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Published by IKBN Peretak, 2021-03-29 04:42:40

French Patisserie Ferrandi in English

French Patisserie Ferrandi in English

MANGO AND PASSION FRUIT LEVEL
MACARONS
2
Macarons Mangue-Passion

Making the Macaron Shells Assembling the Macarons Makes 12
Active time
Prepare the macaron shells (see technique p. 243), adding Spoon the ganache into the pastry bag, pipe it over the 1 ¾ hours
the orange food coloring at step 3. Once the shells flat side of half the shells and lightly press the others Chilling time
are baked and cooled, use the spray gun to mist the on top so the filling reaches the edges. Chill for at least 3 hours
tops with the green-colored kirsch to create a shadow 2 hours before serving. Cooking time
effect. 10–15 minutes
Storage
Making the Mango-Passion Fruit Ganache Up to 4 days in the refrigerator
Equipment
Melt the chocolate in a bowl over a pan of hot water Spray gun
to 95°F–104°F (35°C–40°C). Heat the cream and the Stick blender
fruit purées to 104°F (40°C) in another saucepan, then Instant-read thermometer
gradually pour over the melted chocolate, stirring until Pastry bag fitted
the chocolate has melted. Whisk in the lemon juice, with a plain ⅓-in. or ½-in.
using the stick blender, and then strain through a fine- (8-mm or 10-mm) tip
mesh strainer to make a smooth ganache. To cool the
filling, line a baking sheet with plastic wrap, spread the
filling over the sheet and press another piece of plastic
wrap over the surface. Chill for at least 1 hour.

Ingredients
24 macaron shells
(see technique p. 243 and method)
¼ tsp (0.8 g) water-soluble
powdered orange food coloring

¼ tsp (0.8 g) water-soluble
powdered green food coloring,
diluted in a little kirsch,
for spraying

MANGO-PASSION FRUIT GANACHE

5 oz. (140 g) white chocolate,
finely chopped

⅓ cup (75 ml) whipping cream,
35% butterfat

5 tsp (1 oz./25 g) mango purée
5 tsp (1 oz./25 g) passion fruit
purée

Scant ½ tsp (2 ml) lemon juice

249

MACARONS RASPBERRY MACARONS

LEVEL Macarons Framboise

1

Makes 12 Making the Macaron Shells Assembling the Macarons

Active time Prepare the macaron shells (see technique p. 243), adding Blend the raspberry filling with the stick blender until
1 ¾ hours the pink food coloring at step 3. smooth. Spoon it into the pastry bag, pipe it over the
flat side of half the shells and lightly press the others
Chilling time Making the Candied Raspberry Filling on top so the filling reaches the edges. Chill for at least
3 hours 2 hours before serving.
Heat the raspberry purée to 113°F (45°C) in a sauce-
Storage pan over low heat. Mix the sugar and pectin together
Up to 4 days in the refrigerator and gradually add to the raspberry purée, whisking
constantly. Bring the mixture to a boil, still whisking all
Equipment the time, and cook for a few minutes until the purée
Instant-read thermometer thickens. Line a baking sheet with plastic wrap, spread
Stick blender the purée over it and press another piece of plastic
Pastry bag fitted wrap over the surface. Chill for at least 1 hour.
with a plain ⅓-in. or ½-in.
(8-mm or 10-mm) tip

Ingredients
24 macaron shells
(see technique p. 243 and method)
Heaping ⅛ tsp (0.6 g)
water-soluble powdered pink
food coloring

CANDIED RASPBERRY FILLING

1 cup (9 oz./250 g)
raspberry purée
½ cup (3.5 oz./100 g)
superfine sugar
1 ¼ tsp (5 g) pectin NH

250

ROSE-LYCHEE MACARONS LEVEL

Macarons Rose-Litchi 2

Making the Macaron shells CHEFS’ NOTES Makes 12

Prepare the macaron shells (see technique p. 243), adding • These macarons are best made a day ahead Active time
the pink food coloring at step 3. and stored at room temperature. 1 ¾ hours

Making the Rose-Lychee Marshmallow Filling • Fill the macarons while the marshmallow filling Chilling time
is still warm so it does not set too quickly. 3 hours
Soak the gelatin in a bowl of cold water. Add the sugar
and about 2 tbsp (1.5 oz./45 g) of the invert sugar to Storage
the water in a medium saucepan and cook over medium Up to 4 days in the refrigerator
heat until the sugar dissolves and the temperature of
the syrup reaches 230°F (110°C). Squeeze out the gel- Equipment
atin and melt it in a bowl over a pan of hot water. Fit Instant-read thermometer
the stand mixer with the whisk and put the remaining Stand mixer
invert sugar (2.25 oz./65 g) in the bowl. Carefully pour Stick blender
in the hot syrup and melted gelatin and whisk until the Pastry bag fitted
mixture is mousse-like. Cool to lukewarm and then fold with a plain ⅓-in. or ½-in.
in the lychee purée and rose water using a spatula. (8-mm or 10-mm) tip

Assembling the Macarons Ingredients
24 macaron shells (see technique
Spoon the filling into the pastry bag, pipe it over the p. 243 and method)
flat side of half the shells and lightly press the others ¼ tsp (0.8 g) water-soluble
on top so the filling reaches the edges. Chill for at powdered pink food coloring
least 2 hours before serving, topping each one with
a rose petal. ROSE-LYCHEE MARSHMALLOW FILLING

6 sheets (0.4 oz./12 g) gelatin
½ cup plus 3 tbsp
(4.5 oz./130 g) superfine sugar
¼ cup plus 2 tsp (3.75 oz./110 g)
invert sugar, divided
3 tbsp plus 1 tsp (50 ml) water
3 ½ tbsp (1.75 oz./55 g) lychee
purée
Scant ½ tsp (2 ml) rose water

12 organic rose petals

251

MACARONS STRAWBERRY MACARONS

LEVEL Macarons Fraise

1

Makes 12 Making the Macaron shells CHEFS’ NOTES

Active time Prepare the macaron shells (see technique p. 243), adding • Add a pinch of black pepper
1 ¾ hours the red food coloring at step 3. to the strawberry ganache for a spicy kick.
• Go for ripe, full-flavored strawberries,
Chilling time Making the Strawberry Ganache using a mix of different varieties if you wish.
3 hours
Heat the cream and strawberry purée in a saucepan
Storage over medium heat until the temperature reaches 95°F
Up to 4 days in the refrigerator (35°C). Meanwhile, melt the white chocolate to 95°F
(35°C) in a bowl over a saucepan of hot water. Slowly
Equipment pour the hot strawberry cream over the melted choc-
Instant-read thermometer olate and stir with a spatula until you have a smooth,
Pastry bag fitted creamy ganache. To cool the ganache, line a baking
with a plain ⅓-in. or ½-in. sheet with plastic wrap, spread the ganache over it, and
(8-mm or 10-mm) tip press another piece of plastic wrap over the surface.
Refrigerate for at least 1 hour.
Ingredients
24 macaron shells Assembling the Macarons
(see technique p. 243 and method)
Heaping ⅛ tsp (0.6 g) Spoon the strawberry filling into the pastry bag, pipe
water-soluble powdered red it over the flat side of half the shells, and lightly press
food coloring the others on top so the filling reaches the edges. Chill
for at least 2 hours before serving.
STRAWBERRY GANACHE

¼ cup plus 2 tsp (70 ml)
whipping cream, 35% butterfat
¼ cup (2.25 oz./65 g)
strawberry purée
4.5 oz. (130 g) white chocolate,
finely chopped

252

RED BELL PEPPER, RASPBERRY, LEVEL
AND CHOCOLATE MACARONS
2
Macarons Poivron, Framboise & Chocolat

Making the macaron shells CHEFS’ NOTES Makes 12

Prepare the macaron shells (see technique p. 243), adding To make your own red bell pepper purée, Active time
the red food coloring at step 3. roast then peel them, and purée the flesh 1 ¾ hours

Making the Velvet Spray in a blender. Chilling time
3 hours
Once the shells are baked and cooled, prepare the cools to 95°F–104°F (35°C–40°C), add the butter and
spray. Place the cocoa butter and white chocolate in blend until smooth. Cover the surface of the crémeux Storage
separate bowls over saucepans of hot water, melt both with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 30–40 minutes, Up to 4 days in the refrigerator
to 95°F (35°C) and then mix together. Gradually stir until the crémeux is cool and thick enough to be piped.
in the red food coloring until you obtain the shade Equipment
you want and then blend with the stick blender until ASSEMBLING Instant-read thermometer
smooth. Stand the bowl back over a pan of hot water Stick blender
and heat to 122°F (50°C). Strain through a fine-mesh Spoon the filling into the pastry bag, pipe it over the Spray gun
strainer and pour into the spray gun. Spray the tops flat side of half the shells, and lightly press the others Pastry bag fitted
of the cooled macaron shells for a velvet-like sheen. on top so the filling reaches the edges. Chill for at least with a plain ⅓-in. or ½-in.
2 hours before serving. (8-mm or 10-mm) tip
Making the Crémeux
Ingredients
Heat the raspberry and red bell pepper purées in a 24 macaron shells
saucepan over low heat to 140°F (60°C). Meanwhile, (see technique p. 243 and method)
melt the bittersweet chocolate in a bowl over a sauce- Heaping ⅛ tsp (0.6 g)
pan of hot water. Mix the sorbitol powder and glucose water-soluble powdered red
syrup together and stir into the purées. Carefully pour food coloring
the purée mixture over the melted chocolate and stir
with a spatula until well blended. Once the mixture

VELVET SPRAY

1.75 oz. (50 g) cocoa butter
1.75 oz. (50 g) white chocolate,
finely chopped

2 ½ tsp (0.3 oz./8 g) fat-soluble
powdered red food coloring

CRÉMEUX

3 tbsp (1.75 oz./50 g)
raspberry purée
4 tsp (0.75 oz./20 g)
red bell pepper purée
(see Chefs’ Notes)

5.5 oz. (160 g) bittersweet
chocolate, 60% cacao, finely
chopped

2 ¼ tsp (0.25 oz./7 g) sorbitol
powder
2 tsp (0.5 oz./16 g) glucose syrup
3 tbsp (1.5 oz./45 g) butter,
diced, at room temperature

253

MACARONS BLACK CURRANT MACARONS

LEVEL Macarons Cassis

1

Makes 12 Making the Macaron Shells Assembling the Macarons

Active time Prepare the macaron shells (see technique p. 243), adding Blend the candied black currant filling with the stick
1 ¾ hours the purple food coloring at step 3. blender until smooth. Spoon it into the pastry bag, pipe
it over the flat side of half the shells, and lightly press
Chilling time Making the Candied Black Currant filling the others on top so the filling reaches the edges. Chill
3 hours for at least 2 hours before serving.
Heat the black currant purée and pear juice in a sauce-
Storage pan over low heat to 113°F (45°C). Mix the sugar and
Up to 4 days in the refrigerator pectin together and gradually whisk into the purée.
Bring the mixture to a boil, whisking all the time, and
Equipment cook for a few minutes until the purée thickens. Line a
Instant-read thermometer baking sheet with plastic wrap, spread the purée over
Stick blender it and press another piece of plastic wrap over the sur-
Pastry bag fitted face. Refrigerate for 1 hour.
with a plain ⅓-in. or ½-in.
(8-mm or 10-mm) tip

Ingredients
24 macaron shells
(see technique p. 243 and method)
Heaping ⅛ tsp (0.6 g)
water-soluble powdered purple
food coloring

CANDIED BLACK CURRANT FILLING

¾ cup (7 oz./200 g)
black currant purée
3 tbsp plus 1 tsp (50 ml)
pear juice
½ cup minus 1 tbsp
(2.75 oz./80 g) superfine sugar
1 ¼ tsp (0.2 oz./5 g)
pectin NH

254

VIOLET MACARONS LEVEL

Macarons à la Violette 2

Making the Macaron Shells Assembling the Macarons Makes 12
Active time
Prepare the macaron shells (see technique p. 243), adding Spoon the violet ganache into the pastry bag, pipe it 1 ¾ hours
the purple food coloring at step 3. over the flat side of the half shells, and lightly press the Chilling time
others on top so the filling reaches the edges. Chill for 3 hours
Making the Violet Ganache at least 2 hours before serving. Storage
Up to 4 days in the refrigerator
Heat the cream in a saucepan to 95°F (35°C) over Equipment
medium heat. Meanwhile, melt the white chocolate in Instant-read thermometer
a bowl over a pan of hot water to 95°F (35°C). Stir Pastry bag fitted
the cream into the melted chocolate using a spatula, with a plain ⅓-in. or ½-in.
add the violet extract, and stir in. Line a baking sheet (8-mm or 10-mm) tip
with plastic wrap, spread the ganache over it, and
press another piece of plastic wrap over the surface.
Refrigerate for 1 hour.

Ingredients
24 macaron shells

(see technique p. 243 and method)
¼ tsp (0.8 g) water-soluble
powdered purple food coloring

VIOLET GANACHE

½ cup minus 2 tsp (115 ml)
whipping cream, 35% butterfat

4 oz. (115 g) white chocolate,
finely chopped

4 drops of natural violet extract

255

MACARONS BLUEBERRY MACARONS

LEVEL Macarons Myrtille

1

Makes 12 Making the Macaron Shells CHEFS’ NOTES

Active time Prepare the macaron shells (see technique p. 243), adding You can replace the candied blueberry filling
2 hours the blue food coloring at step 3. with set blueberry or blackberry jam.

Chilling time Making the Candied Blueberry Filling
3 hours
Heat the blueberry purée to 113°F (45°C) in a saucepan
Storage over low heat. Mix the sugar and pectin together and
Up to 4 days in the refrigerator gradually whisk into the purée. Bring the mixture to a
boil, whisking all the time, and cook for a few minutes
Equipment until the purée thickens. Line a baking sheet with plas-
Instant-read thermometer tic wrap, spread the purée over it, and press another
Stick blender piece of plastic wrap over the surface. Refrigerate for
Pastry bag fitted at least 1 hour.
with a plain ⅓-in. or ½-in.
(8-mm or 10-mm) tip Assembling the Macarons

Ingredients Transfer the blueberry filling to a bowl and blend until
24 macaron shells smooth. Spoon the filling into the pastry bag, pipe it
(see technique p. 243 and method) over the flat side of half the shells, and lightly press the
Heaping ⅛ tsp (0.6 g) water- others on top so the filling reaches the edges. Chill for
soluble powdered blue food at least 2 hours before serving.
coloring

CANDIED BLUEBERRY FILLING

¾ cup (7 oz./200 g)
blueberry purée
4 tsp (0.5 oz./15 g)
superfine sugar
1 tsp (4 g) pectin NH

256

ALMOND AND BLACKBERRY LEVEL
MACARONS
2
Macarons Mûre-Amande

Making the Macaron shells CHEFS’ NOTES Makes 12

Prepare the macaron shells (see technique p. 243), adding • Choose a good-quality almond paste Active time
the blue food coloring at step 3. with a high percentage of almonds as it will contain less 2 hours

Making the Blackberry Almond Filling sugar and have a stronger almond flavor. Chilling time
• Warm the almond paste briefly so it softens 3 hours
Heat the blackberry purée and lemon juice in a sauce- and is easier to mix with the other ingredients.
pan over a low heat to 113°F (45°C). Meanwhile, melt Resting time
the cocoa butter in a bowl over a saucepan of hot water 24 hours
to 113°F–122°F (45°C–50°C). Using the hand beater,
beat the almond paste in a large bowl until smooth Storage
and then gradually whisk in the hot blackberry purée Up to 4 days in the refrigerator
to make a paste. Gradually pour in the melted cocoa
butter, mixing until smooth. Chill for 2–3 hours. Remove Equipment
the filling from the refrigerator and whisk until it is light Instant-read thermometer
and has a pipe-able texture. Electric hand beater
Pastry bag fitted
Assembling the Macarons with a plain ⅓-in. or ½-in.
(8-mm or 10-mm) tip
Spoon the filling into the pastry bag, pipe it over the flat
side of half the shells, and lightly press the others on Ingredients
top so the filling reaches the edges. Allow the macarons 24 macaron shells
to stand at room temperature (60°F–70°F/15°C–20°C) (see technique p. 243 and method)
for 24 hours, so the flavors have time to develop. ¼ tsp (0.8 g) water-soluble
powdered blue food coloring

BLACKBERRY ALMOND FILLING

2 ½ tbsp (1.5 oz./40 g)
blackberry purée
1 tsp (5 ml) lemon juice
1 oz. (25 g) cocoa butter
9 oz. (250 g) almond paste,
55% almonds

257

MACARONS PISTACHIO MACARONS

LEVEL Macarons Pistache

1

Makes 12 Making the Macaron shells CHEFS’ NOTES

Active time Prepare the macaron shells (see technique p. 243), adding As orange blossom water pairs well with pistachio,
1 ¾ hours the green food coloring at step 3. a few drops can be added to the ganache
to enhance the flavor of the macarons.
Chilling time Making the Pistachio Ganache
3 hours
Heat the cream and pistachio paste in a saucepan
Storage over medium heat to 95°F (35°C), stirring frequently.
Up to 4 days in the refrigerator Meanwhile, melt the white chocolate in a bowl over a
pan of hot water to 95°F (35°C). Pour the pistachio
Equipment cream over the melted chocolate and stir it in using
Instant-read thermometer a spatula to make a smooth ganache. Line a baking
Stick blender sheet with plastic wrap, spread the ganache over it, and
Pastry bag fitted press another piece of plastic wrap over the surface.
with a plain ⅓-in. or ½-in. Refrigerate until completely cooled.
(8-mm or 10-mm) tip
Assembling the Macarons
Ingredients
24 macaron shells Transfer the pistachio ganache to a bowl and blend
(see technique p. 243 and method) until smooth. Spoon into the pastry bag, pipe it over the
Heaping ⅛ tsp (0.6 g) flat side of half the shells, and lightly press the others
water-soluble powdered pistachio on top so the filling reaches the edges. Chill for at least
green food coloring 2 hours before serving.

PISTACHIO GANACHE

½ cup minus 2 tsp (115 ml)
whipping cream, 35% butterfat

Heaping 1 tbsp (0.75 oz./20 g)
pistachio paste

4 oz. (115 g) white chocolate,
finely chopped

258

BLACKBERRY AND AVOCADO LEVEL
MACARONS
2
Macarons Avocat-Mûre

Making the Macaron Shells Making the Blackberry Jelly Makes 12

Prepare the macaron shells (see technique p. 243), adding Heat the blackberry purée in a saucepan over low heat Active time
the pistachio food coloring at step 3. to 113°F (45°C). Mix the sugar and pectin together and 2 hours
whisk gradually into the purée. Bring to a boil, whisk-
Making the Emerald Topping ing constantly, and cook for a few minutes until the Chilling time
purée thickens. To cool the jelly, line a baking sheet 4 hours
Put the cocoa butter and white chocolate in separate with plastic wrap, spread the jelly over it and press
bowls, set the bowls over pans of hot water, and melt another piece of plastic wrap over the surface. Chill Storage
both to 95°F (35°C). Mix the two together. Add the for at least 1 hour. Up to 4 days in the refrigerator
food coloring little by little until you get the shade you
require. Beat with the stick blender until smooth. When Assembling the Macarons Equipment
the baked macaron shells have cooled, dip the tops of Instant-read thermometer
half the shells in the emerald topping. Transfer the blackberry jelly to a bowl and beat it with Stick blender
the stick blender until smooth. Spoon it into the pastry Electric hand beater
Making the Avocado Cream bag with the ⅓-in. or ½-in. (8-mm or 10-mm) tip. Spoon Pastry bag fitted
the avocado cream into the pastry bag with the ¼-in. with a plain ⅓-in. or ½-in.
Bring the milk to a boil in a saucepan over medium heat. (6-mm) tip. Pipe a ring of avocado cream around the (8-mm or 10-mm) tip
Add the avocado flesh and lemon juice and mix until edge of the flat side of half the shells, leaving a narrow Pastry bag fitted
evenly blended. In another bowl, whisk the egg yolk border between the ring and the edge. Fill the centers with a ¼-in. (6-mm) tip
and custard powder with the electric beater until pale with blackberry jelly and lightly press the remaining
and thickened. Slowly pour the warm milk and avocado shells on top so the filling reaches the edges. Chill for Ingredients
mixture into the egg yolk, whisking constantly. Return at least 2 hours before serving. 24 macaron shells
to the saucepan and bring to a boil over medium heat, (see technique p. 243 and method)
whisking constantly. When the temperature reaches Heaping ⅛ tsp (0.6 g)
95°F–104°F (35°C–40°C), remove from the heat and water-soluble powdered pistachio
stir in the butter. Blend until smooth. Line a baking green food coloring
sheet with plastic wrap, spread the cream over it, and
press another piece of plastic wrap over the surface.
Chill for at least 1 hour.

EMERALD TOPPING

1.75 oz. (50 g) cocoa butter
1.75 oz. (50 g) white chocolate,
finely chopped

2 ½ tsp (8 g) fat-soluble
powdered green food coloring

AVOCADO CREAM

2 tbsp (30 ml) milk
3.75 oz. (110 g) avocado flesh
1 tsp (5 ml) lemon juice
1 tbsp (0.75 oz./20 g)
egg yolk (about 1 yolk)

1 tsp (3 g) custard powder
5 tbsp (2.75 oz./75 g) butter,
diced

BLACKBERRY JELLY

6 tbsp (3.5 oz./100 g)
blackberry purée

2 tsp (0.3 oz./8 g)
superfine sugar

½ tsp (2 g) pectin NH

259

MACARONS LEMON MACARONS

LEVEL Macarons Citron

1

Makes 12 Making the Macaron Shells CHEFS’ NOTES

Active time Prepare the macaron shells (see technique p. 243), adding
1 ¾ hours the yellow food coloring at step 3.

Infusing time Making the Lemon Cream • Infuse the lemon zest in the cream
20 minutes or longer for at least 20 minutes while the cream cools,
Heat the cream with the lemon zest in a saucepan.
Chilling time Remove from the heat and let infuse. In another sauce- for an enhanced aromatic flavor.
3 hours pan, heat the water and lemon juice and bring just to • Try replacing the lemon with lime,
a boil. Meanwhile, whisk the sugar and eggs in a bowl bergamot orange, or other citrus fruits.
Storage until pale and thick. Slowly pour the hot lemon juice
Up to 4 days in the refrigerator and water over the mixture, whisking constantly, and Assembling the Macarons
then strain in the lemon-infused cream to remove the
Equipment zest, whisking all the time. Soak the gelatin in a bowl of Transfer the lemon cream to a bowl and blend with the
Instant-read thermometer cold water. Pour the cream mixture into a saucepan and stick blender until smooth. Spoon into the pastry bag,
Stick blender heat to 181°F (83°C). Remove from the heat, squeeze pipe it over the flat side of half the shells, and lightly
Pastry bag fitted excess water from the gelatin, and stir in until dissolved. press the other shells on top so the filling reaches the
with a plain ⅓-in. or ½-in. To cool the cream, line a baking sheet with plastic wrap, edges. Chill for at least 2 hours before serving.
(8-mm or 10-mm) tip spread the cream over it, and press another piece of
plastic wrap over the surface. Chill for at least 1 hour
Ingredients before using.
24 macaron shells
(see technique p. 243 and method)
Heaping ⅛ tsp (0.6 g)
water-soluble powdered yellow
food coloring

LEMON CREAM

¼ cup (60 ml) whipping cream,
35% butterfat
Strips of zest from 1 lemon
4 tsp (20 ml) water
5 tsp (25 ml) lemon juice
Scant ¼ cup (1.5 oz./40 g)
superfine sugar
⅓ cup (2.75 oz./75 g) lightly
beaten egg (about 1 ½ eggs)
1 sheet (2 g) gelatin

260

TEA AND HONEY MACARONS LEVEL

Macarons Thé au Miel 2

Making the Macaron Shells CHEFS’ NOTES Makes 12
Active time
Prepare the macaron shells (see technique p. 243), adding 2 hours
the yellow food coloring at step 3. Before baking the
shells, sprinkle them with loose Earl Grey tea.

Making the White Tea Infusion It is best to avoid making the ganache with black tea, Infusing time
as it will impart a smoky flavor—unless that’s what 24 hours
Heat the cream in a saucepan over low heat. Remove you want! Earl Grey tea remains top choice. Chilling time
from the heat and add the white tea. Once the cream 3 hours
has cooled, allow it to infuse in the refrigerator for add the butter, and blend until smooth. Line a baking Resting time
24 hours. The next day, heat the infused cream in a sheet with plastic wrap, spread the ganache over it, and 24 hours
saucepan over medium heat to 122°F (50°C). Strain press another piece of plastic wrap over the surface. Storage
through a fine-mesh strainer and top up with extra Chill for at least 1 hour. Up to 4 days in the refrigerator
cream to ⅔ cup (150 ml), as the tea will have absorbed Equipment
some of the cream. Assembling the Macarons Instant-read thermometer
Stick blender
Making the Tea and Honey Ganache Spoon the ganache into the pastry bag, pipe it over the Pastry bag fitted
flat side of half the shells, and lightly press the remain- with a plain ⅓-in. or ½-in.
Put the cocoa butter and white chocolate in separate ing shells on top so the filling reaches the edges. Chill (8-mm or 10-mm) tip
bowls and set each over a pan of hot water. Melt both for several hours, ideally 24, before serving.
to 95°F (35°C) and then mix them together. In another
saucepan, combine the honey and infused cream and
heat them together, before pouring onto the choco-
late and cocoa butter, mixing with a spatula to make
a glossy ganache. Cool the ganache to 95°F (35°C),

Ingredients
24 macaron shells
(see technique p. 243 and method)
Heaping ⅛ tsp (0.6 g)
water-soluble powdered yellow
food coloring

Loose Earl Grey tea, for sprinkling

WHITE TEA INFUSION

⅔ cup (150 ml) whipping cream,
35% butterfat, plus a little extra

0.35 oz. (10 g) loose white tea

TEA AND HONEY GANACHE

1 oz. (25 g) cocoa butter
8.5 oz. (340 g) white chocolate,
finely chopped

3 ½ tsp (1 oz./25 g) honey
⅔ cup (150 ml) white tea infusion
(see ingredients above)

6 tbsp (3 oz./85 g) butter, diced,
at room temperature

261

MACARONS SALTED CARAMEL MACARONS

LEVEL Macarons Caramel Beurre Salé

1

Makes 12 Making the Macaron Shells CHEFS’ NOTES

Active time Prepare the macaron shells (see technique p. 243), adding • It is best to make these macarons a day ahead
1 ¾ hours the brown food coloring at step 3. and store them at room temperature.

Chilling time Making the Salted Caramel • Boil the syrup a little longer for a richer
3 hours caramel flavor and deeper color, but avoid cooking
Heat the sugar and glucose syrup in a saucepan over
Storage medium heat until the sugar dissolves and the syrup has for too long or the caramel will turn bitter.
Up to 4 days in the refrigerator caramelized. Remove the pan from the heat. In another • The butter must be added at 95°F–104°F
saucepan, bring the cream and evaporated milk to a boil (35°C–40°C) to ensure it remains stable
Equipment and very carefully pour it into the caramelized syrup,
Instant-read thermometer stirring until combined. Weigh the caramel and mix in in the prepared mixture.
Stick blender enough cold water so the total weight is 5 oz. (140 g).
Pastry bag fitted Cool the caramel to 95°F–104°F (35°C–40°C), add
with a plain ⅓-in. or ½-in. the butter and the fleur de sel, and blend with the stick
(8-mm or 10-mm) tip blender until smooth. Line a baking sheet with plastic
wrap, spread the caramel over it, and press another
Ingredients piece of plastic wrap over the surface. Refrigerate for
24 macaron shells at least 1 hour.
(see technique p. 243 and method)
Heaping ⅛ tsp (0.6 g) Assembling the Macarons
water-soluble powdered brown
food coloring Spoon the salted caramel into the pastry bag, pipe it
over the flat side of half the shells, and lightly press the
remaining shells on top so the filling reaches the edges.
Chill for at least 2 hours before serving.

SALTED BUTTER CARAMEL

¼ cup (1.75 oz./50 g)
superfine sugar
5 ½ tsp (1.5 oz./40 g)
glucose syrup
Scant ¼ cup (55 ml) whipping
cream, 35% butterfat
2 tbsp (1 oz./28 g) evaporated milk
5 tbsp (2.75 oz./75 g) butter,
diced, at room temperature
1 pinch (0.02 oz./0.5 g) fleur de sel

262

SALTED CARAMEL, MACADAMIA, LEVEL
AND BANANA MACARONS
2
Macarons Caramel, Noix de Macadamia & Banane

Making the Macaron Shells Roasting the Macadamias Makes 12

Prepare the macaron shells (see technique p. 243), adding Preheat the oven to 325°F (170°C/Gas mark 3). Finely Active time
the brown food coloring at step 3. chop the nuts and spread over a baking sheet lined 1 ¾ hours
with parchment paper. Roast until golden, checking
For the Marbling frequently as they will burn quickly. Let cool. Chilling time
4 hours
Put the white chocolate and milk chocolate in sepa- Making the Banana Crémeux
rate bowls and stand each over a pan of hot water. Storage
Melt the white chocolate to 95°F (35°C) and the milk Soak the gelatin in a bowl of cold water. In a sauce- Up to 4 days in the refrigerator
chocolate to 104°F (40°C). Pour a little milk chocolate pan, bring half the banana purée to a boil, stirring fre-
into the white chocolate and with the tip of a knife quently. In another bowl, whisk the egg yolk, egg, and Equipment
stir just enough to marble the two together. Once the sugar together until pale and thickened. Whisk in the Instant-read thermometer
shells have cooled, dip the top of half of them into the remaining banana purée and a little of the hot purée Stick blender
marbled chocolate, rotating to create a spiral design. to loosen the mixture. Pour into the saucepan with the Pastry bag fitted
hot purée and whisk to blend. Stirring constantly, heat with a plain ¼-in. (6-mm) tip
Making the Salted Caramel the mixture to 180°F (82°C). Squeeze excess water
from the gelatin and stir into the hot crémeux until Ingredients
Heat the sugar and glucose syrup in a saucepan over dissolved. Cool it to 95°F–104°F (35°C–40°C), add the 24 macaron shells
medium heat until the sugar dissolves and the syrup is butter, and blend until smooth. Cover the surface of the (see technique p. 243 and method)
caramelized. Remove the pan from the heat. In another crémeux with plastic wrap and chill for at least 1 hour. ¼ tsp (0.8 g) water-soluble
saucepan, bring the cream and evaporated milk to a powdered brown food coloring
boil and carefully pour into the caramel, stirring until Assembling the Macarons
blended. Weigh the caramel and mix in enough water MARBLING
to make the total weight 5 oz. (140 g). When the cara- Spoon the crémeux into the pastry bag and pipe a ring
mel has cooled to 95°F–104°F (35°C–40°C), add the around the edge of the flat side of half the shells, leav- White chocolate
butter and the fleur de sel. Beat with the stick blender ing a narrow border. Fill the centers of the rings with Milk chocolate
until smooth. Line a baking sheet with plastic wrap, chopped nuts and salted caramel and lightly press the
spread the caramel over it, and press another piece of remaining shells on top so the filling reaches the edges. SALTED CARAMEL
plastic over the surface. Chill for at least 1 hour. Chill for at least 2 hours before serving.
¼ cup (1.75 oz./50 g)
superfine sugar
5 ½ tsp (1.5 oz./40 g)
glucose syrup
Scant ¼ cup (55 ml) whipping
cream, 35% butterfat
2 tbsp (1 oz./28 g) evaporated milk
5 tbsp (2.75 oz./75 g) butter,
diced, at room temperature
0.02 oz. (0.5 g) fleur de sel

ROASTED MACADAMIA NIBS

2 oz. (60 g) macadamia nuts

BANANA CRÉMEUX

1 sheet (2 g) gelatin
6 tbsp (3.5 oz./100 g)
banana purée, divided
Scant 2 tbsp (1 oz./30 g) egg yolk
(about 1 ½ yolks)
Scant ¼ cup (1.75 oz./50 g)
lightly beaten egg (about 1 egg)
2 ½ tbsp (1 oz./30 g) sugar
4 tbsp (2 oz./60 g) butter

263

MACARONS MILK CHOCOLATE MACARONS

LEVEL Macarons Chocolat au Lait

1

Makes 12 Making the Macaron Shells Assembling the Macarons

Active time Prepare the macaron shells (see technique p. 243), adding Spoon the ganache into the pastry bag, pipe it over
1 ¾ hours the brown food coloring at step 3. Before baking, sprin- the flat side of half the shells, and lightly press the
kle the tops with crushed feuilletine flakes. remaining shells on top so the filling reaches the edges.
Chilling time Chill for at least 2 hours before serving.
3 hours Making the Milk Chocolate Ganache

Storage Heat the cream and glucose syrup in a saucepan over
Up to 4 days in the refrigerator medium heat until the temperature reaches 95°F
(35°C). Meanwhile, melt the milk chocolate in a bowl
Equipment over a pan of hot water to 95°F (35°C). Pour the hot
Instant-read thermometer cream over the melted chocolate, stirring with a spatula
Pastry bag fitted to make a smooth ganache. Line a baking sheet with
with a plain ⅓-in. or ½-in. plastic wrap, spread the ganache over it, and press
(8-mm or 10-mm) tip another piece of plastic wrap over the surface. Chill
for at least 1 hour.
Ingredients
24 macaron shells
(see technique p. 243 and method)
Heaping ⅛ tsp (0.6 g)
water-soluble powdered brown
food coloring
Feuilletine flakes
(or use crushed wafers)
for sprinkling

MILK CHOCOLATE GANACHE

6 tbsp (90 ml) whipping cream,
35% butterfat

2 tsp (0.5 oz./15 g) glucose syrup
5 oz. (140 g) milk couverture
chocolate, 35% cacao,
finely chopped

264

CHESTNUT AND MANDARIN LEVEL
MACARONS
2
Macarons Marron-Mandarine

Making the Macaron shells Making the Chocolate Disks Makes 12

Prepare the macaron shells (see technique p. 243), adding Temper the milk chocolate (see techniques pp. 570 and 572). Active time
the brown food coloring at step 3. Lay the stencil on the baking mat. When the tempered 2 hours 20 minutes
chocolate has cooled to 86°F (30°C), pour it over the
Making the Chestnut Cream stencil to fill the circles. Remove excess chocolate with Setting time
a spatula and allow the disks to set for 5 minutes. 5 minutes
Bring the milk to a boil in a saucepan over medium heat
and then stir in the chestnut spread. Whisk the egg yolk Assembling the Macarons Chilling time
and custard powder using the electric beater until pale 3 hours
and thick. Pour the warm milk mixture over the egg Blend the mandarin filling with the stick blender until
yolk mixture, whisking continuously, then return it to smooth and spoon into the pastry bag with the ⅓-in. or Storage
the saucepan and heat to 95°F–104°F (35°C–40°C), ½-in. (8-mm or 10-mm) tip. Spoon the chestnut cream Up to 4 days in the refrigerator
stirring constantly. Remove from the heat and stir in the into the pastry bag with the ¼-in. (6-mm) tip. Pipe a ring
butter until smooth. To cool the cream, line a baking of chestnut cream around the edge of the flat side of Equipment
sheet with plastic wrap, spread it over the sheet, and half the shells, leaving a narrow border. Fill the centers Electric hand beater
press another piece of plastic wrap over the surface. of the rings with the mandarin filling. Lightly press the Instant-read thermometer
Chill for at least 1 hour. remaining shells on top so the filling reaches the edges. Silicone baking mat
Decorate each macaron with a chocolate disk, using a 2 pastry bags fitted
Making the Candied Mandarin Filling little melted chocolate to hold the disk in place. Chill with plain ⅓-in. or ½-in. (8-mm
for at least 2 hours before serving. or 10-mm) and ¼-in. (6-mm) tips
Heat the mandarin purée in a saucepan to 113°F (45°C) Chablon stencil mat
over low heat. Mix the sugar and pectin together and CHEFS’ NOTES with 1 ½-in. (4-cm) diameter
gradually whisk into the purée. Bring to a boil, whisking circles, for the chocolate disks
all the time, and cook for a few minutes, until the purée Instead of making chocolate disks, dip the tops Stick blender
thickens. Line a baking sheet with plastic wrap, spread of the macarons in the tempered milk chocolate.
the filling over it, and press another piece of plastic Ingredients
wrap over the surface. Chill for at least 1 hour. 24 macaron shells
(see technique p. 243 and method)
Heaping ⅛ tsp (0.6 g) water-soluble
powdered brown food coloring

CHESTNUT CREAM

2 tbsp (30 ml) milk
3.75 oz. (110 g) chestnut spread
(crème de marrons)

1 tbsp (0.75 oz./20 g) egg yolk
(about 1 yolk)

1 tsp (3 g) custard powder
5 tbsp (2.75 oz./75 g) butter,
diced, at room temperature

CANDIED MANDARIN FILLING

6 tbsp (3.5 oz./100 g)
mandarin purée
2 tsp (0.3 oz./8 g)
superfine sugar
½ tsp (2 g) pectin NH

CHOCOLATE DISKS

9 oz. (250 g) milk couverture
chocolate, finely chopped

265

MACARONS BITTERSWEET CHOCOLATE
MACARONS
LEVEL
Macarons Chocolat Noir
1

Makes 12 Making the Macaron Shells Assembling the Macarons

Active time Prepare the macaron shells (see technique p. 243), adding Spoon the ganache into the pastry bag, pipe it over
2 hours 10 minutes the brown food coloring at step 3. the flat side of half the shells, and lightly press the
remaining shells on top so the filling reaches the edges.
Setting time Making the Bittersweet Chocolate Ganache Decorate each macaron with a chocolate disk, fixing it
5 minutes in place with a little melted chocolate. Chill for at least
Heat the cream and honey in a saucepan until the tem- 2 hours before serving.
Chilling time perature reaches 95°F (35°C). Meanwhile, melt the
3 hours bittersweet chocolate in a bowl over a pan of hot water
to 95°F (35°C). Pour the cream over the melted choc-
Storage olate and stir gently with a spatula to make a smooth
Up to 4 days in the refrigerator ganache. Line a baking sheet with plastic wrap, spread
the ganache over it, and press another piece of plastic
Equipment wrap over the surface. Chill for 30–40 minutes.
Instand-read thermometer
Chablon stencil mat Making the Chocolate Disks
with 1 ½-in. (4-cm) diameter
circles, for the chocolate disks Temper the bittersweet chocolate (see techniques pp. 570
Silicone baking mat and 572). Lay the stencil on the baking mat. Once the
Pastry bag fitted tempered chocolate cools to 86°F (30°C), pour it
with a plain ⅓-in. or ½-in. over the stencil so it fills the circles. Remove excess
(8-mm or 10-mm) tip chocolate with a spatula and allow the disks to set for
5 minutes.
Ingredients
24 macaron shells
(see technique p. 243 and method)
Heaping ⅛ tsp (0.6 g)
water-soluble powdered brown
food coloring

BITTERSWEET CHOCOLATE GANACHE

½ cup minus 2 tsp (115 ml)
whipping cream, 35% butterfat
1 ¾ tsp (0.5 oz./12 g) honey
4 oz. (115 g) bittersweet
couverture chocolate,
65% cacao, finely chopped

CHOCOLATE DISKS

9 oz. (250 g) bittersweet
couverture chocolate,
65% cacao, finely chopped

266

CHOCOLATE AND PEACH PRALINE LEVEL
MACARONS
2
Macarons Praliné, Pêche & Chocolat

Making the Macaron shells Assembling the Macarons Makes 12

Prepare the macaron shells (see technique p. 243), adding Fill the pastry bag with the chocolate praline ganache Active time
the brown food coloring at step 3. and pipe a ring of ganache around the edge of the flat 1 ¾ hours
side of half the shells, leaving a slight border between
Making the Candied Peach Filling the ring and the edge. Fill the centers of the rings with Chilling time
the candied peach filling. Lightly press the remaining 3 hours
Heat the peach purée in a saucepan over low heat to shells on top so the filling reaches the edges and dust
113°F (45°C). Mix the sugar and pectin together and the tops with cocoa powder, using a sifter. Chill for at Storage
gradually whisk into the purée. Bring to a boil, whisking least 2 hours before serving. Up to 4 days in the refrigerator
constantly, and cook for a few minutes, until the purée
thickens. Line a baking sheet with plastic wrap, spread Equipment
the purée over it, and press another piece of plastic Instant-read thermometer
wrap over the surface. Chill for 1 hour. Stick blender
Pastry bag fitted
Making the Chocolate Praline Ganache with a plain ⅓-in. or ½-in.
(8-mm or 10-mm) tip
Heat the cream and praline paste in a saucepan over
medium heat until the temperature reaches 95°F Ingredients
(35°C), stirring occasionally. Meanwhile, melt the white 24 macaron shells
chocolate in a bowl over a pan of hot water to 95°F (see technique p. 243 and method)
(35°C). Pour the praline cream over the melted choc- ¼ tsp (0.8 g) water-soluble
olate and stir gently with a spatula to make a smooth powdered brown food coloring
ganache. Line a baking sheet with plastic wrap, spread
the ganache over it, and press another piece of plastic
wrap over the surface. Chill for at least 1 hour.

CANDIED PEACH FILLING

¾ cup (7 oz./200 g)
peach purée

4 tsp (0.5 oz./15 g)
superfine sugar

1 tsp (4 g) pectin NH

CHOCOLATE PRALINE GANACHE

½ cup minus 2 tsp (115 ml)
whipping cream, 35% butterfat

1.5 oz. (40 g) praline paste
3.5 oz. (100 g) white chocolate,
finely chopped

Cocoa powder for dusting

267

MACARONS BLACK LICORICE MACARONS

LEVEL Macarons Réglisse

1

Makes 12 Making and Decorating the Macaron shells CHEFS’ NOTES

Active time Prepare the macaron shells (see technique p. 243), adding Licorice powder can be used
1 ¾ hours the black food coloring at step 3. For the decoration, instead of licorice paste, if you prefer.
mix the kirsch with the black food coloring and, when
Chilling time the shells are baked and cooled, use a paintbrush to
3 hours mark a stripe of kirsch over the tops.

Storage Making the Licorice Crémeux
Up to 4 days in the refrigerator
Heat the cream and licorice paste in a saucepan over
Equipment medium heat until the temperature reaches 95°F
Small paintbrush (35°C). Meanwhile, melt the white chocolate in a bowl
Instant-read thermometer over a pan of hot water to 95°F (35°C). Pour the licorice
Pastry bag fitted cream over the melted chocolate and gently stir with
with a plain ⅓-in. or ½-in. a spatula until well blended. Cover the surface of the
(8-mm or 10-mm) tip crémeux with plastic wrap and refrigerate until it is firm
enough to be piped.
Ingredients
24 macaron shells Assembling the Macarons
(see technique p. 243 and method)
Heaping ⅛ tsp (0.6 g) Spoon the crémeux into the pastry bag, pipe it over
water-soluble powdered the flat side of half the shells, and lightly press the
black food coloring remaining shells on top so the filling reaches the edges.
Chill for at least 2 hours before serving.

DECORATION

Scant ½ cup (100 ml) kirsch
Heaping ⅛ tsp (0.6 g)
water-soluble powdered
black food coloring

LICORICE CRÉMEUX

Scant ½ cup (100 ml) whipping
cream, 35% butterfat

0.75 oz. (20 g) black licorice paste
4 oz. (115 g) white chocolate,
finely chopped

268

BLACK TRUFFLE MACARONS LEVEL

Macarons Truffe Noire 2

Making and Spraying the Macaron Shells CHEFS’ NOTES Makes 12

Prepare the macaron shells (see technique p. 243), adding • You can add a little truffle oil to the cream Active time
the black food coloring at step 3. For the spray, dilute for a more intense truffle flavor. 1 ¾ hours
the food coloring in the kirsch and spoon into the spray
gun. Once the shells are baked and cooled, spray the • Try putting the eggs to make the macaron shells Infusing time
tops for a velvet-like sheen. in an airtight container with the truffle a week ahead, 20 minutes–12 hours
(overnight)
Making the Truffle Chantilly Cream so the truffle can impart its flavor to the eggs!
Chilling time
Mince the truffle and add to the cream. Cover, chill, and 2 hours
allow to infuse, preferably overnight, and then strain
through a fine-mesh strainer, reserving the chopped Storage
truffle. Soften the mascarpone by stirring in a little of Up to 4 days in the refrigerator
the infused cream (reserve the rest for another use).
Whisk with the electric beater until soft peaks form. Equipment
Add the truffle and mix gently using a spatula so as not Spray gun
to deflate the mixture. Electric hand beater
Pastry bag fitted
Assembling the Macarons with a plain ⅓-in. or ½-in.
(8-mm or 10-mm) tip
Spoon the truffle cream into the pastry bag, pipe it
over the flat side of half the shells, and lightly press the Ingredients
remaining shells on top so the filling reaches the edges. 24 macaron shells
Chill for at least 2 hours before serving, topping each (see technique p. 243 and method)
macaron with a little edible gold leaf. Heaping ⅛ tsp (0.6 g)
water-soluble powdered black
food coloring

SPRAY

Scant ¼ cup (55 ml) water-soluble
liquid black food coloring
2 tsp (10 ml) kirsch

TRUFFLE CHANTILLY CREAM

0.35 oz. (10 g) fresh black truffle
Scant ½ cup (100 ml) whipping
cream, 35% butterfat
1 oz. (30 g) mascarpone

Edible gold leaf

269



SIMPLE CAKES
& DESSERTS

273 Introduction

276 Everyday Cakes

276 Financiers 294 Pistachio and Raspberry Loaf Cake
278 Pound Cake 296 Chestnut Loaf Cake
280 Fruit Loaf Cake 300 Madeleines
283 Spiced Loaf Cake 302 Genoa Bread
286 Marble Loaf Cake 304 Bordeaux Rum and Vanilla Cakes
288 Lemon Loaf Cake 306 Brownies
290 Chocolate and Nut Loaf Cake 308 Basque Cake
356 Tiramisu
312 Petit Four Cookies 360 Molten Chocolate Cakes
362 Cherry Clafoutis Tart
312 Almond Tuiles 364 Parisian Custard Tart
314 Cigarette Cookies 367 Pavlova
317 Cat’s Tongue Cookies 370 Soufflé
318 Sparkling Shortbread Cookies 372 Breton Custard and Prune Tart
320 Piped Shortbread Cookies 374 Floating Islands
322 Nantes Shortbread Cookies 376 Polish Brioches
324 Buckwheat and Flaxseed Cookies 380 Lemon and Lime Creams
326 Coconut Pyramids
328 Chocolate-Coated Hazelnut Cookies
330 Double Chocolate Chip Cookies
332 Checkerboard Cookies

336 Simple Desserts

336 Crêpes
338 Waffles
340 Fritters
342 French Toast
344 Bittersweet Chocolate Mousse
346 White Chocolate Mousse
348 Cream Caramel
350 Cream Brûlée
352 Rice Pudding
354 Cheesecake

INTRODUCTION

EVERYDAY CAKES,
PETIT FOUR COOKIES,
AND SIMPLE DESSERTS

Providing a tasty quick snack or enjoyed at the end of a family meal, these cakes and desserts are simple
to make but still require as much care and attention to detail to ensure success every time.

cakes on the move EVERYDAY CAKES AND SIMPLE DESSERTS

Elaborate cakes containing EGGS AT ROOM TEMPERATURE
cream are not just difficult It can’t be said often enough: cakes and pastries cannot be made with eggs straight from the refrigerator!
to transport, but they also So, get into the routine of taking your eggs out of the refrigerator at least 2 hours before you need them.
have to be kept chilled, which When making everyday cakes, eggs at room temperature can be beaten in perfectly, without firming up
is why French chefs created the butter or making the batter curdle. For mousses and other simple desserts that contain egg whites,
gâteaux de voyage: literally, the whites will whisk up more easily and the sugar will dissolve better.
cakes for traveling. Most of WELL BEATEN
these plainer cakes can be For light, well-risen cakes, beating the butter and sugar together correctly is essential. This incorporates
kept at room temperature and air bubbles, which are produced as the butter rubs against the sugar crystals, aerating the batter. Beat
carried easily from one place for 3–4 minutes to reach the right consistency, keeping the ingredients in contact with the whisk all the
to another. One of the earliest time and regularly stopping and scraping down the sides of the bowl with a spatula to ensure the batter
was the financier, created in remains smooth.
1890 by the pastry chef Lasne, WHY SIFT?
but there are many others such Sifting dry ingredients together distributes the raising agent evenly throughout the flour so both can be
as madeleines, spiced loaf, incorporated without overworking the dough or batter. This limits the development of the gluten and air
marble cake, and pound cake. bubbles remain in the batter, which is important for ensuring soft cakes.
STRAIGHT INTO THE OVEN
Cake batters that contain baking powder must be baked immediately, as the raising agent begins to act
and produce carbon dioxide as soon as it is added. For maximum rise, bake your cakes as soon as you’ve
made the batter.
AN EVEN BAKE
Carefully buttering the cake pan is important, but it’s even better if done with clarified butter. There is no
danger of this burning and the sides of your cake will color evenly without darkening too much.
A HINT OF HAZELNUT
Some recipes, such as financiers and madeleines, are made with melted butter, but for added flavor, continue
cooking the melted butter until it turns golden brown—beurre noisette (hazelnut butter) in French. Strain
the butter, add it according to your recipe, and it will give the cake a lovely nutty flavor.

273

SIMPLE CAKES & DESSERTS — INTRODUCTION

WHY USE INVERT SUGAR?
Invert sugar keeps cakes moist and extends their storage time. It’s sufficient to simply replace a small
amount of the sugar with invert sugar. Honey and maple syrup also make cakes softer, moister, and less
likely to dry out.
WELL RISEN
For an even rise and a distinctive crack on top, run a well-buttered knife down the center of the cake
10 minutes before the end of the cooking time. Or fill a paper cone with softened butter and pipe it down
the cake before it goes into the oven. However, if the ingredients are weighed accurately (be careful not
to use too much baking powder!), the cake should rise and crack naturally.
SOFT OR CRISP?
To guarantee a super soft cake, cover it in plastic wrap while it is still hot so the steam stays inside—when
you eat the cake it will melt in the mouth. If you prefer a crisp crust, unmold the cake onto a rack and cool
completely before wrapping.
STORAGE
Plain cakes, whether large or small, tend to dry out quite quickly, so prolong their storage time by covering
them tightly in plastic wrap.
WHAT ABOUT FREEZING?
Uncooked cake batter cannot be frozen. Once baked, on the other hand, cakes can be sliced, carefully
wrapped in plastic wrap, and frozen for up to 2 months. Defrost in the refrigerator for 6–8 hours and serve
at room temperature.

PETIT FOUR COOKIES (FOURS SECS) what are petits fours?
In the days of wood-burning
WHY USE BAKING POWDER? ovens, once the bread and
Certain crumbly cookies—such as shortbread and chocolate chip—contain baking powder, not to make them large cakes had been baked
rise but to improve their texture. The dough spreads more as it bakes, helping the sugar to caramelize. in the initial fierce heat,
This results in cookies that are thinner and more golden in color, with a more pronounced caramel flavor. smaller, more delicate items
WHICH SUGAR FOR WHICH TEXTURE? were baked as the oven
The type of sugar used affects the texture of a cookie. White sugar melts when baked, but re-crystallizes cooled down. These were said
quickly, making a cookie crisp. In contrast, brown sugars that contain molasses are moist, so a cookie will to have been cooked à petit
spread more and have a softer, chewier texture. You can try mixing sugars to experiment with different four—in a small oven—which
textures. is the name these little cakes
CORRECTLY STORED and pastries are still known
Moisture is the arch enemy of crisp cookies, as it makes them go soft. To preserve their crispness, store by. The recipes in this chapter
them in an airtight tin, separating the layers with sheets of parchment paper. are for small plain cookies,
READY TO BAKE known in French as fours secs.
Certain cookies, such as chocolate chip and sparkling shortbread, can be frozen before baking. Once the
dough has been shaped into a log, cover it tightly in plastic wrap and freeze for up to 2 months. Defrost
for 6–8 hours in the refrigerator, before slicing and baking as normal.

274

275

SIMPLE CAKES & DESSERTS — EVERYDAY CAKES

Financiers

Serves 10 Ingredients
7 tbsp (3.5 oz./100 g) butter
Active time Scant ½ tsp (2 g) salt
20 minutes 2 tbsp plus 1 tsp
(1.75 oz./50 g) honey
Chilling time ¾ cup (5.25 oz./160 g)
2 hours egg white (about 5 ½ whites)
½ cup (2.5 oz./70 g)
Cooking time confectioners’ sugar
About 20 minutes for 2–3-in. Finely grated zest of 1 orange
(4–8-cm) individual cakes ½ cup (1.75 oz./50 g)
almond flour
Storage ½ cup minus 1 tbsp
Up to 2 days in the refrigerator (1.75 oz./50 g) flour
before piping
Up to 2 days in the refrigerator, Uses
baked and covered Individual cakes or as the base
in plastic wrap for layered desserts
Up to 3 months in the freezer
•1    Heat the butter in a saucepan until it browns and has
Equipment a nutty aroma (beurre noisette). Stir in the salt and strain
Instant-read thermometer through a fine-mesh sieve.
Pastry bag fitted with a plain
½-in. (10-mm) tip
Financier pan

CHEFS’ NOTES

• Avoid overbaking the financiers
as they will not keep as long.

• It’s not essential to whisk the egg whites
but it gives the financiers a lighter texture.

• Instead of orange zest, the financiers
can be flavored with vanilla extract.
• For pistachio-flavored financiers,

replace half the almond flour with pistachio flour.
• For chocolate-flavored financiers,

replace 1 tbsp (0.25 oz./10 g) of the flour with unsweetened
cocoa powder and sprinkle with small pieces of chocolate.

276

•2    Stir in the honey to prevent the butter cooking any more. •3    Whisk the egg whites until frothy and then lightly fold
Allow to cool to 95°F–104°F (35°C–40°C). in the confectioners’ sugar until combined.

•4    Add the orange zest, almond flour, and flour, followed •5    Preheat the oven to 425°F (220°C/Gas mark 7).
by the butter, and lightly fold everything together. Pipe the batter into the pans and bake for 15 minutes.
Chill for 2 hours to make the batter easier to pipe. Reduce the oven to 400°F (200°C/Gas mark 6) and
then 375°F (190°C/Gas mark 5) until the financiers are golden
around the edges—about 20 minutes in total.
277

SIMPLE CAKES & DESSERTS — EVERYDAY CAKES

Pound Cake

Quatre-Quarts

Serves 8 Ingredients •1    Preheat the oven to 375°F (190°C/Gas mark 5). Butter the pans
1 stick plus 2 tbsp and dust them with flour. In a mixing bowl, whisk together
Active time (5.25 oz./150 g) butter, the butter, sugar, and invert sugar and then add the eggs, vanilla,
30 minutes softened, plus extra for greasing and salt, beating until evenly combined.
1 cup (5 oz./140 g)
Cooking time confectioners’ sugar
45 minutes–1 hour 1 ¾ tsp (0.4 oz./12 g)
(for large cakes) invert sugar
⅔ cup (5.25 oz./150 g)
Storage lightly beaten egg
Up to 1 week in an airtight (about 3 eggs),
container, well covered at room temperature
in plastic wrap, or up Scant ½ tsp (2 ml) vanilla extract
to 3 months in the freezer 1 pinch of salt
1 cup plus 2 tbsp
Equipment (5.25 oz./150 g) flour,
Pastry bag without a tip plus extra for dusting
2 × 5 ½ × 3-in. (14 × 7.3-cm) loaf 1 tsp (4 g) baking powder
pans, 2 ¾ in. (7 cm) deep Softened butter to pipe
Parchment paper cone over the unbaked batter
(see technique p. 598)
Uses
Large cakes to be sliced
or individual cakes

CHEFS’ NOTES

• The piped softened butter helps the cake to rise evenly
and crack on top as it bakes, without having to cut it.
• To ensure the cakes remain moist, unmold them
as soon as they come out of the oven and cover them
with plastic wrap.

•3    Spoon the batter into the pastry bag, snip off the point,
and pipe into the pans, filling them by three-quarters.

278

•2    Sift in the flour with the baking powder and fold in.

•4    Spoon the softened butter into the paper cone and pipe a line To test for doneness, insert a cake tester or the tip of a knife
of butter down the center of the batter. Bake for 20 minutes, into the center of the cake; it should come out clean.
reduce the oven temperature to 350°F (180°C/Gas mark 4)
and bake for an additional 40 minutes. 279

SIMPLE CAKES & DESSERTS — EVERYDAY CAKES

Fruit Loaf Cake

Cake aux Fruits Confits

Serves 4–6 Ingredients
Active time 1.75 oz. (50 g) assorted
30 minutes candied fruit
Cooking time 0.75 oz. (20 g) candied
45 minutes red cherries
Storage 1 tsp (5 ml) rum
Up to 1 week in a dry place, 0.75 oz. (20 g) raisins
well covered in plastic wrap, ¾ stick (3 oz./85 g) butter,
or up to 3 months in the freezer softened, plus extra for greasing
Scant ½ cup (3 oz./85 g)
Equipment superfine sugar
5 ½ × 3-in. (14 × 7.3-cm) loaf pan, ¾ tsp (0.2 oz./5 g) honey
2 ¾ in. (7 cm) deep 6 tbsp (3 oz./85 g) egg
Pastry bag without a tip (about 2 eggs),
Parchment paper cone at room temperature
(see technique p. 598) ¼ tsp (1 g) vanilla extract
¼ tsp (1 g) salt
¾ cup (3.25 oz./95 g) flour, •1    Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C/Gas mark 4). Butter
divided, plus extra for dusting the pan and dust with flour. Drain and rinse the candied fruit
¾ tsp (3 g) baking powder and cherries under running water. Soak them in the rum
Sliced almonds for sprinkling and plump the raisins in a little boiling water.
1 tbsp (15 ml) syrup
½ tsp (2 g) softened butter,
to pipe on the batter

Use for
Large cakes to be sliced
or individual cakes

•4    Coat the fruit with 2 tablespoons of the flour. Sift the remaining
flour with the baking powder and add to the batter.

280

CHEFS’ NOTES

Dusting the candied fruits in flour prevents them
sinking to the bottom during baking.

•2    Whisk together the butter, sugar, and honey. •3    Drain the candied fruit and raisins, reserving the rum
Add the egg, a little at a time, followed by the vanilla and salt. to spoon over the baked cake.
Mix until all the ingredients form a smooth batter.

•5    Fold in the flour-coated fruit with a spatula. •6    Arrange sliced almonds evenly around the sides and over
the base of the pan. Spoon the batter into the pastry bag, snip off
the point, and pipe into the pan until it is three-quarters full. 
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Fruit Loaf Cake (continued)

•7    Fill the paper cone with the softened butter. Mark a line down •8    Sprinkle with more sliced almonds and bake
the center of the loaf and pipe the butter into it so the loaf rises for about 45 minutes. To test for doneness, insert a cake tester
evenly and cracks on top as it bakes. or the tip of a knife into the center of the loaf; it should have
no batter sticking to it when it comes out.

•9    As soon as the loaf comes out of the oven, brush the syrup
and reserved rum over it. Allow to cool on a rack.

282

Spiced Loaf Cake

Pain d’Épice

Serves 4–6 Ingredients •1    Line the loaf pan with parchment paper. Stand the opened jar
⅓ cup (3.5 oz./100 g) of honey in a pan of hot water to melt the honey.
Active time orange flower honey
1 hour 2 tbsp (30 ml) whole milk,
heated
Chilling time ¼ tsp (1 g) ground cinnamon
15 minutes ¼ tsp (1 g) ground nutmeg
¼ tsp (1 g) ground star anise
Cooking time ¼ tsp (1 ml) vanilla extract
30–40 minutes ½ tsp (2 g) finely grated
lemon zest
Resting time ½ tsp (2 g) finely grated
24 hours orange zest
¾ cup (2.5 oz./70 g) rye flour
Storage ⅓ cup (1 oz./30 g) flour
Up to 6 days in a dry place, well 2 tsp (0.25 oz./7 g) baking
covered in plastic wrap powder
1 ¾ tbsp (0.75 oz./20 g)
Equipment superfine sugar
5 ½ × 3-in. (14 × 7.3-cm) loaf pan, ⅓ cup (2.75 oz./70 g) lightly
2 ¾ in. (7 cm) deep beaten egg (about 1 ½ eggs)
Parchment paper cone ½ tsp (2 g) softened butter,
(see technique p. 598) to pipe on the batter

CHEFS’ NOTES

• Leave the loaf for 24 hours before serving
to give the flavors time to develop.

• You can brush the top of the loaf with jam
and decorate it with cinnamon sticks, whole star anise,

and pieces of candied citrus zest.
• You can also spoon a light syrup flavored with orange zest

over the loaf as soon as it comes out of the oven.

•2    Infuse the milk in a pan with the spices, vanilla, and citrus zests. 

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SIMPLE CAKES & DESSERTS — EVERYDAY CAKES

Spiced Loaf Cake (continued)

•3    Cover the pan with plastic wrap and chill for about 15 minutes. •4    Preheat the oven to 300°F (150°C/Gas mark 2).
Sift together the flours and baking powder.

•6    Add the spice-infused milk, the warm honey, and the dry •7    Pour the batter into the loaf pan, filling it three-quarters full.
ingredients, and stir with a spatula until evenly mixed.

284

•5    In a mixing bowl, whisk the sugar and eggs until pale and thick.
•8    Fill the paper cone with the softened butter and pipe a line

of butter down the center of the loaf. Bake for 30–40 minutes.
To test for doneness, insert a cake tester or the tip of a knife
into the center of the cake; it should come out clean.

285

SIMPLE CAKES & DESSERTS — EVERYDAY CAKES

Marble Loaf Cake

Cake Marbré

Serves 4–6 Ingredients
¾ stick (2.75 oz./80 g) butter,
Active time softened
1 hour ⅔ cup (3 oz./90 g)
confectioners’ sugar
Cooking time 1 tsp (8 g) invert sugar
35–40 minutes Scant ½ cup (3.5 oz./100 g)
lightly beaten egg
Storage (about 2 eggs),
Up to 1 week in a dry place, at room temperature
well covered in plastic wrap,
or up to 2 months in the freezer ¼ tsp (1 ml) vanilla extract
1 pinch of salt
Equipment ¾ cup plus 2 tbsp
5 ½ × 3-in. (14 × 7.3-cm) loaf pan, (3.5 oz./100 g) flour
2 ¾ in. (7 cm) deep ¼ tsp (1 g) baking powder
Stand mixer fitted 1 tbsp (0.25 oz./8 g)
with the paddle beater unsweetened cocoa powder,
Disposable pastry bags sifted

•1    Line the loaf pan with parchment paper. Beat the butter,
confectioners’ sugar, and invert sugar in the stand mixer
until combined and then beat in the eggs, vanilla, and salt.
Continue beating until smooth.

•3    Divide the batter equally between 2 bowls and stir the cocoa •4    Spoon the batters into separate pastry bags, snip off the points,
powder into one using a spatula. and pipe alternate layers of chocolate and plain batter
into the loaf pan, until it is three-quarters full.
286

•2    Sift the flour with the baking powder and beat into the mixture.
Preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C/Gas mark 6).

•5    Using the tip of a knife or a toothpick, marble the two mixtures
together by making zigzag patterns. Bake for 15 minutes and
then lower the oven temperature to 325°F (160°C/Gas mark 3)
and bake for an additional 20–25 minutes.

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SIMPLE CAKES & DESSERTS — EVERYDAY CAKES

Lemon Loaf Cake

Cake au Citron

Serves 8 Ingredients
Active time ½ oz. (13 g) Earl Grey tea
15 minutes 1 ½ tbsp (25 ml) hot water
Cooking time ⅓ cup (1.75 oz./55 g) sugar
30 minutes 1.5 oz. (45 g) almond paste,
Storage 50% almonds, softened
Up to 5 days in a dry place, Finely grated zest of 1 lemon
well covered in plastic wrap Finely grated zest of 1 lime
Equipment 1 ½ tbsp (1.25 oz./35 g) acacia
Stand mixer honey (or multi-floral honey)
2 × 5 ½ × 3-in. (14 × 7.3-cm) loaf Generous ½ cup
pans, 2 ¾ in. (7 cm) deep (4.75 oz./135 g) lightly beaten
egg (about 3 eggs)

¾ cup plus 2 tbsp
(3.5 oz./100 g) flour,
plus extra for dusting

¾ tsp (3 g) baking powder
Scant 1 stick (3.75 oz./110 g)
butter, melted to lukewarm,
plus extra for greasing

•1    Preheat the oven to 325°F (160°C/Gas mark 3).
Infuse the tea in the hot water.

•3    Swap the beater for the whisk and gradually beat in the honey, •4    Sift the flour with the baking powder, add the butter,
tea, and eggs until smooth and creamy. and mix in until the batter is smooth.

288

•2    Meanwhile, fit the stand mixer with the paddle beater
and beat the sugar, almond paste, and grated zests together.

•5    Grease the pans with butter and dust them lightly with flour.
Pour the batter into the pans and bake for about 30 minutes,
or until a cake tester or the tip of a knife inserted into the center
comes out clean. Allow to cool in the pans before unmolding
onto a rack.

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SIMPLE CAKES & DESSERTS — EVERYDAY CAKES

Chocolate and Nut Loaf Cake

Cake au Chocolat

Serves 4–6 Ingredients
2.5 oz. (70 g) almond paste,
Active time 50% almonds
25 minutes Scant ½ cup (3 oz./85 g)
superfine sugar
Cooking time Scant ½ cup (3.5 oz./100 g)
50 minutes egg (about 2 eggs)
Scant 1 cup (3 oz. /90 g) flour,
Storage plus extra for dusting
Up to 3 days in a dry place, well 2 tbsp (0.5 oz./15 g)
covered in plastic wrap unsweetened cocoa powder
¾ tsp (3 g) baking powder
Equipment ⅓ cup (75 ml) whole milk
5 ½ × 3-in. (14 × 7.3-cm) loaf pan, ¾ stick (3 oz./85 g) butter,
2 ¾ in. (7 cm) deep melted to lukewarm,
Stand mixer plus extra for greasing
Parchment paper cone ½ tsp (2 g) softened butter,
(see technique p. 598) to pipe on the batter

Filling •1    Grease the loaf pan with butter and dust it with flour.
⅓ cup (1.5 oz./50 g) whole Soften the almond paste with a spatula.
hazelnuts
Scant ¼ cup (1 oz./25 g) whole
unsalted pistachios
1 oz. (25 g) candied orange peel

•4    Sift together the flour, cocoa powder, and baking powder. •5    Add the milk to the almond paste mixture and then fold
in half the sifted dry ingredients. Preheat the oven
290 to 300°F (150°C/Gas mark 2).

•2    Fit the stand mixer with the whisk, mix the almond paste •3    When combined, beat with a spatula for 10 minutes
with the sugar, and then beat in the eggs, one at a time. to make the mixture light and airy.

•6    Spread out the hazelnuts on a baking sheet and roast •7    Coarsely chop the pistachios and finely dice the candied
for 15 minutes. Cool and then chop. Increase the oven orange peel. 
temperature to 400°F (200°C/Gas mark 6). 291

SIMPLE CAKES & DESSERTS — EVERYDAY CAKES

Chocolate and Nut Loaf Cake (continued)

•8    Coat the nuts and diced orange peel in the remaining sifted dry •9    Fold in the melted butter. Pour the batter into the pan,
ingredients and mix into the batter. filling it three-quarters full. Place in the oven for 10 minutes.

CHEFS’ NOTES

Cover the loaf in plastic wrap when cold so it stays moist.

•10    Remove from the oven, make an incision on the top of the cake
lengthwise, fill the paper cone with the softened butter and pipe
a line of butter in the incision. Place back in the oven, reduce
the temperature to 325°F (160°C/Gas mark 3), and bake for
30–35 minutes. Cool in the pan before unmolding onto a rack.

292

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SIMPLE CAKES & DESSERTS — EVERYDAY CAKES

Pistachio and Raspberry Loaf Cake

Cake à la Pistache et Framboise

Serves 4–6 Ingredients
Active time Raspberry concentrate
30 minutes 9 oz. (250 g) raspberries
Cooking time
45–50 minutes (plus making Batter
the raspberry concentrate) Scant ⅓ cup (2.75 oz./80 g)
egg yolk (about 4 ½ yolks)
Storage ⅔ cup (4.25 oz./120 g) sugar
Up to 3 days in a dry place, 4 tbsp (60 ml) full fat crème
well covered in plastic wrap fraîche or heavy cream
Scant 1 cup (3.25oz./95 g) flour
Equipment ½ tsp (2 g) baking powder
5 ½ × 3-in. (14 × 7.3-cm) loaf pan, ½ tsp (2 g) finely grated lime
2 ¾ in. (7 cm) deep zest
Parchment paper cone 3 ¾ tbsp (1.5 oz./40 g) butter,
(see technique p. 598) melted and cooled
0.5 oz. (15 g) pistachio paste
½ tsp (2 g) softened butter
to pipe on the batter

•1    Make the raspberry concentrate by cooking the raspberries
in a pan over low heat until reduced to a pulp weighing 3.5 oz.
(100 g). Line the loaf pan with parchment paper.

•4    Layer the two mixtures alternately in the loaf pan. •5    Using the tip of a knife or a toothpick, marble the two mixtures
Preheat the oven to 325°F (155°C/Gas mark 3). together by making zigzag patterns.

294

•2    Whisk the egg yolks and sugar in a bowl until pale and thick, •3    Divide the batter between 2 bowls, putting one-third
and then whisk in the cream. Sift in the flour and baking powder, in one and two-thirds in the other. Color the one-third red
add the lime zest, and mix together. Finally, incorporate with the raspberry concentrate, and the two-thirds green
the melted butter. with the pistachio paste.

•6    Fill the paper cone with the softened butter and pipe a line
of butter down the center of the cake. Bake for about 15 minutes
and then lower the temperature to 300°F (145°C/Gas mark 2)
and bake for 25–30 minutes.

295

SIMPLE CAKES & DESSERTS — EVERYDAY CAKES

Chestnut Loaf Cake

Cake aux Marrons

Serves 8 Ingredients •1    Butter the loaf pans. Fit the stand mixer with the paddle beater
Active time Cake batter and beat half the egg whites with the confectioners’ sugar,
30 minutes ½ cup (4.25 oz./120 g) egg white almond flour, and flour. When combined, beat in the browned
Resting time (about 4 whites), divided butter and transfer the batter to a mixing bowl.
40 minutes 1 cup (2.75 oz./75 g)
Cooking time confectioners’ sugar, sifted •4    Pour the batter into the loaf pans. Lay the silicone mat
30–40 minutes ⅔ cup (1.75 oz./55 g) on a baking sheet, stand the pans on it, fold the mat over them
Storage almond flour (or use a second mat) and place the second baking sheet on top.
Up to 2 weeks in a dry place, ½ cup (1.75 oz./50 g) flour, sifted Bake for 30–40 minutes.
well covered in plastic wrap ½ stick (1.75 oz./50 g) butter,
(undecorated cakes); up to melted, browned, and cooled,
2 days in the refrigerator plus extra for greasing
(decorated) 1 ¼ tbsp (0.5 oz./15 g) sugar
Equipment 1.5 oz. (40 g) red currants
Stand mixer 1.5 oz. (40 g) candied chestnut
2 × 5 ½ × 3-in. (14 × 7.3-cm) pieces
loaf pans, 2 ¾ in. (7 cm) deep
2 baking sheets Red currant cream
1 large (or 2 smaller) silicone 3.5 oz. (100 g) red currant purée
baking mats ⅓ cup (3 oz./90 g) egg
2 pastry bags fitted (about 2 eggs)
with a plain ½-in. (10-mm) tip Scant ½ cup (2.75 oz./80 g)
and a vermicelli tip sugar
Scant 1 tsp (4 g) powdered
296 gelatin
1 ½ tbsp (25 ml) water
3 tbsp (1.5 oz./40 g) butter,
softened

Chestnut cream
3 oz. (85 g) chestnut spread
(crème de marrons)
1 ½ tbsp (25 ml) whole milk
1 tbsp (0.75 oz./20 g) egg yolk
(about 1 yolk)
1 tsp (3 g) custard powder
(or cornstarch)
½ tsp (3 ml) rum
⅔ stick (2 oz./60 g) butter,
softened

Decoration
Confectioners’ sugar
Candied chestnut pieces
Small sprigs of red currants

•2    Fit the stand mixer with the whisk and whisk the remaining •3    Fold in the red currants and candied chestnut pieces.
egg whites with the sugar to firm peaks. Fold into the batter, Preheat the oven to 325°F (160°C/Gas mark 3).
taking care not to deflate the whisked whites.

•5    To make the red currant cream, bring the red currant •6    Whisk a little of the hot red currant purée into the egg mixture,
purée to a boil. Whisk the egg and sugar until pale and thick. pour the mixture back into the pan, and bring to a boil,
Soak the gelatin in the water to soften it. whisking constantly. 
297

SIMPLE CAKES & DESSERTS — EVERYDAY CAKES

Chestnut Loaf Cake (continued)

•7    Stir in the butter and gelatin. Transfer to a mixing bowl, •8    Heat the chestnut spread with the milk. Whisk the egg yolks
cool, and then chill until needed. and custard powder together in a bowl. Whisk in a little
of the hot chestnut milk, and pour the mixture back into the pan.

•11    When the cakes are cool, spoon the red currant cream •12    Spoon the chestnut cream into the pastry bag fitted
into the pastry bag with the plain tip and pipe it over the tops with the vermicelli tip and pipe it generously
of the cakes. over the red currant cream.

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