Summer 2018 AWS Wine Journal

THE AMERICAN WINE SOCIETY

SUMMER 2018

BBQ & ZIN III
CHAMBOURCIN
THE INS & OUTS OF FERMENTATION
THE “G”WINE
THE GRUNER ASCENDANCY
A LYCHEE FROSE´
TERROIR

AMERICANWINESOCIE T Y.ORG WINE JOURNAL : SUMMER : 2018 | 1

JOIN US NOVEMBER 1 - 3, 2018
2018 AWS NATIONAL CONFERENCE
BUFFALO, NEW YORK

Questions?
Contact our National Conference Chair - Diane Meyer
[email protected] or 937.558.6559
americanwinesociety.org

2 | WINE JOURNAL : SUMMER : 2018 AMERICANWINESOCIE T Y.ORG

features

4 | Jim Rink 21 | Roger Morris 6
Editor’s Note The Grüner Ascendancy
10
According to Wikipedia, “Dorothy Park- Last September, I travelled to Vienna to take 14
er was an American poet, writer, critic, part in a new Vinexpo initiative called
and satirist, best known for her wit, “Explorer,” whose purpose it is to bring 21
wisecracks and eye for 20th-century selected global wine buyers to an under-ap-
urban foibles.” In other words, my kind preciated region or country to meet with its 25
of woman. In this issue, we focus on wine producers, just as the real Vinexpo does
three special grapes: Grüner Veltliner, on a worldwide scale at its huge, semi-annu- WINE JOURNAL : SUMMER : 2018 | 3
Chambourcin and Gewürtraminer. al expositions in Bordeaux and Hong Kong.

6 | Eric Miller 24 | Jim Rink
BBQ & Zin III Lychee Frosé —
stay frosty this summer
I was working my way back from Mexico last
winter when it occurred to me that I could Wine purists may want to look the other
turn a long drive into a passionate quest way, but there’s a chilling trend — frozen
if I resolved the Great American Asada rosé or rosé on ice. Leading the charge is
Quandry: Does Zinfandel kick ass with BBQ? Rosé Piscine, the original still French rosé
specifically made to drink over ice.
10 | J. Stephen Casscles
Chambourcin — a versatile red hybrid 25 | Timothy Post
Terroir – Reality, Myth, or Marketing?
Chambourcin, also known as J.S. 26-205, is
a versatile red wine grape variety that was The ability of wine to express terroir is
developed by Joannes Seyve (1900-1966) an oft-debated topic in wine enthusiast
probably sometime during the 1950s. circles. Those who promote the
existence of terroir in wine typically state
14 | Kristine Austin that it is an expression of the soils upon
The Ins and Outs of Fermentation which the grapes are grown, and/or the
attributes of the land.
I’ve been fortunate to work in many
different wineries in many different parts of 30 | Ellen Landis, CS, CSW
the world and it has been both confusing 21 Wines to Watch
and enlightening at the same time. Every
winemaker has a different prideful opinion In her continuing column, Ellen Landis
on the best way to ferment. selects 21 wines for you to enjoy with any
occasion or celebration.
18 | Michael Schafer, CSW
The “G”Wine 32 | Jim Rink
New or Noteworthy
One of the greatest wines on the planet
to pair with exotic or spicy food “don’t Traverse City is the small town with big
get no respect” on many wine lists. events in the northwest corner of the
A famous Alsatian winemaker once lower peninsula of Michigan.
characterized Gewürztraminer as “the
Liberace of the wine world.”

AMERICANWINESOCIE T Y.ORG

editor’s
LETTER JIM RINK VOLUME 50 NO. 2 · SUMMER 2018
Published by
“A hangover is the wrath of grapes.”
The American Wine Society,
— Dorothy Parker a non-profit corporation,

A ccording to Wikipedia, “Dorothy Parker was an American poet, writer, critic, PO Box 889, Scranton, PA 18501
and satirist, best known for her wit, wisecracks and eye for 20th-century Single copies $5.00
urban foibles.” In other words, my kind of woman. In this issue, we focus on
three special grapes: Grüner Veltliner, Chambourcin and Gewürtraminer. Whether Copyright© 2018 by AWS, Inc.
they are wrathful or not we’ll let Dorothy decide. Reproduction or use of the editorial
or pictorial content without written
On the travel front, Eric Miller recently found himself zigging and zagging
between the Rio Grand and the Atlantic Ocean to answer the simple permission is prohibited.
question: “Does Zinfandel kick a** with BBQ?” In the end, naturally, was Library of Congress Class Number:
Hedonistic Happiness.
TP544 A46A3 LC Card 76-647900
If you’re interested in the ins and outs of fermentation, our very own in-house Publisher
winemaker Kristine Austin has a little secret: there may not be one “best” way to
ferment, but with a little TLC yeast bacteria can be your best friend. David Falchek
Editor
Also in this issue, Roger Morris takes a look at an “under-appreciated” grape that Jim Rink
is still a rookie on the international wine scene: Grüner Veltliner. Stephen
Casscles examines a versatile red hybrid known as Chambourcin and Michael Contributing Writers
Schafer gives us the backstory on “the Liberace of the wine world,” AKA the Kristine Austin, J. Stephen Casscles,
“G” wine, AKA Gewürtraminer.
Ellen Landis, CS, CSW, Eric Miller,
Terroir – Reality, Myth, or Marketing? We continue to examine the topic of terroir, Roger Morris, Timothy Post, Jim Rink,
first introduced in the spring issue. In this article, among other things, Timothy
Post suggests the source of minerality in wine may be due to fatty acids on the Michael Schafer, CSW
rock’s surface.
Editorial Office
As always, we have “21 Wines to Watch” by Ellen Landis, CS, CSW. In this issue, Jim Rink
Ellen features wines from Austria, Australia, California, France, New Mexico,
Oregon, Spain and Washington. Bottle prices in this issue’s collection range 2800 S. Lake Leelanau Drive
from $12 to $55. Lake Leelanau, MI 49653

Stay thirsty, [email protected]
Unsolicited manuscripts or other
information will not be returned unless
accompanied by return postage.

Advertising Office
PO Box 889

Scranton, PA 18501
888-AWS-9070

(fax) 570.344.4825
executivedirector@
americanwinesociety.org

Creative | Production
404.925.2677

The Blue Guy, LLC
[email protected]

theblueguy.com

4 | WINE JOURNAL : SUMMER : 2018 AMERICANWINESOCIE T Y.ORG

The AWS is the largest consumer based wine education organization in the U.S. A non-profit Founder
group, the AWS is devoted to educating people on all aspects of wine. Its members include Konstantin Frank
wine novices, experts, grape growers, amateur and professional winemakers, chefs, wine
appreciators, wine educators, restaurateurs and anyone wanting to learn more about wine. AWS National Officers and Board of Directors

AWS ACTIVITIES President Treasurer Director of
Kristin Casler Kraft Tom Wallman Member Services
AWS Chapters: Local community groups of AWS members sponsor programs, usually
monthly. Activities include: tastings, dinners, lectures, picnics, winery tours, winemaking and Vice President Director of Jay Bileti
cooking demonstrations, viticulture conferences, amateur wine-judging events, and other Joe Broski Educational Services
wine-related social events. Guests are welcome and novices have nothing to fear. Chapters Executive Director
are self-supporting, so expect a nominal charge to attend a tasting, dinner, etc. If a local Secretary Aaron Mandel David Falchek
chapter does not exist in your area, the national office will be glad to assist in forming a Leanne Wheeler
chapter. All that is needed are a few interested wine lovers. Meeting can be informal and Director of Competitions
held in member’ homes or in other settings, such as restaurants and wineries. Joe Dautlick

AWS Regional Events: Organized by regional vice-presidents, include statewide wine 1967–1970 Past Presidents 2002
judging, contests, special tastings, regional wine conferences, regional picnics and dinners. Albert W. Laubengayer William H. Eisberg
1991
AWS National Conference: Held each fall—a two and one-half day national conference and 1971–1972 Stephen R. Kampers 2003
extravaganza of wine. Attendees become part of a tradition that has drawn wine-lovers, Robert A. Dickmann Frank C. Aquilino
winemakers and gastronomes together every November for over 45 years. Prominent 1992
American and international speakers conduct seminars and lectures on all aspects of wine 1973–1974 J. Randy Hurteau 2004
appreciation, wine production, grape growing and cuisine. Members experience fine food at Carl W. Damoth Willis L. Parker
connoisseur luncheons and dinners, tastings of hundreds of wines and royal treatment by 1993
the finest American hotels and resorts. The annual conference brings professionals, serious 1975–1976 Alcide L. Porrell 2005
amateurs and novices together to discover what is new in wine. Jerry S. Miller Tom Castronovo
1994
1977–78 George E. Wilson 2006
Kathryn Froelich Janice Cobett
1995
1979–1980 Kenneth P. Brewer 2007
Joseph P. Nardone Albert L. Guber, Jr.
1996
1981–1982 Raymond A. Hartung, Jr. 2008-2009
John M. Hasson Raymond A. Hartung, Jr.
1997
1983–1984 Eugene J. Spaziani 2010-2011
Michael A. Farren Willis L. Parker
1998
1985–1986 Gary C. Pavlis 2012-2014
Lewis H. France, Jr. Jane M. Duralia
1999
1987–1988 Gayle M. Darugh 2015-2016
Thomas C. Iezzi, Jr. Frank C. Aquilino
2000
1989–1990 Charles E. Hastings
Alton L. Long
2001
Pamela J. Davey

MEMBERBECOME A AWS MEMBER BENEFITS INCLUDE:

Join on-line at americanwinesociety.org or use this form • Participation in local chapter activities
• Participation in local, regional and national events
I want to join the AWS I want to give an AWS Gift Membership to: • Personalized membership card
• Professional Member Website Links and Promotions
Last Name First Name Middle Initial • AWS Bimonthly Newsletter
Street Address City/State/Zip Code • AWS vintage charts
Phone E-mail • Wine Judge Certification Program
• National Wine Tasting Project
This Gift Membership is from: • Winemaking competitions
• AWS Wine Competition Discounts
Last Name First Name Middle Initial • Discounts from wineries and other AWS partners
Street Address City/State/Zip Code
Phone E-mail Check Membership type:

Individual $49.00
Household (2 family members-same address) $62.00
Professional (includes plaque) $99.00
Lifetime $950.00
Student (full-time, ages 21-30) $25.00

NOTE: Payment must be made in U.S. dollars. For Canada and other non-US countries,
add $5 for postage.

Method of Payment:

Check/Money Order (payable to AWS)
Visa Mastercard
Complete and Mail With Your Payment To: American Express Discover

American Wine Society Account No. Security Code
PO Box 889 | Scranton, PA 18501
888-AWS-9070 | (fax) 570.344.4825 Expiration Date
E-mail: [email protected]
Cardholder’s Signature
AMERICANWINESOCIE T Y.ORG
WINE JOURNAL : SUMMER : 2018 | 5

was working my way back from Mexico last find great BBQ of all stripes. I limited myself My take on the term “BBQ” is that it
winter when it occurred to me that I could to ten days zigging and zagging between includes actions taken to grill, smoke meats
turn a long drive into a passionate quest the Rio Grand and the Atlantic Ocean and vegetables employing dry rubs, wet
consistently trying brisket, pork ribs and sauces and various kinds of wood. Feel free
Iif I resolved the Great American Asada pulled pork. to correct me or just throw in your two
Quandry: Does Zinfandel kick ass with cents on the subject. There are wildly
BBQ? You can wander the globe and

original side dish concepts and several
Did a lot of homework on the internet common threads among the favored
between stops at some of the fabled tasteless white bread, mac & cheese and
Pitmasters. Learned a lot attending the consistently delicious and excellent pairing
superb presentation by Zinmaster Joel of garlic pickle disks. There are some wildly
Peterson at the 2017 AWS conference. successful variations of things like slaw and
Found a few great wine shops en route beans. Never-the-less, it occurred to me
(loved the Austin Wine Merchant) and in there are some common traits in BBQ and
the end found Hedonistic Happiness. Zin that help with pairing decisions.

When you enter the hollowed haunts of THE THREE ZINS
BBQ you are usually in the homey haven
of tin-type and cheap fluorescent In my mind, there are now three distinct
American beer signs. The décor is age-old, styles of Zin. I didn’t expend my palate on
and a deliberate part of the stage set for the Blush category since virtually all are
your comfort. Most are not BYOB and do
not list Zinfandel on their beer lists! Imag-
ine how bad I felt hoisting my repurposed
Starbucks coffee cup to hide my wine fix!
It’s not unusual to belly up to a bar where
heavy tattoos are slicing up your order and
yelling over their shoulder for your sides.
Find your own picnic table.

6 | WINE JOURNAL : SUMMER : 2018 AMERICANWINESOCIE T Y.ORG

Stiles Switch BBQ in Austin, Texas

by Eric Miller

soft and sweet with minimal character that noticeable acidity, giving them a delicacy and smoke in the meats and they keep
does little for BBQ and vice versa. Number unlike Zins of yesteryear. Were I not in the sauce on the side. I only used the
two is the Voluptuous style and its less polite company I would describe them as house-made sauces and they seemed to
expensive little sisters, like Dancing Bull, light and not kicking ass. (I’m talking single have some tomato, ranging from On Fire
Marietta’s OVR and Three Wine Company’s vineyard Ridge, Ravenswood, Bedrock, to Prickly. Side dishes like beans go from
Contra County Field Blend. The big girls get Limerick Lane, Once & Future, Carlisle!) smoky pork to sweet and pungent. Pickle
in your face a split second after the cork is disks are all garlicky, usually crisp and
pulled. Joel Peterson described a third style, BBQ: MY TAKE required eating.
new to me as of a few years ago, as “Food
Friendly” in their role at the table. BBQ geeks will think it’s an oversimplifi- Kansas City appears to rely most on rubs
cation, but here’s one way to look at it:- and smoke, sauce on the side, like what I
The hallowed high-dollar Zins in his line-up Texas seems to favor some degree of rub generally found in Texas.
were lovely, complex and dark-fruited with

AMERICANWINESOCIE T Y.ORG WINE JOURNAL : SUMMER : 2018 | 7

Interior of Franklin BBQ, Austin, Texas

Memphis is a melting pot, using both wines with substantial alcohol. When the big 2015 Rafanelli Sonoma with just about
smoke and or massive amounts of thick, pairing is successful some of the herbs any BBQ that didn’t tear my tongue out. In
sweet sauce hiding a tomato heritage. and spices rise to threshold and be- Austin, my favorite BBQ was Styles Switch;
They put it on spaghetti and nachos too. come distinctive components as do the OMG the dinosaur-sized beef rib was like
individual fruit characteristics of Zin.
South Carolina seems to have an East/ When the flavors are toned down there
West divide. I must have been way East are even happy times with Voluptuous’
when I ran into industrial grade white little sisters. When Zins are full-bodied and
vinegar all over finely ground “pulled pork.” smooth, rather than sweet, I believe it is the
‘nuf said. I’ll go back to try out Western sweet-impression given by high alcohol, and
South Carolina. to some extent the low acidity, that allows
them to sooth and balance the palate in
Kentucky is considered to be influenced the face of pepper or coriander type heat.
by points south, east and west. My big At Lockhart Smokehouse, Bishop Arts
regret is not tasting its signature lamb ribs. District, Dallas, the mouth-filling 2015
Turley, Fredricks Vineyard, praise the
RESULTS Lord, paired perfectly with virtually
everything including the unique but
In this unscientific study, highly flavored slightly dry shoulder clod.
foods (e.g., smoke and some rubs) are
toned down by highly flavored fruity This observation was consistent pairing the

8 | WINE JOURNAL : SUMMER : 2018 AMERICANWINESOCIE T Y.ORG

Kobe beef, but the fabled Franklin was close sauce, though they had it
behind. Both had awesome beans. on the side. Stack gave me
Marietta’s 2015 Angeli kept up with the in- my first flight to heaven-on-
tense flavors but the slightly li ghter Frank a-plate with Burnt Ends and
Fa m i l y ( n o v i n e y a rd indicated) was 2015 Seghesio Sonoma.
wounded in combat. Q-39 had the creativity
to substitute a refreshing
Jim Neely’s Interstate in Memphis is beloved Asian-style slaw for pickles,
by locals and visitors alike but I expect they which paired wonderful-
mostly drink very sweet tea or beer because ly with a medium weight
everything, including the spaghetti and GN-5 Zinfandel.
nachos, comes submerged in a sweet and
spicy tomato based sauce. This is when the IN CONCLUSION
Food Friendly becomes the Fast Fading. I
experienced just that with the 2015 Biali
Black Chicken when a similar sauce was
donned on Louisville’s respected Frankfort Of course there is no final
Avenue Beer Depot and Smokehouse. (Me,
I preferred Memphis’ less saucy, high word. When I’m having
character, low maintenance Cottage Café)
highly flavored or spicy
Intense peppery heat or super-salty rubs
will eradicate most Zins. Pairing with this a food I am thrilled by a
wine with light fruit and prominent acidity
becomes a wallflower. I found that big- Big-Assed Zin, which is
assed sweet Zins like Rombauer, Sonoma,
and the low acid L.A.Cetto (Valle de occasionally substituted
Guadulupe, Mexico) seem coarse on their
own to become suave companions with with a light, fruity, acidic,
aggressively seasoned BBQ. It was logical
that Nini Negri Quadro, an lush style low alcohol, dry white like Franklin BBQ, Austin, Texas
Nebbiolo from the Piedmonte, sung with a young Sauvignon Blanc
Hog & Hominy’s (Memphis) spicy take on
BBQ sweetbreads. from Touraine, Loire Valley. Like most

In Kansas City there was a huge contrast be- things wine and food, personal taste is the
tween the hipster Q-39 vs Jack Stacks white
tablecloth-feel but both had their strengths final decider. Zin and BBQ is really just a fun
deep in smoky brisket and eager education-
al staff. Neither smothered their pitwork in way to have an argument. Did I mention

Petite Syrah?

About The Author

Eric Miller has been an east coast American winemaker for more than 40 years,
first at his family’s Benmarl Vineyards in New York State and then at Chaddsford
Winery in Pennsylvania, which he founded and co-owned from 1982 through
2012. He has spent all of his adult life growing, conceiving and producing
wines, learning and teaching about wine, traveling to wine regions around the
world, and, most importantly, tasting and drinking wine. He can be reached at
[email protected].

AMERICANWINESOCIE T Y.ORG WINE JOURNAL : SUMMER : 2018 | 9

by J. Stephen Casscles

C hambourcin, also known as J.S. 26-205, is a versatile red hybrid
a versatile red wine grape variety that was
developed by Joannes Seyve (1900-1966) other widely grown grape in the Loire Valley, it can make
probably sometime during the 1950s. It can quality big, rich reds as well as light fruity rosés.
make big Rhône or northern Italian-type Chambourcin grown in colder locations can have a
thin austere quality, so the site chosen needs to be warm
reds, Anjou-type rosés, Nouveau or fall enough to produce quality wines. The Mid-Hudson Valley
is about Chambourcin’s northern limit in the United States,
wines, and soft enjoyable table reds. It has not due to its winter tenderness, but because it needs a
long growing season to ripen properly.
been commercially available only since 1963 and is today
Chambourcin buds out late, but still produces a secondary
one of the most widely grown red French-American hybrids crop should a late spring frost hit the vineyard. The vine is
moderately vigorous, of standard size, and produces large to
in France. The name Chambourcin is derived from the town very large clusters of moderately loose bunches of big blue
to blue-black grapes. It is consistently productive, but needs
in which it was bred, Bougé Chambalud, France, only the cluster thinning to sustain the vigorousness of the vine and
to produce quality wines. The vine is sensitive to lime soils
name is reversed. and should not be planted in droughty places. It does much
better in deep, well-drained soils. It is only slightly less
winter hardy than Baco Noir and about as hardy as Chelois.
The grape is somewhat resistant to fungus diseases. It is
This grape is popular in the Loire Valley, Touraine, Nantes, resistant to botrytis and most bunch rots due to its thick
skin, loose-forming clusters, and late harvest date. Spray
Muscadet, and Savoie, France. In the United States, it is a applications should not be neglected, particularly for black
rot and downy mildew. It is sensitive to sulfur treatments.
widely grown in Michigan, Missouri, Pennsylvania, Virginia,
AMERICANWINESOCIE T Y.ORG
and most other Mid-Atlantic states.



Chambourcin is popular because, like Cabernet Franc, the

10 | WINE JOURNAL : SUMMER : 2018

Due to its airy leaf canopy and loose clusters, the vine readily The color of the wines are a deep crimson red, not like an
accepts fungus sprays and dries out quickly because its inky De Chaunac, Chancellor, or Cabernet Sauvignon. It ages
canopy allows for good air and sunlight circulation. The well and is color-fast; retaining deep crimson hues for seven
grape ripens late to very late, but its thick skins make it to ten years before beginning to change to red and
resistant to frost damage. brick-red hues. In fact, it can sometimes take too long to
reach its peak. I have had twenty-year old Chambourcins
The wine is superior to most other red French-American that still needed time to reach their peak and they still had
hybrids when made as a big aromatic red. It has solid those young, bright crimson colors. However, Chambourcin’s
tannin structure and a rich complex flavor. Chambourcin is high acid can clash with immature tannins if the grapes are
not overly grapey, herbaceous, or have hints of dank rubber under-ripe when picked. To expedite the aging process,
tire like some other red hybrids. Chambourcin blends well extended wood aging is required. Also, expediting the aging
with vinifera wines such as Cabernet Sauvignon process can be done by blending in very small amounts of
and Cabernet Franc because it softens them. It can be DeChaunac into a Chambourcin based wine. This is because
blended with French-American hybrids such as Baco Noir, DeChaunac wines tend to quickly brown, age, and fall apart;
Burdin, Chelois, or Maréchal Foch to help bolster their hence just a little bit of DeChaunac will add aging elements
tannin structure and increase complexity. If fermented on and brown hues to a young and robust Chambourcin.
the skins for extended periods of time, Chambourcin
extracts big complex vinifera flavors.

AMERICANWINESOCIE T Y.ORG WWI NIEN EJ OJUORUNRANLA L: S: US UMMMME RE R: :2 021081 8| |11 1

Some wine evaluators have described Chambourcin as not like a cloyingly sweet Pink Catawba, which I also do like,
similar to a full-bodied Bordeaux or a Rhône. I believe that but steely rosés that have a presence that is easily consumed
even with their high-acid front and middle, they have more during the summer. In the Loire Valley, much Chambourcin
of the elements of a soft, light Rhône, Cabernet Franc, or is made into locally consumed rosés. These high-acid
northern Italian red. This is because of their soft, but firm, raspberry-red to peach-colored wines are bright, with
tannin structure, flavor profile, subtle nuances, and elements of cranberries, lemons, watermelons, and Hawaiian
prominent black pepper aroma. These flavors overlay nicely Punch with a slate finish. Also, in the warmer Middle Atlantic
with the grape’s basic berry front, most noticeably states, Chambourcins can be made into quality Nouveaus
blackberries and chocolate. and soft red wines with the aid of carbonic maceration.

Chambourcins have a wide range of fruit flavors, including As a big red, Chambourcin has great intensity for a
cherry, black raspberry, black currants, blueberries, cooked French-American hybrid, with spicy and earthy
mulberries, and prunes, but they can be grapey. The earthy characteristics. While it is a grape that can handle the
and resinous body has elements of black olives, anise, retention of all its stems during maceration, it can also
cloves, black pepper, cinnamon, burnt toast, soy sauce, and benefit from malolactic fermentation. Chambourcin stems
flint. The wines can be aromatic with a bouquet tend to stay green longer than many other varieties, even
o f eucalyptus, spice, smoke, cigar box, tobacco, leather, when the grapes are ripe which can add bitter flavors. It is
mahogany, teakwood, and chocolate. They can also be recommended that about one-half of the stems should be
herbaceous with flavors of dill and green peppers. For all removed, particularly if they are unripe green stems.
of their flavor and body, Chambourcins tend to have muted
or closed noses, unless aged for seven to fifteen years. So, Overall, Chambourcin reminds me of a light Cabernet Franc,
in making Chambourcins, adding big-nosed varieties a thin Rhône, or an Anjou rosé. The wines are similar to
such as Baco, Chelois, or Maréchal Foch into blends is Cabernet Franc, but not as rich. However, they are quite
recommended. They are complex wines that offer much to good and better suited to those who like lighter bodied
the winemaker and the consumer alike. vinifera wines. Chambourcins lend themselves to blending
with Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Baco Noir, Bur-
They make very credible rosés, not unlike an Anjou rosé din, and Chelois. They have a bigger body than most other
(which is partially made from Chambourcin). These rosés are French-American hybrids, but they still do not have the hefty
body or tannin structure of most vinifera varieties. However,
12 | WINE JOURNAL : SUMMER : 2018 adding even 20 percent Chambourcin to other red hybrid
wines can really brighten them up and give them substance.
Chambourcin comes highly recommended both for its attri-
butes in the field and versatility in the cellar. Below is a short
biography of the creator of Chambourcin.

Joannes Seyve – The Father of Chambourcin

Joannes Seyve (1900-1966) took over his father’s nursery
business (Bertille Seyve, Sr. (1864-1939), while his older
brother Bertille Seyve, Jr. joined forces with his father-in-law

AMERICANWINESOCIE T Y.ORG

Victor Villard to establish a new nursery in the same town. Both Midi area of France. In addition to Chambourcin, Joannes
nurseries were located on the east bank of the Rhône River, hybridized other grapes, including a white grape, J.S. 23.416
in Bougé Chambalud, in the Rhône-Alpes area of France, just (B.S. 4828 (Le Colonel x Subereux) x Chancellor). This white
south of Lyon. While Joannes’ own grape-breeding program grape has very large clusters of amber to pink berries that are
was much less extensive that Bertille Seyve, Jr.’s, he is still oval and good for table use or wine. J.S.23.416 is the seed
credited with breeding more than fifty new grape varieties. parent of Traminette.
Monsieur Seyve, Jr. bred the famous and widely planted Seyval
Blanc, Villard Bland, Villard Noir, and S.V. 18-307. About The Author

Like his brother, Joannes extensively used S. 6468 (S.4614 x Stephen Casscles comes from a fruit growing family
S.3011) as the seed parent, but relied on Chancellor as one of based in the Mid-Hudson Valley since the 1870s.
his primary pollen parents. In addition, he used Seyve-Villard In 2015, he authored Grapes of the Hudson Valley and
crosses of Seyval Noir and S.V. 12-417, and crosses that had Other Cool Climate Regions of the United States and
Subereux (S.6905) as one of its parents. By far, Joannes’ most Canada. He has been a frequent guest speaker and
widely known grape is Chambourcin. Like his older brother, lecturer in the Hudson Valley and New York City area
Joannes used Seibel hybrids in his breeding work. He crossed and continues to write articles for wine/agricultural
Seibel hybrids to the exclusion of all others, except for a few industry journals, as well as speak on the radio about
crosses done with his father’s B.S. 4825 (Le Colonel x Subereux). grapes, winemaking, and horticultural topics. He can
be reached at [email protected].
Philip Wagner, a nurseryman and, along with his wife, Jocelyn,
owner of Boordy Vineyards in Riderwood, Maryland, and This article is based, in part, on Grapes of the Hudson Valley and Other Cool Climate
charter members of the American Wine Society, maintained Regions of the United States and Canada, (Coxsackie, NY: Flint Mine Press, 2015),
that Joannes was, like Galibert, chiefly interested in producing 139-140, 145-147.
hybrids for the warm and humid Mediterranean climate of the

AMERICANWINESOCIE T Y.ORG WINE JOURNAL : SUMMER : 2018 | 13

II’ve been fortunate to work in many nothing that constituted the huge mean that you’re making amazing wine
different wineries in many different parts of variation I saw in the fermentation and just because you do not have a fancy
the world and it has been both confusing practices. So in this article I decided to cellar doesn’t mean that you’re not making
and enlightening at the same time. Every discuss what I’ve learned about amazing wine. What can help you make
winemaker has a different prideful opinion fermentation practices. amazing wine is knowing the ins and outs
on the best way to ferment. I’m going to let of fermentation.
you guys in on a little secret… regardless Fermentation! What an amazing process!
of the methods and practices that were Thank you yeast and bacteria, we are in I used to think that it was the quality
employed; the end result was always your debt. We winemakers like to try and of the grapes that determined the quality

THE INS AND OUTS

unflawed, palatable wine. From the super take credit but in truth, we are just of the wine, but I’ve seen plenty of evidence
large wineries with no sorting to the small measly guides. I’ve seen fermentation in that when Mother Nature turns her back
boutique winery where each individual fancy temperature controlled stainless on you, you can still make great wine out
steel tanks; I’ve also seen fermentation in of not-so-great grapes. Making wine out of
berry was selected, delicious wine was the large food grade plastic containers great grapes is super easy and well, kind of
result. I expected much more variation in (technically water tanks). I’ve seen fermen- boring. As a winemaker you just have to
quality but didn’t really find it; at least tation in barrels, egg-shaped cement not screw it up. Making wine out of not-so-
vessels and plastic picking bins. I’m not great grapes…that takes experience and
saying that there aren’t differences, know-how. I worked a harvest in Oregon
however to say that generally one and Mother Nature made it rain the entire
produces better results than another, there picking season.
just isn’t abounding evidence support-
ing that. Those poor grapes, they absorbed the
water, the skins split and when the slop hit
And to be honest I was looking for it, I the sorting table we didn’t even know what
wanted it to be there. I wanted to know to do, the smell of acetic acid was over-
that the pricey stainless steel was worth whelming, and everything I had learned
every penny. I’ve been humbled more told me that this season was going to
than once. There are situations where one be a wash…but you know what, it turned
vessel might be better suited for your out just fine. In fact, critics rated the 2013
needs than another, but it shouldn’t be a vintage in the Willamette as one of the
decision premised on fancy is better. Just better vintages. At first I scoffed and shook
because you have a fancy cellar doesn’t my head and then I took a step back and

14 | WINE JOURNAL : SUMMER : 2018 AMERICANWINESOCIE T Y.ORG

thought, maybe it was my presupposition
that was wrong. The 2013 finished wines
were fantastic. I was just in disbelief
because everything I knew said that it
couldn’t possibly turn out that way.

Sure this fruit was less than ideal, so we
inoculated the next day. We had to
forego an extended cold soak but that’s

OF FERMENTATION
by Kristine Austin

what I mean about making situational So the purpose of doing a cold soak is to extracted in the higher alcohol solution
choices. We looked at the fruit and get more color. The cold is simply to delay of extended maceration. If you don’t have
knew that we should put the strong fermentation while the juice gets skin the ability to make the fermentation cold,
genetically engineered yeast culture in contact but without the solvent effects of a large addition of sulfur, say 100ppm or
to take over from the acetic acid bacteria. alcohol. Alcohol, acting as a solvent, more will delay fermentation as well. It
Since it was raining, the fruit wasn’t coming extracts not only the anthocyanins, will initially appear that your juice will be
in warm, so that was in our favor. If it which create color, but also tannins and “bleached” or lighter in color but don’t be
had been warmer we might not have other harsh compounds. The color com- alarmed, the color will come back in full
waited a day. pounds that are extracted during the force towards the end of fermentation.
juice stage are more stable than the ones

AMERICANWINESOCIE T Y.ORG WINE JOURNAL : SUMMER : 2018 | 15

Speaking of sulfur, the addition of sulfur to belief, besides the mildew and mold, a few water, a little cooler than the suggested
juice is completely up to you and what you leaves and stems don’t really seem to temperature of 37°C is allowable,
feel comfortable with. I’ve seen numbers impact the fermentation and sometimes you won’t be doing any real damage, but
from 0-120ppm. Again I think you should even add to it. over 37°C, well you’ll start killing cells. So
make the choice based on the integrity of once you have the water at the correct
the fruit; if there is any mold or mildew I Now for inoculations, I was helping a friend temperature, dump the entire amount
would increase the level of sulfur. I’ve seen the other day and realized how poor the of dried yeast in the water, and give
winemakers sprinkle sulfur in as powder. instructions are on yeast packages. it a GENTLE stir, just to get the yeast in
Research has shown that the initial stages touch with the water. Gentle is the
I’ve seen them dissolve it in juice. I’ve seen of hydration are actually a very delicate key here, apparently the yeast are in a
them dissolve it in water (my preferred stage in the life of the yeast. Sure you very delicate stage at this point and giving
method). We all have our preferences. But can sprinkle the package in the juice them a good whisk is damaging to them,
guess what, all of those methods produced (I don’t recommend this), but you risk a I’m not kidding. I suggest just a simple stir
the same result. Both mildew and mold problematic fermentation. The happier with a spoon; don’t worry if the yeast
(botrytis, not so much the fuzzy green your yeast is, the fewer issues you is initially lumpy or clumpy, stir once and
penicillin stuff ) can cause problems during encounter during fermentation. Here is let it sit for the suggested 20 minutes. The
fermentation and produce off flavors in what I suggest to create healthy, majority of the time, after those 20 minutes,
the resulting wine. You will save yourself happy yeast. those lumps are magically gone. After the
a headache if you try to remove it 20 minutes, gently stir again and then add
prior to fermentation. That brings up the Use the suggested amount of water but about 5% juice (so if you have 10 liters of
controversial topic of sorting. I’ve seen place this amount of water in a container water add 500ml of juice) from the tank you
experiments with sorting and its opposite, at least twice its size. The yeast are pretty are about to inoculate.
not sorting at all. And contrary to popular particular about the temperature of this

16 | WINE JOURNAL : SUMMER : 2018 AMERICANWINESOCIE T Y.ORG

What you are doing now is slowly to the tank, just pour the yeast starter into natural fermentation, yeast nutrition is very
preparing the yeast for a high sugar one spot, that’s right, one spot don’t important but I’ll have to breach that topic
environment. Adding the yeast directly to sprinkle it over the top or separate it into another time.
the tank without this process runs the risk different corners. Think of it this way, they
of shocking the yeast and damaging them. are entering into a weird new environment About The Author
After that first addition of juice, wait 5 and they find strength in numbers.
minutes and add another 500ml of juice. Kristine Austin could be considered
Then continue to do this every 2-3 minutes You may think that taking so much care into an over-educated migrant worker.
until you’ve doubled your starter (you may hydrating yeast and inoculating a tank is a With a degree in philosophy and a
need another bucket if it is foamy). This little over the top…but think of it this way; degree in enology she travels the
also helps to bring the temperature those little guys are the ones doing all your world making wine, working for
down t o b e w i t h i n 1 0 ° C o f t h e t a n k hard work. You need keep them healthy great winemakers, doing the hard
y o u a r e inoculating. Drastic change in and happy so that they can reproduce work and getting zero credit (but
temperature is also a way to shock and and consume all the sugar in the juice. You having very few responsibilities).
damage the yeast. During the addition of can have all the fancy tanks and devices Kristine can be reached at kristine.
juice stage, I would also pour the starter you want but it’s the knowledge of how [email protected]
from one bucket to another in order to to create and maintain your yeast culture
incorporate oxygen into the starter. Yeast that will make you a successful wine. Now,
love oxygen. Now when you add the yeast whether you are inoculating or doing a

AMERICANWINESOCIE T Y.ORG About The Author

Kristine Austin could be considered an over-educat-
ed migrant worker. With a degree in philosophy and
a degree in enology she travels the world making
wine, working for great winemakers, doing the hard
work and getting zero credit (but having very few
responsibilities). Kristine can be reached at
[email protected]

WINE JOURNAL : SUMMER : 2018 | 17

“G”THE WINE

by Michael Schafer, CSW

O ne of the greatest wines on the planet to pair Let’s nail down the pronunciation of this wine; it’s Ga VERTZ
with exotic or spicy food “don’t get no respect” trah mean er. Many folks shorten that to just Gavertz and
on many wine lists. A famous Alsatian wine- many wine lovers simply refer to it as “the G wine”! Whatever
maker once characterized Gewürztraminer as you call it, Gewürztraminer is both loved and hated. Distinctive
“the Liberace of the wine world.” Much easier aromas are a hallmark of this grape. Litchi, rose petals, exotic
spices and perfume immediately come to mind. On the palate
to enjoy than pronounce, this white wine it’s frequently full textured with low acidity. Stone fruit flavors
of mangoes, peaches and apricots are typical. The finish is
frequently elicits intense reactions from frequently spicy, with lingering flavors of ginger and cinnamon.
The wine is made in a range of styles, from bone-dry to
oenophiles and novice wine drinkers alike. Flamboyant, medium sweet to unctuous dessert wines.

opulent, exotic, outlandish, over-the-top. These are just a few

adjectives frequently used to describe Gewürztraminer.



18 | WINE JOURNAL : SUMMER : 2018 AMERICANWINESOCIE T Y.ORG

HISTORY Michigan all produce this fabled wine. While many wines
from the Old World and the New World are easy to compare
The origins of this heady wine are ancient. At the top of the and contrast, Gewürztraminer is an exception. Chardonnay
Italian “boot,” nestled between Austria and Switzerland, in the from Burgundy, say a Montrachet, is readily distinguishable
area known as Alto Aldige, is the village of Tramin. from a Chardonnay from the Napa Valley. Rieslings from the
Approximately two and a half hours drive northeast of Milan, Old World, particularly Germany, express their terroir from the
Italy, this scenic valley looks Germanic not Italian, with steep first whiff. New World versions are usually much more fruit-fo-
hillsides and steepled churches. cused, offering up aromas of peaches and pears. Like Rieslings,
Gewürztraminers range from bone dry to unctuous late
Alto Aldridge harvest dessert wines like Vendanges Tardives and Sélection de
Grains Nobles (Alsace).

Cultivated using the pergola system, the vines are grown STYLE
almost horizontally on the downhill side. The intertwined
canopy above becomes a three foot wide “shelf” of grapevines. The word style is usually used in describing fashion, whether
Grapes hang underneath, protected from hail, shaded from the clothes, hair, or architecture. It also applies to wine and
sun, providing a pretty picture as well as allowing substantial especially to Gewürztraminer. Do you enjoy a light, slightly
air flow to help prevent disease. aromatic wine with a crisp finish? Or do you prefer a version
that jumps out of the glass with aromas of roses, litchi and
Gewürz means both spicy and perfumed in German. Adding perfume with a long, lingering finish? Both versions are widely
Gewürz and traminer together creates the name of the grape available and knowing which styles pair with your favorite
and the wine as we know it. dishes is paramount when selecting your Gewürztraminer. It’s
also one of the determining factors for the winemaker. He or
Gewürztraminer is made all over the globe. From its roots she must decide what style of wine they are going to make.
in Italy where it’s called Traminer Aromatico, across the
mountains to Austria where it’s just Traminer, to the PAIRING
Rheinpfalz region of Germany, or in its most famous home of
Alsace, France, this wine has both fans and foes. Perhaps Gewürztraminer’s greatest virtue is its amazing ability
to pair with so many foods. From spicy stir-fry to stinky cheese,
In the New World, Gewürztraminer is found from New Zealand this is one flexible grape! We’ll begin with classic pairings and
to California and Washington State. Canada, New York and progress to more adventuresome matches, concluding with,
what else, dessert.
AMERICANWINESOCIE T Y.ORG
WINE JOURNAL : SUMMER : 2018 | 19

Alsace, France Game birds such as pheasant and ruffed grouse are comple-
mented by Gewürtz. The richness of foie gras is balanced by
Alsace is home to the most powerful Gewürztraminers in the the luxury of a full-bodied Gewürztraminer.
world. Some of these wines are so “big” they have the body
of a red Bordeaux. Seriously. The tannins aren’t there but the A frequent challenge is finding wine to pair with your favorite
body and mouthfeel is heavy and weighty. Full-flavored ripe spicy dishes. For Tandoori chicken or chicken tikka, an off-dry
or “stinky” cheeses are a match made in heaven for these big version is perfect. Off-dry styles are also natural pairings with
wines. Epoisses from Burgundy, France, the classic cow’s milk savory dishes containing fruits found in salsas and chutneys.
cheese has been made in the small town of Epoisses since the Curries laced with cumin, coriander and ginger work well with
late 1700s. Another time-tested match is Muenster cheese with semi-dry or slightly sweet examples because the wine itself is
a dry Gewürztraminer. This is not the Munster you’ll find at the so spicy and floral. Pad Thai and the Laotian/Thai dish Larb na
supermarket with the orange rind that is mild as a spring rain are complemented by an off-dry version of Gewürz.
shower! This is the strong, penetrating soft cheese from the
village of Munster in the Vosges Mountains. Other wonderful Spicier foods like Hunan chicken or Kung Pao chicken are
“fragrant” soft cheese choices are Maroilles or Livarot. complemented by a Gewürztraminer with a bit more residual
sugar to balance and soften the heat of the peppers in the dish.
Keeping with traditional pairings, the Onion Tart or Tarte
Flambée is a classic. Made with onions, cheese and bacon, When Gewürz is made in a late harvest or dessert style, it
this Alsatian “pizza” is perfect match with a semi-dry Gewürz. marries beautifully with fruit-based desserts, such as flans and
Smoked salmon is yet another scrumptious match for our cobblers. Pastries featuring peaches, pears, mangoes are all
spicy friend. appropriate with a sweeter, more intense wine. Remember,
when pairing wines with desserts, the wine must be sweeter
Raclette cheese is an excellent partner for Gewürz. Crusty than the dessert!
bread dipped into slightly heated Raclette with a glass of
off-dry Gewürz is, to use a technical viticultural term, yummy. Enjoy this exotic and fascinating wine soon! Slainte!

Classic Alsatian dishes such as Choucroute Garnie are natural About The Author
matches for Gewürztraminer. Baeckeoffe (baker’s oven) made
with pork, lamb, beef and sliced potatoes, slow cooked all day, Michael Schafer, Esq. is a Sommelier, Certified Special-
is another perfect partner for Gewürz. ist of Wine and Certified Specialist of Spirits based in
Michigan. He is a Professor at Oakland Community
20 | WINE JOURNAL : SUMMER : 2018 College and at Baker College. Michael teaches
consumer classes about wine and spirits, as well as
conducting team training for restaurants and clubs. He
frequently speaks at a variety of events. You can reach
Michael at [email protected], on Facebook at
winecounselor and Twitter @WineCounselor.

AMERICANWINESOCIE T Y.ORG

The GrünerbyRogerMorris
AscendancyLots of grapes can make good wines.

Only a few can make great ones.
Wine #3 was indeed a Burgundy – a 2015
Last September, I traveled to Vienna to take Bâtard-Montrachet from Bachelet-Monnot –
part in a new Vinexpo initiative called but wine #1 was not a Burgundy. It was a
“Explorer,” whose purpose it is to bring 2015 Grüner Veltliner by Jurtchitsch that
selected global wine buyers to an came from the “ried,” or single vineyard,
under-appreciated region or country to called Lamm in Kamptal just west of Vienna
meet with its wine producers, just as the along the Danube.
real Vinexpo does on a worldwide scale
at its huge, semi-annual expositions in I was stunned, and so were most of the
Bordeaux and Hong Kong. other tasters from Germany to Japan. At
the dais, co-host Willi Klinger, director of
The final day of the meeting featured the Austrian Wine Market Board, broke
a double blind tasting of unknown into a sly grin. “I couldn’t let all of you go
Austrian wines mixed in with similar home thinking that Grüner was only an
unknown wines from other countries. We entry-level wine.”
were into the third flight of three wines,
and I was struck by the rich fruit, minerality Like many Americans who had never before
and tart finish of wine #1. I immediately visited Austrian vineyards and had mostly
thought, “White Burgundy, possibly a full- tasted less-expensive Grüners in American
er Chablis or even a cru from Côte d’Or.” restaurants and wine bars or from bottles
Wine #3, I thought, was similar in taste sent me for tasting, that was mostly what
and texture and could also be a Burgundy. I thought when I arrived in Vienna. But a
But, of the two, I preferred the impact of series of tastings in Vienna and a quick trip
the first wine. to the Kamptal region a couple days earlier
should have prepared me to be surprised.

AMERICANWINESOCIE T Y.ORG WINE JOURNAL : SUMMER : 2018 | 21

Senftenberg, Austria Earlier in my visit, I talked with several wine and Grüners from these selected single
producers from throughout Austria during vineyards or rieds are called riedenwines,
While many Austrian winemakers still hold a walk-around tasting. One of them was and the name of vineyard proceeded by
a Germanic allegiance to Riesling over all Barbara Koller, export director of Schloss the word ried is featured on the wine labels.
other white grapes, and while many are Gobelsberg, a much-honored grower in
excited about the results they are getting Kamptal, which is imported in the U.S. by Later the same day, I visited the Sepp
from red wines made with the Blaufränk- Michael Skurnik. Over a sip or two of 2015 Moser winery in Kremstal, located where
isch grape, it is Grüner Veltliner that is the Gobelsberg Reid “Lamm” Grüner Veltliner, the northern hills and the southern hills
reigning queen of Austrian grapes in quan- Koller explained that the region is in the pinch tightly on either side of the Danube.
tity and some would argue in quality as process of developing a cru system based The estate is now being run by Nikolaus
well. Writing in her “Oxford Companion to on single vineyard and already is labeling Moser. If the Moser name sounds familiar
Wine,” Jancis Robinson says, “The wine is its wines accordingly. to some vineyardists, it’s because Moser’s
typically dry, peppery, or spicy and with grandfather, Lenz Moser, in the 1950s
time in the bottle can start to taste posi- Indeed, over the past 20 years, growers in invented a trellising system of wide rows
tively Burgundian.” the adjacent areas of Kamptal, Kremstal, and higher vine trunks that bears his name
Traisental and Wagram – mostly along and is still widely in use around the world.
A natural offspring of the Traminer and St. smaller river valleys that flow directly into Most of the Moser’s vineyards are terraced
Georgen varieties, Grüner is planted on the Danube – have been making an on deep layers of loess –“up to 30 meters in
35,640 acres of vineyards, which account exhaustive study of soils and wine tastings, some places,” Moser says – intermixed with
for about 31 percent of total Austrian acre- and in 2010 issued a classification system calcareous and glacial soils coming from
age for red and white grapes combined. It in which 53 vineyards were designated the Alps to the west and to the south. Since
is widely planted, sometimes next to blocks as “erste lage,” the top level. All are located 2005, Sepp Moser has been biodynamic. In
of Riesling, in the Niederösterreich or Lower on the north side of the river, except for the cellar, whites undergo spontaneous
Austria in the country’s northern region just Traisental. The Wachau region, just west fermentation and mainly tank aging, with
west of Vienna and not far from the Czech of the others and also on the north side, some barrel use in certain crus. Moser is
Republic border. And it is generally agreed may in time be classified as well. Rieslings distributed in the U.S. by Integrity Wines, Oz
that the majority of the best Grüners are Wine Company and Williams Corner Wine.
made here.
Ageability is always a factor in determining
great wines, and hence determining great
grapes, and two Sepp Moser wines tast-
ed demonstrate that capability. We were
served first the 2016 Grüner from the Sch-
nabel vineyard near Krems, a cru, followed
by the 2005 from the same plot. The 2016
was very floral, somewhat soft on the
palate but with great persistence. It was
unfiltered, having aged in large barrels. The
2005 had a slightly oily (as with Riesling)
nose but was delicious with rich, deep fruit

22 | WINE JOURNAL : SUMMER : 2018 AMERICANWINESOCIE T Y.ORG

flavors and good acidity. It had matured has produced great wines in Austria and
gracefully without becoming tired or occasionally nearby. But it will be years,
unduly oxidized. perhaps decades, before Austrian Grüner
is widely recognized by judges and by
Wine experts often are in general collectors who must pay the price for them
agreement in what constitutes a great as uniformly a producer of great wines.
wine – complexity of taste, great structure, More challenging will be its ability to make
ageability, flexibility in styles produced. great wines outside of Middle Europe. It is
Classic grapes have another qualification to now being widely planted in the United
meet in addition to being able to produce States, especially in the East, but the out-
these great wines – the ability to produce come there has been mainly to produce
great wines outside of their home region, wine-by-the-glass quality – although I can
so they are not just a great regional grape. think of a couple of exceptions.

Among white grapes, Chardonnay, While Grüner has been around a long time
Sauvignon Blanc and Riesling are by regionally, it is still a youngster
general consensus considered classics, i n t e r n a tionally. In that sense, to use one

About The Author

producing great wines in many regions in of those dreaded sports analogies, it is Roger Morris is a Pennsylvania-
the Old and New Worlds. Other grapes, still an impressive rookie, full of promise based writer who contributes
including Gewürztraminer and Chenin that may fade away as interest in it wanes. articles to several publications,
Blanc, are more arguable. They may Or Grüner Veltliner may become a classic including Wine Enthusiast, Town &
occasionally produce great wines, but less grape, one universally recognized as pro- Country, The Drinks Business, Beverage
regularly and less universally. ducing great wines around the globe. Media and TheDailyMeal.com.

At present, Grüner falls into the latter Roger can be reached at:
classification. Without doubt, it can and [email protected].

AMERICANWINESOCIE T Y.ORG WINE JOURNAL : SUMMER : 2018 | 23

LYCHEE
FROSÉ
stay frosty this summer by Jim Rink

Wine purists may want to look the other way, but For this summer, Rosé Piscine is back with a brand new
invention - the summer cocktail Lychee Frosé Piscine. The
there’s a chilling trend — frozen rosé or rosé on cocktail features fresh fruit notes as it mixes lychee, grenadine
ice. Leading the charge is Rosé Piscine, the original
still French rosé specifically made to drink over ice. As Rosé syrup and ice. For more information on Rosé Piscine and its

Piscine is served on the rocks, “piscine-style,” there is no need availability, visit: www.rosepiscine.com. The recipe for Lychee

to pre-chill the bottle. The trademark blue and white-striped Frosé Piscine is shown below:

bottle is encased in a protective sleeve to safely serve poolside

or at the beach. LYCHEE FROSÉ PISCINE


Rosé Piscine actually arrived on the scene last summer, where

it was launched in Brazil and France and specifically targeted to Ingredients & Tools:
Millennials, who will apparently try anything once. Today, the 1 Bottle of Rosé Piscine
brand sells several million bottles a year in those two markets. 1 Canned Lychee
1 Grenadine Syrup (optional)
The idea for for Rosé Piscine was hatched when Jacques Ice Cube Molds
Tranier, a French wine executive on holiday in St. Tropez,

observed beachgoers ordering rosé in cognac glasses over ice, Instructions:
which some waiters called rosé piscine. He ordered one and 1. Pour Rosé Piscine into ice cube molds
found that it was refreshing, but as the ice melted it tasted 2. Freeze for 6 hours
watery and lacked the typical rosé acidity and crispness. 3. Place ice cubes in blender,
4. Add 1 cup of Lychee syrup
Upon returning to the winery, Mr. Tranier and his winemaker 5. Add 1 tsp of grenadine
took it upon themselves to create the perfect rosé to be served 6. Blend, decorate with red berries, and enjoy!
over ice, by targeting a specific and proprietary acidity, residual

sugar content, mouth feel and appearance; Rosé Piscine is now

a trademarked name of the company.

24 | WINE JOURNAL : SUMMER : 2018 AMERICANWINESOCIE T Y.ORG

T he ability of wine complexity of these factors, and the Despite the negative connotation of
to express terroir is an subjective nature of assessing wine terroir from long ago, some wine
oft-debated topic in wine aromas and flavors, it is not surprising that aficionados came to consider some
enthusiast circles. Those understanding and finding proof of terroir level of earthy-farm odors and flavors
who promote the exis- remain elusive. as positive. Over time, the meaning of
tence of terroir in wine terroir evolved into a positive representa-

typically state that it is HISTORY tion of the unique positive characteristics

an expression of the soils attributed to local soils and local growing

upon which the grapes are grown, and/or The origins of terroir go back to the 8th conditions. Old World vintners began to

the attributes of the land. Others adhere century France where monks studied describe terroir as the relationship

to the belief that terroir is more about organoleptically-detectable differences in between soils (and to an extent geogra-

marketing regional wines than scientific wines. They attributed these differences phy) and wine aroma and flavors. To this

reality. to specific characteristics derived from day, many consider soil characteristics to

different parcels of land that were used to be the primar y driving factor that

If terroir is real, then terroir is important produce the wine. History indicates that influences terroir.

since it relates the sensory attributes of the meaning of terroir was derived from

wine to the soils and environmental attempts to describe the farm-like The glaring omissions in this historic

conditions in which the grapes are grown. aroma and flavor of manure associated definition of terroir are the failure to

So, what is really known about terroir?

TERROIR
with some wines at that time. The use of include grape variety and clone, as well as

Reality, Myth, or Marketing?
by Timothy Post
Scientifically, terroir is difficult to study descriptions such as ‘repulsive’ and
because so many factors can influence ‘unpleasant’ indicate that these aromas the winemaker’s skills, which are consid-
the characteristics and expression of wine. and flavors were not considered in a posi- ered by most vintners to be the primary
The complexity of interactions between tive context (Matthews 2014). Thus, terroir drivers of wine expression. The choice
climate, grape variety and clone, geogra- may have originally been a description of of wine styles, wine-making methods,
phy, vineyard management, microbes aromas and flavors attributable to choice of yeast, and decisions on
in vineyards and in wineries, soils, and the microbial (perhaps Brettanomyces) spoil- whether to age in oak can result in
influence of the winemaker in style and age in wine that was likely due to poor considerable differences in the expression
method - all of these factors can winery sanitation. Of course, back then of wines made from the same grape.
synergistically combine to influence they didn’t have the technology to look
characteristics of wine. Considering the for microorganisms, that came much later. Following the phylloxera epidemic that
began in the 1860s and killed grapevines

AMERICANWINESOCIE T Y.ORG WINE JOURNAL : SUMMER : 2018 | 25

across Europe, European vineyards had wines, France once again used terroir to primary factors in the creation of terroir.
to be replanted with grapevines and/or differentiate and promote French wines. Wine bottle labels often contain prose
rootstock from America (or other non- The increased competition from the waxing poetic about how the soils in their
affected co u n t r i e s ) . T h i s c a u s e d New World had to be countered, thus vineyard impart unique characteristics to
a dilemma for European (in particular terroir became an expression of nostal- their wines. So, do soils contribute to the
French) wine producers. Since the gia and nationalistic pride. Over time, creation of terroir?
replanted vines had their origins in North the meaning of terroir took on an almost
America, or other non-European mystical ideology, and became part of the As evidence of terroir, some vintners and
countries, it was difficult to convince fabric of wine culture. Some vineyards, wine enthusiasts will point to the results
consumers that European wines were wineries, and wine enthusiasts began to of blind taste tests completed by experi-
different or better than wines produced use the term terroir to refer to a more enced judges that can sometimes identify
in the countries that supplied the vines. holistic vision of what goes into the a wine by region based on aroma and
They needed a marketing program to production of wine, not just what goes on flavor alone. However, the ability to
promote the distinctive characteristics below the surface of the vineyard. identify wines by their geographic origin
that vineyard s o i l s a n d g r o w i n g does not mean that such distinctness is
conditions imparted to their wines. The There are many factors, including soils derived from soil minerals or composition.
result was the rebirth of terroir to define and water availability, that can directly or For example, the aroma and flavor of min-
French wines as distinctive and high- indirectly impact grape quality, and there- erality in wine is often described as part
quality wines that had uniqueness of fore wine quality. However, in analyzing of the expression of soil-influenced terroir.
place, and soil-derived terroir. statements about any potential factors
that may be expressed as terroir, it is Specific terroirs, such as those on high
In 1935, France introduced the Appella- important to draw a distinction between calcium (chalk) soils in France, are said
tion d’Origine Controlee (AOC) system factors that influence grape quality, and to present in part as ‘minerality’ in wine.
which set winemaking standards those that might produce a soil-derived Vintners often allude to the origins of this
to elevate the quality of French wines, terroir. The following discusses the perceived minerality in wine being from
and to promote terroir as a symbol of factors that are most often linked to minerals in the soils being taken up by
the uniqueness and mystique of French terroir (soils, climate and geography, vines. However, research results indicate
wines in a growing international and viticultural area). that minerals taken up from the soil do
marketplace. Time has shown that a not directly provide a detectable sensory
romantic conception of terroir can appeal SOILS expression in wine. Most elemental
to those who purchase wine, and the AOC minerals found in soil have no flavor, and
system proved to be a marketing success Soil charac ter istics have long been are present in such minute amounts
both as an expression of terroir and as a considered by many to be of particular that they are well below the
symbol of quality and status. importance in creating terroir. Many detection threshold.
vintners espouse the belief that soils
After the judgement in Paris, when Amer- (depth, chemical composition, physical The apparent source of minerality in wine
ican wines were rated higher than French structure, and drainage) are one of the may have been found some years back.

W2 6I N E| WJ OI NUER NJ OAUL R:NSAULM:MSEURM:M2E0R1 8: |2 02168 AMERICANWINESOCIE T Y.ORG

If you have ever walked on or near a slate The bottom line is science-based research have found no correlation, partly due to
or granite surface after a summer rain you has not been able to find a consistent or the complications of scale. Most viticul-
have probably smelled the mineral-like meaningful correlation between general tural areas encompass relatively large
aroma rising from the rock surfaces and or specific soil characteristics and unique geographic areas that include a tremen-
ascribed the odor to the mineral compo- chemical composition, or aromas and dous variety of conditions (, soils,
sition of the wet rocks. However, research flavors, in wines. Therefore, the evidence topography). Therefore, there is too much
by Bear and Kranzs in 1965 showed that does not support the concept that soil char- within-viticultural area variability in
these mineral-like odors are in reality acteristics can produce a unique terroir. conditions to result in a shared terroir.
caused by fatty acids on rocks surfaces, Perhaps the viticultural area designa-
not the mineral composition of the rocks CLIMATE/GEOGRAPHY tion that comes the closest to a scale
themselves. Whether the fatty acids that might exhibit unique terroir are the
themselves produced the aromas when The impacts of climate and geography are grand crus in Burgundy, France. These
wet, or there were microbes involved in closely related and can have a significant grand crus require by law that all grapes
creating the odors was not determined. impact on wine quality and regional style. used be from fields that may cover only
Grapes grown in warm climates can reach a few acres. Whether their terroir is real
Research has shown that within a complete ripeness and will exhibit differ- or imagined, the wines sold from these
uniformly managed vineyard block ent characteristics than the same grape grand crus can sell for one hundred
grape ripening and quality can exhibit grown in a cool environment where dollars or more a bottle. With that kind
significant spatial variation to differences grapes may not reach complete ripeness. of economic incentive, it is not surprising
in topography and/or soil types. Portions If the climate does not allow for full that the vineyards and wineries within
of a vineyard that support less mature ripening, the grapes (and wine) may have these grand crus promote the concept of
grapes may produce significantly vegetative flavors, high acidity, and low their vineyard’s unique terroir.
lower quality grapes. Such disparate alcohol le vels. Climate and meso -
within-vineyard soils would seem to climate can also have a significant effect In summation, soils and viticultural
suggest that each soil would produce its on the grape species, varieties, and clones designation do not appear to be signif-
own terroir, rather than a singular terroir. that are best suited to be grown. Differ- icant contributors to terroir. Climate/
The substantial within-vineyard variability ent grape varieties and clones have geography can affect wine style, and may
of grape quality and ripeness does raise different heat requirements (growing contribute to differences in wine expres-
an interesting question. If there is degree days) and are planted in different sion that might be considered as part of
considerable variation in soils or regions to optimize the growing season terroir. There are other factors that are
topography within a vineyard, which of length. Vineyards select varieties, often not mentioned as contributing to
the soils or elevations does the vineyard’s cultivars and clones that have traits that wine expression specific to terroir, includ-
terroir represent? best match the climate, soils, and ing grape variety (and cultivar or clone),
water availability of the vineyard. and microbial communities.
Since many traditional European regions Climate, and geography can have major
that ascribe particular importance to impac ts on wine quality, style, and WINE JOURNAL : SUMMER : 2018 | 27
terroir are designated and evaluated on a sensorial expression. Thus, grapes grown
regional scale, how can there be a similar in different climates and geography might
terroir when there is such a wide diversity express organoleptic differences.
of soil and land characteristics between
vineyards, or even within a vineyard? VITICULTURAL AREA/
Thus, in analyzing statements about the DESIGNATION
influence of soils on wine characteristics,
it is important to draw a distinction Research efforts to find a link between
between soil-derived terroir, and soil-in- viticultural area designation and terroir
fluenced grape quality.

AMERICANWINESOCIE T Y.ORG

GRAPE VARIETY fermentative organisms play a role not able to match the wines with the
in fermentation and can significantly af- characteristics described by wine critics at
It is well known that the variety of grape fect the chemical compounds produced. any more than a random rate. Further, the
will have a significant effect on the organ- Studies of ‘wild’ (non-innoculated) yeast presence o f t e r r o i r h a s g e n e r a l l y
oleptic properties of wine. Most grapes fermentations found that wild yeasts can not proven predictive of the wine’s
express distinct varietal characteristics that significantly influence the organoleptic quality or consumer preference. This isn’t
are readily identifiable by sensory evalu- properties of wine. Studies also showed surprising since organoleptic perception
ation. Varietal expression is probably the that the presence of ‘wild’ yeast added of wine aroma and flavors is subjective,
most important factor in how a wine is complexity to the wine, even if commer- and thresholds of detection are individ-
expressed, and could contribute to terroir. cial yeast was used to complete fermen- ual-specific. The American Wine Society’s
tation. During fermentation, each yeast Judge Training program, and similar
MICROBIAL COMMUNITIES species and strain utilize different efforts to provide education and training,
metabolic processes which produce dif- are important since they strive to increase
Advances in scientific techniques have al- ferent chemical compounds. The different consistency in wine analysis, which will
lowed faster and simpler identification of metabolic processes of the yeasts present, progress the ability to uniformly assess
species and strains of microbes. This has and interactions between types, appears wine characteristics.
led to a wealth of new information about to play a key role in production of differ-
the microbial community present on ential sensorially-detectable metabolites CONCLUSION
grapes and in wineries, and their poten- which may express as unique terroir.
tial influences in winemaking. Research Winemaking is an enormous industry
has shown that the surface of grapes can worth many billions of dollars. In 2016:
harbor a much larger and more diverse
microbial community (over 10 different 1. Wine shipments to the U.S. from all
genera of bacteria and yeast have been
found) than previously realized. Research production sources grew to 399 million
also found that geographic and site- cases, with an estimated retail value of
specific climatic conditions can deter- nearly $60 billion.
mine the microbial communities on
grape surfaces and result in regionally 2. France exported $9.4 billion worth
specific microbial assemblages. of wine.

Many of the microbes found on grapes 3. The U.S. was the world’s largest
and on winery equipment and surfaces wine market by volume.
are fermentative organisms. These
WINE JUDGING/ASSESSMENT With that kind of economic value,
28 | WINE JOURNAL : SUMMER : 2018 countries have every incentive to market
The majority of sensorially-based studies their wines as having unique qualities that
show that most people, even experienced set them apart.
judges, cannot reliably and consistent-
ly agree on what defines a high-quality Verifying that wines can express terroir is
wine, nor define the organoleptic qual- complicated by the lack of a universal
ities that specific terroirs might exhibit. understanding of what terroir actually
Many studies have found that judges not represents, the ex tremely complex
only disagree but are also inconsistent: winemaking process, and the subjective
often, a judge cannot repeat their scores nature of organoleptic wine analysis. The
on identical wines. Wine consumers are long-held belief that terroir is the result

AMERICANWINESOCIE T Y.ORG

of specific soils, or soil characteristics, has Bear IJ, Kranzs ZH. 1965. Fatty acids from exposed Sumby KM, Grbin PR, Jiranek V. 2010. Microbial
been largely debunked. The belief that rock surfaces. Australian Journal of Chemistry. modulation of aromatic esters in wine: current
terroir is partially definable by viticultural 18:915-17. knowledge and future prospects. Food Chemistry.
area designation is likewise implausible. 121:1–16.
The effects of climate/geographic area, Bokulich NA, Thorngate JH, Richardson PM, Mills
grape variety (and clone), vine manage- DA. 2013. Microbial biogeography of wine grapes Swiegers JH, Bartowsky EJ, Henschke PA, Pretorius
ment, and the actions of the winemaker, is conditioned by cultivar, vintage, and climate. IS. 2005. Yeast and bacterial modulation of wine
can all impact wine characteristics, and Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences aroma and flavor. Australian Journal of Grape Wine
may contribute to terroir. Therefore, any of the United States of America. November 15:139– Research. 11(2):139-173.
definition of terroir must include the 148; [Accessed August 18, 2017]. www.pnas.org/
viticultural and enological sciences. content/111/1/E139.full.pdf. Trubek AB. 2008. The taste of place: a cultural
journey into terroir. Berkeley (CA): University of
Recent studies appear to have found a Garijo P, Lopez R, Santamaria P, Ocon E, Olarte C, Sanz California Press.
probable link between site-specif- S, Gutierrez AR. 2011. Presence of enological
ic microbial assemblages present on microorganisms in the grapes and the air of a Van Leeuwen C, Friant P, Chone X, Tregoat O,
grapes and in wineries and wine expres- vineyard during the ripening period. European Food Koundouras S, Dubourdieu D. 2004. Influence of
sion. These microbial communities can Research and Technology. 233(2):359–365. climate, soil, and cultivar on terroir. American Journal
significantly influence fermentation and of Enology and Viticulture. 55(3):207-
result in unique aromas and flavors in Gilbert JA, van der Lelie D, Zarraonaindia I. 2014.
wine. Therefore, microbial communities Microbial terroir for wine grapes. Proceedings of Weil RL. 2007. Debunking critics’ wine words: can
found on grapes and in wineries have the National Academy of Sciences of the United amateurs distinguish the smell of asphalt from
the potential to result in unique flavors States of America. 11(1):5-6. www.pnas.org/ the taste of cherries? Journal of Wine Economics.
and aromas that could form the basis of content/111/1/5.full. 2(2):136–144.
terroir. Therefore, any definition of terroir
must also include the microbial Goldstein R, Almenberg J, Dreber A, Emerson JW, White R, Balachandra L, Edis R, Chen D. 2007. The soil
populations present. Herschkowitsch A, Katz J. 2008. Do more expensive component of terroir. Journal International des
wines taste better? Evidence from a large sample of Sciences de la Vigne et du Vin. 41(1):9-18.
So, is terroir real? As discussed above, blind tastings. Journal of Wine Economics. 3(1):1-9.
there is evidence that some site-specif- About The Author
ic factors can result in unique chemical Hodgson RT. 2008. An examination of judge
composition in wine. These differences reliability at a major U.S. wine competition. Journal Tim Post has worked for the New
in chemical composition can express of Wine Economics. 3(2):105-113. York State Division of Fish and
as different aromas and flavors in wines. Wildlife as a Habitat Biologist for
However, to be meaningful, the test for Hodgson RT. 2009. An analysis of the concordance almost 30 years. He is currently
whether or not terroir is real will need to among 13 U.S. wine competitions. Journal of Wine taking enology and viticulture
be based on organoleptic analysis of wine Economics. 4(1):1-9. classes through the Viticulture and
aroma and flavors. If most wine-drinkers Enology Science Technology
can’t reliably or consistently detect or rec- Knight S, Klaere S, Fedrizzi B, Goddard M. 2015. Alliance (VESTA) as well as pursuing
ognize the aromas and flavors associated Regional microbial signatures positively correlate a Master of Science Degree in
with a specific terroir, then what is the real with differential wine phenotypes: evidence for a Enology from Missouri State
value of terroir, other than for marketing? microbial aspect to terroir. Science Reports. 5:14233; University. He is also an avid home
[accessed August 18, 2017]. www.nature.com/ winemaker and brewer. He plans to
Bibliography: articles/srep14233. pursue winemaking as a second
Barata A, Malfeito-Ferreira M, Loureiro V. 2012. career in 2019.
The microbial ecology of wine grape berries. Interna- Maltman A. 2013. Minerality in wine: a geological
tional Journal of Food Microbiology. 153(3):243-259. perspective. Journal of Wine Research. 24(3):169-181. Tim can be reached at:
Matthews MA. 2015. Terrior and other myths of [email protected].
AMERICANWINESOCIE T Y.ORG winegrowing. Oakland (CA): University of
California Press. WINE JOURNAL : SUMMER : 2018 | 29

Renouf V, Miot-Sertier C, Strehaiano P, Lonvaud-
Funel A. 2006. The wine microbial consortium: a real
terroir characteristic. Journal International Des
Sciences De La Vigne Et Du Vin. 40(4):101–116.

Saxton V. 2002. Calcium in viticulture - unravel-
ling the mystique of French terroir. Wine Business
Monthly. September; [accessed August 18, 2017].
www.winebusiness.com/wbm/?go=getArticle&-
dataId=20182

21 Wines to Watch EllenLandis,CS,CSW

TR Elliott | 2015 Burgonet Pinot Noir | Russian River Valley, California Rodney Strong Vineyards | 2014 Symmetry | AlexanderValley, Sonoma County, California

Plush with precise balance, this remarkable wine is provocative and well defined. Aromas of red A sophisticated Bordeaux blend, crafted of 80% Cab Sauv, 8% Malbec, 5% Merlot, 4% Petit
cherries lead to raspberries, earth notes, Sweetheart cherries, exotic spice, cherry cola, and wild Verdot and 3% Cab Franc. Scents of roasted coffee bean and black fruits start the parade.
mushrooms dancing gracefully with a stream of minerality. Focused and pure, this Pinot Noir Intoxicating layers of bittersweet chocolate, black cherry, spiced plum jam, and black currant
combines old world earthiness with new world fruitiness; beautifully crafted. unfold. The oak (from 20 months aging in 43% new French barrels) is well managed. Tightly
wound, decant if imbibing now, or cellar for years of enjoyment ahead.
Food pairing: Mahi Mahi with shitake mushroom butter | SRP: $48 | www.trelliott.com
Food pairing: Truffle butter seared filet mignon | SRP: $55 | www.rodneystrong.com
Weisinger Family Winery | 2014 Estate Tempranillo | Rogue Valley, Oregon
Stone Griffon Vineyard | 2013 Estate Reserve Tempranillo |WillametteValley, Oregon
This luxuriously textured Tempranillo paves the way with heady scents of dark fruit and spice.
Flavors of sweet black cherries, wild blackberries, dried plums, crushed tobacco leaf, star anise, This extraordinary 100% Tempranillo opens with red fruits and toast tempting you into the
underlying oak and peppery accents interlace, creating a savory masterpiece on the palate. glass. Fresh cherries, red raspberries, earthiness, and a twist of multi-colored peppercorns light
Firmly structured with plush tannins and a zesty finish that never gives up. up the palate with lip-smacking flavors. Oak nuances (20 months in 75% new French and
American oak) are well integrated. Ethereal, lively and meticulously balanced through
Food pairing: Classic lasagna | SRP: $38 | www.weisingers.com the forever finish.

Centennial Vineyards | NV Brut Traditionelle | Southern Highlands, Australia Food pairing: Serrano ham wrapped grilled figs | SRP: $48 | www.stonegriffonvineyard.com

This multi-vintage sparkling wine is a blend of 60% Pinot Noir, 37% Chardonnay and 3% Pinot Schlosskellerei Gobelsburg | 2016 Grüner Veltliner | Kamptal, Austria
Meunier, from cool climate vineyards in Bowral, New SouthWales. Aromas of fresh baked bread
engage the senses. Layers of juicy grapefruit, stone fruit, and strawberry pie meld with fresh This dry Grüner is divinely fresh and elegant. Full of uplifting flavors on the palate, as notes of
herbs, and the stream of tiny bubbles is everlasting. Well balanced and persistent through the baby lettuce leaves, cape gooseberries, spice-laced tropical fruit compote, hints of herbs and
lifted finish. white pepper interlink with a nice mineral note and bright acidity. A perfect refresher to sip on
a warm summer day.
Food pairing: Gruyere/roasted cauliflower quiche | SRP: $34.99 | www.centennial.net.au
Food pairing: White asparagus/shrimp salad | SRP: $20 | www.gobelsburg.at
Tertini Wines | 2017 Pinot Blanc | Southern Highlands, Australia
Smith-Madrone Vineyards & Winery | 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon
The florals on the nose of this skillfully crafted Pinot Blanc will capture your senses. Dazzling the Spring Mountain District, Napa Valley, California
palate are layers of peach, ripe melon, crisp green apple, lemon curd, savory spice, mineral notes
and a hint of nuttiness. The mouthfeel is a lavish, and vibrant acids keep it energized. It oozes Here is an intensely built Cab Sauv blended with 8% Cab Franc and 7% Merlot.This gem shows
varietal characteristics through the finish, which lingers memorably. off the terroir of this long growing season region in spades. Deep fruit on the nose segues to
plum, black raspberry, black currant, licorice, herbs, spiced oak and earth coating the palate.
Food pairing: Peach glazed chicken breast | SRP: $30 | www.tertiniwines.com.au Tightly wound with a firm backbone of tannins. Decant if you pop the cork now, or wait
patiently, there are rewards to gain by cellaring.
Artemis Wines | 2015 Close Vine Pinot Noir | Southern Highlands, Australia
Food pairing: Black Angus sirloin steak | SRP: $52 | www.smithmadrone.com
From low-yield vineyards comes this artful Pinot Noir. Floral and earthy on the nose, followed
by cherry, strawberry and pomegranate fruit accented by exotic spice delighting the senses Talley Vineyards | 2016 “Bishop’s Peak” Oliver’s Vineyard Chardonnay
on entry. Elements of forest floor and blanched almonds add complexity on mid palate. Well Edna Valley, California
balanced and seductive, with underlying oak nicely placed in the background.
This well-honed cool climate Chardonnay opens with a dream inducing aroma. Stone fruit,
Food pairing: Mushroom gnocchi | SRP: $45 | www.artemiswines.com.au sweet Meyer lemon, juicy mandarin orange, mineral notes and shades of subtle oak create a
lively mouthful of thirst-quenching flavors. Balanced, pure and clean; a sunny, invigorating quaff.
Ramey Wine Cellars | 2015 Claret | NapaValley/Mendocino/Russian RiverValley, California
Food pairing: Hamachi avocado crudo | SRP: $20 | www.talleyvineyards.com
This rich blend of 68% Cabernet Sauvignon, 18% Merlot, 6% Syrah, 4% Malbec and 4% Petit
Verdot shows off purity of fruit and spicy notes at first enticing whiff. Black currant, dark plums,
tobacco, savory spice and pleasing oak nuances build on the palate, with earthy elements adding
further dimension. Finely grained tannins and keen balance speak to its age-worthiness.

Food pairing: Wagyu beef cheeks | SRP: $42 | www.rameywine.com

30 | WINE JOURNAL : SUMMER : 2018 AMERICANWINESOCIE T Y.ORG

Robert Ramsay Cellars | 2014 Red Heaven Counoise | Red Mountain, Washington Ryan Patrick Wines | 2016 Olsen Brothers Vineyard Riesling |YakimaValley,Washington

Aromatic and flavor packed is this Counoise, a key blending grape in Châteauneuf-du-Pape. The classic wet stone aroma stimulates the senses. Snappy, lean and minerally with nectarine,
I find it remarkably pleasing as a stand-alone variety, and here is a fine example. This impres- lime peel, white peach, and citrus blossom accents flowing easily on the palate, supported by a
sive rendition offers up red raspberries, plums, Bing cherries, pomegranate seeds, anise, freshly firm backbone of acidity. This well-crafted, terrific value wine remains glossy and invigorating
milled black pepper and earthiness melding in harmony. Well-structured and delicious through through the long-lasting finish.
the lingering finish.
Food pairing: Gemelli butternut squash pasta | SRP: $12 | www.ryanpatrickwines.com
Food pairing: Braised lamb shank | SRP: $35 | www.robertramsay.com
Kriselle Cellars | 2016 Sauvignon Blanc | Rogue Valley, Oregon
Walla Walla Vintners | 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon | Walla Walla Valley, Washington
Splendid aromatics are fully engaging, and convincingly display varietal character. The profile
A basket full of fresh wild berries on the nose is mirrored on the palate, from first sip of on the palate follows suit, with grapefruit, melon, lemon-lime, and tropical fruit melding with a
this alluring Bordeaux blend, composed of 86% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Merlot, 5% Cabernet delightful level of grassiness. Bracing acidity keeps it vivacious, while 30% fermenting in
Franc, and 3% Petit Verdot. Lean, pure and juicy with cassis, fresh tobacco, plum, black cherry, seasoned oak adds a gratifying roundness to the wine. Bright and refreshing, you’ll be reaching
savory spice and underlying oak. Complex and well structured, it finishes long, with chocolate for more.
mint highlights.
Food pairing: Lemon butter/garlic steamed clams | SRP: $23 | www.krisellecellars.com
Food pairing: Pan roasted veal chops with Cab Sauv reduction sauce
SRP: $45 www.wallawallavintners.com BARRA of Mendocino | 2015 Petite Sirah | Mendocino, California
This noteworthy, darkly-hued Petite Sirah is crafted of fruit from certified organic vineyards.
Paco & Lola | 2016 Albariño | Rías Baixas, Spain Opening with aromas of damp earth and bramble fruits, it struts forth with an air of confidence.
Firm tannins provide excellent framework for the ripe blackberry, mulberry and blueberry fruit
This sleek and full of life Albariño imparts a charming aroma. Fragrant summer wild flowers at the core. Nicely integrated oak, earthy tones and bittersweet chocolate add depth, and the
make way for flavorsome tropical fruit, chopped basil, crunchy pear, lemon curd, understated acid level is finely tuned. Approachable now, and age-worthy.
saline notes, and fresh squeezed grapefruit juice.Vivid and streamlined on the palate with a silky
texture and crisp acids. Finishes with a perky twist of lemon zest. Food pairing: Smoked leg of lamb | SRP: $22 | www.barraofmendocino.com

Food pairing: Pan-seared scallops | SRP: $16 www.pacolola.com Aridus Wine Company | 2016 Malvasia Bianca | Mimbres Valley, New Mexico

Spangler Vineyards | 2013 Petite Sirah | Southern Oregon Beautiful florals on the nose are reminiscent of a fragrant spring bouquet. Jasmine notes
continue their presence on the palate, accompanied by succulent tropical fruits of lychee,
The roasted coffee bean aroma kicks this wine off with pizazz, awakening the senses. Filling the pineapple and guava, cardamom spice, and a touch of sweet citrus. The texture is satin-like,
palate are layers of boysenberry, Damson plum, cacao nibs, black licorice, blueberry, crushed and lively acidity steers it to a zippy close.
pink and white peppercorns, and toasty notes supported by sweet tannins. Full bodied and
intense, it shows good grip on the long finish. Food pairing: Orange ginger chicken | SRP: $36.75 www.ariduswineco.com

Food pairing: Mushroom/wild rice stuffed bell peppers | SRP: $35 | www.spanglervineyards.com About The Author

La Chablisienne | 2013 Chablis Cuvée La Sereine | Burgundy, France Ellen Landis, CS, CSW, is a published wine writer, certified
sommelier, wine educator and professional wine judge. She
Leading off with an expressive citrusy aroma, this Chablis explodes with vibrancy on the palate. spent four years as a sommelier at the Ritz Carlton and
Crunchy Granny Smith apples, juicy white grapefruit, sliced nectarines, lemon zest, and herbal sixteen years as Wine Director/Sommelier at the award
accents are bolstered by striking acidity and a solid thread of minerality. Fresh and crisp with winning boutique hotel she and her husband built
plenty of energy from first to last enlivening sip. and operated in Half Moon Bay, CA. They recently sold the
hotel to devote more time to the world of wine. Ellen is a
Food pairing: Roasted beetroot and Boursin cheese tower | SRP: $22 | www.chablisienne.fr moderator for highly acclaimed wine events, judges
numerous regional, national and international wine
Spindrift Cellars | 2015 Reserve Pinot Noir | Willamette Valley, Oregon competitions each year, and creates and executes wine
seminars for individuals and corporations. She has traveled
Fresh and bright, with a high-toned aroma of red fruit and spice rising from the glass as it extensively to wine regions around the globe.
approaches the nose. Satisfying on the palate, where red cherries, pomegranate, cranberry, oak
spice (aged 18 months in 25% new French oak), minerality, and a touch of herbs interlace with Contact Ellen at [email protected]
a pronounced level of acidity. Nicely crafted with good lift on the finish.

Food pairing: Braised pork ragu | SRP: $32 | www.spindriftcellars.com

AMERICANWINESOCIE T Y.ORG WINE JOURNAL : SUMMER : 2018 | 31

newornoteworthy
by Jim Rink

100 THINGS TO DO IN NORTHERN One of my favorite entries in the book — States, Muscaglione surmised a unique
MICHIGAN WINE COUNTRY number 14 — is kissing the moose at parallel: low-yield harvests produced not
Sleder’s Family Tavern in Traverse only sought after wines but teas as well.
Traverse City is the small town with big City. Founded in 1882, it’s the oldest
events in the northwest corner of the lower continually operating restaurant in the “The flavors and health benefits of teas, like
peninsula of Michigan. It’s well known for state. The moose, whose name is Randolph, wines, are based upon the climate and soils
the annual National Cherry Festival and is stuffed, and he is not on the menu. within which they are grown,” said Musca-
Traverse City Film Festival (founded by glione, who recently launched chagardens.
firebrand filmmaker Michael Moore), but it 100 Things to Do In Traverse City Before You com, an online and offline tea company.
also sits in close proximity to the Leelanau Die is available at amazon.com. Current
Peninsula and Old Mission Peninsula AVAs. retail price is $16. “The Daba Mountain area is extremely
rugged and has been that way for centuries
So…if you decide to tour the wine country SOMMELIER TRADES where plants are left to grow in their natural
there this summer, we heartily recommend FINE WINE FOR TEA environment. As in wine, the more stress
100 Things to Do In Traverse City Before You the grapes, or in this case the tea plant goes
Die by award-winning travel writer Kim Trading grapevines for tea leaves, wine through, the more selective and controlled
Schneider. Despite the morbid title and tastings for tea ceremonies, and Bordeaux, the yield will be. Our tea is hand-picked
sense of urgency, the book is chock full of France, for Daba Mountain, China, noted from an eco-region protected by the World
things to do year-round in the Traverse sommelier Joe Muscaglione knows a thing Wildlife Federation (WWF) providing
City area, organized by food and drink, or two about providing rare beverages to aspiring gourmands and tea connoisseurs
music and entertainment, sports and an emerging market. a new beverage experience.”
recreation, culture and history and
shopping and fashion. Last year, Cha Gardens obtained an
Having spent the past 30 years developing exclusive North American license to sell
beverage programs at Babbo NYC, where rare, low-yield, high-end teas from the
he worked closely with owner Joe Daba Mountain region of China.
Bastianch; Winebow, a premier Italian wine
importer; and TAO, Las Vegas, one of the “The extraordinarily rich flavors of these
most successful restaurants in the United teas are also high in selenium, a proven
antioxidant with medicinal qualities.
It tastes great and it’s good for you,”
Muscaglione said.

Cha Gardens top tea offering includes
Qinba Wu Hao, hand-picked at 2,100-2,300
meter elevation in Daba Mountain, located

3 2 | W I N E J O U R N A L :: S U M M E R :: 2 0 1 8 AMERICANWINESOCIE T Y.ORG

in the ancient province of Shaanxi near “Advertising is crucial to the Currently, Backpack Wine offers multiple
the birthplace of Chinese legend, restaurant business, espe- unique Washington-based canned wines,
Shennong, the legendary emperor who cially in Metro D.C. where including:
discovered tea. happy hours are popular
and competition among • Cheeky Rose™, a Washington State Pinot
VIRGINIA RESTAURATEUR SUES eateries is fierce,” Tracy said. Blanc and Sangiovese Rose blend, is a
OVER “HAPPY HOUR” GAG RULE “But Virginia would rather drier expression, with a touch of peach,
punish me than encourage strawberry and rose petal; a clean crisp
Virginia’s happy hour advertising law is the economic prosperity.” blush wine, it’s a bright treat with an
target of a federal First Amendment open grill in the summer or rich foods in
lawsuit filed today by Washington, D.C. Pacific Legal Foundation, the winter.
area, restaurateur Chef Geoff Tracy. which defends individual
liberties nationwide, represents Tracy free
The law prohibits placing prices on of charge. PLF argues that Virginia’s happy
happy hour advertising, as well as using any hour law not only harms Chef Geoff ’s
terminology other than “happy hour” and bottom line, it’s also unconstitutional.
“drink specials.” Nor can business owners
promote “two-for-one” drinks—they must “The First Amendment clearly protects
be referred to as“half-priced”drinks instead. Americans’ ability to speak truthfully and
freely about their business practices,” said
PLF attorney Anastasia Boden. “This law
reflects outdated notions about alcohol
best left in the Prohibition days.”

This means ads promoting specials such BACKPACK WINE TO BE CANNED • Snappy White™, a Washington State
as “Wine down Wednesdays” and “$5 Riesling based blend, has a touch of
Margaritas” are perfectly legal at Tracy’s Backpack Wine is among the first to offer sweetness and weight that finishes with
restaurants in Maryland and D.C. But at quality wines from the state of Washington refreshing acidity. This balanced white
Chef Geoff ’s Tysons Corner in Vienna, in take-anywhere, easy-open, recyclable delivers notes of green apple and Asian
Virginia, the exact same ads violate state cans. Backpack Wine lets you skip the cork, pear, making it perfect for cocktail hour
law and could lead to fines and suspension grab a pack and take their quality wines or with spicy summer dishes.
of his liquor license. with you, no matter how far off (or on!)
the beaten path you want to go. Currently
Backpack Wine distributes its products • Rowdy Red, a tasty blend of Washington
through retail outlets in 30 states, as well State Merlot and Syrah, shows dark cherry
as its online store at backpack-wine.com. on the nose. It drinks velvety smooth
During 2017, the company had production showing black cherry, plum and a touch of
of approximately 20,000 cases with growth spice. Chill a bit and enjoy anywhere.
anticipated in 2018.

For more information, visit:
www.backpack-wine.com.

AMERICANWINESOCIE T Y.ORG W I N E J O U R N A L :: S U M M E R : 2 0 1 8 | 3 3

ADVERTISE IN THE AWS WINE JOURNAL TODAY!
When you advertise in the Wine Journal, you align your brand with the oldest and largest consumer-
based wine appreciation organization in North America.
Our articles are fresh, creative and educational. We continually work with our writers to deliver articles that
educate our readers and keep them engaged in the wine industry. Issues include articles on…
People, places, events and trends in the wine industry
The art and science of winemaking for amateurs and professionals
Fascinating facts and information about wine and wine tasting
Travel stories from romantic wineries to exotic locals
Food, recipes and complimentary wine parings to please any palate

Contact AWS today to place your ad in Wine Journal.
David Falchek | 888.297.9070 | (fax) 570.344.4825 | [email protected]

americanwinesociety.org

NEXT ISSUE
OF THE JOURNAL

34 | WINE JOURNAL : SUMMER : 2018 Seyval Blanc:

A versatile grape that can
be made into many

different styles of wine.

AMERICANWINESOCIE T Y.ORG

CLASSIFIEDS

ITALIAN WINE TOURS ADVERTISE WITH US!

La Dolce Vita Wine Tours WHO READS THE JOURNAL?
Sample the best of Barolo, Brunello & more.
Small groups (2-14), gourmet dinners, informative The Wine Journal reaches
guides on 17 itineraries in Italy, Rioja & the Douro Valley. a targeted market of
sophisticated and
Also wine/hiking combos. knowledgeable wine

888.746.0022 consumers. Of the members,
dolcetours.com 98% drink wine every
week, 60% buy at least
CORRECTION: In the Spring 2018 issue, on page 27, there was a slight error in
an equation that was used for the making of strawberry port. The equation in the ten cases of wine yearly,
article appeared as: then s=[.42-.072(3-s) ÷ .75 The correct equation should read and 35% make wine. 60%
then s=[.42-.072(3-s)] ÷ .75 of Wine Journal readers

Get Intimate Insights Into The Wine World Of travel to wine regions
at least once per year.
BORDEAUX
BURGUNDY / CHAMPAGNE AD RESERVATION
GERMANY / ALSACE AND REMITTANCE

www.ombiasypr.com
  American Wine Society
[email protected]
 
Att: David Falchek
-­‐  drink
 ultra
 premium
 wines
 
-­‐  dine
 at
 Michelin-­‐star
 level
  PO Box 889 | Scranton, PA 18501
-­‐  meet
 the
 owners/winemakers
 
-­‐  share
 exquisite
 winepairing
 meals
 with
  888-AWS-9070 | (fax) 937.529.7888

them
 right
 at
 the
 estate
  [email protected]
-­‐
 
 
 
 roam
 through
 vineyards
 and
 cellars
 
-­‐  immerse
 yourself
 in
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  AD SUBMISSION
TECHNICAL QUESTIONS
French
 and
 German
 culture.
 
The Blue Guy, LLC
Att: Steve Porter
2185 Britt Street
Grayson, GA 30017

404.925.2677
[email protected]

The American Wine Society

Wine Journal is the official

journal of the American Wine Society,
a non-profit educational organization

dedicated to the education of its
members and the general public

on all aspects of wine.

The Wine Journal is a quarterly

publication and is sent to all
AWS members, either

electronically or in print.

AMERICANWINESOCIE T Y.ORG WINE JOURNAL : SUMMER : 2018 | 35

PO Box 889
Scranton, PA 18501

Address Service
Requested

AMERICANWINESOCIE T Y.ORG AMERICANWINESOCIE T Y.ORG
Follow AWS

36 | WINE JOURNAL : SUMMER : 2018