovers are finding their way to the tasting rooms. In addition to the Journal, Roger Morris writes about wine, food and travel for numerous publications including World of Fine Wine,Wine Enthusiast, Drinks Business and Beverage Media. During the first two decades of this century, the Delaware-based Morris has made more than 100 reporting trips to wine regions on five continents. About the Author “The Driftless is very hilly, you would be hard-pressed to find flat land around here to start a vineyard. Everything’s on a slope. Remember that early European settlers from Switzerland came here because it reminded them of home... "As Nan Bailley says, it may not be Napa Valley, but good wine is being made here, lots of it, and wine lovers are finding their way to the tasting rooms." Matus Vineyards Todd and Janet Kuehl and Bailey
22 AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG Cool Climate Grape Growing Tips and Tricks By Jessica Zimmer From Canada to Colorado, researchers are considering new cultivars and technologies Geothermal plastic fabrics and temperature monitors Amateur growers should also consider geotextiles, polyester felt coverings that can maintain warmer temperatures during cold periods. These textiles do not create the same “greenhouse effect” as plastic tenting. Geotextiles aid growers who cultivate tender varieties across the northern U.S.. They are utilized as far north as the upper reaches of British Columbia, Nova Scotia, Ontario, and Quebec. The logistics and cost of using geotextiles are complicated for large growers due to installation and removal. As temperatures warm, a grower should loosen the fabric. If they see frost, they should cover the vines back up. They should permanently uncover vines when they get close to bud break. A “false spring” is a brief period of warmth followed by a severe temperature drop. Growers in areas that experience this phenomenon may consider spraying vines with a plant growth regulator like abscisic acid (ABA). The compounds briefly keep vines in a dormant state. The use of plant growth regulators is based on the latest research at Brock University. Hopefully the sprays will be available in the near future. Knowing the land and the use of rootstocks is important. “Some rootstocks do better in dry years. Others do better in wet. If your weather varies, look for a “Goldilocks” variety that tolerates both,” said Willwerth. rowers can do a great deal to help wine grape vines thrive in cool climates, even cold-hardy hybrids. Keeping vines in good health involves constantly monitoring all parts of the plant for distress, like desiccation. It also involves employing protective measures like geotextiles before temperatures drop. As climate change causes weather to be more erratic, one of the main thrusts of viticulture is to help growers deal with unpredictability. A cool climate is defined as one in which winter temperatures drop below -20 and -30° Celsius when vines are dormant. “The extreme of the cold determines what you’ll grow and where you’ll plant it. Yet even up here in the Niagara region, we’re just south of Lake Ontario. That’s a large body of water that doesn’t freeze,” said Dr. Jim Willwerth, assistant professor of biological sciences at Brock University in Ontario. Willwerth is also a researcher at Brock’s Cool Climate Oenology and Viticulture Institute (CCOVI). He said mitigating harsh mid-winter temperatures involves avoiding planting in the lowest spots in the vineyard. Growers should especially avoid spots with poor air flow and little water drainage. Since 2010, Brock University has been testing grapevine cold hardiness and the use of wind machines. The machines pull down warm air from high above the ground. This action raises air temperatures around wine grapes. Wind machines cannot operate during windy conditions. Wind machines are not the same as wind turbines, which generate electricity from wind power. Although wind machines require large diesel engines and are expensive to run, they save professional growers millions by avoiding losses. Amateur growers should consider less expensive measures, including covering the graft of the vine with soil. This technique, called “hilling up,” can be accomplished with a small plow on a tractor. Growers can entirely bury the vine if it is low to the ground. Then snow will cover the top of the vine. “You have to watch for rains washing the snow and soil off later. You want to protect the bud. That’s the most tender part,” said Willwerth.
AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG 23 WINEGROWING About the Author Jessica Zimmer is a news reporter, attorney and educator based in northern California. She has worked in journalism for over 20 years. She covers a wide variety of industries including alcoholic beverage production, transportation, law, and the arts. Guarding vines in dry desert lands Dr. Horst Caspari engages in viticulture primarily at the Western Colorado Research Center of Colorado State University. The WCRC’s vineyards are in Grand Junction, a sunny, cold, and semi-arid area west of the Rocky Mountains. The Colorado wine industry is primarily focused on vinifera. It involves growing many grafted vines. “It just takes one cold night to take out everything and leave you with nothing but rootstock. You can fight this by “hilling up” and using coarse wood chip mulch to protect vines from dryness,” said Caspari. Western states can expect their first freezes in mid- to late-October. “We don’t see many false springs. But you can’t leave grapes to hang on the vine. You should pick on time and then protect the vines. Otherwise you’ll lose both the grapes and the vines,” said Caspari. Growers should reduce irrigation in August and September. “Before the vines start dropping leaves in late October, heavily rewet the soil. It’s important to irrigate your plants going into winter. That way, they do not become desiccated. Then hope for rain and snow during the dormant season,” said Caspari. Amateur growers who want to plant vines around their home should avoid growing vines near the lawn. The vines will take in the water meant for the lawn and overgrow. Growers should build a high cordon trellis. This is a system composed of two wooden posts with wires running between them. The top wire should be strung between 4 and 6 feet above the ground. “Cultivars with downward growth habits should be grown on a high cordon. Don't fight nature! Many cultivars with semi-upright growth habits can be grown on high cordon. However, some cultivars have a strong upright growth habit. They are not suitable for high cordon training,” said Caspari. The high cordon trellis helps protect vines with a temperature gradient. On a cold, calm winter night, there is as much as a 5° difference between the low cordon and the high cordon. The higher temperature is at the high cordon. “Cold temperature injury to buds is less likely to occur with high cordon training than with low cordon training,” said Caspari. Double-pruning lessens frost damage During winter, Caspari has found that the best technique to avoid losses is double pruning. This involves making two pruning passes in a vineyard. First, growers should prune vines, leaving eight to 10 buds per spurs. Spurs are the retained portion of a cane. A spur usually contains one to three buds. The grower should make these spurs long. In late winter, the grower should prune to two-bud spurs. Eventually, they will have to take the first long spur off. “These techniques also work in dry zones in eastern Washington and New Mexico. The idea is to remove canes that will not be needed for fruit. This helps the vines concentrate on the remaining buds,” said Caspari. When temperatures begin to warm, growers should quickly remove the mulch covering the roots. “If you don’t, you’ll wind up with a massive amount of roots. Having to cut off roots wastes time,” said Caspari. Caspari’s other favorite tip for the spring is to watch fruit trees, specifically, peaches. Peaches usually flower two to three weeks before grapes experience bud break. “A grower can use this period, usually between the first week and the last week of April, to finish pruning. This will help vines grow in a healthy, sustainable way right from the start,” said Caspari. vines covered with geotextiles dr.jim willwerth
WINE WITCH ON FIRE NEW WINE CELEBRATES VIRGINIA AGRICULTURE Natalie MacLean, a bestselling wine writer, is shocked when her husband of twenty years, a high-powered CEO, demands a divorce. Then an online mob of rivals comes for her career. Wavering between despair and determination, she must fight for her son, rebuild her career, and salvage her self-worth using her superpowers: heart, humour, and an uncanny ability to pair wine and food. Natalie questions her insider role in the slick marketing that encourages women to drink too much while she battles the wine world’s veiled misogyny. Facing the worst vintage of her life, she reconnects with the vineyards that once brought her joy, the friends who sustain her, and her own belief in second chances. This true coming-of-middle-age story is about transforming your life and finding love along the way. “This decade’s Eat Pray Love … Natalie MacLean survived an online mob, divorce and drinking too much. Her new memoir will help you get through your own mess, too.” — The Coast Magazine “The book is funny, edgy, and a page turner. Zesty, vibrant, meditative, structured, intense ... anyone at a crux will be buoyed by this writer’s grit and grace.” — Frances Mayes, #1 New York Times bestselling author of Under the Tuscan Sun. Available at amazon.com. Cana Vineyards and Winery of Middleburg has released the second edition of Cornus Virginicus. This special wine project is produced in collaboration with the First Lady of Virginia, Suzanne S. Youngkin. Each edition of the project celebrates Virginia's flourishing agriculture— especially its farmers, growers and winemakers. As part of the initiative, a donation will be made to Virginia Agriculture in the Classroom. This bottle is available just before the 35th year of Virginia Wine Month takes place this October. Marking the start of the month-long toast to Virginia's rich wine industry, in which over 300 wineries and 5,000 acres of grapes span the state. The industry contributes $1.73 billion to the local economy and provides over 10,000 jobs. "With this second edition of Cornus Virginicus, we toast Virginia's standout wine, winemakers and agriculture," said First Lady of Virginia Suzanne S. Youngkin. "I could not be prouder to partner with the Virginia Wine Board, our Secretary of Agriculture and a female winemaker on a project that showcases award-winning wine while using proceeds to support a nonprofit dedicated to educating the next generation on the importance of Virginia's agriculture.” For more information visit canavineyards.com By Jim Rink New Noteworthy 24 AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG & Photo courtesy of: virginiawine.org/pages/cv Photo courtesy of: amazon.com
25 Latest findings from IWSR Drinks Market Analysis, the leading global beverage alcohol data and insights specialist, show that although stated alcohol spend is falling in many markets, consumer confidence about finances and the future is trending more positive than in 2022. This is especially true of Europe, where consumers show signs of improved sentiment following lows in late 2022. “To allay the impact of the cost-of-living crisis, beverage alcohol consumers are becoming more selective in how and when they spend on alcohol,” comments Richard Halstead, COO Consumer Insights, IWSR Drinks Market Analysis. “After the pandemic, athome drinking is still preferred, but there is a strong motivation to go out, just with less frequency and more mindfulness in alcohol consumption and spending,” he adds. Key findings from wave two of IWSR’s consumer barometer price sensitivity tracking(based on consumer surveys conducted in February 2023) across 17 key markets of Australia, Brazil, Canada, China, France, Germany, India, Italy, Japan, Mexico, Netherlands, Poland, South Africa, Spain, Taiwan, the UK, and the US, show: Alcohol’s share of wallet is declining. Consumers are cutting back on their alcohol expenditure as their spend on necessities like meat, fish, poultry, and cleaning products increases. This trend is most pronounced in the UK, where inflation has been rising at doubledigit rates, but is also notable in Germany and Australia. In these countries, as well as in France and Canada, where there are also moderation or financial pressures, deciding not to buy alcohol was found to be the second most popular strategy for saving money. Driven by increasing consumer demand, no- and low-alcohol beer/cider, wine, spirits, and ready-to-drink (RTD) products grew by more than +7% in volume across 10 key global markets in 2022, according to a comprehensive new study published by IWSR Drinks Market Analysis, the global leader in alcohol data and analysis. The pace of growth of the no/low-alcohol category is expected to surpass that of the last 4 years, with forecast volume CAGR of +7%, 2022-26, compared to +5%, 2018-22. No-alcohol will spearhead this growth, expected to account for over 90 percent of the forecast total category volume growth. Among the 10 focus markets examined in the December 2022 release of the IWSR No- and Low-Alcohol Strategic Study (Australia, Brazil, Canada, France, Germany, Japan, South Africa, Spain, the United Kingdom, and the United States), the market value of no/low alcohol products in 2022 surpassed $11billion, up from $8 billion in 2018. “The dynamic no/lowalcohol category presents opportunities for incremental sales growth as consumers are recruited from drinks categories such as soft drinks and water. Brand owners have an opportunity to recruit non-drinkers of alcohol,” comments Susie Goldspink, Head of No-and Low-Alcohol, IWSR Drinks Market Analysis. “As more people opt to avoid alcohol on certain occasions – or abstain from it altogether – no-alcohol is steadily increasing its share of the no/low category.” AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG INDUSTRYNEWS CONSUMERS SPENDING LESS ON BOOZE NO-AND LOW-ALCOHOL GROWTH
26 AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG Winemaking Instructional Videos www.winemakinginstructions.com From Musto Wine Grape Company Taught by Frank Renaldi Get Intimate Insights Into The Wine World Of BORDEAUX RHÔNE AUSTRIA BURGUNDY / CHAMPAGNE GERMANY ALSACE - drink ultra premium wines - dine at Michelin level, local taverns - meet the owners/winemakers - share exquisite wine pairing meals with them right at the estate - roam through vineyards and cellars - immerse yourself in French, German, Austrian culture. www.ombiasypr.com [email protected]
AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG 27 Advertise in the AWS Wine Journal Today! Contact us today to place your ad in the Wine Journal When you advertise in the Wine Journal, you align your brand with the oldest and largest consumer based wine appreciation organization in North America. Our articles are fresh, creative, and educational. We continually work with our writers to deliver articles that educate our readers and keep them engaged in the wine industry. Issues include articles on... • People, places, events, and trends in the wine industry • The art and science of winemaking for amateurs and professionals • Fascinating facts and information about wine and wine tasting • Travel stories from romantic wineries to exotic locals • Food, recipes, and complimentary wine pairings to please any palate Colleen Reardon 888-297-9070 [email protected] ADVERTISE WITH US! Who Reads the Journal? The Wine Journal reaches a targeted market of sophisticated and knowledgeable wine consumers. Ad Reservation & Remittance American Wine Society Attn: Colleen Reardon PO Box 889 Scranton, PA 18501 888-AWS-9070 [email protected] Ad Submission & Technical Questions Blue Flower Graphic Design Briana Fedorko 570-852-0744 [email protected] The American Wine Society Wine Journal is the official journal of the American Wine Society, a non-profit educational organization dedicated to the education of its members and the general public on all aspects of wine. The Wine Journal is a quarterly publication and is sent to all AWS members, either electronically or in print. 35% 60% make wine buy at least ten cases of wine yearly 98% of members drink wine every week 60% travel to wine regions at least once per year @blueflowergd • Brochures • Business Cards • Flyer’s • Invitations • Websites • Logo Design • Brand Development • Banners • Yard Signs • Stickers • Decals Briana Fedorko Owner/Graphic Designer 570-852-0744 [email protected] blueflowergd.com are you enjoying the journal? Let us know! Leave us a 5-star review on our Facebook! Looking for some help with your next creative project? We’ve got you covered! No job is too small! Contact us today! 20% off new designs PLUS extra 15% off for AWS members
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