Fashion The Definitive History of Costume and Style 2012

GLOSSARY 449

MAGENTA The second aniline dye MARABOU Down from the Marabou MINISKIRT A term for a thigh-length Jester hat
to be invented, after mauve; a stork (Leptoptilos crumeniferus), skirt or dress, made popular by Mask
pinkish crimson color; see also used for trimming women’s British designer Mary Quant.
Mauve, Solferino. garments and making feather boas.
MID-1960S ▷: SEE PP.352–3, 356–7
1860 ▷
MARY JANES MINK Dense, glossy fur from the
MAGYAR BLOUSE Flat-heeled, mink, a relative of the weasel.
A style based on round-toed
the traditional shoes with a MITER Stiffened cap of two parts
dress of a strap and that form a peak at the top; first
Hungarian buckle, first worn by the pope, cardinals, and
ethnic group; long or short sleeves made for young bishops of the Church in Rome;
are cut as part of the bodice. girls but now adapted for adults. in white silk or linen.

1890S–1910 EARLY 20TH CENTURY ▷: SEE P.356 C.10TH CENTURY ▷

MANDARIN COLLAR A short, MAUVE The color of mauveine, an MOCCASINS Soft leather shoes based Woman in Carnival costume, Venice
unfolded stand-up collar, open aniline dye; on fabrics, it could make on Native Americans’ shoes, in The costumes at Venice Carnival are based
at the front, for shirts or jackets. a range from bright purple to the which the lower part is wrapped on a stock of traditional masks. The most
20TH CENTURY ▷: SEE P.439 typical faded lilac shade. around the foot and common is the volto mask, a simple white
sewn to a flat mask that covers the whole face.
MANDARIN JACKET A Chinese men’s 1850S ▷ top part; see
jacket of plain fabric or brocade, also Loafers. Zavijacka
with a mandarin collar, three-quarter MAXI SKIRT A full-length skirt, 20TH CENTURY ▷:
length sleeves, and frogging, now in contrast to the miniskirt. SEE P.437 Silk fringed
also popular in the West. SEE PP.359, 380 scarf
20TH CENTURY ▷: SEE P.447 MOD STYLE A British youth style,
M-CUT COLLAR First seen on men’s featuring a clean, sharp appearance, Woman in traditional Slovenian dress
MANNEQUIN A life-size dummy for coats of the Regency period, a collar and items such as parkas and In Slovenia unmarried women wear the
displaying clothes; also a word in which notches are cut at the ends winklepickers for men and shift triangular zavijacka head scarf, while
formerly used for a human model, just above the lapels. dresses for women. married women wear an elaborately
particularly in French fashion houses. LATE 1950S-MID-1960S: SEE PP.405–6 embroidered headdress called an avba.
MID-18TH CENTURY ▷ C.1800–1870
MODEL A person employed to wear
MANTILLA A large, lightweight MEDICI COLLAR An embroidered or clothes for display at fashion shows
veil or scarf, often of black lace, lace collar on women’s garments, or in photo shoots.
covering the head and shoulders, standing up behind the head but MID-20TH CENTURY ▷: SEE PP.355, 409
and typically worn by Catholic tapering away toward the throat.
women in Spain and Latin MOHAIR Fabric made from the hair
American countries. 18TH–EARLY 20TH CENTURY of the Angora goat, now used for
coats and lounge suits, or in a
18TH CENTURY ▷ MEDLEY A cloth in which different fluffier form for sweaters.
colors are used for the warp and
MANTLE A full-length garment the weft, or mixed in the yarn. 17TH CENTURY ▷
similar to a cloak, but without
a hood. MEDIEVAL ▷ MOIRÉ FINISH A wavy pattern
12TH CENTURY ▷: SEE PP.46–9, 74–5 seen on watered fabrics, made
MERINO Fine cloth made from the by heating or wetting the fabric
MANTUA A women’s gown, wool of the Merino sheep, used in and running it through heavy,
originally with an unboned bodice suits and sportswear. ribbed rollers.
and an overskirt drawn back to
show the petticoat, later becoming 19TH CENTURY ▷ MOLESKIN A tightly woven cotton
more structured, worn over wide fabric with a short, soft pile, often
panniers; see also Robe à l’anglaise. MICROMINI A very short miniskirt, used for men’s pants.
MID-17TH–MID-18TH CENTURY: SEE PP.138–43 reaching to the top of the thighs.
1960S ▷: SEE PP.356–7, 361 19TH CENTURY ▷
MAO SUIT A suit comprising a
mandarin jacket and loose-fitting MIDI SKIRT A calf-length skirt, in MOON BOOTS Thick-soled boots with
pants, made in somber colors, and contrast to the mini- and maxi skirt. a padded synthetic upper, first made
formerly worn by Chinese people. 1960S ▷: SEE PP.359 as après-ski wear, and inspired by
MID-20TH CENTURY the boots worn by astronauts.
MILLINER A maker and seller of
high-quality or high-fashion hats; 1970S ▷
also sold notions in the 18th century.

LATE 18TH CENTURY ▷

450 REFERENCE

Kabotec MORNING COAT A men’s tailcoat N NEHRU JACKET A simple, hip-length
Wierzchen derived from the Newmarket coat, jacket with a high, round collar,
now worn for formal occasions. NANKEEN A sturdy cotton fabric modeled on the jackets worn by
Zapaska 1870S ▷: SEE PP.210, 224–5 with a natural yellow or buff color, Indian leader Jawaharlal Nehru;
originally made in China. worn by The Beatles.
MOROCCO LEATHER A leather first 1960S ▷: SEE P.448
made in Moorish areas from finest 18TH CENTURY
kid hide and traditionally dyed red. NEOCLASSICAL DRESS A style of
NAP A term for raised fibers on a women’s dress that arose in reaction
17TH CENTURY ▷ cloth surface, as in flannel, suede, to the previous ornate formal styles,
or velvet; see also Pile. featuring simple, slim-fitting dresses
MOTLEY A term for a garment or inspired by Ancient Greek clothing.
fabric made with a mixture of colors. LATE 18TH–EARLY 19TH CENTURY: SEE PP.168–9

14TH–17TH CENTURY

MUFF A tubular padded covering of NAPA LEATHER A fine, supple leather NETWORK A form of lace in which
fur or fabric, into which both hands used for gloves and jackets. a pattern is worked on to a ground
are inserted for warmth. of fine mesh.
C.1895 ▷
C.1550 ▷: SEE PP.124–5, 192, 231 16TH–17TH CENTURY

Woman from Upper Silesia, Poland MULES Backless slip-on shoes with NATIONAL STANDARD DRESS A simple, NEW LOOK The term used for the
Folk costumes in Poland, which are based a closed toe, low- or high-heeled, standardized, calf-length dress for styles presented by Christian Dior in
on 18th- and 19th-century fashions, are now mainly worn by women. women, devised by the British his first collections in 1947, featuring
intricately embroidered, and worn with government during World War I but full, billowing skirts and small waists.
silver jewelry, beads, and ribbons. 16TH CENTURY ▷ never widely accepted. 1947: SEE PP.316–9

Vinok MUSLIN A finely woven, medium to 1918 NEWMARKET COAT A tailcoat
light cotton cloth; in the US, another originally designed for riding, either
Vyshyvanka name for a toile; known as Calico in NÉGLIGÉE A light or sheer dressing single-breasted or double-breasted,
the UK. gown for women. with the front sloping away from
19TH CENTURY ▷: SEE P.252 above waist level.
16TH CENTURY ▷
1830S–C.1900
NECKLINES
NEW ROMANTIC STYLE A youth style
that was a reaction to punk style,
with frilled shirts, garments inspired
by 18th-century dress, and makeup
for both sexes.

LATE 1970S–MID-1980S: SEE P.407

BATEAU-NECK JEWEL NECK SCOOP NECK NEWSBOY CAP Wide cap with
a deep brim and peak, like the caps
traditionally worn by tradesmen; in
the 1960s, worn by men and women.

1960S ▷: SEE PP.382, 428

Plahta NORFOLK JACKET A man’s jacket
for country pursuits, often made of
SQUARE NECK SWEETHEART NECK U-NECK Harris tweed or homespun, with a
belt, bellows pockets, and inverted
box pleats at the front and back.

1880 ▷: SEE PP.217, 448

Ukrainian girl in traditional dress V-NECK COWL NECK CREW NECK NOTCH A triangular
This girl wears a richly embroidered mark on a garment
costume, or vyshyvanka, and a floral pattern showing
wreath called a vinok. The wreath where the edge of
is worn by unmarried women. one piece matches
up with the edge
of another.

GLOSSARY 451

NOTIONS US dressmaking term ORGANDIE A fine cotton or nylon PALAZZO PANTS Loose, wide-legged PANNIERS Also known as side hoops,
for items needed to complete a gauze with a crisp finish. pants for women, often in a light, these were pads or frames attached
garment, such as zippers, buttons, soft fabric. to the hips to hold the skirt out at
and thread; see also Haberdashery. 19TH CENTURY ▷ 1960S ▷: SEE P.451 the sides; they evolved into large
oblong hoops.
NYLON A trade name for a range ORGANZA A light, crisp, sheer fabric PALETOT (a) A three-quarter-length EARLY 18TH CENTURY: SEE PP.146, 149
of synthetic fibers used to make a of silk, polyester, or rayon. pleated cloak with a stiff cape, for
wide variety of garments, notably women, or a close-fitting, knee- PANTOFLES Slip-on overshoes for
stockings and tights. EARLY 19TH CENTURY ▷ length outdoor coat; (b) a short outdoor wear, or slippers for indoors.
greatcoat, worn by men. LATE -15TH–MID 17TH CENTURY: SEE P.84
1935 ▷ ORIENTALISM The adoption of 19TH CENTURY: SEE P.216
Middle Eastern and Far Eastern dress PANTSUIT A suit of jacket and pants
NYLON TAFFETA A stiff, paperlike styles, or interpretations of these PALLA A rectangular wrap draped designed for women but with
form of nylon, notably used to styles, in European or American around the body, worn by women. masculine tailoring; see also
make the layers of petticoats fashion. Androgynous style, Le smoking.
under 1950s skirts; known as 17TH CENTURY ▷: SEE PP.188–91, 212–3, ANCIENT ROME 20TH CENTURY ▷: SEE PP.359, 396–7
Paper Nylon in UK.
244–5, 267 PANAMA HAT A man’s summer PAREO A traditional Tahitian wrap
1950S ▷ hat woven from fibers of the for women, originally made from
ORPHREY A form of embroidery Central American toquilla palm, bark cloth and tied around the waist;
O using gold thread. and flexible enough to be rolled modern pareos are made of cotton
up for carrying. and are popular as beachwear.
OBI A long sash worn around the 13TH CENTURY ▷
waist, over a kimono, as part of 1830S ▷ PARKA A coat
traditional Japanese dress; women OXFORD BAGS Very wide, baggy worn by the Arctic
wear a wide obi, which can be tied pants for men, often associated with PANES A decoration peoples of North
in a variety of decorative knots. students at Oxford University, UK; on sleeves or men’s America; today a
SEE P.459 revived for both sexes in the 1970s. trunk-hose, made warm, protective,
by slashing the fabric waterproof
OBLONG HOOPS Whalebone or 1920S AND 1970S so that the lining garment often
willow structures that evolved from or undergarments made of synthetic
panniers, forming a wide, flat shape OXFORD SHIRTING A plain weave showed through. material, with a
to support the robe à la française. cotton with narrow, colored stripes. 1500–C.1660: SEE PP.88–93 fur-lined hood;
see also Anorak,
1740S–1760S 19TH CENTURY PANNE VELVET Soft velvet with the Mod style.
pile pressed flat in one direction 1960S ▷: SEE P.346
OFF-THE-PEG A UK term for a P to give a highly lustrous surface.
garment of a standard shape and
size that is not customized for the PADDOCK COAT A knee-length, LATE 18TH CENTURY ▷
wearer; see Ready-to-wear. single-breasted or double-breasted
overcoat for men, with two inverted PLEATS
box pleats at the rear.

1892 ▷

PAGODA SLEEVES Elbow-length,
bell-shaped sleeves on dresses, with
engageantes worn under them.
1849–1860S: SEE PP.196–7

OPEN GOWN A style of women’s ACCORDION PLEATS BOX PLEATS CARTRIDGE PLEATS
dress in which the overskirt is INVERTED PLEATS
open at the front to reveal a PAISLEY PATTERN A distinctive KICK PLEATS KNIFE PLEATS
decorative underskirt or petticoat; teardrop-shaped motif adapted
see also Mantua. from Indian buteh patterns, named
18TH CENTURY ▷: SEE PP.87, 142–3 for the Scottish town that wove
imitation Kashmiri shawls.
OPERA HAT A man’s formal hat that
could be compressed and easily 19TH CENTURY ▷: SEE PP.366, 377
carried under the arm; one form,
the gibus hat, is still used today.

19TH CENTURY ▷

452 REFERENCE

PARTLET Yoke piece with collar PEACOAT A heavy, double-breasted POCKETS
worn in Northern Europe over wool jacket formerly worn by sailors
a low-cut gown to cover the in the US and European navies,
décolletage; tied under the and now a classic style for men;
arms or pinned to clothes. see also Reefer.

16TH–17TH CENTURY: SEE PP.86–7, 106 1830S ▷: SEE P.447

PARTI-COLORED A term for a PEASCOD BELLY Doublet with extra BELLOWS POCKET FLAP POCKET SLASH POCKET
garment made with the left and padding at the waist to give the
right sides in different-colored effect of a protruding stomach, or
fabrics; also called mi-parti. peapod (“peascod”); Dutch style.
14TH–15TH CENTURY: SEE PP.62–3 LATE 16TH CENTURY: SEE PP.100, 105

PARURE A set of matching jewelry, PEIGNOIR A long, sheer outer
such as earrings, necklace, garment for women, worn around
and bracelet. the house like a dressing gown.
LATE 18TH CENTURY ▷: SEE P.175
LATE 18TH CENTURY ▷

PASHMINA (a) A fine, lightweight PELISSE A three-quarter-length PATCH POCKET SLASH (OR ONE-QUARTER) TICKET POCKET
cashmere fabric made from pashm fitted coat for women, often with
(a Persian word for the softest belly a shoulder cape and fur, silk, or POCKET
hair on goats), or a blend of pashm satin trim; also a women’s cloak
and silk, and usually woven in or mantle. PETTICOAT For men, a warm women, often trimmed with
South Asia; (b) a shawl made 18TH–19TH CENTURY: SEE PP.171, 175–7 garment worn under a doublet; for ribbons and artificial flowers.
from pashmina or from synthetic women, an underskirt, sometimes 1890S ▷: SEE PP.428–9
fiber with a similar texture. PENCIL SKIRT A narrow, close-fitting, reinforced with a frame to hold the
knee-length skirt, often with a slit skirt (see Hoop petticoat), and later PIKED SHOES Shoes with long,
PASSEMENTERIE Ornamental braids at the back for ease of movement. an undergarment. narrow points at the toes; see
and other trimmings made with silk, 1940S ▷: SEE PP.332, 396–7, 457 MEDIEVAL ▷: SEE PP.144–5, 344 also Poulaine.
gold or silver threads, and tassels.
16TH–19TH CENTURY: SEE PP.90–1 PEPLOS A woman’s garment made PHRYGIAN CAP 14TH–15TH CENTURY
from a rectangle or tube of fabric A soft, cone-
PATCH POCKET A pocket formed folded around the body, with an shaped hat PILE A form of nap made by
from a piece of fabric sewn on overhang above the waist, and held with the tip adding an extra yarn to a fabric
to the surface of a garment. in place by brooches and a belt. bending to give a raised surface; fabrics
19TH CENTURY ▷: SEE PP.226, 335, 380, 453 :C.500–300BCE SEE P.25 forward; with a pile include velvet, corduroy,
worn by men and bouclé.
PATCHWORK Cloth made from PEPLUM In women’s garments, in medieval times, and adopted
small pieces of fabric sewn together, a short, gathered overskirt sewn by the “sans-culottes” in PILLBOX HAT A woman’s hat with
often with a mixture of colors and into the waistband of a jacket, the French Revolution. straight sides, a flat crown, and no
patterns; popular in hippy style. skirt, or shirt, forming a flounce 9TH–12TH CENTURY: 1790 brim, made famous by US First Lady
SEE P.381 over the hips. Jacqueline Kennedy.
1940S ▷: SEE PP.203, 273, 397 PICKADIL Originally a tabbed or 1950S ▷: SEE PP.428–9
PATENT LEATHER Leather coated with scalloped border on a doublet; later
lacquer to give a high-gloss finish; PETER PAN COLLAR A soft, turned-down a support for a ruff or starched collar. PILOT CLOTH A heavy, twilled
used for men’s formal shoes and collar with rounded ends, usually seen 16TH CENTURY: SEE PP.118–9 cloth with a nap, used for men’s
women’s shoes and handbags. on women’s and children’s clothing. overcoats; traditionally dyed
18TH CENTURY ▷: SEE P.367 C.1909 ▷: SEE P.439 PICOT A series of loops of twisted blue and used by the navy.
thread, forming an ornamental
PATTENS Wood-soled overshoes, PETERSHAM CLOTH A heavy wool edging to lace, ribbon, or braid. 19TH CENTURY ▷
sometimes with an iron ring cloth, often dyed navy blue and
underneath, for outdoor wear. formerly used for peacoats. 17TH CENTURY ▷ PINAFORE DRESS A practical dress
-14TH–MID 19TH CENTURY: SEE P.85 MID-19TH CENTURY ▷ with a bib front or sleeveless bodice,
PICTURE HAT A wide-brimmed, worn over a blouse or thin sweater;
PETERSHAM RIBBON Heavyweight brightly colored summer hat for often worn by young girls.
ribbon with thick ribbing, used as
a trim for hats and garments. See 20TH CENTURY ▷
also grograin.

C.1840 ▷

GLOSSARY 453

PINKING (a) Also called pouncing, PLUS FOURS Knickerbockers with a POPLIN A strong fabric with fine Fermelli
making a pattern of tiny holes puffed overhang (“plus four inches”) crosswise ribs, originally with a silk
or slits in a fabric; (b) trimming at the knees; notably worn by golfers warp and wool or worsted weft, but Fustanella
an unhemmed fabric edge and popularized by British king now made from a variety of fibers;
by cutting it Edward VIII. watered poplin is called tabbinet. Tsarouhia
into a zigzag 1920S ▷: SEE PP.284–5 Presidential Guard, Athens, Greece
line with LATE 17TH CENTURY ▷ Traditional tsarouhia shoes have been part
pinking shears. POKE BONNET A bonnet with a of Greek military dress since the Ottoman
fabric-lined front brim that projects PORKPIE HAT A man’s hat with a Occupation in 1821. The red color
PINSONS Light indoor shoes, over the face; tied on with ribbons. narrow, turned-up brim and a low, symbolizes the blood of fallen soldiers.
often adorned with fur. 19TH CENTURY: SEE PP.192–3 flat crown with an indentation
around the edge. Fez
14TH–LATE 16TH CENTURY ▷ POINTS Laces used to tie garments Yelek
to one another: for example, 1860S ▷
PINTUCKS Tiny pleats that are sewn attaching trunk-hose to doublets, Shalwar
along their edges to secure them. or sleeves to doublets or bodices. POULAINE A medieval shoe worn
SEE P.392 by men and women, with a very Turkish man in traditional dress
MEDIEVAL long, pointed toe. The Moroccan fez spread throughout the
PIPING A strip of fabric-covered cord 13TH–15TH CENTURY: SEE P.65 Ottoman Empire when it was adopted as
inserted into a seam as decorative POLLERA Full, gathered skirt, often military dress in the 19th century. It
edging or to accentuate the shapes ruffled or tiered; worn in several POURPOINT A buttoned or laced, remains popular for Turkish men today.
of a garment. Latin American countries, including fitted, and waisted man’s jacket
SEE PP.181, 332, 388 Panama and Bolivia; derived from worn in medieval Europe; hose
17th-century court dress. could be tied to it; also called a
PIQUÉ A cotton fabric with a raised, MID-19TH CENTURY ▷: SEE P.441 doublet or gipon.
woven design, often a diamond or MEDIEVAL: SEE P.64
honeycomb pattern. POLO COAT A knee-length camel
hair overcoat for men, often double- POWER DRESSING Business wear for
19TH CENTURY ▷ breasted, with patch pockets. women that combined masculine
elements, such as padded shoulders,
PLACKET A short opening at the top LATE 19TH CENTURY ▷ with feminine elements, such as
of a woman’s skirt or pants, so that short skirts, high heels, and bowed
the garment can be pulled on easily. POLONAISE A style of women’s dress neckline blouses.
with an overskirt that is hitched up 1980S: SEE PP.396–9
16TH CENTURY ▷ with looped tapes or drawstrings,
revealing the underskirt. PREPPY STYLE A classic style
PLAID A wool twill cloth, usually 1770S–1870S: SEE PP.144–9 associated with wealthy American
woven with a tartan or checked students, consisting of chinos,
pattern, traditionally worn as part POLONY HEEL A high, stacked heel blazers, and loafers for men, and
of Scottish Highlanders’ dress; thought to have been made from Fair Isle sweaters and pleated
see also Arisaid, Kilt. pieces of leather. skirts for women.
SEE P.412 MID-20TH CENTURY ▷
17TH CENTURY
PLASTRON Stiff panel in the PRÊT-À-PORTER The French term
center of a surcoat or panel POLYESTER A synthetic fiber used to for ready-to-wear.
worn underneath a gown bodice; make crease-resistant, quick-drying,
popular in the French court of easy-care fabrics. PRINCE OF WALES CHECK A wool
the 14th century. fabric with a twill weave and a
14TH–15TH CENTURY: SEE PP.64, 81 1940S ▷ pattern of small and large checks;
popularized by Edward VIII when
PLATFORM SHOES Shoes with a high POMPADOUR HEEL See French heel. Prince of Wales.
heel and a very thick, built-up sole, 1930S ▷: SEE PP.286, 381
especially popular in the glam rock POM-POM A small ball of fabric,
and disco styles of the 1970s. feathers, or tufts used as decoration PRINCESS-SEAMED DRESS A dress
1940S ▷: SEE PP.372, 376, 426–7 for clothing, hats, or shoes. made with the bodice and skirt
MID-18TH CENTURY ▷: SEE P.204 panels cut as one piece and gores
PLEAT A fold that is created by in the skirt; the bodice is lightly
doubling fabric back on itself PONCHO A wool cape first worn by fitted, and the skirt flares out; it
and securing one or both edges; South American gauchos and has no waist seam but has darts
may be pressed or unpressed, Andean peoples, made from a at the waist to give shape.
and may be used singly or as diamond or rectangle of fabric with 1840S ▷: SEE P.326
a series of parallel folds. a central hole for the head; popular
in 1970s Western fashion.

454 REFERENCE

Beaska PSYCHEDELIC A term for bright Q RAYON An “artificial silk” made
Luhkka colors and wild, swirling patterns, from cellulose (fibrous material from
inspired by psychedelic rock and QUAIL-PIPE BOOTS Men’s high- plants) and used to make stockings
culture; clothing with these patterns topped boots of soft leather that and other garments.
was a feature of hippy style; see sagged into folds down the legs.
also Patchwork, Tie-dye. 1910 ▷
LATE 1960S–EARLY 1970S: SEE PP.374–5 LATE 14TH–EARLY 17TH CENTURY
READY-TO-WEAR Clothing sold in
PUFFS A decorative QUEUE (a) The tail of hair hanging standard sizes and shapes that can
effect created from the back of some styles of wig; be worn off-the-peg, in contrast to
by pulling pieces (b) a hairstyle typically worn by made-to-measure or bespoke items.
of fabric from an Manchurian or Native American SEE PP.308–9, 334–5
underlying garment men, consisting of a shaved head
through slashes at the front, with a long, gathered REBATO A wired or starched collar,
or panes in an ponytail at the back. often of lace, that stood up around
overgarment. LATE 17TH CENTURY ▷: SEE P.152 the neck of a woman’s dress; also
1500–1650S: SEE PP.86, 90–1 the wire support for a collar or ruff.

C.1580–1635

Sami man in traditional dress, Finland PUFFED SLEEVES Very short sleeves QUILTING A technique used to REDINGOTE Originally a traveling
This Sami man wears a wool hat and a that are gathered at the armscye so combine two layers of fabric with coat for men or women; later a long,
tunic called a luhkka. The pattern on they puff out over the shoulders, padding between, by using lines of close-fitting overcoat or dress worn
these garments indicates his origin or clan. and gathered in at the lower edge. stitching, often making a pattern. by women, primarily for riding horses.
His coat is made of reindeer hide. EARLY 19TH CENTURY ▷: SEE PP.90–1, 120–1, 174 SEE P.377 C.1790–EARLY 20TH CENTURY: SEE P.179

Howli PULLED-THREAD WORK A style of R REEFER JACKET A hip-length,
embroidery in which threads in a double-breasted jacket with a low
Jebba fabric are pulled together tightly to RAGLAN SLEEVE A sleeve that runs collar and short lapels, two lines
leave a pattern of small gaps; see from the underarm to the neckline, of buttons, and short side vents,
Tunisian man in traditional dress also Drawn-thread work. covering the entire shoulder. formerly worn in the British Royal
Though many Tunisians wear European 1850S ▷: SEE PP.337, 399, 448 Navy, but now a classic coat for
clothes for daily wear, the traditional PUMPS Women’s men; see also Peacoat.
jebba is still worn by the older generation shoes with a low RANELAGH MOB A headdress of 1860 ▷: SEE P.289
and for ceremonial events. vamp and a gauze or lace, folded diagonally and
medium-high worn with the ends crossed under REP A cloth with distinct horizontal
heel; known in the chin and tied behind. ribs, such as poplin.
the UK as Court shoes.
20TH CENTURY ▷: SEE PP.273, 396, 426–7. 1760S 19TH CENTURY ▷

PUNK STYLE A youth fashion style RA-RA SKIRT A short, frilled skirt. RETRO A term for a fashion inspired
designed specifically to challenge Briefly popular in the 1980s. by the style of a few decades earlier.
social norms and existing fashions, 1960S ▷: SEE P.457
with features such as spiked hair, LATE 20TH CENTURY
ripped clothes with safety pins, RASTA STYLE Originating in Jamaica,
slim-fitting pants, and Dr. (Doc) a style featuring dreadlocks in the REVERS Originally
Martens boots. hair, large wool caps, and the a facing or edging
1970S–80S: SEE PP.390, 404 Rastafari colors of red, gold, and on a garment; later
green; made world famous by a turned-back edge
PUPPYTOOTH A small houndstooth the singer Bob Marley. showing the reverse
checked pattern. 1930S ▷: SEE P.407 side, in particular
a lapel.
1950S ▷ RATIONAL DRESS An early attempt
to devise a practical dress style 14TH CENTURY ▷
PURFLE A decorative trim or edging for women, including bloomers
for a garment. (divided skirts) for cycling and RHINESTONE An imitation diamond
sports; despite its virtues, only made of glass or paste, often used
15TH–18TH CENTURY a minority of women adopted in costume jewelry and diamanté.
the style.
PVC Polyvinyl chloride, a coating 1881–1900: SEE PP.236–7 LATE 19TH CENTURY ▷
used on fabrics to give a high-gloss,
waterproof finish. RIBBING In knitting, a pattern in
20TH CENTURY ▷: SEE PP.360–1 which vertical stripes are created by
alternating plain and purl stitches;
often used for socks and sweaters.

GLOSSARY 455

ROBE (a) For men, a formal garment ROULEAUX Narrow strips of fabric, RUSSIAN HAT A soft fur or astrakhan SAFARI JACKET A sturdy cotton
in medieval times, and later a often cut on the bias, first used as hat with a medium-high crown and jacket worn by Europeans in tropical
dressing gown; (b) for women, a trimming on dress hems, now used no brim; also called a Cossack hat or countries, with a belt, bellows
garment with an overdress that was for features such as spaghetti straps a Zhivago hat (after the hats worn pockets, and epaulettes.
open in front to show an underskirt. on dresses and underwear. by characters in the film Dr. Zhivago). 19TH CENTURY ▷: SEE P.448

MEDIEVAL–19TH CENTURY 19TH CENTURY ▷ S SAMPOT Uncut rectangular cloth
wrapped around the hips, sarong-
ROBE À L’ANGLAISE A robe with a ROULEAU LOOP Fabric loop that goes SABOT SLEEVE A sleeve with one style; worn by ethnic Khmer men
fitted bodice and an overskirt that over a round, ball-shaped button, or two puffs above the elbow. and women in Cambodia.
was open at the front; the skirt was serving as a closure. 9TH CENTURY: SEE PP.140–1 C.1ST CENTURY CE▷: SEE P.460
supported by panniers, and the box SEE P.436
pleats were stitched down to the SACK Originally a loose, informal SANDAL Shoe comprising a sole
small of the back; see also Mantua. ROUND DRESS/GOWN A term for a gown for women; later a dress with fastened to the foot by straps, used
18TH CENTURY: SEE PP.138–43 dress with a skirt that was closed at a more fitted body, a skirt open at around the world since earliest
the front rather than open, showing the front to show the underskirt, history, especially in hot climates;
ROBE À LA FRANÇAISE An elaborate, the underskirt. and long box pleats running down today sandals can be flat or heeled.
sumptuous dress worn in royal LATE -18TH–MID 19TH CENTURY the back; see also Robe à la française.
courts, comprising a tight-fitting ANTIQUITY ▷
bodice and ruffled sleeves, box ROUND-EARED CAP 17TH–18TH CENTURY
pleats running down the back, A soft, linen cap, SARI A long length of patterned
and a wide skirt supported by with a border SACK BACK A term for a dress with silk, cotton, or light synthetic fabric
oblong hoops. of ruffles or full-length box pleats running from worn by Indian women, pleated
1715–75: SEE PP.144–7 pleats, that the shoulders down the back; see around the waist, with the end
curved around the also Robe à la française. draped over one shoulder, and
ROBE DE STYLE A style of women’s face to the level of the ears a choli underneath.
dress with a loosely fitted bodice, and was tied on with strings. SACK DRESS A loose-fitting SEE PP.299, 462
slightly dropped waist, and full skirt knee-length dress, hanging
with panniers, associated with 1730S–1760S straight from the shoulder, SARONG A traditional Indonesian
French designer Jeanne Lanvin. created by Spanish designer garment comprising a length of
1920S: SEE PP.246–7 RUBEKA Length of cotton cloth, Cristóbal Balenciaga. patterned fabric worn around the
usually red and often plaid, worn by 1960 ▷: SEE P.329 waist and legs by both women and
ROCKER STYLE A youth style based the Maasai in East Africa; wrapped men; now also popular outside Asia
on biker outfits, featuring leather around the body like a cloak; also for casual and beachwear.
jackets, often embellished with called shúkà.
studs and badges, and scruffy jeans; SEE P.458
a contrast to mod style.
1950S ▷: SEE PP.344–5, 405 RUBENS HAT A woman’s hat with a SKIRTS
high crown and a wide brim turned
ROLL COLLAR A collar on a jacket up on one side; named for Flemish
or vest that folds over with no sharp painter Peter Paul Rubens.
crease, and has no notch between
it and the lapel. 1870S–1880S
1840 ▷: SEE P.368
RUCHING A sewing technique in
ROLLED HEM A very narrow hem which strips of fabric are gathered
made by folding a fabric edge two and then attached to a garment
or three times and then sewing as decoration.
through the folded cloth; used on
delicate items such as underwear RUFF A detachable pleated collar A-LINE SKIRT PENCIL SKIRT RA-RA SKIRT
and scarves. in linen and/or lace starched into
shape and sometimes supported
ROMANTIC DRESS A style that arose underneath; see also Pickadil.
in contrast to Neoclassical dress,
with a more curved shape for 1560S–1640S: SEE PP.98, 118–21
women, greater use of lace and frills,
and inspiration from medieval and RUFFLES Frills or flounces, often used GIBSON GIRL TULIP SKIRT
Renaissance styles; see also on collars, cuffs, and shirt fronts. SKIRT
Medici collar.
EARLY 19TH CENTURY: SEE PP.190–1 MID-16TH CENTURY ▷: SEE PP.132–3, 140–1

RUNNING STITCH The most simple
in-and-out stitch, often done in a
straight line.

456 REFERENCE

SASH A wide band or scarf of ribbon SLEEVES
or other soft fabric, worn around
the waist or over the shoulder.

16TH CENTURY ▷

Hijab SATEEN Cotton fabric woven with
a lustrous surface in weft-faced
Hendira satin weave.

Berber woman, Morocco SATIN A fabric with a satin weave, BISHOP SLEEVES CAP SLEEVES DOLMAN SLEEVES KIMONO SLEEVES
Hendira are traditionally worn by the in which warp threads are floated
Berbers as cloaks but are now popular with across several weft threads at a time
people in Morocco as rugs or blankets. (or vice versa); satin has a lustrous
They are sold widely by carpet dealers. surface and a dull underside.

Cowrie SEE P.463
shell
SATIN STITCH GIGOT SLEEVES PUFF SLEEVES RAGLAN SLEEVES SET-IN SLEEVES
headdress In embroidery,
a series of stitches
Haik side by side across
a shape, producing
Tuareg dancer, Morocco a smooth surface.
The nomadic Tuareg of North Africa are
known as the “blue people” for their S-BEND CORSET A corset with a wide northeast Mexico; became a SHEEPSKIN Treated sheep hides used
indigo clothing, as worn by this woman busk that pushed the bust forward national symbol after independence with the fleece on the inside and the
performing a guedra blessing dance. and the hips and bottom backward from Spain. skin on the outside; used for car
in an S shape. coats, and popular as part of the
C.1900–10: SEE PP.228, 432–3 18TH CENTURY ▷ hippy style; sheepskin with a fleece
of uniform depth is called shearling.
SCHENTI A knee-length linen SERGE A sturdy worsted fabric with
wrap like a kilt, worn by men a twill weave and diagonal ribbing, 20TH CENTURY ▷
in Ancient Egypt. made in different weights and types.
:C.2686–2181BCE SEE PP.16–17 SHIFT Until the 19th century,
MEDIEVAL ▷ a general term for a woman’s
SCOOP NECK A low, round neckline undershirt with long sleeves,
on a woman’s blouse or dress. SHALWAR KAMEEZ A traditional equivalent to a man’s shirt; made
1950S ▷: SEE PP.237, 338, 451 form of dress for Indian women, of linen; the poor used wool.
comprising the shalwar (loosely MEDIEVAL ▷: SEE PP.75, 80, 87
SEERSUCKER A lightweight, plain fitted pants) and kameez, a
or striped cotton or synthetic fabric, knee-length shift or tunic with SHIFT DRESS A short, sleeveless
with a puckered surface created by slits up the sides; often worn dress with a straight or slightly
warp threads of varying tension. with a dupatta. flared shape that skims the figure.
1960S ▷: SEE P.355
18TH CENTURY ▷ SHANTUNG A heavy, lustrous silk
or synthetic fabric, with slubs SHIRRING A technique in which
SELVEDGE The self-finished edge in the fibers giving a slightly parallel rows of tiny gathers are
of a length of woven fabric, created uneven texture. sewn into a garment, often using
by the weft threads being looped shirring elastic, to allow stretching
back into the fabric length; prevents 1870S ▷ of the area; see also Smocking.
the fabric from fraying or unraveling.
SEE PP.75, 446 SHAWL COLLAR A broad, softly SHIRTWAIST DRESS A classic dress
turned-down collar on a man’s coat style in which the bodice resembles
SEQUINS Small, shiny disks of metal or vest, tapering to the front with a man’s shirt, with a folded-down
or plastic sewn on to garments for no notch between it and the lapel; collar and revers.
decoration; see also Spangles. superseded by the roll collar. 1930S ▷: SEE PP.228, 317
1880S ▷: SEE PP.293, 361 1820S ▷: SEE P.439
SHOT SILK A silk fabric woven with
SERAPE Long, woven striped SHEATH DRESS A close-fitting dress different-colored warp and weft
blanket, worn over the shoulders; for women, knee-length or mid-calf threads to give an iridescent sheen.
originally used by horsemen in length, with darts at the bust and MID-19TH CENTURY ▷
waist to follow the figure.
1920S ▷: SEE P.323

GLOSSARY 457

SHRUG A cropped, short-sleeved SLIP A women’s light petticoat, SOLFERINO An aniline dye used uPhaphe
garment like a bolero, but knit. worn under dresses or skirts. to produce a fuchsia color.

EARLY 21ST CENTURY 20TH CENTURY ▷ 1860 ▷

SILK Fine, very long, lustrous SLIPPERS Lightweight, low-heeled SOMBRERO The Spanish term for umQhele
fibers from the cocoons of various shoes that can easily be slipped on a hat, typically referring in English
silkmoth species, notably the and off, often used for indoor wear. to a traditional Mexican hat with a
domestic silkmoth (Bombyx mori). wide, upturned brim and a slightly
16TH CENTURY ▷ pointed crown.

SILK HAT See Top hat. SLIP SHOES Low-heeled mules. SEE PP.121, 438
-16TH–MID 18TH CENTURY
SINGLE-BREASTED Men’s coat or SPAGHETTI STRAPS Very thin, light
jacket that closes at the center front SLIT POCKET A vertically cut pocket straps, often seen on women’s
with a single row of buttons; see in a man’s coat. sundresses, evening dresses,
also Double-breasted. and undergarments.
LATE 18TH CENTURY ▷: SEE PP.303, 447 19TH CENTURY
20TH CENTURY ▷
SKINHEAD STYLE A style originating SLOPPY JOE An oversized, loose-
among young working-class British fitting sweater. SPANDEX A trade name for a light, isiHlangu
people, featuring close-cropped hair, elastic fiber used in underwear and
suspenders, jeans, and Dr. (Doc) 1950S ▷ swimwear; see also Lycra®.
Martens boots.
LATE 1960S ▷: SEE P.405 SLOPS Very wide, loose knee 1958 ▷
breeches often worn by sailors.
SPANGLES Small disks or lozenges
LATE 16TH–18TH CENTURY of shiny metal with pierced centers,
sewn on to garments for decoration;
SKI PANTS Narrow-fitting pants with SLUBS Thickened, irregular areas in see also Sequins. Zulu warrior, South Africa
elastic straps under the insteps, silk fiber, often seen as an attractive The rank of a Zulu warrior is indicated
worn for skiing and as leisure wear. feature in silk fabrics. LATE 15TH–LATE 19TH CENTURY by the wearing of particular animal hides
20TH CENTURY: SEE P.346 and feathers. The leopard-skin umQhele
SMOCK A loose-fitting linen or SPANISH CLOAK Originally a short, headdress is worn by those of high status.
SKORT Wide-legged shorts with a cotton overgarment worn by hooded cloak for men; later a man’s
piece of fabric in front to give the laborers, often with a yoke and short evening cloak lined with Duku
appearance of a skirt. smocking patterns on the front; bright-colored silk.
adopted as informal dress
20TH CENTURY ▷ by women. 16TH–EARLY 20TH CENTURY
16TH CENTURY▷: SEE P.383
SLACKS Casual pants. SPANISH Wax blouse
SMOCKING A decorative technique FARTHINGALE and skirt set
1920S ▷ in which fabric is evenly gathered The earliest
(see Shirring) and a pattern stitched form of
SLASHES Decorative slits cut into the on top of the gathers. farthingale, a
surface of a garment so fabric from 1880 ▷: SEE PP.205, 228, 241, 413 garment that
an underlying garment can show or originated in
be pulled through; see also Puffs. SMOKING JACKET A short, single- Spain; made
1480S–1650S: SEE P.99 breasted or double-breasted jacket with a series
for men, often in velvet or silk and of hoops that
SLASH POCKET A pocket in a man’s lined with bright material, worn widened toward the feet,
coat, with a slit opening and no informally around the home. giving a funnel-shaped skirt.
covering flap.
19TH CENTURY: SEE P.453 1850S ▷ C.1520S–1620S: SEE PP.432–3

SLEEVE HAND The open end of a SNOOD (a) A fine mesh SPATS Cloth or leather coverings
sleeve, where the hand emerges. net worn by women for the uppers of men’s shoes,
to hold long hair or worn by the military and
SLEEVE HEAD The top of a sleeve, keep a hairstyle as formal wear.
where it is attached to the armscye. in place;
(b) a tubular 19TH–EARLY 20TH CENTURY: SEE PP.263, 442
SLING BACKS Women’s high-heeled scarf pulled
shoes with either open or closed over the head. SPECTATOR SHOES Men’s shoes, Ghanaian woman in typical dress
toes and with a strap around the 19TH CENTURY ▷: usually brogues, made from two Said to have been introduced to West
heel to hold them on. SEE P.197 different colors of leather, such Africa by European traders in the 19th
as tan and white. century, wax, or batik, is a textile used
1930S ▷ widely in West African traditional dress.
1934 ▷: SEE PP.298, 303, 333, 340

458 REFERENCE

Rubeka SPENCER (a) A short, double- STOLE A wide shawl or wrap of fur SUMPTUARY LEGISLATION Laws
breasted men’s jacket, often worn or luxury fabric, worn around the governing garments and fabrics
for country pursuits; (b) a short, shoulders by women. to be worn by (or forbidden for)
close-fitting, high-waisted jacket 19TH CENTURY ▷: SEE PP.170, 236, 401 specific levels of society, such
worn by women in the Regency as the law that only royalty could
era, over an Empire-line dress; (c) STOMACHER A stiff, triangular panel, wear ermine.
a wool or wool mix vest or thermal often heavily embroidered, worn
garment worn by women. over the chest and stomach, at MEDIEVAL–17TH CENTURY
the front of an open bodice.
18TH CENTURY ▷: SEE PP.171, 174, 187 15TH – 18TH CENTURY: SEE PP.138–9, SUPPORTASSE A decorated wire
framework worn at the back of the
SPUN SILK Yarn made from waste 145, 432–3 neck to support a ruff or a band; see
silk fiber, used to make fabrics, also Pickadil, Rebato, Underpropper.
embroidery silk, and ribbons. STONEWASHING A technique in C.1550–1650: SEE P.99
which a fabric such as denim is
LATE 19TH CENTURY ▷ artificially aged or distressed. SWALLOWTAIL A man’s tailcoat in
20TH CENTURY: SEE P.389 which the front part reaches to the
STACKED HEEL A heel made by waist and the back has knee-length
stacking thin layers of wood, STRAIGHT PANTS Pants for both men tails; still worn for highly formal
leather, or other material, or a and women, in which the legs are (“white tie”) events.
heel designed to look as if it the same width from hip to ankle. 19TH CENTURY ▷: SEE PP.262–3
has been made in this way.
19TH CENTURY ▷ SWEATER A loose-fitting knit
17TH CENTURY ▷ garment pulled on over the head;
STREET STYLE A term for styles usually informal or leisure wear.
Namuka STAND COLLAR An upright collar. created by young people for
19TH CENTURY ▷: SEE PP.155, 399, 439 themselves and later taken up by C.1890 ▷
fashion designers, for example,
Maasai man, Tanzania STAND-FALL COLLAR A collar that is beatnik, punk, or mod style. SWEETHEART NECKLINE On women’s
The Maasai live in Kenya and Tanzania and folded over, with the inner upright 1960S ▷: SEE PP.404–5 dresses, a wide neckline forming a
are well known for their distinctive dress of part called the “stand” and the curved V at the front, with the point
brightly colored, usually red, fabrics that downturned part called the “cape.” STYLE WIDTH at the center of the bust.
are draped around the body. A tailoring term 20TH CENTURY: SEE PP.326, 451
19TH CENTURY ▷: SEE P.439 for the horizontal
measurement SWING COAT A loose topcoat for
STARCH A substance used to from the center women that flares from the shoulders.
Hijab smooth and stiffen fabrics; most back seam
of a coat to 20TH CENTURY ▷
types are extracts from plants. the armhole.
T
14TH CENTURY ▷: SEE P.124 SUEDE Tanned leather with the flesh
side treated to give a nap, and used TABARD (a) A short overgarment
Thawb STAYS The precursor of the corset: with the napped side outward; often like a tunic, originally worn by
a tight undergarment for women, used for shoes and jackets. peasants, or a more elaborate
stiffened with whalebone, worn garment worn by a knight over
to give a fashionable shape; see 19TH CENTURY ▷ armor, and bearing the knight’s coat
also Busk. of arms; (b) a jerkin worn by a royal
SUGARLOAF HAT A hat with a high, officer of arms, and emblazoned
17TH–18TH CENTURY: SEE P.139 conical crown and a broad brim, with the arms of the sovereign; (c)
worn by both men and women. a loose, short-sleeved or open-sided
STILETTO HEELS High, narrow heels, 1640S: SEE PP.73, 123, 159 top for women, especially one used
often reinforced with steel, seen as a beach robe; (d) an open-sided
on women’s shoes. SUIT An outfit comprising a jacket protective garment worn by
with pants or a skirt of the same uniformed workers.
1954 ▷: SEE PP.388, 426–7 material, worn as business or formal ANTIQUITY ▷: SEE PP.39, 168
wear; some men’s suits also have a
STIRRUP PANTS Close-fitting, waistcoat; see also Lounge suit. TABBY A thick, glossy taffeta with
stretchy pants for women, with a watered surface (see Watered
the fabric forming a loop under 19TH CENTURY ▷ fabrics) giving a striped appearance.
the foot; see also Ski pants.
SUIT OF APPAREL A man’s outfit 17TH–EARLY 20TH CENTURY
Jordanian woman in traditional dress STOLA A full-length, sleeveless dress based on doublet and hose.
This woman wears a typical Muslim hijab placed over the tunica and under 16TH–17TH CENTURY: SEE PP.90–1
and a thawb. Dress in Jordan is distinctive the palla, and secured by brooches
for its elaborate use of embroidery, with and a belt; worn by married
each village having its own designs. Roman women.

:C.100BCE–300CE SEE PP.34–7

GLOSSARY 459

PANTS TAM O’SHANTER A round wool cap Loowuuz
with a pom-pom in the center, worn
traditionally by Scottish men, but
now more often worn by women.

1880S ▷

TANGO STYLE A style inspired by
the tango dancers of Argentina;
in Europe, it gave rise to women’s
fashions such as the tulip skirt, and
to shorter underwear that allowed
freedom of movement.

C.1913 ▷

TARTAN A traditional Scottish wool Deel
cloth with a twill weave, in which
BELL-BOTTOMS BOOT-CUT PANTS CAPRI PANTS stripes of different colors are
interwoven to form a specific pattern
of squares and bands called a sett;
see also Kilt.

SEE PP.197, 273, 442

TATTERSALL VEST A fancy vest Mongolian man in traditional dress
for men, with a checked pattern, Mongolian dress is ideal for the harsh
usually worn for country pursuits. cold of the steppes. The most common
materials are leather (especially sheepskin),
1895 ▷ fur, and wool felt from sheep or camels.

CIGARETTE PANTS DRAINPIPE PANTS PALAZZO PANTS TATTING
A decorative
technique in
which thread
is worked with
a needle or
shuttle to form a pattern of loops.

TABI Traditional Japanese ankle TAIL (a) The train of a wedding dress T-STRAP SHOES Women’s flat or Kimono
socks, with thick soles and a division or woman’s formal gown; (b) the heeled shoes with a central strip Obi
between the big toe and the other long rear skirt of a man’s dress coat; joining the vamp to an ankle strap.
toes so they can be worn with shoes see Tailcoat, Swallowtail, Morning 1930S ▷: SEE PP.273, 357, 426–7 Tabi
that have a strap between the toes. coat; (c) as “tails,” the term for Geisha, Japan
SEE P.459 a dress suit with tailcoat. TEDDY An item of lingerie that Japanese Geisha, female entertainers,
MEDIEVAL ▷: SEE PP.155, 185, 214 combines a bodice with a pair of regularly wear traditional Japanese dress,
TABLET WEAVING Weaving technique panties; called cami-knickers in including a kimono and an obi. The hair
for making bands, often patterned, TAILCOAT A formal coat for men the UK. is worn up with ornaments.
using a hole-punched tablet made in which the front is cut short and
from bone, bark, wood, metal, or the back has two long skirt pieces 1970S ▷
other material. called tails; see also Morning
coat, Swallowtail. TEDDY-BOY STYLE A style that
c.3RD–15TH CENTURY MID-19TH CENTURY ▷: SEE PP.262–3 developed among young men in the
UK, based on Edwardian fashions,
TACKING See Basting. TAILOR-MADE A term for garments and featuring knee-length jackets,
made by a tailor to fit a specific close-fitting drainpipe pants, and
TAFFETA A crisp, glossy fabric made person; in particular, garments for very thin string ties.
of silk or synthetic fiber, with a men or masculine-style clothing for 1950S: SEE PP.340–1, 404
shimmering luster; often used in ball women; see also Bespoke, Couture,
gowns and wedding dresses; see Haute couture, Made-to-measure. TENT DRESS A dress that is fitted at
also Nylon taffeta, Tabby. the shoulders and flares out to the
LATE 19TH CENTURY ▷ hem; attributed to Spanish designer
14TH CENTURY ▷ Cristóbal Balenciaga.

1951 ▷

460 REFERENCE

TEXTILE A term for any type of TOILE In dressmaking, a term for a TREWS Tartan hose worn by Scottish
woven cloth or any synthetic fabric prototype of a new garment design, men; later referred to tight-fitting
or thread. in an inexpensive fabric such as pants, usually worn by horse-riders
muslin, used to create the pattern and soldiers; from the Scottish
THAWB Ankle-length robe for the actual garment. Gaelic triubhas.
constructed like a collarless shirt
and worn by men and women in LATE 19TH CENTURY ▷ c.16TH CENTURY
Arab countries to keep covered
Lamchu and cool. TOP BOOTS An alternative, later TRICORN HAT A hat with a low
ANTIQUITY ▷: SEE P.458 name for jockey boots. crown and the brim turned up at
Hang pen 1680S ▷: SEE P.217 the back and sides to form a triangle;
THONG Skimpy underpants, with worn by both men and women.
Dao girl, Northern Vietnam a narrow back that exposes the TOPCOAT A man’s outdoor coat worn 1690–LATE 18TH CENTURY: SEE PP.136–7, 151, 157
The Dao are an ethnic minority living buttocks, worn to give a smooth line over a suit; usually knee length, and
in China, Vietnam, and Thailand. They under clothes; see also G-string. made of lightweight fabric. TRICOT A fine, knit, ribbed fabric
produce fine textiles of embroidered batik 18TH CENTURY ▷: SEE P.184 of wool or synthetic fiber, made on
silk, frequently in geometric patterns. C.1975 ▷ a special tricot machine; often used
TOP HAT A man’s hat with a tall, for women’s undergarments.
Av pak THREE-PIECE SUIT A term for a flat-topped crown, a narrow brim
lounge suit comprising a jacket, turned up at the sides, and a 19TH CENTURY ▷
Sampot pants, and vest. covering of black silk plush; worn for
formal occasions (see also Gibus hat). TRILBY A man’s soft felt hat, usually
Khmer Apsara dancer, Cambodia 20TH CENTURY 19TH CENTURY ▷: SEE PP.210–11, 262–3 black, with a dent along the crown,
The Khmer sampot dates back thousands and a narrow, flexible brim; named
of years and is made of silk using a TICKET POCKET A small pocket just TOQUE A close-fitting, brimless hat; after the novel and play of the same
unique, uneven twill technique. Ikat is a above the right front pocket on a particularly fashionable for women name; see also Homburg.
traditional method to create the patterns. man’s jacket or coat, originally in the 1920s. 1895 ▷: SEE P283
designed to hold train tickets. 20TH CENTURY ▷: SEE P.175
LATE 1850S ▷: SEE P.453 TRUNK-HOSE Puffed-out breeches
TOURNURE The French word for a forming the top part of men’s
TIE-DYE A traditional technique in bustle, used by the English in polite hose, extending from the waist
Africa and Asia, in which fabric is society (as the word “bustle” was to the tops of the thighs,
tied at several points and then dyed; thought to be vulgar). to join the stockings.
the ties keep the dye from reaching C.1550–1610: SEE PP.90–1, 101
the cloth, thus forming a pattern 1880S
against the colored areas; see also T-SHIRT A short-sleeved, round-
Batik, Hippy style. TRAIN An elongation of the back necked cotton shirt, originally worn
of a dress or cloak so that the fabric as an undershirt by US servicemen
TIERS Overlapping layered ruffles trails on the ground; still seen in in World War II but has since become
or flounces on a garment. costumes for ceremonial occasions, globally popular as leisure wear for
1850S ▷: SEE PP.205, 207, 405 and as a feature on wedding dresses. both men and women.
MEDIEVAL ▷: SEE PP.200–6
TIPPET A narrow -MID 20TH CENTURY ▷: SEE P.345
wrap, often of fur,
worn around a TRAPEZE LINE A TUBE TOP A cropped, sleeveless,
woman’s shoulders, term for full-skirted, and shoulderless top for women
with the ends knee-length dresses that wraps like a tube around the
hanging down that flared out from torso, and usually fits tightly around
in front. fitted shoulders, with the bust so that it stays in place.
16TH CENTURY ▷: SEE PP.56, 64 petticoats underneath
to produce a rigid 1970S ▷
TOGA A garment worn by male triangular outline.
Roman citizens, comprising a TUCK A stitched fold of fabric used
semicircular piece of wool cloth 1958: SEE P.381 to shape a garment or for decoration.
draped round the body.
:C.100BCE–300CE SEE PP.34–5 TRENCH COAT A knee-length or long TUCKER A piece of white
coat made from waterproof cotton fabric, such as lace or
TOGGLE A short, often cylindrical, or wool, with a belt and sometimes lawn, added to the
bar pushed through a loop to fasten caped shoulders; first used by the neckline of a bodice
a garment such as a duffle coat. military in World War I, it became on a low-cut dress;
popular after featuring in films such known as a
20TH CENTURY ▷ as Casablanca; see also Gabardine. “modesty piece.”

20TH CENTURY ▷: SEE PP.238, 280, 291 18TH–19TH CENTURY

GLOSSARY 461

TULIP SKIRT A wraparound skirt TWILL A type of weave with a also called a supportasse.
with cross-over panels at the front pattern of diagonal ribs, formed 16TH CENTURY: SEE P.99
that curve down from the waist, when weft thread crosses over one
forming an inverted V at the front or more warp threads and under UNISEX CLOTHING Garments that
hem; a feature of tango style. two or more in a stepped fashion; can equally well be worn by
20TH CENTURY ▷: SEE P.457 also a fabric woven in this way. men or women, such as jeans
SEE P.463 and T-shirts.
TULLE A delicate net fabric made 1960S ▷: SEE P.359
from silk or synthetic fibers, often TWINSET A matching set of a light,
starched to add structure, and used sleeveless sweater and cardigan in UTILITY CLOTHING A plan brought
for bridal veils and stiff petticoats. the same fabric, usually knit in by the British government
wool, worn by women. during the period of austerity
18TH CENTURY ▷ caused by World War II, in which
a limited range of clothes
TUNIC A loose garment of varying 1920S ▷ was produced in styles that Cheongsam
lengths, either sleeved or sleeveless, economized on the use of
worn over a shirt and pants or TYRIAN PURPLE Natural deep fabric and notions. Chinese woman wearing a cheongsam
leggings, and usually made of wool purple dye obtained from the 1941–51: SEE PP.304–5 The cheongsam (or qipao) is a style that
or linen; worn from Ancient Greek Murex mollusk; prized by ancient originated in Shanghai in the 1920s. It was
and Roman to medieval times. Phoenicians, Greeks, and Romans V based on an old, loose-fitting style that
for its resistance to fading; was modified under European influence.
TUNICA A basic, T-shaped garment expensive status symbol. VAMP The front part of the upper
for both sexes in Ancient Rome, knee ANTIQUITY: SEE PP.38–9 on a shoe, covering the toes. Jeogori
length for men and full length with
long sleeves for women (see also TYROLEAN COSTUME Fashion VANDYKING A decorative border Chima
Dalmatic). inspired by traditional Austrian of fabric or lace, with a series
:C.100BCE–300CE SEE PP.34–7 dress, such as embroidered of V-shaped points, used as Korean woman in traditional dress
blouses and Tyrolean hats. trimming on a garment; named Women’s hanbok, or traditional dress,
after 17th-century styles painted in Korea consists of a long-sleeved blouse,
TUNIC DRESS A short dress worn 1930S ▷: SEE PP.273, 299 by Paul van Dyk. or jeogori, and a long, full skirt, called
over a hobble skirt in the early 20th 1750S ▷: SEE PP.174, 179 a chima, worn with an underskirt.
century, or a short, loose dress worn TYROLEAN HAT A felt hat similar
over pants from the 1960s. to a fedora, with a tapering crown, VARIEGATED Term describing fabric
a brim turned up at the sides, that has streaks, marks, or patches
20TH CENTURY ▷ and a feather cockade on one of various colors.
side; often moss green in color.
TURBAN (a) A headdress made by 1860S ▷: SEE P.446 VELOUR A smooth plush fabric
wrapping a long piece of cloth made of cotton, wool, or
around the head, used by men in U synthetic fiber, like velvet but
Middle-Eastern, Asian, and Islamic with a shorter pile.
areas; (b) a woman’s hat made to UGG BOOTS
look like a turban. Traditional 19TH CENTURY ▷
LATE 18TH CENTURY ▷: SEE PP.112–13, 190–1, 171 Australian soft
sheepskin VELVET A silk or synthetic fabric
TURTLENECK A sweater with a boots, with a short, dense pile, formed
close-fitting, turned-down collar; originally worn by weaving an extra set of looped
known as a polo-neck in the UK. by sheep-farm warp threads into the fabric and
EARLY 20TH CENTURY ▷: SEE PP.280, 352, 421 workers and as utility slippers; later then cutting them level, to give
popularized by surfers in the US to a soft, lustrous surface.
TUSSORE SILK A silk made from the become a global fashion.
cocoons of wild silkworms, and MEDIEVAL ▷
beige or light brown in its undyed EARLY 20TH CENTURY ▷
state; also known as Tussah silk.

17TH CENTURY ▷ ULSTER A long, double-breasted
overcoat for men, made of Donegal
TUXEDO See Dinner jacket. tweed, with a half or full belt.

TWEED A rough wool cloth 1869 ▷
originating in Scotland, in a plain
or twill weave, sometimes with a UNDERPROPPER Wired frame
checked or herringbone pattern. designed to support an Elizabethan
1825 ▷: SEE PP.217, 284–5 ruff; tied to the inside of the bodice;

462 REFERENCE

VELVETEEN A fabric made to imitate coat; today a vest; sleeveless WEDGE-SOLED SHOES High-heeled
velvet, with a silk pile on a cotton garment worn with a coat or jacket shoes popularized by Italian designer
ground, or made entirely of cotton. on formal occasions, or as a Salvatore Ferragamo, in which the
decorative feature. sole forms one triangular piece,
LATE 18TH CENTURY ▷ 16TH CENTURY ▷: SEE PP.151, 155, 210 often made of cork, wood, or plastic.
1930S ▷: SEE PP.305, 376
Choli VENETIANS Breeches that were WAIST SEAM The seam running
usually widest at the hips and around the center of a formal coat or WEFT The horizontal threads
sometimes padded with bombast, dress, joining the body to the skirts. that are interlaced with the warp
and narrowed toward the knees. as a cloth is being woven, and
C.1570–1620: SEE P.105 WARP The long threads running which create the crosswise grain
vertically on a loom, parallel to the in a fabric.
VENT A vertical slit partway up selvedge, creating the lengthwise
the side or back seam of a coat or grain of woven fabric; see also Weft. WELT (a) In shoe making, a strip
jacket to give ease of movement. of leather or other material sewn
WATERED FABRICS A term for fabrics around the border between the
15TH CENTURY ▷ that have a rippled pattern like a upper and insole, to which the sole
watermark on the surface, made by is attached; (b) a strengthened or
Sari applying heat, moisture, and raised border on a garment.
pressure; see Tabby, Moiré finish.
VEST Another name for waistcoat. WHALEBONE Flexible cartilaginous
19TH CENTURY ▷: SEE P.413 WATTEAU PLEATS A revival of the material (baleen) from the upper jaw
18th-century sack back style, named of a whale, used for boning in stays,
Woman in Indian dress VESTMENTS Robe or gown worn for the dresses seen in paintings corsets, and bodices.
Despite the variety in women’s traditional to signify rank; worn by clerics by 18th-century French artist
dress in India, the sari is the most of the Christian Church and Jean-Antoine Watteau. MEDIEVAL–20TH CENTURY
widespread garment. Each region’s sari others conducting services; C.1850–EARLY 20TH CENTURY: SEE P.117
has its own draping style and material. based on everyday clothing WHEEL FARTHINGALE
of the 1st century CE. WEAVE A term for the way in which A wheel-shaped farthingale that
MEDIEVAL ▷: SEE PP.56–7 the warp and weft are interwoven in fit around the waist, often tilted
a cloth; the basic types are plain (one up at the back, and
VINTAGE CLOTHING Garments and weft thread crossing over one warp extended the skirts
accessories from previous eras, and under the next), twill, and satin. of a dress to form
obtained for wearing or display, a cylinder shape.
or collected as memorabilia. WEDDING DRESS The bride’s dress,
LATE 20TH CENTURY ▷: SEE PP.412–3 typically white (made popular by the 1580–1620S
wedding of Queen Victoria in Britain
VISCOSE Another name for rayon. in 1840); styles have usually been the WHITE WORK A term
“best dress” for the era, or, more for any kind of embroidery using
20TH CENTURY ▷ recently, evening or Victorian-style white or undyed thread on a
dresses, or unusual styles and colors background of the same
Kurta VOILE A sheer, lightweight fabric (such as pink). color, such as broderie anglaise.
with a crisp surface finish, mainly 19TH CENTURY ▷: SEE PP.189, 200, 320–1
made of cotton but also made of WIG A headdress made of human or
silk or synthetic fibers. WEDDING SUIT The groom’s formal suit; artificial hair, worn to conceal
an outfit of morning coat with striped baldness or for decoration; wigs
1885 ▷ pants, vest, and pale top hat became became a particular feature of dress
popular around 1920; a tuxedo is now in the 17th and 18th centuries, such
VOLANT A small frill or more common formal wedding wear. as the full-bottomed wig worn by
flounce with wavy English King Charles II.
edges, used as 19TH CENTURY ▷ ANTIQUITY ▷: SEE PP.136–7, 150–3
trimming.
WEDDING VEIL The bridal veil, made WIMPLE A veil worn by medieval
19TH CENTURY ▷ popular after the British Queen women, covering the head, neck
Victoria wore a long lace veil for and sides of the face; later adopted
WDhoti her wedding in 1840; 20th-century by nurses and nuns.
WAISTBAND The band encircling veils were often made of tulle, and 13TH CENTURY ▷: SEE P.158
Jutti the waist at the top of lower- various styles were adopted, but
body garments such as pants many reached to the waist or below. WINDSOR KNOT A way of tying
Man from West Bengal, India and skirts. 19TH CENTURY ▷: SEE PP.200, 413 a necktie in which the wider end
The kurta and dhoti combination is a of the tie is wrapped around the
traditional men’s dress worn in many parts WAISTCOAT Formerly a waist-length
of India, mostly for festivals. The style of undercoat worn with a doublet or
draping the dhoti varies across regions.

GLOSSARY 463

WEAVES YUKATA An informal type of kimono,
usually made of cotton and worn in
summer, or worn as a covering at
public baths.

Z Lei

PLAIN WEAVE SATIN WEAVE TWILL WEAVE ZAZOU STYLE The French version of
the zoot suit, but worn with narrow
rather than baggy pants.

1940S ▷: SEE P.302

narrower end and passed through Diane von Furstenberg, the ZOOT SUIT A suit Grass skirt
the neck loop twice, producing a “wrap dress,” wrapped around comprising
wide, symmetrical, triangular knot. the body and tied with a belt of high-waisted, Hula dancer, Hawaii, US
20TH CENTURY ▷: SEE P.286 the same fabric. wide-legged pants This dancer wears the traditional Hawaiian
1950S ▷: SEE PP.323, 345 tapered at the lei and grass skirt. The giving and wearing
WING COLLAR A stand collar on ankle, and a long of lei can have many meanings, often
which the two points are bent X, Y jacket with wide symbolizing respect, affection, or rank.
outward; still worn by men on shoulders and
formal occasions. YARMULKE A Yiddish word for the lapels; introduced Ta moko
19TH CENTURY ▷: SEE PP.225, 289, 439 skull-cap (called a kippah in Hebrew) by Mexican-
worn by male Orthodox Jews at all Americans and Piupiu
WINKLEPICKERS A style of shoe times, and by other male Jews during popular with
or boot with very long, pointed toes, prayer and on religious occasions. African-Americans Maori warrior, New Zealand
worn by both men and women, for and rebellious The main elements of Maori men’s
example as part of the mod style. TRADITIONAL youth. dress are the piupiu flax skirt and ta
1930S–1950S: SEE P.341 moko traditional tattooing. Each tattoo
1950S ▷ YARN Natural or synthetic fibers spun represents the wearer’s ancestry or tribe.
and twisted to make a thread for ZOUAVE JACKET A woman’s jacket of
WOGGLE A loop or ring of wood, weaving or knitting. velvet or silk with an open front that
leather, or cord, through which the curved diagonally from the neck;
ends of a neckerchief are threaded; Y-LINE A fashion created by French named for the Algerian Zouave troops
most typically worn by Boy Scouts designer Christian Dior, which of the French army.
and Girl Guides. featured dramatic necklines and
shoulder details that drew attention LATE 19TH CENTURY
1930S ▷ to the upper body; see also A-line.
1955: SEE P.319
WOOL Fiber collected from the
fleece of sheep and similar YOUTHQUAKE A term coined by
domesticated animals, which has Vogue magazine editor Diana
been used for thousands of years Vreeland to describe the impact
to make a variety of fabrics, and of youth culture on 1960s fashion,
usually knit, woven, or matted to and particularly linked to style icons
make felt. such as teenage model Twiggy and
young designers Mary Quant and
WORSTED A yarn made from long Betsey Johnson; see Mod style,
strands of wool or other fibers that Miniskirt, Shift dress.
are combed (see Combing) and
tightly twisted to make a smooth, 1960S: SEE PP.361, 354–7
woven fabric; or smooth fabric made
from these yarns. YOKE A fitted piece from which
lower parts of a garment hang,
MEDIEVAL ▷ encircling the neck and shoulders
on a shirt or coat, or encircling the
WRAPAROUND Any garment that waist on some types of skirt.
is wrapped around the body and
tied on, such as a sarong; also a
classic dress by American designer

464 INDEX

INDEX back medieval 48, 52, 65 (1920s) 241, 252
low 270, 274, 275, 363 Sassanid 31
Entries or page numbers in bold Anderson, J.W. 421 V-shaped 256, 293 Sumerian 15 (1930s) 273, 283
type refer to chapter headings, androgenous look 354, 407 Viking 47 (1970s) 381
features, or boxes. Angels and Bermans 419 bags bearskin 178 (1980s) 397
Anglo-Saxons 29, 40, 44, 48, 49 200 years of 430–1 Beastie Boys 406 Chanel 249
A Anglomania collection (Westwood) (1970s) 382 Beatlemania 315, 366 cross-over front 272
alforias 121 The Beatles 315, 366, 369 early 20th-century 228, 230, 231,
Abercrombie & Fitch 239 390 backpacks 431 “beatnik” collection (Saint Laurent)
Aboularia, Bress 347 animal skins 363 clutch 251, 252, 272, 341, 361, 240, 241
abstract expressionism 334 The Animals 366 363, 430, 431 371 jabot 373
academic dress 56 Anjou, Geoffrey of 69 designer 413, 431 Beaton, Cecil 278, 294, 324–5, 367 lace 397
Academy Awards 416–17 Ankhesenamun 17 Eton bag 353 Beats 344 middies 241
accessories Anna of Austria, Queen of Spain 94 evening 363, 430 beaver fur 106, 123, 128, 163, 184, peasant style 412
Anne of Denmark 95, 98, 121 Fendi Baguette 387 pleated 206, 228
(1901–14) men’s 224 Anne, Electress of Saxony 95 gilt-chained 249 185, 186 ruffled 397
(1950s) 327, 339 Anne Marie of Paris 294 Gladstone 166 Beckham, Victoria 420 see through 371
(1960s) 361 antibourgeois style 393 handbags (1920s) 253 Beene, Geoffrey 351, 363 slipover 241
(1970s) 382 anoraks 343 handbags (1950s) 334 beggar look 403 three-quarter sleeve 345
beach (1950–61) 337 antifashion handbags (1960s) 353, 363 beige, craze for 249 tunic 372
Etruscan 32 it-bags 387 Belgium 410, 411 Blow, Isabella 419
fur 332 (1900–20) 236–7 Lucite box 363, 430 Blue Bell Overall Company 345
medieval 64, 72 (1960s) 373, 374 Ronay bag 353 La Belle Epoque and the Jazz Age blue dyes and pigments 38, 39, 56
neoclassical 168 (1990s) 389, 410 shoulder 299, 382 (1901–28) 220–267 boas, feather 291
Renaissance 94 Antonia dress (1950s) 326 surrealist 294 Bobergh, Otto 199
surrealist 294 appliqué 180, 181, 190, 207, 246, tote 350, 430, 431 time line 222–3 bobo (bourgeois-bohème) 412
Victorian 192 Bellini, Gentile 112 bodgies 344
see also bags; shoes 247, 293, 295, 374 Bailey, David 350 Bellville 199 bodices
Acid House music 406, 407 aprons Baker, Josephine 223, 250, 290 belts arched 95
acrylic 360, 383 Bakst, Léon 245 asymmetrical 233
Adam Ant 406 fancy 191 baldricks 130, 131 (1920s) 250, 251, 257 back-closure 178
Adams III, Charles Francis 263 flouncy 147 Balenciaga, Cristóbal 271, 310, (1930s) 285, 286 bandagelike 410
Adelaide, Queen 188 medieval 56 (1960s) 356 boned 124, 125, 132, 133, 142,
Adele 331 Minoan 21 311, 314, 316, 325, 326, chain 382
Adidas 389, 406, 407 mock 191 328–9, 330, 352 fringed 257 179, 196, 203, 206, 322, 323,
Adrian, Gilbert 270, 275, 282, Renaissance 86 ball dresses/gowns Greek 24 325, 432
Aquascutum 182, 216 (1810s) 175 half-belts 319 bosom-enhancing 149
295, 306, 308 Aquitaine 53 (1830s) 181, 190 medieval 46 butterfly-shaped 190
advertising campaigns 415 Arabic calligraphy 59 (1880–8) 205 Minoan 20, 21 corset 138, 293
Aegina 20, 29 Arbeitsanzug 266 Charles Worth 199 Regency 187 cross-over 327, 334
Aelfgyfu-Emma, Queen 48 archery 68, 187, 214, 231 denim 395 tasseled cord 179 cross-over drape 322
aero-sports 280 Ariadne, Empress 36 Ballets Russes 243, 244, 245 tie 379 cuirasse 200
aerobics craze 388 Armani, Giorgio 351, 384, 396, 415 Balmain, Pierre 311, 319, 322, tied 332, 333 curved 98, 192
Aesthetic movement 213, 214 armholes 323, 325, 326 wide 227 Elizabethan-style 218
Africa, inspiration from 158, 244, body-lengthening 364 bandeaus 169, 171, 180, 256, 291 Women’s Legion 301 elongated 98, 99
close-fitting 62 bands, linear 94, 95 Beneš, Eduard 303 front-closure 133, 138, 197
371 cutaway 361 Banton, Travis 270, 293, 306 Benito, Edouard 267 gathered 174
African collection (Saint Laurent) 371 deep 70, 71 Bar Suit (1947) 316 Bergdorf Goodman 326 laced, corset-style 168
African-Americans 340, 341 natural opening 41 barathea 299 bergère style 200, 219 layered, scalloped 323
Afro-Caribbean influences 341, armor barbette 55, 60, 61 Bergfalter pattern 236 long-line 206
ancient world 13, 15, 28–9, Barbie 315, 403 Bergman, Ingrid 332 open-fronted, tight-waisted 20,
374, 406 Barclay 264 Berketex 304 21, 23
afternoon dresses 171, 179, 189, 34, 424 Bardot, Brigitte 336, 337 Berliner chic (1917–35) 290-1 peekaboo 327
medieval 68–9 Bernard of Clairvaux 55 pleated 75, 188, 189
207, 423 Renaissance 92–3 Baroque and Rococo (1625–1789) Berry, Halle 416 pointed 86, 94, 97, 98, 103, 135
A.G. Spalding and Brothers 230 see also military dress 114–163 Bertin, Rose 149 reinforced 204
Agamemnon, King 24 Army and Navy Stores 217 besagaw 92, 93 sleeveless 261
aiglets 71, 94 army surplus 412 time line 116–17 Besson, Luc 395 smocked 205
aigrette 244 Arrow label 262 Barrel line (Balenciaga) 329 bevor 92 stiffened 86, 120, 138, 139,
Akhenaten 18 art deco 18, 223, 253, 259, 271, Barrie, J.M. 216 Beyazid II, Sultan 112 192, 319
Al-Andalus 58 Barton, Alix 276, 322 Biarritz 249 strapless 322, 323, 335
Alaïa, Azzedine 388, 392 364, 372, 382, 431 baseball wear 227 bias cut 65, 71, 274, 275, 278, sweetheart 326
Albermarle, Earl of 216 art nouveau 166, 236, 237, basketball 389 tabbed 124, 205
albs 57, 83 baskets 201, 431 306, 364 tightly-cut 66, 87, 202, 322
Alby, Pierre d’ 353 364, 367 basques 187 Biba 350, 354, 364–5, 373 tightly-waisted 146
Alcega, Juan de 105 Arthur, George K. 263 Bates, John 356, 359, 360, 380, 381 Biba Postal Boutique 364 undefined 362
Alfonso X of Spain 59 Arundel, Countess of 74 Bath 162 Bienen-Davis 430 waistcoat-style panels over 208
aljuba 58, 61 Ashley, Laura 350, 377 bathing caps 337 Big Biba 364 wraparound 323, 326
All Saints 388 Astaire, Fred 270, 286, 289 bathing suits/dresses see swimwear biker culture 390 body piercing 390, 404
allegorical themes 99, 108, 218 Astor, Lady Nancy 281 batua 159 bikinis bodysuits, stretch 388
Allen, Marit 360 astrakhan 272, 333 Bauhaus school 266 bog bodies, Danish 41
alligator skin 363, 431 asymmetry, dramatic 401, 410 Bayeux Tapestry 44, 49, 50–1, 68 1950–61 336, 337 Bogart, Humphrey 339
Almodavar, Pedro 395 Athenes 213 Bazaar (London) 315, 356 Roman 35 Bohan, Marc 319, 371
aloeswood 106 Atlantic City 261 beachwear bird-of-paradise feathers 363 boho (bohemian chic) 412–13, 423
aluminium mesh 393 Atwood, Brian 416 The Birds (McQueen) 419 boleros 297, 327, 329, 335, 396
Alvarez, Lily d’ 297 Augustus, Emperor 26 (1920–1929) 260–1, 265, 266, 267 Birkin, Jane 431 Boleyn, Anne 97
Amazonia 28 Austen, Jane 164, 173 (1930s) 280, 282 black Bolshevik Revolution 241
amber 47 austerity regulations, wartime 270, beads as design color 400, 401, Bonaparte, Napoleon see Napoleon,
Ambrosio, Alessandra 413 (1890s) 206 Emperor
American Designers’ Movement 308 302, 304, 310 (1910s) 245 403, 410 bondage 390
The American Look 308, 314 Austin Reed 298 (1920s) 244, 256, 257, 258, 259 dyes 38, 204 bonnets
Amies, Hardy 314, 330 Australia, youth 344 (1950s) 327 Puritan preference for 128 (1820s) 178
amulets 413 Austria 87, 89 (1960s) 362, 364 symbolism of 108 (1830s) 188, 193
Ancient Egypt 16–19 avant-garde designers, Japanese (1970s) 376 Black Bottom 256 (1840s) 193
(2000s) 417 blackout cloth 305 calash 146
The Ancient World (prehistory 400–1, 410 bugle 259 black work 109 with curlicue 188
to 600CE) 10–41 aventail 68 colored 232 Blades 368 feathered 170, 171, 428, 429
aviatrixes 280 coral 75, 106 Blahnik, Manolo 416, 426 fur 72
time line 12–13 Egyptian 16 Blass, Bill 381 motoring 230
And God Created Man (Gaultier) 395 B glass 47, 258, 277 blazers 216, 217, 282, 283 mourning 204
Andean cultures 28 wood 199 bliauts 52, 53, 55 Regency 175
Anderson & Sheppard 286, 419 baby-doll style 354 Beals, Jennifer 389 bling 384
Bacall, Lauren 332 beards Blois, Charles de 70
Bachelor Girl 255, 272 Byzantine 37, 59 bloomer playsuit (1942) 309
bloomers 167, 215, 230
blouses

INDEX 465

straw 168, 170, 193, 207, 219, 429 brandenburgs 175 loose (1670s) 132 feathered 92, 122, 170, 175, 204 Charleston 256
veiled 196 Brando, Marlon 315, 342–3, 344 McQueen 419 field service 299 chasubles 36, 57
wide-brimmed 192, 193 Brandt, Isabella 98 side (1950s) 322 flat 226, 227, 230, 264, 282, 302 chatelaines 231
Boothby, Dora 230 brassieres 223, 252, 270, 277, 316 soft 200–1 fontange 139 Chaucer, Geoffrey 45, 66
boot-hose tops 123 Westwood 390 garrison 298 cheerleading 347
boots cone 387, 392 bustline, high and prominent 319 Greek 24 La Chemise Lacoste 261
“Ammo” 299 worn on outside 390, 395 Butterfly dress (Dalí) 295 half-mourning 204 chemises 52, 171, 204, 228
ankle 61, 427 breast ornaments 121 butterfly spur leathers 122, 123 jeweled 97
basketball 389 breastplates 69, 119 buttonholes Jewish 45, 59 see also shirts
Biba 364 breeches false 184 jockey 217 chemises à la reines 149
biker 345, 412 (1635–49) 122–3 floral 224 lace 188 chemisettes 178, 200, 241
bucket-top 116, 119 (1685-1720) 136, 137 medieval 63, 64 linen 104, 105, 128, 129, 131 cheongsams 319
buttoned 240 (1720–70) 150, 151 buttons mail coifs 69 Chérie dress (1947) 316
cowboy 367, 413 (1770–89) 154, 156, 157 baroque and rococo 155 Marie Stuart undercap 179 chest padding 184, 185
cup top 122, 123 bathing 231 big and bold 329, 330 montero 131 Chesterfield, Lord 224
cycling 227 buckskin 163 decorative 136, 184, 228, 231, 241 muslin 178 chiffon 232, 234, 243, 256, 257,
desert 339 fall front 152, 155 emergence of 45, 60, 61 naval style 230
Dr. (Doc) Martens 404, 407, 412 fly front 217 fake 251 peaked 187, 227, 281, 283 258–9
folded down tops 119 knee bands 155 gilt 249 pillbox 58 children’s wear
French (1635–49) 122, 123 knee-length 30, 105, 129, 130, horn 227 Polish 103
funnel-topped 119, 129 knotted silk 91 riding 186 Puritan 129
go-go knee-high 352, 356, 361 131, 157, 219, 226 medieval 63, 71 skullcaps 56, 219 sportswear 163
gym 345 laced 136 Renaissance 91, 104, 105 small round 60, 83 Victorian era 192–3
Hessians 184 Land Army 298 Schiaparelli 297 small soft 73 China
high 238, 239 linen 162 sleeve 284 smoking 211 ancient 12, 13, 15, 30–1
hiking 227 medieval 45, 73 wartime restrictions on 304, 305 soft-crowned 187 dyes and pigments 39
hobnail style 413 mid-calf 118 Women’s Legion 301 with streamers 196 fashion market 415
knee-high 381 padded 104, 218 Byzantium 13, 36–7, 44, 46, 49, tweed 231 influence on fashion 213
lace trimmed 219 petticoat 104, 122, 130, 219 uniforms 238 chiton 24, 25, 33, 35, 278, 422
laced-up 230 Regency 173 58, 59, 112 with veiling 111 chlamys 24, 278
lattice cutwork 72 Renaissance 88, 89, 100, 101, influence on fashion 236 Viking 46 Choniates, Niketas 55
low-heeled lace-up 376 with visor 281 Choo, Jimmy 416, 426, 427
medieval 47, 57, 61 104, 105 C wool 104 chopines 79, 94, 111, 426
patent leather 262 riding 186, 282 cardigan jackets 249 chorister costume (1970s) 380
pirate 407, 413 short 105 Café Society collection cardigan suits 251 church textiles 57
pointed 32, 186, 238, 405 Stuart 118, 119 (Westwood) 390 cardigans Churchill, Winston 224
Renaissance 111, 113 Venetians or Polaks 103, 105 (1901–14) 226 Ciapella, Christina 320
riding 151, 153, 159, 184, 186, see also plus fours; trousers caftans see kaftans (1920s) 250 Cinderella (Cendrillon) 246
brial 52 calash 146 (1939–45) 304 circle cut 400, 401
282, 346 Britain Can Make It exhibition calce see hose (1950s) 344, 347 circlets 59, 60, 64
Roman 34, 35 Caldwell, Ray 227 (1970s) 380, 381 civil rights movement 374
skating 347 (1946) 310 Calloway, Cab 341 cape 400 Clairvaux, Bernard of 53
soft-leather 118 British Board of Trade 304, 305 Cambridge, Catherine, Duchess of Cardin, Pierre 315, 354, 356, 359, Clark, Ossie 351, 376, 377, 383
Stuart era 118, 119 brocade 44, 78, 81, 141, 326, 367 Clarks shoes 238, 280
suede 413 broderie anglaise 193 387, 397, 419 360, 361, 367, 372, 395 Classical Greece 24–7
thigh-high 371 Bronze Age 14, 15, 20–1, 41 camel leather 334 Carl Gustav of Sweden 116 classicism (1930-44) 276–9
top 217 brooches, shoulder 41 camisa/camisia see shirts Carnaby Street 359, 366, 368, 369 Clayton, Mme 308
turned down 151, 153, 156, 157 Browne, Thom 286 camisoles 228, 252 Carnival 108, 158 Cleopatra 12
two-tone 178 Brueghel the Elder, Pieter 110 Campbell, Naomi 409 Carolingian empire 47 Clifford, Camille 232
unisex 345, 400 Brummell, Beau 166, 182–3, 184, Canadian Women’s Army Corps Caron, Leslie 317 Clinton, Hilary 397
waterproof 187, 238 Carpaccio, Vittore 82–3
wellington 164, 405 368 (CWAC) 299 Carter, Margaret 320 The Cloakroom, Clifton Assembly
wide-topped 118, 119 brushing braid 203 canes 130, 132, 224, 225, 234, Cassini, Oleg 333 Rooms, 1817 (Sharples) 172–3
winklepicker ankle 339 Buchanan-Jardine, Sir John 288 cassocks 57
women’s (1870s) 201 buckles 261, 263, 368, 382 Castile 61 cloaks
women’s ankle 229 theatrical 290 Castillo, Antonio 323 (1560–90) 95, 100, 101
women’s wartime 238, 298 at neckline 352 canions 101, 122, 130 casual wear (1590–1624) 104, 105
see also shoes Baroque and Rococo 119, 155 capes (1635–49) 122, 123
borders, decorative 48 on belts 251, 273 (1890s) 206, 207 (1985–2010) 388–9 (1685–1720) 137
Bosch, Hieronymus 110, 111 closures 305 (1920s) 252 men’s (1930s) 282–3, 286 (1770–89) 156, 157
Boué sisters 247 on hats 184 (1930s) 276 women’s (1940s) 309 (1830s) 191
Bourgogne, Duchess of 138 on shoes 130, 131, 153, 157, 229 (1970s) 381 women’s (1950–60) 346–7 ancient 14, 35
Boussac, Marcel 319 budge (lambswool) 73 circular 61 women’s (1970s) 380–1 Byzantine 36
boutiques 359, 366, 369, 380 Buffalo Girls collection (Westwood) cloaks with 188 Catherine, St. 108 cashmere 393
vintage 412 on coats 332 celebrity culture 415 circular 59
Bow, Clara 255 390 feather 364 Céline 420, 421 Confucius 243
Bow Wow Wow 407 buffon kerchief 168, 186 Hussar 159 Celts 14, 28, 29 costume 219
Bowie, David 351, 364, 372, 383 bum rolls 433 integral 186 Cerda, Don Fernando de la 61 country-style 157
bowling wear 346 Burberry 216, 223, 230, 386 opera 181, 225 chain stores 335, 386 domino 158
bows Burgundy quilted 210 chainmail see mail early Victorian 193
at neck 215 samurai fire warden 400 chainse 53 Etruscan 32, 33
on blouses 380 medieval age 74 short, boxy 206 Chalayan, Hussein 243, 410 feathered 107
on breeches 130 Renaissance 80, 81, 85, 104 shoulder 64, 171 challis 192 fur-lined 106
on dresses 190, 241, 275 Burrows, Stephen 382 Stuart 118 Chanel, Coco 182, 222, 223, 243, Greek 24
on hats 228 Burton, Sarah 385, 419 see also cloaks; mantles hooded 138
pussy 197, 272, 305 bus conductors 239 Capezio 346 248–9, 250, 251, 255, 270, medieval 48, 55, 73
sash 329 Bus Stop 381 caps 275, 292, 293, 297, 385, 392 neoclassical 169
on shoes 130, 397 business suits (1450–1500) 84, 85 chaperons 72, 73, 128 Rococo 188
side 322 (1950s) 338 (1500–60) 88, 89 chapes 71 short 119
on sleeves 121, 193 Armani 396 (1560–90) 95, 100, 101 chaplets, perfumed 106 Stuart 119
The Boy Friend 354 busks 120, 179, 188, 190 (1590–1624) 104, 105 charades 218–19 toga-style 170
Boy George 407 bust bodices 228 (1800–09) 170 Charell, Eric 291 see also capes; mantles
braccas 40, 48, 49 bustier baker boy 382, 428 Charles I of England 116, 118, 119,
bracelets, matching wrist 178, 179 (1950s) 322, 344, 432 with bandeau edge 170 124, 125, 126, 128, 219 cloth-of-gold 44, 75, 106, 107
braces 285, 341, 345, 407 (1990s) 433 baretas 83 Charles II of England 116, 130, clothes sellers 136
braid 88, 94, 95, 130, 131, 136, cross-over drape 322 baseball 227, 406, 407 clubs
sequined 392 bathing 337 131, 132, 135, 138
177, 211 bustles brimmed 186 Charles II of the Franks 47 influence of 406
braies 57, 72 18th-century 149 calottes 131 Charles, Prince of Wales 386, 419 urban (1979–90) 406–7
brand names 415 19th-century 197, 199, 200–1, cloth 281, 283 Charles V of Spain 78 Cnut, King of Wessex 48
coifs 56, 60, 61, 128 Charles the Bold 85 coats
204–5, 209, 214, 215, 219, CWAC 299 Charles, Caroline 359 (1670–89) 154, 155, 156, 157
422, 433 evening 175 (1685–1720) 136, 137
(1950s) 323, 327, 329 (1720–70) 150–1
bustle pads (1930s) 188, 189 (1790–1839) 84–5
bustle skirt (1870s) 202–3
front 392

466 INDEX

(1939–45) women’s 299 collars Cooper, Stirling 373 Crawford, Cindy 408, 409 de’ Medici, Catherine 103
(1940s) 310, 311 (1625–35) 126 Copeland, Jo 295 Crawford, Joan 270, 292, 297, de’ Medici, Lorenzo 85
(1947–62) women’s 332–3 band 201 copes 57 de Villeneuve, Justin 354
Afghan 374 broad falling 120 coral 75, 106 306, 307 Dean, James 315, 343, 345
ancient Chinese 30 button down 239 Corbett, Jane 429 Creed, Charles 330 Deauville 223, 249, 261
beach (1950s) 336 cape 189, 204 cording 178, 193 crêpe de Chine 234, 250, 252 debutantes 199, 292
belted mac 356 circular, turned-down 380 corduroy 366, 424 crespinettes 64, 65 décolletage
belted Ulster 303 contrasting color 368 Corinthians 29 Cressy-Marcks, Violet 251
“British Warm” 238, 239 cross-over 334 cornettes 64 Crete 13, 20–3 (1590–1625) 98
chainmail 68, 69 cross-over fichu-style 201 coronation robes, medieval 59 cricket wear 162, 227 (1820s) 180
Chesterfield 263 decorative 16, 17, 36, 111 corsages 205, 251, 363 crin 192 (1890s) 206
coat dresses 356 detachable 272 corselets, external 20 crin lace 295 (1950s) 327
cocoon 243, 329 diaphanous 189 corsets 432–3 crinolette frames 214, 433 asymmetric 232
collarless 156 embroidered chiffon 252 crinolines 195, 196–7, 199, 390, 433 Edwardian era 232, 233
Cossack 238, 272 face-obscuring 411 17th-century 133 crochet 380 fake 229
cutaway frock 224, 263 falling band 104, 119 (1560–90) 94 crocodile skin, faux 363 heart-shaped 382
cutaway front 153, 186 flattened 381 abandonment of 236, 243 Cromwell, Oliver 116, 128, 129 low 133, 180, 233
cutaway skirts 156 folded 80, 81 back-closure 147, 200 croquet 214 plunging (1930s) 276
double-breasted 156, 157, 163, folded-over 151, 157 boned 190 cross-gender wear 371 Restoration 135
frilled 187 early 20th-century 228 cross-over style 396 Stuart 121, 126
182, 288, 310, 332, 357, 360 fur 238, 253, 272, 347 empire line 170 Crusades 45, 52, 55, 58, 59, 69 V-neck 275
dress 185, 262 gathered 87 flat-fronted 228 cuffs deconstructivism 403, 410, 420
duster 340 high 72, 73, 74, 90, 91, 206–7, French (1778–89) 146, 147 Defaka 332
frock 116, 150, 151, 152, 153, 208, 228, 229, 236, 237, 399 Gaultier 395 (1685–1720) 136 Delaunay, Sonia 266, 267
highwayman 369 getting into 171 (1720–70) 150 Demeter 15
156, 157, 163, 173, 184, 185, lace 79, 98, 118, 119, 120, 122, light sports 230 (1770–89) 155 Demeulemeester, Ann 410, 411
186, 211, 224, 225, 234, 262, 124, 219, 228, 229, 320, 321 McQueen 419 ancient Eastern 30 demobilization 302, 303
263, 333, 369, 424 linen 87, 128, 131 New Look 316 artificial 366 deodorants 256, 258, 281
fur 264, 315, 371 M-notch 185 sporting 214 boot sleeve 151 department stores 335
gabardine 357 narrow 368 steel-boned 204, 206, 432 decorative 31 deportment 204
greatcoats 184, 238 open 74, 95, 98, 99, 228, 253, straight-fronted 207, 222 deep 272, 377 Depression era 270, 272, 306
Indian embroidered 213 283, 369 strapless 190 embroidered 136
justaucorps 130, 424 oversized 353, 356, 381 wasp-waist 215 fur 244, 272, 333 Designer Decades (1980 onward)
justaucorps à brevet 137 padded 176 Westwood 390 lace 98, 104, 118, 122, 123, 124, 384–421
knee-length 130–1 pelerine 189 whalebone 149, 192
leather 129 Peter Pan 240, 250 worn on top 168 131, 137, 200, 201, 219 time line 386–5
long-skirted frock 173 pleated 237 costume dress long 87, 177 designer labels 378, 386, 415,
lounge 216, 303 pointed 129 1800–1900 218–19 marinière 201
military style 366 Prince of Wales or Windsor 286 Baroque and Rococo 158–9 non-stiffened shirt 286 420, 424
mini 346, 357, 360, 361 Regency upright 173 early-20th-century 243, 244, 245 notched 273 Desoye, E. 213
morning 210, 224, 234, 263, 288 removable 192, 197 Renaissance 108 padded 176, 177 Dessès, Jean 322
Norfolk 216 roll 184, 187 surrealist 294 ruffled 154 Deutsch, Roszika and Janszieka 246
opera 245 rollaway 329 costume balls 108 tight 48, 208 devil costumes 219
overcoats 157, 186, 211, 262 rounded 330 Côte d’Azur 260 trouser 302, 303 Devonshire House Ball 218
pea 319, 371 sailor’s 230, 241 cote-hardie 62–3, 64, 65, 74, 75 turned-back 87, 111, 130, 150, 229 Diablesse 219
pellote 58, 61 scallop-edge 118 Cotillard, Marion 417 cuirasses 29, 69, 93 diadems 244
pleated 90–1 scarflike 331 cotron 335 culottes 297, 346, 371 Diaghilev, Sergei 244
Puritan 129 sharp revers 361 cotton 168 Culture Club 407 diagonal cut 205
PVC Macintosh 361 shawl 245, 253, 272, 288, 333, 338 Couch & Hoskin 284 cummerbunds 215 Diamond, Michael 406
raincoats 297 shirt 253 Council of Fashion Designers of curls, hair 21, 25, 60, 61, 119, 123, diamonds 106, 256, 327
redingote 157, 178, 333 small falling 128 Diana, Princess of Wales 386, 393
reefer 303 soft 227, 265 America (CFDA) 385, 395, 419 124, 125, 132, 133, 147, 165, Diane 267
Regency 182 square 91 country dress 168, 169, 181 Dickens, Charles 165, 195, 219
Renaissance 111 stand 155 customization 374 dieting 276
Restoration 135 stand-away 319, 329, 416 (1837–1900) 216–17 cycling suits 215, 216, 227, 230 Dietrich, Marlene 270, 288, 290,
riding 162, 163, 178, 186, 282 stand-up 399 Baroque and Rococo 150, 151, Czechoslovakia 303
Saxon (mid-1600s) 90–1 standing 30, 121, 124, 184, 214, 297, 332
sheepskin 412 218, 272, 273, 352, 356, 360 156, 157, 162–3 D dinner suits
shooting 163 standing band 104 revival 405
side-pleated 156 starched 124, 211, 265 Courrèges, André 329, 350, 353, Dadaiste collection (Gaultier) 395 (1920s) 262
stiffened skirts 151 Staurt 120 dagging 72 (1930s) 289
surcoats 58, 60, 61, 64, 65, 68, 69 stiff 224, 225 356, 357, 359, 360, 361, 372 Daily Express 354, 355 (1940s) 289
swallow-tailed 182, 184 tab 286 court dress Daily Mirror 364 (1950s) 338
swing 333 turn-down 263 Dalí, Salvador 294, 295, 297 Dior, Christian 271, 314, 315, 316,
tail 155, 185, 224, 262, 289 turned-back 106, 184 (1720–70) 142, 143 dalmatikon 36, 37
tent-shaped 230 velvet 340, 341 (1770–89) 148–9, 153, 154–5 damask 45, 47, 66, 91, 208, 209, 317, 318–19, 322, 325, 326,
tied belts 332, 333 waterproof 216 (1790–1800) 169 327, 329, 331, 332, 338, 344,
top coats 184, 211 wing 211, 225, 226, 262, 289 (1810s) 175 232, 233 371, 415
trench coats 238, 273, 280, 291, see also ruffs (1820s) 180 dance crazes 222, 223, 258, 344, Dior Homme 371
303, 306, 332, 395, 411, 425 Elizabethan 97 Directoire Revival look 243
tuxedo-fronted 311 color French (1574–89) 102–3 406, 407 disco scene 371, 372, 383
Ulster 303 and status 34, 35, 38, 51, 55 French (1685–1720) 116, 137 dancewear, inspiration from 389 dogale 83
waterproof 186, 297, 356, 361 symbolism 38, 108 French (1852–70) 194–5 dandies Dolce and Gabbana 386
wide-skirted trench coats 291 Italian (1650s) 129 Dolly sisters 246, 250
wrap 231 Columbus, Christopher 78 Stuart 125, 126 (1770–89) 152–3 Dolores 429
wraparound style 253, 333 columnar silhouette 168, 237, 243, Tudor 86–9 (1790–1839) 164, 184–5 domino 158
cochineal 39, 106 courtly love 52, 53, 60, 61 (1960s) 368–9 Don Carlos of Spain 100
Cochrane, Eddie 344 326, 417 couters/cowters 69, 93 Beau Brummel 166, 182–3 doublets 118
cocked hats 123, 136, 137, combinations 204, 214, 215 couture houses, 21st-century 415 influence on fashion 412 (1300–80) 64, 70–1
139, 163 Comme des Garçons 400, 401, cover-ups, beach 336, 337 New Romantics 406, 407 (1380–1450) 72, 73
cocktail dresses Cowan, John 350 Renaissance 100, 103 (1450–1500) 83, 84, 85
(1920s) 199 402–3 Cragmile, Kate R. 208–9 Davies, Nigel see de Villeneuve, Justin (1500–60) 89, 90–1, 93, 94, 95
(1940s) 317 Commedia dell’Arte 108, 117, 158, 159 Cranach the Elder, Lucas 107 Davies, Sybil 300 (1560–90) 100, 104
(1950–8) 322–3 commodes 133, 139 cravat pins 217 day dresses (1590–1624) 104, 105
(1960s) 363 Commonwealth 116, 128 cravats (1837–55) 192–3, 422 (1625–35) 118, 119
Cocteau, Jean 294, 297 Conan Doyle, Sir Arthur 265 19th-century 210, 211 (1860s) 197 (1635–49) 122–3
codpieces 79, 88, 89, 90, 100, 101 Condé Nast, Mme 237 (1950s) 341 (1880s) 204, 205 (1649–60) 128, 129
coifs 56, 60, 61, 128 coney fur 73 Ascot 263 (1890s) 207 (1660–80) 130
mail 69 Connaught, Prince Arthur of 289 dandies 184, 185 (1900–14) 228, 229 deep basque 119
Colcombet, Charles 297 Constantinople 13, 36, 37, 112 early 20th-century 224, 230 (1920s) 252–3, 423 jacket-style 118
Cookman, Helen 309 lace 135, 137 (1945–55) 316, 317 leather 110, 111
Cooper, Gary 270, 286 Regency 173, 187 (1950s) 334, 335, 422 padded 69, 73, 118
Restoration 131 (1970s) Jean Muir classic 378–9 paned 118, 119
tiered 131 de Hooch, Pieter 128, 129 Saxon (mid-1600s) 90–1
de Jong, Piet 23 slashed 93, 119

INDEX 467

Stuart-style 219 feathered 245, 362, 363, 371, evening and tea gowns 232–3 (1930–44) 274–5, 276–7 flounces 142, 143, 146, 147, 191,
tabbed 118 417, 419 influence on fashion 292, 340, (1950s) 324–7 257, 327
Doucet, Jacques 215, 233, 243 (1960s) 361, 362–3
Drake, Francis 97 flapper 258–9 404, 407 (1970s) 382, 383 flower power 372, 374–5
drapery flat-chested 240, 241 life of leisure 234–5 (1980s) 392, 393 flowers
(600–1100) 46, 47, 48, 49 folk-style 252 Eglington Tournament 218 (2012) 420
(1100-1200) 52, 53, 56, 57, 59 halter-neck 377 Egypt, ancient 12, 13, 16–19, 28 eye makeup artificial 246, 247
(1200–1300) 57, 60, 61 house 334, 335 dyes and pigments 38, 39 (1960s) 353, 354, 373 embroidered 252
(1300–80) 59, 64 Japanese style (1973–2008) 400, influence on fashion 12, 18, 223, Egyptian 12, 13, 16, 18 in hair 174, 181
(1380–1450) 57 Minoan 20, 21 on hats 178, 189, 197, 252
(1450–1500) 81, 84 401 245, 257 eyelets 63, 71 silk 234
(1500–60) 86, 87 Jean Muir classic 378–9 Eldorado (Berlin) 290 eyelets, hand-punched 378, 379 Foale, Marion 350, 359
(1635–49) 124, 125 knee-length 230 Eleanor of Aquitaine 54–5 Fogarty, Anne 317
(1770–89) 156, 157 knit 400 élégantes 152 F folds, natural 84
(1870–1900) 200, 201, 204, 207, little black dress 249, 250, 322 Elephant dress (1945) 295 folksy style 412
long printed 1970–9 376–7 Elizabeth I of England 78, 96–7, 106, The Fair Nun Unmasked (Morland) Fonda, Jane 361, 388
214, 215 luncheon (1930s) 308 159 Fonteray, Jacques 361
(1900–20) 233, 236, 237, 241 maxi 376–7, 380 109, 162 Fonteyn, Margot 319
(1930s) 273, 274, 276–7, 278, 286, mini 350, 352–3, 356, 357, 360, Elizabeth II, Queen of Great Britain fancy backs 302 fops 152
fans Ford, Tom 286, 371, 425
291, 293 361, 362, 363, 383, 422 314, 315, 335 Fortuny, Mariano 222, 237, 245
(1940s) 332 modernism 267 Elizabeth, the Queen Mother 292 (1790–1800) 168 foulards 257
(1970s) 376, 401 morning 170, 175, 204 Elizabeth of Bavaria, Empress of (1800–9) 171 Four-Leaf Clover gown (1953) 327
(1980s) 393 mourning 178 (1820–30) 181 fox fur 73, 272, 291, 305
(1990s) 410, 411 neoclassicism 168–9 Austria 198 (1880s) 205 Foxton, Bruce 405
(2000s) 417, 420 New Look (1947–55) 316–17 Elizabethan age 94–7, 100–1, 109 (1900–14) 229 France
Byzantine 59 off-the-shoulder 180, 181 (1920s) 247, 291 (1778-89) 146–7
Chanel 249 peplos style 41 influence on fashion 178, 206, 392 Baroque and Rococo 132, 133 (1810s) 174, 175
cross-over (1930s) 294 pinafore 380, 381 Elle 354 Renaissance 94 (1820–30) 180, 181
Egyptian 18 Poiret evening (1910) 242–43 Ellis, Perry 351, 385, 412 fantasy, Renaissance 108–9 (1837-55) 192
empire lines (1800–9) 170–1 princess-line 319 Elton John 372 Farrin, Mary 380 (1870s) 201
English drape 286 prints and patterns 188–9 Emanuel, David and Elizabeth 393 farthingales 78, 120, 126, (1880s) 204
Etruscan 32, 33 promenade 189, 229 embonpoint 192 (1900–14) 228, 229
Greek 24–7 reception 208–9 embroidery 423, 433 (1914–23) 240, 241
New Look 325, 329 sack (1950s) 314, 329, 352 French 79, 98 (1940s) 302, 310, 311
Poiret 243 sack back 117, 143, 144–5, (1810s) 174, 175 Spanish 80, 86, 95 1950s couture gowns 326, 327
Roman 34–5, 48 (1820s) 179 Fashion Group International 403 Baroque and Rococo 116, 117,
drawers 146, 157 (1840–1900) 210, 206 fashion shoots 350, 409
early 19th-century 171 sheath 17, 293, 322, 323, 326, 327, (1910s) 245 Fassett, Kaffe 350 120, 123, 128, 130, 131, 132,
late 19th-century 201, 214 (1920s) 241, 244, 245, 246, Fath, Jacques 323 137, 138, 142, 143, 144–5,
medieval 57 410, 420 feathers 146–7, 148–9, 150, 151, 154–5,
dresses shift 352, 354, 361, 363, 410 257, 258 boas 291 156, 157, 160–1, 163
(1200–1300) 60–1 shirt 273, 423 (1930s) 274, 275, 277, 293, 295 on bonnets 170, 171, 428, 429 Christian Dior 318–19
(1625–35) 120–1 shirtwaisters 230, 231, 316, 317, (1950s) 327 on caps 92, 122, 170, 175, 204 costume dress 219
(1635–49) 124–5 (1960s and 1970s) 363, 372, 374 on ceremonial garments 28 Jean Paul Gaultier 394–5
(1820-30) 178–9 335 (2000s) 412, 416 on cloaks/capes 107, 364 medieval age 47, 49, 52, 53, 57,
(1830–37) 188–9 sleeveless 256–7, 352, 360, 361 ancient world 12, 30, 31 on dresses 245, 362, 363, 371, 61, 64, 69, 72, 74, 75
(1914–23) 240–1 slip-on 256, 257, 258, 308 Baroque and Rococo 136, 139, 143, New Look 316, 317, 322, 323
(1930s) 272, 273, 308–9 soft bustles (1870s) 200–1 417, 419 Renaissance 80, 81, 84, 86, 88,
2010 onward 420, 421 sports 214–15, 231, 309, 411 144, 145, 150, 151, 154–5 embroidered 295 89, 95, 99, 101, 102–3, 105,
A-line 62, 352, 356, 371, 376 strapless 322, 323, 326, 327, 390 Byzantine 13, 36, 37 on fans 247, 291 110, 111
afternoon 171, 179, 189, 207, 423 suede 378–9 chenille 169, 247 in hair 181, 233 Revolution 149
American ready-to-wear (1935–44) tank 411 Edwardian 232, 233 on hats 75, 93, 95, 107, 111, 131, robes de style (1920–9) 246–7
tea 232–3 Etruscan 33 Second Empire 194–5, 199
308–9 trapezoid 371 gold 257 136, 137, 153, 157, 171, 175, streamlined court suit (1780) 154–5
amphora 319 trouser 362 machine 372 178, 189, 206, 229, 234, 241, youth 302, 345
antifashion 1901–20 236–7 tunic 319 medieval 44, 49, 51, 52, 55, 57, 74 244, 330, 428, 429 Yves Saint Laurent 370–1
baby-doll 329, 354, 363 utility 304, 422 Ottoman 112 on headdresses 169, 179, 180, 190, see also Burgundy; Paris
ball 175, 181, 190, 199, 205, 395 wedding 60–1, 74, 94, 99, 189, Renaissance 79, 88, 94, 95, 99, 219, 244 François I of France 78
bandage 18 protective 28 Franks 46, 47
beach 336 193, 200, 230–1, 317, 360, 413 100, 101, 109 shoulder detail 382 Franz Joseph I, Emperor of Austria
boho chic and vintage (1990–2011) World War II 304–5 tambour-style 168 on skirts 246, 247, 290 227
see also gowns emeralds 106, 327 on turbans 112 Fratini, Gina 354
412, 413 dressing gowns fencing 347 Freed, Alan 314
for boys 192 padded 211 Empress Eugénie Surrounded by her Feragamo, Salvatore 416 freedom of movement 214
chainmail (1960s) 360 Restoration 131 Ladies in Waiting (Winterhalter) Ferdinand of Tirol, Archduke 89 Freeman, Gillian 343
chemise 156 dressmaking, home 188 194–5 Ferré, Gianfranco 319 French Riviera 260
cheongsams 319 Drian, Etienne 244 fez 113 Freud, Bella 364
clinging (1930s) 274, 275, 278 drugs engageantes 157, 197 fibulae 13, 34 Freud, Sigmund 294
coat 356 MDMA (ecstasy) 406 English Civil War 126, 129 fichu 163 frills
cocktail 199, 317, 322–3, 363 psychedelic 374 English cut 264 fichu-pelerine 178 (1960s) 363
corset 393 Duchamp, Marcel 297 English drape 286 Fifth Avenue 308 (1970s) 377
cote-hardie 62–3, 64, 65 Duff-Gordon, Lady Lucile 233, 234 Enlightenment 152 fillets 48, 49, 52, 60, 61, 64 Baroque and Rococo 147, 154
couture gowns (1950–7) 326–7 Dufy, Raoul 243 ensembles fin-de-siècle style 206 early Victorian 192
on crinolines 1856–69 196–7 Duncan, Isadora 222, 236, 237 Firebird (Stravinsky) 245 medieval 48
dance (1950s) 344 Duran Duran 407 knitwear 250, 251 Fish, Michael 367 New Romantics 390
day 192–3, 197, 204, 205, 207, Durant, Will 83 Renaissance 84, 88, 100, 101 fitness boom 388–9 fringes
dyes and pigments environmental issues 415 Fitz-Simon, Stephen 364 beaded 256
228, 229, 252–3, 316, 317, 334, ancient world 12, 18, 34, 38–9 epaulettes 180 Fitzroy, Augustus Henry, 3rd Duke on dresses 139, 180, 200, 201,
335, 378–9, 422, 423 medieval 56, 72 ermine 65, 78, 86, 87, 97, 192, of Grafton 153 257, 259, 274, 290
Delphos 222, 237 Renaissance 106 flamenco 329 hair 61, 123, 124, 205
dinner 179 synthetic 195, 204, 211 193 Flanders on jackets 374
draped jersey (1979) 401 Erté (Romain de Tirtoff) 243 lace-making 118, 124, 132 frock coats 116, 150, 151, 152, 153,
dream dresses 1935–45 294–5 E Estevez, Luis 326 medieval age 73, 74, 75 156, 157, 163, 173, 184, 185,
drop-waisted (1920s) 255 Estoile, Pierre de l’ 103 Renaissance 81, 87, 89, 95, 98, 186, 211, 224, 225, 234, 262,
dual-purpose (1820s) 179 Earhart, Amelia 280 Etampes, Duchesse de 86 108, 113 263, 333, 369, 424
Egyptian beaded 16 ebony 106 ethnic styles 374, 376, 412 flappers 18, 222, 223, 255, frogging 185, 205, 241
empire-line 174, 377 eco-fashion 413 Etruscans 28, 29, 32–3, 38 258–9, 354 Froitzheim, Otto 227
evening 171, 174, 175, 179, 180–1, Eden, Anthony 288 Eugénie, Empress 187, 194–5, 199 flaps, pleated 143 Fulton, Holy 420
190–1, 196, 199, 201, 205, 206, Edward III of England 45, 68 Evangelista, Linda 408, 409 fur
232–3, 258–9, 274–5, 276–7, Edward VII of Great Britain 224, 226, Evans, Sir Arthur 23 Flashdance 389 14th-century demand for 73
324–7, 361, 362–3, 382, 383, evening dresses/gowns flat-chested style 240, 241, 255
392, 393, 420 234, 339 Flöge, Emilie 237
Edward VIII of Great Britain 222, (1800–09) 171 Florence 81, 85
(1811–20) 174, 175
223, 271, 283, 284, 286–7, 288 (1820–30) 179, 180–1
Edwardian era (1830–37) 190–1
(1850s) 196
(1870s) 201
(1880s) 205
(1890s) 206
(1901–14) 232–3
(1920s) 199, 256–7, 258–9

468 INDEX

coats 264, 315, 332, 333, 371 From Glamour to Utility Grange, Harold “Red” 264 Greek 25 Cossack-style 311
collars 175, 238, 253, 267, (1930–47) 272–311 Grant, Cary 270 medieval 47, 49, 52, 55, 57, 60, costume 219
time line 268–269 greasers 404 creased crown (1950s) 339
272, 347 greaves 69 61, 64, 65, 73 crushed crown (1940) 304
cuffs 175, 244, 272, 333 glasses Greek Orthodoxy 58, 59 Minoan 20, 21, 32 curled brim 216
fake 353, 367, 382 horn-rimmed 265 Greeks, ancient 13, 24–7, 41 mohican 404 dandies 184–5
hats 123, 128 see also sunglasses mop top 367 derby 225, 265
linings 61, 65, 72, 73, 74, 80, 81, armor 28–9 mullet 383 draped 72, 238
Glastonbury 413 influence on fashion 12, 170, neoclassical 168, 169 feathered 75, 93, 95, 107, 111, 131,
86, 95, 106, 107, 112, 113 globalization 386, 387, 415 padded 146
muffs 168 gloves 213, 236, 237, 276–7, 278, permanent waves 272 136, 137, 153, 157, 175, 178,
“necklace” (1940) 305 392, 395, 417 pointed 99 189, 206, 229, 241, 244, 330
neckties 305 Baroque and Rococo 123 medieval 58 “pouf” 149 fedora 225, 303, 406, 412
shawls 252 buckskin 184 pigments and dyes 38 powdered 146, 152, 157 felt 131
trimming 64, 87, 97, 170, 175, cocktail 322 Renaissance 113 queue 152 fisherman’s 421
kid leather 169, 175, 201 green dyes and pigments 38, 39 Renaissance 95 floppy felt 364
243, 272, 346 long 229 Greenaway, Peter 395 Roman 34 fur 123, 128
wartime rationing 305 long evening 169, 171, 232, 362 Grès, Madame 276, 322 side parting 216 Garter 137
wraps 383 motoring 281 Greve, Wilhelm 212–13 spiked 405 halo 305
furbelows 139 Regency 173 gros de Naples 180 tocas de cabos 87 henin 158
Furness, Lord 289 Renaissance 94, 104 grosgrain 316, 322 tonsure 36, 44, 57 high felt cone 72
spiky gauntlets 272 Grumelli, Gian Gerolamo 101 top knot 125, 205, 206 high-crowned 129, 146, 311
G tabbed 120 grunge 387, 412, 420 victory roll 299 homburg 224, 264, 265, 288,
goatskin 178 Gucci 329, 363, 371, 415, 417, 419 World War II 298 289, 303, 338, 339
Gagelin, Maison (Paris) 199 godets 308 “guerilla” pop-up stores 403 half-mourning 204 hunting 163
Gainsborough, Thomas 157 Godfrey, Oscar 226 Guinness, Gloria 327 Hall, Jerry 409 jauntily angled 304, 306
gaiters Goethe, J.W. von 153, 157, 219 Gundestrup 29 Halston Frowick, Roy 351, 382 knit 380
going-away outfits 214, 251 gussets 70, 71 Hamnett, Katherine 413 Mandarin-style 31
canvas 299 gold 17 Han Dynasty 31 medieval 57, 72
cycling 215 gold thread 20, 36, 51, 55, 58, H Hand, Josef 431 military-style 366
leather 216, 217 handbags see bags Minoan 20, 21
motorcycle 226 59, 85, 94, 97, 98, 100, 361 H&M 385, 403 handkerchiefs opera 185
Gallenga, Maria 245 Golden Twenties (Berlin) 290 H. Huntsman & Sons 368 in breast pocket 211, 225, 286, Panama 265
Galliano, John 319, 387, 393, golf wear 162, 226, 231, 281, habit à la française 154–5 Parliamentarian 129
habits 338, 368 pillbox 306, 330
413, 416 283, 347 “buffon” 168, 186 porkpie 302, 339, 406
galloon 130, 131, 136, 162 gollars 86 1900–14 228 lace 118, 193, 197 Prince Charlie 162
Garbo, Greta 297, 306 Gone with the Wind (movie) 271, Regency sportswear 186, 187 medieval 45 race day 215
garçonne look 243, 252, 255, 354 women’s sportswear (1870–1900) mourning 178 Renaissance 111, 113
Gardner, Ava 332 292 Renaissance 94 riding 346
garters gorgets 119 214–15 Hanoverian era 136–43, 150–3, rolled brim 265
Gorringes 251 haik 18 Scotch bonnet 162
Baroque and Rococo 131, 137, gothic style 80, 81, 176, 179, haincelin 72 156–7, 168–91, 218–19 sea captain’s 280
153 haircombs 191 harem pants 243, 245, 367 shako 159, 174
190, 405 hairnets 60, 61, 95 Harlem Dancer 244 slouch 306
medieval 48 goths 384, 404, 405 hairpieces 229 Harlequin 158, 159 soft-brimmed 381
Renaissance 104, 105 gowns hairstyles Harlow, Jean 270, 275, 306 sombrero 121
women’s (1900–16) 230 Harper’s Bazaar 294, 311, 316, 319 Spanish-style 61
Garthwaite, Anna Maria 116, 117 (1100–1200) 52, 53 (1450–1500) 78, 81, 84, 87 Hartnell, Norman 304, 310, 317 stovepipe 174, 211, 210
gathering 214 (1200–1300) 61 (1500–60) 88 Harvey, Gary 413 straw 57, 72, 73, 163, 168, 200,
Gaultier, Jean Paul 97, 297, 384, 387, (1389–1450) 66–7, 74–5, 423 (1590–1625) 99, 104 Hasidic Jews 395 207, 229, 240, 251, 253, 309,
(1450-1500) 80–1, 83, 423 (1625–35) 118, 119, 121, 126 Hathaway, Anne 417 337, 401, 428, 429
392, 393, 394–5, 417 (1500–60) 86–7 (1635–49) 123, 124, 125 hat pins 206, 229 straw boaters 211, 214, 215, 217,
gauntlets 60, 93, 104, 119, 272, 281 (1560–90) 94–5 (1649–60) 129 hats 231, 265, 341
gauze 173 (1625–35) 120–1 (1660–80) 132, 133 sugarloaf 73, 123
gay culture 290, 406 (1660–80) 132–3 (1681–1720) 138 200 years of women’s 428–9 surrealist 294
gemstones 17, 31, 121, 232, 249 (1720–70) 142–3 (1720–70) 150, 151, 160 (1450–1500) 80, 85 tasseled 378
gender bending 395 (1778–89) 149 (1778–89) 146, 147, 149, 152, (1500–60) 88, 89 tea 429
Genoa 120 (1830–44) 276–7 (1560–90) 100, 101 tilted 179, 201
geometric shapes 98–9, 104, 360 (1920s) 256–7 153, 156, 157 (1590–1624) 104 top 182, 184, 185, 186, 210,
George II of Great Britain 143 (1950–57) 326–7 (1800–9) 170, 171 (1635–45) 122, 123 224, 225, 262, 263, 288
George III of Great Britain 117, 153 ball 175, 181, 190, 199, 205, 395 (1810s) 175 (1660–85) 130, 131 toque 175, 231, 240, 241,
George IV of Great Britain 178, bouffant 190 (1820–30) 180, 181 (1685–1720) 136, 137 272, 291
Byzantine 36 (1870s) 165, 200, 201 (1778–89) 149 toreador-style 330
180, 182 classical (1930-44) 276–7 (1920s) 240, 250, 255 1820s women’s 178, 179 tricorne 136, 151, 153, 157, 158,
georgette 252 couture gowns (1950–7) 326–7 (1930s) 272, 291, 308 1900–14 women’s 229 162, 244, 309
Georgian era 136–43, 150–3, 156–7 dinner 233 (1950s) men’s 339, 340 1920s 265 trilby 265, 283, 429
Elizabethan 97 (1950s) teenage 345 1930s women’s 272, 273 turban-style 332, 429
costume dress 218–19 empire-line 170–1, 173, 232, 329 (1950s) women’s 346, 347 1950s men’s 339 Tyrolean style 273, 299, 308
Germany evening 232–3, 256–7, 274–5, (1960s) men’s 367, 369 1950s women’s 330 veiled 206, 320, 322
(1960s) women’s 354, 357, 361 ancient oriental 31 wide-brimmed 128, 130, 131,
Baroque and Rococo 120, 157 276–7 (1980–2012) 396, 397, 404, 405, Assyrian-style 58 136, 157, 184, 207, 217, 241,
Berliner chic 1917–35 290–1 figure-hugging 52, 53 beanie 412 252, 253
formal wear for men 211 knee-length (1920s) 256–7 407, 412 berets 83, 162, 309, 330, 396, see also bonnets; caps
knights 68, 69, 93 laced 81 à la ninon 175 hauberk (mail tunic) 69
Landsknecht 93 Letty Lynton (1932) 292, 293, 306 à la Titus 170, 171 397, 429 Hawes, Elizabeth 275, 294
medieval 61, 68 mantua 116, 132, 133, 138–9, ancient 14, 15 bergère (shepherdess) 200, 428 Hayworth, Rita 319
Renaissance 80, 86, 89, 90–1, 93, antifashion 236 black felt 341 Head, Edith 306, 314
140–1, 142–3, 159 Apollo knot 180, 181 bowler 210, 225, 265, 338, 407 headbands 60, 61, 64, 244
95, 101, 107 middle-class Renaissance 111 bobs 240, 241, 247, 255, 357 brimless 231, 240, 241 headdresses
women 1880s 205 morning 168 bouffant 361 brimmed 238, 239, 240 (1380–1450) 45, 66–7, 74, 75
Gernreich, Rudi 360 neoclassical 168–9 braiding 55 capotaine-style 128 (1450–1500) 80, 81
Gert, Valeska 290 open front 95, 219 Byzantine 59 captain’s 392 (1500–60) 86, 87
Ghesquière, Nicolas 329 red carpet 2002–11 416–17 crop style 354 cartwheel 319, 330 (1800–9) 171
Giacometti, Alberto 294, 297 Regency 173, 174–5 cropped 250 (1820s) 179
Gibb, Bill 351, 376 romantic nostalgia (1930–44) dandies 184, 185 chaperons 72, 73 (1830s) 190, 191
Gibson, Charles Dana 232 dreadlocks 407 cloche 223, 240, 241, 245, 250, (1837–55) 193
Gibson Girl 232 292–3 dyed 383 (1890s) 206
Gieves and Hawkes 419 tea 232–3 early Victorian 193 251, 252, 267, 272, 330, 429 (1960s) 360
Gigli, Romeo 419 V-neck 80, 81 Edwardian 234 with cockade 153
giornea 81 vestas 83 Elizabethan 97 cocked 136, 137, 139, 163
girdles 432, 433 wedding 60–1, 74, 94, 99, 189, Eton crop 223, 255 cocktail 322, 330, 429
(1920s) 252 Etruscan 32, 33 coke 265
New Look 316 193, 200, 230–1, 317, 360, 413 forelocks 339, 340, 404, 405 conical/cylindrical 45, 80, 109
see also sashes and girdles wrapping 139 greased 340 coolie 319
Gish, Lilian 237 see also dresses
Givenchy, Hubert de 317, 326, 329, Graham, Thomas, Baron Lynedoch

362, 419, 428 151
Gladstone, William Ewart 164, 217 le grand habit 116, 142
glam rock 383 Grand Tour 117, 150, 152

INDEX 469

Baroque and Rococo 133, 139, 147 hipsters 340–1 Hutchinson, Colonel 129 over crinolines 196 Egyptian 13, 16, 17
Byzantine 36 Hitchcock, Alfred 314, 419 Hutton, E.F. 260 oversized 389, 401 Elizabethan 97
double cornet 80 H.J. Nicoll 231 Hyde, Anne, Duchess of York 133 padded shoulders 396, 397, 398–9 Etruscan 32
Egyptian 16, 17 Hobe, Jacob 290 paletot 216 in hair 181
Etruscan 33 hockey wear 281 IJ paneled and draped (1950) 331 medieval 46, 47, 49
feathered 28, 179, 190 Hoffman, Josef 237 reefer 211 Minoan 20, 21, 23
gable 86, 87 Holbein the Younger, Hans 88, 111 Ibiza 406 riding 132, 186, 187 prehistoric 15
heart-shaped 74 holes, random 401, 403 iconography, Renaissance 108, 109 safari 371 Regency 175
horned 74 Hollar, Wenceslas 124 Iggy Pop 404 shooting 217 Renaissance female 106, 107
lace 133 Hollywood 222, 262, 263, 270, Ilincic, Roksanda 421 single-breasted 216, 302, 303, 368 Renaissance male 100, 103,
Minoan 21 Incorporated Society of London ski 346
neoclassical 168 288, 289, 306–7, 314, 315, spencer 171, 174, 178, 187, 373 104, 107
peaked 113 323, 332, 339, 342–3, 346, Fashion Designers 304 sports 217, 282, 283, 286 see also pearls
towering 81 361, 364, 376, 416–17 incroyables 185, 218 suede 374 Jewish styles 45, 58, 59, 83
wired 74 Holt, Arden 218 India, influence on fashion 190, 213, tailless 289 Jil Sander-Uniqlo 397
head scarves 239, 374 Holy Roman Empire 44, 48 tailed 214 jitterbug 344, 345
Hearst, Mrs. William Randolph 327 hooded tops 337 374, 376, 377 Turkish-style 160 jive 344
heavy metal 412 hoodies 406 indie kids 404 tuxedos 224, 286, 338, 371 Joan of Arc 45
Heim, Jacques 316 hoods indigo 38, 39 tweed 226, 286, 369 jodhpurs 238, 280
Helm, Brigitte 291 ancient 28 industrial revolution 166 unstructured 401 Johnson, Beverly 381
helmets French 86, 87, 95, 97 Infanta silhouette (Balenciaga) 329 waterproof 283 Jolibois 247
ancient 28, 29 fur-lined 73 Iron Age 14, 41 wax 405 Jones, Inigo 109, 126
bascinet 68 fur-trimmed 346 Irvine, Shirley June Fry 347 windbreaker 343 Jones, Stephen 429
Celtic 14 made from scarves 139 Irving, Sir Henry 219 women’s (1900–14) 228, 229, 230 Jonson, Ben 126
close 92, 93 medieval 56, 57, 72 Isabella Clara Eugenia, Infanta 99 women’s (1920s) 255 Jourdan, Charles 416
crested 93 Renaissance 81, 86, 97, 110 Islamic styles 45, 58, 59, 83 women’s (1948–59) 330–1 jousting 68, 93
jousting 93 riding 138 Isola, Maija 350 women’s 1980–2012 396, 397 Jovovich, Mila 417
leather flying 280 sweatshirt 389, 406 Italian Futurists 266 women’s sportswear (1870–1900) Juan II of Portugal 85
medieval knights 68, 69 with tails 56, 57, 64, 72, 85 Italy Juan-les-Pins 260
Norman “nasal” 69 hoops 86, 117, 140, 141, 142, 146, 214, 215 Judith, Countess of Flanders 48
pointed 68 157, 169, 180, 246, 433 Baroque and Rococo 120, 129, World War II 299 Juicy Couture 389
Renaissance 92, 93 Hope, Thomas 32, 33 158, 159 Jackson, Betty 249 jumpers (see sweaters) 226, 298
sallet 92 hoplites 28 Jacobs, Marc 385 cricket 389
with visors 69, 92, 93 Horn of Plenty (McQueen) 418, 419 Elsa Schiaparelli 296–7 jaconet 189 turtleneck 352, 359
winged 68 Hornby, Lesley see Twiggy lightweight suits (1950s) 338 Jaeger 283, 310 see also knitwear; pullovers;
Helvin, Marie 409 Horowitz, Adam 406 masquerade 158, 159 Jaeger, Dr 214
hemlines Horrockses 335 medieval age 53, 56, 57, 64, 65, Jagger, Bianca 373, 382 sweaters
(1590–1625) 98 horsehair net 295 Jagger, Mick 182, 382, 383 jumpsuits 372, 373, 382, 383, 410
(1820s) 178, 180, 181 hose 72, 73, 74, 75, 423 The Jam 405 jupon 68
1910s and 1920s rising 240, footed 65, 73 Missoni 381 Jamaica 406, 407 Just Looking (boutique) 359
full-bottomed 72 postwar 314 James Bond 395 Justinian I, Emperor 26
252–3, 255, 256 laced to doublet 73 Renaissance 81, 82–3, 84, 85, James, Charles 293, 294, 311,
(1920s) 258–9 leather-soled 64, 70, 90 KL
1930s below the knee 272 medieval 49, 52, 53, 56, 61, 65, 87, 88, 93, 94, 95, 100, 101, 324–5, 326, 327, 330
(1940s) 310 70–1, 72, 73 108, 112 James I of England 104, 118 kabbadion 58
1948–50s mid-calf 322, 330–1 Renaissance 83, 84, 85, 88, 89, shoe design 309 Jane and Jane 362 kabuki costumes 400
1960s minidress/miniskirt 352, 90–1, 92, 93, 100, 101, 105, see also Venice Japan KaDeWe (Kaufhaus des Westerns)
111, 219 It’s A Jungle Out There (McQueen)
356, 359, 360, 361 silk 184 419 ancient 12, 30–1 290
ballerina-length 320 striped/banded 92, 93 ivory 106, 205 gothic 405 kaftans
frilled 48 trunk 90, 100, 118, 218 jabot 152, 154, 208 influence on Western fashion
fringed 259 hot pants 382 (1910s) 237
pointed 256, 257 houppelandes 64, 66, 72, 73, 74, Jack the Ripper Stalks His Victims 213, 244 (1970s) 377
Regency 173 75, 80 (McQueen) 419 Japanese style 1973–2008 400–1 African-style 243
ruffled 147 hourglass shape 180–1, 190, 206, Rei Kawakubo 402–3 hippies 374
scalloped 256 208, 319, 321, 325, 326, 331, jackets youth 344 Ottoman 112, 113
trailing 80, 81, 121, 125 332, 335, 336, 337, 392, 396, alpaca dinner spencer 373 Japonism 244 Persian 59
uneven 247, 257, 278, 290, 377 398–9, 417 ancient Chinese 30 Jazz Age 254–5, 258 Sassanid 31
Henley Regatta 283 House of Creed 228 balloon 329 influence on fashion 340, 341 kalasiris 16, 18
Henri II of France 89 House of Dereon 416 baseball 389 see also Belle Epoque and Jazz Age Kamali, Norma 388
Henri III of France 103, 104 House of Dior 319, 387, 395 basketball 406 J.C. Penney 222, 335, 350 Kaminari zoku (Thunder Tribe) 344
Henri IV of France 78 House of Doucet 233, 243 belted 424 jeans 314, 340, 343, 344, 345, 372, Kane, Christopher 420, 421
Henrietta Maria, Queen 116, 124, House of Douillet 246 biker-style 371 Kane, Tammy 421
House of Drécoll 229 blazers 216, 217, 282, 283 373, 374, 424, 425 Karan, Donna 386, 387, 388, 396
126–7, 218 House of Fontenoy 366 bomber 406, 407 cuff 345 Karsavina, Tamara Platnovna 245
Henry II of England 55 House of Grès 276 braid-trimmed collarless 249 distressed 406 kataseista 36
Henry IV, Duke of Saxony 89 House of Lanvin 295, 361 bustled 419 drainpipe 344 Katrantzou, Mary 421
Henry VIII of England 78, 92, 97 House of Louiseboulanger 247 caraco 117, 163 hipster 359 kaunakes 15, 21
Hentz, Eta 277 House of Lucien Lelong 319 close-fitting, waisted (1920) 264 ripped 404 Kawakubo, Rei 243, 400, 401,
Hepburn, Audrey 314, 331 House of Lucile 222, 233 coach 406 rolled 404
Hepburn, Katharine 297, 306, House of Mybor 246 collarless 331 stonewashed 389 402–3
House of Paquin 222, 223, 233 dinner 289 Wranglers 345 Kelly, Grace 314, 315, 320, 346, 431
332, 346 House of Patou 326 dolman 159 Jensen, Karin 360 Kennan, George Frost 338
heraldry 68, 69, 108 House of Torrente 382 double-breasted 289, 302, 303, jerkins Kennedy, Jacqueline 249, 314, 320,
Hermès 431 House of Weeks 232 331, 338, 341, 366, 425 (1450–1500) 83, 425
heroin chic 409 House of Worth 199, 232, 243, down 346 (1500–60) 88, 89 333, 373
Hertford, Countess of 99 244, 247 drape 286, 340, 341, 404 (1560–90) 100, 101 Kennedy, John F. 315, 333
Hessel, Franz 290 house dresses 334, 335 fingertip 341 (1650s) 129 Kerouac, Jack 314
heuque (cloak) 73 housewives (1950s) 334–5 fitted box 368 leather 119, 129 Kestos 277
Hexter 366 Howell, Margaret 412 flying 280 Renaissance-style 218 key chains 302
Highland Rape (McQueen) 419 Hoyningen-Huene, George 278–9 golf 162 Stuart 119 khaki 298, 299, 300–1
hiking wear 231 Hughes, Howard 275 half-sleeve 330 jersey 249, 380 Khan, Charles S. 430
Hilliard, Nicholas 97 Huguenots 116, 117 hunting 217 jerseys Khanh, Emmanuelle 354
himation 24, 25 Hulanicki, Barbara 350, 364, 373 knit (1970s) 381 cycling 407 kick lines 290, 291
Hindmarch, Anya 431 Hung On You 369 leather 280, 343, 344, 371, 395, see also knitwear; pullovers; Kidman, Nicole 329
hip-hop 386, 389, 406, 407 Hungary 113, 159 405, 406 Kilgour French & Stanbury 289
hippies 351, 371, 372, 373, hunting wear 60, 64, 163, 186, linen 425 sweaters kimonos 30, 31, 213, 243, 245, 400
217, 231 loden 227 jewelry King’s Road 359, 404
374–5, 376, 412, 413 Hussars 159 long-line 302–3, 339, 396, 425 Kirkwood, Nicholas 416
hips loose or cardigan 249 (1950s) 327 kirtles
lounge 211 (1960s) 361
narrow 288 men’s 1950–55 338, 339 Baroque and Rococo 121 medieval 48, 49, 62, 75
padded 316 mess 289 Byzantine 36, 37 Renaissance 81, 86, 87, 111
wide 140–1 military-style 187, 366 Klein, Calvin 373, 386, 396, 410
mini (1960s) 356 costume 249, 327 Klimt, Gustav 237
Norfolk 224 dandies 185

470 INDEX

knickerbockers 215, 217, 226, 227, men’s (1840–1900) 210, 211 Maes, Nicolaes 128 mess dress 289 Scythian 14
283, 371 resort wear (1950-61) 336–7 mail 28, 68, 69, 360 Scottish soldiers 29 spivs 302
see also sportswear maillot 217 see also armor Muthesius, Anna 236
Knightley, Keira 416 Lelong, Lucien 306, 310, 319 Mainbocher 270, 275 Millar, Gertie 233
knights Lely, Sir Peter 133 Maison Fourrures Max 267 Miller, Lee 290 NO
Lenglen, Suzanne 250, 261 make do and mend 305 Miller, Sienna 413
medieval 52, 64, 68–9 Léon 61 makeup Mini-Crin 390 nankeens 210
Renaissance 92–3 leopard skin, faux 333, 353 mink 95, 106, 107 Naples 65
Knights Templar 69 Léotard, Jules 217 doll-like 401 Minoan civilization 13, 20–3 Napoleon, Emperor 164, 170
knitting 298 leotards 217, 388 eye 12, 13, 16, 18, 20, 21, 353, Napoleon III, Emperor 195, 199
knitwear Lesage 297 The Miracle of the Relic of the Napoleonic Wars 174
(1920–1929) 250–1 Leser, Tina 314 354, 373 True Cross (Carpaccio) 82–3 naturalism 98
(1970s) 380, 381 Let It Rock 390 “making a leg” 104, 105 nautical styles 215, 280, 353
World War II 304 Letty Lynton gown (1932) 270, Malcolm X 341 Mirman, Simone 428 neck gorget 69
Knossos 20, 21, 22–3 male models 369 Miss Modern 272, 272 neck cloths 182
Knowles, Beyoncé 416 292, 293, 306 Malibu 260, 266 Missoni 381 neckerchiefs 156, 170, 187
kohl 12, 13, 16 Levi’s 373 mancherons 176 mix-and-match collections 380 necklines
Korean War 337 Lewis, Jerry 339 Mango 415 Miyake, Issey 400, 401
Kors, Michael 388 Leyendecker, J.C. 262 mannequins 199 Miyake Design Studio 400 arched 81
Krebs, Germaine 276, 322 Libération collection (Saint Laurent) Mansfield, Jayne 323 mod image 354 asymmetric 416
Kronthaler, Andreas 390 mantillas 193 mod revival 404, 405, 406 boat 65, 190, 295, 320–1, 335
lace 371 mantles modernism 243, 249, 255, 266–7, bust level 94
(1830s) 189, 190, 191 Liberty & Co. 167, 213, 237 cowl 273, 278, 326, 364
(1920s) 252 Liberty, Arthur Lazenby 213 Byzantine 59 275, 290 curved 63
(1930s) 273, 293 Lido pajamas260 Japanese-style (1909) 244 Moholy-Nagy, Laszlo 266 deep (men’s) 338
(1960s) 320 La Ligne Muguet (1954) 327 medieval 46, 47, 48, 49, 53, 61, 65 Mollison, Amy Johnson 280 draped 293
(1970s) 380 linen 16, 56, 110, 128 Renaissance 99, 111 Molyneux, Edward 256, 305 drawstring 156, 168
antique 320–1 lingerie mantua gowns 116, 132, 133, Monasterio de las Huelgas extended V 376
Baroque and Rococo 118, 119, folded 327
(1920s) 252 138–9, 140–1, 142–3, 159 (Burgos) 61 frilled 378, 379
122, 124, 125, 131, 133, 135, early 20th-century 228 Marais, Jean 294 Mondrian, Piet 350, 371 gathered 378
145, 153 Linhart, Georgina 383 Marchesa label 319, 417 Monet, Claude 213 halter neck 275, 277, 309, 337,
Brussels 189 linings Margaret, Princess 317, 319 monks/monasticism 36, 48, 83
crin lace 295 checked and tartan 216 Margiela, Martin 97, 410, 411 monobosom 228, 229, 234 352, 377, 382, 383
early 20th-century 228, 229, 232, contrasting colors 272 Margueritte, Victor 252, 255 Monreale Cathedral, Palermo 36 high 94, 99, 234, 275, 377
233, 234, 246 fur 61, 65, 72, 73, 74, 80, 81, Maria of Austria, Empress 87 Monroe, Marilyn 323 keyhole 48
Elizabethan 97, 109 Marie-Antoinette, Queen 117, Mont, Vera 392 low, round 98, 146, 247
machine-made 191 86, 95, 106, 107, 112, 113 Montagu, Lady Mary Wortley 160 plunging 361
Regency 175 luxurious fabric 210 147, 148–9, 195 Montana, Claude 397 Regency low, wide 173
Renaissance 79, 94, 103, 104, 109 Marie-Thérèse, Queen of France Monte-Sano 310 rolled-edge 335
Second Empire 195 visible 257 Moors 44, 58, 61 rollneck 368
Spanish 193 Linley, Elizabeth 156 132 Moralioglu, Erdem 421 round 256
Victorian 193, 207 liripipe 56, 57, 72, 85 Marimekko 350, 372 Morgen, Heinrich Joachim von 283 rounded 80
lacerna 33 Little Ice Age 73 Marks & Spencer 354 Mori, Hanae 400 scoop 74, 121, 237, 344
Lachasse 331 livery 84 Marshall & Snelgrove 241 Morland, Henry 159 slit 52
lacing 52, 53, 62, 63, 64, 71, 74, Lobster dress (1937) 294 Marshall, Mary 346 morning dresses/gowns square 61, 81, 86, 140, 200,
75, 80, 81, 383 loincloths marten fur 73, 305
tight (1830–7) 190, 191 Martin, Dean 339 (1790s) 168 344, 377
Lacoste, René 261 Minoan 20, 21 Marty, André 246 (1810s) 175 straight 86, 241
Lacroix, Christian 319, 392 Nubian 15 Mary I of England 87 (1811–20) 170 swimsuit-style 417
lady’s maids 171 Roman 35 masks (1880s) 204 turtleneck 280, 352, 367, 371, 421
Lagerfeld, Karl 36, 182, 249, London, Regency 182 Morris, Jane 214 V- 52, 53, 74, 80, 81, 193, 251,
384, 392 London cut 288 ancient oriental 30 Moschino 297
lamé 245, 246, 247, 256, 272, London Fashion Week 381 Baroque and Rococo 158, 159 Moser, Koloman 236 253, 258, 261, 264, 275,
274, 275, 291, 417 London look 356 Etruscan-Corinthian 29 Moss, Kate 413, 414–15 310, 352, 367, 381
lampas 44, 52 longbowmen 68 Venetian 108 Moss Bros 298 wide 74, 219, 362
Land Army 238, 298, 299 Lord & Taylor 308, 314 masquerade 117, 158–9 mother-of-pearl 205 zipped 308
Landsknecht 93 Los Angeles 271, 302 masques 99, 108, 109, 126, 218 Motley 277 see also décolletage
Lang, Helmut 410, 411 Louboutin, Christian 416, 426 massproduction 308 Motor Corps 239 neck pieces, fox 291
Lanvin, Jeanne 246, 247, 262, Louis VII of France 55 mature women, promoting 354 motor racing 283 Nefertari, Queen 13, 16
270, 274, 276, 292, 323 Louis XIII of France 123 Maxwell, Vera 309 motorcycling 226, 343, 371, 3 Nefertiti, Queen 18–19
lapels Louis XIV of France 116, 117, measurements 195 Neiman Marcus 293
contrasting facings 272, 273 90, 404 Neo-Edwardian style 338
long 286 130, 131, 132, 137 Medieval Romance and Trade motoring wear 230 neoclassicism 150, 174, 176
notched 225, 298, 299, 303 Louis XV of France 142, 160 (600–1449) 42–75 mountaineering 231 (1790–1800) 164, 168–9, 190
peaked 262, 288, 289, 339 Louis XVI of France 149 mourning wear 178, 196, 204 (1930–44) 276–9
shawl 289 Louis the Pious 47 time line 44–5 mousseline de soie 234, 292 net 173, 295, 322, 323, 327
silk 211, 224 Love, Diane 430 Mediterranean 52, 58 movies, influence of 222, 255, 270, Netherlands
wide 157, 184, 186, 238, 341 Lowe, Marcus 265 Melly, George 359 Baroque and Rococo 118, 120,
Lapidus, Ted 382 lunulae 15 Men’s Dress Reform Party 275, 282, 286, 288, 289, 290, 121, 124, 128, 129
lappets 132, 175, 190, 193 lurex 361, 367 291, 292, 293, 297, 306, 306–7, medieval age 73, 74, 75
Larkin, William 104 lutestring 180 (MDRP) 283 314, 315, 323, 331, 332, 339, Renaissance 80, 100, 110, 111
Latinos 302 Luttrell Psalter 56 menswear, 3000 years of 424–5 341, 342–3, 346, 361, 376, 389, see also Flanders
lattice work 180 luxuries, trade in 106–7 Mephistopheles 219 395, 416–17, 419 New Look (1947–55) 271, 314,
Lauren, Ralph 351, 386 Lycra 315, 382, 383, 388 merchant class see middle class movie stars 222, 255, 262, 263, 270, 316–17, 319, 322, 325, 329,
Lavine, Beth 416 lynx 78, 107 metallic thread 151, 247, 253, 275, 282, 286, 288, 289, 290, 330, 344
layering 30, 78, 252, 420 291, 292, 293, 297, 306–7, New Model Army 129
leather 110 M 275, 327 New Romantics 390, 406, 407
boiled 68 metalworking 68 314, 315, 323, 331, 332, 339, New Wave 406
dress trimmings 376 macaronis 116, 152–3, 185 Metternich, Princess Pauline 199 341, 342–3, 346, 361, 376, New World, discovery of the 78,
metallic 276, 290, 292, 356 McCardell, Claire 249, 308, 309, Michaheles, Ernesto 266 389, 416–17 79, 106, 107
punks 390 middle class moygashel 304 New York
shoes 65 314, 335 mss 16 (1980–2011) 384
wartime shortages 304 McCartney, Stella 371, 389 19th-century 166, 188 muffs 125, 168, 178, 192, 231 Fifth Avenue 308
leg bindings/windings 40, 68 mackinaws 231 Edwardian 234 Mugler, Thierry 392, 398–9 postwar 325, 350
leggings 407 McLaren, Malcolm 350, 390, medieval 60, 72 Muir, Jean 359, 362, 378–9 ready-to-wear 270
medieval 47, 51 postwar 322 multiculturalism 395 New York Dolls 350, 404
leg warmers 388, 407 404, 407 Renaissance 110, 111 mummers 158 Nichol, S.S. 226
Leiber, Judith 363, 430 McLuhan, Marshall 374 Middle Eastern influence 244, 245 Munn, Charles 283 nightgowns, Baroque and Rococo
leisure wear McNicoll, Carol 382 Middleton, Kate see Cambridge, music festivals 351, 405, 413 131, 138, 139
exotic 211 McQueen, Alexander 97, 384, muslin 168, 169, 173, 195 Nihilism (McQueen) 419
Duchess of mustaches Nirvana 387
418–19 Les Mignons 103 The Beatles 360
McSharry, Deirdre 354 migrations, age of 46–7 early 20th-century 225
Macy’s 306 Milan 384, 401 handlebar 14, 366
Madame de Pompadour (van Loo) military dress Norman 49

160 –1 Byzantine 37
Madonna 384, 385, 389, 395 English Civil War 129
fashion for 153
inspiration of 288, 330
medieval knights 68–9

INDEX 471

nobility overtunics narrow fitting 262 geometric 12, 237, 251, 252, bouffant 344
French 146, 147 medieval 58, 60, 61 Ottoman 112 253, 258, 266, 267, 357, 362, eiderdown feather 204
medieval 51, 60 neoclassical 168 oxford bags 283 367, 380 farthingale 80, 86, 95, 98,
Restoration 135 padded 69
Ozbek, Rifat 385 pegged 302, 303, 340, 341 gingham 316, 364, 413, 423 120, 126
nomadic peoples 30, 31 pleated 262, 285, 289, 303, 338 “granny” prints 364 flounced 146, 147
Norell, Norman 330, 350 P Regency 173 harlequin 267 hooped 140, 141, 157
Normans 44, 49, 51, 59, 68 Renaissance 100 Hawaiian 336 multiple layers 192
nosegays 147, 168 padding side-closure 281, 298 herringbone 311 neoclassical 169
Nostalgia of Mud (Westwood) 390 breeches 104, 218 skater-style 412 hippy 374 New Look 316, 322, 323
Nouveau Réalisme movement 315 bulbous 403 slacks 346 Islamic 112 pleated 144, 157
Nubians 15 chest 64, 184, 211 stirrup pants 346 Japanese 213 princess 200
Nutter, Tommy 182, 369 collars 176 tapered 225, 264, 338 medieval 48, 66 quilted 219
nylon 271, 315 cuffs 176, 177 tight-fitting 366, 367, 368, 369 mi-parti 45, 62, 84 Renaissance 95, 98, 99, 109, 110
Obama, Michelle 385, 420 doublets 69, 73, 118 track pants 347 Minoan 20 short length 219
ocher dyes 39 dressing gowns 211 tracksuit bottoms 388 paisley 366, 377 Stuart 126
Oldfield, Bruce 393 hairstyles 146 pantsuits 359, 371, 372, plaids 216, 272, 286, 345 tin-weighted 206
Oliverian clothing 129 hips 316 polka dot 165, 352 waist 188
ombré effect 411 peascod belly 100, 105 373, 382 pop art 352 Peyton, Lady Margaret 81
Onassis, Jackie see Kennedy, shoulders 88, 89, 100, 306, 310, white ducks 282, 283 psychedelic 353, 354, 374 Philip II of Spain 78, 93, 100
340, 366, 382, 393, 396, 397, wide-legged 283, 302–3, 338, 396 Renaissance 108–9 Philo, Phoebe 420, 421
Jacqueline 398–9 women’s leisure and sports 260, Russian folk 241 Picabia, Francis and Gaby 297
opera wear skirts 146 sawtooth 267 Piccolomini, Ottavio 129
sleeves 206 261, 280, 281, 346 scrolls 276, 277 pickadil 118
(1820–30) 181, 185 small of back 188, 189 women’s wartime 298 small prints (1940s) 305 picnicking 214
(1901–14) 225, 245 pants 69 women’s wide-bottomed 249, stripes 37, 152, 175, 179, 251, Picts 108
(1920s) 262 vests 184, 211 Piedmont 75
Opéra-Ballet Russes collection see also bustles 261, 280 288, 302, 311, 327, 336, 357, pigments see dyes and pigments
waistcoats (see vests) see also braccas; breeches; 361, 366, 381, 383 Piguet, Robert 319
(Saint Laurent) 371 pageants 158 surrealist 294–5 pikemen 92
Oppenheim, Meret 294 knickerbockers; pantaloons; plus tartan 193, 197, 273, 390 Pilati, Stefano 371
pagne 35 fours tie-dyed 376 pilgrims 57
Optimism and Youth (1947–63) paillettes 256 pantsuits 382 wool and silk weaves (1860s) 197 pinking 99
312–347 palla 34 pantyhose see tights zigzag 178, 179, 197, 251, 261, pinning 99
pallium 35, 36, 57 Paracas culture 39 272, 361 pintucking 174
time line 314–15 Palm Beach 260, 261, 264, 265, 283 parasols 174, 177, 192, 193, 201, pauldrons 93 piping 178, 179, 181, 188
opus anglicanum 57 paltocks 70 205, 229, 234, 240, 260 peace movement 374, 376 Pirate collection (Westwood) 390
L’Orage (Storm) dress 267 Pancaldi & B. 376 pardessus 186 peacock dress 232 plackart 92
orange dyes 39 pantalettes 192 Paris Pearl Jam 412 plastic 329, 352, 356, 360, 361, 376
Order of the Garter 137 pantaloons 103, 130, 182, 184, (1810s) 175 pearls 59, 74, 75, 95, 97, 104, plastron 64, 65, 81
Order of the Holy Spirit 105 (1830s) 191 106, 107, 121, 126, 133, 160, plate armor
organdie 306 185, 210 (1950s) 331 175, 319, 327 medieval 68, 69
organza 293, 323, 327 riding 186 (1980-2011) 384 artificial 249 Renaissance 92–3
oriental styles 112–13, 131, 158, pants (trousers) Baroque and Rococo 122, 150 peasants Plato’s Atlantis (McQueen) 419
(1790–1839) men’s 184–5 Coco Chanel 248–9 medieval 56–7 playsuits 309, 336
160, 190, 213, 218, 243, 319 (1840–1900) men’s 210–11 Left Bank 345, 371 Renaissance 110–11 pleating
Orientalism 1909–26 222, (1901–14) men’s 224–5 Liberation of 310 peascod belly, padded 100, 105 blouse 206, 228
(1920s) men’s 262, 263 Madeleine Vionnet 278–9 pelerines 191 bodices 75, 188, 189
244–5 (1920s) women’s 260, 261 Paul Poiret 242–3 pelisses box 145, 207, 226, 304,
Oscars 416–17 (1930–40) men’s 288–9 postwar revival 314 (1800–09) 171
Ossendrijver, Lucas 286 (1930s) women’s 280, 281 Second Empire 195, 199 (1811–20) 174–5 320–1, 347
ostrich feathers 106, 107, 122, (1939–45) men’s 302–3 World War II 270, 302, 308 (1820s) 178 cartridge 145, 178, 179, 188,
(1939–45) women’s 298 Yves Saint Laurent 370–1 (1840s) 193
123, 136, 137, 149, 169, 180, (1950–55) men’s 338–9 Parr, Catherine 86 Brandenburg-closure 175 243, 295
190, 205, 206, 229, 241, 244, (1950–60) women’s 346 partlets 86, 87, 94, 95, 98, 121 pelisse-robe (1830s) 188 coats 90–1, 156
247, 290, 291, 417, 419 (1964–79) women’s 372–3 party wear Regency 176–7 collars 237
Otto III, Emperor 46 (1980–2012) women’s 396, 397 (1450–1624) 108–9 pellanda 75 deep 91
Ottomans 78, 112–13 ancient 14, 15 (1625–1790) 158–9 pellote 58, 61 diagonal 247
overalls baggy 158, 160, 244, 340, (1800–1900) 218–29 peplos 13, 24, 25, 33, 277, 278 Egyptian 16, 18
(1919–28) 266 (1850s) 193 peplos style 41 fan 204
World War I 239 341, 390 (1909–26) 243, 244, 245 peplum 197, 333 Greek-style 237
World War II 298 bell-bottoms 374 passementerie knots 91 flared 273 inverted 272, 273, 281, 335
over bodices bondage 404 patchwork 371, 374, 381 pleated 73, 277 knife 230
cuirasse 200 capri 337, 346 patka 218 pointed 203 narrow 276
unfastened 218 center crease 338, 397 Patou, Jean 222, 249, 250, 251, short 397 pencil 250
overdresses/gowns clam diggers 346 255, 277 Pepys, Samuel 135 pants 262, 285, 303, 338
(1890s) 206, 208–9 clownlike 341 pattern books 79, 105 perfumes petticoats 144, 157
(1920s) 256 Cossack 184 patterns ancient 17, 25 pleated frills 363
(1930s) 275 cropped 286, 340 (1830–7) 188–9 Chanel 249 Regency pelisse 177
(1940s) 277 cuffs 225, 227, 283, 286, 288, 298, abstract 245, 266, 267, 334, 336, dandies 185 Renaissance 80, 84, 86
costume dress 218 367, 421 global 386, 415 shoulder 193, 295
Edwardian 232 303, 338, 340, 345, 373 ancient Greek 24, 38 Renaissance 106 side 156, 251
gauze 171 culottes 346, 371 ancient oriental 30 Schiaparelli 297 skirts 52, 86, 95, 107, 228, 250,
neoclassical 169 development of 72 animal prints 306, 336 periwigs 135
split 80 drainpipe 340, 344, 369 art deco 253, 259, 364, 372, Perry, Fred 282, 406 251, 252, 253, 255, 276, 277,
trained 175 draped 339 382, 431 Persia 281, 291, 310, 316, 320, 321,
overshirts 366 flannels 227, 265, 282, 283, 289 art nouveau 236, 237, 364, 367 ancient 30, 31 330, 331, 380, 382
overskirts 215, 232 flared 366, 367, 372, 373, 374, batik 336 inspiration from 244 sleeves 53, 73
(1660–80) 132, 133 Byzantine 36, 37 medieval 58, 59 soft vertical 215
(1820s) 259 382, 383 Celtic 49 Peru 28, 39 tight 135
(1830s) 191 front crease 225, 264, 265, 282, checks 193, 197, 205, 272, 273, Perugia, André 416 trompe l’oeil 277
(1870s) 200, 201 286, 302, 345, 381, 422, 423 Petits Swings 302 wartime limitations on 304
cut away at back (1950s) 323 283, 289 chiné 157 petticoat breeches 104, 122, wide 317
diaphanous 191 harem-style 367 circular 360 130, 219 Pliny the Elder 56
draped (1950s) 327 high-waisted 262, 407 diamond 159, 267 petticoats Plunkett, Walter 270, 292, 306
lamp shade 233, 241, 245 hipsters 359 digital prints 421 (1660–80) 132, 135 plus fours 216, 223, 226, 286
net 171 jama 211 disposition 205 (1681–1720) 139 suit (1930s) 284–5
peplum 197 jeans 314, 340, 343, 344, 345, dot and teardrop 378 (1720–70) 140, 142 Plymouth (Massachusetts) 79, 128
polonaise 200 Egyptian 39 (1770–89) 146, 157 pockets
sack back dress 145 359, 372, 373, 374, 389, 404, Fair Isle 222, 283, 286, 304 (1950s) 344 breast 265, 284
short 246, 277 405, 406, 424, 425 floral 189, 205, 272, 317, 334, buttoned 136, 239, 300, 356
swagged 147, 200 jodhpurs 238, 280, 346, 388 356, 363, 372, 373, 376, 377 coat 155, 184, 186
trailing 146 linen 425
wide, see-through (1920s) 247 loon pants 374
oversleeves low-slung 419
bouffant 190 medieval 48, 49
transparent 190

472 INDEX

deep 298 purses 430–1 (1870s) 201 lace 145, 233 (1920s) 247, 253, 257, 266
external 201 puttees 239 (1950s) 327 macaronis and dandies 153 (1960s) 366
false 353 PVC 352, 360, 361 Baroque and Rococo 118, 121, on skirts 174, 197, 241, 292, 293 ancient Chinese 15, 30
flap 136, 265, 289, 304, 356, 357 pajamas 211, 213, 218 on sleeves 140, 141, 145, 152, Baroque and Rococo 132, 133,
hidden 191 130, 146, 152, 157
internal skirt 203 all-in-one 362 costume dress 219 154, 157, 189, 229, 233, 237, 156, 163
notebook 300 beach (1920s and 1930s) 222, early 20th-century 228, 229, 292, 293 flowing (1950s) 326
patch 226, 298, 302, 335, 336, on swimwear 337 head scarves 239, 310, 383, 406
260, 261, 266, 280 234, 247 ruffs long 138
356, 357, 373 de bateau (1930s) 280 early Victorian 193 (1890s) 206–7 long, diaphanous 181
practical 227 lounging (1935–45) 294 neoclassical 168, 169 cartwheel 98, 120 men’s sports 282
separate 188 Renaissance 94, 95, 98, 104 circular 118 neck 156
slanted hip 264, 330, 331 QR Second Empire 195 double 98, 99 Regency 175
slanting 272 Richard II of England 45 Elizabethan 97, 109, 178 Renaissance 110
straight flap 265 Qatar 15, 414 riding wear falling 119 trailing (1930s) 277, 278
welt 399 Quant, Mary 315, 350, 352, 356, 19th-century 217 layered 118 schenti 16, 17
zippered 367 (1950s) 346 pleated 121 Schiaparelli, Elsa 271, 294, 295,
points 73, 118, 119 359, 361, 363, 364, 380 Baroque and Rococo 132, 139, 162 Regency 187
Poiret, Denise 242, 243 quilting 69, 70, 71, 210, 219, habits 149, 162, 163, 186, 187, Renaissance 79, 87, 94, 95, 98, 296–7, 429
Poiret, Paul 199, 222, 242–3, 244, 99, 103, 104, 105, 109 scholars 56
295, 377 214, 228 Stuart 118, 119, 120, 121, 124 Scholte, Frederick 288
245, 393 Rabanne, Paco 350, 360, 361, 430 inspiration from 388 Run DMC 406 Schön, Mila 329
Poisson, Jeanne Antoinette see race wear ringlets 20, 23, 125, 126, 133, 192 Russell, Ken 354 Schouler, Proenza 243, 388
Rive Gauche 371 Russell, Rosalind 307 science fiction, influence of
Pompadour, Madame de (1870–1900) 215 Roaring Twenties 255, 256, 270 Russian style
Pollock, Jackson 334 (1901–14) 225, 234 robe à danser 247 Cossack coats 238, 272 (1960s) 361
Polo, Marco 45 (1920s) 265 robe à la française 144–5, 146, Cossack hats 311 (1970s) 373
Polonaise style 144, 145, 147, 149, (1930s) 282, 288 folk costume 241, 245 (1990s) 410
racial inequality 374 423, 433 postrevolutionary 266, 267 sclavein 57
200, 202 racoon fur 264 robe à la polonaise 147, 149 Ryder, Winona 413 sculptural clothes 400
polyester, pleated 401 Radcliffe, Robert, Earl of Sussex 93 robe de style 246–7, 292 Scythians 14, 15
pom-poms 347 Radiziwill, Princess Stanislaus 363 robes S seams
Pompadour, Madame de 117, 160–1 Rahvia 305 faggotted 292
Pompeii 34, 35, 39 rainwear 186, 297, 329 ancient oriental 30, 31 Saab, Elie 416 mantua gown center back 141
pop art 352, 371 rap 389, 406 clerical 57 sabautons 68, 92 plus fours suit 284
Pop Art collection (Saint Laurent) Raspaigne, Nicolas de 113 Egyptian royal 17 sable 73, 78 princess 321, 326
ratiné 240 Etruscan 33 Sackville, Edward, 4th Earl of topstiched 378
371 ration coupons 270, 271, 298, 299, Garter 137 wartime restrictions on 305
pop culture 315, 351, 364, 366–7, medieval 64, 72, 73 Dorset 104 zigzag 272
301, 304, 305, 310, 314 open 142, 144 Sackville, Richard, 3rd Earl of Sears Roebuck 231
368, 372, 376, 382, 383, 386, rave scene 406, 407 Ottoman 112, 113 Seattle 412
387, 388, 389, 404, 405, Ravenna mosaics 37 Renaissance 83, 84, 85, 88, 95, Dorset 109 second-hand clothing 374
406–7, 412 Ravi-Sher Singh, Raja of Kalsia 283 Sackville, Sir Thomas 92 see-through fabrics 168, 169
Popova, Lyubov 266, 267 Ray, Man 294, 297 100, 101 sailor suits 215 Selim II, Sultan 112
Porto, Countess Livia da 107 rayon 222, 252, 274, 292, 352 Rococo 142 Saint Laurent, Yves 315, 319, 350, separates, 1950s 336
Portugal 85, 107 ready-to-wear styles scholarly 56 sequins 293, 361, 382, 383, 412, 413
postwar clothing 324–5 robings 142 354, 361, 362, 363, 370–1, 372 Serbia 59
Potter, Claire 308 (1935–44) 308–9 Rochas 310 Sambo 334 sewing machines 166, 200, 204,
poulaine shoes 65, 84 (1980–2012) 403, 415 rock ‘n’ roll 314, 344 samplers 188
pour le sport 255 postwar 310 rock stars 383, 404, 405 San Francisco 374–5 210, 214
pourpoint 64, 70–1 Rebel Without a Cause (movie) 315, rockabilly 405 Sander, Jil 397 Sex (store) 390
pouter pigeon look 185 rockers 344, 404 Sandow, Eugen 217 sex appeal 337, 361
poverty look 403 343, 345 Rocket (Fusée) dress (1938) 295 Saracens 59 Sex Pistols 351, 390, 404
power dressing 390, 396–7, recycling 413 Rococo 116, 142, 150, 405 Sardinian chieftains 14 sexual discrimination 374
410, 423 red see also Baroque and Rococo secondhand stores 412 sexual revolution 372
power suit 398–9 Rodchenko, Aleksandr 266 saris 299 shalvar 158
practical clothing dyes 38, 39, 46, 49, 56, 106 Rodney Dresses 323 sarongs 395 shape
house dresses (1950s) 334, 335 symbolism of 108 Roger II of Sicily 59 sashes and girdles
medieval 56, 57 Red Cross 238, 298 Rogers, Millicent 267, 293 (1920s) 240
modernism 266 redingote 157, 178, 333 Rolling Stones 366 (1920s) 252, 253, 290 1930s long and lean 272
Renaissance 110–11 Regency era Romanesque style 48 Baroque and Rococo 119, 125, 1930s smooth unbroken line 274
women’s wartime 300–1, 330, Beau Brummel 182–3 Romans, ancient 1950s silhouette 344
396–9 belles 174–5 dyes and pigments 39 130, 131, 136, 137, 150, 156 A-line silhouette 12, 319, 362
Prada 243, 387 dandies 184, 368 Empire 13, 26, 32, 34–5, 41, 44 Byzantine 37 architectural 330
praipendula 36, 37 pelisse 176–7 influence on fashion 12, 170, early 20th-century 229, 240 Barrel line 329
pre-Columbian cultures 12, 28, society 172–3 Greek 25 bell 174, 237
39, 79, 107 sportswear 186–7 276, 277, 278, 417 medieval 58, 75 boxy silhouette 311
Pre-Raphaelite movement 214 Regny, Jane 280 rompers, beach (1920s) 261 Middle Eastern 218 columnar silhouette 168, 170–1,
prehistory 14–15 religious garments Rooney, Coleen 405 Minoan 20
Presley, Elvis 314, 315, 344 ancient 16, 17, 36, 37, 434 Roosevelt, Eleanor 298 Renaissance 81, 87, 95, 104 237, 243, 326, 417
prêt-à-porter 249 medieval 44, 45, 48, 56–7 Rose, Helen 314, 315 shoulder sash 130 cone 144
priesthood Renaissance 83, 108 Rosenstein, Nettie 431 Sassanids 31 figure-hugging 382, 383
Byzantine 36, 37 rosettes 98, 104, 131, 152, 153 Sassoon, Belville 393 fitting the body (1300-80) 64–5
Egyptian 16, 17 Renaissance Splendor Sassoon, David 199, 393 from drape to shape (1500–60)
medieval 56–7 (1450–1624) 76–113 garters 131 Sassoon, Vidal 354, 357
Renaissance 108 shoe 94, 99, 104, 123, 152, 169 sateen 334 86–7
Productivism 267 time line 78–79 Rosie the Riveter 271, 299 satin 106, 125, 173, 207, 232, geometric 98–9, 104, 360
propoloma 36 Renta, Oscar de la 329, 397 Rosier, Michèle 350, 353 H shape 319
Provence 53 Reptile dress (1920s) 256 Ross, Diana 383 272, 273, 325, 377, 382, 417 hourglass 180–1, 190, 206,
psychobillies 404 reptile skins 334 Rossi, Tino 288 Savage Beauty (McQueen) 419
Pucci, Emilio 314, 362, 363, 367 rerebrace 68 rouleau band, padded 181 Savage collection (Westwood) 208, 319, 321, 325, 326, 331,
Pulcinella 158, 159 resort wear Roundheads 129 332, 335, 336, 337, 392, 396,
pullovers rowing 282, 283 390, 392 398–9, 417
Chanel 249 (1930s) 280, 288 Roxburghe, Duke of 224 Savile Row 182, 264, 270, 286, Infanta silhouette 329
golf 283 (1940s) 309 Royal Society for the Protection lamp shade-minaret 243
Puma 406 (1950–61) 336–7 289, 338, 340, 368, 369 New Look 316, 319, 322, 325,
Punch and Judy 159 Restoration 130–1, 132, 135, of Birds 206 Saxons 40, 41, 51 326, 329, 330
punk 350, 351, 390, 395, 404, rubber 337, 390 Saxony, August, Elector of 101 oversize 389, 397, 407
406, 407 138, 424 Rubens, Pieter Paul 98, 113 Saxony, Duchess of 107 pagoda 244
Puritans 79, 124, 126, 128–9, revers, velvet 185 rubies 106, 327 Saxony, Maurice, Elector of 90–1 Princess line 200, 319
397 Reville and Rossiter 258 ruches 181, 203, 228, 277, 292 saya 64, 94 S-bend 222, 228, 229, 422
purple rude boys 404, 405 saya encordada 61 simpler silhouette (1900–14) 228–9
dyes 36, 37, 38, 39, 56, 195 From Revolution to Frivolity ruffles sayon 61 square silhouette 78, 90–1
symbolism of 34, 35, 39 (1790–1900) 164–219 scarves super-thin 354
time line 166–167 on blouses 397 triangular 86, 87, 96, 98, 99
on dresses 207, 421 (1681–1720) 138, 139 tubular 228, 252, 258, 401
revolutionaries, support for 168, 184 dust 201, 204, 214 (1820s) 179
rhinestones 232, 246, 256, 257, 258, French (1778–89) 147, 154 (1830s) 189, 190, 191

259, 327
Rhodes, Zandra 377
ribbons

(1820s) 178, 180, 181
(1830s) 188, 189

INDEX 473

World War II 304 dress 185, 253 exaggerated 295 feathered 247, 290 bell 364
Y-line 319 embroidered 36, 37, 46 gathered 276, 277, 373, 381 fishtail 200–1, 294, 416 bishop 196, 210, 237, 241,
Sharples, Rolinda 172–3 espadrilles 337, 406 low 192, 193 flared 53, 237, 275, 294, 322, 378
Shaver, Dorothy 308, 314 fenestrated 65 narrow 371 flat-fronted 199, 202–3, 206, 310 293, 309
shaving, women 256, 258, 281 flip-flops 337 narrow, inset 364 flounced 20, 21, 191, 193, 327 bouffant 189
Shaw, Sandie 376 Gibson 253 natural (1950s) 338 froufrou 323 bracelet 333
shawls golf 226 naturally falling 237 full 178, 214, 228, 246, 311, 320, cap 196, 258, 275, 326, 363
Cashmere/Kashmir 169, 170, Haferlschuh 304 padded 88, 89, 100, 306, 340, cropped 411
high-heeled 98, 104, 128, 135, 322, 326, 344, 345 cuffed 373
193, 197 366, 382, 393, 396, 397, 398–9 gathered 327 dolman 329, 331
fur 252 147, 201, 219, 388 puffe 304 gently widening 208–9 double 181
Roman 34 high-heeled pumps 299 rounded or sloped 316, 319, gored 40, 197, 207, 215, 304 elbow-length 65, 121, 132, 138,
square 188 high-laced 179 handkerchief 377
trailing 256, 274, 276, 277 high-tongued 136, 137 330, 331 hobble 243, 244, 319, 416 142, 149, 171
Victorian 192 Italian heels 169 square 310 juppes 162 fitted 240
Shearer, Norma 307 Japanese geta 400 tied 323 kilts 390, 395 fitted to elbow 145
Sherman, Samuel 334 jogging 388 wide 78, 288, 310, 311 looped-up 214, 218, 219 flared 74, 367, 377
shields 28, 29 kid 175, 189 shoulder straps lower at back 200, 247, 291 flared wrist 369
shifts kilties 231 thin 247, 257, 274, 275, 277 maxi 359, 374, 380, 395 flounced 142, 143, 193
linen 138 lace-up 229, 253, 281, 283 wide 256, 274, 294 mega-micro 356 gigot 178, 179, 186, 199
neoclassical 168 latchet 104, 142, 427 Shrimpton, Jean 350, 409 micromini 361 half- 86, 330
sleeved linen 41 leather 65 Shunsho, Katsukawa 213 midi 359 hanging 52, 64, 74, 75, 81, 85,
Turkish-style 160 loafers 339, 407, 421 Shurmann, Petra 332 mini 352, 356, 359, 360, 381
visible linen 62, 80, 133 Louis heels 229 Sicily 59 Minoan 20–1 90, 91, 112
shirring 337 medieval 52, 53, 56, 57, 65 sideburns 185 narrow 304, 305 leg-of-mutton 206, 207, 208–9,
shirts men’s heeled (1840–1900) 210, silk narrowing to hem 229, 233
Baroque and Rococo 123, 154, 156 (1930s) 292, 293 New Look 316–17, 319 214, 215, 392
billowing 390, 407 211 (1950s) 338 open-front 95, 99, 135 long, pointed 94
checked 286, 345 men’s heeled (1960–79) 372 (1970s) 376 padded 146 manche à la Montespan 189
dress 185, 289 mules 337, 426, 427 artificial 222, 240, 252, 283 paneled 201, 206, 376 medieval 55, 56, 66, 72
flannelette 412 neoclassical 169 Baroque and Rococo 116, 117, pannier 146, 149, 200, 433 open 118, 133
Fred Perry 406 open 37 pencil 330, 331, 345, 397, 398–9 padded 206
linen 57, 87, 136, 156, 182 open-toe 273, 323 121, 126, 133, 147 pencil-pleated 250 pagoda 196, 197
mail 28 Oxfords 253, 263, 265, 273, bizarre 133 pleated 52, 86, 95, 107, 228, 250, paned 110, 121, 126
medieval 57 Byzantine 36, 37, 46 piecing (1930s) 274
pirate 407 302, 339 Chinese and Japanese 12, 13, 30, 251, 252, 253, 255, 276, 277, pleated 53
polo 282, 346, 405, 406 patent leather pumps 262 281, 291, 310, 316, 320, 321, puffed 88, 90, 91, 94, 95, 97,
preppy button-down 406 peep-toe 298, 309, 311, 323 31, 143, 188 330, 331, 380, 382
Renaissance 81, 83, 87, 95 platform 94, 111, 337, 372, Edwardian 232, 233, 234 polonaise 219 100, 108, 120, 121, 126, 135,
satin 383 fur-trimmed 243 poodle 314, 344 171, 173, 174, 175, 180, 181,
short-sleeved 336, 345 376, 380, 381, 390, 401, Gazaar 329 pyramid 206 184, 273, 292, 294, 295, 410
silk rollneck 368 421, 426, 427 lingerie 252 quilted field 388 raglan 347, 399
sports 265, 303 pointed 32, 52, 53, 56, 84, 85, Lyons 146 Renaissance 80, 86, 94, 95, Renaissance 80, 81, 84, 86, 88,
stiff bosom 262 142, 169, 341 medieval 44, 48, 51, 52, 55, 61, 110, 111 94, 100
striped 225 poulaine 65, 84 Renaissance male 85, 88, 89, 100 restricting movement 132, 190,
tunic 372 pumps 169, 180, 189, 218, 225, 70, 73 Restoration 135 192, 193
women’s 238, 298, 299 253, 257, 262, 273, 340 New Look 316, 317, 322, 323, 325 riding 214 ruched 233
shirtwaists/shirtwaisters 230, 231, pump (modern) 273, 397, 426 Renaissance 85, 112 ruffled 174, 197, 241, 292, 293 ruffled 140, 141, 145, 157, 189,
red carpet 416 roller-printed 188 safeguard 132, 162 229, 233, 237, 292, 293
316, 317 red-heeled 150, 151 Second Empire 195, 199 Sassanid 30, 31 see-through 244
shoes Renaissance 84, 85, 94, 98, 99, Sicilian 59 Second Empire 195 separate 37, 86
100, 101, 111 Victorian 192, 193 see-through kick panels 396 seven-eighths-length 329
400 years of women’s 426–7 Roman 34, 35 weaves 197 short (1927–8) 253 short 20, 21, 169, 170, 232, 334,
1870s women’s 201 rubber 216 see also brocade; damask; organza; short (power dressing) 397, 398–9 377
1900–14 women’s 229 saddle 347 slightly flaring 273 single 383, 393
1920s men’s 265 sandals 12, 30, 32, 34, 35, 253, satin; taffeta slit 392, 421 slashed 81, 84, 85, 90, 119, 197
1920s women’s 253 265, 273, 282, 376, 427 Silk Road 30, 31, 45, 58 split 233, 244 split 81
1930s women’s 273, 309 slashed 100, 101, 219 silkscreen 377 straight 272 stuffed 103
1940s women’s 309 slippers 211, 427 silver thread 94, 98, 101, 140, Stuart 126 three-quarter length 200, 201,
1950s men’s 339, 341 sneakers 339, 347, 389, 406 support structures 433 320, 345
1970s 376 spiked heels 396 151, 361 tapered 319 tight with open seam 80
ankle-strap sandals 316 square-toed 136, 211 Simmons, Joseph “Run” 406 tiered 192, 200, 207, 293, 380, tight-fitting 49, 53, 56, 61, 64,
ankle-wrap 411 stilettos 315, 388, 398, 426, 427 Simons, Raf 319 405, 410 65, 98, 119, 364, 369
austerity 304 strapped pumps (1920s) 257 Simpson, Wallis 271, 286, 287, trained 170, 171 tippet 56
ballet 245 strapless opera pumps 273 voluminous 253, 319 two-part 73
ballet flats 340 suede 339, 341 294, 297 Women’s Legion 300–1 Virago 126
bar-shoes 241, 250, 251, 252, T-strap 357 Sinatra, Frank 303 wood 410 voluminous 87, 236
tango 223 ska 406 World War II 299, 304, 305 waterfall 401
253, 273 tip-up 142 skater style 412 wrap 345 wide 30, 37, 52, 53, 56, 193
Baroque and Rococo 123, 130, trainers 388, 389, 406, 407 skating wear 231, 347 wraparound 377 Slimane, Hedi 286, 371
two-tone 240, 250, 265, 286, Skeleton dress (1938) 295 see also bustles; dresses; gowns slippers 113
131, 135, 136, 137, 142 288, 303, 341, 405 skinheads 404, 405 skiwear slips, 1920s 252
bathing 231, 261 upturned toes 31, 244 skirts (1901–14) 226, 227 Sloan, Alfred P., Jr 263
block heels 353 wedding 189 (1930s) 281 Small, Susan 317
booties 189 wedge heels 273, 305, 376 (1778–89) 149 (1950s) 346 smiley face emblem 406
bowling 346 wood pattens 73 (1901–16) sports 230, 231 slashing 71, 78, 81, 84, 85, 89, 90, Smith, Will 389, 425
brogues 253, 301, 338, 339 wood slides 337 (1930s) 272, 273 93, 97, 99, 101, 119, 122, 176, smocking 205, 228, 241, 413
brothel creepers 341, 404 wood soled 304 (1948–59) 330–1 197, 218, 219, 390 smocks 124, 138, 139, 364, 371
canvas 227, 230, 288 World War II 304 (1950s) sports 346, 347 sleeve heads Le smoking tuxedo suit 371,
carriage 179 see also boots A-line 31, 239, 292, 322 gathered 72 372, 373
Chinese-style 244 shooting outfits 163, 187, 217, 424 apron 200, 214, 293 pleated 73 snake goddesses 20, 21
corespondent 298, 303 shopping 174 asymmetric 421 sleeveless styles snakeskin 353, 430
cocktail (1950s) 323 shopping malls 335, 385 balloon 329 snoods 87
converse sneakers 389 shorts beach 336, 337 (1870s) 200, 201 Snow, Carmel 314, 319
country 253 bike 407 bell-shaped 99, 179, 192, 234 (1920s) 253, 256–7 social issues 415
crêpe-soled 341 denim 407 bifurcated 215 (1930s) 274, 275, 280 social season 172
Cromwell 253 gym 388 bouffant 322 (1950s) 335 social statements
Cuban heels 229 men’s 216, 282, 283, 336 bustle 199, 202–3 sleeves Baroque and Rococo 150
cutaway sides 309 women’s 270, 281 Chanel 249 Baroque and Rococo 118, 126, medieval age 44, 45, 60–1, 64
dance 290 shoulder lines circular 344 Renaissance 85, 110–11
dancing 152, 218 asymmetric 277 columnar 228, 229 135, 149 socks
Derby 253, 341 broad 179, 208, 239, 295, 319 cone-shaped 206 batwing 245 (1901–14) 224, 226, 227
detachable heels 256, 257 coq 362 ankle 344, 345, 407
cupcake 405
cutoff 413
divided 49, 230, 231, 297
draped 146, 393

474 INDEX

bobby sox 344, 347 Stuart era 118–27, 130–9 1950s 347 Roman 34 Trigère, Paulene 333
Byzantine 37 subucula 34 cable-knit 281, 282 synthetic 274, 297 trimmings
fishnet 401 subversive style 411 chunky homemade 412 techno fabrics 411
golf 283 Sui, Anna 409 Fair Isle 283, 286 technological developments (1837–55) 192, 193
medieval 48 suits striped Breton fisherman’s 395 (1960s) 362
patterned 283 turtleneck 421 117, 166 Baroque and Rococo 131, 145
see also stockings (1685–1720) 136–7 sweatshirts 389, 406 transparent 329 Edwardian 234
Souper Dress (1960s) 352 (1720–70) 150–1 Sweden 116 wash-and-wear 315, 334 Poiret 243
Southampton, Countess of 99 (1840–1900) men’s 210–11 swimwear wool and silk weaves 197 Tristan and Isolde 61
space age 351, 360–1, 373, 410 (1901–14) men’s 224–5 1625–1789 162 see also fabrics by name trompe l’oeil 196, 232, 277
Spain (1914–18) women’s 239, 241 1790–1900 165 Thayaht 266, 267 trousers (see pants)
Baroque and Rococo 121 (1920s) men’s 261, 262–3, 264–5 1900–16 215, 217, 226, 230, 231 theater 233, 243, 290, 351, 382 trousseau 188
Cristóbal Balenciaga 328–9 (1930–40) men’s 288–9 1920s 250, 260–1, 267 Theater de la Mode 311 trunk hose 90, 100, 118, 218
medieval age 47, 58, 59, 61, (1930s) women’s 272, 273, 288 1937–1900 215, 217 Thebes 16, 17, 18 tu-way stretch 274
(1939–45) men’s 302–3 1950–61 227, 336 Theodora, Empress 13, 36 Tudor era 186–9, 292
64, 73, 74 (1939–45) women’s 305 Thira 20 see also Elizabethan age
Moorish kingdom 44, 58 (1940s) women’s 311 Swinging Sixties to Glam Rock Third World cultures 390 Tuffin, Sally 350, 359
New Look 317, 326 (1948–54) women’s 330–1 (1964–70) 348–383 Thursfield, Sarah 40, 62, 70 tulle 195, 234, 246, 293, 325, 344
Renaissance 80, 87, 93, 94, (1950–5) men’s 338–9 time line 350–1 tiaras 256 tunics
(1960s) men’s 366, 367, 368–9 The Tichborne Dole (van Tilborgh) (prehistory–600) 40–41
99, 100, 111 (1980–2012) women’s 396–9 Switzerlands, Renaissance 92 (600–1100) 46, 47, 48, 49
Spanish empire 94, 106 A-line 319 symbolism 134–5 (1100–1200) 52, 53, 56
women 1880s 204, 205 of armor 68, 69, 92, 93 armor and weaponry 29 tie clips 338 (1200–1300) 57, 58, 60, 61
spangles 232, 244, 245, 246, Bar Suit (1947) 316 Renaissance 108–9 tiepins 224, 261 (1300–80) 45, 56, 59, 65, 425
boxy 361 Syon Cope 57 ties (1380–1450) 57, 72, 425
257, 275 business 263 (1450–1500) 81
Spanish Civil War 329 cardigan 251 T (1840–1900) 210 ancient 14, 15
Spartans 28 Chanel 249 (1960s) 366, 367 Byzantine 36, 37
spats 185, 263, 264, 265 demob 303 T-shirts 343, 345, 366 bow 211, 224, 262, 339, 369, 373 Egyptian 18
spaulders 69 dinner 262, 289, 338 ripped 350, 389 butterfly bow 289 Etruscan 32, 33
The Specials 406 double-breasted 225, 265, 289, tabards 39, 168 four-in-hand 263, 265, 288, 303 flared-sleeve (1960s) 367
Spencer “Spen-support” 316 tablion 36, 37 patterned 271, 366, 367 Gaultier 395
spivs 302 302, 303, 366, 368, 424 tabs 99, 209 string 340 Greek 24
sportswear drape 425 taffeta 66, 124, 125, 192, 195, 199, striped 286 jersey (1960s) 367
dress 210 thin black 338 lamp shade 244
(1625–1789) 150, 151, 162–3 French style 264 247, 297, 323, 325, 327, 390 tight knot 405 mail 68, 69
(1979–90) 406, 407 honeymoon 289 tailoring 64, 71, 78, 104, 105, 182, white bow 289 minaret or lamp shade 243
(1985–2010) 388–9 jump suits 372, 373 wide 303 Moorish 58
men’s (1837–1900) 216–17 lounge 224, 234, 264, 265, 286, 184, 186, 210, 228, 264, 288, Windsor tie knot 286 Ottoman 112
men’s (1901-14) 226–7 368, 419 women’s 230, 238, 280, 298, Roman 34, 35
men’s (1931–44) 282–3 288, 303 conceptual 411 Russian-style 230
Regency (1790–1840) 186–7 mod-style 406 for women 330, 331, 396, 397 299, 373 Saxon and Norman 50–1
women’s (1870–1900) 214–15 morning 425 Takada, Kenzo 350, 400 see also cravats short (Saxon) 40
women’s (1901–16) 230–1 New Look 316, 317 tank tops 381, 413 tights 352, 359, 360 side-lacing 58
women’s (1920s) 250, 255, 261 Palm Beach (1920s) 264, 265 Tarquinia 32 thick 290 split 53
women’s (1930s) 280–1 pantsuits (women’s) 359, 371, 372, Tarrant, Frank 227 Tiller Girls 291 straight-cut 131
women’s (1950–60) 346–7 tartan 193, 197, 273, 390 tippets sweater 250, 251
women’s (1990s) 411 373, 397 Tashman, Lilyan 266 fur 63, 125, 168 tunic shirts 372
spurs 93, 119 pinstripe 225, 302, 338, 339, 425 tassels 137, 169, 179, 180, 193, hanging 64 urban-style 407
squirrel fur 61, 73, 75 plus fours (1930s) 284–5 211, 232, 233, 256, 259, 261, tiraz 58 Women’s Legion 300–1
Stack, Mary Bagot 281 power suit (1980s) 398–9 367, 376, 378, 379 Tire 39 turbans
Stack, Prunella 281 reefer 303 Tatsuno, Koji 419 Tischbein, Johann 157 (1400s) 66
Stallion dress (1944) 295 Renaissance three-piece 100–1 Taylor, Elizabeth 314 Titian 87 (1800–09) 171
starching 79, 124 sack 264 team sports 216 togas 32, 34, 35, 36, 170, 417 (1820s) 181, 429
status single-breasted 302, 303, Tears dress (Schiaparelli) 297 Tokyo 400 (1830s) 190, 191
clothing and 85, 88–9, 396–7 tebenna 32 tomboys 252, 255 (1909–26) 243, 244, 245
color and 34, 35, 51, 55 368, 369 teddies 252 tonsure 36, 44, 57 (1920s) 261, 266
stays 94, 132, 133, 135, 139, Le smoking tuxedo suit 371, teddy boys and girls 340–1, 344, Torimaru, Gnuyki 401 (1970s) 376, 382
390, 404, 424 tournaments 69, 93 ancient East 30, 31
144, 145, 432 372, 373 teenagers, 1950s 314, 343, 344–5 Townley Frocks 309 Asian-style 158, 218
collar 206 sports 302 television, influence of 351, 386, tracksuits 388, 389 Moorish 58, 59
half-stays 168 streamlined court suit (1780) 154–5 387, 396 trade 12, 58–9, 78, 83, 106–7, 116 Ottoman 112, 113, 160
whalebone 186 Stresemann 263 Temperley, Alice 412 Traina, Anthony 330 Persian 59
Stepanova, Varvara 266 summer 261 tennis wear trains Renaissance 80, 83
Stephen, John 366 three-piece 210, 211, 224–5, 284– men’s 162, 216, 226, 227, 282 (1870s) 202, 203 Sikh 283
Stewart, Rod 383 women’s 214, 230, 250, 261, (1890s) 209 Turkish style 158, 160–1
Stiebel, Victor 305, 327 5, 303, 338, 368, 425 270, 297, 347, 389 (1901–20) 229, 233, 237, 244 Turlington, Christy 409, 412
stiffening 86, 105, 214 tweed 264, 284–5 terracotta warriors 15 (1920s) 245 Turner, Jessie Franklin 274
stockings white 288 textiles (1930s) 276 Turquerie 160
1920s 253 women’s hiking 231 19th-century 166, 210 (2000s) 416, 417 TuTa 266
artificial silk 240 women’s morning 229 ancient oriental 12, 13, 30, 31 Baroque and Rococo 139, 144, Tutamkhamun 17, 18, 223, 245
bathing 231 women’s wartime 239, 241, 305 Byzantine 36, 37 tutulus 33
flesh and pastel color 240 zoot 271, 340, 341, 407 denim 344, 345, 372, 374 145, 146 tutus 395
Renaissance 104, 105, 111 Suleiman the Magnificent, Sultan 78 diaphanous 292, 293 empire lines 170, 171 tuxedos 224, 286, 338, 371
silk 151, 173, 225, 290 Sumerians 15 distressed 403, 413 fishtails 200–1, 204 tweed 226, 231, 249, 264,
see also socks; tights sumptuary laws 60, 74, 85, 116 Edwardian 232, 234 medieval 66–7
stocks 132, 151, 152, 153, 184, 185 sun tops 336 Egyptian 12, 16 neoclassical 169 284–5, 286, 297, 369, 373,
stola 34, 35, 36, 37, 59 sun visors 389 elastic 336, 337 Regency 174, 175 380, 390
stoles 170, 236, 401 sunglasses 337, 361, 405, 413 Elizabethan 97 Renaissance 80, 81, 86 Twiggy 350, 354–5, 409
stomachers 97, 99, 109, 126, 138, suntans 222, 260 Far East 12, 13, 30, 31 Westwood 390 twills 210, 216, 298
supermodels 408–9 flannel 338, 339 transvestites 290
139, 142 supportasse 104, 118 knit 250–1 Trapeze collection (Saint Laurent) UV
laced 128, 219 surcoats 58, 60, 61, 65, 68, 69, 422 Knitted Circles 377
triangular 98, 140, 141, 144, 145 sideless 64 medieval 44, 45, 46, 48, 58, 315, 371 umbrellas 224, 234, 265, 288,
Strange, Steve 406, 407 surrealism 294–5 59, 60, 66 trapunto (stuffed technique) 341
straps 119, 285 Sutton Hoo 29 metallic 274, 291, 360, 361
Stravinsky, Igor 245 swagging 147, 200 Minoan 20 quilting 295 underdresses
straw hats 149 Swan & Edgar, London 199 Ottoman 112 travel wear (1920s) 257
streamers 63, 65, 246 Swank, Hilary 417 prehistoric 14 (1930s) 275
street cred 389, 420 Swanson, Gloria 249 Regency 172 coats (1820s) 178
street style 1977–2011 384, 404–5 sweater-girl style 344 Renaissance 105, 110 dresses 162, 201, 214, 228, 229 understructures 86, 105, 169,
street-urchin style 401 sweaters roller printing 188 214, 247
Strong, Roy 368 1910s 226 skirt and cape (1890s) 207
strophium 35 1920s 250, 251, 255, 264, 291, 297 Treacy, Philip 429
1930s 280, 281, 282, 286
Les tres riches heures du Duc de

Berry 66–7
triangular shape 86, 87, 96, 98, 99

INDEX 475

undertunics 37, 46, 51 Renaissance 81, 82–3, 87, 95, 112 Walker, Catherine 393 machine-knitted 226, 250–1
see also kirtles trade 58 walking dresses/suits 175, 179, weaves 197
vents, slashed 71 work wear
underpants 228, 252 Ver Luisant (Glow worm) dress 189, 197, 200, 204, 214, 215 deconstructed 401
underwear walking sticks 157, 265 as fashion 314
(1928) 257 Wall Street Crash 270, 272 modernism 266
300 years of shaping the body Vernon, 7th Lord 217 Wang, Alexander 420 women’s 330, 396–9
Veronese, Paolo 107 Wang, Vera 387, 416 World War I 222, 223, 255
432–3 Versace, Donatella 387 Warhol, Andy 352, 394 women’s wear 238–9, 300–1
brassieres 277 Versace, Gianni 387, 392, 393, warriors see armor; military dress World War II 270, 314
display of 46, 47, 51, 80, 81, 84, Watanabe, Junya 400 women’s wear 298–9
409, 417, 420 watch chains 224, 340 Worth, Charles Frederick 182,
85, 87, 95, 99, 109 Versailles 116, 132 Waterloo, Battle of 164, 174
embroidered 109 vests (see waistcoats) waterproofing 187, 216, 297 195, 198–9
medieval linen 72 vestas 83 Watteau, Jean-Antoine 117, Worth, Gaston-Lucien 199, 243
New Look 316 vests, sport 216 Worth, Jean-Philippe 199, 244
as outerwear 390 Victoria, Queen of Great Britain 195, 390 Wranglers 345
sanitary 214 Waugh, Evelyn 23 wrap tops (1920s) 261
tu-way stretch 274 187, 193 weaponry wraps, fur 383
“undress” 147 Victorian era 192–3, 196–7, 200–19 WRENS (Women’s Royal Naval
Ungaro, Emmanuel 329, 357, medieval 68, 69
influence on fashion 293, 364, Renaissance 92, 93 Service) 298
359 376, 377, 401, 405 Weatherbee 356 WRINS (Women’s Royal Indian
uniforms weaving 20, 25, 41, 44, 46, 58,
Victoriana 364 Naval Service) 299
influence on fashion 288, 332 Vienna 236, 237 72, 80, 128 wristbands 413
wartime men’s 299 Vietnam War 350, 374 wedding dresses/gowns Wu, Jason 420
wartime women’s 222, 238–9, Vignon, Madame 197 Wulshaube 80
Vikings 44, 46, 47 (1830s) 189
270, 298–9, 300–1 vintage fashions 412–13 (1850s) 193 XYZ
union suits 264 vinyl 360 (1870s) 200
unisex styles 345, 359, 360, 366, Vionnet, Madeleine 26, 243, 267, (1960s) 320–1, 360 Xuanzang 30
(2011) 413 xystis 24
372, 374, 383 274, 275, 276, 277, 278–9, French Renaissance 99 yachting wear 230, 280
United States 292, 293 medieval 60–1, 74 Yamamoto, Kansai 351, 400
visiting outfit (mid-1900s) 197 New Look 317 Yamamoto, Yohji 400
(1920s) 241 visor, Perspex 360 Venetian Renaissance 94 Yasuhito, Prince Chichibu of
(1935–44) ready-to-wear 308–9 Vogue 294, 304, 315, 325, 354, 409 wedding suits, 1850s 211
(1950–55) men’s suits 338, 339 Voss dress (McQueen) 419 Welch, Raquel 360 Japan 263
(1950s) couture gowns 326, 327 Votre Mode 334 Weller, Paul 405 Yauch, Adam 406
Charles James 324–5 Vreeland, Diana 354 Welles, Orson 282 Yazz & the Plastic Population 407
exotic leisurewear 211 Vrel, Jacobus 128 Wellington, Duke of 164 yellow dyes 38, 56
hippies 374–5 Vuitton, Louis 431 West Indian style 341 Yingpan Man 30
new generation 420 West, Mae 297 Yonekura, Tyoko 397
New Look 316, 317 W Western Han Dynasty 30, 31 York, George, Duke of (later
postwar 310–11, 314 Westwood, Vivienne 97, 385,
postwar evening wear 324–5 WAAF (Women’s Auxiliary George V) 218
Puritans 79, 128 Air Force) 298 390–1, 392, 404, 407, 427 York, Mary of Teck, Duchess of 218
teenagers 344–5 wet look 361 youth revolution 302, 342–3,
World War I 239 Wainwright, Janice 372 white, as sacred color 17
World War II 270, 298, 299 waist cinchers 316 The Who 366 344–5, 350
unwearable designs 411 waistcoats (vests) wide boys 302, 303 YSL 371, 372, 373
upper stocks 100 widgies 344 Zazous 302
US Vogue 165, 310, 354, 386 (1660–85) 131, 135 Wiener Werkstätte 236, 237 zibellino 106, 107
Usher, Frank 327 (1685–1720) 136 wigs ziponi 83
Utility Clothing Scheme 304, (1720–70) 150, 151 zippers 223, 297
(1770–89) 153, 154, 157 bag 151, 152, 153 zoot suits 271, 340, 341, 407
305, 310 (1790–1839) 184, 185 Baroque and Rococo 131, 136, Zurbarán, Francisco de 121, 329
vair 61, 73 (1840–1900) 210
Valentina 308 (1920s) 262, 263 137, 150, 151, 152, 153
Valentino 199, 362, 363 (1950s) 238, 340 bob 150
Valois, Isabel de 99 (1960s) 367, 369 campaign 137, 150
vambrace 68 cropped 338 costume 219
van de Velde, Henry 236 double-breasted 216 double peak 137
van der Weyden, Rogier 75 embroidered 210 Dutch boy (1960s) 361
van Dyck, Anthony 125, 126, 219 fake fur 367 Egyptian 16, 17
van Eyck, Jan 73, 74 knit 412 Nubian 15
van Hulle, Anselmus 129 padded chest 184, 211 powdered 152, 219
van Loo, Charles André 160–1 plus fours suit (1930s) 285 Roman 34
van Noten, Dries 411 Regency 182 The Wild One (movie) 315, 342–3,
Van Riper, Kenneth B. 260 Renaissance 99, 110
van Tilborgh, Gillis 135 slips 224 344
Vanderbilt, Gloria 373 white 262, 263 Wilde, Oscar 167, 205, 213
vandyking 174, 179, 188, 190, women’s (1890s) 207 William IV, King of Great Britain
waistline
191, 218 asymmetrical 291, 416 188
Varden, Dolly 167, 219 cinched 20, 319, 344, 377, 398 William, Prince 419
Varon, Jean 354, 356 draped 274, 277 William of Malmesbury 51
veils dropped 132, 258 Williams, Pharrell 425
dropped, sloping 326 Williamson, Matthew 412
(1820s) 181 dropped V at back 321 Wilson’s of London 251
(1856–69) 196 Egyptian 16, 18 Wimmer-Wisgrill, Eduard Josef 237
(1870s) 200 empire 170–1, 222, 243, 361, 362 wimples 53, 60, 158
(1901–16) 230 high 16, 18, 121, 124, 126, 169, Windsor, Duchess of see Simpson,
(1960s) 320
(2010s) 413 170–1, 174, 175, 176, 229, 233, Wallis
Baroque and Rococo 159 236, 292, 380 Windsor, Duke of see Edward VIII
Byzantine 36, 37, 59 low 240, 246, 252, 253, 255, Winterhalter, Franz Xaver 194–5,
cocktail hats (1950s) 322 256, 261
medieval 48, 49, 52, 53, 56, 64, lower at back 247 198, 292, 293
narrow 188, 190, 192, 193, 208 Winterwerber, Elisabeth 237
65, 74, 75 natural 98, 99, 188, 246, 326 Wintour, Anna 386
Renaissance 80, 81, 94, 111 nipped 64, 185, 186, 214, 310, woad 39, 56
riding 187 311, 316, 317, 320, 330, 331 wolf fur 73
Velázquez, Diego 329 tabbed 99 The Women (movie) 306–7
velours de Lyon 327 wasp 206–7, 215, 234, 316 Women’s League of Health and
velvet 45, 66, 106, 382 wide waistband 335
Vendôme 327 Beauty 281
Venice Women’s Legion 300–1
carnival 108, 158 women’s lib 372
Lido 260 wool 20, 46, 110, 128, 184

476 ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

The original image sources are listed here by page found Knossos, Heraklion Archeological Museum, br); Detail from fresco depicting Argos watching Archive (bl, fbl). Getty Images: Detail from an
number. The publisher would like to thank the Crete / Scott Smith (tr); Fresco from Thira, National over the nymph Io, House of Meleager, Pompeii, illustration of King Canute and his Queen Aelfgifu,
following for their kind permission to reproduce Archaeological Museum, Athens, detail / Jean-Pierre National Archaeological Museum, Naples / Peter taken from the register of Hyde Abbey / Hulton
their photographs: (Key: a-above; b-below/bottom; Lescourret (bc). Getty Images: Minoan ear Barritt (bc, br). Getty Images: Altrendo (tl); Fresco Archive (bc). 49 Alamy Images: Detail from Bayeux
c-center; f-far; l-left; r-right; t-top) pendant, Greece / Danita Delimont (bl). 21 Alamy portraying Jason and Pelias, Pompeii / DEA / A. Dagli Tapestry, depicting English soldier defending a hill at
Images: Men worshipping bare-breasted goddess, Orti (tr). 36 Corbis: Byzantine diptych panel Battle of Hastings, Musée de la Tapisserie Bayeux /
2-3 Corbis: Condé Nast Archive. 4 Fotolia: Yuri Minoan fresco, Heraklion Museum, Crete / The Art depicting the Empress Ariadne / Alinari Archives (r); The Art Archive (bl). The Bridgeman Art Library:
Arcurs (l). Getty Images: Votive relief with Artemis Archive (tl). Corbis: Gianni Dagli Orti (bl); Fresco of Melvyn Longhurst (bc). Getty Images: Empress Detail from Ms Lat 1118, illustration of a dancer,
before god, Kephisos or Cephisus, river god, and a Minoan Priest King at Knossos / National Theodora with her court of two ministers and seven from the Tropary of St. Martial / Bibliotheque
three nymphs / DEA / G. Nimatallah (r). 5 akg- Geographic Society / Maynard Owen Williams (br); women, detail, San Vitale, Ravenna, Italy / The Nationale, Paris, France (tl); Detail from Ms 250
images: Sultane (Jeanne Antoinette Poisson, Faience figurine of the “Snake Goddess,” found Bridgeman Art Library, London (bl). 37 Alamy fol.43v, St. Radegund on a throne, from the Life of
Madame de Pompadour) by Charles André van Loo, Knossos, Heraklion Archeological Museum, Crete / Images: Detail from mosaic depicting holy virgins St. Radegund, Bibliotheque Municipale, Poitiers /
Musée des Arts Décoratifs, Paris (r). Corbis: Detail Scott Smith (tr). 22-23 Corbis: Minoan fresco of bearing offerings to the Virgin, Basilica di Sant Giraudon (r); Collection of Anglo-Saxon and Celtic
of Bayeux Tapestry—fortification construction The Blue Ladies, found Palace of Knossos / Apollinare Nuovo, Ravenna, Italy / Adam Eastland jewelry including gilt bronze mounts, saucer and
underway at Hastings, Musée de la Tapisserie Wolfgang Kaehler. 23 Fotolia: Yuri Arcurs (r). Italy (bl). Corbis: Detail from mosaic of Saint Paul, cruciform brooches and a Merovingian pendant /
Bayeux / Gianni Dagli Orti (l). Getty Images: Ball at 24 Corbis: The Charioteer of Delphi by Pythagoras depicting his flight from Damascus, Cappella private collection, photo © Bonhams, London, UK
the court of King Henri III of France or ball of the of Samos / Ruggero Vanni (br). Getty Images: Palatina, Palazzo dei Normanni, Palermo, Sicily / (br). 50-51 Corbis: Detail of Bayeux Tapestry—
Duke of Alencon, French School, Louvre, Paris / The Red-figure pottery, skyphos by Hieron the potter, Melvyn Longhurst (tc). Getty Images: Detail from fortification construction underway at Hastings,
Bridgeman Art Library (c). 6 Blandford Fashion detail with the capture of Briseis / DEA / G. Dagli mosaic depicting Emperor Justinian I and his retinue Musée de la Tapisserie Bayeux / Gianni Dagli Orti.
Museum (tl). Corbis: Empress Eugenie of France Orti (bl). 25 Corbis: Greek statue of woman from of officials, guards and clergy, San Vitale, Ravenna, 51 Fotolia: Yuri Arcurs. 52 The Bridgeman Art
with ladies of her court by Franz Xaver Winterhalter, Tanagra / Araldo de Luca (bl). Getty Images: Red- Italy / The Bridgeman Art Library (br). Photo Library: Detail from MS Hunter 229 f.4v, Virgo,
Château de Compiègne / The Art Archive (l); Condé figure pottery, Epinetron by Eretria painter depicting SCALA, Florence: Detail from mosaic of The from the Hunterian Psalter / Glasgow University
Nast Archive (c). The Kobal Collection: MGM (r). woman at her toilet, detail / De Agostini (cr); Attic Samaritan Woman at the Well, Church of Sant’ Library, Scotland (br); Museum of Fine Arts, Boston,
7 Corbis: Condé Nast Archive (l). Rex Features: amphora black-figure pottery, detail from Vulci, Italy Apollinare Nuovo, Ravenna, Italy / Ministero Beni e Mass., USA (bl). Corbis: Detail from Moralia in Job
Paul Massey (r). TopFoto.co.uk: Colin Jones (c). / DEA / G. Dagli Orti (tl, br); The Charioteer of Att. Culturali (tl). 38 Corbis: Painted reproduction by Pope Gregory the Great, historiated initial ‘R’
8-9 Corbis: WWD / Condé Nast. 10 Getty Delphi by Pythagoras of Samos, detail, National of the statue of Paris the archer, National depicting a knight fighting a dragon / The Gallery
Images: Empress Theodora with her court of two Archaeological Museum, Athens / Leemage / Archaeological Museum, Athens / Reuters (bl); Collection (r). 53 The Bridgeman Art Library:
ministers and seven women, detail San Vitale, Universal Images Group (bc); Statue of a lady, Kore, Detail of mummy mask of a woman wearing a Detail from Moralia in Job by Pope Gregory the
Ravenna, Italy / The Bridgeman Art Library, London. Acropolis Museum, Athens / DEA / G. Dagli Orti (tl, flower garland, Meir, Egypt / Sandro Vannini (br). Great / Bibliotheque Nationale, Paris, France (br);
12-14 Getty Images: Datacraft (t). 12-13 Fotolia: br). 26 Fotolia: Yuri Arcurs (l). 26-27 Getty Getty Images: Detail from Etruscan black-figure Detail from a wedding chest depicting a musician
Yuri Arcurs. 12 Alamy Images: The Art Archive Images: Votive relief with Artemis before god, amphora depicting the Judgment of Paris, Staatliche and a dancer / Vannes Cathedral, France (tc); From
(cra). Corbis: Nathan Benn (cr); Frans Lemmens Kephisos or Cephisus, river god, and three nymphs / Antikensammlung, Munich, Germany / DEA / C. “Passionale” f. 218v, detail of an inhabited intial ‘T’
(bc). 13 Alamy Images: Men worshipping bare- DEA / G. Nimatallah. 28 Brendan Donovan: Moessner (tr). 39 Alamy Images: Detail of wall depicting a man playing a rebec / British Library (tr);
breasted goddess, Minoan fresco, Heraklion Terracotta soldier, Heraklion Museum of painting depicting Semite women from Beni Hasan, From Hunterian Psalter, Ms Hunter 229 f.8r,
Museum, Crete / The Art Archive (c). Dorling Archaeology, Crete (r). Getty Images: Feathered Egypt / www.BibleLandPictures.com (bc). Corbis: depicting expulsion from paradise / Glasgow
Kindersley: The Trustees of the British Museum fabric headdress, Peru, Chimu culture, Museo Gianni Dagli Orti (tc); Detail from fresco in the University Library, Scotland (bc). Getty Images:
(cra, br). Getty Images: Detail from Etruscan black- Preistorico Etnografico Pigorini, Rome / DEA / G. House of Marcus Lucretius Fronto, Pompeii / Mimmo Detail from Liber Feudorum: marriage scene,
figure amphora depicting the Judgment of Paris, Nimatallah (bl); Small bronze votive statue, National Jodice (tl); Detail from fresco representing the Archivo de la Corona de Aragon, Barcelona, Spain /
Staatliche Antikensammlung, Munich, Germany / Archaeological Museum, Florence / DEA / M. Carrieri initiation into the cult of Dionysus, Villa of the The Bridgeman Art Library (tl, bl); From panel door,
DEA / C. Moessner (crb); Detail of antechamber (bc). 29 Alamy Images: Helmet fragment from Mysteries, Pompeii / Frederic Soltan (br). Getty depicting an exorcism, Church of San Zeno
fresco, Queen Nefertari playing Senet, Tomb of Sutton Hoo Treasure, British Museum / The Art Images: Detail from transporting ceramics (painted Maggiore, Verona, Italy / The Bridgeman Art Library
Nefertari, Egypt / DEA / G. Dagli Orti (bl). 14 akg- Gallery Collection (bc); Gundestrup Cauldron, silk), Topkapi Palace Museum, Istanbul / The (tl, bl). 54 The Bridgeman Art Library: From
images: Scythian rider, detail, carpet found at Danish National Museum, Copenhagen, detail / Bridgeman Art Library (bl). 40 The Bridgeman Art fresco royal cortege, Isabella of Angoulême and
Pasyryk, Kurgan 5 tomb, Ostaltai Mountain / State David Levenson (tc); Scottish stone warrior, Library: Detail from Cott Tib B V f.5 peasants Eleanor of Aquitaine, Chapel of St. Radegund,
Hermitage, St. Petersburg / Erich Lessing (bc). gravestone West Highlands of Scotland / UK / Alan tending sheep / British Library (ca). 41 Getty Chinon, France / De Agostini Picture Library.
Dorling Kindersley: The Trustees of the British King (br). Corbis: Side view of west pediment Images: Detail from marble bas-relief of Ludovisi 55 akg-images: (cr). The Bridgeman Art Library:
Museum (bl). Getty Images: Bronze statuette of sculpture from Temple of Aphaia / Alfredo Dagli Orti throne depicting the birth of Aphrodite, Museo From window at Basilique Saint-Denis, France,
tribe chief wearing a cloak, with a sword and a / The Art Archive (tl). Dorling Kindersley: The Nazionale Romano, Rome / Leemage / Universal depicting Moses saved from the water / Giraudon
stick, from Mount Arcosu, Uta, Museo Archeologico Trustees of the British Museum (cra). Getty Images: Images Group (br). 42-43 Corbis: Brooklyn (c, br); Detail from a wedding chest depicting a
Nazionale, Sardinia / DEA / M. Carrieri (r). 15 Alamy Etruscan-Corinthian alabastron depicting a warrior Museum. 44-45 Fotolia: Yuri Arcurs. 44 The musician and a dancer / Vannes Cathedral, France
Images: Scythian Persian archer and trumpet by figure, painted by the Pescia romana Painter, British Bridgeman Art Library: From mosaic depicting (bl); From St. Clotilda and Clovis I, Church Notre-
Psiax, detail / Ancient Art & Architecture Collection Museum London / DEA Picture Library (bl). Christ Crowning King Roger II of Sicily, La Dame of Corbeil, Musée des Monuments Francais,
Ltd (tc). The Bridgeman Art Library: Dancer of 30 Corbis: Western Han Dynasty oil lamp with Martorana, Palermo, Sicily / Seat Alinari (br). Paris / Giraudon (c, br). 56 The Bridgeman Art
goddess Demeter, Scythian, made of gold / Boltin kneeling servant girl / Asian Art & Archaeology Inc. Corbis: Bettmann (bc); Stapleton Collection (c). Library: From Add 42130 f.163v, Luttrell Psalter,
Picture Library (tl). Corbis: Detail of the Stele of (bl); Xuanzang returning from his pilgrimage to Getty Images: De Agostini (cra). 45 Alamy women bearing vessels / British Library (tr); From
Ur-Nammu showing King Ur-Nammu making an India to recover Buddhist texts / Lebrecht Music & Images: Detail of The Depiction of Christ in the “Liber notabilium Philippi Septimi, francorum regis,
offering to the moon god Nannar / Bettmann (bl); Arts (bc); Masked Caucasoid mummy from Tarim Temple, Hans Holbein the Elder / The Art Gallery a libris Galieni extractus,” by Guy of Pavia, Ms
Terracotta warrior with color still remaining, Basin, Xinjiang, Uygur utonomous region, Bureau of Collection (cr). The Bridgeman Art Library: From 334/569 fig.18, doctor taking the pulse of a patient,
Emperor Qin Shihuangdi’s Tomb, Xian, Shaanxi, Cultural Heritage, China (br). Getty Images: detail Roman du Roy Meliadus de Leonnoys, Ms Add Musée Conde, Chantilly / Giraudon (bc). Corbis:
China / Keren Su (bc). Getty Images: Gold lunula, from transporting ceramics (painted silk), Topkapi 12228 f.202v, Merlin tutoring Arthur / British Library From Apse Mosaic of San Clemente, Rome / Alfredo
found by Ross C. Westmeath, Eire, National Palace Museum, Istanbul / The Bridgeman Art (c). Courtesy of the Portable Antiquities Dagli Orti / The Art Archive (tc); From manuscript
Museum of Ireland, Dublin / The Bridgeman Art Library (tr). 31 Alamy Images: TAO Images Limited Scheme: (cla). 46 Alamy Images: Detail from depicting dyers immersing bolt of cloth in vat of dye
Library, London (br); DEA / A. Dagli Orti (tr). 16 The (c). Corbis: Asian Art & Archaeology Inc. (tr); Tibor painting showing the peoples of the world adoring placed over a fire, British Museum, London /Heritage
Bridgeman Art Library: Beadnet dress, from Tomb Bognar (bl, br); Sassanian bas-reliefs, Taq-é Bostan, Otto III, from the Gospels of Otto III / World History Images (bl). Getty Images: From “Historia
G 2342 D (now G 5520 D) Giza, Old Kingdom Kermanshah, Iran, detail / Tibor Bognar (bl, br). Archive (br). Corbis: Brooklyn Museum (bl). Getty Naturalis,” depicting Pliny the Elder, detail of
(faience), Museum of Fine Arts Boston, Mass. / Getty Images: detail from transporting ceramics Images: Detail from Ms Cim.4453 f.42r, Holy frontispiece to Book I, Biblioteca Marciana, Venice /
Harvard University, Museum of Fine Arts Expedition (painted silk), Topkapi Palace Museum, Istanbul / Roman Emperor Otto III Enthroned, Bayerische The Bridgeman Art Library (br). 57 Alamy Images:
(bl). Corbis: Small standing statuette of a priest The Bridgeman Art Library (tl). 32 Corbis: Mural Staatsbibliothek, Munich, Germany / The Bridgeman From Moralia in Job by Saint Gregory, Saint Gregory
found in Saqqara in 1872, Egypt / Sandro Vannini painting on the wall of an Etruscan tomb in Art Library (bc). 47 Alamy Images: Detail from offering his book to Bishop Leander, folio 5R,
(br). Getty Images: Wood sculpture of female Tarquinia, Rome, detail / Charles & Josette Lenars manuscript “Codex Legum Longobardorum” Bibliothèque Municipale, Dijon / The Art Archive
offering bearer from Thebes, Egypt / DEA / A. (tc); Detail of a woman from Tomb of the Jugglers depicting Frankish King and Emperor Ludovic / The (br). The Bridgeman Art Library: From fresco in
Jemolo (t); Detail of antechamber fresco, Queen fresco cycle, Tarquinia, Rome / Charles Lenars (bc). Art Archive (tr); Detail from The Sacramentary of Palazzo Pubblico, Siena, effects of good government
Nefertari playing Senet, Tomb of Nefertari, Egypt / Getty Images: DEA / G. Nimatallah (clb); DEA / G. Metz: a Frankish prince between two ecclesiastics, in the countryside / Alinari (c); From fresco in San
DEA / G. Dagli Orti (bc). 17 Corbis: Detail of fresco, Dagli Orti (bl). 33 Corbis: Detail of Tomb of the Snark Archives, France / Photos 12 (c). The Giacomo, Castelaz, Termeno, St. James entering a
scribe offering flowers to the god of the west, Egypt Augurs at Tarquinii, Italy / Alfredo Dagli Orti / The Bridgeman Art Library: Detail from Lord and house during a meal, from the Story of St. James /
/ Gianni Dagli Orti (bl). Dorling Kindersley: The Art Archive (bc); Detail from an Etruscan vase, vassal, from “Liber Feodorum Major” / Archivo de la Seat Alinari (bl). Corbis: From Breviaire d’Amour,
Trustees of the British Museum (crb, cr). Getty Etruscan Museum, Rome, 2005 / Reuters (bl); Corona de Aragon, Barcelona, Spain (bl). Corbis: French Breviary Illumination of the month of March /
Images: Tutankhamen and wife Ankhesenamon Statuette of the Etruscan Goddess Turan / Gianni Wooden carving from Hylestad stave church, Gianni Dagli Orti (tl); David Lees (tr). 58 The
protected by solar disk on throne, from Treasure of Dagli Orti (r). Getty Images: Detail showing Norway, showing scene from the story of Sigurd: Bridgeman Art Library: From Ms Grec 2144
Tutankhamen, Egypt / DEA / S. Vannini (tl); Detail of crowned Dionysus and Ariadne, red-figure pottery, Regin the Smith reforges the broken sword, Apocauchus, Bibliothèque Nationale de France, Paris
the Book of the Dead of Heruben, Egypt / DEA / A. Krater, from Civita Castellana, ancient Falerii, Rome Universitetets Oldsaksamling, Oslo / Heritage Images / Archives Charmet (bl); Miniature in a book of
Dagli Orti (bc); Mural of prince and wife at Tomb of province, Italy / DEA / G. Nimatallah (tc). 34 Alamy (tl). 48 The Bridgeman Art Library: Detail from music from the Cantigas of Alfonso X the Wise,
Senneferi detail, Shaykh Abd al-Qurnah, Ancient Images: Detail of marble statue of a woman of manuscript Cott Tib C VI f.30v, David playing his 124-0633321/1, A Moor and a Christian playing the
Thebes, Egypt / DEA / G. Dagli Orti (cra). imperial period from Aptera, Archaeological harp, from the Tiberius Psalter, Winchester / British lute, Monasterio de El Escorial, El Escorial / Index (r).
18 Blandford Fashion Museum (br). Getty Museum Istanbul / The Art Archive (cla). Corbis: Library (tr, br); Detail from manuscript Aa 21 fol.2v, 59 akg-images: Coronation robe of Roger II, detail
Images: Bust of Queen Nefertiti of Egypt, Neues Portrait of Aulus Gabinius from Herculaneum / dedication of the book to Christ, from the Gospel of showing lion’s head, Treasure Chamber, Palermo /
Museum, Berlin 2011 / AFP (cl); Female torso, Bettmann (bl); Detail of fresco painting in House of Countess Judith / Landes Bibliothek, Filda (tc); Detail Erich Lessing (br). The Bridgeman Art Library:
probably Queen Nefertiti, Louvre, Paris / The the Vettii, Pompeii / Steven Vidler / Eurasia Press (br). from manuscript Add 33241 f.1v-2 from Encomium From The Book of Kalila and Dimna from “The
Bridgeman Art Library, London (c). 19 Corbis: Relief 35 Alamy Images: Hunting mosaic Villa Romana of Queen Emma or Gesta Cnutonis, author offering Fables of Bidpay,” Fol.101, A woman beseeching
of a royal couple in the Armana style, Agyptisches del Casale, Piazza Armerina, Sicily / Peter Barritt (bl). his book to Queen Emma / British Library (tr, br). the Sultan, Egyptian National Library, Cairo /
Museum und Papyrussammlung. 20 Corbis: Corbis: Detail from fresco depicting Artemis Corbis: Detail from De Rerum Naturis: man buying Giraudon (bl); From “Book of Games, Chess, Dice
Sarcophagus of Hagia Triada: libation and ritual sending a deer to spare the sacrifice of Iphigenia, a goose / Alfredo Dagli Orti / The Art Archive (bl, and Boards,” Alfonso X The Wise, King of Leon and
offerings to the deceased, detail / Gianni Dagli Orti House of Tragic Poet, Pompeii, National fbl); Detail from De Rerum Naturis: woman drawing Castile playing a game of chess, Biblioteca
(br); Faience figurine of the “Snake Goddess,” Archaeological Museum, Naples / Peter Barritt (bc, water from a well / Alfredo Dagli Orti / The Art Monasterio del Escorial / Index (tl); From fresco in

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS 477

the King’s Church, depicting the presentation of the Portrait by Jan van Eyck / National Gallery London the Journey of the Magi cycle in the chapel, Elizabeth Vernon, Countess of Southampton,
virgin in the temple / Krakjeva Crkva, Studenica (bl); From the Virgin Mary with her classmates Benozzo di Lese di Sandro Gozzoli, Palazzo Medici- English School / Fitzwiliam Museum, University of
Monastery, Serbia (tc); From mosaic depicting Christ showing needlework samplers to their teacher, Riccardi, Florence / The Bridgeman Art Library (tr). Cambridge (tc); Mrs. Penobscot in the manner of
crowning King Roger II of Sicily, La Martorana, detail from the Altarpiece of the Virgin and St. 86 The Bridgeman Art Library: Portrait of Mette Daniel Mytens, The Vyne Hampshire UK / National
Palermo, Sicily / Seat Alinari (tr); From Birds’ Head George, San Francesco, Vilafranca Penedes, Spain / (Mathildis) von Munchhausen, by Ludger Tom Ring Trust Photographic Library (bc); Portrait presumed to
Haggadah / The Israel Museum, Jerusalem, Israel Index (tc); Effigy of Beatrice Fitzalan, wife of the 5th the Younger / Hamburger Kunsthalle, Hamburg, be Henrietta Maria of France, French School,
(bc). 60 The Bridgeman Art Library: From De Arte Earl of Arundel, Fitzalan Chapel / His Grace The Germany (t); From La Coche ou le Debat d’Amour Château de Versailles France / Giraudon (br).
Venandi cum Avibus, Pal Lat 1071 Frederick II, two Duke of Norfolk, Arundel Castle (tr). Getty Images: Ms 522/1878 fol.11, Marguerite de Valois 100 Corbis: Philip II of Spain by Titian and
horsemen with falcons / Vatican Library, Rome (b). From Roman du Chevalier Tristan, by the Master of presenting her book to Anne de Pisseleu Duchesse Workshop, Palazzo Pitti, Florence / Arte & Immagini
60-61 Getty Images: Miniature from the Decretals, Charles of Maine, Isolde with her ladies in waiting, d’Etampes / Musée Condé, Chantilly (bc). Corbis: slr (tr). Getty Images: Don Carlos son of King Philip
compiled by Giovanni d’Andrea under the direction Musée Condé, Chantilly / Leemage / Universal Jane Seymour by Hans Holbein the Younger, II of Spain by Alonso Sanches Coello,
of Pope Gregory IX, Bibliothèque Municipale, Laon, Images Group (br). 75 The Bridgeman Art Kunsthistorisches Museum, Vienna / The Gallery Kunsthistorisches Museum, Vienna / The Bridgeman
France / Leemage / Universal Images Group (tc). Library: From fresco The Nine Worthies and the Collection (br). Getty Images: Portrait of Catherine Art Library (c, br); From fresco Invitation to the
61 akg-images: Pellote de Infanta don Fernando Nine Worthy Women, Castello della Manta, Saluzzo, Parr by Hans the Younger Holbein / The Bridgeman Dance, by Giovanni Antonio Fasolo, Villa Caldogno-
de la Cerda, Burgos / Album / Oronoz (tr). The Italy / Alinari (tr); From April, Les Très Riches Heures Art Library (bl). 87 The Bridgeman Art Library: Nordera, Caldogna, Italy / The Bridgeman Art Library
Bridgeman Art Library: From a miniature from du Duc de Berry Ms 65/1284 f.4v, courtly figures in Portrait of a Lady by Giovanni Battista Moroni / (c, br). 101 Corbis: Charles IX of France by Francois
Tristan, by Gottfried von Strassburg, King Mark the castle grounds, Musée Condé, Chantilly / National Gallery London (tc); The Miracle of the Clouet, Musée Condé Chantilly France / Burstein
exiles Tristan and Isolde and King Mark finds Tristan Giraudon (br). Corbis: From The Descent from the Speech of the Newborn Child by Titian / Scuola del Collection (bl). Getty Images: Gian Gerolamo
and Isolde sleeping in a cave, Bayerische Cross by Rogier van der Weyden, Museo del Prado, Santo, Padua, Italy (tr); Portrait of the Empress Grumelli by Giovanni Battista Moroni, collection of
Staatsbibliothek, Munich / De Agostini Picture Madrid / The Gallery Collection (tl). SuperStock: Isabella of Portugal by Titian / Prado, Madrid (br). Count Antonio Moroni Bergamo, Italy / The
Library (bl); Pierpont Morgan Library, New York (br). The Magdalen Reading, detail by Rogier van der Corbis: Flemish Tapestry Tournament / Bass Bridgeman Art Library (r); Prince elector, August I of
Corbis: From Book of Games by Alfonso X King of Weyden, National Gallery, London / Fine Art Images Museum of Art (tl). Getty Images: Philip II and Saxony, called the pious by Lucas Cranach the
Spain, detail depicting two ladies playing chess / (c). 76-77 Photograph by John Chase: Olive Mary I by Hans Eworth or Ewoutsz, Trustees of the Young, Vienne Kunsthistorisches Museum, Austria /
Gianni Dagli Orti (bc). 64 The Bridgeman Art Matthews Collection, Chertsey Museum. 78 Alamy Bedford Estate, Woburn Abbey / The Bridgeman Art Leemage / Universal Images Group (tc). 102-103
Library: From Luttrell Psalter, Add 42130 fol.76v, a Images: Zuma Wire Service (cb). The Bridgeman Library (bl); From Emperor Maximilian II, his wife Getty Images: Ball at the court of King Henri III of
King and Lady seated in a garden playing a board Art Library: Portrait of a man in red, Flemish School Maria of Spain and children Anna, Rudolf and Ernst France or ball of the Duke of Alencon, French
game resembling backgammon / British Library (tc, / The Royal Collection © 2011 Her Majesty Queen by Giuseppe Arcimboldo, Portraitgalerie Schloss School, Louvre, Paris / The Bridgeman Art Library.
tr, br); From Golden Haggadah, Barcelona, Add Elizabeth II (cra). Getty Images: Man Holding an Ambras, Innsbruck, Austria / Hulton Archive (bc). 103 Fotolia: Yuri Arcurs. 104 Corbis: The
27210 f.15r, preparations for the Passover / British Apple by Raphael, Galleria degli Uffizi Florence / The 88 Corbis: Singers, engraving by Marcantonio Sutherland Portrait of James VI of Scotland by John
Library (tc, tr, br); From Le Roman de la Rose, le Bridgeman Art Library (cla); Lady with brocade dress, Raimondi / Historical Picture Archive (bl). Getty de Critz the Elder / Fine Art Photographic Library (tr);
testament, by Jean de Meung, Ms 482/665 f.1, the from “The Book of the Tailor,” plate 94 / De Images: The Ambassadors by Hans Holbein the Edward Sackville, 4th Earl of Dorset by William
lover sleeping, dressing, sewing his sleeve and Agostini (bc). 79 Alamy Images: Cultivation of Younger, National Gallery London / The Bridgeman Larkin, Ranger’s House, Blackheath, UK / The Gallery
standing at the house of love’s pleasure, Musée cochineal insects on prickly pear, Codex Art Library (r). 89 The Bridgeman Art Library: Collection (c). 105 The Bridgeman Art Library:
Condé, Chantilly / Giraudon (bl); From Dream of the Kingsborough, illustrated manuscript, Mexico / The Portrait of a man in red, Flemish School / The Royal Edward Somerset, 4th Earl of Worcester from
Orchard Keeper, Roy 19 C IV f.298. Charles V Art Archive (cla, ca); Laughing Cavalier by Frans Collection © 2011 Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II Queen Elizabeth I Being Carried in Procession (Eliza
enthroned in the garden with crown and sceptre / Hals, Wallace Collection, London / Superstock (br); (tr); Henry, Duke of Saxony by Lucas Cranach the Triumphans) by Robert Peake / private collection (bl).
British Library (tc, tr, br). Getty Images: Detail of Pope Pius V at prayer, artist unknown, Santa Corona Elder, Gemaeldegalerie Alte Meister, Dresden, Corbis: Portrait of a Man (The Tailor) by Giovanni
two falconers, from the Stag Room, Palais des church Vicenza / The Art Archive (cla, ca). Getty Germany / Staatliche Kunstsammlungen Dresden Battista Moroni, National Gallery London / The
Papes, Avignon / The Bridgeman Art Library (bc). Images: Portrait of gentlewoman by unknown (tl). Corbis: Portrait of King Henry II, French School, Gallery Collection (br). Getty Images: A Young
65 The Bridgeman Art Library: From Roman du Venetian artist / DEA / A. Dagli Orti (cl). V&A Musée Condé Chantilly / Alfredo Dagli Orti / The Art Man Leaning Against a Tree Among Roses by
Roy Meliadus de Leonnoys, Ms Add 12228 f.202v, Archive (bc); Archduke Karl II of Austria, Nicholas Hilliard, Victoria & Albert Museum London
Merlin tutoring Arthur / British Library (bl, r); From Images \ Victoria and Albert Museum, London: Kunsthistorisches Museum / Austrian Archives (br). / The Bridgeman Art Library (tr); King Henri III of
Ms Fr 1584 f.D, the author receiving Love who Getty Images: Archduke Ferdinand of Tirol, son of France by Francois Quesnel, Portraitgalerie Schloss
brings to him sweet thoughts, pleasure and hope, (bl). 80 Alamy Images: Engraving The Ill Assorted the Holy Roman Emperor Ferdinand I by Jakob Ambras Innsbruck, Austria / Hulton Archive (tl).
Bibliothèque nationale de France, Paris / Giraudon Couple by Albrecht Dürer, Victoria & Albert Seisenegger, Kunsthistorisches Museum, Vienna / World Digital Library (WDL): Tailor’s pattern from
(tl); From St. Alban’s Chronicle, Cotton Nero D VIII Museum, London / V&A Images (tr). The The Bridgeman Art Library (tc). 90 © Abegg- Juan de Alcega, Libro de geometria, practica y traça,
fol.7, Queen Matilda holding a charter / British Bridgeman Art Library: From Devotionary of Stiftung, CH-3132 Riggisberg: Rüstkammer, (“Book on Geometry, Practice and Patterns”) c1580.
Library (bl, r). Getty Images: Medieval leather Queen Juana the Mad, Ms 604/1339 f.30v, Queen Staatliche Kunstsammlungen Dresden, inv. no. i.1, Publ Guillermo Drouy, Madrid, http://www.wdl.org/
shoes, Museum of London / The Bridgeman Art Isabella of Castile / Musée Condé, Chantilly (br). photo: Christoph von Viràg (bl, cb, bc, r). 91 © en/item/7333/ (bc). 106 The Bridgeman Art
Library (br). 66-67 Corbis: April from Les Trés Corbis: From Portrait of a Lady by workshop of Library: Giuseppe da Porto and his Son Adriano by
Riches Heures du Duc de Berry, Musée Condé, Rogier van der Weyden, National Gallery London / Abegg-Stiftung, CH-3132 Riggisberg: Veronese (Paolo Caliari) / Galleria Degli Uffizi,
Chantilly / Heritage Images. 66 Fotolia: Yuri Arcurs The Gallery Collection (c). Getty Images: Portrait of Florence (tr); Elizabeth I, “The Hampden Portrait,”
(l). 68 Alamy Images: From Bayeux Tapestry, a Lady in Red, Anon, National Gallery, London / The Rüstkammer, Staatliche Kunstsammlungen Dresden, Anglo-Flemish School / private collection / photo ©
Norman archer at the Battle of Hastings, Musée de Bridgeman Art Library (cl, bc); From Roman du Saint inv. no. i.1, photo: Christoph von Viràg (l, crb, tr, Philip Mould Ltd, London (c). Getty Images: From
la Tapisserie Bayeux / The Art Archive (bc, tr); From Graal Ms 527 fol.1r, court ball, Bibliothèque cra, cr, br). 92 akg-images: From Charles V, Holy the tapestry The Lady and the Unicorn: “Smell,”
Manesse Codex, Walther von Klingen and Ulrich von Municipale, Dijon, France / The Bridgeman Art Roman Empire process through Bologna after the Musée National du Moyen Age et des Thermes de
Liechstenstein, noble German knights, jousting in a Library (cl, bc). 81 Alamy Images: The Print coronation of the Emperor by Hans Burgkmair (tr). Cluny, Paris / The Bridgeman Art Library (bl, br);
tournament, University Library Heidelberg / The Art Collector (tl). Corbis: Detail of Birth of the Virgin by Getty Images: Hulton Archive (br). 93 Alamy Portrait of a Young Girl by Adriaen van der Linde,
Archive (bc, tr). The Bridgeman Art Library: From Domenico Ghirlandaio, Santa Maria Novella, Images: Interfoto (tl). Corbis: Robert Radcliffe, Earl private collection / The Bridgeman Art Library (bl,
Cotton Nero D VI fol.31, Edward III granting the Florence, Italy / Alinari Archives (tc); From couple of Sussex by Marcus Gheeraerts the Younger, Royal br). 107 Bayerische Staatsbibliothek:
Black Prince the principality of Aquitaine / British talking in their bedroom, folio 17R of 1475 French Armouries / Heritage Images (br); Alessandro de’ Kostümbuch—Kopie nach dem Trachtenbuch des
Library (br). 69 The Bridgeman Art Library: From manuscript book of miniatures, Musée Condé, Medici by Giorgio Vasari, Uffizi Gallery, Firenze / Christoph Weiditz—BSB Cod.icon. 342 (tc).
Westminster Psalter, Roy 2 A XXII f.220, kneeling Chantilly / Alfredo Dagli Orti / The Art Archive (tr); Summerfield Press (tc). Getty Images: Philip II The Bridgeman Art Library: Duchess Katharina of
crusader with his horse behind him / British Library Courtly Life or “La Vie Seigneuriale,” Musée (1527-98) of Spain by Sir Anthonis van Dashorst Mecklenburg by Lucas Cranach the Elder,
(tc). Corbis: Manuscript illustration of a joust National du Moyen Age et des Thermes de Cluny, Mor, Prado, Madrid / The Bridgeman Art Library (bl). Gemaeldegalerie Alte Meister, Dresden / Staatliche
between Jean Chalons, an Englishman, and Loys de Paris / Francis G. Mayer (bl); Manuscript illumination 94 Corbis: Laura da Pola by Lorenzo Lotto, Kunstsammlungen Dresden (tr); Portrait of Countess
Beul of France at Tours, Royal Armouries Museum, depicting author dedicating French translation of Pinacoteca di Brera, Milan / Alinari Archives (bl). Livia da Porto Thiene and her Daughter, Portia by
Leeds / Heritage Images (br). Getty Images: From book to unknown woman by Giovanni Boccaccio / Getty Images: Anna of Austria, Queen consort of Veronese / Walters Art Museum, Baltimore, USA (l).
The Temple Pyx, Burrell Collection, Glasgow / The Historical Picture Archive (br). 82-83 The Spain and Portugal / DEA / G. Nimatallah (r). 95 The Getty Images: Detail from a portrait of Anne
Bridgeman Art Library (tl, tr); From tomb plaque of Bridgeman Art Library: The Miracle of the Relic of Bridgeman Art Library: Portrait of an unknown Boleyn, English School, Loseley Park, Guildford,
Geoffrey Plantagenet from the Cathedral of St. the True Cross on the Rialto Bridge by Vittore lady by Alonso Sanchez Coello / Chatsworth House, Surrey, UK / The Bridgeman Art Library (br). 108 The
Julien, Musée de Tessé, Le Mans / The Bridgeman Carpaccio, Galleria dell’ Accademia, Venice / Derbyshire, UK (bl). Corbis: Princess Elizabeth, Bridgeman Art Library: Kippell’s costume book by
Art Library (tl, tr); From Capodilista Codex, knight Giraudon. 83 Fotolia: Yuri Arcurs. 84 The Daughter of James I attributed to Marcus Niclauss Kippell, MS W. 477 fol.16 / Walters Art
with green and white shields on red horse, Bridgeman Art Library: From the Coronation of Gheeraerts the Younger / The Gallery Collection (br). Museum, Baltimore, USA (bc). Corbis: Hand
Biblioteca Civica, Padua / SuperStock (bc). 72 The Richard II to 1387 Vol III by Jean de Batard Wavrin Getty Images: Ann of Denmark, the wife of the colored engraving by Theodor de Bry After Pictish
Bridgeman Art Library: From fresco The Fountain Roy, 14 E IV f.244v, Duke of Lancaster dines with Prince elector August of Saxony by Lucas Cranach Woman Warrior by John White / The Mariners’
of Life, detail of people arriving and bathing in the the King of Portugal / British Library (bl). Corbis: the Young, Vienne Kunsthistorisches Museum Museum (tr). Getty Images: Leo X, Cardinal Luigi
fountain, Castello della Manta, Saluzzo / Alinari (tr); Woodcut print showing medieval medical Austria / Leemage / Universal Images Group (tc). de Rossi and Giulio de Medici by Raphael, Galleria
Paul Freeman (bl); From Tacuinum Sanitatis, Nouv practioners with an injured patient, detail / 96 The Bridgeman Art Library: Queen Elizabeth degli Uffizi, Florence / The Bridgeman Art Library
Acq Lat 1673 fol.18, Harvesting Lemons, Stapleton Collection (br); Courtly Life or “La Vie I—The Pelican Portrait by Nicholas Hilliard / Walker (bl); From Saint Catherine and Saint Marguerite,
Bibliothèque Nationale de France, Paris / Archives Seigneuriale,” The Departure for the Hunt, Musée Art Gallery, National Museums Liverpool. Flemish School, Louvre, Paris / SuperStock (br).
Charmet (c); From Roman de la Rose, Ms Fr 12595 National du Moyen Age et des Thermes de Cluny, 97 Corbis: Queen Elizabeth I of England, copy of 109 Alamy Images: An unknown lady in fancy
fol.27v, Bel Accueil Smelling a Rose, Bibliothèque Paris / Francis G. Mayer (c, tr); From The Miracle of “Rainbow” portrait attributed to M. Gheeraerts or dress also known as The Persian Lady by Marcus
Nationale de France, Paris / Flammarion (br). 73 The Saint Quentin: a thief steals the horse from a priest’s Isaac Oliver at Hatfield House, Musée du Château Gheeraerts the Younger, Hampton Court Palace, UK
Bridgeman Art Library: From Roman de la Rose, stable, MR R 825 Louvre, Departement des Objets de Versailles / The Art Archive (cr); Queen Elizabeth I / The Art Gallery Collection (tr); Queen Elizabeth I by
Ms Fr 12595 fol.17, The God of Love Returns the d’Art, Paris / Francis G. Mayer (c, tr). 85 The in Coronation Robes, National Portrait Gallery studio of Nicholas Hilliard, Hardwick Hall, The
Golden Key / Bibliotheque Nationale, Paris, France Bridgeman Art Library: From Guild Book of the London / The Gallery Collection (bc); English gold Devonshire Collection / The National Trust Photo
(br); From Tacuinum Sanitatis, Nova 2644 fol.96v, Barber Surgeons of York, Eg 2572 f.51v, The Four pound coin with portrait of Queen Elizabeth I / Library (tc). The Bridgeman Art Library: From
Fencing / Osterreichische Nationalbibliothek, Vienna Humours / British Library (bl); From Hainaut Hoberman Collection (br). Rex Features: SIPA (c). Jane Seymour by Hans Holbein the Younger /
(tl); Love Scene, detail of panelling from the Penafiel Chronicles, Ms 9242, Philip the Good, Duke of 98 Corbis: Self-portrait with Wife, Isabella Brandt Kunsthistorisches Museum, Vienna (br); Richard
Castle, Valladolid, workshop of Claustro de Silo / Burgundy, presented with the translation of the by Peter Paul Rubens, Alte Pinakothek, Munich / The Sackville, 3rd Earl of Dorset by Isaac Oliver / Victoria
Museo Episcopal de Vic, Osona, Spain (tc); Arnolfini Chronicles by Jean Vauquelin, Bibliothèque Royale Gallery Collection (bl, bc); Anne of Denmark & Albert Museum, London (l). 110 Corbis: From
Portrait by Jan van Eyck / National Gallery London de Belgique, Brussels / Giraudon (tl); Frontal from attributed to Marcus Gheeraerts the Younger, The Path of Life from The Haywain by Hieronymous
(bc). Corbis: Renaissance manuscript illumination of the Adimari Cassone depicting a wedding scene in Woburn Abbey / The Gallery Collection (bl, bc). Bosch, Museo del Prado / The Gallery Collection (br).
textile merchants, from “Book of Statutes of the front of the Baptistry, detail of four men, Giovanni 99 akg-images: Isabel de Valois by Anthonis Mor, Getty Images: From Rustic Wedding, detail of
Tailors’ Guild” /Gianni Dagli Orti (tr). 74 The di Ser Giovanni Scheggia / Galleria dell’ Accademia, Private Collection, Madrid / Album / Oronoz (tr). people dancing by Pieter the Younger Brueghel,
Bridgeman Art Library: From Harl 4431 fol.183, Florence (tc); Portrait of Juan II of Portugal / Hospital The Bridgeman Art Library: Frances Howard, Museum voor Schone Kunsten, Ghent / The
Nine Muses Bathing, from the Collected Works of Tavera, Toledo, Spain (bc). Corbis: Types of liberality Countess of Hertford by Marcus Gheeraerts the Bridgeman Art Library (tr, bl); Leather jerkin,
Christine de Pisan / British Library (bc); Arnolfini from a French renaissance manuscript / Gianni Dagli Younger / Cowdray Park, Sussex, UK (bl); Infanta Museum of London, UK / The Bridgeman Art Library
Orti (br). Getty Images: Lorenzo de’ Medici the Isabella Clara Eugenia, daughter of King Philip II of
Magnificent as one of the Three Kings, detail from Spain by Anguissola, Sofonisba / Prado, Madrid (tl);

478 ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

(tr, bl). 111 Alamy Images: French peasant carrying Van Haeften Ltd., London (bl). Getty Images: From (br). Corbis: From Nobleman’s Dress by Le Clerc / (cra); Time & Life Pictures (br). 166-167 Fotolia:
cheeses and poultry engraving from Habitus painted image of family in Delft by Pieter de Hooch, Historical Picture Archive (c). 151 Banbury Yuri Arcurs. 167 Alamy Images: Playbill poster
praecipuorum popularum, Biblioteca Nacional Vienna, Austria / DEA / G. Nimatallah (br). 129 Museum: (tr, cr, crb). The Bridgeman Art Library: Sarah Bernhardt in Gismonda Théâtre de la
Madrid / The Art Archive (tl). The Bridgeman Art Banbury Museum: (br). The Bridgeman Art From Thomas Graham, Baron Lynedoch by David Renaissance by Alphonse Mucha (Alfons Maria) /
Library: Young English Woman by Hans Holbein Library: From Prince Octavio Piccolomini, 1st Duke Allan, Yale Center for British Art, Paul Mellon Archivart (crb). Corbis: Sean Sexton Collection (c).
the Younger / Ashmolean Museum (r); Detail from of Amalfi as a delegate of the Nuremberg peace Collection, USA (bc); From Portrait of William Perry Getty Images: Science & Society Picture Library
Envy, a part of the Table of the Seven Deadly Sins congress by Anselmus van Hulle, Deutsches with the Colosseum beyond by David Antonio, (cr). 169 The Shoe Museum: W17+sD25,
and the Four Last Things by Hieronymus Bosch, Historisches Museum, Berlin, Germany (r); Habit of private collection / © Christie’s Images (tl); From W17+sD2, W17+sD32 (br). 172-173 Getty
Prado Madrid / Giraudon (tc). Getty Images: an Oliverian, English School, private collection / The Louis-Antoine-Auguste Comte de Chabot and Duc Images: The Cloakroom, Clifton Assembly Rooms
Spanish peasant woman from Habitus praecipuorum Stapleton Collection (tl). Getty Images: From The de Rohan by Carmontelle, Musee Conde, Chantilly, by Rolinda Sharples, Bristol City Museum and Art
popularum by Jost Amman / DEA / G. Dagli Orti (bl). Courtyard of a House in Delft by Pieter de Hooch / France / Giraudon (bl); The Salon of Philippe Egalite Gallery / The Bridgeman Art Library. 173 Fotolia:
112 Alamy Images: Robe belonging to Ottoman Universal Images Group (bl). 131 Getty Images: Duc d’Orleans by Carmontelle/ private collection / Yuri Arcurs. 174 Blandford Fashion Museum: (tr).
Sultan Beyazid II, Topkapi Museum Istanbul / The Art Portrait of King Charles II by Sir Peter Lely, © Royal Archives Charmet (tc). 152 Alamy Images: Portrait 175 Dorling Kindersley: Judith Miller / Sylvie
Archive (br). Corbis: A Turkish artist attributed to Hospital Chelsea, London, UK / The Bridgeman Art by unknown illustration from Social Caricature in Spectrum (cr). 176-177 Blandford Fashion
Gentile Bellini / Burstein Collection (bl). Getty Library (tr). 132 The Bridgeman Art Library: From the Eighteenth Century with over two hundred Museum. 179 Blandford Fashion Museum: (tl).
Images: Selim II 11th Sultan of the Ottoman Empire A Lady at Her Toilet by Gerard Terborch, Detroit illustrations by George Paston, pseudonym of Emily 182 Alamy Images: George “Beau” Brummell,
by Nigari Reis Haydar a.k.a Nakkep, Topkapi Sarayi Institute of Arts, USA / Founders Society Purchase Morse Symonds, London / The Print Collector (r). illustration from Jesse’s Life / Mary Evans Picture
Museum Library Istanbul / Leemage / Universal (tc). Getty Images: From Portrait of Marie-Therese The Bridgeman Art Library: From “And Catch the Library (br). The Bridgeman Art Library: George
Images Group (tc). 113 The Bridgeman Art of Austria by Charles Beaubrun, Chateau de Living Manners as they Rise,” published by Hannah “Beau” Brummell by Robert Dighton / private
Library: Nicolas de Respaigne by Peter Paul Rubens, Versailles, France / The Bridgeman Art Library (tr). Humphrey, by James Gillray, © courtesy of the collection (c). Corbis: George Brummel after a
Gemaeldegalerie Alte Meister, Kassel, Germany / 133 The Bridgeman Art Library: From Anne Warden and Scholars of New College, Oxford (tc). miniature by John Cook / Bettmann (cl). 183 Alamy
Museumslandschaft Hessen Kassel (l); Hand colored Hyde, Duchess of York by Sir Peter Lely, Scottish Getty Images: From The Triumph of Ridicule from Images: Beau Brummell. A young man asks “who’s
engraving from Omnium Poene Gentium Imagines National Portrait Gallery, Edinburgh, Scotland (tl). an engraving by Almanacby Basset / DEA / De your fat friend?” engraving after J. Godwin, “The
by Abraham de Bruyn, Cologne / private collection 134-135 The Bridgeman Art Library: The Agostini (bl). 153 The Art Archive: “Welladay! is Wits and Beaux of Society” / Mary Evans Picture
(br). 114 The Shoe Museum: W17+sD30. 116- Tichborne Dole by Gillis van Tilborgh / Tichborne this my son Tom?,” satirical cartoon of a Library. 184 Banbury Museum: (bl). 189 Banbury
117 Fotolia: Yuri Arcurs. 116 Banbury Museum: House, Hampshire UK. 135 Fotolia: Yuri Arcurs. conservative father shocked by his son’s new wig Museum: (bl). Blandford Fashion Museum: (br,
(tl). Getty Images: Hulton Archive (cr); Universal 136 Alamy Images: The Old Cloak and Hat Seller, (bl). The Bridgeman Art Library: Street Walkers, cb, bra). 193 Blandford Fashion Museum: (br,
Images Group (ca). 117 Alamy Images: Old Paper engraving by Marcellus Laroon or Lauron from the etched by B. Smith, pub. by S.W. Fores, English bra). 194-195 Corbis: Empress Eugenie of France
Studios (cl). Banbury Museum: (tl). Corbis: “Cryes and Habits of the City of London” / School / © City of Westminster Archive Centre, with ladies of her court by Franz Xaver Winterhalter,
Madame de Pompadour by Francois Boucher / Timewatch Images (bl). 137 Corbis: From Charles London, UK (br); L’Agiateur du Palais Royal, Château de Compiègne / The Art Archive. 195
Stapleton Collection (bl). Getty Images: The VI of Habsburg, Holy Roman Empire, Charles III of engraved by Baquoi, plate no.282 from “Galeries Fotolia: Yuri Arcurs. 196 Getty Images: Roger-
Bridgeman Art Library (c); Universal Images Group Austria by Martin Mytens the Younger, Galleria degli des Modes et Costumes Francais” 99: clothing; Viollet (cl). Photo SCALA, Florence: Brooklyn
(cr). V&A Images \ Victoria and Albert Museum, Uffizi Florence / The Art Archive / © Alfredo Dagli traditional dress; traditional costume; fashion; Museum Costume Collection at The Metropolitan
London: (cla, br). 118 Getty Images: From Willem Orti (bl). Getty Images: From The Duke of illustration; c18th; fashionable; clothes; male; Museum of Art, Gift of the Brooklyn Museum,
Van Heythuyzen by Frans Hals, Alte Pinakothek, Marlborough in Garter Robes by Sir Godfrey Kneller, striped waistcoat; dandy; hat; scalloped coat; 2009; Gift of Dr. and Mrs. Edward N. Goldstein,
Munich, Germany / The Bridgeman Art Library (tr). Blenheim Palace, Oxfordshire, UK / The Bridgeman Watteau by Francois Louis Joseph / private collection 1983 (2009.300.1000a, b) / Art Resource (br). 197
119 The Bridgeman Art Library: From Sir John Art Library (br); From Portrait of Marin Marais / The Stapleton Collection (c). Peter Kennedy: Turf
Ashburnham by Daniel Mytens, National Gallery of playing a 7-string viola by Andre Bouys, Opera macaroni etching by Matthew Darly (tl). Photo V&A Images \ Victoria and Albert Museum,
Victoria, Melbourne / Everard Studley Miller Bequest Museum of Paris, France / Leemage (tr). V&A SCALA, Florence: The St. James’s Macaroni by
(tl); From Sir Alexander Carew by John Hammond, James Bretherton, Guildhall Library & Art Gallery / London: (br). 197 Banbury Museum: (bc).
Antony House Cornwall UK / National Trust Images \ Victoria and Albert Museum, London: Heritage Images (tr). 154-155 Museum of Blandford Fashion Museum: (bl, tr). 198 Corbis:
Photographic Library (c). Corbis: From Charles I of London. 156 Alamy Images: From Mrs. Richard Elizabeth of Bavaria Empress of Austria by Franz
Great Britain and Ireland by Daniel Mytens the Elder, (c). 138 The Bridgeman Art Library: From Louise Brinsley Sheridan by Thomas Gainsborough / The Xavier Winterhalter, Bundesmobiliensammlung,
National Portrait Gallery London / Heritage Images de Keroualle by Sir Godfrey Kneller (r). Photo Art Gallery Collection (br). The Bridgeman Art Vienna / The Gallery Collection. 199 The
(bl). 120 The Bridgeman Art Library: From SCALA, Florence: Marie Adelaide de Savoie, Library: From Rose Milles by George Romney, Bridgeman Art Library: Visiting card of Charles
Portrait of a Lady by Gerrit van Donck / © Bonhams, Duchesse de Bourgogne Dauphine of France, Musée Huntington Library and Art Gallery, San Marino, CA, Frederick Worth in fancy dress, Bibliothèque
London, UK (bl). Getty Images: From presumed du Château de Versailles / White Images (bc). USA / © The Huntington Library, Art Collections & Nationale de France, Paris / Archives Charmet (cr);
portrait of Marchesa Geromina (Spinola-Doria of 139 The Bridgeman Art Library: Thought to be Botanical Gardens (c). Corbis: From Edwin from Dr. Museum of Fine Arts, Boston, Mass., USA (bc).
Genoa) by Sir Anthony van Dyck / SuperStock (r). Elizabeth, Duchess of Beaufort by Michael Dahl, Beattie’s by Joseph Wright of Derby / Christie’s Getty Images: DEA Picture Library (c). TopFoto.
121 The Bridgeman Art Library: From Saint private collection / Philip Mould Ltd, London (bl). Images (tr). Getty Images: From George co.uk: Roger-Viollet (br). 200 V&A Images \
Margaret of Antioch by Francisco de Zurbaran, 140 Blandford Fashion Museum: (tl). 142 Drummond by Thomas Gainsborough, Ashmolean Victoria and Albert Museum, London: Given by
National Gallery, London, UK (bl, bc); From Portrait Banbury Museum: (bl). The Bridgeman Art Museum of Art, University of Oxford, Oxfordshire, Messrs Harrods Ltd (bl). 201 Blandford Fashion
of a Woman, by Sir Anthony van Dyck, The Royal Library: From Portrait of Miss Elizabeth Hemyng by England / Peter Barritt (bl). 157 Alamy Images: Museum: (br, bra, bl). Photo SCALA, Florence:
Collection © 2011 Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II Arthur Devis, © Geffrye Museum, London, UK (c). From Mr. and Mrs. William Hallett (“The Morning Brooklyn Museum Costume Collection at The
(bl, bc); From Christian Bruce Countess of The Shoe Museum: W17sD3, W17+sD13, Walk”) by Thomas Gainsborough / Lebrecht Music Metropolitan Museum of Art, Gift of the Brooklyn
Devonshire and Her Children by Daniel Mytens / © W17sD1, W17+sD30 (br). 143 Alamy Images: and Arts Photo Library (bl). The Bridgeman Art Museum, 2009; Gift of Ethel M. Dixon in memory of
Devonshire Collection, Chatsworth, reproduced by V&A Images (tl, bl). V&A Images \ Victoria and Library: From Watkin E. Wynne by William Parry, her mother, Annie Denton Merritt, 1953
permission of Chatsworth Settlement Trustees (tc); Albert Museum, London: (br, tr); (tc, bc). 144-145 National Museum Wales (tl). Corbis: From (2009.300.777a–c) / Art Resource (tc). 202-203
From Dancing Party by Pieter Codde / private Blandford Fashion Museum. 146 Alamy Gentleman in Walking Dress by Le Clerc and Loysard Blandford Fashion Museum. 204 Blandford
collection, Wassenaar, Netherlands (tr). Getty Images: From Woman with Clasped Hands by / Historical Picture Archive (tr); From Goethe in the Fashion Museum: (cl, fcl). 205 Alamy Images:
Images: English School gold pendant, Museum of Leclerc and Dupin, Bibliothèque des Arts Décoratifs Roman Campagna by Johann H.W. Tischbein, Stadel Interfoto (tr). Blandford Fashion Museum: (br).
London UK / The Bridgeman Art Library (crb). V&A Paris / The Art Archive (bc, tr); From Woman Museum, Frankfurt, Germany (br). V&A Images \ 206 Blandford Fashion Museum: (cl, fcl, clb).
Reading Letter, wearing dress à la polonaise (Polish Victoria and Albert Museum, London: (tc). 207 Smithsonian: National Museum of American
Images \ Victoria and Albert Museum, London: style) of painted fabric by Leclerc and Dupin, 158 The Art Archive: From Meeting at a Ball, History Costume Collection (bl). 208-209 The
Bibliothèque des Arts Décoratifs Paris / The Art Bibliothèque des Arts Décoratifs Paris / Dagli Orti Bridgeman Art Library: Cincinnati Art Museum,
Life-size dummy board depicting woman holding a Archive (bc, tr). Corbis: From costume print of (br). Corbis: From The Charlatan by Pietro Longhi / Ohio, USA. 208 The Bridgeman Art Library:
mirror, East Sutton Park Kent, UK (tl). 122 Alamy lady’s ball gown by Desrais and Le Clerc / Historical Gustavo Tomsich (bl). Getty Images: From The Cincinnati Art Museum, Ohio, USA (tc, tr). 209 The
Images: V&A Images (l). The Bridgeman Art Picture Archive (br); Miss Calash by George Paston, Masque / Hulton Archive (tr). 159 The Art Archive: Bridgeman Art Library: Cincinnati Art Museum,
Library: A Cavalier by Edward Bower, Dunster illustration from “Social Caricature in the Eighteenth Bal de l’opera, or Opera Ball by Jean Francois Bosio Ohio, USA (tl, ca, tc, tr). 210 Blandford Fashion
Castle Somerset, UK / National Trust Photographic Century” / The Print Collector (bl). Getty Images: (bc). The Bridgeman Art Library: From The Fair Museum: (c, bl, bc). 211 Alamy Images: German
Library (c). 123 Getty Images: King Charles I of From Fashionable Clothes by Leclerc and Dupin, Nun Unmasked by Henry Robert Morland, Leeds Gentleman / Mary Evans Picture Library (c); Thislife
England out hunting by Sir Anthony van Dyck, Paris, France / De Agostin (tc). 147 Corbis: From Museums and Art Galleries (Temple Newsam pictures (br). Photo SCALA, Florence: The
Louvre, Paris / The Bridgeman Art Library (c); DEA / lady’s simple promenade gown by Palas / Historical House), UK (br). Getty Images: From The Costume Metropolitan Museum of Art / Art Resource /
A. Dagli Orti (tr). 124 Alamy Images: From Picture Archive (l, br, tr); From lady’s ball gown by Le Ball / The Bridgeman Art Library (tr); From The purchase, The German Fur Federation Gift, 1981
Marguerite of Lorraine, Duchess of Orleans by Clerc / Historical Picture Archive (l, br, tr); From a Masque / Hulton Archive (l, tc). 160-161 akg- (1981.12.4a–c) (tr). 212-213 Corbis: The Print
Anthony Van Dyck, Galleria degli Uffizi Florence / lady’s golden gown with a tight bodice and hooped images: Sultane (Jeanne Antoinette Poisson, Collector. 213 Fotolia: Yuri Arcurs. 214 Corbis:
The Art Archive (tc). 125 Alamy Images: From skirt edged with pink gathered frill by Le Clerc / Madame de Pompadour) by Charles André van Loo, Stapleton Collection (bl); From Empress Elizabeth of
Anne Kirke by Anthony van Dyck, Flemish Belgian, Historical Picture Archive (l, br, tr). Getty Images: Musée des Arts Décoratifs, Paris. 160 Fotolia: Yuri Austria and Bavaria / Hulton-Deutsch Collection (bc).
Belgium / Peter Horree (c). Corbis: From Anne, From a young woman in a peignoir with her Arcurs. 162 Alamy Images: From Racket Player, Photo SCALA, Florence: Brooklyn Museum
Countess of Clanbrassil by Anthony van Dyck / hairdresser, plate 31 from “Galerie des Modes et from The Venetians by Grevenbroeck, Museo Correr Costume Collection at The Metropolitan Museum of
Geoffrey Clements (bl). 126 akg-images: From Costumes Francais” by Dupin / The Bridgeman Art Venice / The Art Archive (bl). Corbis: From full- Art, Gift of the Brooklyn Museum, 2009; Dick S.
Henrietta Maria of England—Portrait with Lute and Library (tc). 148 Corbis: Marie Antoinette by length portrait of William St. Clair by George Ramsay Fund, 1956 (2009.300.1900a–c) / Art
Dog by Cornelius Johnson and Gerard Houckgeest, Elisabeth Vigee-Lebrun, Château de Versailles / The Chalmers / Bettmann (r). 163 Alamy Images: From Resource (tr). 215 Blandford Fashion Museum:
Sotheby’s 8 March 1989, Lot 24 (br); Henrietta Gallery Collection. 149 Alamy Images: Marie Mr. and Mrs. Andrews by Thomas Gainsborough / (bl). Getty Images: From Coming Back From a
Maria of France, Queen Consort of England by Antoinette and her four children by Elisabeth Louise The Art Gallery Collection (tl); From Resting While Morning in the Bois by Francois Courboin / Stock
Anthony van Dyck / Memphis Brooks Museum of Vigee-Lebrun, Château de Versailles / The Art Out Hunting, from the Esterhazy Palace in Budapest, Montage (tl). Photo SCALA, Florence: Brooklyn
Art (cl). Corbis: Henrietta of France, Queen of Gallery Collection (br). Corbis: Archduchess Marie Hungary, artist unknown, National Gallery Budapest Museum Costume Collection at The Metropolitan
England by Anthony van Dyck / Alinari Archives (c); Antoinette Habsburg-Lotharingen by Martin Mytens / The Art Archive (bl, tc); The Bridgeman Art Museum of Art, Gift of the Brooklyn Museum,
From Queen Henrietta Maria and Her Dwarf, Sir the Younger, Schloss Schonbrunn, Vienna / The Library: From The Boy with a Bat by Walter 2009; Mr. and Mrs. Morton Sultzer, 1979
Jeffrey Hudson by Anthony van Dyck / The Gallery Gallery Collection (cr). Getty Images: Queen Marie Hawkesworth Fawkes, Breamore House, Hampshire, (2009.300.532a–d) / Art Resource (c, tr). V&A
Collection (bl). 127 The Bridgeman Art Library: Antoinette of France in a fashion plate; / Hulton UK (bc, tr); From Cricket Match Played by the
Queen Henrietta Maria by Sir Anthony van Dyck / Archive (c). Mary Evans Picture Library: Queen Countess of Derby and Other Ladies, Marylebone Images \ Victoria and Albert Museum, London:
Wallace Collection, London. 128 Alamy Images: Marie Antoinette of France in hunting dress by Cricket Club, London, UK (bc, tr). Getty Images:
From An English Man and Two Women of the Mid- Joseph Krazinger, Schoenbrunn Castle / Interfoto / From John Ward of Squerrie by Arthur Devis / The (br). 216 Getty Images: Hulton Archive (bc);
17th Century by Malcolm, from an old source, in his Sammlung Rauch (bl). 150 The Bridgeman Art Bridgeman Art Library (br). 164-165 Blandford Science & Society Picture Library (bl); Sean Sexton
Anecdotes of the Manners and Customs of London, Library: From Andrew Drummond by Johann Fashion Museum. 166 Banbury Museum: (crb). (br). 217 The Bridgeman Art Library: Portrait of
page 404 / Mary Evans Picture Library (tr). The Zoffany, private collection (bl); From Viscount The Bridgeman Art Library: George “Beau” George William Henry Venables, 7th Lord Vernon /
Bridgeman Art Library: From The Virtuous Tyrconnel with his family by Philippe Mercier, private Brummell by Robert Dighton / private collection (c). National Trust Photographic Library / John
Woman by Nicolaes Maes, © Wallace Collection, collection / Mark Fiennes (tr); From Portrait of Getty Images: Hulton Archive (bl); Popperfoto Hammond (tc). Getty Images: Alinari Archives (tr);
London, UK (bc); From A Conversation in the Street Charles John Crowle of Crowle Park by Pompeo Hulton Archive (bc); London Stereoscopic Company
by Jacobus Vrel or Frel private collection / Johnny Girolamo Batoni, Louvre, Paris, France / Giraudon (br). 218 The Bridgeman Art Library: A lady in
her costume worn at the Eglington Tournament by
Edward Henry Corbould / private collection / ©

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS 479

Mallett Gallery, London, UK (br); Illustration from (bl). Photo SCALA, Florence: The Metropolitan Paul Peralta-Ramos, 1954 (2009.300.2785a, b) (br). V&A Images \ Victoria and Albert Museum,
“Journal of Luxury and Fashion,” French School / Museum of Art / Art Resource (c); Brooklyn Museum 273 Blandford Fashion Museum: (tr, tcr, tl, tcl, London: (tr). 298 Banbury Museum: (br, cl).
private collection (tr). Getty Images: Hulton Royals Costume Collection at The Metropolitan Museum of bcr). The Shoe Museum: W19sD157 (br); Getty Images: Eggit (tc). 299 Corbis: J. Baylor
Collection / Lafayette (bl). 219 The Bridgeman Art Art, Gift of the Brooklyn Museum, 2009; Gift of W19sD126 (crb). 274 Photo SCALA, Florence: Roberts / National Geographic Society (bc). Getty
Library: Fancy dress costume for Mephistopheles, Mary Cheney Platt, 1966 (2009.300.23a, b) / Art Brooklyn Museum Costume Collection at The Images: J. A. Hampton (l); Planet News Archive
from “L’Art du Travestissement” by Leon Salut, Resource (br). 246 Getty Images: Hulton Archive Metropolitan Museum of Art / gift of Mrs. Frederick (br). 300 Blandford Fashion Museum: (tl).
French School / Bibliotheque des Arts Decoratifs, (bl). Photo SCALA, Florence: The Metropolitan H. Prince, Jr / Art Resource (bl); The Metropolitan
Paris, France / Archives Charmet (bl, c); Fancy dress Museum of Art / Art Resource (bc); Brooklyn Museum of Art / Art Resource / Gift of Madame 300-301 Blandford Fashion Museum. 302 Getty
costume for a female devil, from “L’Art du Museum Costume Collection at The Metropolitan Madeleine Vionnet, 1952 (C.I.52.18.4) (bc); Images: Hulton Archive (bl); Popperfoto (bc). 303
Travestissement” by Leon Salut, French School / Museum of Art, Gift of the Brooklyn Museum, Brooklyn Museum Costume Collection at The Banbury Museum: (bc). Blandford Fashion
Bibliotheque des Arts Decoratifs, Paris, France / 2009; Gift of Mrs. V. D. Crisp, 1963 Metropolitan Museum of Art,Gift of the estate of Museum: (br). Getty Images: Michael Ochs
Archives Charmet (bl, c). 222-223 Fotolia: Yuri (2009.300.3248) / Art Resource (br). 247 Photo Mary / Art Resource (r). 275 Blandford Fashion Archives (tr); Gamma-Keystone (bl); Hulton Archive
Arcurs. 222 Corbis: Underwood & Underwood (ca). SCALA, Florence: Brooklyn Museum Costume Museum: (tc). Corbis: Bettmann (br). Photo (tc). 304 Blandford Fashion Museum: (c). Getty
Photo SCALA, Florence: The Metropolitan Collection at The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Gift SCALA, Florence: Brooklyn Museum Costume Images: Popperfoto (br). The Shoe Museum:
Museum of Art / Art Resource (br). 223 Blandford of the Brooklyn Museum, 2009; Gift of Mrs. Collection at The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Gift *W19sD165 (clb). 305 Banbury Museum: (br).
Fashion Museum: (tr, cl). Corbis: Bettmann (cb, Norman W. Wassman, 1956 (2009.300.2802) / Art of Mrs. Hollis K. Thayer / Art Resource (tl); The Blandford Fashion Museum: (bl). Getty Images:
br). Getty Images: Science & Society Picture Library Resource (tc, tr); The Metropolitan Museum of Art / Metropolitan Museum of Art / Art Resource (bl, bc, Hulton Archive (tl); (tr). V&A Images \ Victoria
(ca). 224 Alamy Images: Mary Evans Picture Library Art Resource / Gift of Mrs. George Henry O’Neil, tr). 276 Getty Images: George Marks (tr); Roger- and Albert Museum, London: Given by the Board
(c). Corbis: The Francis Frith Collection (bl). Getty 1968 (C.I.68.48a–e) (bc); The Metropolitan Museum Viollet (bl). Photo SCALA, Florence: Brooklyn of Trade, through Sir Thomas Barlow, Director-
Images: Hulton Archive (tr, br). 225 Alamy of Art / Art Resource (bl). Blandford Fashion Museum Costume Collection at The Metropolitan General of Civilian Clothing (c). 306-307 The
Images: Mary Evans Picture Library (tl, bc, tc); Museum (br). 248 Getty Images. 249 Alamy Museum of Art, Gift of the Brooklyn Museum, Kobal Collection: MGM. 306 Fotolia: Yuri Arcurs.
Vintage Images (bl). Getty Images: Hulton Archive Images: Pictorial Press Ltd (cr). Corbis: DPA (c). 2009; Gift of Bettina Ballard, 1952 (2009.300.1174) 308 Corbis: Bettmann (tr). Getty Images: (bl).
(r). 226 Alamy Images: Mary Evans Picture Library Photo SCALA, Florence: The Metropolitan / Art Resource (c, br). 277 Banbury Museum: (cr). Photo SCALA, Florence: The Metropolitan
(r). Corbis: Hulton-Deutsch Collection (bc). Getty Museum of Art / Art Resource / purchase, Friends of Corbis: Hulton-Deutsch Collection (tc). Photo Museum of Art / Art Resource / Gift of Janet
Images: (bl). 227 Alamy Images: Lordprice The Costume Institute Gifts, 2005 (2005.114a, b) SCALA, Florence: Brooklyn Museum Costume Chatfield-Taylor, 1962 (C.I.62.4.4a, b) (bc); The
Collection (br). Corbis: Austrian Archives (tc); (bl); The Metropolitan Museum of Art / Art Resource Collection at The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Gift Metropolitan Museum of Art / Art Resource / Gift of
Bettmann (tl); Underwood & Underwood (bl). Getty / Gift of Mrs. John Chambers Hughes, 1958 of the Brooklyn Museum, 2009; Gift of Madame Eta Claire McCardell, 1949 (C.I.49.37.15a, b) (br). 309
Images: Hulton Archive (tr); Roger-Viollet (bc). 228 (C.I.58.34.18a–c) (bc). 250 Alamy Images: Amoret Hentz, 1946 (2009.300.119) / Art Resource (bc); Blandford Fashion Museum: (br). Corbis:
Blandford Fashion Museum: (bc). Corbis: Kirn Tanner (c). Corbis: Bettmann (tr); Condé Nast The Metropolitan Museum of Art / Art Resource / Bettmann (tr). Photo SCALA, Florence: Brooklyn
Vintage Stock (bc). Smithsonian: National Museum Archive (bl). Photo SCALA, Florence: The Brenner Couture Inc. Fund, 1978 (1978.278.4) (tr); Museum Costume Collection at The Metropolitan
of American History Costume Collection (t). 229 Metropolitan Museum of Art / Art Resource / The Metropolitan Museum of Art / Art Resource / Museum of Art, Gift of the Brooklyn Museum,
The Shoe Museum: W19sD142 (br); W19bD73 purchase, The New York Historical Society, by Gift of Mrs. Harrison Williams, 1948 (C.I.48.15.3a, 2009; Gift of Helen Cookman, 1957
(crb); W19bE1 (cfrb). 230 Corbis: Bettmann (bl); exchange, 1984 (1984.28a– c) (br). 251 Alamy b) (bl). V&A Images \ Victoria and Albert (2009.300.240a–c) / Art Resource (tl, bl); The
Hulton-Deutsch Collection (c). Getty Images: Images: Lordprice Collection (br); Mary Evans Museum, London: (tl). 278-279 Corbis: Condé Metropolitan Museum of Art / Art Resource / Gift of
Hulton Archive (tr). 231 Corbis: Bettmann (bl, bc); Picture Library (tc). Blandford Fashion Museum Nast Archive. 278 Fotolia: Yuri Arcurs. 279 Getty Claire McCardell, 1949 (C.I.49.37.30a–d) (c). 310
Hulton-Deutsch Collection (tl). Blandford Fashion (bc). Corbis: Bettmann (tl). Getty Images: Hulton Images: Hulton Archive (ca). 280 The Bridgeman Corbis: Hulton-Deutsch Collection (br); Genevieve
Museum: (cra). 232 Getty Images: Hulton Archive Archive (bl, tr). 252 Banbury Museum (fbl, bl). Art Library: private collection (c). Corbis: Naylor (tr). Getty Images: Hulton Archive (bc).
(bl). Photo SCALA, Florence: Brooklyn Museum Corbis: Hulton-Deutsch Collection (br); Minnesota Bettmann (tr). Getty Images: Hulton Archive (br). Mary Evans Picture Library: National Magazine
Costume Collection at The Metropolitan Museum of Historical Society (tr). V&A Images \ Victoria and The Shoe Museum: Point of sale board for Clarks Company (bl). 311 Corbis: Bettmann (bc, br).
Art, Gift of the Brooklyn Museum, 2009; Gift of the Albert Museum, London: (bc). 253 Corbis: shoes (bl). 281 Blandford Fashion Museum: (cra). Getty Images: Hulton Archive (tc, tr). Photo
estate of Mrs. Arthur F. Schermerhorn, 1957 Hulton-Deutsch Collection (tl); National Geographic Getty Images: Gamma-Keystone (br); Science & SCALA, Florence: The Metropolitan Museum of
(2009.300.1250a, b) / Art Resource (br, tr, c). 233 Society / Clifton R. Adams (br). Photo SCALA, Society Picture Library (l); Hulton Archive (bc). V&A Art / Art Resource (l). 314 Blandford Fashion
Getty Images: Hulton Archive (br). Photo SCALA, Florence: Brooklyn Museum Costume Collection at Museum: (tl). 314-315 Fotolia: Yuri Arcurs. 314
Florence: Brooklyn Museum Costume Collection at The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Gift of the Images \ Victoria and Albert Museum, London: Corbis: Bettmann (c, bl); Sunset Boulevard (bc).
The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Gift of the Brooklyn Museum, 2009; Gift of Mrs. Egbert J. 315 Corbis: Bettmann (cra); Sunset Boulevard (c).
Brooklyn Museum, 2009; Gift of Rodman A. Sormani, 1966 (2009.300.400a–c) / Art Resource Given by Margaret, Duchess of Argyll and worn by Getty Images: Redferns (br); Bob Thomas (bl).
Heeren, 1959 (2009.300.3196) / Art Resource (tc). (bl, tr). The Shoe Museum: LW19sD99 (cra). 254- her while she was Mrs. Charles Sweeny (tc). 282 316 Banbury Museum: (bc). Blandford Fashion
255 Corbis: Condé Nast Archive. 255 Fotolia: Yuri Corbis: Bettmann (br); Hulton-Deutsch Collection Museum: (cl). Getty Images: Pat English (br).
V&A Images \ Victoria and Albert Museum, Arcurs. 256 Blandford Fashion Museum: (br). (c). Getty Images: Hulton Archive (bl); Science & Smithsonian: National Museum of American
Museum of London: (bc). Photo SCALA, Society Picture Library (tr). 283 Alamy Images: History Costume Collection (c). TopFoto.co.uk:
London: Given by the House of Worth (tl). Florence: Brooklyn Museum Costume Collection at Amoret Tanner (br). Corbis: Bettmann (bc); Hulton- Topham Picturepoint (tr). 317 Banbury Museum:
Blandford Fashion Museum: (tr). 234-235 The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Gift of the Deutsch Collection (bl). Getty Images: Science & (bl). Getty Images: Keystone (tr). Photo SCALA,
Corbis: Bettmann. 234 Fotolia: Yuri Arcurs. 236 Brooklyn Museum, 2009; Gift of Mrs. Howard C. Society Picture Library (tl, tc, tr). 284-285 Museum Florence: Brooklyn Museum Costume Collection
akg-images: (bl). Getty Images: (c); Hulton Brokaw, 1960 (2009.300.1276) / Art Resource (bl). of London. 286 The Bridgeman Art Library: at The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Gift of the
Archive (br). Mary Evans Picture Library: Epic (tr). The Shoe Museum: LW19sE31 (crb); LW19sE29 Edward, Prince of Wales by Sir William Orpen / Royal Brooklyn Museum, 2009; Gift of Claire Ramsay
237 Getty Images: Hulton Archive (l, tr). Mary (br). 257 Blandford Fashion Museum: (tl, tr). and Ancient Golf Club of St. Andrew’s, Scotland (c). Roman, 1986 (2009.300.1370) / Art Resource (tl).
Evans Picture Library (tc). Photo SCALA, Florence: Corbis: Condé Nast Archive (br); Hulton-Deutsch Smithsonian: National Museum of American
Brooklyn Museum Costume Collection at The V&A Images \ Victoria and Albert Museum, Collection (cl, bl). 287 Corbis: Bettmann. 288 History Costume Collection (c). V&A Images \
Metropolitan Museum of Art, Gift of the Brooklyn Corbis: Hulton-Deutsch Collection (bc). Getty Victoria and Albert Museum, London: (br).
Museum, 2009; Gift of Jane Mead von Salis London: Given by Lord and Lady Cowdray (tc). Images: Hulton Archive (bl); Roger-Viollet (br). 318 Getty Images: Gamma-Keystone. 319 Corbis:
Funtanella, 1984 (2009.300.551) / Art Resource TopFoto.co.uk: (tr). 289 Corbis: Bettmann (r); Bettmann (c); Condé Nast Archive (cra); Reuters (br).
(bc). Smithsonian: National Museum of American 258-259 Museum of London. 260 Alamy Hulton-Deutsch Collection (bl). Getty Images:
History Costume Collection (br). 238 The Hulton Archive (tl); (tc). 290 akg-images: Ullstein V&A Images \ Victoria and Albert Museum,
Bridgeman Art Library: Woman’s WW1 American Images: Trinity Mirror / Mirrorpix (c). Blandford bild (bl, tc). Getty Images: Gamma-Keystone (c); London: Given by the Baroness Alain de Rothschild
Red Cross Motor Services uniform: coat, breeches, Fashion Museum: (bl, clb). Corbis: Bettmann (br, Hulton Archive (br). 291 akg-images: (tl, tr). Getty (bc). 320 Photograph by John Chase: Olive
coat belt, belt and cap with pin, 1917 (wool & tr, r). 261 Blandford Fashion Museum: (br). Images: Hulton Archive (bl, br). 292 Alamy Matthews Collection, Chertsey Museum (all).
leather), American School (20th century) / Corbis: National Geographic Society / Clifton R. Images: Trinity Mirror / Mirrorpix (tr). Photo 322 TopFoto.co.uk: Roger-Viollet (c). V&A Images
Philadelphia Museum of Art, Pennsylvania, USA / Adams (bc). Getty Images: Hulton Archive (tc, tr). SCALA, Florence: Brooklyn Museum Costume \ Victoria and Albert Museum, London: (bl, tr).
Gift of Mrs. Francis John Rumpf, 1972 (tr). Getty 262 Corbis: (bl). Photo SCALA, Florence: Collection at The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Gift 323 Blandford Fashion Museum: (tr, ca).
Images: Hulton Archive / F. J. Mortimer (br). 239 Brooklyn Museum Costume Collection at The of the Brooklyn Museum, 2009; Gift of Mrs. TopFoto.co.uk: Roger-Viollet (tc). V&A Images \
Getty Images: Hulton Archive / Topical Press Metropolitan Museum of Art, Gift of the Brooklyn Anthony Wilson, 1963 (2009.300.2522a, b) / Art Victoria and Albert Museum, London: (tl, bl, bc).
Agency (tl); Hulton Archive (bl); Cover of “The Museum, 2009; Gift of Albert Moss, 1967 Resource (br); The Metropolitan Museum of Art / 324-325 Corbis: Condé Nast Archive. 325 Fotolia:
Gentlewoman,” a patriotic magazine, showing (2009.300.906a–f) / Art Resource (bc). V&A Images Art Resource / Gift of Mrs. John Chambers Hughes, Yuri Arcurs. 326 Mary Evans Picture Library:
“Miss 1918,” a woman in uniform against an \ Victoria and Albert Museum, London: (r). 263 1958 (C.I.58.34.19a, b) (bl); The Metropolitan National Magazine Company (tr). Smithsonian:
American flag background, 1918, published by WJ Corbis: Bettmann (tl, bc); John Springer Collection Museum of Art / Art Resource / Gift of Mrs. Harrison National Museum of American History Costume
Thompson & Company / Archive Photos / (tr). Getty Images: Hulton Archive (tc); Science & Williams, 1948 (C.I.48.15.1a–c) (bc). 293 Corbis: Collection (br). TopFoto.co.uk: Roger-Viollet (c).
Buyenlarge (br). Photo SCALA, Florence: The Society Picture Library (bl, br). 264 Corbis: Bettmann (tr). Getty Images: Time & Life Pictures
Metropolitan Museum of Art / Art Resource / Bettmann (bl); Underwood & Underwood (bc). 265 (bl). Photo SCALA, Florence: Brooklyn Museum V&A Images \ Victoria and Albert Museum,
purchase, Irene Lewisohn bequest, 1951 (C.I. Blandford Fashion Museum: (cra, cr, fcr). Corbis: Costume Collection at The Metropolitan Museum of London: (bl). 327 Blandford Fashion Museum:
51.97.26a–c) (tr); The Metropolitan Museum of Art / Bettmann (bc); The Francis Frith Collection (tl); Art, Gift of the Brooklyn Museum, 2009; Gift of (bc). Dorling Kindersley: Judith Miller / William
Art Resource / Gift of Jane Darlington Irwin, 1981 Hulton-Deutsch Collection (tc). Getty Images: Millicent Huttleston Rogers, 1949 (2009.300.2754) / Wain at Antiquarius (crb); Judith Miller / Cristobal
(1981.523.4a–d) (c). 240 Corbis: (c). 241 Corbis: Hulton Archive (bl). The Shoe Museum: Art Resource (br); The Metropolitan Museum of Art (br). Photo SCALA, Florence: Brooklyn Museum
Amanaimages (tc); PoodlesRock (bc). Photo LW19sD19 (crb); LM19sD18 (bra); LM19sD6 (br). / Art Resource / Gift of Paulette Winston Zerner, Costume Collection at The Metropolitan Museum of
SCALA, Florence: Brooklyn Museum Costume 266 Corbis: John Springer Collection (c). Photo 1964 (C.I.64.21.1) (tl). V&A Images \ Victoria and Art, Gift of the Brooklyn Museum, 2009; Gift of
Collection at The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Gift SCALA, Florence: Modello di Tuta (model of Albert Museum, London: (c). 294 Corbis: Josephine Abercrombie, 1953 (2009.300.784) / Art
of the Brooklyn Museum, 2009; Gift of Mrs. Dail overalls) Michehelles Ernesto Thayaht, Michehelles Philadelphia Museum of Art (tr). Dorling Resource (tc). V&A Images \ Victoria and Albert
Wolkowitz, 1982 (2009.300.540a–c) / Art Resource Collection (bl); The Metropolitan Museum of Art / Kindersley: Judith Miller (bl, fbl). Photo SCALA, Museum, London: (bl, tr). 328-329 Mary Evans
(bl). V&A Images \ Victoria and Albert Museum, Art Resource (bc). 267 akg-images: Les Arts Florence: Brooklyn Museum Costume Collection at Picture Library: National Magazine Company. 329
London: (tl). 242 The Bridgeman Art Library: Décoratifs, Paris / Jean Tholance (tc). Getty Images: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Gift of the Alamy Images: Allstar Picture Library (br). Corbis:
Archives Charmet. 243 Corbis: (cr). Photo SCALA, Hulton Archive (tr). Photo SCALA, Florence: Brooklyn Museum, 2009; Gift of the estate of Elinor Ramon Manent courtesy of Museum of Textil y de la
Florence: Metropolitan Museum of Art Brooklyn Brooklyn Museum Costume Collection at The S. Gimbel, 1984 (2009.300.1008a–c) / Art Resource indumentaria, Barcelona (c). Getty Images: Roger-
Museum Costume (c); The Metropolitan Museum of Metropolitan Museum of Art, Gift of the Brooklyn (br). V&A Images \ Victoria and Albert Museum, Viollet (cr). Mary Evans Picture Library: National
Art / Art Resource / Purchase, Friends of The Museum, 2009; Gift of Arturo and Paul Peralta- London: (c). 295 akg-images: Les Arts Décoratifs, Magazine Company (bl). 330 The Bridgeman Art
Costume Institute Gifts, 2005 (2005.199) (bl); White Ramos, 1955 (2009.300.2423a, b) / Art Resource Paris / Jean Tholance (tl). Photo SCALA, Florence: Library: (tr). Photo SCALA, Florence: Brooklyn
Images (br). 244 Corbis: (bl). V&A Images \ (tl); (bl). 270 Alamy Images: Pictorial Press Ltd (bc). Brooklyn Museum Costume Collection at The Museum Costume Collection at The Metropolitan
Victoria and Albert Museum, London: Given by Blandford Fashion Museum: (tl). Corbis: Metropolitan Museum of Art, Gift of the Brooklyn Museum of Art, Gift of the Brooklyn Museum,
Lord and Lady Cowdray (tr). 245 The Bridgeman Bettmann (bl). Getty Images: Hulton Archive (br). Museum, 2009; Gift of Mrs. V. D. Crisp, 1963 2009; Gift of the estate of Sophy Tepperman, 1978
Art Library: Bibliothèque des Arts Décoratifs, Paris / 270-271 Fotolia: Yuri Arcurs. 271 Alamy Images: (2009.300.324) / Art Resource (br); The (2009.300.528a, b) / Art Resource (br). V&A
Archives Charmet (tl). Photograph by John MPVHistory (ca). Banbury Museum: (cr). Getty Metropolitan Museum of Art / Art Resource / Gift of
Chase: Olive Matthews Collection, Chertsey Images: AFP (bl); (cl); Hulton Archive (bc). Photo Mrs. Lawrence W. Snell, 1973 (1973.199.1) (c); The Images \ Victoria and Albert Museum, London:
Museum (tr). Corbis: Philadelphia Museum of Art SCALA, Florence: Brooklyn Museum Costume Metropolitan Museum of Art / Art Resource (bl). (c). 331 The Bridgeman Art Library: Gift of
Collection at The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Gift Marilyn M. Maxwell (c). Corbis: Bettmann (bl, tr).
of the Brooklyn Museum, 2009; Gift of Arturo and
V&A Images \ Victoria and Albert Museum,

480 ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

London: (br, tl). 332 Alamy Images: fashion, Spencer (br); Evening Standard (tl). V&A Images \ Mirror / Mirrorpix (tr). Corbis: Condé Nast Archive The publisher would also like to thank the
Defaka (department store) fashion catalogue, Victoria and Albert Museum, London: (tc, bl). (tc). Getty Images: Antonio de Moraes Barros Filho following companies, organizations, museums
Germany, 1957, title page, illustration showing 370 Corbis: John Springer Collection. 371 Alamy (bc); Pierre Verdy (bl); Victor Virgile (r). Photo and individuals for their generosity in allowing
Petra Schuermann, Miss World of 1956, advertising, Images: Interfoto (bl). Corbis: Bettmann (cra); SCALA, Florence: The Metropolitan Museum of Dorling Kindersley access to their exhibits and
men’s fashion, ladies’ fashion, tippet, tippets, wool, Sygma (c). Rex Features: Evening Standard / Alex Art / Art Resource (tl). 412 Alamy Images: Trinity private collections for photography:
jacket, coat, hat, handbag, purse, 1950s, 50s, Lentati (br). 372 Blandford Fashion Museum: (br, Mirror / Mirrorpix (tl). Corbis: Mauro Carraro /
historic, historical, skirt, elegant, elegance, bc). V&A Images \ Victoria and Albert Museum, Sygma (tr); Joe Giron (bl); Condé Nast Archive (tc). Museum of London
Schurmann, Schuermann / Interfoto (bc). Corbis: London: (tr). 373 Advertising Archives: (cra). Getty Images: Rosie Greenway (br); J. Quinton 150 London Wall, London, EC2Y 5HN, UK
Two Women with Prize Winning Cat / Blue Lantern Getty Images: AFP (tl). V&A Images \ Victoria (bc). 413 Alamy Images: Trinity Mirror / Mirrorpix www.museumoflondon.org.uk
Studio (bl). 333 Blandford Fashion Museum: (tr). and Albert Museum, London: (c). 374-375 (tc). Corbis: Andrew Gombert / epa (c). Getty Features: Embroidered Mantua; Streamlined Court
Getty Images: Art Rickerby (br). Photo SCALA, TopFoto.co.uk: Colin Jones. 374 Fotolia: Yuri Images: Jeff Kravitz (bl); Joe McNally (tl); Victor Suit; Dance Dress; Plus Fours Suit
Florence: Brooklyn Museum Costume Collection at Arcurs. 376 Blandford Fashion Museum: (bc, bl, Virgile (tr); Neil Mockford (br). 414-415 Getty
The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Gift of the clb). V&A Images \ Victoria and Albert Museum, Images: Bloomberg. 415 Alamy Images: Trinity The Blandford Fashion Museum
Brooklyn Museum, 2009; Gift of Mr. and Mrs. London: (tr, bc, br). 378-379 Photograph by Mirror / Mirrorpix (tr). 416 Alamy Images: Trinity Lime Tree House, The Plocks, Blandford Forum,
Robert Zicklin, 1985 (2009.300.555) / Art Resource John Chase: Olive Matthews Collection, Chertsey Mirror / Mirrorpix (tl). Corbis: Reimschuessel / Dorset, DT11 7AA, UK
(c). 334 Blandford Fashion Museum: (c). Dorling Museum (all). 380 Getty Images: Hulton Archive / Splash News (bl); Frank Trapper (tr, br). Getty www.theblandfordfashionmuseum.co.uk
Kindersley: Judith Miller / Wallis and Wallis (ca, bl); Frank Barralt (bc). V&A Images \ Victoria and Images: Steve Granitz (bc); SGranitz (tc). 417 Assistance on photoshoots: Isobel Gilpin, Ann Bell,
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(bl). Alamy Images: Trinity Mirror / Mirrorpix (br). Nast Archive (tr). Getty Images: Hulton Archive / (bl); Vincent Kessler / Reuters (c); Andrew Ross (r). Features: Sack Back Dress; Regency Pelisse;
337 Alamy Images: Trinity Mirror / Mirrorpix (bc). Roy Jones (tl); Hulton Archive (br). 382 Blandford 418 Corbis: Reuters. 419 Alamy Images: Trinity Bustle Skirt; Women’s Legion (see picture credits
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Miller / Cloud Cuckoo Land (cra, crb); Judith Miller / Condé Nast Archive (tr). Dorling Kindersley: Judith (c, bl, br); Condé Nast Archive (cr). 420 Alamy
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Maeder (tr). 338 Blandford Fashion Museum: Getty Images: Samir Hussein (bl). 421 Alamy Features: Women’s Shoes (see picture credits for
(tr). Corbis: Bettmann (bc). Getty Images: Hulton Images \ Victoria and Albert Museum, London: Images: Marco Mega (l, bc, br); Trinity Mirror / full listing)
Archive / Brian Challis (tc); Retrofile / George Marks Mirrorpix (ftr). Corbis: WWD / Condé Nast (tl, tc,
(fbl); Hulton Archive / Keystone (bl). V&A Images \ (bl). 383 Alamy Images: Trinity Mirror / Mirrorpix tr). 422 Banbury Museum: (fcl, cl). Blandford The Olive Matthews Collection
Victoria and Albert Museum, London: (br). 339 (bl). Corbis: Steve Schapiro (bc, r). V&A Images \ Fashion Museum: (fcr, br, bl). 423 Banbury Chertsey Museum, 33 Windsor Street, Chertsey,
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(crb, br). TopFoto.co.uk: Ken Russell (bl). V&A Jan Butchofsky (c); Quadrillion (cra); Rune Hellestad statuette of a priest found in Saqqara in 1872,
(cr). 387 Alamy Images: Trinity Mirror / Mirrorpix Egypt / Sandro Vannini (tc). Getty Images: Hulton Central Saint Martins College of Art
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(tl, c, tr). 342-343 Corbis: John Springer Collection. Getty Images: Hulton Archive (tc). 389 Corbis: Images: Detail of two falconers, from the Stag Granary Building,
343 Fotolia: Yuri Arcurs. 344 Alamy Images: Bureau L.A. Collection (tc). Getty Images: Room, Palais des Papes, Avignon / The Bridgeman 1 Granary Square, King’s Cross, London,
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Images: Popperfoto (r). 345 Advertising (tr). V&A Images \ Victoria and Albert Museum, Library (c); Science & Society Picture Library (cr); www.csm.arts.ac.uk
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Features (tl); Don Cravens (bc). 346 Corbis: H. WWD / Condé Nast (br). Dorling Kindersley: Museum: (bc, br). The Shoe Museum: Spiceball Park Road, Banbury, OX16 2PG, UK
Armstrong Roberts / ClassicStock (bc); Camerique / Dominic Winter / Fieldings Auctioneers (bc). Getty W17+sD16 (cla); W18bD9 (cra); W17+sD25 (ca); www.banburymuseum.org
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347 Alamy Images: Keystone Pictures USA (bl). Alamy Images: Trinity Mirror / Mirrorpix (tl). W19+sD2 (bl). V&A Images \ Victoria and Albert Museum Resource Centre
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Condé Nast Archive (br). Getty Images: Hulton Images \ Victoria and Albert Museum, London: Auctioneers (bc). The Shoe Museum: W17sD1 (tr); Felicity J Warnes
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Douglas Kirkland (bl, cr). Getty Images: Hulton Images: Princess Diana Archive (crb, cr); Tim Images \ Victoria and Albert Museum, London: www.fjwarnes.u-net.com
Archive (tl, clb). 352 Dorling Kindersley: Judith Graham (br). V&A Images \ Victoria and Albert (tl). 428 Banbury Museum: (tr). Blandford Over 20,000 books on costume, jewelry, lace,
Miller / Freeman’s (br). V&A Images \ Victoria and Museum, London: (tc). 394 Corbis: Reuters. 395 Fashion Museum: (br, cla, fcla, fcra, cr, fcl, cl, fcr, textiles, fashion, beads, embroidery, and needlework
Albert Museum, London: (bc). 352-383 Dorling Alamy Images: Trinity Mirror / Mirrorpix (tr). bcr). V&A Images \ Victoria and Albert
Kindersley: Judith Miller (t). 353 Corbis: Condé Corbis: Kipa / Eric Fougere (cr); Reuters (c). Getty Museum, London: (ca, bl, bc). 429 Blandford Angels the Costumiers & Angels Fancy Dress
Nast Archive (l). Dorling Kindersley: Judith Miller / Images: AFP (br). Press Association Images: Fashion Museum: (cr, fcl, tcl, tcr, tr, cla, cra, cl, fcr, 1 Garrick Road, London, NW9 6AA, UK
Steinberg and Tolkien (tc); Judith Miller / Roxanne (bl). 396 Alamy Images: Trinity Mirror / Mirrorpix fcla). Getty Images: AFP (br); FilmMagic (bc). V&A www.angels.uk.com
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354 Alamy Images: Interfoto (cl); Pictorial Press Ltd (bc). Getty Images: Andrea Blanch (bl). 397 Alamy Images \ Victoria and Albert Museum, London: Sarah Thursfield
(bl). Getty Images: Popperfoto (c); (bc). 355 Getty Images: Trinity Mirror / Mirrorpix (tr). Corbis: (tl, bl, cr). 430 Alamy Images: Peter Horree (bc). The Medieval Tailor
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Library: Museum Purchase (tr). Corbis: Bettmann Lock / I-Images / ZUMA Press (r). Getty Images: Blandford Fashion Museum: (tcr). Dorling Features: Short Tunic and Peplos Style; Cote-hardie;
(bl); Condé Nast Archive (bc, br). V&A Images \ AFP / Yoshikazu Tsuno (bc); Stan Honda (bl). Kindersley: Judith Miller (cra); Judith Miller / Wallis Doublet and hose
Victoria and Albert Museum, London: (tc). 357 398 Alamy Images: Trinity Mirror / Mirrorpix (tl). and Wallis (cl). Getty Images: (br); MCT (bl). 432 Sarah Thursfield started to sew over 50 years ago
Corbis: Condé Nast Archive (r). TopFoto.co.uk: 399 Alamy Images: Trinity Mirror / Mirrorpix (tr). Banbury Museum: (tr, cl). Blandford Fashion and took City and Guilds Fashion in the early
Roger-Viollet (bl). V&A Images \ Victoria and 400 Alamy Images: Trinity Mirror / Mirrorpix (tl). Museum: (cr). Photograph by John Chase: Olive 1980s, since when she has been supplying clothing
Albert Museum, London: (tl). 358-359 Mirrorpix: The Bridgeman Art Library: Cape, pants, and Matthews Collection, Chertsey Museum (ca). V&A to reenactors and museums. She researched and
Julian Brown. 359 Fotolia: Yuri Arcurs. 360 Corbis: clogs, 1973 (cotton plain weave), Yamamoto, Kansai wrote The Medieval Tailor’s Assistant (Ruth Bean
Hulton-Deutsch Collection (tr). Getty Images: Terry (b.1944) / Philadelphia Museum of Art, Images \ Victoria and Albert Museum, London: 2001) and continues to investigate and reconstruct
O’Neill (c). V&A Images \ Victoria and Albert Pennsylvania, USA / Gift of Hess’s Department Store, (bl, bc). 433 Banbury Museum: (cr, bl). Blandford the methods of early tailors and seamstresses and
Museum, London: (bl). 361 Blandford Fashion Allentown, 1974 (tr). Corbis: William Coupon (clb). Fashion Museum: (tc, cl). The Bridgeman Art to teach these to others.
Museum: (tl). Corbis: CinemaPhoto (bc); Condé Getty Images: Daniel Simon (bc). V&A Images \ Library: Portrait of Mette (Mathildis) von
Nast Archive (cr). Dorling Kindersley: Judith Miller Victoria and Albert Museum, London: (br). 401 Munchhausen, by Ludger Tom Ring the Younger / The publisher would like to thank the following
/ Linda Bee (tr); Judith Miller / Mary Ann’s Collectible Alamy Images: Trinity Mirror / Mirrorpix (ftr). Getty Hamburger Kunsthalle, Hamburg, Germany, (ca). people from Smithsonian Enterprises:
(cra); Judith Miller (ftr). 362 Photo SCALA, Images: Gamma-Rapho (bc, r, tr). V&A Images \ Photograph by John Chase: Olive Matthews Carol LeBlanc, Vice President;
Florence: The Metropolitan Museum of Art / Art Victoria and Albert Museum, London: (tl, tc, bl). Collection, Chertsey Museum (cl, cra, tl). V&A Brigid Ferraro, Director of Licensing;
Resource / Gift of Mrs. Claus von Bülow, 1971 402 Corbis: WWD / Condé Nast. 403 Alamy Ellen Nanney, Licensing Manager;
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Museum, London: (bl, bc). 362-363 The WWD / Condé Nast (c). Getty Images: Gamma- (crb, bc). 434 Getty Images: Hola Images (t). 437
Bridgeman Art Library: Gift of Judy Robinson. Rapho (bc). Rex Features: Evening Standard (br); Corbis: Biserka Livaja (b); Marilyn Angel Wynn / Dorling Kindersley would like to thank the
363 Dorling Kindersley: Judith Miller / Sara Covelli SIPA (cr). 404 Alamy Images: Trinity Mirror / Nativestock Pictures (t). 445 Fotolia: Franck Boston following people for their help in the
(bc); Judith Miller (br). Photo SCALA, Florence: Mirrorpix (tl). Getty Images: Manchester Daily (b). 449 Alamy Images: Imagebroker (t). preparation of this book:
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Gift of Baron Philippe de Rothschild, 1983 Images: David Hoffman Photo Library (tc); Trinity 450 Getty Images: Jupiter Images (b). 454 Getty UK
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Albert Museum, London: (tl, tr). 364 Dorling Reuters (bc); Neal Preston (tl). Getty Images: Ian Hunting Dance Near the Engooi Mountains, from Laura Wheadon, and Wendy Horobin.
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David Graves (c). 365 TopFoto.co.uk. 366 Alamy Images: Oliver Morris (bc). 407 Alamy Images: AF Images: Imagemore Co., Ltd. (t); Runstudio (b). Design assistance: Johnny Pau, Laura Roberts,
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Albert Museum, London: (bc, br). 367 Rex Grecco (tl); Dave Hogan (r). 408-409 Rex Proofreading: Caroline Hunt and Joanna Chisholm.
Features: (br). V&A Images \ Victoria and Albert Features: Paul Massey. 409 Alamy Images: Trinity Jacket images: Front: keepdesigning.com: Index: Helen Peters.
Museum, London: (tc, l). 368 The Bridgeman Mirror / Mirrorpix (tr). 410 Alamy Images: Trinity ~gtsat c; Front Endpapers: Getty Images:
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(r). 369 Getty Images: Frederic Lewis (tr); Terrence (bl); Reuters (r). Getty Images: Jeff Christensen Editorial assistance: Gaurav Joshi, Vibha Malhotra,
(bc); SGranitz (tc). 411 Alamy Images: Trinity All other images © Dorling Kindersley. For Suparna Sengupta, Antara Moitra, and Monica
Saigal. Design assistance: Jomin Johny, Priyanka
further information see: www.dkimages.com Singh, and Shreya Sadhan