W ne Journal The American Wine Society Carmenere in Chile spring 2023 Sake 101 Wine School for the Curious Perfect Party Pairings Interest is growing in Napa Valley’s Cabernet Franc as a high-priced varietal napa, s other Cab
THE RESULTS ARE IN... BEST WHITE WINE AT THE LARGEST WINE COMPETITION. SF Chronicle Wine Judges. The Largest Wine Competition in the U.S. Over sixty judges, evaluating 5,500 wines from nearly 1,000 wineries! CALL 541.459.6060 | VISIT REUSTLEVINEYARDS.COM "Reustle Prayer Rock is the rst winery to plant and release Gruner Veltliner in the United States... While other growers and winemakers have followed its lead, Reustle Prayer Rock still pretty much owns the eld when it comes to takes that are dry, lean, pleasingly if delicately fruity, and accented with several dashes of the white pepper for which the variety is celebrated.” ~ MIKE DUNNE, SF Chronicle wine judge & writer. ONLY AVAILABLE THROUGH THE WINERY, LIMITED QUANTITIES AVAILABLE!
AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG 33 6 WINE101 Sake for Dummies -Jack Costa Jack Costa gives us the ins and outs of Japan’s national drink, including a short sidebar on the different types of sake. 12 RESEARCH Good Genes - Erin Marie Miller Armed with innovative technologies, a team of researchers is working to help grape growers fight plant diseases naturally with fewer chemicals. spring contents 17 FEATURE Italian American Winemakers - Jessica Zimmer Many amateur and professional Italian American vintners in the AWS got their start learning from first generation family members. 6 15 17 15 FOOD&WINE Party Pairings - Sarah Tracey Red or white, sweet or dry, wine lovers are entertainers at heart. Nothing enhances a tasting get-together quite like complementary snack and wine pairings. 20 SIPTALK Carmenere in Chile - Gene Spaziani From France to Chile, Carmenere found its true home and is flourishing today. THE RESULTS ARE IN... BEST WHITE WINE AT THE LARGEST WINE COMPETITION. SF Chronicle Wine Judges. The Largest Wine Competition in the U.S. Over sixty judges, evaluating 5,500 wines from nearly 1,000 wineries! CALL 541.459.6060 | VISIT REUSTLEVINEYARDS.COM "Reustle Prayer Rock is the rst winery to plant and release Gruner Veltliner in the United States... While other growers and winemakers have followed its lead, Reustle Prayer Rock still pretty much owns the eld when it comes to takes that are dry, lean, pleasingly if delicately fruity, and accented with several dashes of the white pepper for which the variety is celebrated.” ~ MIKE DUNNE, SF Chronicle wine judge & writer. ONLY AVAILABLE THROUGH THE WINERY, LIMITED QUANTITIES AVAILABLE!
4 AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG EDITOR’S LETTER By Jim Rink “Beer is made by men, wine by God.” — Martin Luther, circa 1500s VOLUME 55 NO. 1 SPRING 2023 Stay thirsty, Published by The American Wine Society a non-profit corporation, PO Box 889, Scranton, PA 18501 Single copies $5.00 Copyright 2023 AWS Inc. © All rights reserved. Reproduction or use of editorial or pictorial content without written permission is prohibited. Library of Congress Class Number: TP544 A46A3 LC Card 76-647900 Publisher John Sporing Editor Jim Rink Contributing Writers Jack Costa, Sharon Flesher, Erin Marie Miller, Roger Morris, Jim Rink, Gene Spaziani, Sarah Tracey, and Jessica Zimmer Editorial Office Jim Rink 20020 Maple St. Lake Ann, MI 49650 [email protected] Unsolicited manuscripts or other information will not be returned unless accompanied by return postage. Advertising Office PO Box 889 Scranton, PA 18501 888-AWS-9070 fax: 570-344-4825 [email protected] Creative/Production Briana Fedorko Blue Flower Graphic Design 570-852-0744 [email protected] blueflowergd.com Hope springs eternal. With each new bud break a new vintage begins and the dude abides. As you will see in this issue of the Journal, between Napa Valley, Chile and the members of the AWS, great wine awaits. Roger Morris unveils a new Napa Valley trend—interest is growing in Cab Franc as a high-priced varietal. Driven mainly by consumer demand, expect to see more Cab Franc on the market. Erin Marie Miller reports on new research, VitisGen3, advanced technology which will play an important role in the collection of data that will ultimately be used to create new, naturally disease-resistant varieties of grapes. The next time you find a wine party on your schedule, consider these simple yet delicious recommendations from sommelier and founder of "The Lush Life," Sarah Tracey, who partnered with Fresh Cravings to create "Dips and Sips." Jack Costa has all the intriguing details about Japan’s national drink, Sake. It’s made from polished rice and fungi, yes, fungi. But the fun doesn’t stop there. Also in this issue, Sharon Flesher has the inside scoop on her adventure as a WSET 2 graduate (with distinction). Longtime contributor and winemaker extraordinaire Gene Spaziani follows the trail of Carmenere from France to Chile, where it has found its true home and is producing excellent wine. Last but not least, Jessica Zimmer has found that many amateur and professional Italian American vintners in the AWS got their start learning from first generation family members. Read their stories here. spring contents 28 INDUSTRYNEWS - Jim Rink Jim Rink delivers the latest happenings from the wine industry. 26 WINEEDUCATION Wine School for the Curious - Sharon Flesher Sharon caught the wine bug and wanted to expand her knowledge. WSET 2 was the answer. 23 26 28 23 COVERSTORY Napa’s Other Cab -Roger Morris Interest is growing in Napa Valley’s Cabernet Franc as a high-priced varietal. This interest is driven mainly by consumer demand.
AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG 5 VOLUME 55 NO. 1 SPRING 2023 ABOUT AWS JOIN AWS The AWS is the largest consumer based wine education organization in the U.S. A non-profit group, the AWS is devoted to educating people on all aspects of wine. Its members include wine novices, experts, grape growers, amateur and professional wine-makers, chefs, wine appreciators, wine educators, restaurateurs, and anyone wanting to learn more about wine. AWS ACTIVITIES Chapters: Local community groups of AWS members sponsor programs, usually monthly. Activities include: tastings, dinners, lectures, picnics, winery tours, wine-making and cooking demonstrations, viticulture conferences, amateur wine-judging events, and other wine-related social events. Guests are welcome and novices have nothing to fear. Chapters are self-supporting, so expect a nominal charge to attend a tasting, dinner, etc. If a local chapter does not exist in your area, the national office will be glad to assist in forming a chapter. All that is needed are a few interested wine lovers. Meeting can be informal and held in member homes or in other settings, such as restaurants and wineries. Regional Events: Organized by regional vice-presidents, include statewide wine judging, contests, special tastings, regional wine conferences, regional picnics and special dinners. National Conference: Held each fall—a two and one-half day national conference and extravaganza of wine. Attendees become part of a tradition that has drawn wine-lovers, wine-makers and gastronomes together every November for over 45 years. Prominent American and international speakers conduct seminars and lectures on all aspects of wine appreciation, wine production, grape growing and cuisine. Members experience fine food at connoisseur luncheons and dinners, tastings of hundreds of wines and royal treatment by the finest American hotels and resorts. The annual conference brings professionals, serious amateurs and novices together to discover what is new in wine. Founder Konstantin Frank AWS National Officers and Board of Directors President Bill Stefan Treasurer Rich Berezinsky Director of Member Services Carrie A. Garczynski Vice President Eric Feldhake Director of Education Annemarie Morse Interim Executive Director John Sporing Secretary Ronald Natalie Director of Competitions Rex Bambling Member Services Manager Colleen Reardon Join on-line at americanwinesociety.org or mail in the form below Select type of membership Individual..........$49 3-Year Individual..........$124 Household (2 people living at same address).........$62 3-Year Household..........$158 Professional (includes wall plaque and website listing)..$99 Lifetime (one or two people living at same address)....$950 Student (ages 21-30, full-time student)..........$25 Canada and all other countries outside U.S. add $5 to above amounts (membership dues are non-refundable) SAVE 15% SAVE 15% Select method of payment Visa Discover Mastercard American Express Name on card Credit card number Cardholder’s signature Security code Expiration Check (payable to AWS) Last name I want to join the AWS I want to give an AWS Membership to: This Gift Membership Is From: First name Address City/State/Zip Code Phone w/Area Code Phone w/Area Code Chapter Member 1: Chapter Member 2: Secondary Member Name Last name Address Phone w/Area Code Email Email Email First name City/State/Zip Email • Participation in local chapter activities and events • Participation in local, regional and national events • Personalized membership card • AWS Bimonthly Newsletter • AWS vintage charts • Wine Judge Certification Program • National Wine Tasting Project • Wine-making competitions • AWS Wine Competition Discounts • Discounts from wineries and other AWS partners Complete and mail form to: American Wine Society PO Box 889 Scranton, PA 18501 Questions? We are ready to help! 888-AWS-9070 fax: 570-344-4825 email: [email protected] AWS MEMBER BENEFITS INCLUDE: Front and Back Covers: Napa Scenes Photo credit: visitnapavalley.com Photos by Bob McClenahan.
6 AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG A Beginner’s Guide to Becoming a Sake Snob By Jack Costa Sake |
AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG WINE101 .............................................. ................................................. ..................................................... ..................................................... ..................................................... | hat does the national beverage of Japan and the Washington State Riesling chilling in your wine cooler have in common? Much more than you might think actually. Both the sake and wine worlds share ancient origins that have evolved with deep cultural and regional roots intact. Both crafted through fermentation and both resulting in a captivating beverage with exciting varieties, delicate flavors, and rich in subtlety and nuance. And while it is now socially acceptable to sip fine sake from an elegant wine glass or ask a Sake sommelier for sake food pairing suggestions, you will never mistake a sip of French Chardonnay for one of Japanese Junmai-shu sake. A Brief History of Sake Ancient Chinese history books have noted the Japanese love for sake since the 3rd and 4th centuries. The oldest rice alcohol ever (not sake, but still related) ever found, was discovered in a bronze jar in China. The jar’s corrosion caused the container to hermetically seal, keeping the wine inside from evaporating for 9,000 years! This of course makes the 75-year-old bottle of Port you’ve been saving seem a bit pedestrian. In modern times, sake can now be found across the globe, but the highest quality and most prized is exclusively produced in Japan. Here sake holds a deep connection with Japan’s cultural, historical, and religious identity. Shinto rituals, weddings, and most social events, including funerals, have sake at their core. Initially, only the drink of Japanese nobility, but with time, becoming the national drink for commoners and royalty alike. Sake 101: The Basics How do you pronounce “Sake” ? If you don't want to be “that” person who pronounces Tempranillo as if it rhymes with the color yellow, sake is pronounced ‘Saw-KAY.’ If you pronounce it ‘Saw-KEY,” you run the very real risk of being mistaken for a Japanese hillbilly. Is Sake a wine? Sake is technically not a wine, nor a beer, nor a spirit. Sake lives in its own world somewhere between beer and wine; fermented from a grain like beer, with physical and flavor qualities more akin to wine. It is commonly thought of as a “rice wine” because it shares so many similarities to wine, especially white wine. The best way to think of sake is that it is simply sake. What is Sake made from? The shopping list to make a beautiful wine is rather short: grapes and yeast. Fundamentally, Japanese sake requires only a few more ingredients: rice, water, yeast, and mold (yes mold). What does Sake look like? Sake, because of how it is filtered, commonly appears clear, similar to vodka or gin. Sake, however, can also appear as amber or straw-colored, or even cloudy, resembling the appearance of milk (doesn’t taste like it, trust me!). Like wine, as sake ages, it can also change color, commonly going from clear to golden over time. Unlike wine, sake quality usually degrades with age and is recommended to be drunk within a year's time after production. 7
AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG 8 What does Sake smell like? It can be a bit mind-blowing when you first smell sake. How can something made from fermented rice have aromas of fruit, melon, floral, or citrus? More understandable notes of spice (clove, cinnamon, fenugreek), grass, earth, nuts, and tea are also common. Much of sake’s essence comes primarily from the fermentation process rather than the rice itself. Much of wine's primary qualities come from the fruit itself with secondary qualities coming from the fermentation and aging processes. What does Sake taste like? Surprisingly, like wine, sake can have a diverse flavor profile: Sweet to Dry (non-sweet), sour, bitter. Sake can have savory umami flavors like cereal, caramel, or mushroom. Though flavors can be subtle, they are far from bland! Look Visually inspect color/hue: colorless, pale yellow, gold, amber, dark amber? Clarity: clear, dull, cloudy? The major factors in color variation are usually related to the age of the sake and the filtration method used. Smell Identify aromas and their intensities: fruit, grass, alcohol, earth, nuts? When served in a wine glass, swirl away, but when served in the traditional Ochoko cups, beware of swirling, for you may be wearing more sake than tasting. Taste Sweet/medium/dry? Body rich and heavy or light and clean? Finish long and lingering or brief? Acid, umami, bitterness present? Unlike wine, the taste of sake is expected to vanish quickly, a long finish is considered undesirable. Conclude Develop a profile for the sake in your mind and try to determine the characteristics and notes you desire most. Like wine, the crowd-pleasers of sake attract the newbies, but with experience, a mature palate can be nurtured and developed to appreciate the finer qualities of sake. What is the mouthfeel of Sake? Depending on a sake’s levels of sugars, acids, and amino acids, the mouthfeel can range from a complex, rich, full-bodied sake to one that is light and clean. Sake does not contain tannins like wines, but can still possess some astringency, and like wine, this astringency can mellow with age. Sake is generally lower in acid than most wines but makes up for this with higher alcohol levels (around 14-16%). How is Sake served? Put away your Zalto wine glasses you paid 60 bucks for, sake is served traditionally in small earthen cups. While hard-up college students may resort to doing shots of sake, the civilized sake world knows it is to be sipped not slugged. Sake can be served hot, cold, or simply at room temperature. The wine world’s influence, however, has led some sake professionals to begin suggesting that you serve sake chilled, and in a wine glass. .................................... ............................. ............................. .............................. Sake 102: how to taste sake | |
AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG 9 .................................... .............................. Infographic courtesy of: sake-talk.com | |Sake 103: how to make sake Step 1: Milling the rice Before anything can be done, the rice must first be milled and ‘polished.’ Highly polished rice grains are essential for making premium, high-quality sake. Why? Because it removes impurities found on the outside of the grain (fats, proteins, and residual minerals). Ultimately, these impurities can impart unwanted aromas and unpleasant flavors into the sake, similar to how unwanted ingredients or damaged fruit can taint wine. The polishing process takes the initial almond-shaped rice grain and mills it smaller and smaller until the desired level of milling is performed. The milling process can remove as little as 30 percent of the rice grain's exterior to greater than 70 percent. The more the rice is polished, the more it takes on the shape of a pearl. And from these pearls, the finest and most expensive sake’s are made. Step 2: Steaming the rice Once the rice has been polished into a pearl-like appearance, the rice is washed in order to clean and hydrate the grain before being steamed. It is important to note that the rice is steamed but not actually cooked like normal food rice. Why? Steaming the rice makes it less sticky and presumably easier to work with. Step 3: Inoculating the Rice Once the rice has been polished into a pearl-like appearance, the rice is washed in order to clean and hydrate the grain before being steamed. It is important to note that the rice is steamed but not actually cooked like normal food rice. Why? Steaming the rice makes it less sticky and presumably easier to work with. Step 4: Fermentation Yeast is added to a portion of the koji rice to make a fermentation starter. Over the following weeks, koji rice is continually added to the original starter to continue the fermentation process. The resulting ingredients begin to take on the appearance of rice crispy cereal with steamed milk, better known as, the mash. Over the next 4-5 weeks, the mash will slowly ferment and begin its transformation from rice pudding to sake! Step 5: Pressing, Racking, Filtering, Pasteurizing and Bottling Once the fermentation is complete, the mash is pressed to extract the liquid, leaving the solids, almost like rice cakes, behind. Like wine in barrels, sediment and other particles will settle to the bottom of the tank. Racking removes the liquid from the tank while leaving the solids behind. Sometimes, depending on the style, brewers will filter the sake so that it appears clear and free of any particulates. (Think filtered and unfiltered wine) However, not all sake is filtered. Sometimes brewers will allow the sake to retain its turbidity which adds a fuller more round mouthfeel to the sake. Again, depending on style, sake will sometimes be pasteurized by heating the beverage to 160F before bottling, and sometimes, after bottling. Brewers do this to kill any remaining bacteria or yeast cells that might spoil the sake.
10 Label photos provided by: japansake.or.jp Sake 104: how to choose a sake So now it's time to sip some sake, but you haven't the slightest idea how to choose a bottle (Hint: the grocery clerk doesn't either). Sake is, well, sake, right? It's like wine, there's a red one and a white one. What could possibly go wrong? Before you rush out and grab a random bottle of sake, you might want to know there are dozens of different styles of sake to choose | from. And like wine, there are the good, the bad, and the ugly. So in an effort to avoid permanently crippling your palate and placing sake on your “do not call” list, the following tips may help you to avoid equating sake with grandpa’s moonshine that blinded grandma for 3 days (yes, true story). You’ll be happy to know that the sake world has done you a solid by establishing a few helpful hints to assist you in knowing what's inside each sake bottle. Thankfully, the most helpful information is located right on the front label. | Learn more about Sake labels at: www.japansake.or.jp/sake/en/ basic/how-to-read-sakebottle-labels
AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG 11 | helpful hints: making the grade The sake world has established an industry-wide system of grading sake to help consumers understand the type and style of sake being sold. Each grade has its own general flavor profile and price point associated with it. This grading system is based primarily on TWO factors: The This is the extent to which the rice grain’s outer layers are milled away. Rice Milling Rate (aka Polishing Ratio): | The more the rice is “polished” the higher the grade of sake. Ex: A sake with a 70% milling ratio is made from rice that has had 30% of its outer husk milled away, leaving 70% of the rice grain to be used for sake production. In recent years however, Japanese sake makers have attempted to divorce the concept of milling as a sign of quality. Rather, they believe milling rates to be a stylistic preference. Has Alcohol Been Added: In the context of premium sake, the addition of distilled alcohol to the final sake is a common and longstanding practice. To add or not to add alcohol is a major designation defining the two primary types of sake. If the sake is labeled with the term “Junmai” (June-my), it contains NO added distilled alcohol. If the sake does NOT have the term “Junmai” on its label, it means alcohol has been added to the sake. This addition of alcohol is generally not an effort to make the sake more “buzz” inducing (some college students might disagree), but rather, it is added to achieve a different style of sake. As in wine, higher levels of alcohol in sake can have a significant effect on the style and character of the wine. Additives such as flavorings, fragrances, or color additives are not allowed in premium sakes. While Junmai sakes are considered ultra-premium by many, don’t be so quick to saddle up your “sake snob” high horse just yet. When comparing the different grades of sake, it is not necessarily a comparison of better or worse, but rather, a comparison of styles of sake. Some people prefer apples to oranges, Pinot to Port, or Daiginjo to Junmai Ginjo sake. One sake grade is not necessarily better than the other, but rather a different style. Like different styles of wines, different grades of sake may have very different characteristics, but be equally delicious. At this point, you’ve probably begun to notice the gradual onset of a headache, similar to those induced when learning high school chemistry or trying to figure out how to change your Facebook profile picture. The best method to alleviate such headaches is to quite simply, drink some sake. Results are guaranteed. "Kanpai!" (aka cheers!). Jack is a writer, producer and content creator. At the age of 17, the Oregon native began studying winemaking under Stephen Rustle. Jack’s work has been featured by several publications, including Wine Folly and the American Wine Society Journal. He can be found on The Wine Heretics podcast and at wineheretics.com About the Author Other Varieties to try Nigorizake (Nigori): Can be made in combination with other sake styles Koshu: Try if you like Sherry or Madeira Namazake: Raw, almost fresh flavor Sparkling Sake: Similar to Champagne Cedar Cask Aged (Taruzake): A refreshing floral, sweet scent Tokubetsu Sake ("special"): Contains no added alcohol and the rice must have a polishing ratio of 60% or less
12 AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG ood enes By Erin Marie Miller Armed with innovative technologies, a team of researchers is working to help grape growers fight plant diseases naturally with fewer chemicals. G or grape growers, perhaps nothing is as ubiquitous as the ever-looming threat of powdery mildew in the vineyard. From its impact on the taste and acidity of wine grapes to the high cost of managing the stubborn yet all-too-common fungus (according to a 2014 study from the Robert Mondavi Institute Center for Wine Economics, California grape growers paid an estimated $189 million in 2011 to prevent and treat the disease), the impact of powdery mildew on the American wine industry is undeniable – as are the challenges associated with preventing and eradicating it. Despite its hefty impact, contemporary research on the fungus in vineyards has lagged, often leaving growers and breeders speculative about best practices for treating vines afflicted with the disease.“There's a strong need for guidance on how to best target [mildew], when to apply fungicides, what to apply to biologicals – if they can fill in treatment with UV light or if that can help complement it. So, there's definitely a research gap,” says Dr. Lance Cadle-Davidson, adjunct professor in the School of Integrative Plant Science at Cornell AgriTech and research plant pathologist at the USDA-ARS Grape Genetics Research Unit, whose work focuses on powdery mildew in plants. A new research project launching this spring could change that, though. Led by the University of Minnesota in collaboration with researchers from a slew of respected institutions across the nation, including CadleDavidson, VitisGen3 will take aim at powdery mildew quantification using innovative technology in hopes of developing new disease-resistant grape varieties – and potentially bringing those technologies into the field to help grape growers assess powdery mildew in their vineyards. A continuing effort to fight plant disease in vineyards Part of a decade-long grape breeding project, VitisGen3 is the continuation of research and developments conducted throughout VitisGen1 and 2, upon which co-project director Cadle-Davidson hopes to build over the next four years. “This grape breeding project started in 2011, and so it's like the seeds of [VitisGen3] even started back then as we were thinking about how we can more accurately quantify powdery mildew severity and other traits on grape vines,” says Cadle-Davidson, noting that discussions about the latest project began in 2018 with planning coordinated by the National Grape Research Alliance. For Cadle-Davidson, who has played a role in VitisGen since its beginning, the current project offered an opportunity to expand on the technological and genetic advancements made by earlier researchers over the last decade – including more advanced technologies to aid in the detection of plant diseases. “[During previous iterations of VitisGen], the technologies were in an infant stage. We brought everything into the laboratory where we can control all the possible variables of the pathogen inoculum distributions, lighting, and use really high-resolution optics to very accurately quantify disease – our goal being, eventually, to take things out to the field,” Cadle-Davidson says, adding that the technologies used to detect disease in vineyards this spring will be “on the cutting edge.” 100% NATURAL HEALTHY FOOD 100% NATURAL ORGANIC PRODUCT Dr. Lance Cadle-Davidson
13 RESEARCH Using advanced technology to solve an age-old problem Throughout VitisGen3, advanced technology will play an important role in the collection of data that will ultimately be used to create new, naturally disease-resistant varieties of grapes, as well as more targeted – and less toxic – disease management systems and guidance for vineyards. “We have three major technical aspects to be advanced in this project: active imaging unit for powdery mildew sensing, affordable autonomous robotic base, and reliable and rapid data analysis and interpretation for actionable items,” says Dr. Yu Jiang, assistant professor of systems engineering and data analytics for Specialty Crops in the Horticulture Section, School of Integrative Plant Science at Cornell AgriTech, Cornell University. An applied roboticist who previously worked on projects for the USDA, NASA and private sector companies, Jiang now works primarily on the development of multi-modal sensing, autonomous robots and artificial intelligence based data analytical methods for specialty crop research and production—including robots that will be used throughout VitisGen3. To get started, the team drew on two years of preliminary data gathered from VitisGen2 with a product called Flash that was part of Dr. Terry Bates’ “Efficient Vineyard” project at Cornell, gaining an understanding of the type of imaging they would for VitisGen3. To meet those needs, Jiang expanded the robots used in the current project to include imaging spectrometers – a move that will allow the team to phenotype grapevines, detect disease severity and quantify powdery mildew in the vineyard, rather than in the lab, with two tiers of robots and two tiers of hyperspectral imaging technology. “In this project, we will focus on powdery mildew resistance in breeding programs and genetic studies. PhytoPatholoBot is a customized version for autonomous grape disease sensing and quantification. Based on the disease characteristics and vineyard conditions, we identified three major robot modules including a custom imaging unit, a wheel-based mobile robot with autonomous navigation, and deep learning-based disease detection and severity quantification,” Jiang says. In addition to PhytoPatholoBots, which have been in development since summer 2020, other advanced robots – the BlackBird and the HyperBird – will also be used to quantify powdery mildew in the field throughout VitisGen3. The first four PhytoPatholoBots will be sent out to study grapes and quantify powdery mildew severity in breeding programs at eight institutions nationwide this spring, each overseen by Jiang with input from a team of extension specialists organized by Dr. Katie Gold, the project’s co-principal investigator. 100% NATURAL HEALTHY FOOD 100% NATURAL ORGANIC PRODUCT Dr. Yu Jiang PhytoPatholoBot VitisGen3 PhytoPatholoBot Dr. Yu Jiang
14 AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG Developing innovative methods of early detection and disease management for vineyards In addition to robots outfitted with hyperspectral imaging, VitisGen3 researchers will also gather data on the physiological state of grapevines with reflectance spectrometers – handheld devices that use hyperspectral reflectance to gather information across the electromagnetic spectrum and detect diseases in grape leaves without harming the plant. “By using these hyperspectral cameras that see light beyond what our eyes can see – and they also see light at such fine intervals that it gives us a near-continuous data product – we're able to … look at a picture of a leaf up close and see all the subtle color gradation differences. We can effectively see all the subtle chemical differences,” explains Dr. Katie Gold, assistant professor of grape pathology in the Plant Pathology and Plant-Microbe Biology Section of the School of Integrative Plant Science at Cornell University. By combining the two different methods of collecting data, VitisGen3 researchers will be able to “see” diseases in grapevines at multiple scales – while enabling the team to produce matching data sets simultaneously. For Gold, another benefit of imaging spectroscopy will come from its ability to help the project’s genetics researchers identify unique diseaseresistant traits more efficiently. “Hopefully, one of the things that we're really looking forward to is that hyperspectral [imaging] has really shown that it has so much promise in breeding programs in terms of identifying not-so-clear-cut forms of resistance,” Gold says. Part of that promise lies in the ability to identify less obvious quantitative trait loci (genetic markers that correlate with quantitative phenotypic traits), ideally observing multiple genes interacting in different ways to resist disease – something that could help preserve the longevity of new grape varieties’ resistance to pathogens and be useful in mitigating the effects of climate change. Developing new guidance and options for grape growers In addition to developing updated disease management guidance for grape growers, the data collected in vineyards throughout VitisGen3 will be used to create new hybrid grape varieties that are naturally resistant to diseases like powdery mildew using Mendelian genetic techniques. Although the team acknowledges that convincing growers to adopt new varieties of grapes might be challenging due to reluctance about producing hybrid wines, Gold stresses the benefits of hybrids for preventing common vineyard diseases like powdery mildew – including quality wines, extending disease resistance in vines, and the potential for reducing the use of pesticides in vineyards by up to 90%. “Resistance is not always eternal. Pathogens are under selective pressure to evolve to overcome it. So, by adding in a bit of chemistry as well, we can protect the longevity of these resistant varieties and make improvements to the sustainability of the industry by reducing [pesticide] use overall,” Gold says. 100% NATURAL HEALTHY FOOD 100% NATURAL ORGANIC PRODUCT Dr. Katie Gold “By using these hyperspectral cameras that see light beyond what our eyes can see – and they also see light at such fine intervals that it gives us a near-continuous data product—we're able to…look at a picture of a leaf up close see all the subtle chemical differences.” Erin Marie Miller is a freelance journalist based in Metro Detroit. A lover of all things independent, she has written about small businesses, restaurants, nonprofits, the arts and more for publications in Michigan and California since 2014. About the Author All photos in this article courtesy of: Cornell University
AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG 15 Red or white, sweet or dry, wine lovers are often entertainers at heart. When inviting guests to share your personal favorites, nothing enhances a tasting get-together quite like complementary snack and wine pairings. The next time you find a wine party on your schedule, consider these simple yet delicious recommendations from sommelier and founder of "The Lush Life," Sarah Tracey, who partnered with Fresh Cravings to create "Dips and Sips." Aimed at reinventing wine and cheese parties, the movement focuses on simplistic recipes, easy dip pairings and suggested wines. "When I entertain at home, I'm always looking for ways to impress my friends with fresh, creative bites I can pair with wine," Tracey said. "My favorite hack is finding great products with high-quality ingredients then creating simple, elevated ways to serve them. The less time I spend in the kitchen, the more time I get to spend with my guests." Tracey relies on the versatility of Fresh Cravings' array of dip options and crowd-pleasing, bold flavors worth celebrating. With authentic-tasting chilled salsas offering a vibrant alternative to soft, dull blends of jarred salsa and flavor-filled hummus made with premium ingredients like Chilean Virgin Olive Oil, these dips elevate both traditional and reinvented recipes. Find more recipe and pairing ideas perfect for enhancing your next party at FreshCravings.com. All recipes courtesy of Sarah Tracey. Article courtesy of Michael French (editors.familyfeatures.com) Dr. Katie Gold Sarah Tracey is a wine pro Certified by the Court of Master Sommeliers who’s taught 400+ wine classes and counting. She built her career from emptying spit buckets at a local winery, to running the wine programs of Michelin-star NYC restaurants and traveling the world visiting wine regions across the globe. For more info visit her page at thelushlife.xyz About the Author FOOD&WINE PARTy Pairings By Sarah tracey All recipe photos courtesy of: freshcravings.com
16 AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG • 1 1/2 lbs butternut squash • 2 tbsp olive oil • 1 tbsp maple syrup • 1/2 tsp cumin • 1/2 tsp chili powder • Salt and pepper, to taste • 1 container Fresh Cravings Roasted Garlic Hummus • 1 package mini naan dippers • 1 bunch fresh rosemary, minced • La Veielle Ferme Rosé - Preheat oven to 425 F. - Chop butternut squash into 1/2-inch chunks. - Toss squash with olive oil, maple syrup, cumin and chili powder. - Spread on sheet pan, sprinkle with salt and pepper, to taste, and roast until tender, about 20 minutes. - Spread hummus on naan dippers, top each with squash and rosemary. - Pair with deeper, savory and earthy rosé. Cheesy Tortilla Cutouts with Salsa Total time: 20 minutes Servings: 6 • 1 tube (16 oz) prepared polenta • Nonstick cooking spray • Salt, to taste • 8 oz jumbo lump crabmeat • 1 container Fresh Cravings Pico de Gallo Salsa, Mild • 1 bunch fresh mint, finely chopped • Rosé - Preheat oven to 400 F. - Slice polenta into 1/4-inch thick rounds. Arrange on baking sheet sprayed with nonstick cooking spray and bake 20-25 minutes until golden brown and crispy. Sprinkle with salt, to taste, and let cool. - Combine jumbo lump crab meat with salsa. - Top each polenta round with crab salsa mixture. - Garnish with finely chopped fresh mint and pair with vibrant, fruity rosé. Polenta Rounds with Pico de Gallo Salsa and Crab Total time: 30 minutes Servings: 6 • 16 oz cremini mushrooms, stems and gills removed • 1 container Fresh Cravings Classic Hummus • 1 jar manzanilla olives stuffed with pimientos, cut in half • 1 jar roasted red pepper strips • Salt and pepper, to taste • Non-stick Olive Oil Spray • Oregon Pinot Noir - Preheat oven to 375 F. Prepare sheet pan with nonstick olive oil spray. - Place mushroom caps on sheet pan, spray with olive oil and season with salt and pepper, to taste. - Roast 7-8 minutes then let mushrooms cool to room temperature. - Fill each mushroom cap with hummus and top each with one olive slice. - Thinly slice roasted red pepper strips and arrange around olive slices. - Pair with lighter bodied Pinot Noir with cherry notes from Oregon. Hummus-Stuffed Mushrooms Total time: 15 minutes Servings: 6 • Nonstick cooking spray • 6 large flour tortillas • 16 oz pepper jack cheese, grated • 1 can (4 oz) green chiles, drained • 1 bunch fresh cilantro, finely chopped • 1 container Fresh Cravings Restaurant Style Salsa, Medium • New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc - Preheat oven to 350 F. Prepare sheet pan with nonstick cooking spray. - Place large flour tortilla on sheet pan. Top with handful of grated cheese. - Sprinkle chiles on top of cheese layer. Add chopped cilantro and cheese. - Top with another tortilla. Bake until cheese is melted, about 10 minutes. - Work in batches to make three sets of cheese-filled tortillas. - Cut out desired shapes with cookie cutters. - Serve with salsa and pair with Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand. Spiced Butternut Squash Naan Flatbreads Total time: 25 minutes Servings: 6
AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG 17 FEATURE All in the Family Family Traditions Influence Italian-American Winemakers By Jessica Zimmer any amateur and professional Italian American vintners in the AWS got their start learning from first generation family members. Families’ persistence in making blends through Prohibition ensured these traditions would continue. Gene Spaziani, who is 93, has been an American Wine Society member since 1977 and has won numerous AWS awards for winemaking. He is also the author of The Home Winemaker’s Companion, a well-known guide for amateur winemakers. Spaziani said homemade wine has been a staple ever since his father’s side of the family immigrated from Supino, a town 43 miles southeast of Rome. “Back when my grandfather came to America in 1919, every Italian American family made wine in one form or another. We drank the wine at dinner every night, especially around the holidays. I grew up with my grandfather, uncles, and cousins making red wine every year,” said Spaziani. Spaziani said a family wine was usually paired with his grandmother’s fresh bread and homemade cheese. “We lived in a semi-rural area near West Haven, Connecticut. In our yard, we grew native coldhardy grapes ourselves along with vegetables. My grandfather also bought red grapes from California to include,” said Spaziani. Spaziani remembers the men in his family used to congregate after dinner to talk and smoke cigars. “I used to sit under the table and listen. Since I was the oldest grandchild, my grandfather would give me a little bit of wine in a glass. He’d fill up the rest up with water. Many times, I fell asleep under the table,” said Spaziani. Wine was popular among Italian immigrants partly because around the turn of the century, many Italian towns did not have water that was safe to drink, said Philip DiNovo. DiNovo, the president and executive director of the Italian American Heritage Association and the Italian American Heritage Museum, both in Albany, New York, also came from a winemaking family. He said winemaking became a way to keep friends and family close. “It was a creative outlet, a practical way of making a product, and a fellowship to bring men together,” said DiNovo. M
18 AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG DiNovo’s paternal grandfather came from Termini Imerese, a town 22 miles away from Palermo on the island of Sicily. He used to buy grapes from California in the early fall. “They’d get delivered in front of people’s homes, 10 to 20 wooden boxes at a time. We’d break down the wood and use it for firewood,” said DiNovo. His family used a wine press much like the one that is in an exhibit at the museum. “That’s actually my father-in-law’s wine press,” said DiNovo. DiNovo said that for decades, family winemaking traditions have involved collaboration, time, know-how, and interest. “It takes so much work and organization. It’s anything but casual,” said DiNovo. REFINING THE PROCESS Even at young ages, Italian Americans who grew up to be winemakers took mental notes on how to improve family wines. Tom Mannello, vintner at Crystal Ridge Winery in Glastonbury, Connecticut, said his paternal grandfather used to press the grapes into a cake so hard “we could roll it out of the cellar. That made the wine bitter.” The seven basic steps of winemaking are harvesting, de-stemming, crushing, fermentation, malolactic fermentation, clarification, and bottling. In Mannello’s family, common mistakes included failing to destem, not adding cultured yeast or yeast nutrients, allowing natural malolactic fermentation to occur, and not adding sulfites. “They did keep their equipment and barrels cleaner than most of their contemporaries. They also avoided the common mistake of using spigots on their barrels. When the wine was ready, the entire barrel was emptied into gallon jugs,” said Mannello. Wine that is put into barrels with spigots is left open to oxidation. This can make the wine’s aroma, color, and flavor break down. Since wine slowly becomes more bitter as it oxidizes, a person drinking it may not notice the day-to-day changes, but by the time a barrel is drained, the last dregs can be vinegar. In 1972, when Mannello entered the U.S. Air Force, he was stationed at Beale Air Force Base in Marysville, California. The post is close to the Napa Valley. “That’s when I developed an interest in wine and started going on tours in Napa. I learned there’s a whole technical side to winemaking,” said Mannello. When Mannello left active duty in 1980, he returned home to Waterbury, Connecticut. Once again, he helped make the family wine. Yet he also started to make wine on his own using modern techniques. “I bought books and educated myself. Soon I joined AWS. Eventually I won a bronze medal for a Merlot. At the awards dinner, I met Ray Corsini, who was a legend in AWS. He became my mentor (and) we began making wine together. He taught me a lot of practical tips,” said Mannello. Gary DiRaffaele, who grew up in Harlem and now lives in Yonkers, said he too came from a family whose wine could have used fine-tuning. “My grandfather, who was from Sicily, used to buy cases of grapes and make an undrinkable red. I started developing an interest in wine around 2004,” said DiRaffaele. That same year, he joined AWS. In 2014, he won four awards for winemaking at the New York State Fair, including “Best Blush” for a 2011 Black Muscat, “Best Dessert” for a 2013 Muscat Canelli, “Best Red,” and “Best of Show” for Above: Ray Spaziani (left), brother of Gene Spaziani, Ray Corsini (center), and Tom Mannello (right), share wines together. Photo credit: Gene Spaziani Left: The label for the Mannello Family Winery. Photo credit: Tom Mannello
AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG 19 amateur wine. DiRaffaele prefers making white wines, which are improved by filtering the wine four to five times. Frank Renaldi, a winemaker and winemaking instructor, grew up in a winemaking family with Italian grandfathers on both sides. His paternal grandfather was from Sicily, while his maternal grandfather was from Umbria in central Italy. Today Renaldi, whose family hails from Norwich, Connecticut, makes wine making video tutorials through a collaboration with Musto Wine Grape Company in Hartford. Renaldi did not start drinking wine until he began making it as an adult. “By some point, I’d drifted away from the old Italian way of doing it, using natural yeast and not adjusting the numbers on the grapes. If the grapes have a lot of sugar, that results in a very sweet, highalcohol wine,” said Renaldi. He also realized quickly that sanitation is key to making good wine. Wine can get ruined by spoilage due to unsanitized equipment. Renaldi said his family practiced an old tradition when making red wine, which allowed for some different fruit flavor and nose. “Our family (used to throw) some white grapes into a batch of reds, one case of white grapes to 10 to 12 cases of red grapes,” said Renaldi. Dan Gisolfi, who joined AWS in 2009 and regularly enters competitions, retained the best parts of his Italian American winemaking heritage by forming a modern “winemaking family.” The group won “Best of Show” in the AWS amateur competition in 2011 for a 2010 Zinfandel/Cab Sauv. “(Our group) is made up of about 30 family members and friends in New York and Connecticut. They range in age from college kids to grandparents over 70. We have a core group of 12 major investors,” said Gisolfi. The group is primarily composed of Italian Americans. There are a few Irish American and Jewish American members. “The grapes come from the Suisun Valley in California and different parts of Washington state. We typically fill 12 to 18 barrels a year. This comes out to over 4,000 bottles of wine,” said Gisolfi. To facilitate the effort, the group cooperatively bought a crusher and destemmer, press, and bottling machine. “We age the wine between one year and three years. Some years crops are better than others, which we can’t control. We can set our recipes and procedures so that the wine matches the quality of the grapes,” said Gisolfi. Mannello, who took over making wine for his family approximately 20 years ago, is familiar with some individuals resisting changing to modern winemaking. “After I shared my wines and other AWS members’ wines, it didn’t take long to convert family members who said, “We never made wine like that in 80 years.” After only one year of modern winemaking, no one wanted to go back to the old traditional methods. I let the wine speak for itself,” said Mannello. Left: Alexander DiRaffaele, Gary's son (left), Dylan DiRaffaele, Gary's grandson (center), and Gary DiRaffaele (right) make wine together. Photo credit: Gary DiRaffaele Right: Frank Renaldi, winemaker and winemaking instructor, gasses the top of a carboy. Photo credit: Frank Renaldi Jessica Zimmer is a news reporter, attorney, and educator based in northern California. She has worked in journalism for over 20 years. She covers a wide variety of industries, including alcoholic beverage production, transportation, law, and the arts. About the Author
AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG Carmenere By Gene Spaziani in Chile idway through the 19th century, Carmenere was one of several noble vines planted extensively in Medoc near Bordeaux. Carmenere was a key component in the appellation’s great wine wheelhouse until the scourge of phylloxera devastated France in 1860, changing the grape’s destiny. Just like Chilean viticulture today, the history of Carmenere is rooted in the country of supreme wine tradition and development: France. Great Medoc wines have always arisen from the intricate blending of several different grape varieties. Cultivated within a single vineyard, under the chateaux principle, the proportions of grapes used from the range of varieties available bring about unique wines. Vineyards in 19th-century Bordeaux were planted with Carmenere and other local varieties such as Malbec, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. In 1860, phylloxera attacked and laid waste French vineyards before helpless winegrowers' eyes. Bordeaux had to start afresh. Replanting began in earnest using pest and specifically, phylloxera resistant American rootstock. Carmenere, like every other variety, had to adapt not only the new conditions but also to more demanding and controlled vineyard practices that needed to resuscitate a broken industry. Carmenere performed poorly. In the Bordeaux climate, Carmenere proved sensitive at fruit set to the cold spring weather, which reduced yields and, as this grape variety has to be harvested so late, the regions’ early autumnal rains impaired grape quality. So, Carmenere was overlooked by the region's resurgent industry when choosing which varieties to cultivate. It was simply forgotten, not for the quality of its wines, but because of its difficult nature. Vineyard owner and Medoc magistrate, Armand d’Armailhac said of Carmenere, “Its flavor is excellent. The taste is even better than the two Cabernets; the wine it produces reflects these qualities. It is mellow, yet full and rich in body. It mixes a rounder flavor, it lasts about as long, and with age, improves toward perfection.” A CHILE RECEPTION Prosperous, visionary entrepreneurs convinced of Chile’s outstanding potential for viticulture traveled to Bordeaux in search of the best red grapes and brought many back with them (in the 1850s). Several varieties, including Carmemere arrived in a big mix of vines to be planted in the Bordeaux style, emulating the French Chateaux use of various grape types in a single vineyard. Like many European immigrants, Carmenere headed for far off lands in South America looking for a sunny climate and fertile soils. Unwittingly it saved itself from assured extinction. Chile, a naturally protected land geographically, is extraordinarily diverse. In local lore, when God created the Earth, on the final day it only remained to give life to this long, thin stretch of land, so he gathered up all the natural beauties left over from the rest of the planet and thus shaped the diversity of this singular country. Divine intervention, along with importing disease and pest-free vines, has led to Chile being the only country in the world not to suffer phylloxera’s 20
AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG 21 devastation. The pest has never managed to traverse Chile’s insurmountable natural defenses. It has not managed to cross the majestic Andes mountains, nor the Pacific Ocean nor the Alacama Desert. Antarctica blocks passage from the south. In addition to strong geographic barriers, the exceptional and stable climate of long day summers provides this land a natural antidote to vineyard diseases, which has never escalated out of control in Chile. Carmenere found its new home in sun-soaked, naturally protected valleys. Charmed by the sun, Carmenere flourishes here and yields its finest fruit. Carmenere was phased out and replaced with Merlot in Bordeaux; in Chile, however, Carmenere became known as a late Merlot clone. Here it was also referred to as Chilean Merlot, given the characteristics of its aromatically fruity and spicy wine—sweet and soft in tannins. Carmenere, nevertheless, belongs in the Cabernet family. One of the first pointers linking the parentage of the two after observing the similarity in the shape of the leaves, was that in France, Carmenere is also known as Grande Vidure, where Cabernet Sauvignon is classified as Petite Vidure, due to the difference in the size of the grape. In Chile, Carmenere was mainly planted in the sunny Rapel and Maule valleys. The vine demanded uncommon care in the vineyard. Yields had to be controlled and grapes insisted on time to ripen to avoid excessively green notes. SIPTALK "Carmenere, like every other variety, had to adapt not only the new conditions but also to more demanding and controlled vineyard practices that needed to resuscitate a broken industry." Photo courtesy of: chile.travel.com
AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG Captivated by the long, sunny summers, Carmenere faithfully delivered its best fruit, which rounded the world labeled Merlot. Its intrinsic friendliness, however, never failed to seduce. Jean Bertrand Delmas, in his Ampelographical assay at Chateau Haut-Brion in 1989, delivered the following description of Carmenere: “Carmenere’s wine resemble those of Merlot for their roundness and suppleness, and they approach Cabernet Sauvignon for their aromas and tannins. The wine is long in the mouth, very harmonious and presents and ensemble of exceptional qualities.” In the late 1980s. Chilean winegrowers joined the global drive of selling more markedly varietal wines and works hard at classifying each type of grape and identifying the best soil to maximize each one’s potential. A CLONE ALL ITS OWN In 1994, French leaf specialist Jean Michel Boursiquot came to the Sixth Latin American Viticulture and Enology Congress in Chile and recognized the late clone as, in fact, Carmenere.Since then, Caremenere has reappeared in world markets and its development in Chile has been crucial to most of today’s great Chilean red blends. Patrick Leon, winemaker at Chateau Mouton de Rothschild, Opus One and Almaviva noted, “The proportion of Carmenere in Almaviva has grown significantly. It is now the second wine, after Cabernet Sauvignon, and is more abundant than the rest of the better know varieties from Bordeaux, such as Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Merlot. With the Carmenere, we get more maturity in the tannins and a rounder, more elegant, less wild wine.” Carmenere, once rooted in France, now Chilean at heart, prefers its fruit to ripen slowly under the sun from spring right through to fall from the moment the first shoots appear until it is harvested. If the vines does not get sufficient sunshine, it will produce green, vegetative wines. Sometimes, the ripe tannins and sweetness of the fruit make it seem as though the grapes are ready to pick, but it is Carmenere’s aromas that dictate precisely when to harvest. Carmenere is noble and demanding when it comes to extracting quality. It prefers a balanced soil, one not too poor and not too fertile. It likes a soil that lets it develop gradually, at its own pace. Weekly water retaining, clay loam soils need to be managed until shortly before harvesting so its fruit does not lose the distinctive qualities of the variety. Carmenere, originally French, but now Chilean at heart, gathers up the affability and warmth of the land and offers it the world through its ripe fruit. About the Author Gene Spaziani is the author of The Home Winemaker’s Companion, a retired college professor and administrator and an award-winning home winemaker. He can be reached via email at:[email protected] Photo courtesy of: thedrinksbusiness.com
AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG 23 Photo courtesy of vinepair.com Photo courtesy of visitnapavalley.com. Photo by Bob McClenahan COVERSTORY irst, everyone is agreed that Cabernet Franc is not going to replace Cabernet Sauvignon as the Numero Uno red wine of Napa Valley – not going there.That said, there are several premium winegrowers in Napa who are now making single variety Cab Francs, and would make more of it if the grapes were available and were more affordable. This development is mostly due to increased consumer demand, itself a reflection of an awakened nationwide interest in the grape, partly a result of the attention the variety has received over the past 30 years on the East Coast, where Cabernet Franc has replaced Cabernet Sauvignon as the premium Bordeaux varietal wine. “Cabernet Franc will never be as big as a Cabernet Sauvignon or as sexy as a Merlot,” says Laura Díaz Muñoz, winemaker and general manager of Ehlers Estate in St. Helena. “Cabernet Franc lies in the middle. Right now it’s the cool kid in the neighborhood.” Tom Gamble of Gamble Family Vineyards in Oakville adds the varietal is profiting from two trends: “There has been increased interest among wineries in all Bordeaux varieties – but mainly at the high-end level,” he says, “and Cabernet Franc is at the high-end level.” It should also be noted there is no sibling rivalry between the two Sauvignons – simply because they are not siblings. A little “23-and-me-style” DNA background might be of interest and importance at this juncture. As much as we have fixated on Cabernet Sauvignon as a superior wine grape – which it is – very few people realize that Cabernet Franc is Cabernet Sauvignon’s daddy. Just as Cab Franc is also the father of Merlot, which means Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon are half-brothers – same father, different mothers. Interest is growing in Napa Valley’s Cabernet Franc as a high-priced varietal By Roger Morris napa, s Cab Other
AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG 21 Parenting style Why is this important? If nothing else because Cabernet Franc often doesn’t get the respect it deserves and is thought of my many as “only” as one of the small group of Bordeaux blending grapes, somewhat like Petit Verdot. It also helps to explain why Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Sauvignon Blanc and Malbec all tend to grow well in the same areas, especially in Bordeaux and Napa Valley. They are all genetically related. Sauvignon Blanc – the white grape – is mother to Cabernet Sauvignon, while Merlot’s mother is the little known grape, Magdeleine Noire des Charentes. But even though Magdeleine Noir is not that well-known, she is also mother to another Bordeaux red darling of consumers, Malbec, whose father is the equally obscure Prunelard. There is no doubt that the Bordeaux family of grapes is a royal one, whose juicy blood lines make some of the best red and white wines in the world. Within the family, Cabernet Sauvignon has traditionally been the mosticonic grape, especially in Pauillac, Saint-Julien, Margaux and Graves on the Left Bank, although there is often a hefty amount of the other grapes in most Left Bank Cab blends. It is on the Right Bank that Cabernet Franc has always been highly regarded, along with Merlot, in Saint-Émilion and Pomerol. Merlot traditionally was the more-valued of the two partners, although it is slowly receding as it does not do as well as climate change makes the region hotter and drier. Of course, Cab Sauv has also blossomed in Napa Valley over the past 50 years, nudging out once-popular plantings of Merlot and Zinfandel. It was also the wine critics’ darling, and hence collectors bought it up, many with an eye on watching it appreciate and then re-selling it at auction on the secondary market. But in recent years there has been more interest in Franc because, as Gamble notes, it is different – a newer wine to explore – and it is relatively expensive, important to the collector clientele that often equates cost with quality, which, in this case, is somewhat true. Additionally, younger drinkers have proven to be less interested in points and ratings than their older siblings and parents are. Their tastes in general are different as well, preferring freshness and less alcohol. Photos (page 24-25) courtesy of kobrandwineandspirits.com and Sequoia Grove Winery
AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG A refreshing change “To the consumer, when Cabernet Franc is given as an option to taste or buy, there tends to be a lot of interest because it is something different,” says Jeff Cole, winemaker at Sullivan Rutherford Estate. “From a style perspective, Cabernet Franc tends to be a bit smaller in structure and have more freshness than big, extracted Cabernet Sauvignons—which can be refreshing.” Part of the popularity of Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon through the years is that, in many ways, it grows better there than it does in Bordeaux. Even Bordeaux producers have long conceded their grapes often did not get fully ripe in many vintages, resulting in anemic wines with green or vegetal flavors. So, wine lovers of the world came to embrace the ripeness of Napa Valley Cabs – bold and fruit-forward, high in alcohol and sometimes Portlike with monster tannins. Now, it seems, global warming is giving Cab Franc its place in the sun, so to speak, especially in Napa Valley. Often, it has been relegated to the cooler areas of the valley, where Cabernet Sauvignon doesn’t ripen, and many winemakers prized it in blends to add acidity and freshness to the burlier Cab Sauvignon while also diluting potential alcohol.“In some areas, Cabernet Franc expresses itself better than Cabernet Sauvignon,” Gamble says, “and I’ve had outstanding Cabernet Franc from [southernmost] Carneros to [northernmost] Calistoga. But not much from the eastern hills, where they tend to be blockbusters, with the exception of Michael Mondavi’s ‘Continuum.’ It grows well in heavier soils, and the area from Oak Knoll to Rutherford is especially great.” Then there is the matter that Franc is more difficult to grow in general. “Cabernet Franc does tend to set a large amount of fruit, which can inhibit ripening, so paying attention and being diligent in farming practices is crucial to ensure the vines are balanced,” Cole says. Muñoz agrees. “Cabernet Franc can be more vigorous than Cabernet Sauvignon,” she says. “Clusters are usually bigger in size and can present shoulders and bigger berries. Detailed farming is needed with a wise irrigation and nutritional program, as well as some thinning.” Gamble says, “Cabernet Franc is significantly more difficult to grow, and it is much more susceptible to virus than Cabernet Sauvignon,” adding that its vines can even fall victim to virus from neighboring vineyards of Cabernet Sauvignon, even when the virus is dormant in those vines. These challenges – and this may come as a surprise – make Cabernet Franc grapes more expensive per ton in Napa Valley than Cabernet Sauvignon. According to the annual Napa County Agricultural Crops Report, the average price per ton of Cabernet Sauvignon in 2021 was $9,304 while Cabernet Sauvignon was “only” $8,083 – 15 percent less. (By comparison, Merlot grapes brought only have as much - $4,032 per ton - and Zinfandel was $4,435.) Nor is this a recent trend reflecting the increased interest in Cabernet Franc. Even when used as a blending grape, Cabernet Franc is highly valued. In 2010, for example, Cabernet Franc fetched $5,236 per ton while Cabernet Sauvignon was $4,453 – a 17 percent differential. It is also surprising that the relative proportion of acreage planted to Cabernet Franc to Cabernet Sauvignon has not significantly changed during the same period. In 2010, Cabernet Sauvignon plantings of 19,557 acres made up more than half of the valley’s 34,732 acres of red grape vineyards, while Cabernet Franc was a measly 1,164 acres. In 2021, Cabernet Franc inched up to 1,239 acres, while Cabernet Sauvignon grew to 24,522. Of course, these plantings and grape price ratios may in time change as demand continues to increase and as global warming makes it difficult to keep the sugar and thus alcohol down in Cabernet Sauvignon – at a time the Cabernet Franc may be reaching the apogee of tasteful balance of fruit and acidity. “At Sullivan, I currently grow a small amount of Cabernet Franc with the intention of planting more over the next couple of years at our Soda Canyon property under the guidance of our vineyard manager Mike Wolf,” Cole says. “Cabernet Franc has found a home both as a varietal bottling as well as a blending component in the Sullivan portfolio.” “We definitely have a huge following around our Cabernet Franc,” Muñoz says. “From connoisseurs, to sporadic wine consumers, I've not only seen more acceptance – it’s also becoming a favorite. I think it’s because we get better weather conditions to achieve full ripeness during farming, which was lacking in previous years with styles that were linear and green. Now we can accomplish a more aromatic style with a full body.” Gamble Family makes a varietal Cab Franc, “and every year it sells out,” Gamble says. “Younger generations like to explore Cabernet Franc. It fits into that category of ‘not your parents’ wine.’” However, he doesn’t see all of his – or the valley’s – Cab Franc going into varietal wines, as Cabernet Sauvignon still commands the highest wine prices by far, even if the grapes do not, so Cab Franc will still be in demand to blend into Cab Sauv. An older generation of readers might be tempted to compare the relationship of the two Cabernets to that of two stars in a famous basketball dynasty. Would the Chicago Bulls have been so great if Michael Jordan didn’t have Scottie Pippen as a teammate? “Cabernet Franc makes Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon more elegant,” Gamble says. “So, Cabernet Franc will continue to help Cabernet Sauvignon retain its king-like status. In addition to the Journal, Roger Morris writes about wine, food and travel for numerous publications including World of Fine Wine, Wine Enthusiast, Drinks Business and Beverage Media. During the first two decades of this century, the Delaware-based Morris has made more than 100 reporting trips to wine regions on five continents. About the Author 25
26 AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG Photo courtesy of: wsetglobal.com or wine enthusiasts obsessed with training and expanding our palettes, the global pandemic threw up thorns. Tasting venues of every sort were closed. While we could still buy wine–often with convenient curbside pickup–conducting comparative tastings alone at home wasn’t efficient or effective, at least not for me. So I turned to the internet, where I had company. Virtual wine classes were popping like corks at a wedding. I could watch furloughed sommeliers drink and evaluate wine on YouTube or Instagram, and I could try new streaming services such as SommTV for wine documentaries and tasting shows. While interesting, those were not the full sensory experiences I really wanted. The second year into the pandemic, still waiting for in-person tasting opportunities to resume, I began searching for a way to continue my wine education by my preferred method: tasting and comparing notes with knowledgeable human guides. The Seattle-based Wine Folly was getting into online courses, with recommendations on wine one could purchase to accompany the lessons, but the initial content was for beginners. What I wanted was a course from the London-based Wine & Spirit Education Trust, or WSET, which is the gold standard for professional wine certifications. The WSET offers courses for wine enthusiasts as well as industry professionals. In 2019, I had considered a WSET Level 2 weekend class at a wine school in North Carolina but I couldn’t justify the cost when I could access complimentary education and tastings while shopping for wine, traveling or attending events. The pandemic changed my calculations. I began searching for reopened WSET schools and stumbled upon the online offerings of the Napa Valley Wine Academy. Could an online course deliver an adequate tasting experience? It was getting positive reviews, so I was intrigued enough to investigate. WINE EDUCATION ONLINE Founded in 2011, NVWA is a two-time winner of WSET’s Educator of the Year award. It offers classes at its physical locations in Napa and Tampa and has offered online courses since 2014, so it was positioned to turbo-charge those when the pandemic hit. One crucial component for a WSET course is to taste wines with the instructor, and NVWA was the only online school I could find that included a tasting kit with the course. I thought about it, and thought about it some more, and finally as 2021 was drawing to a close but the pandemic was not, I enrolled in the course as a holiday gift to myself. The books and tasting kit of 12 100ml bottles were shipped to my door. I received login instructions for the portal, where I found a detailed syllabus and schedule of live webinars for the five-week course. WSET Level 2 does not require the completion of WSET Level 1 as a prerequisite. Those who have some experience with wine and know the difference between, say, Cabernet Sauvignon and Sauvignon Blanc, can dive right in. I had skimmed through a Level 1 book and knew I could skip it, and although some commenters suggested skipping Level 2 as well, I was hesitant to start with Level 3. I made the right call. As soon as I opened the book, I discovered I had a lot to learn. The webinars utilized the Zoomish technology of which many of us are now familiar, plus a smartphone app to provide instant tabulated feedback on questions that would have been accomplished with a show of hands in a physical class, such as “who thinks this wine has high acidity?” Wine School Curious for the by sharon flesher f
AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG 27 WINEEDUCATION My class had several dozen students, yet it felt intimate and personal. The instructor, Desiree Harrison-Brown, was outstanding at answering all questions and making us feel we were in a room together. If anything, the large class size was a bonus because it reduced the likelihood that tasting notes could be skewed by an unusual palate or two. Also, the ability to ask questions via the chat feature is helpful for shy students. The tasting kit was crucial in overcoming any disadvantage of online learning. We were tasting the same wines together using the WSET’s trademarked Systematic Approach to Tasting, or SAT (much more enjoyable than that SAT from high school). For the first time in my 40-year career of wine drinking, I was able to calibrate my palette to a standard. I learned, for example, that I have a particularly sensitive nose. A wine of pronounced intensity that most students detect with a glass at chest level will reach me from the navel, or maybe from across the room. Tasting is a key activity for WSET 2, but the exam itself has no tasting component. That isn’t required until level 3. WSET 2 focuses on 30 of the most common varietals and the best known regions for wine production. In the United States, for example, the included regions are Napa, Sonoma, Santa Barbara County and Oregon. In France, Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, Alsace, the Loire Valley and the Rhône are covered; the Languedoc-Roussillon, which I adore, is not mentioned, although it is presumed to be included in a broad category called “Southern France,” which receives a couple of paragraphs in the textbook. Italy, South Africa, Australia, New Zealand and Hungary receive attention. In other words, WSET 2 focuses on the wines one is most likely to find at the bottle shop or on a restaurant menu. That’s not to say it’s basic. The book may appear relatively thin, but it is densely packed with wine information. If one were to highlight facts that may appear on the exam, the text would be covered with yellow. Studying for the exam required me to memorize details such as which Australian subregions are cooled by ocean breezes and the nuances of the German classification system. Still, the most nerve-wracking part of the exam for me was the technical setup. The exam is administered by WSET staff and invigilated, which is the British term for proctoring. My exam was online. The invigilators observed me through screen sharing on my laptop, my webcam and a separate app on my cell phone, which had to be positioned to show me at my laptop throughout the test. I had to video my room to prove I had a cleared desk and no books, posters, bottles or other wine-related material in the view. I was more worried that I would fail the invigilation challenge than that I would miss too many questions on the exam. A few weeks later, my worries ceased when I was notified by e-mail that I passed with distinction. I celebrated with a 2018 Mosel Riesling Trocken which I rated on the WSET’s BLIC assessment as outstanding based on its balance, length, intensity and complexity. I believe I learned more about wine in those five weeks than in the previous four decades. Previously a journalist for United Press International (UPI), the News and Observer (Raleigh, N.C.) and Congressional Quarterly, Sharon Flesher now writes independently from Traverse City, Mich. She is an enthusiastic student of wine and she reads too much. Find her on the web at twofemmes.com About the Author The AWS is an approved program provider for Wine & Spirit Educational Trust, one of the leading global certifications for those passionate about wine or pursuing a career involving wine or spirits. Experience the program and work at your own pace from the comfort of your own home or office. For more information, email [email protected]
REMEMBERING STEVEN KOLPAN PAUL WAGNER’S 4TH BOOK We wine writers are a strange group. We are an amiable lot of fishwives and gadflies. Each generation thinks that we have discovered fire. Most writers reporters, novelists, playwrights, and poets have heroes they read about when they were young. Those whom they want to emulate. Hemingway. Fitzgerald. Woolf. Cather. Even foodies quote Beard, Fisher, and Child. The beer folks and whiskey folk recognize Michael Jackson. But we wine writers seem to always find the new penny without the proverbial help of the previous shoulders whom we unknowingly stand upon. A case in point was Steven Kolpan, who just recently passed away. Steven Kolpan was a titan in the wine writing genre. It was an odd passing. He’d not been well for some time. He had stopped writing. Our last correspondence was three or four years ago. But when he passed, there was little fanfare. Read the rest of Carlo de Vito’s article here: eastcoastwineries.blogspot.com/2022/11/steven-kolpan-appreciation-of-titan-of.html There are five trails that lead into the Granite Gorge of the Mokelumne River, but none of them connect to each other. It seems as if there are five ways in, and no way out. But when Ranger Dan Courtwright offers to help restore some of those old trails, he discovers more than he expected. And is lucky to get out alive. Paul Wagner, 2018 AWS Award of Merit winner, has a fourth adventure book out—Granite Gorge—a Dan Courtwright mystery. The books have been getting some nice reviews: “Paul Wagner’s love of the outdoors and his experience hiking and camping takes readers right into the mountains. The zippy writing keeps the story moving along the Sierra trails, through the lineup of interesting, quirky characters, and down the winding mystery path until the satisfying end.”—Rick Kushman, best-selling NY Times author and commentator for Capital Public Radio. You can get them on Amazon, in either paperback or Kindle. By Jim Rink New Noteworthy 28 AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG & Photo courtesy of: keyserfuneralservice.com Cover Photo courtesy of: amazon.com. Image does not represent actual product, for illustration purposes only.
29 WineAmerica will soon publish its 2023 Government Affairs Agenda, with lots of detailed information about the issues we’ll be working on, but until then here’s a sneak preview. • National Vineyard Survey:Now that the National Agricultural Statistics Service (NASS) of USDA has officially been “encouraged” to conduct this much-needed survey, we will be working through our Board of Directors, State and Regional Associations Advisory Council, and members to urge their Senators and Representatives to contact USDA about actually getting this going. • Farm Bill: We will also be seeking to insert additional language about future vineyard surveys in the 2023 Farm Bill, which covers the next five years, and we will advocate for more research funding, export promotion, value-added grants, disaster relief assistance, and other measures. Most of what we read about—and, in the case of wine journalists, what we write about—global warming is from the mile-high view of the science of climate change, how it is transforming weather patterns, what the experts are doing to help winegrowers adapt and what the future will hold. All this information is undoubtedly helpful both for the trade and consumers. What Philadelphia-based writer Brian Freedman has done in his book, Crushed: How Climate Change Is Altering the Way We Drink (Rowman & Littlefield), is to make global warming more immediate – what climate change is doing now on a very granular level by telling the stories of what is happening on the ground to people growing grapes and making wines. In a sense, the book’s subtitle, “How Climate Change Is Altering the Way We Drink,” might better read “How Climate Change Is Altering What We Drink.” Is his introduction, Freedman advises, “This isn’t book of unrelenting struggle. Over the years I’ve learned that the people who choose to work in wine and spirit production are some of the smartest and most resourceful people in the world.” Then we get to meet them. In each of eight chapters, the author tells personal stories of the devastation of global warming and how winegrowers are responding. Some are dramatic recreations, such as his opening chapter • USPS Shipping Equity Act: This would allow the post office to ship wine (and beer and spirits) directly to consumers, providing healthy competition for UPS and FedEx, and also broadening the potential market for wine. • Agricultural Labor Reform: This issue has been around forever, but that doesn’t mean we should give up, as our industry requires a legal, skilled, and motivated workforce. • Regulatory Issues: The major one for 2023 will involve the possibility of requiring wine labels to include nutritional information, ingredient listing, and caloric levels, as was proposed but shelved many years ago. on fires in California. In it, he tells how Jamie and Kristen Kutch, owners of Kutch Wines in Sonoma, are interrupted while sipping an expensive white Burgundy during a post-harvest vacation in Half Moon Bay by a call telling them wildfires are threatening their winery. They rush to get back, but are prohibited for safety reasons from entering the area. What has happened, and how will the Kutches respond to prevent it from happening again? Other chapters delve into flooding at the Castle & Key distillery in Kentucky, midnight hail on May night at Château Lassègue in Saint-Émilion and winter frost at Spicewood in the Texas Hill County. Some chapters are more general, such as those of Israel trying to deal with the desert and South Africa trying to deal the still lingering effects of racial injustice. But sometimes the response to global warming is to take advantage of it in areas that were until recently too cold to make fine wine but are now proving to be almost ideal, such as Patagonia in Argentina and the south of England in Europe. Not that Freedman ignores the nuts and bolts among the bells and whistles. He delves deeply into historical background and scatters statistics across the pages. If his approach does at times seem to be as granular as the sands of the Negev, he has a novelist’s approach to his storytelling. If the reader is truly interested in the subject, it will be fast reading. AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG INDUSTRYNEWS 2023 WINE AMERICA AGENDA WINE & GLOBAL WARMING Cover Photo courtesy of: amazon.com. Image does not represent actual product, for illustration purposes only. Photo courtesy of: wineamerica.org
THE AWS IS PROUD TO BE A The AWS is an approved program provider for Wine & Spirit Educational Trust, one of the leading global certifications for those passionate about wine or pursuing a career involving wine or spirits. Experience the program and work at your own pace from the comfort of your own home or office. For more information, email Annmarie Morse at [email protected] Get Intimate Insights Into The Wine World Of BORDEAUX RHÔNE AUSTRIA BURGUNDY / CHAMPAGNE GERMANY ALSACE - drink ultra premium wines - dine at Michelin level, local taverns - meet the owners/winemakers - share exquisite wine pairing meals with them right at the estate - roam through vineyards and cellars - immerse yourself in French, German, Austrian culture. www.ombiasypr.com [email protected] “This book contains techniques and methods for the home winemaker but would also be helpful to winemakers of any experience level from beginner to advanced commercial winemakers. It is thorough, complete, incredibly well researched, and contains the latest research on wine testing and analytical methods…this book leaves nothing out.” – drew horton, Enology Specialist, University of Minnesota Grape Breeding & Enology Project 6x9” | illustrated | 614 pages ISBN: 978-1-55065-563-6 $24.95 (trade paper) Distributed by Independent Publishers Group ISBN: 978-1-55065-593-3 $59.95 (cloth) 30 AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG
AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG 31 Advertise in the AWS Wine Journal Today! Contact us today to place your ad in the Wine Journal When you advertise in the Wine Journal, you align your brand with the oldest and largest consumer based wine appreciation organization in North America. Our articles are fresh, creative, and educational. We continually work with our writers to deliver articles that educate our readers and keep them engaged in the wine industry. Issues include articles on... • People, places, events, and trends in the wine industry • The art and science of winemaking for amateurs and professionals • Fascinating facts and information about wine and wine tasting • Travel stories from romantic wineries to exotic locals • Food, recipes, and complimentary wine pairings to please any palate Colleen Reardon 888-297-9070 [email protected] ADVERTISE WITH US! Who Reads the Journal? The Wine Journal reaches a targeted market of sophisticated and knowledgeable wine consumers. Ad Reservation & Remittance American Wine Society Attn: Colleen Reardon PO Box 889 Scranton, PA 18501 888-AWS-9070 fax: 570-344-4825 [email protected] Ad Submission & Technical Questions Blue Flower Graphic Design Briana Fedorko 570-852-0744 [email protected] The American Wine Society Wine Journal is the official journal of the American Wine Society, a non-profit educational organization dedicated to the education of its members and the general public on all aspects of wine. The Wine Journal is a quarterly publication and is sent to all AWS members, either electronically or in print. 35% 60% make wine buy at least ten cases of wine yearly 98% of members drink wine every week 60% travel to wine regions at least once per year @blueflowergd • Brochures • Business Cards • Flyer’s • Invitations • Websites • Logo Design • Brand Development • Banners • Yard Signs • Stickers • Decals Briana Fedorko Owner/Graphic Designer 570-852-0744 [email protected] blueflowergd.com are you enjoying the journal? Let us know! Leave us a 5-star review on our Facebook! Looking for some help with your next creative project? We’ve got you covered! No job is too small! Contact us today! 20% off new designs PLUS extra 15% off for AWS members
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