Final pdf of cover and all the inside pp

Flavours & Fragrances

Fragraw ncr el ds

COMPLETE INSIGHT OF THE FLAVOUR & FRAGRANCE MARKET

AUGUST-SEPTEMBER 2018

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vol. i, no. 4 | AUG-SEPT 2018

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CONTENTS VOL. I, NO. 4 | AUG-SEPT 2018

P.7 Editor’s Note
2 Natural calamity– a major hurdle in the growth of
P.33 F&F industry
P.35
Expert View
3 Fragrance and avours: tracing it’s intrinsic relationship
between man and natural resources

Flavours & Fragrances
7 Bewitching fragrances of exotic powders linger all
summer in India

Expert View
9 Essential Oils for Flavours
(Global development & trends)

Business
14 Indian Perfume Houses: Present and Future

Expert View
16 Odour Masking: A bird’s eye view

Business
20 Firmenich acquires functional ingredients

producer Campus

Expert View
21 Essential oils applications safety – con icting views for

consumer use

Flavours & Fragrances
31 Lavender Farming– A win-win proposition

Flavours & Fragrances
33 Fragrances market–global industry size, share, trends,

analysis, and forecasts 2012 - 2018

Flavours & Fragrances
35 Neem; the bitter path to good health

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Editor’s Note

Natural calamity– a major hurdle
in the growth of F&F industry

Publisher & Chief Editor This monsoon has only hurt industry
Melwyn Fernandes and like all others, the Flavours and
Fragrances industry in India must
Associate Editor be feeling the heat too. Bridge collapses,
Lidwina Fernandes road collapses, building collapses and all
unfortunate incidents have shaken the
Editorial Advisory Board foundations of industry apart from being
Dr. G. S. Ranade a human tragedy the likes of which, the
Dr. Sitaram Dixit country has never seen before.
Dr. Jyoti Marwah
Even as I write, the state of Kerala is
Dr. Renuka Thergaonkar living its worst nightmare of 100 years.
Dr. Geetanjali Ranade Unprecedented monsoon fury has
plunged the state into chaos and all three
Marketing & Advertising defence arms are working 24x7 to bring
Jasvinder Soor relief and rescue people from impossible situations. The oods in Kerala have
hit supply of spices as Kerala being the main source of the spice market, and
Media & Activations prices of all spices from Kerala have gone up by up to 100 per cent. Traders say
Brenda Subramani they do not see any immediate relief from the price spike as crops in Kerala
have been severely hit due to the ood. Kerala, which is known as the land of
Layout/Graphic Designing spices, is the largest producer and supplier of popular aromatic spices.
Akash Prajapati
Flavors and fragrances are after all, the luxuries of happier times. People enjoy
Subscription & Distribution them at leisure and times of relaxation. This August leaves me little cheer to
Ulhas Lad share with you dear readers. However, for academic reasons, I would like to
shift my focus to the F&F segment here.
Disclaimer: All material printed in this publication is the sole
property of Flavours and Fragrances World. Printed material A most recent analysis shows that globally, avors and fragrances industry is
text, photos, graphics contained in this publication is from doing good. The industry as it stands today, is propped up by key players as
contributors and not necessarily of the publisher. Despite the competition in this market is high, and the four largest companies occupy
careful checking, we accept no liability or responsibility more than half of the total market share. The global industry is led by leading
to any person for any costs, losses or damages caused by companies such as Givaudan (Switzerland), International Flavors & Fragrances
printed material. (US), Firmenich (Switzerland), Symrise (Germany), Frutarom (Israel), Sensient
(US), MANE (France), Takasago (Japan), T.Hasegawa (Japan), and Robertet
Integrral Business Exhibition & Media LLP (France).

Phone: +91 9930817579, +91 7700044220 Asia Paci c is estimated to be the largest market for food avors in 2018.
Email: [email protected] This is due to the rising consumption of beverages, confectionery, dairy,
and bakery products increasing in this region. China is witnessing economic
Website: www.ibem-india.com development and rise in disposable income, due to which there is an increase
in consumption of processed food items. This leads to the growth of the food

avors industry.

I am sure, ‘God’s own country’ will soon recover and so will the F&F industry,
from the after e ects of this devastating natural calamity.

Melwyn Fernandes

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VOL. I, NO. 4 | AUG-SEPT 2018

Fragrance and flavours: tracing
it’s intrinsic relationship between
man and natural resources

Prof. Dr. Jyoti Marwah
Director Himalayan Rejuvenation with High Altitude Aromatic and Medicinal Plants (HARI)
Former Principal and HOD History ICLEs MJ College, Vashi, Navi Mumbai (University of Mumbai)
Member Academic Council FFDC (MSME) Kannauj

Primitive man saw in every plant a gift from the creator, a and consisting of materials of a scattered nature.”
secret to be understood and to use plants for health and
to win favour of the Gods. Gradually he understood and The earlier texts are not mentioned in the two treatises but it
discovered the use of herbs and spices for preserving food, has been inferred that these treatises belong to the same period
for aiding digestion and for enhancing taste. Evidenced from of time as Varahmira’s ‘Brahtsamhita’ v (500 AD), ‘Agni Purana’
archaeo-botany, ethno-botany, study of material culture, scripts, (between 800 to 900 AD)vi and Someswara’s ‘Manasollasa’ (1130
inscriptions, seals and work by archaeologists like Ernest Mackay AD)vii. Vatsayana in Kama Sutra refers to it as one of the sixty-four
and John Marshall and later by Rovesti a rich world of fayence subsidiary arts connected with erotic.
vessels for expensive perfumes, incenses, powders and pastes
since ancient times has been recovered from Mohenjo-Daro. Gandhashastra the Indian science of odour was a well-
established science and art using fragrance to make cosmetics
Gandhashastra in India or Greek word aromatai, Japanese word which focused on the methods and the uses of aromatic
kadoii, Chinese word heangiii refers to the science and art of ingredients (Gandhdravya) thus making it an integral part of the
fragrance. Perfumery remains to be an art and a profession till Indian Materia Medica. This had been highlighted by P.K. Gode
today. Science and Technology have added newer dimensions in his works titled Studies in Cultural History of India vol. I. The
to it making it the most desired and remunerative eld for Indian Gandhashastra or the science of odour is part of Indian
commerce, trade and resource generation. medical science or Ayurveda. Consequently, the history of every
aromatic ingredient (Gandhdravya) is part of the Indian Materia
However, it cannot be denied that Aromatic Culture is as old as Medica, hence Dr. P. K. Gode has used the term Gandhashastra
Mankind. “The degree of excellence and re nement of cosmetics to mean ‘science of cosmetics and perfumery’ and ‘gandhayukti’
and fragrances at any given period of civilization remains to be as ‘art of preparing di erent cosmetics and perfumery’.
the index of the cultural development of that period” observed
Dr. P. K. Gode, an Indologist of repute from Bhandarkar Oriental Perfumers stamps or mudrika called ‘Gandhikanama’ of 2nd B.C.
Research Institute (BORI). Perfumery has evolved with time to which were made of copper, have been found at Kosambi (a
become a valued yardstick of measurement of progress and prosperous city between 390 BC till 600 AD), has established the
development of any civilization since the ancient times. fact that aromatic culture was well advanced and contributed
substantially to the economy.
Two treatises – ‘Gandhasara’ of Gangadhara and ‘Gandhavada’
(Anonymous) with a commentary in Marathi, composed Aromatics and Religion
sometime between 1200-1600 AD, based on earlier text, some
of which are partly extinct todayiv, were accidently recovered Perfumes have enriched our lives and of those of our ancestors.
by Dr. P.K. Gode. Gandhasara records sixty-four verses on Creations by these perfumers have been used in temples,
preparation of ‘dhoops’ and ‘gandhajal’ of ve sorts. A glossary palaces and homes. The above mentioned observation explains
entirely devoted to the aromatic ingredients, ‘Gandhadravya’ the intrinsic relationship between aromatic culture, ecology
is found in chapter 3 of the treatise on ‘Gandhashastra’, by and inadvertently its role in evolving civilizations. Gradually, the
Gangadhara. Gangadhar calls himself ‘Kovida’ meaning an widespread use of perfumes had led to the rise of a specialized
expert in the science of cosmetics and perfumery, which he has class of artisans who took to the trade and manufacture of
described as being “di cult to comprehend, vast in its scope cosmetics and perfumers as their occupation. Perfumery
ranges from being a simple mix of some basic raw material to a

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Expert View

complex blend of distillates and perfumed products. Containers Mahabharata also mention perfumes, cosmetics and incense.
have been traced through excavation at various archaeological Bhagavat Geeta describes the use of sandal wood and rose water
sites and preserved as artifacts. being sprayed at the Swayamvara of Draupadi. Nagarjuna, a scholar
of South India in 100 BC has written a treatise on incense candles.
Sacred texts, classics, literature, travelogues and accounts by
traders abound with reference to this aromatic and luxurious In ancient times, the art of making ‘attars’ and ‘floral waters’ had become
lifestyle of the kings and queens celebrating life and death and well established particularly during the Gupta period. In fact ‘Jalyeaya
also in the worship of Gods. This love for aromatics persists Aaswan’ meaning water distillation finds mention in Charak Samhita.
even today. In India fire, fragrant smoke, fragrant waters have
played an important role in religious ablutions, sacrificial Excavated Terra-cotta Equipment
fires, medicine, havanas, homas and agnihotras. Indians had
understood the effect of fire on medicinal aromatic plants For the Indian sub-continent, it can be said that even before
including spices. Christopher McMohan in ‘Incense in India’ Aryans could lay down written records, the people of Indus
has referred to formulas that were created for the worship of valley had developed the art of obtaining aromatic waters or
various gods and goddesses like Ganesh, Vishnu and Shakti. synthesizing several plant extracts for various reasons which
In the Agama Shastras it was said that each formula should were later adopted by Vaids and Hakims for medicine. The
consist of eight ingredients (Ashtagandha) selected from a list people of Indus valley civilization had developed the art of
of 18 substances which included camphor, saffron, agar wood, distillation. This has been revealed by the archeological studies
sandalwood, vetiver, spikenard, costus, etc. carried out in the Sindh Province of Pakistan, a terra-cotta
equipment excavated at the Mohenjo-Daro and Harappa sites
The science of Yagna had evolved with the Brahmanas and approx. 5000 years ago (now displayed at the Taxila Museum
Aranayakas. The post Samhita period known as Brahmanas in Pakistan) indicates that the equipment was probably used
emphasizes on the sacrifice / Sacrifices consisting of fires of for making perfumed waters from raw materials like rose,
scented wood were offered in the temples of Brahma, Vishnu sandalwood, kewda etc. Thus the people of Indus valley
and Shiva and fed with aromatic gums and leaves of sacred herb civilization developed the art of distillation of aromatic waters
`rusa’ (Andropogon Nardus). For our ancestors, yagna played and they were used for bathing. These waters were used for a
an important role in day to day life. The practice had a definite number of occasions right from aromatic baths to social, cultural
scientific understanding. It involves the burning of ghee, cow and religious functions.
milk and musk with herbs and plants which are aromatic and
have medicinal values. Various chemical changes take place The Vedic literature of India dating from around 2000 BC
during burning. The materials used in havan-samagris include lists over seven hundred substances, including cinnamon,
wood from mango tree, sandalwood, butea tree (palash), spikenard (‘jatamansih’), ginger (‘shringara’), myrrh, coriander
deodar, ficus (peepal) along with musk, camphor, nutmeg, mace, and sandalwood. The manner, in which it is written, reflects a
cardamom, guggul and cinnamon. In addition to these, well spiritual and philosophical outlook in which human beings are
known medicinal herbs that are included in the samagri such as seen as part of nature and the handling of herbs a sacred task.
turmeric, licorice, shankhapushpi, baheda, brahmi, and saunth. Vedas codified their use for both liturgicalix and therapeuticx
Vedic and Puranic literature has mentioned all these plants. purposes. Benzoin - which is used for pharmaceutical
preparations, food flavours and fragrances has been a valued
Aromatic Ingredients substance for incense in temples since ancient times. It is not
surprising that across the globe, as mentioned earlier there is
Brahatsamhita, Agnipuran, Amarkosa, Manasollasa, Gandhavada commonality in the use of these herbs.
give an insight into the importance of Gandhadravya making
these ingedients an important part of the Indian Materia
Medica. The history of cosmetics and perfumery can be
accurately reconstructed by a comprehensive understanding of
the history of all aromatic ingredients, used in the manufacture
of cosmetics and perfumes. These ingredients have medicinal
value, and find mention in Indian medical treatises like ‘Charak
Samhita’ and ‘Shushruta Samhita’viii. These treatises form the very
backbone of ancient Indian medical practices.

Perfumery since Ancient Times Hydro distillation of essential oil

The development of perfumery continued to evolve during
the Vedic period as mentioned in Ayurveda. Ramayana and

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VOL. I, NO. 4 | AUG-SEPT 2018

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Expert View

Recitation from Rig Veda iv MS found in the ‘raddi’ collection of Bhandarkar Oriental
The attar culture of India has been around much before the Research Institute, Pune. Folios 1-27a comprises the
industrial revolution. It was the source of rich commercial and ‘Gandhasara’ and folios 27b-49 comprise the ‘Gandhavada’
trading bene ts for the historic towns of Kannauj, Benaras, with commentary in Marathi written in the same hand.
Ghazipur, Jaunpur, Patna, Barh1 and the surrounding regions of
the states of Awadh, Bihar and Orissa. These cities had grown v section on gandhayukti (chapter LXXVI) mainly deals with
in importance due to perfumery trade in ancient and medieval making of cosmetics with aromatic substances
India as they were strategically positioned on the Uttarapatha
(the Northern road) and were connected with the Dakshinapath vi Agni Purana – As per Dr. R. C. Hazra’s Puranic records, Dhaka
(the Southern road). This contributed to the tremendous inland 1940, it was compiled some time during 9th century.
trade and tourist tra c.
vii Manasollasa – it illustrates the use of incense in sacred and
For India the ancient aromatic culture of attars or ittarz was secular sphere of Hindu life in early Medieval India.
once associated with the ruling and royal classes. It was the
prized preserve of the Kings, Queens and the Aristocracy. It was viii Ancient Indian treatises and rst written evidence on
beyond the reach of common man as it was an expensive and Ayurveda by Charaka and Sushrata; also known as two
exclusive commodity only meant for the elite. pillars of Ayurveda

Before the archeological discovery of the terracotta distillation ix pertaining to public worship
equipment from the Indus Valley site, it was believed that the
process of distillation had been developed by Mesu or Avicena x treating or curing of disease
in the Arab world, around 800-1000 AD. However, now the
conclusion can be safely drawn that the art of distillation of Reference
perfumes like rose water were actually rediscovered by Arabs
around 1000-1200 years ago. The terracotta equipment proves 1. Christopher, M., ‘Incense in India’, The Incense, Journal, 2001
that the art of distillation of perfumed waters was older and 2. Dahanulkar, S., Thatte, U., Ayurveda Unravelled, National Book Trust, Delhi,
practiced by the people of Indus Valley civilization. 3. Dairymple William The last Mughal Bloomsbury Publishing 2006
4. Davies, Patricia, Aromatherapy A-Z, Vermillon, 2005
Excavated Terracotta 5. Dictionary of Indian Raw Materials and Industrial Products Vol.1-12, CISR (Publications and
Distillation
Information Directorate)1952
Equipment from the Indus 6. Finnermore, H. The Essential Oils, Ernest Benn Ltd., London, 1926.
Valley (Rovesti Records) 7. Genders, Roy, Perfume through the Ages, G. P. Putnam’s Sons, New York 1972
8. Gode P. K., Studies in Indian Cultural History, vol. 1, VVRI, Hoshiarpur, 1961
Distillation Artefact from Indus Valley 9. Gode, P. K., Indian Science of Cosmetics and Perfumery, International Perfumer, 1951, no.3
10. Grover BL Grover S, A new look at Modern Indian History
The art of making ‘attar’ revolves around xing the aroma of 11. Bharatiya Vidya Bhavan Series The Age of Imperial Kannauj 2009
owers on sandalwood oil. Attars are manufactured in ‘degs’ in 12. Bulchand, Sarada, Sense of Smell, National Book Trust, India, 2002.
13. Castleman, Michael, The New Healing Herbs, Bantam Books, 2002.
which the plant charge is placed. These are direct re-heated 14. Charaka Samhita, Vol. V, Gulabkunverba Ayurvedic Society, Jamnagar, India, 1949.
stills. The mixture of oil and water is received in the condenser- 15. Bulchand, Sarada, Sense of Smell, National Book Trust, India, 2002.
cum-receiver which is then separated by the simple principle of 16. Castleman, Michael, The New Healing Herbs, Bantam Books, 2002.
removing water from an opening at the bottom and oil which 17. Charaka Samhita, Vol. V, Gulabkunverba Ayurvedic Society, Jamnagar, India, 1949.
is lighter than water remains at the top. Thus Attar is obtained 18. Christopher Mc’Mahon Aromatic India Visit to Kannauj Private communication1996
in a unique manner in the Bhapka which works as a condenser 19. Christopher, M., ‘Incense in India’, The Incense, Journal, 2001.
and a blender. Attars from di erent ingredients are obtained for 20. Dahanulkar, S., Thatte, U., Ayurveda Unravelled, National Book Trust, Delhi
varying fragrances and avours. 21. Dairymple William The last Mughal Bloomsbury Publishing 2006
22. Davies, Patricia, Aromatherapy A-Z, Vermillon, 2005
i Described perfume and fragrance 23. Dictionary of Indian Raw Materials and Industrial Products Vol.1-12, CISR (Publications and
ii Special School taught the skill since 500 AD.
iii Classi ed into 3 di erent types, depending on the mood Information Directorate)1952
24. Finnermore, H. The Essential Oils, Ernest Benn Ltd., London, 1926
and describes perfume, incense and fragrance. 25. Genders, Roy, Perfume through the Ages, G. P. Putnam’s Sons, New York 1972
26. Gode P. K., Studies in Indian Cultural History, vol. 1, VVRI, Hoshiarpur, 1961
27. Gode, P. K., Indian Science of Cosmetics and Perfumery, International Perfumer, 1951, no.3
28. Grover BL Grover S, A new look at Modern Indian History
29. Guha BS Outline of the Racial History of India Calcutta 1937
30. Gunther, E., Essential Oils, Vol. 1-6, Robert E. Krieger Publishing Company, Inc., Malabar,

Florida, 1972.
31. Kalhana’s Rajatarangini English translation by Aurel Stein London 1900
32. Kapoor J.N. Attars of India—A Unique Aroma, Perfume and Flavourist Vol.16 1991 Allured

Publishing Corp., 1991.
33. Marwah J & Marwah S, Common Man and Essential Oils, Proceedings NIMAP-CIMAP 2002

Marwah Jyoti, Attars: The Fading Aromatic Culture of India, SAARC publication 2015
34. Marwah, J & Marwah, S, Essential Oils in the Prevention of Spread of Contagious and Infectious

Diseases, Proceedings IWSA National Conference, Pune 2001
35. Marwah, Jyoti, Aromatherapy Rooted In Ancient Indian Culture, Minor Research Project,

University of Mumbai 2004 (Unpublished)
36. Marwah, Jyoti, Aromatherapy Rooted In Ancient Indian Culture, Minor Research Project,

University of Mumbai 2004 (Unpublished)
37. Marwah, Jyoti, MAP’ing India’s Past from the Spice Age to Age of Spice-Oil, presented at IAS,

IHCS, ISPQS Annual Conference, SIAACM, Tripunithura, Kerala, 2002.9unpublished)
38. McMahon Christopher, Attars of Kannauj, The International Journal of Aromatherapy, vol. 7.

No. 4, 1996
39. Miller, Dr. Light, Dr. Bryan Miller, Ayurveda & Aromatherapy, Motilal Banarsidas, New Delhi 1998
40. Nagar Shantilal, Botanical and Medicinal Plants as depicted in Ancient text, Art and

Archaeology, B.R. publishing 2000
41. National Institute of Rural Development, Hyderabad, Development Methods and Techniques, 2010
42. Oil Technology Research Institute, Hyderabad, Curcuma Longa and its e ects on human

pathogen, EOAI Conference, Agra 2001
43. Pruthi J. S., Spices and Condiments, National Book Trust, Delhi 1993
44. Raichur, Pratima, Absolute Beauty Through the Ancient Secrets of Ayurveda, Mapin

Publishing, 1997

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VOL. I, NO. 4 | AUG-SEPT 2018

Bewitching fragrances of exotic
powders linger all summer in India

• Courtesy : reports.ongc.co.in/ earlier part of the last century, when beauty was synonymous
with powdering your nose. In those years, powdery fragrances
Fragrance a cionados believe that beyond hard hitting very extremely heavy. A case in point would be Guerlain’s
orals and aqueous notes, a dry, airy cloud of vintage Shalimar, which is so dry that it smells almost smoky. I love
powder is the ideal summer fragrance. “In April, I was its rich, spicy notes, and it’s de nitely one fragrance that can
invited to what could be termed the most innovative fragrance be worn by both men and women. But it’s certainly not for
launch of the year. It was for Jo Malone’s India-inspired Cologne everyone.
Intense in Jasmine Sambac & Marigold. The venue was the
Dadar Flower Market in Mumbai and the call time was 6am. It “The primary notes of powdery fragrances are forms of iris,
was an unusual launch, to say the least, but quite refreshing. violet and vanilla,” adds Nandan. “These fragrances are usually an
But what was more startling than the launch was the fragrance anomaly in themselves because no other genre of fragrance has
itself”, says an ardent blogger. a texture ascribed to it.” Baby powder, talcum powder, poudre
de riz (made with rice, for the face) are all textures associated
Crafted by Celine Roux (head of global fragrance for the with these fragrances. And this is why they, especially the newer,
brand) and perfumer Mathilde Bijaoui, the perfume began more contemporary varieties, are perfect for summer.
with the fresh-cut dewiness of jasmine, but ended as a cloud
of powdery scent—soft, dry, and perfect for summer. Unlike Other prominent modern powder fragrances which have
other jasmine fragrances, which can be extremely aqueous or drawn attention include Prada’s Infusion d’Iris, which is
festive, this was clean and ultra-modern because it was laced extremely light because it has citrus notes such as mandarin,
with powdery notes. orange and orange blossom. Then there’s Kenzo Flower,

“I wanted this scent to have an addictive quality to it,” says Roux.
Bijaoui achieved that by blending the freshness
of jasmine with the herbaceous notes of
marigold. But the nal nishing touch, one that
makes it so thoroughly modern, is the addition
of honey, vanilla, benzoin and a special type of
ylang-ylang to give it a quality that makes it cling
to the skin. Prototypical powdery fragrances are
addictive. They’re extremely dry, a little sharp
but softer at the edges. It is a genre in fragrances
that hasn’t been explored very much in recent
times. In a maze of orals, fruits and gourmands,
all of which are so popular that they’re now
common, powder scents are ultra-sophisticated
and unusual.

“These fragrances are really an evocation of the
times when the powders were really important
not just as cooling on the skin but also used
in cosmetics,” says Jahnvi Dameron Nandan,
perfumer and founder of The Perfume Library,
a curated collection of scents. “So you could say
that they really had their moment of glory in the

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Expert View

delicate and feminine with violet, rose, white musk and vanilla. While powdery perfumes are part of the dry genre of fragrances,
Hermès 24 Faubourg, very chic, smells like face powder with they have given birth to another category—the gourmands that
iris, orange, peach, sandalwood and vanilla. My other favourite, are extremely popular these days. “Most gourmand fragrances
Bulgari Le Gemme in Ashmelah, with lavender, violet and are built around powdery notes such as vanilla, orris root (the
heliotrope, is a pu of perfume that is so light and airy, yet most expensive fragrance ingredient in a perfume palette) and
so glamorous, that it’s unbelievable that the two contrasts powdery musks.” But while gourmands can be almost cloyingly
can coexist. Then there are crowd-pleasers such as Donna sweet (think of the migraine you get by just whi ng the air at
Karan’s Cashmere Mist, Narciso Rodriguez Poudree, and Dior the duty-free), powdery scents are never sweet. The modern
Hypnotic Poison. In India, the Bombay Perfumery o ers a nod varieties may have a bit of dewiness, like that of the new Jo
to powder with Seven Islands, essentially a fruity fragrance, Malone perfume, but they will never smell saccharine, or candy-
but with powdery heart notes. “I would love to further explore like. A good powder perfume is dry, cloudy, dusty and always a
more violet and vibrant orris notes in another project as it’s an bit glamorous. Some people consider it ideal for evenings, but I
interesting olfactive direction for me personally,” says Manan wear Shalimar even on a hot summer day.
Gandhi, founder of the Bombay Perfumery.

Expertspeak on fragrance layering/mixing

People are often confused about combinations when
layering fragrances. If you are a perfumer, what is
the ideal way?

At the end, the nal scent created by you, should appeal to your
sense and persona, say experts. It is therefore wise to rely on the
tried and tested. Abdulla Ajmal, Consulting Perfumer at Ajmal
Perfumes, India and Umashan Naidoo, Studio West Buying
Head, listed some tips to keep in mind while layering scents.

• Layering scents or mixing scents, doesn’t necessarily

mean applying two or multiple perfumes on top of each

other immediately. Layering starts as soon as you apply • If you want to experiment, you should mix di erent
a scented shower gel or a soap. Then comes your body perfumes together and forming your own exclusive scent.
lotion and nally the perfume. So, if you are already Creativity is the most crucial aspect of layering. Rose,
following this routine, you are on your way to master the vanilla or freesia are the easiest notes which can be mixed
art of layering scents. with any base. If you want to create a strong bespoke
• When it comes to layering scents, the thumb rule is perfume, mix a heavy woody perfume with a light vanilla-
that heavier scents should be sprayed rst so they based perfume for a sun downer with friends or a spray an
don’t overpower their lighter counterparts. Wear the oriental based perfume and nish it with a rose scent for a
heavier scent rst, let it settle on you and then apply date night.
the lighter scent. Woody fragrances are heavy. Avoid

mixing two scents which are heavy. Choose one or • Choosing di erent notes and mixing fragrances from
more lighter fragrances to mix, such that your nal di erent families helps in creating new fragrances with
scent isn’t very intense. contrasts.
• To create a bespoke single base perfume, you should
stick to perfumes from similar fragrance families such as • There’s a misconception that one can only mix eau de
toilettes with eau de toilettes and the likes of it. It is totally
oral, woody, citrus, oriental etc. Understand the perfume ne to mix and match EDTs, EDPs and body sprays.
families-- the scent is oral, citrusy or woody. Once you

know this, layer your perfume with similar smelling scents. • If you want your fragrance to last longer, dab almond oil on

If your perfume has a woody aroma or citrussy aroma, you your skin, then layer those fragrances on top of it.
should match it with other products such as shower gel, bathing
oil, after shave etc. which have similar scents. This process will • Layering is all about the art of creativity and you can master
help you create a unique fragrance of your own. this easily by experimenting a couple of times. At the end
of the day, you are the creator of your perfume and layering
should be an extension of your personality.

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VOL. I, NO. 4 | AUG-SEPT 2018

Essential Oils for Flavours
(Global development & trends)

Dr. G. S. Ranade Dr. Geetanjali Ranade
Consulting Perfumer & Flavourist Quintesence Fragrances Pvt Ltd.

New Perspectives – Essential oils Essential Oils and applications

• Essential oil, also defined as essence, volatile oil, etheric oil i. Oral Care Products
or aetheroleum is a complex mixture of volatile constituents
biosynthesised by living organisms. ii. Alcoholic Beverages

• Essential oils can be liberated from their matrix by water, iii. Soft Drinks
steam, dry-distillation or cold expression.
iv. Bakery Products
• Their occurrence and function in nature is still a question
and the subject of on-going research. v. Confectionaries

• Extracts of aromatic plant material obtained by using vi. Savouries
organic solvents or uidised gases are not considered as
essential oils. These are called aromatic extracts. vii. Tobacco

• Essential oils, their fractions or isolates are used in flavours. viii. Frozen foods

• Essential Oils should not be confused with fixed oils ix. Soups/ Noodles

Pre-requisites for any material for use in Flavours x. Flavoured Teas
1. When avouring substances , including essential oils are
xi. Fish Products
added to foods they are self-limiting (used in very small
quantities) xii. Meat Products

2. Normal toxicological testing is not necessary, nevertheless Let us study couple of essential oils as an example to be
it is necessary to know the safe limits of the incorporation evaluated in avour applications.
levels. 1. Oral care products

3. This safety data has been studied and recorded in the Peppermint oil is major avouring oil in oral care products.
following regulatory documents. These do vary from region The oil is evaluated for it’s aroma pro le till dry out to ensure
to region, but need to follow if you want to do essential oils no o odours are present. It is then incorporated in tooth-
business with di erent regions. paste at 1% level. The tooth paste then used during brushing
and evaluated for cooling, o avours due to old oil, oxidised
These regulations are: notes and mouth feel, after cleaning the mouth. Inhaling
a) IOFI (International Organisation of Flavour Industry.) after brushing up, will indicate level of cooling and menthol
b) European Union of Regulation (EC No 2232/96) pungency/strength. In case of DMO the level of menthol, leaf
c) FEMA ( Flavour Extracts Manufacturers Association ) alcohol, and residual e ect can be detected easily, before it
d) US- FDA e) GRAS ( Generally Regarded As Safe) is approved for avour use in any oral care products. Flavour
e) FSSAI (Food Standards & Safety Authority OF India) In descriptors for peppermint oils are, minty, cooling, green,
addition to avouring and taste requirements, compliance leafy, bitter, resinous, peroxide/bleach. For more stringent
with the regulatory status of each region is required.
avour evaluation 20 to 30 ppm aqueous solution will be
4. The need of Stability, Compatibility, Consistency and Palate used directly by tongue test.
of in food product.
2. Alcoholic beverages
Most used oil in alcoholic drinks in Juniper Berry oil. The oil
has to be evaluated for it’s aroma pro le, for it’s top note,
middle note and dry out. At dry out no residual odour,

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Expert View

except peppery dry note should be noticed. It is then tasting purposes. Since the oil itself is sweet sugar solution
evaluated in 10% solution of absolute alcohol for it’ pro le. for testing purpose may not be necessary. Cis Anethole
For taste pro le it is tested in water at 10 to 20 ppm. is an isomer but is of toxic. It does not occur in nature. It’s
presence in aniseed oil is not permitted.
3. Soft drinks
Most used oil is orange oil cold pressed. This citrus oil has The o avours to be avoided are husky, cha y green, dry
very strong aroma of citrus peel or juice. It is evaluated for and at times dull meaning it does not bloom as soon as you
it’s odour pro le through all stages of evaporation. Citrus open the bottle. Suggested use levels are 5 to 10 mg % of
oils are oxidised very easily making them unsuitable for the product. It is sparingly used in cough-drops, oral hygeine
avour. It is necessary to ensure that no peroxide note is products and chewing gums. It is used in popular Turkish
perceptible at any stage of evaporation. The oil is then alcoholic drink “Raki”.
mixed at 50 ppm with ten percent sugar solution and
then tasted using few drops of this solution. No other Aniseed oil is an integral part of harbal avour, candies
aroma except orange will be noticed. The same procedure and throat losenzes. Popularly it’s avour is described as
is used for folded orange oils. The evaluation level could “licorice” avour.
be somewhat less than 50 ppm. It may be necessary to
remove waxes present in cold pressed oils by chilling and 6. Savouries
cold ltration. Sometimes solubilisation is also resorted Many culinary herbs and essential oils singly or in
for testing. Normally only oxidised/gummy/ polymeric o combination are used in savoury preparation. There are
avours are noticed in old and improperly stored oils. many herb oils, but let me take an example of Coriander
fruit oil.
4. Bakery llings & toppings
Essential oils cannot withstand baking temperatures hence The oil comes from dried ripe fruit/ seeds of Coriandrum sativum.
these are used in llings and toppings along with other
avourings. Oils used in such cases are lemon, orange, The major use of coriander seed is in the classic spice blend
cardamom, nutmeg etc. These are mixed with jelly, jams and such as “Indian curry type”. Coriander oil has plesant sweet,
sugars. Let me take example of cardamom oil for avour somewhat woody spicy, aromatic odour with balsamic
evaluation for these products. peppery woody dry out. The avour is mild sweet spicy,
warm and very slightly burning.
Cardamom oil is sweet, cineolic, terpenic with warm seed
like resinous odour and weak balsamic dry out. The oil The oil is tested at 20 to 30 ppm levels in water. Two
should be evaluated for it’s aroma through all the stages types of o avours should be absent. One arising out of
of evaporation. It is very important to ensure that oil is free
from polymeric, oxidised, piny note which may arise from xed oil present in crushed seeds and other due thermal
adulteration of synthetic components. decomposition of dextro linalool into terpenes and citrucy
acidic notes. Since dextro linalool is the main component of
It is tested by making 50 ppm solution in water or sugar the oil, it is sujected to adulteration using synthetic linalool
solution and tasting using few drops. Perception of husky and trace of decyl aldehyde which is the component of
note of cardamom seed con rms the genuineness of coriander herb oil. Flavour ealuation is very critical in case of
cardamom oil. The approved oil is thus blended with other Coriander seed oil.
topping avours and llings.
7. Tobacco
5. Confectionary Tobacco avourings consists of large number of essential
In addition to peppermint oil, Aniseed oil is also used in oils such as terpeneless mint, clove bud, vanilla, sandalwood,
large quantities. Aniseed is, obtained by steam distillation benzoin oil, vanilla extracts etc. Chewing tobacco contains
of the seeds of Pimpenilla anisum L. It contains over many more traditional avourings. Let me take example of
95% of trans-Anethole as main component. Its avour terpeneless mint oil which has characteristic cooling minty
characteristics are – strong sweet aroma of the crushrd seed note and free from any terpenic, and green notes arising
with greenish seedy but clean note. It’s taste is very sweet out of trace leaf alcohols present during deterpenisation
and soft. It’s aqueous solution of 30 to 50 ppm is used for process. The oil is tasted for bitterness at 20 ppm levels but
maintaining cooling characters of menthol and menthyl

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Expert View

acetate. The approved oil is blended with other natural Black pepper oil has more than 85% terpenes and about
avourings and the blended alcoholic avour is tobacco- 15% oxygenated ingredients. The terpenic part gives strong
green peppery/pine like aroma and oxygenated ingredients
casined and incorporated in cigar or ciggarate. This give pepper characteristics. Piperine gives pungency to
cigarrette is then smoked or pu ed to evaluate avours black-pepper aroma. Sensory evaluation is most important
against bench –mark standard. for the entire pro le of this spice. The oil and resin should be
evaluated by di erent sensory technique. Other avourings
The chewing tobacco however uses rose, khus, musk, include tomato powder, cheeze, condiments and seasonings
sandal, menthol and other essetial oils and are mixed with before soups and noodles are served.
pre-treated tobacco-leaves. Quality control here is very
important as far as mouth freshness and lingering e ects. Flavoured Teas
Indonesian mini cigars contain “clove” avourings. Tea leaves have natural aroma obtained through
processing- CTC. Tea leaves at di erent places have di erent
8. Frozen Foods aromas. In order to make quality standardisation and
Frozen foods consists of Ice creams, mousse, candies (water upgrading lower grades of tea leaves many avours are
ices), Sherbets, squash and cordials. Many avours, fruit, used. Many countries have di erent legislation of making
extracts, essential oils are used in these products. The most tea avourings. Of many essential oils used in tea avours
important prerequisites for these avours are their stability let me take an example of “Bergamot oil” as a avouring
to refrigerated temperatures, and NTPs and microbiological essential oil. Natural Bergamot oil (bergaptine free) is used
analysis in addition to highly sensitive sensory evaluations. for tea avouring. The oil is very sensitive to auto-oxidation
One of the most important essential oil used here is Rose oil. being delicate citrus oil and should be evaluated in 10%
ethanol at all stages of evaporation till dry-out. No o -
In addition to it’s analytical conformity to standard, It is the odour or avour such as polymeric, acidic, musty, oxidised
avour test at 50 ppm in chilled water solution or 100 ppm or synthetic should be noticeable.

in chilled milk should give you aroma of rose ower which The oil should be analysed for all physico-chemical and
you cannot miss. Complete absence of bitter, cooked or leafy instrumental analysis. This oil is sometimes blended with
odour is essential for the rose oil before it is approved for lemon or tangerine oil.
frozen food products. Other ingredients should be sensory
tested in cold conditions as recommended.

The dosage of this oil is also at ppm levels if to be used as The other oils which are used as tea avourings are
Rose Ice cream. cardamom, cinnamon, american mint, sage etc.

Natural extracts for frozen food should also be critically 10. Fish & Meat products
evaluated in this way. Fully blended avour also need to be Flavourings for sh and meat is very complex and
evaluated critically. complicated and perhaps, it is beyond the scope of this
presentation. These avours are a combined e ect of
9. Soups/Noodles the followings a) original avour of sh or meat (canned,
Soups are made by four di erent ways: packaged, refrigerated or fresh), b) process of cooking,
a) Home made using fresh ingredients roasting, or frying, generating reaction avours, c) type
b) Canned soup to be diluted/heated and served of other additives such as MSG, fat, preservative ,d)
c) Dry-mix to be reconstituted and cooked stage of adding condiments, seasonings and avour and
d) Frozen soup to be reconstituted after suitable dilution subsequent processing.
and cooking. Flavourings used for these soups are made
by using di erent ingredients. They are seasonings, Essential oils, extracts, herb, spices, seasonings and
condiments, spice powders, avours including essential oils condiments are all added in the premix & used, at the levels
in liquid and spray-dried forms. of 0.2 to 0.5 % depending on the nature and type of sh/
meat to be processed.
The common essential oils used for these are basically spice oils.
Let me take an example of black-pepper oil from “Piper nigrum”. Celery, clove, cinnamon, pepper, pimento, bay leaf, aniseed,
The oil is premixed with black pepper resin to get aroma (from ginger, are used along with seasonings and spices.
oil) and pungency (from resin) in desired concentrations.

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Sensory evaluation for these oils is quite standard Conclusions
process of QA/QC. Since avouring essential oils contribute at sub-normal levels in
foods it is essential to carry out quality control of these oils with
Level of Essential oil in avours extreme care and concentration. Many a times these are used
The level of essential oil used in food avourings di ers from along with adjuncts or bases of varying nature. One has to keep
product to product. In some cases, oil goes straight as avouring in mind the physico-chemical interactions of change in overall
ingredient. In some cases it goes as adjunct and in some cases
it goes as a tiny quantity to boost, enhance, rounding and avour characteristics. Evaluation of herb oils is very critical as
smoothening of the avour with overall acceptability and essential oil, enhances the aroma and taste of the herbs used in
familiarity. Some of the dosages are given below: seasonings along with the herb oil.
1) Oral care products eg Peppermint oil, (0.25 to 1.5 %)
2) Alcoholic beverage eg Juniper berry TL (0.05 to 0.25 %) Also one should keep in mind the change in essential oil
3) Soft drinks eg Orange TL (0.25 to 0.5 %) pro le when it undergoes chilling at sub-zero temp or to heat/
4) Bakery products llings eg Lemon TL (0.1 to 0.3%) roasting at several hundred degree centigrade temp. People
5) Chewing Gums eg Spearmint (0.2 to 0.8%) manufacturing spray dried avour powders should specially be
6) Savories eg Cinnamon/Seasonings (0.1 to 0.3%) aware of this property of essential oil.
7) Soup eg Lime/lemon/Condiments (0.1 to 0.2 %)
8) Tobacco eg Mint/Other oils (0.01 to 0.5% For speci c bulk requirements, bulked or recon oils can be
9) Flavoured Tea eg Cardamom, Lemon (0.01 to 0.05 %) standardised and ensured the consistency in sensory quality.
10) Fish /Meat eg Nutmeg/seasonings/spices (0.1 to 0.2 %)
References
Sensory Quality of Essential oils 1. Flavour Chemistry & Technology, HB Heath (an AVI Book
As explained, the sensory quality of essential oil is very
important. New york)
2. Food Flavourings edited by P R Ashurst (Blackie,New York)
It directly a ects the aroma and taste of the product. If you are 3. Common F&F materials, edited by Kurt Bauer (wiley – VCH,
using a particular quality of say” Spanish Juniper berry “ oil in
alcoholic beverage (Gin) you cannot replace it with any Juniper New York)
berry oil unless it matches avour pro les in totality. If you are 4. Handbook of Perfumes & Flavours by Dr O. Secondini (CPC,
using say oil of cinnamon quills ( Sri lanka) in ve star hotel
Biryani you cant replace it with cinnamon bark. New York)
5. Source book of Flavours by G. Reineccius (CBC Publishers
If you are using Lemon oil sicilian CP in bakery llings/toppings
you cannot replace it with any other lemon oil CP. New Delhi)
6. P & F Materials of Natural Origin, S. Arctander (Elizabeth, N
In fragrances where taste is not involved one can try
replacements of essential oils carefully. But avour where aroma J (USA)
and taste is required, it is not advisable to compromise on 7. Spices & Condiments by J S Pruthi, (NBS India)
organoleptic qualities. 8. Personal experience in F&F industry over 40 years.
9. IP/BP/USP pharmacoepias.
10. On essential oils, James Vergese, Synthite Valley,

Kolencherry.
11. Personal working experiences over 45 years.

You can standardise on analytical speci cations as usual.

Sensory qualities for avouring essential oils have to be at ppm
levels with expert avourist.

www.ffwindia.com 13

Business

Indian Perfume Houses: Present
and Future

As a “Frag Head” living in India, we have numerous ways These perfume houses are slowly but rmly creating a loyal
by which we can acquire perfumes of various user base by o ering quality products at inviting prices. Is
international brands easily. A ordable brands “Perry any one of them or all of them together giving a tough ght
Ellis” or “Halston” from USA or “Armaf”, “Al-Rehab” and to International Brands the way “Patanjali” to “P&G” and
“Alharamin” or “Rasasi” from UAE, we can get it all. “Unilever”? perhaps not, or I should say not yet.

But scenario is totally di erent for an average Indian Perfume User. Having said that, they are making
She has been forced to use deodorants from over a decade as one of waves in Indian Perfume Users
the very few options to smell good where as in reality deodorants are palette for sure. Indian Perfume
meant to remove or reduce unpleasant body smell or odor. Yes, there Users must be educated about Art
has always been Jovan Musk or Charlie but that is like saying “choose and Science of Perfumes so that
the Car which you want to drive… Either Fiat or Ambassador!!” they can start judging perfume
by the way it smells, performs,
And then an era of shopping mall came….Indian Consumer had for develops and makes user feel,
the rst time heard of something called “Shopping Experience”… instead of making their decision
and users were greeted with several choices…. Davido , Calvin based on a perfume endorsed by a famous Hollywood Celebrity
Klein, Burberry, Azzaro, Giorgio Armani and many more! or by judging perfumes by the look of the bottle.

De nitely it has brought consumers plenty to choose from, but What Indian Perfume Houses can do to ensure that they are
it came with several limitations considered as alternative or default choice when it comes to
• They came at a hefty price tag to be able to be a orded by smelling good?
• Try to create a long term connect with consumer instead
Middle Class
• Most of these brands are from Europe where the weather of targeting short term gains, for example educate end
users about perfume notes, accords and other nuances of
is very di erent than average Indian weather; Low smelling good.
temperature, less humidity for example. As a result, couple
of sprays of a perfume might be doing wonders in say’ Italy’ • Collaborate with corporates to reach out to maximum
but doesn’t work for an hour for a perfume user in Mumbai. consumers and make them experience their fragrances and
encourage them to try by providing discounts and trial packs
At the same time let us be fair to these international brands
and give them their due. One of the reasons why these brands • Design fragrances keeping in mind various unique aspects
have been doing well in India is because of lack of options/ of our country (Culture, preferences, weather, daily
competition from any local brand. The Irony of our country is schedule) for example festivals and special occasions
that we have thousands of years of fragrance history but could
not produce a single internationally known perfume house… • Come up with innovative way of providing quality but pocket
none! Traditional Indian Perfume houses have been supplying friendly options. For example, coming up with 30 ml bottles
best quality of raw materials to international fragrance houses
from over 100 years but could not introduce a retail product • Present perfumes as better/ appropriate options to
to the Indian Consumers which can appeal to all. On the other Deodorants for smelling good.
hand Indian Perfume Industry failed to adopt French Perfumery
Skills and come up with Alcohol based perfumes (EDP, EDT) to • Come up with unique strategies to compete against
allure Indian Perfume Lovers. cosmetic giants who spends millions on marketing

The good news is that the scenario is changing... In last few years, • Use new channels of marketing for example social media to
couple of promising perfume houses have started. These perfumes reach out to consumers e ectively with relatively lesser spent
houses are coming up with products which can compete with
International Brands not only in price but quality as well. Will that come after 2 years or 5? Will that day ever come? Only
time will tell but as of now future of Indian Perfume Houses
Be it “All Good Scents” or “Bombay Perfumery”, “A Fragrance Story” looks brighter than ever before!
or “Mocemsa”, Indian Perfume Houses are making their presence felt.
The writer is Vikram Rajgor, Co-Founder of Ambergris, India’s
First Fragrance Experience Creators based out of Mumbai, India.

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Expert View

Odour Masking: A bird’s eye view

Dr. Renuka Thergaonkar
HOD, PGDPCM, Kelkar Vaze College
Director. R & D Global Consultants Pvt Ltd

Our surroundings make us happy. Sight, smell and Odours could be e ective even at concentrations below
ambeince make our surroundings which in turn make conscious levels. For example, subthreshold ambient ‘sweet’
us feel very happy. A good smell is what we look odors increase pain tolerance while a common detergent
forward to but at the same time a bad smell is what puts us o . perfume changes spontaneous cleaning behavior It is rightly
Like we want to go for a movie and hire a cab the moment we said that Odour can be White or Black.
step in the taxi we start counting the minutes to escape not
because we are late for the movie but because of a typical weird If we look at the Odours we can say that there are di erent types
smell which we cannot take in. Unpleasant Smells creep up in of odours namely:
the most common areas even o ces,rooms or homes. Smells
that are good and bad are everywhere.

The population explosion has led to increase in municipal Odours can be divided into various types due to our perception
waste. This accumulation of waste is harming the environment of smell. We smell through our nose is probably the most easy
and human health. Dumping grounds are the best example of thing said, but putting it in scienti c terms we can say that we
it. Lets take the example of dumping ground between Thane smell orthonasally (Breathing in) and retronasally (Breathing
and Mulund in Mumbai, it has been giving out bad odour, as out). The response to odours is larger during exhalation than
the open space receives 300 metric tonnes of waste everyday. during inhalation. Inhalation and Exhalation phases vary
Flies and mosquitoes that are present at dumping grounds are between the odour stimulations, and these phases could be
the carriers of several air and water borne diseases like cholera, related to the sensation di erences between orthonasal and
dysentery, diarrhea etc. According to medical experts, the retronasal stimulation sites. Many times breathing occcurs
continuous dumping could result in around 40 diseases. The through mouth (with the velopharyngeal closure) and people
major diseases amongst these 40 include leptospirosis, food have no external cue as to where the stimuli were delivered,
poisoning, cholera, dysentery and diarrhea. Other diseases odours could occur at any time in the breathing cycle, and this
include histoplasmosis (breathing problem), worms and loose can be related to retronasal presentation of the stimuli. Hence
motions. Physicians also point out that the air released from odour perception is the part which is most personally pertaining
the dumping ground is toxic. At the time of decomposition to individuals. The perception of malodour is generally related
of the waste, many gases like methane, carbon monoxide,
carbon dioxide and ammonia are released into the air. The
microorganisms manage to decompose the bacteria and release
the oxygen into the air through anaerobic respiration. The gases
released are harmful to human life and are also responsible for
the stench. Hence the stench can be related to the cause for
several health issues. Though the Smell is a bad smell but people
residing in the areas nearby have got used to it.

Smell is a very subjective matter. What is a good smell or a bad
smell? Actually Odors are highly potent in a ecting various
domains of human psychological functioning, ranging from
perception and mood to cognitive processes and behavior.

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to individuals as few people feel some odours are good while In products specially the consumer goods these malodours
the others feel the same odours as mal odour. causes several issues like:
Human nose is only 20-30% sensitive to odour intensity
variations, but is sensitive to variation in odour quality. More 1. Interference with the fragrance
complex the odour mixture more is the error in intensity
judgment. In binary and tertiary mixtures of odourants in 2. Changes the notes of fragrance
close range the total odor intensity is inferior or equal and very
seldom superior to the sum of components. 3. Changes the psycological pro le of the products

4. Reduces the sale of the products.

Hence malodour control is a major issue in all the aspects. If
done properly it will lead to miraculous results but many times
thes resuts are di cult to achieve. There are several ways for
malodour control in atmosphere and in products. The common
techniques for dealing with malodors are:

Figure 2: Olfactory Process 1. Masking: The introduction of a new odour that is stronger
than the malodor. This substantially increases the overall
Genrally there are certin odours which are considered as odor level. Frequently it is ine ective since both odours can
malodours. These can be co related with the chemicals be detected.
which have typical notes. The malodours can be divided into
atmospheric malodours and Product malodours. These are 2. Anesthetization: Desensitizes the olfactory senses so that
further divided into the following chemical malodourants: no good or bad odor will be perceived.

1. Atmospheric Malodourants: 3. Ventilation: If it is atmospheric malodors then evacuating
to the outside is or ventilating the area with fresh air
• Lower Aliphatic Carboxylic acids in sweat bathroom smells reduces the stench.
• Lower Aliphatic amines Perceived as Fishy, Urinious
• Lower substituted Phenol and Phenol esters e.g. Paracresol 4. Oxidation: Works only if the compound will oxidize rapidly.
Some chemicals like Sodium hypochlorite, potassium
and paracrysyl isovalerate specially in urinals permanganate, hydrogen peroxide etc. are used. But these
at higher concentration, can be dangerous to humans,
• Skatol with a fecal smell present in bathroom animals, etc. Ozone emitting devices are also used to
oxidize the airborne malodor molecules.
2. Product Malodourants:
5. Adsorption: Physical adherence of the malodor molecules
• Lower aliphatic mercaptans and thio acids, PEG’s, onto the product molecules as a result of the of Vander
Cooking cabbage, depilatories, Hair waving preparations, Waals forces.
deodorants etc.
6. Filtration: Commonly uses activated charcoal which must
• Thio Esters, sulfides and Disulfides Rotten eggs come in direct physical contact with the airborne malodor
• Sulphate smell in detergents, shampoos gas molecule. Works by adsorption until the carbon
• Fatty acid base notes in creams becomes saturated.

These atmospheric mal odours are very typical and needs to be taken 7. Accelerated Decaying: Speeds up decaying of
care of at all times as an increase in its threshold suddenly makes one substance producing the malodor by a considerable
uncomfortable and the stench is related to personal hygiene in our society. margin, (although it can still take up to 24 hours).
Usually involves enzymes and bacteria to accelerate
decaying. In the case of imbedded urine, the gas
produced will be ammonia.

8. Absorption: This is the physical penetration of the malodor
substance into the inner molecular structures of the product.

9. Bonding (chemisorption): Involves the exchange or
sharing of electrons between the malodor atoms and

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Expert View those of the product. Depending upon the malodor,
desorption of between 10 to 50% will take place over a
Figure 3: Approaches to malodour Control period of 30 minutes to 4 hours.

10. Counteraction: This method is termed neutralization when
no odour results and reodorization happens when a milder
pleasant odour replaces the malodor. It works through
conjugate pairs, pairs of odorants that neutralize each
other’s respective odours.

But when it comes to real life control these processes are
absolutely useless alone and many times have to be dealt in a
di erent way. The approach to malodour control can be taken as:

*This is Oder Masking– part one; part two to be followed in the
F&FW Oct-Nov ’18 issue.

Who F&F and why F&F as of today?

The avor and fragrance industry (F&F) consists of food’s avor, however, can be easily altered by changing its
intermediary products to cater to the needs of its smell while keeping its taste similar or even unchanged. This can
customers. The primary customers of avors and be best exempli ed in arti cially avored jellies, soft drinks and
fragrances include the food and beverage industry, and the candies, which, while made of bases with a similar taste, have
manufacturers of household products and cosmetics industry. dramatically di erent avors due to the use of di erent scents or
The global industry today, is led by leading companies such as fragrances.
Givaudan (Switzerland), International Flavors & Fragrances (US),
Firmenich (Switzerland), Symrise (Germany), Frutarom (Israel), On the basis of type, the fruits & nuts segment is estimated to
Sensient (US), MANE (France), Takasago (Japan), T.Hasegawa account for the largest share of the Food Flavors Market in 2018.
(Japan), and Robertet (France). Fruit & nut avors are common in beverages, bakery products,
dessert items, puddings, and energy bars. Fruits & nuts have
Asia Paci c today, is tipped to be the largest market for numerous health bene ts. Various energy drinks and non-
food avors in 2018. This is due to the rising consumption carbonated drinks also have fruits & nuts avors added to it. On
of beverages, confectionery, dairy, and bakery products the basis of application, the beverages segment accounted for
increasing in this region. China is witnessing economic the larger share of the market in 2018. Increasing demand for
development and rise in disposable income, due to which carbonated and non-carbonated energy drinks are key drivers of
there is an increase in consumption of processed food items. the segment.
This leads to the growth of the food avors industry. India too,
is a hugely lucrative destination for both established as well as Based on form, the liquid segment is projected to be the faster-
new players in the industry. growing. Liquid avors are generally available in water-soluble
and oil-soluble forms. Food avors in the liquid form are used
Flavor is the sensory impression of a food or any other for food items such as beverages, dairy products, protein drinks,
substance and is determined mainly by the chemical senses and pharmaceuticals. They are easy to mix and provide avor
of taste and smell. The avor of the food can be altered with consistency. Based on origin, the natural segment is projected
natural or arti cial avorants, which a ect these senses. Smell to be the faster-growing. Liquid avors are generally available
is the main determinant of a food item’s avor. While the taste in water-soluble and oil-soluble forms. Consumer preference
of food is limited to sweet, sour, bitter, salty, umami, and other toward clean label and organic products drives the natural Food
basic tastes, the smells of a food are potentially limitless. A Flavors Market.

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Expert View

Firmenich acquires functional
ingredients producer Campus

• Courtesy: Martin Whiteonin Business, Flavours, Food, Industries, Ingredients, Mergers & Acquisitions

Firmenich has acquired Italian functional ingredients producer Campus from White Bridge
Investments and Giampaolo Cagnin for an undisclosed sum.

production facility in
Monterrey, Mexico, which will
begin operations later this
year.

Campus will retain its brand
identity and will operate as a
functional solutions-focused
segment within Firmenich’s
Flavors division.
Gilbert Ghostine, Firmenich
CEO said: “Campus is a
company that has been built
on innovation and has made
its mark in protein solutions.

Campus produces a range of natural ingredients for “We look forward to working
protein applications including meat, dairy, sauces and together to expand its reach
plant-based food products, and Firmenich claims this globally and leverage its
acquisition will enhance its production capabilities in both the capabilities into new categories such as dairy and plant-based
animal and vegan protein segments. solutions to make our customers win today and tomorrow.”

Campus was founded in 2005 in Parma, at the heart of Italy’s Patrick Firmenich, Firmenich’s chairman of the board added:
“Food Valley,” by Giampaolo Cagnin with a focus on meat. Over “I am delighted to be welcoming Campus into the Firmenich
the years, the Company has developed deep expertise and family, as we share common values, a commitment to world-
applications knowledge in using natural products, such as bers, class research and to leading innovation in natural solutions.
to create customized functional solutions for a broad range of “Giampaolo Cagnin and Federico Fulgoni, Campus’s CEO,
protein applications. Campus operates research and production have built an impressive organization that we look forward
facilities in Italy, and is expanding its footprint globally with a to taking to the next level to o er our customers a complete
state-of-the-art production plant in Monterrey, Mexico due to natural taste experience.”
start production later this year.
Federico Fulgoni said: “With Firmenich’s excellence in research
According to a statement from Firmenich, Campus developed and global market reach, I am excited about the many
“deep expertise” in using natural products such as bres to opportunities ahead for Campus.
create customised solutions for the manufacturers.
As part of the agreement, Firmenich will acquire Campus’s “By combining our capabilities we will accelerate our
research and production facilities in Italy, as well as a new longstanding goal of o ering the most comprehensive range
of clean label solutions for protein applications, cutting across
animal and plant-based products.”

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Essential oils applications safety –
conflicting views for consumer use

Dr Sitaram Dixit – Chairman Consumer Guidance Society of India
Independent Consultant – Fragrances, Personal, Fabric & Household Care Chemical Industry

In this universe more than four hundred thousand species when we heat it or crush it releasing the plant aroma. Essential
of plants exists of which approximately two hundred yield literally means the presence of an essence or odour and oil
essential oils. Tiny glands present at the petals, leaves, stems, because they leave an oily spot on paper. Natural essential
roots, bark and wood of plants and trees produce essential oils are complex volatile chemical compounds having a small
oils. They are produced in the inner most cell membrane of the molecular structure. The individual chemical substance present
parenchymatous tissue of leaves and petals of owers or in the in this complex mixture determines the essential oil property
cytoplasm or separate cell centres when found in other plant and its fragrant odour quality. Essential oils do not leave any oily
parts. residue on skin and are neither greasy nor fatty. They are freely
soluble in alcohol, water and vegetable oils and evaporate or
Typical examples detailing the distribution of essential oil in volatilise on coming in contact with the air giving out a strong
nature smell. It is easy to spot the di erence between good quality oil
and a bad one. When we keep a bottle of oil on the table and
Plant Part Plant Name open the lid, it will give a whi of its aroma. If one has to move
Bark Cinnamon, Cassia closer to sni it is poor quality oil. Essential oils are terpenes or
Beans Vanilla hydrocarbons in unsaturated straight chain molecules based on
Bulb Garlic isoprene (C4H8) ring structure. Terpenes easily combine with
Bud Clove other organic groups and act as a carrier of aromatic substances.
Entire Plant Oak moss, Tree moss Essential oils are complex mixtures consisting of actives like
Aerial plant parts Geranium, Spike Lavender, Lavender, monoterpenes (10 carbon atoms / mono-), sesquiterpenes (15
Rosemary, Labdanum carbon atoms / sesqui-), monoterpenoids and sesquiterpenoids
Flowers Jasmine, Orange Flowers, Rose, Tuberose, that contribute to their medicinal bene ts. Essential oils apart
Clove (dried bud) from being rich in terpenes and oxygenated terpene derivatives
Flower Stigma Sa ron may also contain alcohols, phenols, aldehydes, ketones,
Fruit Coriander, Pepper oxygenated and sulphouretted oils. They also possess a few
Fruit Peel Lemon, Lime, Bitter Orange, Sweet Orange, unstable carbon—carbon double bonds characteristic of an
Bergamot unsaturated fatty acids. Essential oils being natural antioxidants
Kernel Nutmeg normally do not get rancid however; they generally react with
Leaves Cinnamon, Citronella, Clove, Lemongrass, water and oxygen.
Palmarosa, Patchouli, Mint, Basil
Rhizomes Ginger, Turmeric The composition of an essential oil alters on extraction from
Roots Vetiver its original plant source even when the extraction process and
Stems Benzoin, Styrax, Peru Balsam, Tulu Balsam procedure is most gentle and on further processing, become
Seed Cardamom vastly di erent from what it was when in the living plant. Some
Wood Sandalwood, Cedar wood plants in their natural living state are odourless, but become
fragrant on drying or on enzymatic fermentation under suitable
Essential oils conditions. A good example is that of the natural odourless
green clove buds, which turns fragrant only on sun drying.
Plants release essential oils slowly to the surroundings under Subsequently the distillation of these buds yields clove bud
normal natural conditions. Essential oil containing glands break oil with a distinct spicy odour. Similarly, Iris pallida rhizome
when dug up fresh has a faint uninteresting vegetable kind

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of smell. The rhizome when peeled and dried at a moderate Lavender oil for instance has multiple healing properties due to
temperature develops a very interesting appreciable powdery the presence of 200 di erent chemical constituents at varying
violet like fragrant note. Oleoresins and oleo-gum-resins that proportions that determine it suitability for speci c application
contain essential oils are resinous plant exudations exuded and use. Thus, the incredible variety of plants having di erent
naturally during the plant life cycle viz., Olibanum Frankincense, chemical components combination yields diverse and versatile
Opoponax, Myrrh, etc., however, Benzoin, Styrax, Tulu Balsam therapeutic e ects. Correct harvesting and extraction of the
and Peru Balsam yields are due to the pathological response to essential oil can maintain the true therapeutic qualities that
wounds in icted on the tree trunks or on removal of the bark. even a single drop of essential oil could contain 40 million-
The perfumery industry, earlier obtained all the important trillion small size molecules for versatile and convenient use
natural aromatic materials from the wild, but now most of them like inhalation, ingestion or topical application that penetrates
are cultivated. through the skin, into the bloodstream, into our body cell, in
synergy with the body equilibrium.
Essential oils are liquid products of steam or water distillation
of plant parts namely stems, bark, seeds, fruits, leaves, roots Essential oils are all not equal
and plant exudates. We get citrus oil from the fruit peel by
expression alone as application of heat damages the chemical Many factors a ect the therapeutic properties of herbal plants
components present in citrus fruits. Citrus oil today is a by- and it is critical that essential oils for aromatherapy and for other
product of the fruit juice industry. The characteristic fragrance medical use actually have the therapeutic chemical constituents
and avour of any essential oil is due to the presence of several present in them. ‘100% Pure’ essential oil does not mean all
hundred chemical compounds that give rise to a speci c the vital therapeutic and medicinal chemical components are
complex odour. An essential oil on fractionation yields its present there. We get true therapeutic essential oils from the
individual natural components. Extraction with organic solvents
of plant parts produces oleoresins, concretes and absolutes. rst distillation only. Second and third distillation even though
Extraction with a near or supercritical solvent such as carbon maintaining the overall essential oil smell, signi cantly reduces
dioxide produces very high quality extracts. Oleoresins and its the potency. The temperature and time of distillation is also
extracts in addition to containing the relevant volatile essential vital to bind the full chemical potential of the plant. Distilling
oil also have the concentrated non-volatile avour components large batches at high temperatures and pressure destroys the
that have diverse uses in the food industry. All natural plant therapeutic properties left even though it is able to maintain
materials are prone to spoilage and detoriation due to bacterial, the desired fragrance or smell. In addition, for getting essential
viral or fungal infection in addition to destruction from insects oil with optimum desired chemistry the plants selected need to
and pets. It is important to use appropriate preventive measures be of the highest quality, grown in virgin soil uncontaminated
to keep the plants in a healthy state, throughout the period of by chemicals and harvested during the correct time of the year
cultivation, during and after harvesting. Similarly, other critical (even precise time of day) under strict environmental condition.
factor for high yields of good quality aromatic ingredients In this respect essential oil, plants when distilled immediately on
includes the correct time and condition for harvest. Subjecting harvesting at farms have better therapeutic properties.
the gathered owers to quick extraction within an hour’s time is
also important to prevent spoilage due to fermentation and loss ‘Therapeutic essential oil’ standard thus encompass everything
of essential oil due to natural environmental evaporation. from planting to marketing of the essential oil. It means
verifying the correctness of the plantation species, the purity
Complexity & versatile healing properties of the soil, manner of cultivation (without use of synthetic
chemicals), the proper time of harvest, the mode of the
People right from ancient times have recognized the healing distillation process to capture the right chemical therapeutic
properties of plants. Modern day scientists after understanding compound compositions thereby optimizing the healing
the chemical constituents of plants scienti cally recognize how properties in the oil and the purity of the packaging. In short
all these synergistically contribute to its healing e ect results right natural nothing added, nothing taken away and stored
better than synthetic drugs that actually repress both bene cial in light-protected (amber or blue) glass or ceramic bottles,
as well as pathogenic organisms indiscriminately and thus Te on or stainless steel in a stable environmental temperature
overall weakening our natural immune system. Essential oils conditions. A plant grown in one region might have slightly
in plants are highly potent actives responsible as the healing di erent chemistry than that grown in another region. Similarly,
chemical component needed to feed; nurture and repair plant distilling a plant when too green or harvesting at the wrong
cells. The plant part, from which we extract, the soil condition, time of day may yield chemical constituents at incorrect levels,
the climate, the altitude, the harvesting method, the time of not meeting the therapeutic essential oil quality even though
harvest and the distillation processes we employ to extract the the oil may be ‘100% pure’. Essential oils for aromatherapy
essential oil all together determine its constituents. Essential use apart from being therapeutic essential oil should also be
oils owing to its extremely complex chemistry are very versatile. unadulterated without addition of any synthetic chemicals or
potentially toxic compounds. It is vital to use only that essential

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Expert View

oil that meets the rigorous standards and contain the medicinal kiwi and just about any fruit we desire. We nd small amounts
plant potential to treat any health issues. It is also obvious that of methyl anthranilate ester in many essential oils also in
essential oils having therapeutic bene t are signi cantly more grapes and cherries. While producing natural avourings for
expensive and work more e ciently at lower dosage levels. beverages and confectionaries, making use of synthetic methyl
anthranilate ester, adding a little colour and labelling it as a
Organic & natural grape or cherry is quite common. Knowledge is power and
being aware of the true meaning of ‘organic’ and ‘natural’ is
The chemistry of essential oils falls within the dominion of important to decipher product labels correctly.
organic chemistry under the broader eld of general chemistry.
Since the advent of chemistry organic means the study of Shelf life for essential oils
life compounds. Carbon forms the basis of all compounds
created by living processes and therefore we de ne organic Aromatic or scented essential oils available in the market are of
chemistry as ‘the study of carbon compounds.’Today scientists four types, namely,
synthesize thousands of carbon compounds outside of the 1. Expressed oils (usually citrus),
natural processes of living organisms and call them as ‘organic’ 2. Solvent extracted oils (absolutes),
regardless of their origin. Consequently petrochemicals (motor 3. Carrier blended oils (essential oils in a carrier fatty base),
fuels, industrial solvents), pesticides, fungicides, herbicides, 4. Steam distilled essential oils.
disinfectants, cleaning uids, plastics, Styrofoam, paints, other
toxic products important for modern living, pharmaceuticals, The shelf life of these four classes is di erent. Expressed, solvent
etc., are ‘organic’ since virtually all of them are composed of extracted and carrier blended oils contain both large and small
carbon molecules. Carbon is the most adaptable element aromatic molecules. Essential oils obtained entirely by steam
capable of forming long chains and complex ring structures distillation contain only small molecules. Larger molecules are
with another carbon atom. It an ideal building block for not only less stable than smaller ones. Shelf life addresses the chemical
making industrial products but also innumerable living forms stability of aromatic oils that are mixtures of many compounds.
including essential oils arti cially. Seeing the word ‘organic’ on If this mixture remains stable without decomposing and/or
a package label, a consumer assumes the marketed products change in its chemistry over a long period during storage, we
(or its ingredients) are free of herbicides, pesticides, chemical can say that it has a long shelf life. Carrier blended aromatherapy
fertilizers, hormones, antibiotics, etc., although to an expert essential oils containing large molecules of fatty vegetable oils
chemist, the term only means that the product contains carbon are not as stable as the tiny molecules available in unblended
compounds including the presence of synthetic. The legally distilled essential oils. Fatty oils unlike essential oils contain traces
de ned phrase ‘Certi ed Organic’ is a much better word than of proteins, polypeptides, amino acids, etc., that breaks down
‘organic’ to mean what most consumers think of it. to decompose into smaller molecules “going rancid” over time
letting out an unpleasant smell thus having a shorter shelf life.
Consumer also believe that the term ‘organic’ implies that the Expressed, solvent extracted absolutes and essential oils blended
product was grown in healthy soil under sunlight in a clean with carrier oils accelerate chemical reactions, as they are all
atmosphere very naturally and not in a chemical factory or sensitive to heat. Large molecules present therein are prone to
synthesized inside a laboratory. The reality is however di erent gradual decomposition even at normal temperatures. Exposure
as government regulations does not restrict, use of the word to heat shortens the shelf life of expressed, solvent extracted
‘natural’ in a label if the product contains compounds produced absolute and carrier blend oils and keeping it in refrigeration
by natural plants even though the content of that particular can extend its shelf life. Pure steam distilled essential oils on the
product may have been produced synthetically equating a other had have a long shelf life. Researchers nd that essential
natural living plant with that of a factory or in other words oils kept in moderately cool, dark places tightly sealed (from
a manufacturing plant. In case of essential oils chemistry exposure to air/elements in the Egyptian tombs) were aromatic
alone is not responsible for therapeutic and/or nutritional and therapeutically e ective even after thousands of years
properties, but also the vitality of a life force shaped by living giving rise to a contested view that pure unadulterated steam
processes that is absent in synthetic products manufactured distilled essential oils do not expire and can last for centuries.
in a dead environment like a laboratory or manufacturing Proper storage alone is required to maintain the potency of
plant. This becomes crucial in case of essential oils use with steam distilled pure essential oil. Pure steam distilled essential
synthetics becoming ine ective for aromatherapy healing. oils will remain stable at normal room temperatures and will be
However, numerous examples of products exists in the market una ected even when occasionally stored in hot environmental
erroneously labelled as containing natural ingredients when, conditions, provided we do not open the bottle until it has cooled
in reality it is totally manufactured in a laboratory namely fruit down to normal room temperatures. Refrigeration may not extend
their shelf life nor does cooler environment hurt them.
avours in drinks, chewable vitamins, candies, etc. Combining
the right type of esters, we can create the taste of bananas,
orange, lime, watermelon, apple, peach, raspberry, papaya,

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The above claim that distilled essential oils can last inde nitely Adulterated oils
without degradation has its basis on 2001 and 2004 articles
in the journal ‘Nature’ about the composition of mummy True therapeutic quality essential oil should contain hundreds of
embalming uids (preservatives). Continuation studies of the compounds, necessarily in a proper balance to possess healing
embalming process did reveal the use of fragrant plant materials power. Few of these numerous compounds alone signi cantly
but they do not even remotely suggest that essential oils do matter commercially in contributing to aroma and/or taste, for
not degrade or oxidize. Coniferous trees and myrrh resins used use in fragrances or avours. Manufacturers and consumers do
as embalming materials are not pure essential oils. We do not not care weather avours or fragrance natural or synthetic if
they are inexpensive and smell and taste like naturals. Hence,
nd the few diterpenoid acids (present in resins) in essential oils. fragrance and avours are usually incomplete composition, in
Detailed chemical analysis of the materials does show numerous comparison to the chemical pro le of a complete therapeutic
degradation products. Monoterpenoids and sesquiterpenoids essential oil. Additionally, to increase volumes and pro tability
on exposure to air undergo oxidation. Alcohol transforms to it may also contain synthetic compounds, adulterants or diluted
aldehyde, which in turn may turn into acid. Similar process is with petrochemicals. One can have adverse skin reactions when
responsible for wine turning into vinegar when it accidentally using such oils, but these are not reactions to true essential
encounters air during improper storage. Some monoterpenoids oils, as these reactions are due to the adulterants and not due
like geraniol found in geranium oil (Pelargonium graveolen the natural essential oil components of the oil. Adulterants can
- L’Her.) and grapefruit (Citrus paradisi - Macfad.) are more be very many. Some common ones are diluents like diethyl
prone to oxidation. Linalool found in lavender oil (Lavandula phthalate (DEP), synthetic extenders that mimic natural essential
angustifolia - Mill.) and immortelle oil (Helichrysum italicum oils, non-organic raw materials like arti cial fertilisers, chemical
-Roth) are more stable. Additionally, carbon-carbon double pesticides, etc., that all have adverse e ects on the skin, eyes,
bonds can split into single bonds grabbing oxygen atoms endocrine and nervous systems.
forming oxides, epoxides and peroxides. Virtually all essential
oil constituents are unsaturated compounds having carbon and Irritant & allergic reactions
therefore can undergo this same reaction to spoil or oxidize.
1. Irritant contact dermatitis – Irritation
Dangers of using an oxidized essential oil 2. Delayed hypersensitivity – Allergic contact dermatitis
3. Immediate hypersensitivity – Contact Urticaria
Oxidation spoils essential oils, degrading their aromatic quality
and therapeutic properties, further leading to the formation The above some adverse reaction types that occur when using
of skin irritants and powerful allergens. Using spoiled essential essential oils and this become apparent in form of redness,
oils may cause skin rashes and serious allergic reactions. itching, burning or formation of tiny blisters (Hives) within 5-10
Radical change in the aroma and consistency (darkening, minutes of application. Irritation reactions resolve itself within a
clouding, sti ening etc.) indicate that the essential oil is spoilt few hours, whereas allergic reactions remain for days or weeks,
and oxidized. Geranial an oxidation product of geraniol is sometime even spreading to those body parts where there is
much more likely to cause an allergic reaction than the parent no direct essential oil application. One important point to note
compound. Tea tree essential oil can oxidise and forms allergic is that further dilution of the essential oil may prevent irritation
epoxides triggering allergic reactions much stronger than reaction to recur during subsequent use, but will surely not
reactions to the fresh oil. Likewise, air exposure of lavender prevent allergic reactions from recurring.
essential oil oxidises linalyl acetate to hyper oxides and epoxides
that are strong allergens. In short, spoiled (oxidized) essential Allergic contact dermatitis – delayed hypersensitivity
oils have a greater risk of triggering an allergic reaction during
human use. Since oxidation requires oxygen, it is important Allergic contact dermatosis is an adverse skin reaction to
to store essential oils in an airtight bottle in a cool (preferably essential oils that does not occur on rst time use but happens
fridge), dark place away from light and using it up before 2-3 after subsequent uses due to the involvement of the body
years is ideal. It is also important to understand the often- immune system. The schematic photograph (Courtesy: Tisserand
misunderstood word “sensitization” which actually means Institute / Warshaw et al) explains the complex mechanism
preparing or readying the inherent human immune system prior that takes place to speci c persons not all. Literature states
to a icting the individual to an adverse allergic skin reaction. that essential oils like Cinnamon bark (cinnamaldehyde),
Incidentally, Agarwood oil (Aquilaria Agallocha / Aquilaria Lemongrass (citral), Ylang-Ylang, Helichrysum, Lavender and
Malaccensis), Patchouli oil (Pogostemon cablin – Blanco), Tea Tree oils are prone to causing allergic reactions than others.
Sandalwood oil (Santalum album) and Vetiver oil (Chrysopogon (See photographs from Tisserand Institute Adverse Reaction
zizanioides – L) are exceptions as they do not spoil with time. All Database, showing allergic reactions to essential oils). More
other essential oils have a limited shelf life. dilute an essential oil is the lower the risk of su ering from
allergic contact dermatitis and more concentrated an essential
oil is, higher the risk. Females are at larger risk than are males

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due to individual hormones. Frequency and duration of and non-immunological, namely IgE-mediated, Immunological
application are also responsible factors for allergy risk. Persons Contact Urticaria (ICU) and Non-Immunological (NICU). ICU
su ering from atopic dermatitis are at larger risk, so also persons can involve the respiratory system or the gastro-intestinal tract
with seasonal allergies and those prone to skin allergies, either sometimes causing fatal anaphylactic shock. (Bhatia et al, Davari
due to genetic reasons or due to immune-reacting cells drifting & Maibach). Point to note is that there are reported cases of
from one portion of the body to a di erent part of the human probable anaphylaxis to cinnamaldehyde. (Diba & Statham).
body. Acute phase of allergic reactions usually lasts for hours, Persons su ering from anaphylaxis show the following signs.
sometimes for weeks and in some rare cases for years before the • They have di culty in breathing.
skin calms down. Further re-application of the same product • They have swollen lips, tongue and throat.
could lead to a relapse of another bout of allergic reactions. The • There is an alarming drop in blood pressure.
use of steroids as a treatment procedure may be helpful. In any • There are widespread hives, redness and itching.
case, it is better safe for such individuals to avoid using essential
oils throughout life.

Multiple hypersensitivities

Sometimes, people who are allergic to one essential oil may
develop allergies to many other essential oils even though the
di erent essential oils in question have no chemical relationship.
In such cases, it is better to avoid using essential oils, after some
months lag and reaching complete skin and body normalisation
reintroduce usage, one oil at a time and thereby identifying
the allergy causing essential oil for future total avoidance.
Sometimes due to continuous long usage of essential oils, one
can develop sudden widespread allergic reactions. It is a simple
way for our body to indicate ‘enough of essential oils’, no more.

Contact urticaria and anaphylaxis Human sensitivities to essential oils

Contact urticaria is similar to the allergic reaction one gets from One group of researchers like Dr David Stewart says that one
a bee sting (see Photograph – Courtesy: Tisserand Institute). can be sensitive to essential oils, but not allergic. Allergies
Contact Urticaria can be of two types namely immunological are mistaken immune responses to nitrogen compounds like
proteins, peptides and amino acids, none of which are present
in essential oils. It claims that carrier blended oils in use as
aromatherapy oils contains cold pressed vegetable oil such as
olive, corn, coconut, peanut, walnut, almond, etc., which can
have small amounts of proteins. Allergic reaction is possible in
case of use of cold pressed citrus oils like orange, lemon, lime,
grapefruit and solvent extracted oils jasmine and neroli. This
school believes that expressed and solvent extracted oils strictly
speaking are not true essential oils as they can contain traces
of proteins, peptides or amino acids. Steam distilled essential

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oils do not have those compounds critical to trigger allergies, as 1. One scienti c group believes that essential oil sensitivities
these compounds do not pass through the distillation process producing skin rashes and other allergic-like symptoms
and hence sensitivities in the sense of allergic reactions are like nausea and headaches is always a detox reaction.
not possible with them. Allergic sensitivities happen when the According to this school, allergic reactions worsen with
human body develops antibodies as a response to nitrogenous every exposure to the o ending substance (allergen),
molecules and antibodies do not form in humans from essential whereas in case of a detox reaction it eventually gets less
oils use. In case an individual has an adverse reaction to any severe with each exposure nally disappearing once the
essential oil, it is not an allergy but something else. toxins clear from the system. When an essential oil give
a detox reaction (which is a positive sign), the individual
Robert Tisserand, however states, “Most cases of contact needs to stop using oils for a short while, increase their
dermatitis to essential oils are allergic as distinct from irritant” water intake to get into a cleansing routine. It believes
(Tisserand & Young). This second group of scientists a rm that that in this case, the oils are detoxing faster than the colon
essential oils do contain a large number of small molecules and kidneys can handle that the toxins excrete through
(haptens) that can bind to proteins present in the human body the skin. Temporarily stopping intake of the essential oil
forming complexes (haptenated proteins) that will initiate and increasing water intake allows the body to increase
an immune system response causing allergic reactions (Drs the rate of detox down to levels easy for ushing out
Purchon and Cantele). Hapten urushiol causes the famous through the kidneys and colon. The detoxi cation process
allergic reaction to poison ivy. Similarly, Penicillin is another inspite of typically leading to uncomfortable symptoms
example of a hapten that can cause anaphylaxis according to Dr like gastrointestinal upset, fatigue and headache these
Scott Johnson. Allergic reaction to essential oils is uncommon; practitioners broadly see it as a positive outcome with
however, some common essential oils, like tea tree (Australia respect to the elimination, cleansing and puri cation of the
Melaleuca alternifolia – Cheel) and lavender (L. angustifolia) human body.
show these reactions, according to con rmed reports available.
One scienti c study report put forth a view that 35 di erent 2. The above detox theory de es and contradicts
essential oils, including bergamot (Citrus aurantium (L.) conventional thinking suggesting that an adverse reaction
var. bergamia), chamomile (German Matricaria recutita (L.), is actually a sign of a positive (detoxi cation) favourable
geranium (P. graveolens) and ylang (Cananga odorata (Lam.) response aligning an additive process (topical use of
var., genuine) may also trigger allergic reactions. an essential oil or blend) with an elimination process
(detoxi cation). Elimination of unwanted substances
Detox reactions through skin happens when uids exit the human body
through either sweat (perspiration) glands or sebaceous
Potentially poisonous or harmful material creating local or glands (boils, acne, etc.). According to scientists, excretion
systemic adverse reaction and capable of causing serious of toxins through skin is below 1%; therefore, people
debilitation or even death is termed as ‘Toxin’. ‘Toxicity’, is ‘the experiencing skin due to topical application of essential oil
degree to which a substance can damage the body’ and is reaction is actually sweating out the toxins, is unbelievable
dependent upon the dose. Water too when taken in a high dose to be right.
can lead to water intoxication. A single very high exposure or
continuous long-term exposure may lead to toxicity when a 3. Sometimes a person can give an allergic response to a
toxic material overcomes human body’s detoxi cation systems. perfectly pure therapeutic quality essential oil the speci c
Toxicity may be aggravated either by individual sensitivity or individual is unhappy and so reacting negatively. Accepting
through interactions with other substances present in the body the source of the grief and dealing with it can make such
(Tisserand & Young) and intensi es when multiple substances sensitivities disappear within a few days.
containing the same toxin combines elevating the total risk to
which an individual is exposed (Bates). The metabolic process by Recommendations
which toxins change into less toxic or more readily excretable
substances is detoxi cation. National Association of Holistic Aromatherapy (NAHA) and the
nursing textbook, Foundations of Nursing strongly recommends
In humans, the organs of elimination are the liver and kidneys at least carrying out a skin patch test prior to using a new
along with skin and the digestive system, which provide for the essential oil to rule out the possibility of any potential allergic
ongoing detoxi cation. Detoxi cation thus encompasses most reaction. However, patch testing that requires a quali ed
processes that eliminates or reduce the presence of a perceived dermatologist, specially prepared patches is also laborious in
toxin or harmful substance. Dramatic reduction of food intake practice. Patch testing is not very reliable, with false positives
(increasing liquid intake) for speci c time and/or altogether or negatives, sometimes itself producing allergic reactions not
eliminating speci c foods or liquids from diets through fasts is likely to occur otherwise.
one method to detoxify.
In a high-risk individual, having an experience of topical allergic
reactions or multiple chemical sensitivity, a dose escalation

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testing is advisable instead of patch testing where in application Common name Botanical name Topical
of essential oil starts with a low dilution and then gradually maximum
increasing the concentration in in nitesimal stages to get the Bay oil (West Indian) Pimenta racemosa
required aromatherapy e ects. limit %
Cassia oil Cinnaomum cassia 0.9
Moreover, most adverse reactions happen due to the presence 0.05
natural constituents in an essential oil itself. Oregano oil Cinnamon bark oil Cinnamomum verum 0.1
contains 70-80% content of carvacrol a con rmed irritant. 0.6
Cinnamaldehyde, a recognised allergen is present at 65-80% Cinnamon leaf oil Cinnamomum verum 0.5
levels in Cinnamon bark oil. Bergamot oil contains 0.3% potent 1.0
photosensitizer bergapten. Even the ‘most pure’ essential oil Clove bud oil Syzigium aromaticum 0.7
could oxidise causing allergy, irritation, photo toxicity, etc., and 0.7
it would not be wise to dismiss this indicative response and Holy basil oil Ocimum tenui orum
continuing the use of the allergen (essential oil) aggravating the 0.7
situation further and putting health and happiness in jeopardy. Jasmine absolute Jasminum grandi orum
0.01
As consumers what should one do to minimise the risk of Lemon myrtle oil Backhousia citriodora 0.8
adverse reactions while using essential oils & absolutes 0.9
Lemongrass oil Cymbopogon citratus or 0.1
1. Do not use concentrated, adulterated, impure essential oils. exuosus 0.6
2. Observe caution when using essential oils during bathing. 0.4
3. Always follow safety guidelines for high-risk essential oils. Massoia oil Cryptocarya massoy
4. Do not use the same essential oil, blend for very long 0.8
May chang oil Listsea cubeba
period (months/years) or better avoid it totally. 0.8
Melissa oil Melissa o cinalis
Essential oils use – perceptions & reality
Oakmoss absolute Evernia prunastri
People wrongly believe that essential oils are harmless since
they are natural and in used for long. Numerous essential Opoponax oil Commiphora guidotti
oils can cause skin rashes and work like poison if absorbed
through topical skin application or ingestion. Aspirating Peru balsam oil Myroxylon balsamum
an essential oil can cause pneumonia; and the person can
choke on swallowing. Every individual will react di erently to Tea tree oil Leptospermum pertresonii
essential oils and essential oils containing consumer products, (Lemon scented)
similar to medicines with children more susceptible to its
toxicity than elders do. It is important to understand that there Ylang – Ylang oil Cananga odorata
exists no strict regulation for sale or marketing of essential oils
and so di cult for consumers to know what is exactly present Courtesy: Tisserand Institute
in the product purchased.
Important points to note
Irritant essential oils
• Peppermint is good for use in gastrointestinal discomfort.
Common name Botanical name Topical However, pennyroyal (a peppermint species) oil is very
maximum poisonous a ecting human liver.
Ajowan oil Trachysperum ammi
Garlic oil Allium sativum limit % • Wintergreen oil is present in some OTC skin preparations
Massoia oil Cryptocarya massoy 1.4 to relieve pain. It creates a warm feeling by enlarging the
Oregano oil Origanum vulgare 0.1 blood vessels. Oil of wintergreen is a avouring agent in
Summer Savory oil Satureia hortensis 0.01 small dosages but a dangerous drug behaving like aspirin
Thyme oil (thymol/carvacrol) Thymus vulgaris 1.1 (acetylsalicylic acid) in higher consumption levels.
Winter Savory oil Satureia montana 1.4
1.3 • We use nutmeg and mace in our food preparations.
1.2 When in excess it can cause nausea, vomiting, agitation,
prolonged drowsiness, hallucinations and coma.
Allergenic essential oils
• Eucalyptus vapours that are soothing during cough and
cold can also cause seizures if swallowed.

• Sage oil that is a good seasoning agent can even in small
amount lead to seizures in children.

• Camphor a common ingredient in food, skin preparations,
moth repellents, etc., can lead to seizures in children.

• Vanilla extract contains ethanol.
• The poppy seeds are a common food ingredient in cooking.

However, when a person consumes lot of poppy seeds, a
drug test on the individual could be positive for heroin as
poppy seeds too breaks down into morphine or codeine
similar to heroin.
• Tea tree oil coming from an Australian tree (Melaleuca

www.ffwindia.com 29

Expert View

alternifolia) leaves is historically in use as a natural remedy oil oregano burns the mouth and throat, it is advisable to apply or

for skin ailments, bruises, burns, sores, corns, eczema, insect drink vegetable oil instead of water for immediate relief.

bites, psoriasis, rosacea, scabies, respiratory conditions

like cough colds, bronchial congestion, nose and throat Simultaneous use of essential oils & pharmaceutical drugs

irritation, other conditions like melanoma, body odour and A common consumer question is whether one can use essential
infections of the prostate and bone. Scienti c studies also oils (topically, orally or by inhalation), along with a prescription

indicate some activity against microbes and fungi. drug. Incidentally, there are no speci c citations or publications

• Tea tree oil in higher concentrations can irritate the skin, indicating any adverse reactions between essential oils and

cause allergic skin reactions and may have hormonal e ects. drugs. It is also possible that incidences of adverse interactions
between drugs and essential oils exist, but not reported or
• Tea tree oil is not suitable for ingestion even though some categorised. In any case, it is better to be cautious and not over
traditionalists’ use it as a mouthwash and as a treatment use essential oils. Remember the age-old Indian saying,
for bad breath, toothache and mouth ulcers. Tea tree oil is

poisonous and is not for use in or around the mouth at all.

• Large quantities of tea tree oil causes poisoning e ects

on Cats and dogs show poisoning e ects like excessive

salivation low body temperature, weakness, muscle tremors

and di culty in walking.

Hot oils

Essential oils that contain phenolic compounds capable to clean
our cells and pave the way to heal are termed as hot oils, namely
thyme, oregano, cassia, cinnamon, etc. It is better to use these oils
with extreme caution. In case of burning or irritation, occurring to
the skin during use early application of a vegetable oil layer over
the essential oil can resolve the problem. In case of inadvertent
use or spillage of essential oil in eyes, skin or on swallowing, a hot

30 www.ffwindia.com

VOL. I, NO. 4 | AUG-SEPT 2018

Lavender Farming– A win-win
proposition

Lavendula, common name Lavender is a genus of 47 known During the rst year, the owers are not produced for commercial
species of owering plants in the mint family, Lamiaceae. purposes. From second year the owers are used for the
It is native to the Old World and is found from Cape Verde extraction of oil. The oil is produced from the fresh ower spikes
and the Canary Island, Europe across to northern and eastern and the average percentage of oil extraction ranges from 1% to
Africa, the Mediterranean, southwest Asia to India. Many 1.5% (from 100 kg owers, oil extraction ranges from 1-1.5 kg oil).
members of the genus are cultivated extensively in temperate The plant can give grow owers up to the age of 12-14 years.
climates as ornamental plants for garden and landscape use. It
is being cultivated by the farmers on their eld for oil extraction Lavender Nursery:
purposes for several years now. This oil is very much in demand.
Lavender is being mostly propagated through cuttings. The
Scienti c Classi cation: cuttings of 10-15cm can be taken from the plants and after
treatment with root hormones, can be planted on nursery beds at
Kingdom – Plantae a distance of 6-10cm during the month of November-December.
On nusery beds a mulching should be used to discourage the
Order – Lamiales growth of weeds. After a year, the well grown new lavender plant
can be ready for transplanting to the main eld. Depending on
Family – Lamiaceae the farmers knowledge and other factors like irrigation facilities,
60%-90% success can be achieved in a nursery.
Genus – Lavendula

Description:

The genus includes annual or short lived herbacious perennial
plants, and shrub like perennials. Diverse leaf shapes are
found across the genus. They are simple in some commonly
cultivated species while in others, they are innately toothed or
pinnate, sometimes multiple pinnate and dissected. In most
species the leaves are covered with ne hairs or indumentum,
which normally contain the essential oils. Flowers are borne in
whorls, held on spikes rising above the foliage, the spikes being
branched in some species. The owers may be blue, violet
or lilac. They are also occasionally found in blackish purple or
yellowish colors.

Cultivation: Due to huge demand of lavender plants, nursery establishment
by the unemployed youth can play a good source of employment.
The most common form in cultivation is the common or English Under centrally sponsored scheme of Mission for Integrated
lavender Lavendula angustifolia (formerly named Lavendula Development of Horticulture, 50% incentive is being provided
o cinalis). Other commonly grown ornamental species are L. for establishment of private nurseries.
stoechas, L.dentata and L.multi da (Egyptian lavender). Lavender
Why lavender should be cultivated by the farmers of temperate region
ourish best in dry, well drained, sandy or gravelly soil with good • Lavender is perennial crop and the labour and other input
sunshine. This plant can withstand stress of drought for longer
period of time. Lavender cannot be grown in water-logged or costs in its cultivation decrease many folds as compared to
submerged or marshy soils. other crops.

Lavender needs little or no fertilizer and good air circulation. • Most of the hilly areas in temperate region of this country are
Lavender is mostly grown through small plants at a distance of rainy except perhaps, the Kashmir valley. Lavender needs
around 02 feet between row to row and between plant to plant
from the rst week of December to second fortnight of February.
It owers during June-July depending on the altitude of the
cultivation area.

www.ffwindia.com 31

Flavours & Fragrances

less water as compared to other crops which are cultivated in great demand in perfumery, avouring, cosmetics and soap
in these areas. industry. This oil is most commonly known for its relaxing e ects
on the body.
• Lavender oil is in great demand and farmers can earn good
income by cultivating it as compared to other traditional The dry lavender owers are being used as:
crops like maize, wheat or barley. • Pot pouri.
• Home made soap.
• Lavender can be grown as intercrop in horticulture orchards. • Car scent.
In temperate regions horticulture orchards are mostly • Salad dressings.
established by the farmers. More income can be generated • Used in sachets and arranged in bowls for adding soothing
per unit area and time through cultivation of lavender as
intercrop in orchards. scents to houses.
• Added to bubble bath to make fragrant as well as fun.
• In hilly areas monkeys and other animals create problems for • Insect repellent.
the farmers in cultivation of traditional crops or horticulture
crops. Lavender is the best alternative for such areas. Flower water can also be made and used to sooth sensitive skin
from rashes and quell the heat of acne prone skin. The price of
Lavender oil and Dry lavender owers lavender oil ranges from Rs. 8000 to Rs. 10000 per kg.

Lavender oil is an essential oil obtained by distillation from Written by Mr Arjun Singh Parihar, Asstt. Floriculture O cer,
ower spikes. It’s a colorless oil, insoluble in water. It is not a pure Department of Floriculture, Jammu (Jammu & Kashmir)

compound; it is a complex mixture of phytochemicals including
linalool and linalyl acetate. On an average 30-45kg of lavender
oil can be extracted from owers of one hectare area of lavender
crop. Lavender oil is the most versatile of all essential oils. It is

32 www.ffwindia.com

VOL. I, NO. 4 | AUG-SEPT 2018

Fragrances market–global industry
size, share, trends, analysis, and
forecasts 2012 - 2018

• F&F Correspondent Marketing gurus never miss a trick and a popular selling
trend is the promotion of celebrity-inspired perfumes.
The appeal of fragrances is primitive and inherent in These include fragrances endorsed by leading personalities
the nature of living beings. Nevertheless, fragrances in various walks of life as well as signature scents used by
were erroneously regarded as frivolous and non- celebrities as a self-promotion campaign. Fragrances such
essential commodities by most. Fragrances today, have as these garner much hype among certain sections of the
seamlessly transformed themselves into essential day- consumer base but are by no means infalliable. This trend has
to-day products that form a signi cant part of personal been prevalent across regions such as North America, Europe,
grooming. Fragrances are a vital and mainstream element and some countries in the Asia-Paci c region. However,
of the cosmetics industry and have gained much attention market analysts state that this fad was met with negative
from consumers across the globe. response in the United Arab Emirates owing to vast diversity
in population. People living in the UAE may or may not
Fragrances are a way of expressing personal style and associate with celebrities from countries such as the United
individuality and is a pro table consumer-driven industry States, the United Kingdom, Australia, Canada, Spain, and
globally. The fragrances market is also dictated by ckle Italy, which leaves the fragrances market relatively unchanged
and ever-changing fashion trends. This means that when it comes to celebrity-inspired scents.
manufacturers in the industry are on a constant lookout
for exciting, unique, and new fragrances to attract di erent
consumer segments worldwide.

A recent research report that decodes the fragrances market and
provides clients with an unmatched and invaluable evaluation of
the overall industry has been prepared by Transparency Market
Research (https://www.transparencymarketresearch.com)

Delving deeper into the fragrances market and its various
nuances, this comprehensive publication discusses the factors
governing the global and regional industrial landscape. The
report, with the help of accurate and insightful statistics, throws
light on the size, volume, and share of the global fragrances
market and also provides strategic recommendations to help
improve businesses.

A sneak peek at the global fragrances market Premium brands account for a major share of the fragrances
market in UAE owing to exceptional per capita incomes. In
It is a no-brainer that fragrances have achieved much other parts of the world, this segment has gained demand
importance among personal care and grooming products. As in recent years thanks to rising disposable incomes and
might be expected, the women’s fragrances segment dominates improving economies. Chanel, Gucci, Calvin Klein, Christian
the overall market and as a result, a majority of the innovations Dior, Prada, Yves Saint Laurent, and Louis Vuitton are some of
and product di erentiations are targeted at this segment. the premium companies that have established themselves in
However, even though fragrances for the fairer sex have long the fragrances market.
since captured the market, perfumes and fragrances for men
have, of late, grabbed the attention of industry players. This has
had a transformational impact on the global market and has set
the pace for rapid expansion in the coming years.

www.ffwindia.com 33

Health Benefits

Companies mentioned in the research report • Market growth drivers
• Factors limiting market growth
The leading players in the global fragrances market include • Current market trends
Waitrose, Savers Health & Beauty, The L’Oréal Group, Clarins • Market structure
Group, Superdrug Stores PLC, Co-Operative Food/Somer eld, • Market projections for the coming years
The Estée Lauder Companies Inc., LLOYD Shoes GmbH,
Sainsbury’s, Boots UK Limited, MAC Cosmetics, Tesco PLC, The Key highlights of this report
Body Shop International PLC, Givaudan, Vantage, Morrisons, and
Asda Stores Ltd. • Overview of key market forces propelling and restraining
market growth
Market segmentation
• Up-to-date analyses of market trends and technological
• Fine fragrances improvements
• Detergents and soaps
• Household products • Pin-point analyses of market competition dynamics to offer
• Cosmetics you a competitive edge

Major geographies analyzed under this research report are: • An analysis of strategies of major competitors
• An array of graphics and SWOT analysis of major industry
• Europe
• North America segments
• Asia-Pacific • Detailed analyses of industry trends
• Rest of the World • A well-defined technological growth map with an impact-
• This report gives you access to decisive data such as:
analysis
• Offers a clear understanding of the competitive landscape

and key product segments

34 www.ffwindia.com

VOL. I, NO. 4 | AUG-SEPT 2018

Neem; the bitter path to good health

Have you ever noticed that the things that are best for you are the least attractive to the senses?
When we were children, we were told to eat veggies, barley, porridge and other tasteless stu but
prevented from eating too much of chocolates, chips and other goodies that made our mouths
water. That alas, is the bitter truth that we need to gulp down.

• F&F Correspondent may shed most of its leaves or nearly all leaves. The branches
are wide and spreading. The fairly dense crown is roundish
Nature has this penchant to give us easy things that and may reach a diameter of 20–25 metres (66–82 ft). The
we have no gratitude for, such as air, water, hills and neem tree is very similar in appearance to its relative, the
valleys, beautiful landscapes and colorful and fragrant Chinaberry (Melia azedarach).
owers. We take all this for granted and want more. But nature
also has a sadistic side for us ungrateful wretches. If we fall ill, The opposite, pinnate leaves are 20–40 centimetres (7.9–15.7
medicines are almost invariably either bitter or bad tasting. in) long, with 20 to 31 medium to dark green lea ets about
In other words, Mother Nature makes sure we learn to value 3–8 centimetres (1.2–3.1 in) long. The terminal lea et often is
her gifts-even if we make a face every time we are forced to missing. The petioles are short.
consume those gifts. Gifts like the Neem, for example.
Azadirachta indica, commonly known as neem, nimtree or The (white and fragrant) owers are arranged in more-or-less
Indian lilac, is a tree in the mahogany family Meliaceae. drooping axillary panicles which are up to 25 centimetres
(9.8 in) long. The in orescences, which branch up to the third
degree, bear from 150 to 250 owers. An individual ower is 5–6
millimetres (0.20–0.24 in) long and 8–11 millimetres (0.31–0.43
in) wide. Protandrous, bisexual owers and male owers exist on
the same individual tree.

Scienti c name: Azadirachta indica The fruit is a smooth (glabrous), olive-like drupe which varies in
shape from elongate oval to nearly roundish, and when ripe is
Other name(s): Antelaea azadirachta, Arishta, Arishtha, 1.4–2.8 centimetres (0.55–1.10 in) by 1.0–1.5 centimetres (0.39–
Azadirachta indica, Bead Tree, Holy Tree, Huile de Neem, Indian 0.59 in). The fruit skin (exocarp) is thin and the bitter-sweet pulp
Lilac, Indian Neem, Lilas des Indes, Lilas de Perse, Margosa, (mesocarp) is yellowish-white and very brous. The mesocarp
Margosa Tree, Margousier, Margousier à Feuilles de Frêne, is 0.3–0.5 centimetres (0.12–0.20 in) thick. The white, hard inner
Margousier d’Inde, Melia azadirachta, Neem Oil, Neem Tree, Melia shell (endocarp) of the fruit encloses one, rarely two, or three,
azadirachta, Nim, Nimb, Nimba, Persian Lilac, Pride of China. elongated seeds (kernels) having a brown seed coat.

Family: Meliaceae The neem tree is often confused with a similar looking tree
called bakain. Bakain also has toothed lea ets and similar
Rank: Species looking fruit. One di erence is that neem leaves are pinnate
but bakain leaves are twice- and thrice-pinnate. Its fruit are
Kingdom: Plantae shaped like miniature apples.

Higher classi cation: Azadirachta Like most medicinal and multi-faceted plants and herbs,
the humble neem is also used to manufacture various oils,
Did you know? It is evergreen, but in serious drought it may medicines and other stu that helps mankind in various
lose most or nearly all of its leaves. ways. But the unique quality of neem leaf that few others
share, is that it can be applied directly to wounds and serve
Neem is the common name of a fast-growing tree that can as a quick x rst aid tool.
reach a height of 15–20 metres (49–66 ft), and rarely 35–40
metres (115–131 ft). It is evergreen, but in severe drought it Wikipedia educates us about some interesting facets of
neem that few may know. Neem is considered a weed in

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Flavours & Fragrances

many areas, including some parts of the Middle East, most neem solutions are currently being studied for their e ects
of Sub-Saharan Africa including West Africa and Indian on cancer, diabetes, heart disease, and AIDS. In 1993, in a
Ocean states, and some parts of Australia. Ecologically, it preliminary study, the National Institutes of Health reported
survives well in similar environments to its own, but its weed positive results from in vitro tests where neem bark extracts
potential has not been fully assessed. killed the AIDS virus. Using extracts made by soaking neem
bark in water, Dr. Van Der Nat of the Netherlands found that
In April 2015, A. indica was declared a class B and C weed in the the extract produced a strong immune stimulating reaction.
Northern Territory, Australia, meaning its growth and spread Studies reported in 1992 and 1994 showed neem’s ability to
must be controlled and plants or propagules are not allowed to enhance the cell-mediated immune response may be used to
be brought into the NT. It is illegal to buy, sell, or transport the provide protection from vaginal contraction of the disease if
plants or seeds. Its declaration as a weed came in response to its neem is used as a vaginal lubricant preceding intercourse. AIDS
invasion of waterways in the “Top End” of the territory. may possibly be treated by ingesting neem leaf extracts or the
whole leaf or by drinking a neem tea.
After being introduced into Australia, possibly in the 1940s, A.
indica was originally planted in the Northern Territory to provide
shade for cattle. Trial plantations were established between
the 1960s and 1980s in Darwin, Queensland, and Western
Australia, but the Australian neem industry did not prove viable.
The tree has now spread into the savanna, particularly around
waterways, and naturalised populations exist in several areas.

Medicinal properties and other amazing qualities of neem

Medicinal properties of neem have been known to Indians since
time immemorial. The earliest Sanskrit medical writings refer to
the bene ts of neem’s fruits, seeds, oil, leaves, roots and bark.
Each of these has been used in the Indian Ayurvedic and Unani
systems of medicine.

In Ayurvedic literature neem is described in the following Neem contains immune modulating polysaccharide
manner: ‘Neem bark is cool, bitter, astringent, acrid and compounds; the polysaccharide may be responsible for
refrigerant. It is useful in tiredness, cough, fever, loss of appetite, increasing antibody production. Other elements of neem may
worm infestation. It heals wounds and vitiated conditions of stimulate immune function by enhancing cellular mediated
kapha, vomiting, skin diseases, excessive thirst, and diabetes. response. This dual action can help the body ward o the
Neem leaves are reported to be bene cial for eye disorders and frequent infections that generally accompany AIDS.
insect poisons. It treats Vatik disorder. It is anti-leprotic. It’s fruits
are bitter, purgative, anti-hemorrhoids and anthelmintic’. Arthritis

It is claimed that neem provides an answer to many incurable Neem has a long history of relieving in amed joints, supported
diseases. Traditionally neem products have been used against a by recent scienti c studies. Most anti-in ammatories, such as
wide variety of diseases which include heat-rash, boils, wounds, aspirin and ibuprofen, irritate the stomach and may be the
jaundice, leprosy, skin disorders, stomach ulcers, chicken pox, major cause for upper GI bellding.
etc. Modern research also con rms neem’s curative powers in
case of many diseases and provides indications that neem might Ulcers sometimes occur as a result of taking too much
in future be used much more widely. Some important medical of these over-the counter drugs. Neem is comparably
and veterinary application of neem is given on this website. e ective, anti-in ammatory and does not adversely a ect
the stomach. The active constituents in its leaves relieve
AIDS pain by acting on the prostaglandin mechanism and
signi cantly reduce acute derma.
Some of the best news is that neem may help in the search for a Several studies have shown its usefulness with the disease.
prevention or a cure for AIDS. Some studies have looked at the ability of neem leaf
extracts to reduce in ammation. One suggested that the
So far, the National Institutes of Health reports encouraging
results from in vitro tests for an AIDS prevention and possible
cure using extracts from the tree. Professionally administered

36 www.ffwindia.com

VOL. I, NO. 4 | AUG-SEPT 2018

phenolic compounds containing catechin (which possess extract around various tumors have shown sizable reduction
anti-in ammatory properties) may produce the anti- in a few weeks’ time.
in ammatory e ects.
Dental Care
Another investigation found that quercetin, an antibacterial People in both India and Africa have used neem twigs as tooth
compound, exists in neem leaves. Other studies have shown brushes for centuries. Neem twigs contain antiseptic ingredients
that the polysaccharides in neem reduce the in ammation and necessary for dental hygiene. Neem powder is also used to
swelling that occur in arthritis. Not only does neem help reduce brush teeth and massage gums.
in ammation; it also has pain suppressing properties. Neem
can also help create a balance in the immune system, directly In Germany many researchers have shown that neem extracts
a ecting the progression of arthritis. prevent tooth decay and periodontal disease.

Infections, tooth decay, bleeding and sore gums have all
been treated successfully with daily use of neem mouth rinse
or neem leaf extract added to the water. Some people have
reported a total reversal of gum degeneration after using
neem for only a few months.

Cancer Diabetes

Throughout Southeast Asia neem has been used successfully by Because neem is a tonic and a revitalizer, it works e ectively
herbalists for hundreds of years to reduce tumors. Researchers in the treatment of diabetes, as well. More than a disease
are now supporting these uses. Neem has been tested on many that requires change of diet, diabetes is the leading cause of
types of cancers, such as skin cancers, using neem-based creams blindness in people ages twenty- ve and seventy-four; it also
and lymphocytic cancer, using the herb internally. In India, damages nerves, kidneys, hear and blood vessels; it may even
Europe and Japan scientists have found that polysaccharides result in the loss of limbs.
and limonoids in neem bark, leaves and seed oil reduced tumors
and cancers and were e ective against lymphocytic leukemia. Incurable, it can be treated in a variety of ways. One
recommendation is to take one tablespoon (5ml) of neem
In Japan, several issued patents included hot water neem leaf juice daily on an empty stomach each morning for three
bark extracts; these were e ective against several types months. An alternative is to chew or take in powder form ten
of cancer. Several extracts were tested at di erent doses (10) neem leaves daily in the morning. Some studies have
and were compared to standard anticancer agents. Many shown that oral application of neem leaf extracts reduced a
extracts were equal or better than the standard treatments patient’s insulin requirements by between 30 and 50 percent
against solid tumors. Results of tests performed with a more for non-keytonic, insulin fast and insulin-sensitive diabetes.
puri ed extract of the bark produced even better results.
Further studies using pure active compounds are hoped to Because neem has been found to reduce insulin
produce even more impressive results. requirements by up to 50 percent, without altering blood
glucose levels, the Indian Government has approved the
In another study, one researcher used an extract of neem sale of neem capsules and tablets through pharmacies and
leaves to prevent the adhesion of cancer cells to other body clinics for this purpose. Many of these pills are made of
cells. If cancers can’t stick to other cells, the cancer can’t spread essentially pure, powdered neem leaves.
throughout the body and is more easily destroyed.
Karnim, one medication that contains neem and a number of
Neem’s success has been noticeably remarkable with skin other herbs, available in many countries for treating diabetes,
cancers. A number of reports have been made by patients that was found to lower blood sugar by more than 50 percent in
their skin cancers have disappeared after several months of twenty weeks and to maintain that level thereafter.
using a neem-based cream on a daily basis. Injections of neem
Heart Disease

Major causes of a heart attack include blood clots, high
cholesterol, arrhythmic heart action and high blood pressure.
Neem has been helpful in these conditions too. Its leaf extracts
have reduced clotting, lowered blood pressure and bad
cholesterol, slowed rapid or abnormally high heartbeat and

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Flavours & Fragrances

inhibited irregular heart rhythms. Some compounds may Rheumatism
produce e ects similar to mild sedatives, which reduce anxiety
and other emotional or physical states that may prompt a heart Neem leaves have anti-in ammatory activity, similar to that in
attack. The antihistamine e ects of the nimbidin in its leaves drugs such as phenyl butazone and cortisone. They can relieve
cause blood vessels to dilate. This may be why the leaves help pain and reduce acute pain edema. For rheumatism, tropical
reduce blood pressure. applications of a warmed neem cream that contains neem oil
and perhaps a mild neem tea will help lessen pain.

A recent study proved that, when a patient took either neem Stress
leaf extract or neem capsules for a month, her high cholesterol
levels fell subsequently. In another study, alcoholic extract of Relatively new scienti c ndings indicate that neem
neem leaves reduced serum cholesterol by approximately 30 may even be useful for reducing anxiety and stress. An
percent two hours after its administration. The cholesterol level experiment was done on test animals to see what, if any
stayed low for an additional four hours until testing ceased. e ect neem leaf extract had on these conditions. Fresh
leaves were crushed and the liquid squeezed out to produce
Another study showed that an intravenous alcoholic extract a leaf extract. The extract was given orally to three main sets
of the leaf produced a large, immediate decrease in blood of animals, in two standard stress tests.
pressure, lasting for several hours. A neem leaf extract, sodium
nimbidinate, given to those with congestive cardiac failure, was One group received salt water as a base control; another
successful as a diuretic. Regarding arrhythmic heart action, received Valium; another received the neem leaf extract. The
neem leaf extract exhibited anti-arrhythmic activity, which third group was subdivided into sets that received ever larger
returned to normal within eight minutes of administration. doses. In the elevated plus maze test, doses of neem leaf extract
upto 200 mg/kg showed important antianxiety activity equal to
Malaria or greater than Valium. The test doses of neem leaf extract upto
100 mg/kg were equal to Valium in their antianxiety e ect. At
According to the Neem Association, an international nonpro t 800 mg/kg the e ects of the neem totally disappeared. Neem
organization, malaria a ects hundreds of millions of people extracts apparently only work in small doses for this application.
worldwide and kills more than two million every year. Malaria is
quite common in India and throughout the tropics. The explanation of neem’s antianxiety e ect may be its ability to
increase the amount of serotonin in the brain. Because it works
Neem has been shown to be e ective in a number of ways well in small amounts, it could be safer than drugs currently
against this deadly disease. Both water and alcohol based used for stress, which may cause many side e ects.
neem leaf extracts have been con rmed as e ective. It
has been shown to block the development of the gamete Ulcers
in an infected person.
In the Ayurvedic medical tradition, neem is considered a
Neem leaf extract greatly increases the state of oxidation in red useful therapy for ulcers and gastric discomfort. Compounds
blood cells, which prevents normal development of the malaria in neem have been proven to have antiulcerative e ects.
virus. Irodin A, an active ingredient in the leaves, is toxic to Throughout India, people take neem leaves for all sorts of
resistant strains of malaria; 100 percent of the malaria gamete stomach problems.
are dead within seventy-two hours with a 1 to 20,000 ratio of
active ingredients. Other experiments have used alcoholic Some scienti c evidence exists for its e ectiveness for these
extracts of neem leaf, which performed almost as well. problems. Peptic ulcers and duodenal ulcers are treated
well with neem leaf extracts; nimbidin from seed extracts
Gedunin and quercetin, compounds found in the leaves, are taken orally prevents duodenal lesions and peptic ulcers, and
also e ective against malaria. Several studies show that neem provides signi cant reductions in acid output and gastric
extracts are e ective even against the more virulent strains of
the malaria parasite. Some scientists believe that stimulation uid activity. Low doses of 20 to 40 mg/kg bring the most
of the immune system is a major factor in neem’s e ectiveness relief; increased dosages reduce the e ectiveness of neem’s
against malaria. The plant also lowers the fever and increases antiulcerative e ects.
one’s appetite, enabling a stronger body to ght the parasite
and recover more quickly. Neem is also useful in treating other problems in the stomach
and bowels. The herb promotes a healthy digestive system by
Even though neem may be e ective against the parasites that carry malaria, protecting the stomach, aiding in elimination, and removing
it has not been shown to prevent the malaria infection once it’s in the body. toxins and noxious bacteria. Its leaves are often used to treat
heartburn and indigestion. Some neem extracts reduce the
concentration of hydrochloric acid in the stomach.

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Neem extracts are also used to treat gastritis. The extracts According to a report from the National Research Council’s
reduce the amount of acid in the stomach; their antibacterial Ad Hoc Panel of the Board on Science and Technology for
and anti-in ammatory properties can relieve the e ects of this International Development, neem preparation from the
condition. leaves or oils can be used as general antiseptics. Because
neem contains antibacterial properties, it is highly e ective
Finally, neem has also been shown to be e ective for treating in treating epidermal conditions such as acne, psoriasis and
digestive disorders such as diarrhea, dysentery, hyperacidity eczema. It is also used for treating septic sores, infected burns,
and constipation. For diarrhea and dysentery one solution is to scrofula, indolent ulcers and ringworm. Stubborn warts can be
take one tablespoon of neem leaf juice with sugar three times cleared up when a high-quality neem product is used. Unlike
a day. For constipation, a neem powder of two or three grams, synthetic chemicals that often produce side e ects such as
with three to four black peppers given three times a day is both rashes, allergic reactions, or redness, neem doesn’t seem to
a laxative and a demulcent. create any of these results.

Vitiligo Early Ayurvedic practitioners believed high sugar levels in the
body caused skin disease. Neem’s bitter quality was considered
Vitiligo is believed to be an autoimmune disorder that causes to counteract the sweetness. Indians historically bathed in
patches of skin to lose their color. It occurs in about ve neem leaves steeped in hot water. This is still considered a
percent of the human population regardless of race, but most common procedure for curing skin ailments or allergic reactions.
commonly in dark-skinned people. The two most common
treatments are exposure to sunlight (or PUVA) or corticosteroid Psoriasis is successfully treated with neem oil. The oil
old drugs, but these are not always e ective. moisturizes and protects the skin while healing the lesions,
scaling and irritations. Experiments have shown that patients
Oral doses of neem were tested at least one year on fteen with psoriasis, who have taken neem leaf orally, combined
patients who had the disease. They also applied a cream made with tropical treatment with neem extracts and neem seed
up of several herbs to patched, which were then exposed to oil, achieve results at least as positive as those who use coal
the sun. After ninety days, 25 percent of the patients showed tar and cortisone, the more traditional treatments. Coal tar
complete relief. No adverse reactions were shown by any products are messy and smelly and cortisone can thin the skin
participants. Those who stayed on the treatment the longest when used repeatedly. Neem has neither side e ect. It can
showed the most improvement. The dosage was four grams of be used for extended periods of time without any side e ects,
neem leaves three times a day, ideally taken before each meal. is easy to apply and is relatively inexpensive.

Other studies showed that the internal use of neem leaves and Viral Diseases
bark were e ective even without the cream. It may be possible
that neem oil applied to the a ected areas could aid in the In India, neem is also used to treat viral diseases such as
reversal of discoloration. small-pox, chicken-pox even many medical practitioners use
a paste of neem leaves, rubbed directly on the infected skin,
Neem has been highly successfully against harmful fungi, for these conditions. Experiments with smallpox, chicken
parasites, and viruses. Although it can destroy these, it does pox and fowl-pox have shown that neem is quite e ective
not kill o bene cial intestinal ora nor produce adverse side for preventing if not for curing these conditions. The neem
e ects. Neem is toxic to several fungi that attack humans, extracts absorb the viruses, preventing them from spreading
including the causes of athlete’s foot and ringworm and to una ected cells. Neem has also been shown to be
Candida, which cause yeast infections and thrush. In fact, e ective against herpes virus and the viral DNA polymers of
neem extracts are some of the most powerful Antifungal plant the hepatitis B virus.
extracts found in the Indian pharmacopeia that are used for
these conditions. The compounds gedunin and nimbidol, Laboratory experiments have shown that neem has
found in the tree’s leaves, control the fungi listed above. antibacterial characteristics as well. For example the bacterium
Basing their studies on the ancient tradition of using neem to Staphylococcus aureus, a feared cause of food poisonings as
purify the air surrounding sick people, two Indian researchers well as of furuncles and abscesses, reacted to neem treatment.
found that neem smoke was successful in suppressing fungal Also, German experiments proved that a neem seed extract with
growth and germination. ethanol is e ective against the herpes viruses.

One of neem’s stronger advantages is its e ect upon the skin Other Health Bene ts
in general. It has been most helpful in treating a variety of skin
problems and diseases including psoriasis, eczema and other Neem truly seems like miraculous natural drug. Neem has been
persistent conditions. shown to provide an antiviral treatment option for small-

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Flavours & Fragrances

pox, chicken-pox, and warts. It is particularly useful for these Chagas disease is a major health problem that infects some
conditions when applied directly to the skin. This is due in part sixteen to eighteen million people, with another ninety million
to its ability to inhibit viruses from multiplying and spreading. at risk in parts of South and Central America. It may be deadly.
There is no vaccine and no safe and e ective drug for its cure.
Chronic fatigue is considered to be caused by both viral and The disease is caused by a parasite. Trypanosoma cruzi, which is
fungal infections. Neem, which can attack both, helps the body spread by an insect, named the kissing bug.

ght this debilitating syndrome. Lab tests in Germany and Brazil have indicated that neem may
be a solution. Neem leaf extracts have negative e ects on these
Minor cuts, sprains and bruises are treated with neem lotion, pernicious insects. Feeding neem or more speci cally a single
cream or leaf extract applied locally. Its anti-in ammatory and dose of Azadirachtin to the bugs not only eliminates the parasites,
antibacterial attributes are soothing to these conditions. but the Azadirachtin prevents the young from molting and the
adults from reproducing. Neem leaf or seed extracts may also be
Hepatitis is another disease helped by neem. This often-deadly sprayed throughout the home where the kissing bug lives; this
disease can be transmitted through blood or by ingesting eliminates the parasites and prevents the bugs from laying eggs.
contaminated food or water. Recent studies indicate that neem
extracts can block infection by the virus that causes the disease. At the moment, scientists are researching the antibacterial
and virus-reducing characteristics of the tree. The rst
Tests in Germany have shown that neem extracts are toxic to the studies con rm its e ectiveness against selected fungi that
herpes virus and can easily heal cold sores. Both a mild neem leaf occur, for example, on hair (trichophyton), skin and nails
tea and a tropical cream application are recommended. Once the (epidermophyton), or in the vagina (candida).
eruption has peaked, discontinue the tea (taken after breakfast and
after dinner) and continue to apply cream until the sore has healed.

Bell flavors and fragrances eyeing
expansion into middle east and
African markets

As per the market buzz, Bell Flavors and Fragrances, a Bell EMEA has been active in the Middle East and gained a fair
major player in Europe’s market and beyond, is poised measure of the market trends by understanding and taking in
to invest big money in its 25th anniversary this year. The the local tastes and preferences at the very beginning there
company sees Europe as its home market for25 years and so it is and then molding product ranges to suit them, said one market
set to spend in the EMEA segment this year to build on that. watcher. This could be crucial, especially where fragrances are
Some company sources spoke to the media con rming this concerned where tastes and choices cannot be easily altered no
recently on condition of anonymity saying that Bell EMEA had matter how good any product might prove to be elsewhere.
expanded its activities from Germany to Europe and beyond
with great success. The markets of the Middle East and Africa are The source referred to a recent interview by Bell’s President
now rmly on the company’s radar as these places have shown Raymond Heinz himself. Heinz was quoted as having said, “The
strong consumer spending sentiments of late. new logistics centre in the location in Germany is the largest
single investment in the company’s history. Modern warehouse
Disposable income is growing steadily in sync with growing management systems and technology enable e cient logistics
appetites for avours and fragrances in the Middle East as also in and are therefore an important element for a smooth and
Africa which makes it only logical for companies like Bell to want successful cooperation with our business partners-customers
to cash in, they reasoned. and suppliers alike.

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