LESS READING, MORE LOOKING
ISSUE
№4
2020
Featured Photographers & Artists
ANNA FABIAN · LETICIA FLORES · DAWN ELIZABETH JOHNSEN · HORIA MANOLACHE · FRIDA RIVAS · GERARD SANTIAGO
The unexpected studio and industrial loft
in the heart of Cologne - Ehrenfeld
altemolkerei.tv
BOLD EDITION
CONFIDENT · COURAGEOUS · STRONG · VIVID · BRAVE · DARING
The Lookbook Magazine
EDITORIAL
Editor’s Letter
I thrive to continue and resume what I started. I lost
focus, battled priorities, and this year, started as an
unexpectedly unfortunate one that keeps the rest of the
year with uncertainty, not just to me but to everyone
around the globe. I keep my sanity in check and
deliver my creativity into motion. My burning desire
ignites, and the holistic idea for this edition began.
The Lookbook Magazine launches audacity, strength,
and empowerment. It is what the world needs right
now. People are isolated for a long time that everything
changes in the blink of an eye. It is scary - sudden
changes, but we cannot lose and learn to adapt to the
new norms. Persevere and to fight our struggles to
survive. Conquer our worries and hope that everything
will be back like it was. We are tenacious beings!
In this edition, we will cover controversial subjects
connected to mental health and sociopolitical
issues that the world currently facing but trying
to ignore. We will view fashion from an unusual
perspective. Lastly, to celebrate femininity,
being true to ourselves, and find inspiration.
If you noticed, this issue had a total makeover. A
new layout and design is implemented and will be
followed as it is from now on. Definitely, a big move
for us. With this, I am hoping that I can continue
this publication and community more consistently,
and hopefully build more audiences and supporters.
I hope that this comeback will prove our powerful
intentions. To elevates art, our expressions - voices,
and photography as part of the remedy of this obscure
situation.
Now, it is my pleasure to present the new, the better...
...The Lookbook Magazine, The BOLD Edition.
Gerard Santiago, Editor-in-Chief
The Bold Edition
CONTENTS 08
Welcome to a subconscious realm that explicates
Resilient One human negative emotions. These abstract photos
exposed our inner dark side and let us navigate in
25 Goykhman Gold Man this uninvited domain.
With those piercing eyes, he never loses focus.
With that careful smile, he does not hesitate.
Primal, elegant, and eager. He is born to
something special, something golden.
30 What If
A recreation of historical figures paintings into
photographs with a slight change on the subjects.
This series is a sociopolitical take that we are
currently facing but ignored by many. A never-
ending conflict that needed to be addressed and
resolved with open mind and hearts.
46 Personalities of Colors
A colorful representation and understanding
of the psychology of hue using fashion
portraiture.
70 One in a Billion
A striking fashion photoshoot with a playful
and colorful take. Just to say, Pink is a
common denominator of this photoset.
78 The Women of Today
We celebrate femininity and highlight
what women deserve like any other. These
individuals are just a few who represent the
amazing talents and the whole of humanity.
The Lookbook Magazine
05
Contents
Resentment
The feeling of displeasure or indignation
at some act, remark, person, etc., regarded
as causing injury or insult.
saisonkalender.de
08
Resilient One
A photo series of Leticia Flores
ResilOiennet
The Lookbook Magazine
Betrayed
The breaking or violation of a presumptive contract, trust,
or confidence that produces moral and psychological
conflict within a relationship amongst individuals, between
organizations or between individuals, and organizations.
A strong depiction of human negative emotions profoundly captured its appearance.
These abstract photographs reveal our inner feelings as vulnerable beings. These
imageries were influenced by Aaron Siskind and Jackson Pollocks - abstract
expressionism. Flores invites us in a visual window. She created a corrupted
world, designed from mundane materials using physical and chemical reactions.
These stochastic structural facades insinuate with dramatic lighting open its doors
in a new psychological dimension. We have given a chance for a little peek inside
her unveiled mind.
The Bold Edition
10
Resilient One
Anxious
A feeling or showing worry, nervousness,
or unease about something with an
uncertain outcome.
The Lookbook Magazine
11
Leticia Flores
Frustration
The feeling of being upset or annoyed
as a result of being unable to change or
achieve something.
The Bold Edition
12
Resilient One
Aggravated
Being angry or displeased especially
because of small problems or annoyances.
The Lookbook Magazine
13
Leticia Flores
Tremor
A trembling or shaking usually from
physical weakness, emotional stress, or
disease.
The Bold Edition
14
Resilient One
The Lookbook Magazine
15
Leticia Flores
Fear
It is an unpleasant emotion caused by the
threat of danger, pain, or harm.
The Bold Edition
16
Resilient One
Envy
A feeling of discontented or resentful
longing aroused by someone else’s
possessions, qualities, or luck.
The Lookbook Magazine
17
Leticia Flores
Disgust
A feeling of revulsion or strong
disapproval aroused by something
unpleasant or offensive.
The Bold Edition
18
Resilient One
Naive
Having or showing a lack of experience,
or understanding sophistication, often in
a context where one neglects pragmatism
in favor of moral idealism.
The Lookbook Magazine
19
Leticia Flores
Lacerate
To tear roughly; mangle in rending or
violently tearing apart or to cause deep
emotional pain to; distress.
The Bold Edition
20
Resilient One
Fragile
Being not strong or sturdy; delicate and
vulnerable.
The Lookbook Magazine
21
Leticia Flores
Catastrophe
An event causing great and usually
sudden damage or suffering.
The Bold Edition
22
Resilient One
The Lookbook Magazine
Turmoil
a state of great commotion, confusion, disturbance, tumult,
agitation, disquiet, or experiencing difficult decision.
Leticia Flores
Puebla, Mexico
Leticia Flores was born in Puebla, Mexico. A
colonial city; where art, culture, and history
captured her attention early and where her journey
as an artist began. She was born and raised in a
conservative family, where art and creativity were
a key part of her upbringing. As a child, she used
to watch her father create sketches and architectural
designs. Her mother would create crafts, exposing
her to constant forms of creation and inspiration.
As a child, sketching and painting were a big part
of her life. Later, she would enroll in college to get
involved in multimedia design, where she initially
crossed paths with photography and other visual
arts. Her first DSLR was a gift from her parents.
This is where she got seriously involved with
photography. That is when she began to understand
that photography would play a far larger role in
her life; the missing piece she had been looking for.
Photography became the medium that she needed
to understand and find her way of communicating
what she thinks and feels to the world. Over time, she
has perfected her technique and vision through the
lens. She found in the work of Aaron Siskind a new
perspective and inspiration, from where she learned
how to really observe and appreciate the mundane
and ordinary, transforming it into something
extraordinary. Jackson Pollock, a significant Abstract
Expressionist painter, also inspired her to find subtle
ways to communicate in an unorthodox manner,
where technique and creativity are key in visual
outcomes.
[email protected]
@letuzaflo
The Bold Edition
three-sixty.global
PLEASE DRINK RESPONSIBLY
25
Frida Rivas
Frida Rivas
presents
GoyGkhomlMdaann
The Bold Edition
26
Goykhman
Gold Man
The Lookbook Magazine
“ California state is famous for its warm Frida Rivas
Guadalajara, Mexico
sunsets. I really loved watching the sun
Born from a lawyer mother and an architect father,
goes down from the living room window in Frida was raised in Mexico. Family activities,
personal interests, and youth extracurricular classes
the apartment where I shared back then were always art-related. This led the artistto havean
overwhelming desire to communicate and express
with Julie and Fred in the San Francisco herself visually, deciding to pursue a Bachelor’s
Degree in Graphic Design at the Autonomous
Bay Area. It had an amazing view of University of Guadalajara, Mexico. One of her
Graphic Design courses required her to have
the sea-line. The sun will hit all the way Photography as a subject.
Seeing the photographs come alive in the darkroom
into the living room during the golden and having the possibility of editing them while
printing, made her turn her attention to Photography.
hour. I remember watching the way the After working for three years as a graphic designer,
she decided to pursue the MFA in Photography
sunlight cast on Fred’s skin while he spent as a means to develop her career as a professional
photographer. That was only the beginning of a
the afternoon in the living room couch, it photography career. She now specializes in Business,
Landscape and Architecture Photography.
made him look so warm and glowy, this
https://www.fridarivas.com/
made me imagine him bathed in gold “ [email protected]
@fridarivasm.portraits
every afternoon. @fridarivas.foto
The Bold Edition
What If?
A Masterpiece from Horia Manolache
A poignant series of prominent individuals of history transmuted into our modern social confrontation.
From the elite family and political figures of the past to the distant descendants who seek their valued roots
of our contemporary generation fused into a solemn revolution of reality. Manolache’s visual propaganda
of equality and juxtaposition ravel prejudices and judgment as we answer his question: “What if...”.
The Lookbook Magazine
31
Horia Manolache
Reconstruction of Napoleon Bonaparte’s portrait
Originally painted by Robert Lefèvre
The Bold Edition
The Lookbook Magazine Reconstruction of Maria II of Portugal’s portrait
Originally painted by Thomas Lawrence
33
Horia Manolache
Repainting History
written by Alina Kartman
“The shelter one finds from history actually originates from that very history. It is not
an escape out of one’s own time, but a deeper immersion in it.”
On the 16th of May 1866, 27 years old towards a new home. Once he reached Romania, a huge crowd
Prince Karl of Hohenzollern-Sigmaringen welcomed him and this warm reception came to define his rule
was traveling second class, on the Odessa over the nation. Romanians have never regretted his clandestine
train via Salzburg, under a false identity. journey, that would culminate with his proclaiming Romania
His Swiss passport indicated he was Karl an independent and sovereign nation in 1877. Carol I endeared
Hettingen, a young man on a business himself to the people by proving his nobility did not stem from his
trip, yet only he and his covert aids knew royal title, but from his very own character.
he was in fact on his way to becoming the Being known and loved for who they are is a privilege that is mostly
Ruling Prince of the Romanian United inaccessible to refugees. The refugee identity overwrites and levels
Principalities. On that hard and cold train people coming from radically different backgrounds, with unique
bench, he was temporarily stripped of life histories, with precious dreams and aspirations, with valuable
his royal identity, undertaking the risk of talents and, most importantly with personal meaning. Something
traveling like a commoner because the irreplaceable is lost when all these nuances fade in one bland
political conflict between Prussian and identity, multiplied by millions.
the Austrian Empire was a threat to his Romanian photographer Horia Manolache fights to reclaim
life. He was a temporary refugee, traveling those core colours hidden under the reductionist term ”refugee”
and to use them to hopefully repaint the future of the displaced
individuals around the globe. His ambition is to cross the spacial
and the time borders, all at once. So he photographs people who
have uprooted themselves from their homes because of war,
poverty or lack of prospects and reached countries very different
than their own, under a refugee identity. He then completes their
physical travel with an opportunity to travel through time, under a
royal identity. Classical portraits of European political leaders are
inhabited by immigrants taking on royal garments and poses to
challenge the viewer to a mental drill: would anything be wrong
with the pictures? Would we experience a sense of unease at the
sight of an African curly haired Napoleon Bonaparte? Or were we
to cringe faced with a vision a dark-skinned Drottning Kristina of
Sweden? Perhaps a Roma Marie of Romania would scandalize us?
The Bold Edition
34 great-grandchild. The Kingdom Choir,
the gospel group that sang at Prince
What If ? Harry and Meghan’s wedding, have
written a lullaby for the new baby. ”May
Never a clean canvas your dreams be as high as the open sky”
Eastern Europeans have quite un-European looking ancestors. The it said and the conductor explained ”it is
oldest remains of a modern European, that were discovered in 2002, a blessing to sing of the royal baby”.
in the ”Peștera cu Oase” site, in Romania1, paint the portrait of a Two months prior, another birth would
dark-skinned Romanian, with a wide nose and fleshy lower lip, but capture international attention, although
most strikingly, with Mongolian eyes. The stereotype of the ivory- the reasons had been far from thrilling
skinned, fair-haired, brown-eyed inhabitant is rather new for the the world. In Al-Hawl refugee camp,
Western European too. Britain’s oldest complete human skeleton, in Northern Syria, Shamima Begum, a
for example, the famed Cheddar Man2, had the genetic markers British-born woman who left the United
of a person living in the Near East or the Pontic steppe. He most Kingdom in 2015 to join the Islamic
probably had dark, curly/wavy hair, blue eyes and dark to very dark State jihadists in the Middle East, had
skin, a portrait researchers think is the result of immigration. given birth to a child.
Archaeologists may differ in their interpretations of the findings, but After the fall of the last ISIS stronghold,
the issue at stake remains: is our assumption of biological perpetuity under the military pressure of the
enough to secure our ideals of ethnic continuity upon a certain international coalition against terrorism,
region? What if our biological perpetuity is not exactly accurate? thousands of women and children were
Would it hurt our national identity? Would it damage our appraisal displaced and reaching out to refugee
of the sinuous, often times sacrificial ways in which our ancestors laid
the foundations of our current civilization? Would our ancestors’ Originally painted by
skin color alter our need to connect with them? Would we still look Franz Xaver Winterhalter
at our immigrant forefathers like we were to stare threat directly in
the eye? Then why are so afraid of immigrants today?
Through his visuals, Horia Manolache challenges our perceptions
by confronting our negative prejudices with their positive twin.
Why not imagine the least cherished members of a certain society
– its non-citizens – like they were its most prized nobility? Horia’s
project invites us to honestly consider how would history differ if
both royals and refugees were to be stripped of their privilege and
stigma, down to their human core, and then made to exchange
places. And from an image to another, a clearer answer starts to
emerge. It speaks of empathy, of authentic knowledge, of humbleness
and of othercenteredness. It alludes to reclaiming the educational
value of history and allowing it to teach us how to treat vulnerable
populations with dignity.
Drawing the parallels
The birds where singing high at the beginning of May 2019, in the
stables yard of Windsor castle where an overjoyed Prince Harry
announces to the press that his wife, Meghan Markle, the Dutches of
Sussex, has given birth to a ”very healthy boy”. ”Mother and baby are
doing incredibly well”, Prince Harry said while acknowledging that
being present to the birth had been ”the most amazing experience
he could ever have possibly imagined”. His son is the Queen’s eighth
The Lookbook Magazine
35
Horia Manolache
Reconstruction of Leopold Duke of Brabant’s portrait
The Bold Edition
36 to missionaries in hope they would understand the devastation
brought by the rule of King Leopold II. Leopold was King of the
What If ? Belgians for 44 years, the longest reign in the history of the Belgian
monarchy. He founded and owned the Congo Free State, a private
camps in Syria. Shamima was one of them: a administrative concession that the colonial European nations
leftover ISIS bride; the wife of a Danish recruit offered the monarch, under the condition that he would improve
who impregnated her three times, while she was the lives of the natives. Not only did King Leopold not improve
still an underage; mother of a single living child. their lives, he became the architect of an economically motivated
She pleaded for a different destiny: ”If not for genocide. It is estimated that around 10 million Congolese lost
my own sake, then for the sake of my child”, she their lives in the brutal hands of administrative agents in charge of
pleaded, ”allow me to return”. rubber exploitation to the benefit of Leopold.
No ray of hope was to come from the British side. It is precisely why Horia Manolache chose to re-enact Leopold
The authorities canceled her British citizenship childhood portrait with the help of Amro, a child whose family
leaving her internationally stranded, on account sought refuge in Romania. Amro’s skin colour would be the
of the danger she posed to the country should she most powerful reminder that despicable greed and profoundly
return. But then they referred her to Bangladesh, disordered view of human value reverberate in history even after
the native country of her parents, as if a the perpetrator is long gone. The now Democratic Republic of
developing country would be better equipped to Congo is ”one of the most complex and challenging humanitarian
customize a deradicalization strategy for her. In situations worldwide”, as the UN Refugee Agency states3. The
fact, the world was presented with a distasteful unrest in the African country has displaced an estimated 4.5
double-standard: human rights are of utmost million people, 826.000 of which are being hosted in other African
importance, only if they are the rights of utmost countries. More than 4 million lives, that statistics would facelessly
important humans. Shortly after her initial press record. Is it fair that history only preserved the image of the
interview, Shamima’s ”unimportant” baby died, Leopold and not of his million victims? Is it equitable to know so
innocent of his parent’s wrongdoings. Their much about the perpetrator, yet so little about his victims?
short life together would speak of an intricate King Leopold was not unique in his ill demeanor. Some of
blend of naivete and guilt too complex for the our highest ranking historical figures would act out despicable
often oversimplified public narrative on refugees. character traits and still manage to secure a place in history. At the
While numerous European politicians were same time though, some of the most enriching modern thinkers
exploiting the voters’ fear of unknown to fuel such as Albert Einstein, Henry Kissinger, Hannah Arendt, share in
their campaigns, the real coordinates of the common a lesser known fact that they were once refugees.
European immigrant crisis were becoming less Assuming they were only laudable exceptions to the refugee
and less visible to the public, hidden under community and continuing to favour the negative prejudices
a heavy shadow of emotionalism. Extremist describing asylum seekers inevitably leads to an insidious
European parties thrived on discourses opposing calculation: should a person act/be a certain way in order to be
immigration by feeding into voters’ fear of worthy of receiving help exactly when they need it most? How
the unknown. But what if the rightfully feared would they need to look, what should their attire be? Should their
unknown was not the new-comer, but our very skin glow a certain tone? Should they all be bright? Cultured?
own old history that would argue we are far from Skilled? Ambitious? Should they show no sign of mental distress
being victims of a global crisis; that we were its despite their critical situation? What makes one qualify to receiving
moral architects? support? As cynical as these questions may sound, they are simply
History is written by victors an expression of the utilitarian principle overarching Europeans’
In a heart-wrenching black and white reluctance towards refugees at the peak of what came to be known
photograph taken at Baringa, Congo state in as a crisis.
1904, a dazed father stares at the hand and
foot of his five-year-old daughter. They were
severed as a punishment for having harvested
too little rubber. The man had brought them
The Lookbook Magazine
Caleidoscopic worries 37
With politicians inflating their
popularity by playing the worried Horia Manolache
benefactors of economically
dysfunctional societies that would A May 2019 survey led by the Migration Policy Center (MPC) among 17 European and
only disintegrate further should Mediterranean countries found Greece and Hungary to be the least likely to display a positive
they to welcome vulnerable people attitude towards immigrants, while a majority of citizens in a majority of countries surveyed
from conflict ridden countries, were less inclined to a negative view of immigrants.5 One may find it hard to reconcile such
voters were directed to ruminate on data with the one provided by the EC survey. This only shows that the general picture is
the archetype of the evil-refugee. As more complex than we would easily imagine.
such, immigration easily became the The MPC survey examined three types of perspectives: attitudes towards immigrants,
top concern of voters in 22 of the 27 perceptions of the effects of immigration and attitudes towards immigration.
EU countries and it kept its position
for four years in a row, starting 2015.
An EU-wide survey led for the
European Commission revealed
that terrorism had replaced the
”economic situation” as the
dominating fear in Ireland, Spain,
Romania, Croatia and Lithuania.4
Reconstruction of Kristina of
Sweden’s portrait
Originally painted by
Sébastien Bourdon
The Bold Edition
38 effect on government budgets, but
others were thoroughly disagreeing
What If ? with this view.
Thekeytothisapparentlyantagonistic
What the dataset revealed was that Europeans differentiate between immigrants and view was eloquently described by
tend to be more welcoming of EU immigrants, although negativity towards non-EU the authors of the MPC study:
immigrants did generally decrease. (Hungary was still an exception here and so was ”individuals are most concerned
Sweden.) about the effect of immigration on
Europeans incline to differentiate the areas in which immigrants may affect public life. their safety and on the sustainability
As an example, most Europeans think immigrants may have a positive effect on the of rapid demographic transformation
culture of the receiving country, while at the same time thinking that immigration has on government budgets and, on the
had a negative effect on crime. Many Europeans said immigration is having a negative other, we know that Europeans most
concerned by immigration are those
who value security most highly in
their day-to-day lives”.
An interesting factor discovered by
the MCP survey was that, despite
the religion- or ethnicity-centered
hate that has circled the internet
Reconstruction of John III
Sobieski’s portrait
Originally painted by Jan Tricius
The Lookbook Magazine
39
Horia Manolache
numerous times since the 2015 crisis started, what matters most to Europeans is, in their
words, the immigrant’s commitment to the local way of life. Less than 25 percent said a
Christian background was important and “being white” had the least support. Whereas
the immigrants’ willingness to immerse in the host-culture and adopt its rules ranked on
top of their priorities.
Among the countries surveyed on the topic by Pew Global, an average 49% say immigrants
want to be distinct from the host country’s society, while a median of 45% say immigrants
want to adopt the host country’s customs and way of life.6
Reconstruction of
Queen Victoria’s portrait
Originally painted by
Franz Xaver Winterhalter
The Bold Edition
40 Reconstruction of Rudolf II’s portrait
Originally painted by Joseph Heintz the Elder
What If ?
It is right at the heart of these divisive perceptions that Horia Manolache nestles his
photographic project. And looking at the matter through his lenses, somehow the
tragedy of the 68 million people that were forced to leave their homes worldwide since
the end of 2014 begins to clarify.
What can he achieve through just 10 photographs? Well, that may be feeling the odd
familiarity towards the costume play of Horia’s subjects, the vivid memory of our own
childhood pretend games. Then, seeing a refugee play could possibly allude to the fact
that we could have more in common that one might guess. Or perhaps it has to do with
us recognizing that we still hold that childish belief that we get to decide who we want
to become, no matter how harsh our present identity may be. Or, even better, maybe it
makes us wish us that our childish belief was not that childish after all.
The Lookbook Magazine
Reconstruction of Queen Victoria’s portrait 41
Originally painted by Franz Xaver Winterhalter
Horia Manolache
Project co-financed by
The Administration of the National
Cultural Fund, Romania.
Footnotes: The Bold Edition
1. https://www.nytimes.com/2011/11/03/science/fossil-
teeth-put-humans-in-europe-earlier-than-thought.html
https://www.nature.com/articles/nature14558
2. https://www.nhm.ac.uk/our-science/our-work/origins-
evolution-and-futures/human-adaptation-diet-disease/
cheddar-man-faq.html
3. https://www.unhcr.org/dr-congo-emergency.html
4. http://ec.europa.eu/commfrontoffice/publicopinion/
index.cfm/Survey/getSurveyDetail/instruments/STAN-
DARD/surveyKy/2180
5. https://www.icmpd.org/fileadmin/ICMPD-Website/
Public_attitudes_on_migration_study.pdf
6. https://www.pewglobal.org/2019/03/14/around-
the-world-more-say-immigrants-are-a-strength-than-a-
burden/
Horia Manolache Reconstruction of Archduchess Maria
Bucharest, Romania Antonia of Austria’s portrait.
Manolache’s first experience telling stories with
images goes deep into his past when he discovered
his father’s typewriter. He imagined fulfilling a
newspaper with absurd stories. He understood
that images would bring validity to his stories,
so he started to make drawings. This was when
he was in the second grade. Later, in 5th or 6th
grade, he began to experiment with his parent’s
video recorder and created several stop-motion
animations showing accidents and interactions
between toys. He took to music in his teenage years
as a means to express his creativity and feelings.
He followed that path to university but dropped
it. It somehow deepened his search for something
to make him feel complete. Two years later, he
rediscovered the attraction toward storytelling
through a good friend. He bought himself a
camera and began to photograph things in a way
that reminded him of the stories he used to tell
when he was young. So continued his journey.
Horia spent two years in a technical university
till he finally decided to follow his artist instinct
and to search for a meaning and a way of
self-expressing. Several years later, he got his
Bachelor’s degree in film making, and he went
to San Francisco to achieve his Master’s degree.
In San Francisco, during his studies, he created
several photo series that earned him his first
major photography awards, and thereafter many
exposures to different solo and group shows,
magazines, prints, and online publicities. He is
also one of the Forbes 30’s under 30 in Romania.
https://www.horiamanolache.com/
[email protected]
@fog_butterfly
@Todaynoteveryday
43
Horia Manolache
Originally painted by
Joseph Ducreux
Reconstruction of Peter the Great’s portrait
Originally painted by Paul Delaroche
The Bold Edition
kolorat.de
A Collection from Dawn Elizabeth Johnsen
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Madison Flowers, Natalia Varni, Madison Dupart, Ashley Rabaino, Deidra Pettigrue, Kelly Dodge, Cait Grimm,
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The Bold Edition
48
Personalities of Colors
FORMAL
ELEGANCE
MYSTERY
The Lookbook Magazine