AWS Wine Journal Spring 2019

pS itTake: Spring 2019
Breaking a Tie
Cooking With
PAUL
WAGNER beaujolais

earns 2018 MozartDo Not Kill the
...and other thoughts
PAI SAwardofMerit about vintage

An Almost Forgotten Great
Grape Is Making
A Comeback Cool Climate
Heirloom Grape
Photo courtesy of Bouchon Winery.
Varieties



CONTENTS

WINEMAKING SIPTALK

7 To Cellar Or Not To Cellar 21 Don’t Kill the Mozart 10
Kristine Austin explains the do’s Does Vintage Matter Anymore?
and dont’s of cellaring. Eric Miller discusses the Rhone 12
18
Valley wine region in the south 21
24
FOOD&WINE of France.
3
10 Cooking with Beaujolais 24 Feature: País

Beaujolais is a versatile table An almost-forgotten grape–
wine that matches well with the one whose vines Spanish
many foods, including pork, missionaries brought with
beef, seafood, grilled veggies, them to the newly conquered
and desserts. countries of the New World in
the 16th through18thcenturies
–is making a comeback.

RESEARCH 28 Meet Paul Wagner
12 Heirloom Grapes
Paul Wagner is granted the
Stephen Casscles discusses AWS’s highest honor, the
over a dozen great cool climate Award of Merit.
heirloom grape varieties to
consider growing. 29 Spit Take

How wine judges determine
which wine deserves the gold.

TRAVEL 30 New or Noteworthy

18 Macedonia From Yeti Wine Tumblers to
Orange Wine, get the scoop
From Mother Teresa to Black on the latest wine news.
Stallion, Macedonia has a rich
history. Dave Barber takes us
through his trip through the
breathtaking country.

AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG

EDITOR’SLETTER VOLUME 50 NO.1 SPRING 2019
Published by
JIM RINK
The American Wine Society
“Novinophobia — a fear of running out of wine or having no wine.” a non-profit corporation,

In this issue of the Journal there will be no danger of running out of wine, PO Box 889, Scranton, PA 18501
as we first travel to Macedonia, courtesy of Dave Barber, who made the trip
himself and reports on the wines of this ancient empire. Single copies $5.00
Our very own sommelier Ellen Landis, CS, CSW, takes us “backstage” to a
wine judging event in her article, “Spit Take,” which examines the intricacies Copyright© 2019 by AWS,Inc.
of breaking a tie. What will it be? Gold or Silver? And Roger Morris Reproduction or use of the editorial
accomplishes his “mission” with his article on País, a grape that was old but or pictorial content without written
now is new again, that Spanish missionaries brought with them to the newly
conquered countries of the New World in the 16th through 18th centuries. permission is prohibited.
Kristine Austin has some advice for wine drinkers in her article titled,
“To Cellar or not to Cellar.” Here’s one tip: If you don’t have a cellar, don’t Library of Congress Class Number:
throw away your cardboard boxes or styrofoam. TP544 A46A3 LC Card 76-647900
Stephen Casscles gives us the inside story on cool-climate heirloom grape
varieties, and Kevin Harmon shares some special recipes as he teaches us Publisher
how to cook with Beaujolais, a versatile wine that matches well with many
foods, including pork, beef, seafood, grilled veggies, and desserts. David Falchek
Eric Miller recently traveled to the Rhone River valley to answer the
question, “Does vintage matter anymore?” I’ll let you read the article to find Editor
out, but just remember: “You must not kill the Mozart.”
Last, but most certainly not least, the Journal congratulates Paul Wagner, Jim Rink
founder of Balzac Communications, wine industry icon, and longtime AWS
supporter, for his well-deserved 2018 Award of Merit. Contributing Writers
P.S. You may notice that the Journal has an exciting new look and feel. Please
welcome Briana Fedorko of Blue Flower Graphic Design to our team! Dave Barber, Ellen Landis,CS,CSW,
Roger Morris,Kristine Austin,
Stay thirsty,
Stephen Casscles, Kevin Harmon,
Eric Miller, Jim Rink

Editorial Office

Jim Rink
2800 S. Lake Leelanau Drive

Lake Leelanau, MI 49653
[email protected]

Unsolicited manuscripts or other
information will not be returned unless

accompanied by return postage.

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blueflowergd.com

4 AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG

ABOUTAWS Founder
Konstantin Frank
The AWS is the largest consumer based wine education organization in the U.S. A AWS National Officers and Board of Directors
non-profit group, the AWS is devoted to educating people on all aspects of wine. Its
members include wine novices, experts, grape growers, amateur and professional President Vice President Secretary
wine-makers, chefs, wine appreciators, wine educators, restaurateurs, and anyone Joseph Broski Joann Degaglia Leanne Wheeler
wanting to learn more about wine.
Treasurer Director of Director of
AWS ACTIVITIES Thomas Wallman Educational Services Competitions
Chapters: Local community groups of AWS members sponsor programs, usually Joe Dautlick
monthly. Activities include: tastings, dinners, lectures, picnics, winery tours, wine- Director of Aaron Mandel Member Services
making and cooking demonstrations, viticulture conferences, amateur wine-judging Member Executive
events, and other wine-related social events. Guests are welcome and novices have Services Director Manager
nothing to fear. Chapters are self-supporting, so expect a nominal charge to attend Jay Bileti Katherine Kearney
a tasting, dinner, etc. If a local chapter does not exist in your area, the national office David Falchek
will be glad to assist in forming a chapter. All that is needed are a few interested wine
lovers. Meeting can be informal and held in member homes or in other settings, 1967-1970 Past Presidents 1973-1974
such as restaurants and wineries. Albert W. Carol W. Damoth
Regional Events: Organized by regional vice-presidents, include statewide wine Laubengayer 1971-1972
judging, contests, special tastings, regional wine conferences, regional picnics and 1975-1976 Robert A. Dickmann 1979-1980
dinners. Jerry S. Miller Joseph P. Nardone
1981-1982 1977-1978
National Conference: Held each fall—a two and one-half day national conference John M. Hasson Kathryn Froelich 1985-1986
and extravaganza of wine. Attendees become part of a tradition that has drawn wine- 1987-1988 Lewis H. France, Jr.
lovers, wine-makers and gastronomes together every November for over 45 years. Thomas C. Iezzi, Jr. 1983-1984
Prominent American and international speakers conduct seminars and lectures Michael A. Farren 1991
on all aspects of wine appreciation, wine production, grape growing and cuisine. 1992 Stephen R. Kampers
Members experience fine food at connoisseur luncheons and dinners, tastings of J. Randy Hurteau 1989-1990
hundreds of wines and royal treatment by the finest American hotels and resorts. Kennet1h9P9.5Brewer Alton A. Long 1994
The annual conference brings professionals, serious amateurs and novices together George E. Wilson
to discover what is new in wine. 1998 1993
Gary C. Pavlis Alcide L.Porrell 1997
Eugene J. Spaziani
2001 1996
Pamela J. Davey Raymond A. Hartung, 2000
Charles E. Hastings
2004 Jr.
Willis L. Parker 1999 2003
Gayle M. Darugh Frank C. Aquilino
2007 2002
Albert L. Guber, Jr. William H. Eisberg 2006
2005 Janice Cobett
2012-2014 Tom Castronovo
Jane M. Duralia 2008-2009 2010-2011
Raymond A. Hartung, Willis L. Parker

Jr. 2017-2018
2015-2016 Kristin Kraft
Frank C. Aquilino

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4 AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG

WINEMAKING

T Cellar Or
not t cellar

by kristine austin

When I visit tasting rooms, I tend to hear this question asked to the tasting room employees and each one gives a

pleasant response, but I would hardly call it an answer. I’m not criticizing; I just think it is an answerless question.
IMost people are skeptical of fortune-tellers to begin with so why would you ask a tasting room employee to predict
the future. But before I get into that, let’s discuss briefly about the do’s and don’ts of cellaring.deally, we wouldn’t have to put too much thought(whites and rosés) in the fridge short-term prior to drinking, but
into it. All of our wine would come directly from the storing wine in your food fridge long term is not doing your wine
winery into our wine fridge/cellar that continues to any favors. Unless you use it only as a fridge for your wine and
keep our wine at a constant 55°F and 70% humidity. change the temperature setting to 55°F, I’m not judging.
But we don’t all have the space or the money for a
wine fridge/cellar. Don’t get me wrong, it would be The next thing to consider is humidity. Having the perfect 70%
my first choice for wine storage but until we build is not necessary; it’s more a matter of avoiding extremes. If you
our dream houses…where does that leave us? We have too much humidity you’ll end up with mold under the capsule
don’t have to have the fridge or the cellar to take and on the cork. I’m not saying that that is a sign of a ruined wine
care of our wine; we just need to understand what either, but you’re taking chances. Unless your wine bottle has
the important aspects of wine storage are. gathered mold sitting un-capsuled in a dark dank wine cave and
hasn’t been moved for 40 years; mold is not a healthy sign of aging.
Temperature is the most important. Notice that I On the other hand if you have too little humidity, the corks may

didn’t say 55°F, I just said temperature. Yes 55°F is become brittle and dry allowing oxygen to seep into the bottle.
great but it is more important to keep a constant This will make your wine age much faster than it should; in fact
temperature. Choose a room in your house that you’ll have vinegar in no time. If you live in a particularly dry
doesn’t fluctuate too much in temperature from area of the world, consider getting a humidifier for the area where
day to night nor season to season. I suggest a room you keep your wine. The big concern here is trying to maintain
without windows because sunlight has amazing warming powers. a constant. If you go from dry to humid to dry to humid, you’re
Remember that heat rises and store your wine as close to ground asking too much of that cork.
level as possible. Basements are great as long as they don’t get

too cold. What is too cold? 45°F or less. You can chill your wines

AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG 7

THE STYROFOAM CELLAR So where are we, now that you can store your wine even without
a wine cellar or wine fridge, the next question is which wines to
Here are your best options lay down. When I consider whether or not to lay down a wine
if you don’t have a cellar. for the future, I like to think first about its past. If the wine was
If you have the space just not kept in optimal conditions prior to being in your possession
leave your wine in the box then it decreases the likelihood that it will continue to age well
it came in! Cardboard boxes over the next years of its life. So say you find a nice bottle of
are great moderators of wine at the grocery store or liquor store or even a wine store, the
temperature. Also frequently problem is you don’t know the life that wine had before it stood
overlooked and rightly gleaming on that shelf. Although we would like to believe that
frowned upon is Styrofoam, every employee, transporter, and handler had the utmost care
but it sure does a great job and consideration for each bottle, let’s be realistic. Most likely it
moderating temperature. Keeping the wine in Styrofoam and then has not had a life in the proper storage conditions. Wines don’t
in a box will help maintain a constant temperature even if the come with anything like a Carfax report…although there could
room fluctuates. So the next time you receive some Styrofoam in be a half a million dollar idea! You have no idea if the wine sat
the mail and you don’t know what to do with it, keep the box, keep in a warm truck or van, how long it has been on the shelf under
the Styrofoam and store some wine! You guys want to know where those lovely grocery store lights. The grocery store/liquor store
I keep my wine? In the bathroom. I have a bathroom with a very wines are the ones you drink within a year or less from the time
cold tiled floor and a dark nook for towels/storage also known as my of purchase. Please don’t leave them on the windowsill or by the
wine cellar. I have a Styrofoam wine shipper (I highly recommend heater but don’t worry too much about their storage conditions.
it) with the wines that I’m “cellaring” and a classic cardboard wine
box that holds my ever-changing dinnertime stash. I’m not saying it But let’s say you’re at a tasting room or ordering from a reputable
is comparable to a wine fridge but I’ve recently opened some wines wine seller and you trust that the wines have been kept at cellar
6-8 years old and it seems my “cellar” has performed quite well! temperature. How do you decide which wines are worthy for

So for now I’ll keep investing in the wine and not the wine cellar.

8 AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG

your cellar? There are some characteristics in a wine that tend to can be up to 1.5% variance in a wine whose label claims to be 14%

lend themselves to aging. For instance, wines that have high acidity or lower. If the label says 14.1% or more there can be up to a 1%

have a better chance at aging. As wines age their acidity tends to variance. The variance can be in either direction and this is why it

mellow out so if you start out with a flabby wine it isn’t going to get can be so hard to determine whether a wine will age. Unless you

better. I have yet to find a bottle of wine where the acidity increased send a sample out to a lab, you really have no idea if a wine that

over time. Tannins are also an important part of the longevity of says 14.5% is actually 14.5% or possibly 15.5% or possibly 13.5%.

the wine. This is why reds tend to have a longer life than whites Or potentially worse, a wine that says 13.5% could actually be

because most whites have little to no tannins. How do the tannins closer to 15%. I’d like to think that with the increased accuracy

help? Well, without getting into organic chemistry, over time and the ease of sending out wines for analysis, that wine labels

tannins in the wine mingle with each other and sometimes change are more accurate than they used to be, but all I know for sure is

shape or join together and it affects the way the tannins interact in that there is wiggle room and the TTB is not going to get around

ourmouths.Usuallytheybecome smoother “Wines that have to making that stricter any time soon.
been fortified
and silkier over time, but there isn’t a So you can never be sure and we are kind of back
formula to tell you how long that takes or to square one. This is another reason why tasting
if it is going to happen. But something I’ve

noticed is that grape tannins tend to age (adding neutral the wine before you make the decision to cellar
better than oak tannins. Unfortunately I’d is a good idea. If you taste a wine that says 13.5%

have to say that years of experience have spirits) age very and it tastes unbalanced or “hot”…maybe it isn’t
allowed me to be able to tell the difference, 13.5%, maybe it is 15%. I like to use the term “hot”
but a pretty good way to tell is by smell. If well! However wines when a wine tastes overly alcoholic to me. And if
the wine has fruit characteristics on the it tastes hot, it probably isn’t built to age.

that are in the 15%nose and mouth then the tannins you are

getting were probably naturally extracted Residual sugar is also something that tends to
increase the ability of wines to age. Think of
or above range tendfrom the grape skins.
to turn to vinegar
If you put your nose in the glass and you much more quickly Sauternes, some Vouvray and Rieslings. Of course
smell nothing but toasted oak and no fruit, it isn’t just the residual sugar that allows these
wines to age beautifully. If that were the case

those tannins do not tend to mingle as White Zinfandel would also have a place in your
wine cellar. All of those mentionable wines also
than wines of lowerwell as skin tannins and tend to fall apart

instead of becoming more layered and alcohol content.” have remarkable acidity which is something that
complex. If you smell a combination of White Zinfandel tends to lack.

both, light oak notes with fruit coming through, go for it! Better

yet, buy a few bottles and open one every 3 years or so. That is If you have all the space in the world, cellar whatever you want. If

the ideal. If you can afford it, cellar more than one bottle of the you need to be more methodical in your selection then taste it first.

same wine. Then you can try it at different points in the wine’s life If you taste the wine and it has a noticeable sharpness (acidity),

and say “still too young” or “doesn’t get any better than this!” or doesn’t make you feel like you might breathe fire (alcohol) and has a

“use it for cooking wine.” But of course what kind of guarantee backbone (tannins), then it would be a fine contestant for cellaring.

can you get that there is no cork taint in the wine that you have

cellared for 5 years? There is no guarantee. Another reason to have

more than one bottle.

ALCOHOL LEVEL AND AGING About the Author

Alcohol level is also something to consider when considering Kristine Austin could be considered an over-educated migrant worker.
aging a wine. I’m talking about wine naturally high in alcohol; I’m With a degree in philosophy and a degree in enology she travels the
not talking about fortified wines. Wines that have been fortified world making wine, working for great winemakers, doing the hard
(adding neutral spirits) age very well! However wines that are in work and getting zero credit (but having very few responsibilities).
the 15% or above range tend to turn to vinegar much more quickly Kristine can be reached at [email protected]
than wines of lower alcohol content. Of course what makes this
more complicated is that the percentage alcohol on the label is
not really has accurate as it may appear. It has wiggle room. There

AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG 9

Cooking With

beaujolais

“ by Kevin Harmon
I find it completely understandable that some wine
enthusiasts confuse Beaujolais with rosé. Both
come from France, are light and smooth reds with

a slightly less than normal content. Both are great

food wines and today I’m focusing on Beaujolais, a

versatile table wine that matches well with many

foods, including pork, beef, seafood, grilled veggies,
and desserts.
”n fact, the best Beaujolais I ever drank served as a
While vacationing along the French Riviera in the early 2000s,
marvelous backdrop for a marinaded pork chop andI asked folks working in bistros both in Nice and Marseille to
strawberry custard pie I had one summer at a little bistroguide me to the country’s reds and I had more Beaujolais and
along southwest Michigan’s Wine Trail. It was a blendBurgundy, which is also a bit too dry and strong for my taste. I had
with other fruits, which made sense since Beaujolais cansoups, shawarma, lots of seafood and salads with Beaujolais and
conjure up flavors of strawberries, peaches, cherries,experienced how complementary it was. One guy told me it was
a “non-pushy wine.” I had it with several fruit-infused desserts
icitrus and some floral notes. too, combined with zest.

Beaujolais isn’t as in vogue as other French wines such

as Bordeaux, Burgundy, rosé or Cabernet Sauvignon. If you can’t make it to southeast France or the Beaujolais region

Some wine drinkers view it as too sweet, too thin, or where the wine from Gamay grapes is produced, you can find

not powerful enough to stand up to bold flavors. Hogwash! The Beaujolais in stores and wine shops across the country. It was

subtleness of the wine from the Beaujolais region makes it great while living in Central New York, not far from Finger Lakes wine

for cooking a variety of foods. It can be dry or acidic, sweet or country that I found a chef who loved pairing Beaujolais with

semi-sweet, giving a punch to sauces, marinades, stews, braised so called “trash fish.” He said the lighter, smoother red — I still

meats and sautéed seafood. It can surprisingly intensify the taste remember the 1999 Pierre Chermette Beaujolais I had with a porgi,

of freshwater fish such as salmon, its cousin trout, whitefish and Spanish mackerel, sauger and catfish ceviche — was underrated

walleye. The sweet, citrus and fruity flavors can add a twist to and pairs well with many dishes thought to go with white wines.

pies, puddings, custards and panna cotta. To this day, I reach for a Beaujolais when making blackened catfish

tacos, a buffalo carp salad, or pan-fried walleye.

10 AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG

MARINATED FLANK STEAK SALAD FOOD&WINE

Flanks steaks — four Perfect for
One shallot turning a salad
Four garlic cloves
One-half teaspoon thyme into a meal
One cup Beaujolais
Spinach
Tomatoes
One cup blackberries

Sauce:
Six slices of cooked bacon
One tablespoon butter
One shallot
Salt and pepper — half a teaspoon
One-half cup of olive oil

Cook bacon, add butter, shallot, salt and butter and oil, stir. Flavor up your flank steak salad by adding even more veggies
Marinade steaks in shallot, garlic thyme and wine for 3-4 hours and grains like cucumbers and couscous or quinoa.
before grilling, make bed of spinach, tomatoes and blackberries,
pour sauce over steak on salad. Make sure to drain bacon fat and
chop bacon before adding with other ingredients.

PORK CHOPS WITH VANILLA PERUVIAN CHICKEN
BROWN SUGAR GLAZE
Four chicken breasts Add an
For the Marinade: Six cloves of garlic international
One cup of Beaujolais One teaspoon of paprika
One tablespoon of vanilla extract One teaspoon of cumin flair
One tablespoon of brown sugar One-half teaspoon of salt and pepper to your
One tablespoon of butter One diced jalapeño pepper next meal
One tablespoon of maple syrup One cup of Beaujolais
Perfect dish One-half cup of olive oil
for family One cup of blueberries
gatherings

Four medium-sized pork chops Mix ingredients, pour in bag over chicken and let marinade 4-6
One-half onion hours. Bake 30 minutes at 400 degrees, serve over brown rice
Two tablespoons of grapeseed oil and arugula.
Half teaspoon of salt and pepper

Combine marinade ingredients, place in saucepan and simmer About the Author
on low heat for five minutes until reduced. Saute chops with oil,
seasoning, and onion for about 5-6 minutes a side on medium Kevin Harmon is a Chicago-based writer, who has worked as a
heat, then pour glaze over chops and serve on sliced apples and personal fitness trainer and personal chef. He has a degree in health
pears salad with mixed greens. education and attended culinary school in Chicago.

AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG 11

Great

Cool Climate
Heirloom Grape

Varieties

by J. Stephen Casscles, Esq.

Underhill’s There are some wonderful cool climate heirloom grape
hybrid grape, varieties that I grow on my farm, Cedar Cliff, which is located
“Croton”, on the west bank of the Hudson River Valley in Athens, NY. Many of these
described in varieties are multi-purpose grapes that produce quality wine, tasty juice, or
An Illustrated fresh fruit. These varieties are productive, winter hardy, fungus, disease and
Descriptive drought resistant, and grow in many different soil types with wide swings
Catalogue in temperature. Hence, they can easily be grown in most of our cool climate
of American regions of North America and Northeast Asia. With the increased interest in
Grape Vines, heirloom fruits and vegetables, it is my hope that this article will be informative
published on many levels.
in 1883. Photo
White grapes
courtesy of Marc
Cheshire, Croton
Historical Society,
crotonhistory.org

Croton Bred on Croton Point, New York Diamond BredinBrighton,NYaround
1870 by Jacob Moore, it is a
around 1863, by the Underhill family, it comes from a seed of Concord seed fertilized by Iona pollen. Its progeny includes the
Delaware pollinated by Chasselas de Fontainbleau. This white Cornell hybrids: Cayuga White, Horizon, and Melody. Diamond
grape makes quality wines. It is moderately susceptible to winter is an early, mid-season ripening variety that is very winter hardy,
injury, with suitable fungus disease resistance. It is moderately productive, and a vigorous grower. It grows well in the same wide
vigorous in heavy soils and grows optimally in well-drained, rich, range of soils as Concord, buds out by mid-season, with disease
silty soils. Its clusters are very pretty, long, slender, cylindrical, and resistance almost as good as Concord. The pale green compact
moderately compact. The fruit and wine is delicate with superior clusters can be somewhat variable in size – medium to short, rather
vinifera/Delaware flavors, and is refreshingly spritely with high broad, somewhat blunt, and cylindrical.
sugars.
The wine is clean, balanced, spicy, and rich; but mild and perfumey.
It can be an assertive white wine with flinty overtones with some
labrusca flavors. It is floral with clean notes of guavas, honey/mead,
banana, some pineapples, and melons. Diamond is produced by
several commercial wineries in the Northeast.

12 AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG

Empire State A James H. Ricketts hybrid that RESEARCH
first fruited in 1879. Ricketts, of
Newburgh, NY, maintained that it came from a seed of Hartford
pollinated by Clinton, however, I and others believe that it is a hybrid
of Clinton with a white European grape. Empire State is comparable
to Niagara and Diamond in its winter hardiness, vigorous growth
habit, fungus disease resistance, and productivity. The fruit quality
is very good, much better than Niagara and nearly as good as
Diamond. Its flavor profile is more of riparia and Muscats, rather
than the foxiness of a labrusca. The clusters are medium-large,
rather slender and cylindrical, with a pretty pale yellowish-green
to light green color.

The wines are clean, well balanced, and floral in nose and taste. They are a
pale light green to yellow; soft, not foxy, with fruit of pink grapefruit, slight
appealing petroleum, pears, bananas, soft melons; bright, full, and flinty, with
a long clean finish.

Iona A Dr. Charles W. Grant hybrid that originated on Iona Island Iona
located on the west bank of the Hudson River, which was
introduced in 1864. Dr. Grant maintained that Iona originated from a seed of Page 13-17 photos courtesy of
Diana planted in 1855. Iona likes a warm soil that is deep and dry, such as well chathamapples.com
drained sandy or gravelly clays. The vine is winter hardy to moderately winter
hardy, of average productivity and vigorousness, and only somewhat resistant to
most fungus diseases. Its fruit ripens late mid-season to late. The berries have a
unique pale to dark pink/red hue with some amethyst and watermelon shades that
are not uniform. The nearly cylindrical cluster is medium-large to large, with rather
loose large berries of varying size that can ripen unevenly. Its sugars range from
between 18˚to 22˚ Brix.

Despite its not so perfect cultivation attributes, Iona is great in the cellar.
The grape has delightfully soft labrusca flavors that carry through into its wines.
It is of similar quality to Delaware, but it is much softer, rounder, perfumey and
approachable; with elements of melons, white peaches, pears, soft tropical fruits,
guava and watermelon and none of the muskiness of Delaware.

Winchell A white wine grape that was raised by James M. Clough of Stamford, Vermont around 1850. Winchell is a
viticulturally superior grape both in the field and in the cellar. Winchell is very vigorous that adapts well
to many different soil types. It is very winter hardy, healthy, fungus/disease resistant, and very productive.

The cluster is moderately compact, moderately large in size, and slightly cylindrical that tapers. The medium-sized berries are greenish

to yellow with small brown dots. The variety ripens by late-early to early mid-season and attains sugars of between 18˚ to 19˚ Brix,

but its taste is perceived to be sweeter because of the grape’s low acidity. The variety has a soft, nuanced, and very approachable

labrusca taste. The wines are yellow-green in color, floral, grapey, with very fine soft white labrusca flavors complimented by notes

of honey, apricots, bananas, and pineapples, with a body and viscosity that is medium to heavy for a white wine. Winchell was used

to breed the Geneva hybrids Cayuga White and Horizon.

AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG 13

Pink and

Diana Agawam A Carter x Black Hamburg hybrid that was
bred in 1851 by Edward S. Rogers of Salem,
MA. Agawam is a dark and dull purplish-red with a lilac bloom. Agawam
is a vigorous variety that is hardy with thick canes. It is winter hardy,
productive to very productive, but needs a careful spray program to
combat fungus diseases. Agawam prefers a somewhat heavy soil, doing
better on clay than on sand or gravel. Agawam is harvested mid-season
to late-mid season. Of the Rogers hybrids, it is the only completely self-
fertile variety, but its production is enhanced when placed in a mixed
variety vineyard.

The attractive cluster is medium-large to large and somewhat loose to
moderately compact. The cluster is short, rather broad, and tapering
to somewhat cylindrical. It is a dual-purpose grape that is good for the
table and for wine production. It makes a quality white wine that is
aromatic and fruity with a Muscat flavor and herbal finish, that blends
well with other white wines.

Diana Was planted by Diana Crehore of Milton, MA about 1834 from an open pollinated Catawba. Diana did not
do well in its place or origin, cool coastal New England; but, thrives in the warmer climate and soils of the
Mid-Hudson River Valley. Diana is very productive and has a full and pretty cluster, exotic flavors, and sugars between 19˚ and 20˚
Brix. The flavor is similar to Catawba, but with more guava flavors that are rich, spicy, and tangy.

The vine is capricious where it grows; and does best on relatively poor, dry, gravelly soils. The cluster is moderately compact with
a delicate pale red/amber to rose color. It ripens about one week to ten days after Concord. The vine can be somewhat cold tender
and is somewhat resistant to fungus diseases. The cluster is medium large and stubby, being tapering to cylindrical.

Jefferson A J.H. Ricketts hybrid introduced in 1880. It is a Concord x Iona hybrid that is excellent both as a table grape
and for wine production. Jefferson can resemble the vigor, productivity, health and disease resistance of
Concord, but is not Concord’s equal. In color and quality, the fruit resembles Iona, but the cluster is much
prettier than Iona, being red/bronze.

It produces fruit early-late season, approximately seven to ten days after Concord. Jefferson is not particular about its soils. It is a
superior table grape because of its attractive appearance and very large clusters and berry size. The clusters are cylindrical to tapering
and well formed. The flavor and texture of the grape is juicy with rich vinous flavors and delicate strawberry-like aroma. The light
pale golden colored wines are of excellent quality; with fruits of apricots, soft labruscas, honey, pears, melons, and light almonds.

14 AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG

Light Red grapes

Massasoit An E.S. Rogers hybrid of Carter x Black Hamburg. The color is dark-brownish red to

red with lilac bloom. Massasoit is a strong, hardy, and vigorous to very vigorous grower that is productive. It is winter hardy, but fairly
susceptible to fungus diseases. Its self-sterile flowers bloom mid-season to late season. It will occasionally set out very partially filled
clusters of small to very small seedless grapes, referred to a Williams Seedless. The cluster size is medium and short, rather broad, that
is cylindrical to tapering. The harvest date is late-early about the same time as Delaware.

Salem An E.S. Rogers hybrid of Carter x Black Hamburg developed in 1851.
The color is an attractive dark red/chestnut, with a medium blue
bloom. Salem is a vigorous variety that is moderately productive that
can be variable in its production. The variety can be
susceptible to fungus diseases without a good spray
program. On the plus side, it has an open canopy which
increases air flow and sunshine to facilitate fungicide sprays. It is as winter
hardy as Delaware or more so.
Salem is not particular to the soils that it will grow in. Its self-
sterile flowers bloom by mid-season. Self-fertile pollinators
that bloom with it include, Catawba, Concord, Delaware,
Iona, Empire State, Jefferson, Niagara, Winchell, and
Worden. Its harvest date is with Concord or even earlier.
The cluster is medium to large, compact, short and
broad, and tapering to cylindrical. It is a handsome fruit
of quality for the table and makes a high-quality white
wine. It has a soft labrusca/Muscat nose, with a delicately
rich aromatic, sprightly, and vinous flavor. Salem is relatively
low in sugar at 17˚ Brix, with low acidity like Delaware.

Vergennes A red grape found by William E. Massasoit
Greene of Vergennes, Vermont in
1874. Vergennes wines, both dry and semi-dry, are quality white
labrusca-type wines that are produced by Arbor Hill Winery in
the Finger Lakes. The vine is generally winter hardy and productive to
very productive. Vergennes produces a large berried attractive bright
colored red grape. The clusters are of medium size and length, broad
and cylindrical to tapering, and of variable compactness. Overall,
the vine is healthy and somewhat resistant to fungus diseases. It is a
safe and productive variety for marginal vineyard sites. Vergennes
flowers by mid-season to late season, whose flowers are semi-sterile.
The variety ripens late about one to two weeks after Concord.

AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG 15

Blue and

Black Eagle

A Underhill hybrid that was developed around 1862 on Croton
Point, New York. It comes from a seed of Concord fertilized

by Black Prince. This is a self-infertile variety, but easily
pollinates in a mixed variety vineyard. It buds out late and
its leaf pattern looks like Merlot or Riesling, but its thick
leathery leaves are olive colored. Because of its pretty leaves
and luxuriant growth habit, for landscaping purposes, Black
Eagle is a great vine selection for an arbor. Its female flowers
open by mid-season and it ripens by mid-season like Concord.
The variety is vigorous on heavy loam soils, has good winter
hardiness, and is moderately susceptible to fungus diseases.
The clusters are large, long, tapering, and moderately compact
to moderately loose. The flavors are integrated and full with a
combination of soft labrusca and some Muscat elements.

Black Eagle Bacchus

Bacchus A J.H. Ricketts hybrid that is a AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG
seedling of Clinton that was first
exhibited in 1879. It is vigorous to very vigorous, healthy, productive, very winter
hardy, and very resistant to fungus diseases and insect damage. Bacchus adapts
to a wide range of soils, but does not thrive in droughty soils or those which
contain too much lime.

It ripens relatively late, its clusters are small to medium, slender, and compact.
The thin-skinned berries are slightly smaller than medium size, black, and glossy
in texture. Its virtues include its very high winter hardiness, freedom from
fungus and insect damage, and high productivity. Its sugars are between 22˚and
25˚ Brix. The red wines are big, dark, fruity and flinty with muted labrusca-type
flavors that can be improved with wood aging. The wines have big middle acids
and tannins with great body and presence. The wine is not overpowering, so it
can be utilized in blends.

16

Black grapes

EumelanA chance seedling
found by Mr. Thorne
of Fishkill Landing, New York in 1847. The vine is vigorous, very
winter hardy, and productive. The cluster is loose, large, and rather
long and slender, with an attractive black to blue color. The flavor
has little foxiness and is rich, sweet, and vinous, with low acid, which
makes a good and hearty red wine. Eumelan ripens by early mid-
season. Some of its disadvantages are its moderate susceptibility
to fungus diseases and sterile female flowers. The flowers bloom
late, but with a compatible pollinator, it pollinates easily. Eumelan
can produce relatively complex flinty red wines with good body and
fruit in the nose and taste for an heirloom variety. These wines are
good on their own or used in blends.

Cottage “Eumelan It is my hope that our cool climate
Ephraim W. Bull, of growers and winemakers will consider
Concord, MA, the some of these excellent heirloom grape
varieties. Further, that those interested
originator of the Concord grape, also developed Cottage, and in
some ways, it is superior. Cottage is a seedling of Concord and in low or no spray programs to produce

was introduced by Bull in 1869. Cottage resembles its seed parent grapes and wine organically will consider
Concord in many ways. Cottage is a very vigorous growing variety
”these grape varieties as well.
with thick olive-colored leathery leaves. The canes are thinner and About the Author
more spindly than Concord and has a thicker canopy. It is healthy
and winter hardy, with moderately good fungus disease resistance,
but it is not as resistant to fungus diseases as Concord.

Cottage fruit is of better quality than Concord, with a less foxy
labrusca flavor. It is richer and more delicate in flavor that lends

itself to the production of better quality wines. Cottage wines

have more muted labrusca flavors, with tannins that are more Stephen Casscles, is author of “Grapes of the Hudson Valley” (2015),
balanced, and a softer acid structure. This variety ripens at about a winemaker at the Hudson-Chatham Winery in New York and a

the same time as Concord, or earlier, but tends to ripen unevenly frequent guest lecturer  in the Hudson Valley at colleges, historical
and drops its fruit when ripe. The clusters are somewhat smaller societies, and botanical gardens in New York City, Boston, and the

than Concord that are a dull black color. It can make acceptable Hudson Valley. He writes for wine/agricultural/local history journals
wines, especially when used as a base for ports and sherries or for on grapes, winemaking, and on horticultural subjects and local
history, and is associated with the SUNY at Cobleskill Fermentation
semi-dry country red wines. Sciences Program. He can be reached at [email protected]

AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG 17

MacedoniaFrom Mother Teresa to Black Stallion,
has a rich history
by Dave Barber

In the 4th century B.C.E. the empire of Macedonia fault which has caused major earthquakes in the past. Most
once stretched from Northern Africa, through the recently the devastating earthquake in 1963 destroyed over
Middle East and even into India. However, with
the demise of Greek civilization, the area began to 70% of the city, basically causing a major redesign of the
shrink, the Romans occupied much of it, then the city prior to it being rebuilt. Today, much of the city is
Byzantines, and then the Ottoman Empire eventually rebuilt, but there are still major construction projects
ruled. Skipping ahead to the 20th century, Macedonia to be seen throughout.
came under Serbian rule after the Balkan wars, and
eventually part of the Socialist Federal Republic of On a recent visit to Macedonia, we spent the first few
Yugoslavia after WW II. days in Skopje taking in as much of the culture and

On September 8, 1991, the Republic of Macedonia history as possible. The museums are top-notch with
peacefully seceded and claimed its independence. many fascinating artifacts. A visit to the Mother Teresa
On a world-wide basis, today, Macedonia is museum honoring this great humanitarian who was
officially recognized as The Former Yugoslav born in Skopje in 1910 is a must. We also visited the
Republic of Macedonia, since the Greeks claim that
the true Macedonia is part of Greece, just over the Cathedral of St. Clement, which is the largest
border. It has recently been announced, though, Orthodox Cathedral in Macedonia and contains
that Macedonia will rename itself The Republic of many very impressive icons and frescos, as well as
North Macedonia in order to ease this tension. a massive golden chandelier hanging in the central
dome. Also, throughout Skopje, the food and drink
Today, Macedonia is a landlocked country of just under
10,000 square miles, making it a bit larger than Vermont is plentiful and quite affordable.
or Maryland in size. The country is rather mountainous with a
central valley formed by the Vardar River. Most of Macedonia Even though wine has been produced in Macedonia
enjoys a moderate Mediterranean climate. There are just over for over 2,000 years, the wine industry in Macedonia
two million residents of Macedonia, with a bit over one quarter is relatively new with just under one hundred wineries
of them living in the capital of Skopje. throughout the country. Yes, there are wineries and vineyards
that had been established in the 1800s, but most of these were
Any visit to Macedonia will most likely begin in Skopje as it is the nationalized and had become quite industrial during the Yugoslav
capital and has the largest international airport in the country, era. However, since independence, some of these have again been
with many connections to other European cities. Skopje is a clean, privatized and more and more wineries have been established
modern European city built along the valley plains of the west to since the turn of the 21st century. The standard European grapes
east flowing Vardar River, before it turns south. It is near a seismic such as Chardonnay, Riesling, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, etc.
are grown throughout Macedonia and make some pleasant wines.
Even though it is generally thought to be a climate too warm for
Pinot Noir, much is also grown here and is made into a Macedonia
style wine of rustic fruitiness, somewhat different than Pinot from
other great regions.

18 AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG

“Vraneč has indeed become the Macedonian TRAVEL

signature red grape. The grape lives up to its STOBI

name, which means ‘black stallion’ and produces Another large winery that we visited was Stobi. This winery is rather
new and very modern but produces large volumes of excellent
a big bold, inky wine that takes well to oak wines. Their Rkatsiteli was dry and crisp with hints of citrus, while
their Acacia is 100% Chardonnay, but aged in Acacia barrels giving
aging or blending with other varietals.” very floral notes to the wine. Stobi also produces a varietal Petit
Verdot which is inky, smooth and very fruity, as well as a Vraneč
BLACK STALLION showing a slight earthiness with spicy fruit, lingering with soft
tannins and pleasant acids. The Stobi winery is located near the
There are also many local grape varieties grown and made into architectural excavation site of Stobi, which was the largest and
excellent wines. The dominant Macedonian red grape is Vraneč capital city of the Roman province Macedonia Secunda. This is a
(vrahn•ets). Although, originally thought to have come from very interesting side trip to visit and view the unearthed mosaics
Montenegro, Vraneč has indeed become the Macedonian signature and ruins of this ancient city.
red grape. The grape lives up to its name, which means ‘black
stallion’ and produces a big bold, inky wine that takes well to CHATEAU SOPOT
oak aging or blending with other varietals. As for white grapes,
Rkatsiteli was introduced into Macedonia in the 1950s and has Also in the central valley of Macedonia is Chateau Sopot. This is
become very widely spread, as well as Temjanika, which has muscat also a relatively new winery sitting just off the main north/south
origins and can be made dry, off-dry, and even sweet. highway overlooking the large valley filled with vineyards. This
is indeed a very picturesque site. Here we tasted a Riesling, Pinot
We visited a few wineries, generally in the central region of the Noir, a semi-dry Temjanika, and a Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon,
country around the greater Vardar valley. The largest winery is Tikveš which for being almost five years old, was still young with notes
(tik •vesh) which still produces the volumes it did while nationalized. of dried cherries, a hint of smokiness and lingering soft tannins.
However, they are also paying much more attention to a line offiner
quality wines. In fact, a smaller winery under the Tikveš corporate
umbrellais Domaine Lepovo. A visit here shows their dedication to fine
wine, especially demonstrated by their aggressive oak management
programandbytastingtheirpremier wines. The Chardonnay was rich
with an emphasis of fruit complimented with six months in French
oak; the Pinot Noir was dark and full bodied with its domination
of rich fruit; and the star was the Grand Cuvée, which was 60%
Vraneč, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 15% Merlot. Even though this
wine was from a vintage almost five years old, spending eighteen
months in oak, it still tasted quite young with smooth, spicy, flavors
of rich fruit, cherries, berries, cocoa, and very balanced.

AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG CHATEAU KAMNICK

The closest winery to Skopje is Chateau Kamnick, which is a
beautiful building located on the top of a hillside overlooking

19

Overlooking Lake Ohrid, one of Europe’s oldest and deepest lakes.

the vineyards and city. Founded in 2004, this winery produces and spend a few days around Lake Ohrid, one of Europe’s oldest
world-class wines from its estate vineyards. Fortunate enough and deepest lakes and is on the border with Albania. This largest
to have dinner served to us on the terrace, we experienced a lake in Macedonia is spring-fed and has many resorts and villas
full five course meal, each served with a selected Kamnick wine along its banks and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
as watched the setting sun over the city sprawled in the valley
below. We were greeted with glasses of ‘Spark’, a crisp Brut, served Macedonia produces a great deal of wine. It ranks as the 25th
with some selected bites to get us started for the evening. With largest country in the world for wine production – not bad for such
the meal, the wines served were an exquisite Sauvignon Blanc, a small-sized country. Much of the wine is consumed in Macedonia,
a barrel fermented Chardonnay, a rich and full bodied Syrah, a but most of the exported wine goes to other Balkan countries
single vineyard Merlot and with dessert, Euphoria, a late harvest and the European Union, however, there is some Macedonian
Temjanika. And if we did not have enough with our meal, all the wine finding its way into the United States, so look for some at
other Kamnick wines were offered afterwards. your local outlets. But be sure to visit Macedonia soon in order to
discover this hidden jewel.
We were also fortunate to be invited by the winemaker to taste
a few Kamnick library wines. These included a 2009 Cabernet About the Author
Sauvignon, which showed very dark fruit, cassis, black olives,
cherries, and was very balanced; a 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon, which Dave Barber is a wine educator and a long-term member of AWS
was still bright purple with dark cherries and bright fruit with a and continues to instruct within the Wine Judge Certification
lingering, lively, slightly tart finish; a 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon, Program. He belongs to many other wine organizations and has
which was an inky chocolate color with intense fruit and rich traveled the world in search of the local wines. Dave has also been
tannins; and a 2013 Syrah, which had a deep, intense color, aromas named the Outstanding Member for AWS for 2011.
of roasted coffee beans and very smooth mocha fruitiness with
hints of vanilla. Truly, a great experience!

Finally, after all of your wine touring, head to southwest Macedonia

20 AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG

SIPTALK

MozartDo Not Kill the
...and other thoughts about vintage

by Eric Miller

It’s no secret that universities around the world have contributed to vast improvements in wine
growing (enology AND viticulture). The quality at the top, even your average jug wine, has become

dependably….well, I want to say….stellar, compared to when I was a boy. As a mark of my wife’s
endless patience I was given permission to pursue this question with two winemakers while we were
in the Rhone Valley this summer. What I asked, literally, was: “Given the technical progress made in
the vineyard and cellar and the benign climate of the Rhone Valley, does vintage matter any more?”

BIAS BACKGROUND

I drink a lot of Rhone wines. I love its red blends (Grenache The Rhone wine region is in the south of France on both sides of
and Syrah are the biggies, plus smaller amounts of Mourvèdre, the Rhone River in the meandering valley between the Alps and the
Cinsault, Carignan and omg, Viognier, a white!) They pair well Ardèche Mountains. It stops at Vienne to the north. To the south
with many sauces, veggies and meats and range from value- it widens and ends a few miles before the Mediterranean Sea. Its
price to holy moly. I drink them in vintages that are considered soils are made up of sandy silica, granite, limestone
challenging, like 2002, and lay down bottles from Vintage Chart and clay. It is one of the warmest regions in France
Busters, like 2015. with a long growing/ripening period. During the dry
growing season vines are typically blasted and dried
by the hot summer Mistral winds, which later brings a
chill. Different sub-regions have differing regulations on irrigation
and percentages of each permitted variety.

AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG 21

DO NOT KILL THE MOZART

Daniel answered my question like a French winemaker. “You
must not kill the Mozart.” My quizzical face told him he needed
to show me what he meant. The Mozart thing. Between dashing
back and forth as a new wood tank was being set he showed me
the 2018 iteration of a modern winery built to accommodate one
magnificent wine (and 4 sisters).

Entering the town of Chateauneuf du Pape. No photographs. I was warned his agents have my contact info
so I will only tell you that the mixture of oak and stainless steel
are laid out so he can pace, smell, taste and ruminate about each
fermenting tank. “Sometimes you have to talk to a tank. And then,
merde, I have to do this or that!”

Two winemakers rose to the challenge of answering my question, For Daniel, the vintage IS the Mozart. It is everything. His daddy’s
beginning with Daniel Brunier. He is the owner/winemaker for Vieux daddy’s daddy was at it in 1891 and little has changed in how the vines are
Telegraph, my Prince of Chateauneuf du Pape and a legendary organic maintained and what is done in the winery. “The less you do in the
grower. I drank his wine frequently before the world discovered cellar the more you will tastethevintage.”Almostanythingyoudointhe
it and the price per bottle
exceeded my weekly wine cellarkillsalittleoftheMozart.
And you can’t replace what is
“The less you do in the cellar the more youbudget. His vineyards were gone. “Every winemaker wants
to make a brave powerful sleek
immaculate, except for a racehorse,” he says. “Not a
donkey. Some approach a
will taste the vintage.” Almost anything youlittledroughtstressshowing difficult vintage by delaying
do in the cellar kills a little of the Mozart.”intheleaves.Completewithpicking, waiting for the racehorse.” He knew me well. I’ve done just
that. “A donkey is almost human. Sweet, gentle with lovely eyes. Pretty
the photo-perfect unbroken gray coat.” His answer was the opposite of what you might expect.
carpet of large river-rolled stones that heat by day and warm the “So pick early. Drink early. Love the donkey for what it is and not the
vineyard at night. Vines, a minimum of 40 years. (At that age they sameness. Take home: Vintages are different and they do matter.
have a “smoke, a lightness even with high sugar, saltiness, depth,
the abilities one has mid-life”.) The winery is out of a movie set
complete with grinding cicadas, small olive trees, shading locust.
The man is movie- star handsome with the body of a tennis champ.

I wanted his looks and his money but we kept to wine talk. WINE RECOMMENDATION

2015 Vieux Telegraph – How can a wine so young and closed be so
effusive with cherry, mint and a candy mouth-feel? What every

Chateauneuf du Pape strives to be.

Vieux Telegraph vineyard. Pierre Clape.

22 AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG

CARE IN CORNAS The town of Chateauneuf du Pape.

For my second interview I headed north to Cornas to meet Pierre fermentation by January. He racks one time before winter, adding
Clape at his winery and got lost. No sign. The metal front door SO2. He leaves it until summer and racks 2 or 3 times, mostly to
has not been painted since it left the factory, maybe 50 years ago. clean up the smells of oxygen reduction before bottling.
His vines hang for dear life about a kilometer up the other side
of the road. Before we drove into the vineyard we met in his neat Pretty basic stuff. He acknowledges vintage variation like this: “People
but dusty office. It was quiet because he and his son are the main who buy wine want a vintage with a good reputation. No reputation,
labor and he was busy with me. Short grey hair, sincere eyes, hands but just as good, they buy less. So, two years later, when the wine wakes
and teeth the color of Syrah (The only legal grape for red wine in up, we can sell it.” Hadn’t thought about vintage affecting cash flow.
Cornas is Syrah). But how Pierre grows wine does not change.

Pierre became a vigneron in spite of his father. When he graduated WINE RECOMMENDATION
from high school his father told him to get a good job. No future
in growing wine, he worked in a factory for 17 years; but he’s been 2016 Cornas, A. Clape– Mortgage your home, rob one of the
making wine for about 25 years now. I asked him what he does few shops able to obtain this wine, drink and die. Rich but not
differently than his father. After WW II there was no money to fat. Fruity, but not silly.
pay wages and no one to work in the vineyard. The only way to
operate was mechanically with the use of herbicides, pesticides and So yes, vintages still matter but my conclusion is that these
industrial fertilizer. Pierre got rid of the tractor and uses horses, a winemakers’ amazing vintage to vintage consistency is
cable and wench. No more herbicides etc. “Safer, less destructive,” achieved through an indescribable balance between: 1) scientific
he says. “Fifty or seventy five years ago there was no analysis of understanding, 2) age of their vines, 3) what deep roots provide
gathered information. People used only their experience. Now to the grape, 4) climatic suppression of pests, 5) something in the
we do what our grandfather’s did because we understand what old barrels, 6) minimal use of SO2, 7) not “killing the Mozart”, 8)
is going on.” by filtering and other chemical additions, 9) seasoned judgement
and hard work.
“If you plant in a bad place the wine is boring. When you put vines
in a good place you can make grapes into wine.” Pierre’s 50-year-
old vines look like skinny pole beans. It’s really hot and sunny so
he’s tied the longest shoots into a “bridge” to stipple the intense
sun. These vines are cared for consistently and personally. Pierre
acknowledged good luck in 2016. It rained a lot in the spring but
then the season dried up and the rotten berries fell out!

Pierre’s dark musty cellar typically completes the malolactic

About the Author

Eric Miller has been an east coast American winemaker for more
than 40 years, first at his family’s Benmarl Vineyards in New York
State and then at Chaddsford Winery in Pennsylvania, which he
founded and co-owned from 1982 through 2012. He has spent all
of his adult life growing, conceiving and producing wines, learning
and teaching about wine, traveling to wine regions around the
world, and, most importantly, tasting and drinking wine. He can
be reached at [email protected]

Pierre Clape’s vineyard. WINEJOURNAL

AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG 23

PAI S Mission Accomplished

by Roger Morris

An almost-forgotten grape–the one whose vines Spanish
missionaries brought with them to the newly conquered

countries of the New World in the 16th through 18th

centuries – is making a comeback.

U nlike other countries who established colonies now about 8,000 hectares [almost 20,000 acres] planted, and I’ve
in North and South America – including the been fighting for years to have more of it made as serious wine.”
English, Dutch, French and Russians – only the
Spanish invaders were followed by religious While a few winemakers agreed with Tapio, Aurelio Montes
missionaries intent on converting indigenous of the eponymous Montes winery and then head of Wines
peoples to Christianity, whether or not they wanted to of Chile, tried to dampen that enthusiasm, preferring to
be. Their blueprint was to establish remote missions in concentrate the conversation on the promotion Chilean
areas where Native Americans lived and to set up self- wines made from international varieties. Accordingly, no
sustaining agriculture, which included planting vineyards País was among the scores of wines sampled on ship.
for sacramental wines as well as the less-spiritual needs of Nevertheless, the comeback is now underway, led by two
the fathers. These grapes were known by different names winemakers who were aboard the Australis – Julio and Juan
in different lands – Mission in California, Criolla in Bouchon – who had just assumed control of the family’s
Argentina, and País in Chile. J. Bouchon winery in the Maule Valley a year earlier, in
Currently, two countries are leading the comeback 2014. “When Juan and I took over from my father, we
for these grapes and the wines they make – Chile, were looking for more identity for our winery,” Julio told
and to a lesser extent, California in the U.S. – but me in a recent interview.
not without some controversy. In the 1990s, there “There were some old País vines next to our vineyard
was about the same amount of País planted in that weren’t being bottled as wine,” he said. “We all
Chile – around 37,000 acres – as was their iconic tasted them when we were growing up, and they
Cabernet Sauvignon, a fact that embarrassed some are part of the heritage of Chile.” And so, the first
modernist winegrowers, who considered País too J. Bouchon País was bottled in the 2015 vintage.
rustic for prime time. Today, Bouchon has three País wines in the U.S.,
During a large meeting of journalists and all imported by Vine Connections.
Chilean winemakers a few years ago aboard the Anyone who has lived in rural areas in temperate
ship Australis in Patagonia’s Straits of Magellan, climates, regardless of the continent, know
winemakers and writers disagreed as to whether that grape vines are just like other woody
it was worth the effort to try to bring to external vines, growing naturally on the edges of, or
markets a varietal that had been regarded as within, forests, where the climb high into the
simple jug wine in Chile, as Mission wines were tree branches. Long before I was old enough to
regarded in the U.S. drink grape wine, I was swinging on grape vines
Some thought it was. “I’m super-enthusiastic severed a couple of feet above their roots.
about País,” said Chile’s premier wine writer, In the old País vineyard owned by the Bouchons,
Patricio Tapia. “I take it seriously. It’s our most vines were head-pruned, as is usually the
own Beaujolais – rustic but juicy. There are

Photo courtesy of Vine Connections
vineconnections.com

24 AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG

Grape picking hits new heights with tree vines. Photo courtesy of Bouchon Winery.

case with old-vine vineyards, whether one with Zinfandel in Tree Vines?
the Russian River Valley or Tempranillo in Toro. Wines made
from these old vines are labeled “J. Bouchon País Viejo.” But the The Bouchons decided to make wine from the tree vines as well
Bouchons also found vines at the edges of the vineyard that were – perhaps having the only picking crews that needed tall ladders
growing into the trees as did like their wild ancestors, and these to harvest grapes. They called these “J. Bouchon País Salvaje.”
vines were still producing clusters of fruit. “Salvaje” means “savage” or “wild,” either definition being a good
one. There is both a red and a white version.

The wines are made quite simply. A local traditional tool made
of sticks, called a “zaranda,” is used for destemming, although
sometimes up to half of the grapes are left in clusters for carbonic
maceration. Native yeasts are used for fermentation, which is
done in concrete tanks. No oak is used, and the finished wines
are neither filtered nor fined. A white version of País Salvaje is
fermented in amphorae.

Photo courtesy of Bouchon Winery. The 2017 País Viejo ($15 SRP) is lean and fresh, with flavors
of tart strawberries and raspberry. Not surprisingly, the 2017
País Salvaje ($20) is similar in taste but with perhaps a bit more
piquancy in the finish. Both belong to a class of simply-made, very
fresh wines that are often called “carafe wines,” the kind served
in European cafes and bistros, perhaps slightly chilled. They are
meant to be a pleasant accompaniment to tomato-based foods

AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG 25

and grilled meats, but are not at all
like the fruitier, Beaujolais-style of
refreshing wines.

The País renaissance movement Photo courtesy of Bouchon Winery.
in Chile is part of a larger
trend, especially among younger “We wanted to expand the scope of our South American
winemakers, that includes promoting wines,” Jones says, “and we were looking for wines with
other international varieties that authenticity. These are not typical brooding wines, and they
were grown there before Cabernet appeal to our customers, who are often looking for something
Sauvignon and Chardonnay a little weirder.”
became popular. A particular
emerging favorite is Carménère, Not surprisingly, Mission grapes, once ubiquitous in California,
which J. Bouchon also produces. are being re-examined by a few winemakers, although not to
“While País has sharper, rustic the same extent as in Chile. Rob Campbell of Story Vineyard in
tannins, Carménère has soft, Plymouth has a small Mission vineyard, and Bryan Harrington,
sweeter tannins,” Julio says. a self-proclaimed natural winemaker, produces a Harrington
Mission wine from the Somers Vineyard in Lodi. Bill Wathen
The País renaissance movement of Foxen Vineyard in Santa Barbara County makes a sweet
wine from the grape called “Angelica,” a style popular in
in Chile is part of a larger California during the late 19th Century.

trend, especially among younger In would probably be wise not to finish a serious wine-trend
article with a phrase celebrating the joys of achieving “País in
winemakers, that includes our time.” But, alas, it’s in the DNA of writers to be drawn to
puns the way grapevines are drawn to climb trees.
promoting other international
About the Author
varieties that were grown there
Roger Morris is a Pennsylvania-based writer who contributes article
Photo courtesy of Vine Connections before Cabernet Sauvignon and to several publications, including Wine Enthusiast, Town & Country,
vineconnections.com The Drinks Business, Beverage Media and TheDailyMeal.com. Roger
can be reached at [email protected].
Chardonnay became popular. A particular emerging favorite is

Carménère, which J. Bouchon also produces. “While País has

sharper, rustic tannins, Carménère has soft, sweeter tannins,”

Julio says.



The Bouchons have also taken an academic interest in the origins

and various international iterations of País, whatever their local

names. They helped sponsor studies that traced the history of

País after it left Spain as well as researched its DNA. Recently

they sponsored a symposium on the topic in Chile, and a similar

presentation is planned for the U.S. in 2019. Other País producers

whose wines are available in the U.S. include Flichman, Cacique

Maravilla and Louis-Antoine Luyt.

One American restaurant wine director who specializes in
having pipeños on his wine list is Zach Jones of El Che Bar
in Chicago. A recent glance at his wine list included a Louis-
Antoine Luyt País Pipeño and a Cacique Miravilla País Pipeño,
both from the Bio Bio Valley in the cooler southern region
around Concepcíon. A third listing was a Vina Maitia “Aupa”
Pipeño blend of País and Carignan from the Maule Valley, sold
by the glass.

26 AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG

WINEJOURNAL

AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG 27

PAUL WAGNER
earns 2018 Award of Merit

During the 2018 National Conference in Buffalo, attended the conference to accept his award. “I have great
NY, the American Wine Society (AWS) granted respect for John Hames, who recently retired as the executive
its highest honor — the Award of Merit — to Paul director of the AWS, and I am delighted that he is being
Wagner, founder of Balzac Communications. honored with the Outstanding Member award at this same
Wagner has presented at many AWS conferences, and remains conference. And I have loved the many sessions at that national
active with the WinTour Wine Tourism MBA program, leading conference that I have taught. The members are so appreciative
AWS wine cruises, teaching at Napa Valley College, joining the and energized. I think I get more from them than they ever get
U.S. tour of the Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux, judging from me.”
the California State Fair Wine Competition and lecturing at
Fresno State and Cambridge universities. Wagner will teach the Wines of Germany class this spring at
Napa Valley College, and in the fall, he will return to teach
“Paul has been a great friend not only to our organization, Wine Marketing and Sales and A Cultural Appreciation of Wine.
but also to the wine industry,” said David Falchek, executive
director of the AWS. “Working in the background as a In addition, Wagner will publish two new books this year:
marketing professional and an educator, Paul has influenced the “Artisan Public Relations” from Board and Bench Publishing,
way the public drinks wine and thinks about wine. His passion and “Wine Sales and Distribution” from Rowman and
and work has aligned with the AWS mission to promote wine Littlefield. The latter was written with co-authors John
appreciation through education.” Crotts of the College of Charleston, and Byron Marlowe of
Washington State University. And the third edition of Wagner’s
“It’s really lovely that they have done this,” said Wagner, who “Wine Marketing & Sales” will also be published this year by
Board and Bench.

28 AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG

SpitTake:
Breaking a Tie

by Ellen Landis,CS,CSW

”Gold, Gold, Silver, Silver—let’s discuss!” The glasses understand very well. Those with whom I judged an “other white
for that flight remain on the table. The tie must be varieties” flight at a recent competition lacked experience judging
broken. This is a typical around-the-table call out on a panel of that variety. They were pleased with the depth of information I
four professional judges at a wine competition. What happens next provided them. After further discussion, the panel tasted the wine
can change the fortunes of an unheralded winemaker, or end a again, and it went from barely a Silver medal, to Gold.
hot streak for a top-end winery. Wines awarded Gold or Double
Gold (unanimous Gold from all judges on that panel), not only Breaking the tie is one of the most exciting parts of any competition.
gain kudos and shiny medals to display, but can provide vintners It presents a fun opportunity to share perspectives and knowledge,
a direct route to increased exposure, publicity, and sales. and become a better judge and co-panelist by understanding what
other judges experience in the wines. As I often say, every palate
With the glasses down, the table captain, or score recorder, is unique. The discussion that follows—during which passions
documents the score of each judge, and tallies the combined can show—is part of what has energized my interest in wine, and
group score. A good judge will have given every wine thoughtful judging over the past 16 years across vastly different competitions.
consideration—each wine on its own merits, regardless of their There is always more to learn...and plenty of wine and conversation
personal like or dislike of a particular variety or style. A good judge, to fuel a passionate judge on the way to deciding which wines
who may taste 50-125 wines that day, will have been spitting—the
first step to maintaining a clear palate—and being invited back to Ab”out the Authordeserve “Gold!
judge. A good judge will be ready to explain and debate their case Ellen Landis, CS, CSW, is a published wine writer, certified
when ties occur. Communication is key. sommelier, wine educator and professional wine judge. She spent
four years as a sommelier at the Ritz Carlton and sixteen years as
The most important element of this round is about to begin: it’s Wine Director/Sommelier at the award winning boutique hotel
time to lobby. Each judge presents his or her case as to why they she and her husband built and operated in Half Moon Bay, CA.
believe this wine deserves a Gold or Silver medal. The judges calling They recently sold the hotel to devote more time to the world of
out Gold hope to talk up one, or both, of the judges who ranked wine. Ellen is a moderator for highly acclaimed wine events, judges
it Silver to move their vote to Gold. A consensus must be reached numerous regional, national and international wine competitions
before the panel moves on to the next flight of wines. each year, and creates and executes wine seminars for individuals
and corporations. She has traveled extensively to wine regions
I appreciate wine competition directors who, when assigning around the globe. Contact Ellen at [email protected]
flights of wines, take into consideration wine varieties for which
certain judges have a high level of expertise. That allows
judges who possess that expertise to speak knowledgeably
and confidently about the variety during the discussion portion
of the judging. This scenario gives those who may not have much
(if any) experience judging that variety a better understanding
of what to expect. Take for example, Grüner Veltliner, a wine I

AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG 29

NEW OR

NOTEWORTHY
BY JIM RINK

W SET CELEBRATES 50 YEARS from 9-15 September 2019. Supported by notable names including
Olly Smith (UK), Terry Xu (China), Alyssa Vitrano aka GrapeFriend
 2019 marks 50 years since the Wine & Spirit Education Trust and Kelly Mitchell aka The Wine Siren (USA), the campaign will see
(WSET) was founded to provide wine and spirits education to WSET Approved Programme Providers in more than 30 countries
the industry. host over 100 fun, educational events to encourage interested wine
enthusiasts to learn more. From introductory ‘vine to wine’ classes
Now the world’s largest provider of wine and spirits qualifications to food and wine pairing sessions, the events will help consumers
for both professionals and enthusiasts, WSET will be celebrating make wiser choices when choosing a bottle and enable the trade
this landmark anniversary with a full schedule of activity to benefit from the increased likelihood of upselling.
throughout the year looking back, and forward, at the integral
role education plays in the wine and spirits trade. Looking ahead to the next 50 years, WSET is partnering with
IWSC, also celebrating its 50th anniversary in 2019, for a new
WSET Chief Executive Ian Harris, says, “Although it was a small initiative that will identify the next generation of leading wine and
organization in 1969, WSET always had ambitions to educate all spirits professionals and emphasize the importance of developing
those employed in the UK wine and spirits trade at the time. Since new talent through education and awards. Chosen by an illustrious
then, WSET has grown to become the world’s largest provider of panel of judges, ‘The Future 50’ will recognise 50 of the global
wine and spirits qualifications. industry’s up-and-coming talent at a range of levels from all reaches
of the trade. Nominations are due to open in February with winners
From profiles with early WSET Diploma graduates from around announced ahead of IWSC’s annual banquet in November 2019.
the world to a commemorative book which will be edited by David
Wrigley MW, including contributions from some of the industry’s
most famous names, WSET will be reflecting on how education
has contributed to the trade and the lives that power it over the
last 50 years.

To engage the growing population of wine consumers worldwide,
WSET will be launching the first ever global ‘Wine Education Week’

30 AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG

ORANGE WINE — THE NEW ROSÉ? YETI WINE
TUMBLER HELPS
You’ve heard of red, WINE KEEP
white, and rosé wines ITS COOL
before, but orange, like
bad hair or pumpkins, According to YETI, “Great minds
is not something you drink alike,” that’s why they made
normally associate with the Wine Tumbler 2 Pack - ideal
wine. Mainly produced for those who like to “sip back”
in Northeast Italy, and relax with good company by
Orange wine paired with food at Klinec in orange wine has ancient their side and a panoramic view
Goriška Brda, Slovenia. Photo by Irena Herak origins, first made about to boot. For added leisure, each tumbler’s highly insulated
interior retains your vino’s temperature far longer than the
courtesy of Klinec. average glass, that way you can savor your pour of choice for
as long as you like. Even more, they’re built with shatter-proof
6,000 years ago. But, as they say, everything old can be made exteriors so dropped glass is officially a thing of the past.
new again and orange wine is no different, as oenophiles are DURABLE NO-RUST- Stemless 18/8 steel cup made with
beginning to discover its unique qualities. kitchen-grade stainless steel, so they’re puncture- and rust-
resistant. Great drinkware for indoors and outdoors. Pairs
Often called the “new rosé,” orange wine is made, not from nicely with your beverage of choice: coffee, water, tea, ice
oranges, but white grapes that are left to ferment on the cream, wine, beer, cocktail, hot chocolate, soup or anything
skins — from a few hours to a few months — creating skin you wish to keep cold or hot.
contact and oxidation, which creates the “orange” hue, which Available at Amazon.com. Retail price, $49.99.
varies in color from golden yellow to straw-colored to bright
orange. This process gives the white wine more red wine
characteristics: more body, more tannins, etc.

Not all orange wines are made the same. Some are rich and
complex. Some have been described as “sour beer.” Best bet
is to hit your local wine shop and ask around.

TEN GRAPES TO KNOW

"With Catherine Fallis’s approach of ‘less is more,’ all you need
to begin your wine journey are ten grapes." — Kevin Zraly


It’s easy (or easier) to become a wine expert when you narrow the field down to
ten grapes. For the wine drinker who loves Pinot Noir but doesn’t know what to
try next, wants a French Chardonnay but isn’t sure what to look for on the bottle,
or needs a little support before they open the wine menu at lunch with a client,
Master Sommelier Catherine Fallis’s authoritative but inviting introduction to
wine is an indispensable guide.

Pinot Grigio, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Viognier, Pinot Noir, Sangiovese,
Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Zinfandel make the cut. The book (Ten
Grapes to Know) covers the basics of tasting (and why wines taste the way they do),
buying, and pairing wine. Fallis gives readers tricks to remember the difference
between the côtes of Burgundy, offers dozens of specific recommendations in
every price range, provides tips for talking to sommeliers, and shares memorable
tasting exercises. This book will help readers build their wine confidence whether
they’re looking for an inexpensive bottle for dinner at home or trying to impress
the in-laws. Available on Amazon.com. Retail price, $24.95.

AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG 31

32 AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG

ADVERTISE WITH US!

Advertise in the AWS Wine Journal Today! Who Reads the Journal?

When you advertise in the Wine Journal, you align your brand with The Wine Journal reaches a targeted
the oldest and largest consumer based wine appreciation organization market of sophisticated and
in North America. Our articles are fresh, creative, and educational. We
continually work with our writers to deliver articles that educate our knowledgeable wine consumers.
readers and keep them engaged in the wine industry. Issues include
articles on... 98% 60%
buy at least
• People, places, events, and trends in the wine industry of members drink ten cases of
• The art and science of winemaking for amateurs and professionals wine yearly
• Fascinating facts and information about wine and wine tasting wine every week
• Travel stories from romantic wineries to exotic locals
• Food, recipes, and complimentary wine pairings to please any palate 35% 60%

make wine travel to wine
regions at least
once per year

Contact us today to place your ad in the Wine Journal Ad Reservation & Remittance

David Falchek 888-297-9070 executive [email protected] American Wine Society
Attn: David Falchek

PO Box 889 Scranton, PA 18501
888-AWS-9070

fax: 570-344-4825
[email protected]

NEXT ISSUE OF Ad Submission &
Technical Questions
THE JOURNAL
Blue Flower Graphic Design
Roger Morris Attn: Briana Fedorko
examines 194 Summit Street

What Makes Edwardsville, PA 18704
a Wine 570-852-0744

Worth Drinking [email protected]

The American Wine Society Wine Journal
is the official journal of the American
Wine Society, a non-profit educational

organization dedicated to the education of
its members and the general public on all

aspects of wine.

The Wine Journal is a quarterly publication
and is sent to all AWS members, either
electronically or in print.

AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG 33

Join us for

Sunshine,wine, and
a great time

St. Pete Beach, Florida

Conference Registration begins soon

34 AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG

WJCP
Spring Session

The AWS is offering members two great
wine educational certification programs:
a spring, Year 1 class in the Wine Judge
Certification Program in Virginia and a Wine
& Spirit Education Trust Level 2 Wine Award
session as part of our national conference in
November. Whether you're an ambitious wine
aficionado or an established wine professional,
as an AWS member you'll relish these new
opportunities in 2019.

The AWS is pleased to offer a spring session
of WJCP Year 1 at the National Conference
Center in Leesburg, VA on Saturday, April 27,
2019. When combined with the regular fall
sessions, successful completion of this spring
program allows those starting the typically
three-year program to finish it in two years.

The cost of the Spring session is $285. WSET Level 2 Award in Wine
We’ve negotiated a special room rate for
WJCP students at the NCC--$129 per night, The AWS expands its educational offerings
which includes dinner Friday evening and by partnering with a leading wine
breakfast Saturday. The nearest airport, educational organization, the Wine & Spirit
Dulles, is just minutes away. To make your Education Trust, to offer WSET Level 2
room reservations, contact Dahlia Williams Award in Wine training and certification
at [email protected] at the 52nd National Conference in St. Pete Beach, Fl. on Oct. 31, 2019. The program is
or (703) 724-5891. part remote learning and one full day of hands-on instruction, learning and testing with
leading WSET instructor and WSET Approved Programme Provider Deborah Parker
But first make sure you register for this special Wong. WSET Level 1 credentials are NOT required to enroll in Level 2. Generally, someone
WJCP session as soon as possible by contacting with solid wine experience or, for example, an AWS Super Taster certificate holder, can
AWS Director of Education Aaron Mandel at successfully complete Level 2 Wine Award. (In 2019, WSET will separate spirit and wine
[email protected]. into distinct designations.)

Once registered, you’ll be able to participate The globally-recognized WSET designation is a great way for ambitious consumers to
in the lively and educational monthly on-line deepen their appreciation of wine, as well as a valuable qualification for anyone in the
study and tasting sessions – lead by wine judge wine business. We are offering this at the early-bird rate of $400, it will go up to $425 in
instructors – to prepare you to pass the exam. June 1. This price, which includes study materials, WSET on-line classroom access, day-
If you are successful, you can take WJCP Year long review and testing fee, is very competitive relative to fees charged by private wine
2 at the fall conference in St. Pete Beach, Fla. schools. This opportunity is available to AWS members only.
on Oct. 31, 2019. After that, you’ll be just one
year away from earning the CWJ initials. We expect this will be just the beginning of the collaboration between WSET and the
Good luck! AWS. If you have ever planned to pursue WSET you can start that journey now. For more
information about the program, email [email protected].
If you have questions about the program, please
reach out to [email protected].

AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG 35

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