Pasticceria Internazionale World Wide Edition-2011

PA S T RY B A K E RY G E L AT O C U I S I N E

Supplemento al n. 239, giugno-luglio-agosto 2011 di Pasticceria Internazionale - Sped. in A. P. - D.L. 353/2003 (conv. in L. 27/02/2004 n° 46) art. 1, comma 1, DCB TO - n. 02/2011 - IP - ISSN 0392-4718 A FOCUS ON
WEDDING CAKES

AN INTERVIEW WITH
GARY RULLI

GELATO FESTIVAL

ITALIAN RECIPES
AT INTERNATIONAL
COMPETITIONS

CUISINE

TECHNOLOGY
AND PRODUCTS

NEWS

issue nineteen-2011 CHIRIOTTI 10064 PINEROLO - ITALIA - Tel. +390121393127 - Fax +390121794480
EDITORI www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - [email protected]

It’s time for comfort.

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In this issue Pasticceria Internazionale World Wide Edition
A focus on wedding cakes 10064 Pinerolo (Torino)
And that makes eight
The 12th World Pastry Cup Viale della Rimembranza 60
Success for the first tel. +39 0121 393127 - fax +39 0121 794480
Juniores Pastry World Cup
Gelato festival [email protected]
A busy autumn for Identità Golose
A healthy contrast EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
Livia Chiriotti
News SENIOR EDITOR
Emilia Coccolo Chiriotti
Compact quality preservation NEWS EDITORS
190th anniversary of Sangue Morlacco Cristina Quaglia
From appetizer to dessert Milena Novarino
2nd place for Italy at the Monica Onnis
European Bakery Cup ASSISTANT EDITOR
In Cortemilia, the best hazelnut Chiara Comba
dessert of Italy TRANSLATIONS
Pure vanilla products Alexander Martin
A new egg, lemon and cinnamon MARKETING EDITOR
dessert Monica Pagliardi
Double Salon ADVERTISING DIRECTOR
du Chocolat in Paris Luigi Voglino [email protected]
A consultant as a friend ART DIRECTOR
The 5th gelato World Cup in Sigep Studio Impagina
Expos and events in Italy PRINTED BY
Italian quality conquers the US Tipografia Giuseppini
professional market
Trendy fantasy Pasticceria Internazionale World Wide Edition
1st Chicago Restaurant Pastry is happily published in Italy by Chiriotti Editori
Competition Copyright © 2011 by Chiriotti Editori
Small Temptations All rights reserved
Sigep 2012 highlights No part of this magazine may be reproduced
confectionery worldwide without prior written permission
Cutting boards with antibacterial from the publishing house
disposable films
Micron ball refiner Supplement of “Pasticceria Internazionale”
Ciocofantasy in Cornigliano n. 239 June - July - August 2011

ON OUR COVER
Natural lemon
Alessandro Racca

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PASTRY A FOCUS ON
WEDDING CAKES

The recipes and suggestions of some well known Italian pastry chefs

3-D butterflies

The butterfly cake has a traditional sponge base filled with vanilla Royal icing
butter cream and chocolate chips.
The sponge is lightly soaked, only on the inside, using a liquid aroma, egg whites g 40
that is high in sugar content, flavoured with orange juice or straw-
berry. A thin spread of white butter cream enables a complete co- sifted icing sugar g 350
vering with the sugar mass.
The decoration consists of previously prepared icing but- lemon juice g 12
terflies.
Whisk the egg whites, add the icing sugar and beat, lightly at first, then
once with the sugar incorporated, at maximum speed for one minute.
Add the lemon juice and beat for another minute.

PREPARATION
On baking paper, draw the half butterflies
(right and left side), then using the sac-à-
poche make a few edges in icing, adding
a few drops of water and possibly some
colours of your choice. Let it dry for a day.
The next day, fill in the spaces on the in-
side of the dry edge using more liquid icing
of a different colour, depending on the re-
quest. Let it dry overnight.
The next day, attach the wings with the icing
and add the antennas; place them in an une-
ven mould that gives the effect of half-closed
wings. The ideal is for the butterflies to be sli-
ghtly different to each other, both regarding
the opening of the wings and their shape, so

as to look like different species.
The work takes a long
time, but the end
result is worth it.

Gino Fabbri

Bologna, Italy

www.ginofabbri.com

Very romantic pink butterflies
take flight from the white cake,
in an appealing three-dimensional display.
Gino Fabbri decorates with a mass of sugar
and frosting, instead of pulled sugar.

2 2011 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 19

ALESSANDRO DALMASSO of the Pasticceria Dalmasso of The sponge helps with the modelling,
Avigliana, Turin, is widely regarded for his ceremonial cakes, giving volume and lightness.
from children's birthdays to weddings.
“There is a difference between eating an Italian cake and a For more shiny and realistic effects
sponge – Dalmasso specifies – but the aesthetics require a (to be stored in the refrigerator),
compromise. So I have it tasted first to make sure the two fla- colour the flowers in coloured
vours are understood. I prefer clients to taste first in order to
decide and understand what they are ordering, if anything so cocoa-butter frosting instead of the
that they do not complain later. Many who ask for American usual food colouring (photo Altaris).
Pie, after having tasted it, change idea." As for the covering,
cream has constraints in terms of exposition times, both re-
garding delivery and climate; alternatively almond paste can be
used. Alessandro adds: "Many customers do not understand
and want the cream cake to remain on display for hours: in
these cases I recommend a polystyrene cake with covering,
decorations and frosting, while the one for eating is stored in
the kitchen." www.pasticceriadalmasso.com

“This year we have a boom in requests for black & white wedding cakes –, says STEFANO ZIZ-
ZOLA, owner of two pastry shops respectively in Noale, near Venezia, and Trebaleseghe, near Pa-
dova –. Our typical cakes are usually white and ivory with floreal decorations (roses, orchids and
callas) and most of them (80%) are based on two combinations of tastes. Bresciana Zizzola in-
cludes a crunchy and crumbly cocoa and almond short pastry base, a chocolate and coffee biscuit
with a light mascarpone mousse, and it is covered with dark chocolate leaves. Angelina is compo-
sed of a crunchy hazelnut short pastry layer, a biscuit with Maraschino and a soft custard with roa-
sted almonds. Otherwise, those who prefer more classical tastes can choose between a sponge
cake or a multilayer millefeuille with chocolate cream or a chantilly with fresh raspberry pulp”.

From left Stilè, a double
layer sugarpaste cake with
chocolate flowers and rib-
bons. Rosa Vellutata’s dra-
pery, roses and leaves are
made of plastic chocolate;
the shiny effect is obtained
sprinkling some pearly pow-
der on its surface. Poesia is
a “readable” cake: the ver-
ses chosen by the bride and
bridegroom are written with
a decorating tip. Calle is de-
corated with the classical
flowers (foto Bononi).

2011 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 19 3

PASTRY White, red dot

Sponge
eggs g 1500

glucose g 300
sugar g 1500
flour g 1500

potato starch g 560
eggs g 1000

honey g 100

Heat to 40°C eggs, sugar and glucose, whisk and after
about 10 minutes drizzle in the honey and egg yolks, then
the flour. Bake at 170°C for about 25-30 minutes.

Light cream

custard g 1000

soft whipped cream g 400

gelatin g 8

Dissolve the gelatin with some of the cream and add the
custard and the remaining cream, being careful not to form
lumps of jelly. You should not use the cream very cold at
this stage, because the cold could make the gelatine gel
quickly forming lumps.

IRBBAFAlmond paste to cover cake
peeled almonds g 500

sugar g 1000

glucose g 260

fondant sugar g 2200

Pulverize the almonds in a refiner with the ad-
dition of a little sugar icing, then mix the
lot, close tightly in clingfilm and let stand
at room temperature for at least 10
hours.

Tips for filling
Prepare the cake the day before, so
as to cut it more easily. Each step of
preparation is important to get a
precise and neat result.
Cut the cake into three pieces and
soak with the berry sauce: on the
first layer apply just cream and
sprinkle with crushed caramelized
hazelnuts; on the second, apply a
layer of light cream and dried ra-
spberries. Cover with the sponge
and apply light cream to the surface;
cool well. Remove from the mould;
apply a thin layer of white butter
cream. Cover with almond paste and
decorate with icing, roses and sugar.
Combine imagination with functiona-
lity. Ceremonial cakes are a serious
undertaking and the bride and bride-
groom are very demanding: the sweet
must surprise yet at the same time be re-
fined.

Francesco Elmi

Regina di Quadri Pasticceria, Bologna

www.reginadiquadri.eu

Photo Giancarlo Bononi

This cake with a similar decoration appears in “Il sacrificio di Isacco” (The Sacrifice of Isaac),
an artistic picture by the photographer Giancarlo Bononi, which is inspired by Caravaggio’s
work. Bononi is the author of an impressive photo gallery reproducing the attitudes of the cha-
racters and the wonderful play of shadows and light of the original paintings, but having the mo-
dels dressed with modern clothes and introducing a sweet element in each picture. Francesco
Elmi is the one on the right (see also www.piwwe.com).

45 8201 1.n1 --wmwowc.e.plaanstoicizcaenrriaeitnntiearirneaczcioitnsaaple.w.cowmw--n11.0192

www.luxardo.it

NEWS COMPACT QUALITY PRESERVATION 190th anniversary of

Nice is the new Sangue Morlacco

Irinox compact Cherry “Sangue Morlacco” li-

holding cabinet queur is Luxardo's second histori-

that fits easily in professional kitchens cal speciality after Maraschino

or labs. It runs both positive (+15°C) Originale. It was created in 1821

and negative temperatures (-25°C) by Girolamo Luxardo as a variant

and features Dynamic Power, an ex- of cherry brandy made with ma-

clusive cooler specifically designed rasca cherries, i.e. a sour

by Irinox which keeps set holding cherry variety exclusively cul-

temperatures, avoiding sudden chan- tivated by Luxardo. It is ob-

ges that usually occur due to frequent tained by the infusion of

use and that can damage food. fermented marasca juice

Solid construction, special safety sy- and it is matured for two

stems (slow magnetic closing) and a years in oak vats. This

specific control system are a further cherry liqueur was renamed

guarantee of constant temperature. as Sangue Morlacco (Mor-

The efficiency of the exclusive defro- lacco blood) by the Italian

sting system stops ice forming and poet Gabriele D'Annunzio in

the consequent cut-outs which often 1919, at the time of his mili-

occur in ordinary fridges. Nice can be tary action in order to have

used continuously without having to Italy annex the town of

turn it off to achieve perfect defro- Fiume. “Sangue” refers to its

sting. To preserve food properly and dark red colour, while "Morlacco" is

to avoid food damage (too dry or too derived from the name of a proud population

damp) the right humidity is also im- of the Dalmatian hinterland. It is quite different

portant. The humidity control system from normal cherry-brandies, because of the

makes it possible to create the ideal intensity of the Marasca sour cherry typical

atmosphere inside the holding cabi- taste and the expansion of its after-taste. It

Nice delivers the full quality of an Irinox hol- net and levels ranging from 50% to can be served neat, at room temperature or

ding cabinet in a compact version suitable for 95% can be set to meet individual with ice, as after dinner drink, as ingredient in

professional kitchens and labs. needs. www.irinox.com

many international cocktails, and it is highly

recommended with pure dark chocolate.

In order to celebrate the 190th anniversary of

the liquer, the packaging has recently under-

From appetizer to dessert gone a restyling, with the introduction of a
more rounded-shaped and heavy glass bottle,

the use of cork, and an old-fashioned label

A manufacturer of gelato and pastry machines, Bravo with a small Italian tricolour and D’Annunzio's
comes into the savoury world thanks to Trittico Executive, signature. www.luxardo.it

that can be used to cook, emulsify, temper, cool down and

as a blast freezer. The machine cooks in the upper part

and cools in the lower one: the upper vertical tank allows to control the

whole cooking process and to pour each ingredient at the right moment,

while in the lower tank the blast freezing and the cooling process occur. 2ND PLACE FOR ITALY AT THE
Tanks are completely independent and can work simultaneously, thus giving
EUROPEAN BAKERY CUP
the opportunity of performing two different processes at the same time. Mo-
reover, the two tanks are connected by an internal pipe (one of the 20 pa-

tents connected to Trittico) that ensures hygiene and quality, avoiding any

possible alteration during the passage from cooking to blast freezing. It ended with a prestigious second place for the Italian team of

Thanks to Trittico Executive additional market shares can be gained through the European Bakery Cup held in Nantes, France, in March.

the introduction of savoury specialities, since the machine can be used to Won by Luxembourg, the competition put both the French

make savoury mousses, béchamel sauce, vegetable soufflés, savoury jams, and Swiss behind the Italians, in a contest that involved the

cheese creams, sauces and concentrates. Moreover, through GSG Service creation of 6 types of bread and the same number of vienne-

(a company of the group specialized in marketing, communication and con- serie, as well as a piece of art all in bread, inspired by a monu-

sulting in the dessert business), Bravo offers a consulting day free of ment or place of their country. The three Richemont members

charge to the buyers of Trittico Executive or Business, with a Bravo Trittico of Italy’s national team were Riccardo Liccione, owner of the

Club expert. www.bravo.it Angolo del Pane of Frossasco, Turin, for the vienneserie; Ivan

Morosin of Torre Boldone, Bologna, for the six types of bread,

and Emanuela Isoardi of Bra, Cuneo, for the art piece. The

chosen theme for the various works was the Carnival of Ve-

nice.

6 2011 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 19

Gary Rulli

AND THAT
MAKES EIGHTAngeloAuriana

In February, Gary Rulli opened his eighth store in San Francisco, in keeping with his
professional obligations: since 1988, a boundless respect for Italy

For 22 years, the Emporio Gran Caffe of Larkspur, not far from San ther Rulli business), which is a glass structure with 50 seats. The
Francisco (United States), is the kingdom of Gary and Jeannie Rulli. other is at 2300 Chestnut Street in San Francisco Marina. Opera-
It is the quintessential Italian pastry shop, a café and wine bar. Over ting since February, this is the renovated Ristobar, appreciated both
time, this headquarters has been flanked by two cafes and a re- for good Italian food and fabulous wine shop, under sommelier Li-
staurant in Union Square in the heart of San Francisco, and four ou- berata Torlontano, including 16 dessert wines and beers, many from
tlets at the international airport. Italy. The interiors are carefully decorated with a large marble coun-
We have written about Gary on a number of occasions (see “Pa- ter and frescoes on the walls, especially one on the ceiling which
sticceria Internazionale” Nos. 60, 122, 129, 151, 231, 232). This frames an imposing Venetian glass chandelier. Most online critics
professional, whose mother is Italian, is a shining example of a se- give favourable reviews and recommend leaving some space for the
rious and determined entrepreneur. An honorary member of Acca- dessert “because this is where Gary shines, coming up with the best
demia dei Maestri Pasticceri Italiani, he has a strong attachment to of Italian-inspired pastries throughout the Bay Area, and around San
our country, which he visits often and celebrates both with his pa- Francisco”. The dessert menu includes 12 suggestions, from a cho-
stries and cuisine, but also through wines and his general educa- colate trilogy to a pudding with vanilla gelato, cannoli, semifreddo,
tion. gelato, and assorted biscuits.
Using entrepreneurial skill, a calm manner and an inquisitive and at- After working at the Valentino Restaurant in Santa Monica (Los An-
tentive spirit, Gary does not hold back on investments. Two of his geles), chef Angelo Auriana, a native of Bergamo, indulged himself
most recent projects are in downtown San Francisco: the Banca- in the kitchen, going from rustic to more sophisticated dishes, and
rella Salumi Wine Bar on the busy Union Square (just opposite ano- starting with handmade pasta. The menu includes cold meat and

2011 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 19 7

PASTRY

On the left, gluttony in a glass: rum baba with caramelized pistachios, mandarin and orange sauce. Italian-style mignon.

cheese dishes, lamb meatballs with zucchini sauce, pizza and many How do you organize your workday?
other delicacies. An Italian spirit of course pervades the lot. I start early at the computer, checking sales in all stores; then I ar-
This begs the question: how does Gary manage to run this com- rive at 7 in the laboratory to check all the orders of the week. I or-
pany, while always remaining calm and approachable? It must have ganise the team, beginning with the working of the yeast and
something to do with his wife and children (Giancarlo 20, and Ales- doughs, both savoury and sweet. Then I have meetings with sup-
sandro 16), as well as his sister Lauren, who manages the various pliers, with the director of operations and with the shop managers. I
rooms, and who for the last three years has been accompanied by do some admin work, and then meet with staff until evening, when
Randy Wilcox, director of operations. I supervise the restaurant.
A proven team that runs the various activities: the operational heart
remains the central laboratory of Larkspur, from which products leave You have a new passion to keep you busy, don't you?
for Union Square and, twice a day, to the retail outlets at the airport. At the beginning of 2010 I signed up for a university course on orga-
nic vegetable gardens, and I now also set aside some time for my ve-
GARY’S WORLD getable patch at home. Last season I harvested over 25 pounds of
"The more I learn, the more I am passionate about my work!". With tomatoes a day for the cafeteria and restaurant. It took two years to
his light eyes and kind look, Gary traces his career from the United develop my own organic vegetable patch in the hills of San Rafael,
States to Italy and then back to the United States. where I can grow several varieties of lettuce, tomatoes, fresh herbs ...
and even berries. It is a useful hobby that also relieves a lot of stress!

The cover of the 2011 calendar that the Emporio Rulli distributed to custo-
mers. The picture shows Union Square with one of Rulli's shops on the far
right. On the right, petits fours clearly of Italian tradition.

8 2011 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 19

Two Ristobar specialties.
Below, an Italian style selection of cakes.

How does the main lab serve the other stores? year, as well as the shops in Union Square, open from 7 to
We cook three times a day: at 6, at 11 and at 9, supplying fresh products 22, 364 days a year. All the pastry is produced in Larkspur,
to the airport shops which are open from 5 a.m. to midnight, 365 days a except for what is made in Ristobar, which has its own pro-
duction area.

How do you mix Italian culture with American tastes?
Since 1988 we have always aspired to be authentic. After
more than 22 years, we still do not offer muffins, bagels or
American-style cakes. It has not always been the easy way or
the most profitable, but I think it has allowed us to be unique,
proud of our craftsmanship and of our Italian roots.

New recipes, new tastes and new forms: how do you come up

with innovations?
I have collected cookbooks and magazines for years. I believe
in being continually up-to-date and I tend to personalise every
recipe. I have good memories of when I was a trainee in Milan
and Turin, and I often find myself looking for classic creations
of the period, aiming to mix them with contemporary expe-
riences.

What is your favourite dessert?
Anything with apples, which remind me of homemade cakes.

What Italian dishes do your customers prefer?
Without doubt the panettone and the whole range of leavened
products for breakfast, as well as biscuits. Among the cakes,
the San Francisco with baked meringue and fresh raspberries,
and the Saint-Honoré.

What festive leavened products do you offer?
In addition to the panettone and pandoro, the Yule Log, the
Morenita (with meringue, fruit and whipped cream) and the
Genoese, in addition to Befanini (aniseed biscuits), colombe,
the pastiera and zeppole.

How do you see the future of our industry?
As a craftsman, I believe that we must continue to differen-
tiate ourselves with quality, expanding our markets, and using
the internet, not just selling more, but educating consumers
and promoting the craftsman's way of doing things. Quality at
the highest level is the only way forward.

http://rulli.com - ristobarsf.com

2011 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 19 9

PASTRY SPRING

Rustic pistachio base board, as decoration, and add a little icing sugar. Bake at 170°C for 15-
20 minutes. Store in a freezer at -20°C if required, or use immediately
caster sugar g 750 once cold.
fresh egg whites g 1500
powdered egg whites g 10 Garnish
peeled almonds g 800
mascarpone g 500
pistachios g 1200 cream g 500
g 100
icing sugar g 600 pistachio paste g 200
yeast g 20 icing sugar g 300
g 200
potato starch g 200 whipped cream
ground pistachios to decorate
Whisk the cream, mascarpone and pistachio paste. Add the whipped
Grind almonds, icing sugar, potato starch, yeast, and pistachios in the cream with sugar and mix until smooth. With a pastry bag, make spirals
blender to obtain a coarse mixture. Beat the egg whites until stiff, ad- from the centre with the pistachio cream until you reach the edge of the
ding the sugar a little at a time. Wet the 3.5 cm high steel rings with rustic base. Cover the cream with fresh raspberries; sprinkle some pi-
water and pour the first mixture into the second one, being careful with stachios and icing sugar over top. Store in refrigerator at 3°C for 2 days
the egg whites as in a normal sponge biscuit. With a pastry bag and a at most.
plain nozzle, make spirals on a baking sheet and then create spikes on
the edge of the rings to get a border. Drop the crushed pistachios on the Gary Rulli
San Francisco, Usa

10 2011 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 19

color EX

plus EX

Futura
r200

injection

comfit maxi
Via Statale, 151 - 12069 Santa Vittoria d’Alba (CN) - Tel. +39.0172.479273/75 (r.a.) - Fax +39.0172.477814 - www.selmi-group.it - [email protected]

CONTEST

THE 12TH
WORLD PASTRY CUP

At the 12th World Pastry Cup – held in January in Lyon-Eurexpo, won the silver medal and € 7,000 in prize money, thanks to their
France, as a part of the Sirha – Spain won: Jordi Bordas San- desserts and artistic works inspired to the magic creatures of an
tacreu, Josep Maria Guerola and Julien Alvarez were awarded enchanted wood (see the following pages). The Belgian team
the trophy created by Antoine Arnaud, the gold medal, and also € came out third: Dieter Charels, Marijns Coertens and Pascal
12,000 in prize money. Italy achieved second place with Davide De Deyne won the bronze medal and € 4,000 in prize money. Se-
Comaschi, Domenico Longo and Emmanuele Forcone: they veral special prizes were also given, such as the press award of-
fered by “Pasticceria Internazionale” to Japan.
Above, the Italian team. Shown here, Gabriel Paillasson interviewed by the Each team was composed of a pastry chef, a chocolate specialist
speaker during the competition. and a gelato maker, while the jury – presided over by Jérôme De
Oliveira, leader of the team that won the 2009 edition – included
judges from the 19 participating countries. Gabriel Paillasson,
president founder, and Pascal Molines, president of the Interna-
tional Organising Committee, were partnered by the Japanese pa-
stry chefs Mitsuo Hara and Kazuaki Takaï as honorary
presidents of the event.
The next edition is scheduled from 26 to 30 January 2013 in Lyon.
The Organising Committe decided to strengthen the presence of
African teams at the 13th edition of the World Pastry Cup and thus
organized the first edition of the Coupe d’Afrique last March, which
was won by Egypt. Also the Ivory Coast team has been admitted
to the international competition. www.cmpatisserie.com

12 2011 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 19

ENCHANTMENT IS A PLATED DESSERT MADE WITH CUPCAKES,
CHOCOLATE SPONGE CAKE, MASCARPONE GELATO, MASCARPONE CRÉMEUX,

WHITE COFFEE AND AMALFI LEMON LIGHT MOUSSE.

ALCHEMY IS A GELATO CAKE MADE WITH SPONGE CAKE WITH PISTACHIO,
PISTACHIO AND MASCARPONE GELATO, MANGO, BANANA AND STRAWBERRY SORBET,
RASPBERRY GELLY, MERINGUE AND CITRUS PARFAIT.

2011 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 19 13

CONTEST Nymph
chocolate cake

As mythological characters of the woods, the nymphs of oak trees, or passion fruit powder g 1,5
dryads, embody the strength and luxuriance of vegetation. The evocative calibrated caramelized
power of the flavours, the magic of consistencies, and the harmony of co-
lours: they all take us back to enchantment. From a thin chocolate hazelnuts g 30
sponge are diffused the flavours of cocoa and vanilla, the fragrance of
hazelnut, the freshness of exotic fruits, finally to meet the consistency of Melt the liquid butter and the chocolate, the praline and hazelnut paste.
the almond brittle and the surprise of the glaze covering. Mix well with the passion fruit powder and add the chopped crunchy.
Spread on a thick bar.

Thin chocolate sponge cake Vanilla mascarpone cream
sugar
yolks g 280 water g 120
yolks g 31
sugar g 190 g 80
mascarpone g 325
egg whites g 360 cream g 325
g7
sugar g 120 Italgel Fast gelatin n. 1
Tahiti vanilla bean
Ovoneve g4

cocoa g 40

Valrhona 64% Tainori chocolate g 160

flour g 80 Orizaba chocolate caramel
caster sugar
cream g 160 liquid butter g 138
g 24
Whisk the egg yolks slightly heated with sugar, whisk in the meantime the butter Corman g 24
egg whites with sugar, cream of tartar and the Ovoneve. In the meantime, fresh cream g 268
create an emulsion of chocolate and cream. Combine the two whipped glucose g 12
masses, add the sieved powder and finally the emulsion of chocolate salt g5
and cream. Spread thin, bake valve closed at 220°C for about 8 minu- g6
tes. vanilla cocktail g 199
Orizaba chocolate g 23
Custard base g6
cocoa butter
milk g 345 Italgel Fast gelatin

cream g 230

yolk g 128

sugar g 58 Sablé Breton

vanilla pod no. 1 egg yolks g 160
caster sugar g 320
Boil milk and cream with the vanilla, add egg yolks mixed in advance with g 320
the two sugars and bake at 83°C. Strain and use immediately. butter

Manjari mousse flour g 450
baking powder g 30
custard g 325 g5
salt
Manjari chocolate 64% g 380

whipped cream uht Corman g 450 Whip the egg yolks with sugar. Meanwhile, sift together the flour and ba-
king powder. When the yolks are installed, add the butter cream, then the
Create an emulsion with the custard and hot chocolate, when the mix- mixture of flour and yeast. Spread then 5 mm on a plate and let it sit be-
ture is at 38°C, lighten it with whipped cream. fore cooking or store in a freezer, uncooked. Cook, fan on at 155°-
160°C.
Mango, passion fruit and banana gelatin

passion fruit g 63 Cocoa glaze
puree Ravifruit g 38
g 25 water g 50
mango puree sugar g 376
mashed banana cream uht Corman g 416
gelatin Italgelatine g 32
sugar g 25
gelatin g 28 water g 160
g 14
water cocoa g 135
gelatin g 500
Melt some of the puree with sugar and gelatin rehydrated, add the re-
maining puree, strain and reduce temperature. Boil water with gelatin, add the cream and boil, then sugar and boil, then
cocoa and boil and finally rehydrated gelatin and simmer. Emulsify and fil-
Crunchy hazelnut g 36 ter. Chill. Use at 35°C.
Jivara milk chocolate 40%
almonds and hazelnut g 24 Caramelized hazelnuts g 80
praline 60% Valrhona g 30 water g 200
g5 sugar g 500
hazelnut paste Agrimontana g 55
liquid butter Valrhona g 45 hazelnuts

sablé Breton calibrated grain
Eclat d'Or

Emmanuele Forcone
Davide Comaschi
Domenico Longo

Luigi Biasetto (president)
Alessandro Dalmasso (coach)

Team Italy

14 2011 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 19

2011 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 19 15

CONTEST THE MAGIC CREATURES
OF THE ENCHANTED WOOD:
THE ITALIAN SHOWPIECES.

The Club della Coupe du Monde - Selezione Italia thanks

16 2011 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 19

GREETINGS

FROM SICILY

CANNOPIGNOLATA

Exterior dough kg 1 Meringue kg 1
flour g 100 sugar no 15
sugar g 100
lard g 300 egg whites to taste
wine g 50 lemon juice, cocoa,
no 4 vanilla and cinnamon
pure alcohol
egg g 600 Prepare the meringue and let it cool down.
no 8 Prepare, for the cannolo, a paste using the ingredients for the exterior
Pignolata cookie no 6 dough and fry in the lard, using a tin cylinder. Having made it rest a little,
Manitoba flour g 70 mix the ingredients for the biscuit dough, form into 4 cm pieces and fry
eggs in lard at 120°C.
egg yolks to taste Separate the cooled meringue into two parts. In one, add the lemon juice,
pure alcohol in the other chocolate, vanilla and cinnamon. Mix with the cooled cookie
lard and fill the big cannolo so it is white on one side and dark on the other.

Nino Costantino

Messina

Photo Salvatore Farina

2011 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 19 17

EVENTS

SUCCESS FOR THE
FIRST JUNIORES
PASTRY WORLD CUP

The Italian team triumphed at the first edition of
the Juniores Pastry World Cup, reserved to
under 23 international pastry chefs, which took
place last January in Rimini, during Sigep. Trained
by the team manager Federico Anzellotti and the
coach Gianluca Fusto, the young winners Andrea
Borgognoni and Antonio Daloiso were follo-
wed by South Korea and France at the end of
a contest involving 10 national teams, including
also Brasil, Morocco, Mexico, Singapore, United
States, South Africa and Switzerland. The video is
available online, www.sigep.it

MY DEAR...
coffee gelato stick

For 24 moulds chocolate liqueur g 24
UHT cream 35% g 190
Coffee and mascarpone sorbet
Boil the milk and sugar. Mix the egg yolks with the sugar. Dilute the hot
mineral water g 1337 milk on the egg yolk in 3 to 4 passes. Coagulate all at 84°C. Put in the
measuring jug and mix. Emulsify the custard over the chocolate as usual.
granulated sugar g 354 Whip the cream lightly, add the chocolate liqueur. Bring the two masses
together. Pour into moulds and blast chill.
atomized glucose g 118

invert sugar g 59

skimmed milk powder g 243 Espresso coffee gelatin

stabilizing agent SE 64 g 12 Blue Mountain Espresso g 193

mascarpone cheese g 825 mineral water g 169

coffee beans g 147 xanthan gel g2

coffee powder g7 granulated sugar g 171

Heat the water to 60°C. Add the coffee beans, previously heated in oven fresh lemon zest g 171
at 150°C. Soak for 40 minutes. Bring to a boil, filter, weigh and add the
water until you get the initial weight (120 g). Add to the stabilizing agent gelatin sheets or powder 200 g3
part of the granulated sugar. Add the milk powder to the water and heat
to 20°C. Then add invert sugar and heat to 25°C. Then add the atomi- Add the xanthan gel to the sugar. Dilute in a carafe a little at a time the
zed glucose and at 45°C the sugar with the stabilizing agent. Bring it to mixture of sugar water. Mix at least 5 minutes. Bring to a boil. Add the ge-
82°-84°C. Allow to cool in iced water. Heat the base at 20°C and emul- latine previously soaked. Add the espresso coffee and mix. Add the
sify with cold mascarpone. Cream at -7°C. lemon zest. Strain and refrigerate.

Frozen chocolate mousse g 119 Chocolate icing
whole UHT milk g 95 Guanaja chocolate
glucose syrup g 71 cocoa butter
egg yolk g 71
g 179 Heat the chocolate to 45°C, add the cocoa butter. Mix everything well,
granulated sugar in order to refine the micron structure of icing.
Extra Noire chocolate 53%
Andrea Borgognoni
Antonio Daloiso

18 2011 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 19

From the left, It all began, the Italian entremets. Walking on leaves; Between summer and winter; Autumn: the three Italian bonbons. Above, the Italian team. 19

2011 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 19

NEWS PURE VANILLA
PRODUCTS
In Cortemilia,
the best hazelnut Nielsen-Massey Vanillas has been producing
dessert of Italy pure vanilla products since 1907, for manu-
facturers of premium ice creams, gelato and
After the success
of last year, the novelties, chefs of fine restaurants and bake-
town of Cortemilia, ries. Whether for industrial or retail use, Niel-
in the province of
Cuneo, announces sen-Massey's Pure Vanillas are sought for
the 2nd edition of The Best Hazelnut Dessert their flavor and varied functionality. The com-
of Italy, which is held on 28 August during
the 12th IGP Piedmont Hazelnut Fair. Profes- pany’s corporate headquarters is located in
sionals throughout Italy are invited by the or- Waukegan, Illinois, USA, with ISO certified
ganizing committee – which, in addition to the production facilities in both Waukegan and at
Municipality, includes Livia Chiriotti of "Pastic- Nielsen-Massey Vanillas International, LLC in
ceria Internazionale" and Paolo Massobrio of Leeuwarden, Netherlands. All vanilla products
Golosario – to compete in six categories: best are Kosher certified, gluten-free certified, and
cookie, best cake, best gelato, best fresh pa- they have been a certified organic producer
stry, best chocolate bonbon, and best Crema
Novi sweet. Five professionals from each ca- since 1998.
tegory receive a nomination for the final, Madagascar Bourbon Pure Vanilla Bean
which will gives the individual winners plus Paste is a quality product, which is the best
the overall winner, who wins the prize for of both worlds — pure vanilla with the addi-
Best Hazelnut Dessert of Italy 2011. The jury tion of real vanilla bean seeds. It adds an all-
comprises journalists and technicians from natural gourmet appearance to any recipe
the world of food and wine. The special prize and is ideal for crème brûlée, cakes, gelato,
"Pasticceria Internazionale - Comune di Cor-
temilia" is issued to a person of international and icings. www.NielsenMassey.com
fame for his/her use of IGP Piedmontese ha-
zelnuts. Double Salon
[email protected] du Chocolat in Paris

A new egg, lemon The third edition of the biennial
and cinnamon dessert Salon du Chocolat Professionnel

By launching Ken Postres UHT internatio- will take place from 19th to 21st Oc-
nally, Ken continues to broaden its range of tober in Paris, Porte de Versailles.
products for professionals. It contains 100% The event will gather chocolatiers,
natural ingredients which blend into a cream pastry chefs, confectioners and ge-
containing eggs, milk, cream, sugar, lemon lato makers, offering a comprehen-
and cinnamon. By introducing this product, sive view of the market with the
Ken allows professionals to elaborate three whole industry represented – producing countries, ingre-
desserts while maintaining the traditional fla- dients and raw materials, equipment, packaging, interior
vor that a handcrafted dessert should pro- design, training... – and with seminars, conferences and
vide. The cream must be taken to boiling competitions, such as Les Masters de la Glace, the Inter-
point in order to obtain a crème brulée, war- national Cocoa Awards, and the World Chocolate Ma-
med up without reaching its boiling point to sters, organized by Barry Callebaut. 19 participants have
obtain a custard, or served as it comes. Ken been selected as best National Chocolate Masters and
Postres UHT is gluten-free and therefore will compete for the title World Chocolate Master 2011,
adequate for celiac consumers; it has a shelf-life of 180 working on the theme “Cocoa, Quetzalcoatl's Gift”.
days if kept at room temperature and must be kept at 0º- The Salon Grand Public will be staged from 20th to 24th
5ºC once opened. It is sold in individual Tetra Brik packs October giving space to international exhibitors, more than
of 1.5 litres. www.skisa.com 200 chefs and pastry chefs (also some Relais Desserts
members), demos, shows, a defilé of chocolate dresses,
meetings, labs, tastings...
www.salon-du-chocolat.com

www.worldchocolatemasters.com

CRÈME BRULÉE A consultant
Heat over a low fire until it simmers (approx. 85ºC). as a friend
Pour into bowls and allow to settle for at least 20 minutes
at room temperature. Gelato maker Giovannino Fittipaldi travels
Cool down (0º-5ºC) for at least an hour before serving. around the world in order to spread gelato
Sprinkle caster sugar over the top and caramelise using a culture, as he’s doing in Dubai and not only
mini-blow torch or iron broiler. for the Cavalli and Bo-House Cafè. If you

CUSTARD want to contact him, [email protected]
Heat over very low fire until thick.

READY TO USE
Open the packaging and allow the product to settle and
achieve room temperature.
Pour in the desired bowls.
Sprinkle some cinnamon over the surface.

20 2011 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 19

Approved
Event

GELATO

GELATO FESTIVAL

WATER BASED FRUIT FLAVOUR

Why milk is not required average almost all the fruit pulps;
In the past, sorbet probably had the lion's share of the market, only weak apples, melons and watermelons.
to be ousted from its position at the start of twentieth century, thanks With regards lemon juice, we must keep to a maximum of 25%; for
to industry and its massive use of milk. Milk is a primary food for average fruits we need between 50 and 60%, while for the weak
human consumption, but today, due to many allergies, its use is li- fruit we might need up to 80%, without the use of water. The follo-
mited or eliminated altogether in many foods, including fruit sorbets wing are some examples.
and gelato made with water only. This means an excellent fruit ge-
lato can be made without having to resort to liquid milk or powder.

How to maintain the softness MARA DES BOIS
We get the creaminess and keep it soft thanks to the perfect ba- STRAWBERRY
lance of ingredients and of the sugars in the mixture. The sugar con-
tent should be between 25 and 32% of the total. They are: 28% sugar, 50% pulp
• sucrose (65-80%) more common, less expensive, but too swee- 3000 g (small bowl)

tening; Mara des Bois strawberry pulp g 1500
• glucose syrup 42DE (20-35%) provides viscosity, controls cry-
sucrose g 505
stallization, but is difficult to dose;
• dried glucose syrup at 38DE (20-40%) provides higher viscosity dried glucose syrup 38DE g 180

than just syrup, it increases the total solids without changing the neutral for cold fruit g 15
recipe, and it decreases the feeling of cold on the palate;
• maltodextrins 18DE (2-5%) more concentrated, with almost iden- lukewarm water g 800
tical characteristics to dried glucose syrup, but with a higher cost;
• inulin (1-5%) gives creaminess to gelato and sorbets, reduces the Clean and blend the strawberries with 100 g of sucrose to obtain a
calories and sweetness, and has a higher price. puree. Mix the remaining sugar with the other powder ingredients
and pour in warm water at 40°C. Stir until completely dissolved,
How much fruit in gelato? add the strawberry pulp and whip as usual.
After considering the sugars, we can examine how much fruit we
need for a water-based gelato with a long-lasting taste on the pa- Note The strawberry as we understand it, red and juicy, is not a fruit
late. The fruit is subdivided into body, taste and consistency: but an inflorescence; the fruits are the small seeds located on the
strong lemon, lime, bitter orange, citrus, tropical fruits in general; surface. In French gardens it was used as an ornamental and me-
dicinal plant, later to become the fruit of the court of Louis XV of
France. It originated in Britain, and the Mara des Bois variety is cer-
tified as a cultivar. Its intense bouquet is reminiscent of wild straw-
berries; although relatively small, it is of outstanding sweetness and
flavour. It is also quite a hardy plant.

22 2011 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 19

2011 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 19 23

PASTRY

ECUADOR CHOCOLATE
SORBET

water g 1800
sucrose g 500
glucose syrup 42DE g 75
22% cocoa g 150

dextrose g 15
neutral for cold fruit g 10
Ecuador chocolate 75% g 450

Boil the water and add all powder ingredients previously mixed dry. Ha-
ving obtained the solution, add the chopped chocolate and whisk as
usual.

Note: In this recipe we have a lower percentage of neutral, thanks to the
cocoa butter as a stabilizer, naturally present in chocolate.

NATURAL LEMON

28% sugar, 22% lemon juice
3000 g (small bowl)

fresh Ligurian lemon juice g 600

sucrose g 550
dried glucose syrup 38DE g 150
g 15
neutral for cold fruit g 35
inulin g 1650

warm water

Grate the lemon zest in a part of sucrose (50 g), then
squeeze the lemons to get the juice. Mix the remaining
sucrose and all other dry ingredients and pour in warm
water at 40°C. Stir until completely dissolved, add the
juice and sugar with the zest and mix as usual.

Note: The 4 seasons lemon, for its quality and aroma (li-
monin), is grown exclusively in Liguria, in northern Italy.
This variety is indeed very resistant to the cold and to
parasites that commonly attack other citrus fruits.

Alessandro Racca
photos Giancarlo Bononi
(many thanks to Carpigiani for the shooting)

24 2011 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 19



GELATO BERRY SORBET AND
ORANGES AND PEPPER POCHÉ

Berry sorbet citric acid g3

Sarfrutta 50 g 180 sugar (sucrose) g 20
water g 2000
g 670 Place in the saucepan the sugar, glucose syrup, sliced oranges, and ber-
sucrose g 1000 ries and bring to a boil. Combine the pectin with 30 g of sugar and bake
blueberry puree at 65°C for 30 minutes. Add citric acid mixed with 20 g of sugar. Check
the pH, which should reach about 3.4 to 4. Put into sterilized jars, close
wildberry paste g 145 quickly, flip and place in cold water for several minutes.
dextrose g 70 This procedure allows the amylopectin to act and have a smooth and
g 70 creamy texture, as well as protecting the natural colour of the fruit.
dried glucose syrup g5
lemon juice

Mix the Sarfrutta 50 base with sucrose, dextrose and dried glucose Assembly
syrup; pour the water at 40°C and mix. Combine the wildberry pasta Serve with poché of fruit with berry sorbet in bowl or small vase. Garnish
with the blueberry puree; blend. Let it sit for at least 30 minutes and with fresh mint, dried oranges and green pepper.
cream.

Berries, oranges and pepper poché g 750 Emanuele Saracino
berries g 250 www.saracinogelati.com
g 700 photo Roberto Sammartini
oranges g 400
sugar g5
g 30
dried glucose syrup
pectin
sugar

26 2011 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 19



GELATO

ENCOUNTER
gelato cup

white base g 870
almond paste g 100
orange flower water g 30

Add the almond paste to the orange flower water and white base; cream.
Decorate with pine-seeds and fresh dates filled with almonds.

Farida Haggiagi
photo Salvatore Farina

28 2011 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 19

Ken Cream. The queen of freshness.

www.skisa.com

To contain such immense freshness, we’ve created a 1.5 litre All this quality is just too much for a litre!
carton. KEN cream is a traditional product which, thanks to
fast processing, heat treatment and innovative package, stays
fresh longer. A unique cream available in numerous formulas
to meet the various needs of professionals cooking and pastry.

Revolutionises the concept of cream.

KEN EUROPE, S.R.L.: M. Azzarita, 206 – 00189 Roma - Italy. Tel.: +39 06 33250200
LIASA, Lacteos Industriales Agrupados S.A.: Av. Rìo Henares, 80. Pol. Ind. Ròdano - 19208 Alovera - Guadalajara. Spain. Tel.: +34 949 266 510

CUISINE

A busy autumn for

IDENTITÀ GOLOSE

An eventful autumn awaits the team of Identità Golose - the international chef congress. They are busy exporting the successful format
abroad and the first rendez-vous will be in London, October 18, where an Open Day on the best of new Italian cuisine will be organized. The
traditional Milanese formula of the congress will be changed into a programme of live performances, i.e. meetings/classes with chefs, tastings
of high quality products and a gala dinner. They will take place in the prestigious Town Hall Hotel in the heart of the East End, a lively district
of the capital of England. The main show will be held in the luxury De Montfort Suite, the biggest in London, while some smaller suites equip-
ped with kitchen units will welcome the partners of the event and their hosts.
On 31 October and 1 November Identità Golose will move to New York City. Six well known Italian chefs – Massimo Bottura, Carlo
Cracco, Moreno Cedroni, Gennaro Esposito, Davide Scabin and Emanele Scarello – will be guests of Oscar Farinetti at Eataly, where they
will work four hands with six American chefs – Mario Batali, David Chang, Jonathan Benno, Michael White, Mark Ladner and Missy Robbins
– in the thematic restaurants of the mecca of Italian food in New York. In November Identità Golose will go back to Italy in Rome, at the
Open Colonna premises, on the top floor of Palazzo delle Esposizioni, with a preview of the main congress, which will be held in Milan, 5-
7 February 2012.
The following recipe was presented by Mehmet Gürs, the owner of Mikla restaurant in Istanbul, in January during the last edition of Iden-
tità Golose in Milan. www.identitagolose.it

PUMPKIN

Sweetened Pumpkin PR Remove the pan from heat and let the pumpkin cool down to room tem-
Yield: approx 30 pieces perature in the cooking syrup. Store covered in the syrup at room tem-
perature.

unslaked lime (Quicklime) g 300 Early harvest Antep pistachio ice cream PR

water No. 1 lt 1.5 Yield: g 700

pumpkin (approx. 30 pieces) g 1000 pure Antep pistachio paste g 250

sugar g 2000 whole milk g 500

water No. 2 g 1200 Put the pistachio paste in a medium size mixing bowl. Add milk slowly and
whisk well. Transfer the mixture in a Paco Jet container. Freeze overnight
lemon juice g 10

cloves ea 3

Put the unslaked lime in a deep container and very carefully add water Assembly pcs 3
No.1 on top slowly (protective goggles are a good idea). Do not breathe Yield: 1 portion
in the steam that rises. Leave “lime water” to rest for 24 hours until the
lime sets and separates from the water. sweetened pumpkin PR
Using a ladle carefully retrieve the “clear” water on top and transfer to a
container. early harvest Antep
Peel the pumpkin and use the firm flesh close to the rind. Cut the pum-
pkin into 3.5 x 2.5 x 1cm pieces. Put the pumpkin pieces into the clear pistachio ice cream PR g 20
lime water. Weigh down with a rack to completely immerse the pumpkin.
Make sure the pumpkin pieces do not stick to each other. Each piece hand crushed sesame
needs to “breathe” in the water.
Put the sugar, water No. 2, lemon juice and cloves in a sauce pan. Mix paste “Sürtme” g5
with a whisk until the sugar dissolves and bring to a light simmer. Remove
the pumpkin pieces from the lime water and wash well under running grape molasses g5
water. Put pumpkin pieces into the simmering (induction 3) sugar syrup,
place a rack on top to make sure the pumpkins are completely immersed. early harvest pistachios, peeled & roasted
During the cooking, remove the pumpkins from the syrup every half hour
and “oxygenate” them for 20 seconds before continuing the cooking pro- Crumble the pistachios. Place the pumpkins on the plate. Arrange 5
cess. Cook the pumpkin for approx 2 hours until they are crunchy on the drops each of the molasses and sesame paste on the plate. Make a line
outside and have a translucent golden brown. of the crumbled pistachios. Place a quenelle of ice cream on top of the
pistachio crumbles.

Mehmet Gürs
Mikla Restaurant, Istanbul, Turchia

www.miklarestaurant.com
photo Brambilla-Serrani

30 2011 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 19

2011 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 19 31

NEWS 1st Chicago Restaurant
Pastry Competition

The Chicago School of Mold Making organizes the 1st Chicago Restaurant Pastry Competition (CRPC) for wor-

king pastry chefs in the Chicago area. The single day competition will take place on October 16 and chefs will

be asked to make 8 plates of an original, creative and innovative plated dessert and 8 servings of a dessert

amuse from a mystery box. The winner will be

the one that presents the most creative and Chef Jimmy MacMillan and Mi-
best tasting desserts among the five finalists, chael Joy, founder of the Chica-
selected among city's top pastry talents by a go School of Mold Making. On
judging panel, that includes chefs Curtis Duffy the left, the classroom where
(Alinea, Avenues), Della Gossett (Charlie Trot- the competition will take place.
ter, French Pastry School) and Jimmy MacMil-

lan (Avenues, JMPUREPASTRY). Gold, silver and bronze prizes will be

presented to the top finishers, including also classes and gift certificates for sili-

cone molds, pastry equipment, Chocovic chocolate, and more.

The competition will be videotaped and broadcast on the web via media partners

Starchefs.com and “Pasticceria Internazionale” and on competition day the doors

will be closed allowing only the competitors, judges and special guests. “Star-

chefs.com and Pasticceria Internazionale will help us broadcast the event, the

desserts, and Chicago’s pastry chefs around the globe – says MacMillan –. I be-

lieve the quality of our pastry scene is world class; we want to share their work at

the competition with the world.”

www.chicagomoldschool.com

Small Temptations

Silikomart is an Italian company established by a sole administrator, Dario
Martellato, that constantly reinforces its status as leader in the market for
silicone moulds for professional use, thanks to the launch of innovative so-
lutions for an increasingly demanding public. Quality, versatility, efficiency
and design make it a creditworthy trademark where culinary art takes
shape stimulating professional creativity.
The new 60x40 cm Mini Pyramid (Vol. 11x77 ml Tot. 847 ml), Mini Cube (Vol. 12x88 ml Tot. 1056 ml)
and Mini Twist (Vol. 12x88 ml Tot. 1056 ml) moulds are an addition to the “sessantaperquaranta”
(60x40cm) collection of the Silikomart Professional division. These moulds are suitable for the making of
sweet and savoury, classic and creative, as well as innovative and traditional mignon and biscuits, and
their size causes a more efficient use of cooking surfaces and a reduction of preparation times. With
their flexible non-stick structure and special gloss finish, these moulds in 100% food grade silicone are
fit for freezing and for cooking, both in fan and microwave ovens. www.silikomart.com

32 SIGEP 2012 HIGHLIGHTS
CONFECTIONERY WORLDWIDE

Sigep, the international exhibition for the artisan
production of gelato, pastry, confectionery and
bakery, will take place at Rimini Fiera in January,
between 21th and 25th January 2012 on a
90,000 m2 area with 750 companies.
The program will include special events and
competitions. The Gelato World Cup will be
back, expanded to 12 nations and dedicated to the theme “Fruits of the Earth and
Sea” (see on page...). The Pastry Queen will be the first female international
championship, with ten lady pastry chefs from the five continents showing their
skills in four tests (cake, plated dessert, sugar sculpture and a surprise test). The
Grand Gala of Pastry will host the winners of the World Cup in Lyon, those of Ri-
mini’s Junior World Cup and the new elected pastry queens with the works that
made them “famous”. The program will also include the national Junior Pastry and
Chocolate Championship, to appoint the members of the Italian team taking part
in 2013 World Championship, and the Italian Senior Championship, to choose
the members of the Italian team taking part in 2013 World Championship in Lyon.
Sigep Giovani, Sigep Bread Cup, 1000 ideas for a new gelato flavour, etc...
will also take place. The exhibition will give space to the new BIOSIGEP area, de-
dicated to companies that have introduced the use of organic products in artisan
confectionery. www.sigep.it

2011 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 19

THE 5TH GELATO WORLD CUP IN SIGEP Expos and events in Italy NEWS

The Gelato World Cup is a biennial event involving gelato The next MACEF AUTUMN, the international home
makers, confectioners and chefs from all over the world. It show, will be held from 8 to 11 September in
represents a unique occasion for professional meetings and Milan, together with the 1st edition of AbitaMi, the
it enjoys a strong media exposure, aimed at giving international decor and design lab. www.macef.it
resonance to the new trends in the artisan gelato world.
Argentina, Australia, Brazil, France, Germany, Japan, Italy, From 15 to 18 September the SHERBETH FESTI-
Morocco, Spain, United States, Switzerland and Turkey are VAL will animate Cefalù, near Palermo.
the 12 countries that will take part in the 5th edition of the competi- www.sherbethfestival.it
tion, which will be held in Italy in Rimini, during Sigep, the internatio-
nal exhibition of artisan gelato, confectionery and bakery, from 21 to 24 January Gelato, confectionery, chocolate, coffee and arti-
2012. Each team will include 5 members: team manager (who will also be a member san food will be on stage at AGRO.GE.PA.CIOK. in
of the international panel of judges), gelato maker, confectioner, ice sculptor and Lecce, in October 8 to 12. www.agrogepaciok.it
chef. During the 4 days each team will be asked to make a decorated table-service
cup, a gelato cake, a decorated sales tub, a gelato cone, an entrée with gastronomic CHOCODAY, the National Cocoa and Chocolate
gelato, and a gelato dessert on the theme “Fruits (gifts) of the Land and Sea”. The Day, is scheduled for 12 October with the aim of
technical panel of judges chaired by Mauro Petrini and the honorary chairman Jean- promoting pure chocolate in Italy and around the
Claude David (the captain of the French team that won the fourth edition in 2010) world, while EUROCHOCOLATE PERUGIA, the in-
will choose the winning team under the watchful eyes of the competition commissio- ternational chocolate exhibition, will take place in
ners, Sergio Dondoli and Sergio Colalucci. The prize giving ceremony will take place Perugia from 14 to 23 October.
on the last day, with the closing Gran Buffet and an exhibition of gelato, chocolate www.eurochocolate.com
and ice sculptures. www.coppamondogelateria.it
Chocolate will be the protagonist also of CIOCCO-
SHOW from 17 to 21 November in Bologna, and
SHOWCOLATE in Naples, 8-11 December.
www.cioccoshow.it - www.showcolate.it

SIA GUEST, the international hospitality exhibition
will be held this year at Rimini Fiera from 26 to 29
November. www.siarimini.com

Longarone will host MIG, the international meeting
for gelato makers, from 27 to 30 November.
www.mostradelgelato.com

800.525.7873(PURE) • www.NielsenMassey.com

CUISINE

A HEALTHY

CONTRAST
Alessandro Boglione is head chef of Al Castello, Castle of Grinzane Cavour, located
in one of the most evocative settings of the Langhe, between Alba and Bra, with a
panoramic view over the surrounding vineyards.

Everything is the contrary of everything: such is Alessandro Bo- the centenary celebrations of the unification of Italy. A quadrilate-
glione. Head chef of the restaurant Al Castello of Grinzane Ca- ral with a high tower, it houses the Enoteca Regionale Piemontese
vour, the conflicting but successful way in which he moves between Cavour, the first in the region, the Museum with memorabilia of
life and work has placed him firmly on the stage of quality Italian Cavour (Camillo Benso di Cavour lived there from 1832 to 1849,
cuisine, obtaining the coveted Michelin star a little more than a year promoting innovations in agriculture and wine-making) and the Mu-
after opening the restaurant. He himself struggles to understand seum of Ethnography. Located in this impressive manor house is
himself: he loves meat but prefers to cook fish; he worked for Boglione's restaurant and adjoining cafeteria. If the latter is the
years in the family bakery but does not eat sweets. This list of con- ideal place for a quick snack, a drink or a coffee complete with
tradictions – interesting, funny, even strange – are the basis of his view over the endless vineyards, the warm and refined atmosphere
knowledge and the strength of his identity. These "contrasts" are of the restaurant is perfect for an unforgettable gastronomic ex-
his hallmark, forging a strong identity. Alessandro is a chef who perience.
knows where he is going and who has turned a passion into his life,
working hard, always humble and respectful of all those who work How would you define your cooking?
and have worked with him. These traits came out during our inter- "Healthy madness" which has its origins in the passion that has al-
view with him in the magnificent mansion that houses the restau- ways accompanied my choices, and that goes back to 1987 when
rant. The Castle of Grinzane is located in one of the most evocative at the end of middle school, I opted for the hotel and catering school.
spots of the Langhe, five kilometres from Alba, and built around Looking back, I can say that I was lucky not to start with the big
the central tower dating to the first half of the eleventh century; it names, but with people who conveyed a certain 'sensitivity' towards
can be admired in all its beauty thanks to the 1960 restoration for their work, and the importance of the human factor.

34 2011 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 19

Your cooking is local yet innovative: how do these two fac- Boglione with his staff.
tors merge?
By finding a balance which is arrived at through various factors: what lips when you wipe them. Ours are made of a flax and cotton mate-
you aim to express, the context in which it is expressed, and the po- rial that give a pleasant feel.
tential customer who interprets it. What is the future of cuisine?
You worked for two years as pastry chef at the Cafe Converso A move towards the simplification of supply and of prices. I am lucky
of Bra: how did this start? to have been the last to arrive in a land with a high concentration of
Pastry is the biggest of challenges. I do not eat sweets, not that I do restaurants managed by big names. Before opening, I looked around
not like them, I just do not eat them because for me everything is analyzing the situation and asked: "This is the market, so how do I
centred on savoury tastes. The project was started by my father, carve out a small slice for myself?" By keeping an eye on prices.
which my brother Federico and I picked up in 1999. We modernised What are your future projects?
and invested lots of energy, with excellent results. I left to follow my To look ahead and continue to grow together with the staff, which is
passion for savoury tastes, although I still collaborate with him. Pa- my added value. Everything that came from the Michelin star on is
stry drives me mad because it is an exact science and I am an “in- all thanks to them.
stinctive bungler”: two aspects that can not live side by side.
To what extent has pastry making influenced your cooking? Monica Onnis
I often make non-sweet sweets, using savoury products in desserts,
sometimes for fun, or just to arouse curiosity in the client. For exam-
ple, I like using our homemade artichoke jam with certain cheeses
or sweets; I also love using saffron. I was already doing this more
than ten years ago, when between '99 and 2000, I presented at the
Salone del Gusto in Turin a line of chocolates with herbs and saffron
with white chocolate.
How do you create your dessert menu?
It is a separate menu with an identity of its own. It is a small list of
offerings that follows the seasons: nature is the driving force behind
our choices. The spring menu, for example, includes a combination
of white chocolate with liquorice mousse and banana cream; a se-
mifreddo of ricotta with charred berries and cocoa bean crunch; two
revisited classical desserts, such as profiteroles with coffee filling
and rosemary glaze; and the lemon zuccotto with almonds and ca-
ramel gelato.
How does a menu materialise?
From everything and anything: it is the instinct that originates from
anything, be it a dinner with friends, a magazine, a trade show, a
moment of solitude.
Is there a method you follow when preparing a menu?
The composition of a dish should never exceed the number of fin-
gers on one hand. It is a hard and fast rule that governs any recipe:
the raw material is accompanied by a maximum of 3 or 4 ingredients
required to enhance it. The moment you realize that a dish is too
"messy", I begin removing until I find simplicity. The more the years
pass, the more this work of removing becomes perfected in the se-
arch for simplicity.
What sweet ingredient do you prefer to work with?
I am crazy about marron glacé.
What about your favourite savoury ingredient?
Meat, or even better poultry, even though I love working with fish
because of its quick cooking.
What essential aspects do you believe are essential at the re-
staurant?
The final coffee, too often neglected, which can ruin a whole meal,
and the napkin, i.e. the fibre and the feeling that this leaves on the

2011 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 19 35

CUISINE Rump in hazelnut crust
baked polenta and steamed spinach

rump g 150
bread crumbs, tablespoons no 4

toasted and chopped no 1
hazelnuts, tablespoon g 50

spinach

maize flour g 100

water as needed

egg whites, flour, starch, seed oil, extra virgin

olive oil, salt and pepper

Cook the polenta flour in boiling salted water, keeping it
medium soft. Bake for 40 minutes, and then pour into a
greased baking pan. When cool cut into cubes and brown
them in the oven or under the grill, making sure they do
not become too dry. Mix flour and starch in one dish. In
another dish mix the chopped hazelnuts and bread
crumbs. Beat the egg whites and continue with the clas-
sic breadcrumb coating, then take the rump and place it in
a little flour and starch, dip it in the egg white and finish
with the breadcrumbs and hazelnuts.
Fry the rump in plenty of hot vegetable oil. Finish in the
oven for 4 minutes at 200°C until medium-rare. Blanch the
spinach in a hot pan with salt and pepper. Place it in the
centre of the plate and arrange the cubes of polenta. Scal-
lop the rump and place it next to the spinach and polenta.
Season with oil, salt and pepper.

Hazelnut mousse with dried oranges

sugar g 600

water g 400

egg whites g 200

hazelnut paste g 350

cream l 1.5

orange l1

caramelized hazelnuts g 100

In an aluminium pan, bring to 121°C 200 g of water and
400 g of sugar, making sure that the flame is not too
high, thus avoiding burning the edge. Separately, whip
the egg whites and drizzle in the sugar syrup until com-
pletely cool, resulting in an Italian meringue. Whip
cream until the mixture begins to rise. Pour into a bowl
and add the hazelnut paste, working with a movement
from the top down, very gently. Finally, add the merin-
gue repeating the same movement as before. Be very
careful not to work the two mixtures for too long, which
would otherwise break them. Place in a plastic contai-
ner and refrigerate.

Dried oranges
Make syrup with 200 g of water and 200 g of sugar. Put
the syrup on the stove until the sugar is completely dis-
solved and allow to cool. Slice an orange in very thin
slices; soak the slices in the syrup, drain and lay them
on Silpat. Dry them at 90°C for about 2 hours.

Assembly
Place a generous tablespoon of mousse gently in the
cups. Add a handful of caramelized hazelnuts and stick
in two or three slices of dried oranges.

36 2011 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 19

Star anise gelato soufflé
almond sponge with candied grapes

Soufflé butter g 50
flour g 90
milk g 250 g 50
cream g 600 starch g8
no 3 yeast
eggs g 100
sugar shot Crumble the almond paste into the cutter with 75 g of sugar, being ca-
star anise no 1 reful not to let it warm up. Melt the butter in a frying pan while maintai-
Sambuca liqueur g 50 ning a low temperature. Beat eggs and egg yolks with an additional 75
almond strips g of sugar. When they are well beaten, add the almond paste gently. Driz-
zle in the butter, stirring gently, add flour, starch and yeast, previously sif-
black grapes, caramel sugar ted, and stir from bottom to top. Place in a plate with edge already lined
with baking paper. Bake for 30 minutes at 180°C with the valve closed.

Make an infusion with 250 g of cream, milk and star anise. Separately mix Assembly
three eggs with sugar without whisking them, and add them to the infu- Cut the cake into strips to create the base for one-portion moulds. Si-
sion. Bake at 73°C and add the shot of Sambuca. Cool, then strain and phon the mixture to fill the mould, then freeze in freezer or chiller. Heat
add 350 g of liquid cream, stirring until creamy and smooth. Pour into a sugar in a pan and let it brown, then remove from heat and sauté the gra-
siphon and load with two charges of gas. Allow to cool completely for pes until evenly covered in caramel; allow to cool. Meanwhile take a
about 1 hour. mould from the freezer, detach it and lay in the centre of the dish. Place
grapes on top and finish with toasted almonds in strips. Wait a few mi-
Almond sponge no 2 nutes before serving.
egg yolks no 3
g 100 Alessandro Boglione
whole eggs g 150
almond paste Al Castello, Grinzane Cavour, Cn
www.castellodigrinzane.it
sugar

2011 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 19 37

NEWS ITALIAN QUALITY CONQUERS
THE US PROFESSIONAL MARKET

In keeping with its international vocation, the Agostoni family, who have been at the
helm of Icam since 1946, has now landed in the USA. They have gone one step fur-
ther by promoting, through the Icam business, not just the outstanding quality of pro-
ducts, but also the value of chocolate culture. The company from Lecco boasts a long
history of processing cocoa and making chocolate with the highest quality standards,
to guarantee products that are much admired by professionals the world over.
Control over the entire production chain – from the selection of the cocoa plantations
in the countries of origin right through to the customisation of products for the profes-
sional market – allows Icam to offer a guarantee of quality, which ensures transpa-
rency throughout all stages of the production process, as well as complete
traceability, in order respond to the requirements of an increasingly demanding, com-
petitive market.
Icam has been able to obtain rewarding results both in Italy and abroad and this suc-
cess has opened the door to new business opportunities. In particular, the growth that
has taken place over recent years has led to the set-up of Agostoni Chocolate North
America Inc, headquartered in Los Angeles and created in order to support the ex-
panding US market with a dedicate sales service, as well as the private label, food
service and renowned semi-finished products distributed throughout Italy and a num-
ber of other European countries under the Icam Linea Professionale brand.
Agostoni Chocolate is the first step that involves the ownership and the firm, and new
operating branches are set to open soon, with particular attention being paid to the
English-speaking world and other markets with major potential for development, such
as Russia and other European countries. www.icam.it - www.icamprofessionale.it

TRENDY FANTASY Fruit passion

Petits gâteaux are small inviting desserts, which can be pro- Coconut biscuit
duced by pastry chefs and gelato makers wishing to keep
abreast of the times. Elenka offers a wide range of specific eggs g 500
products for the making of such desserts, verrines, and also sugar g 200
semifreddos and gelato cakes including layers of sponge bi- almonds g 200
scuit, short pastry or puff pastry. Nine classical Italian tastes
are available: chocolate, vanilla, hazelnut, coffee, zabaione, flour g 100
zuppa inglese, panna cotta, almond and strawberry. coconut paste g 50
Moreover, Milka Speedy and Ciocco Speedy of the Top Mousse line are parti- grated coconut
cularly suitable for the quick making of mousses. www.Elenka.eu
Whisk eggs and sugar in a mixing bowl. Add the coconut paste
and the sieved flours. Cover a tray with Silpat and spread the mix-
ture on it using a spatula. Sprinkle with grated coconut and bake
at 220°C for 6-8 minutes.

Strawberry semifreddo

fresh cream g 500

milk g 125

Prontocrema g 75

Base 786 g 50

strawberry paste g 75

Whisk all the ingredients in a mixing bowl and, when the mixture
is foamy, turn off the machine.

Orange semifreddo

fresh cream g 500

milk g 125
Base 786 g 50
Prontocrema g 75
orange aroma g 30

Use the same method as for the strawberry semifreddo.

38 Assembly
Cover the surface of a semispheric mould with the strawberry se-
mifreddo. Insert a smaller mould in order to shape the thickness
of the dessert and freeze. Pour some water in the inner mould,
then throw it away and remove the semifreddo from the mould,
making in twirl. Fill half of it with orange semifreddo, and put a
layer of coconut biscuit. Smooth, add Fanta Fragola and finish
with some strawberry semifreddo. Smooth and put a layer of co-
conut biscuit. Freeze, remove and spread with Gelatin Glasse.
Decorate with sugar rings, strawberries, grated coconut and pie-
ces of chocolate.

2011 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 19

w w w.icamprofessionale.it

Italian down to the last drop.

Every last drop of Icam chocolate
contains something truly inimitable
and unique: a passion for taste and
creativity that’s Italian through and

through. Sixty years of experience
in the world of chocolate, carefully
selected raw materials, full control
throughout the farming and
production chain and the use of the
most advanced technology currently
available: this is what makes Icam the
last word in quality Italian chocolate.
Icam Linea Professionale is here to
help you turn this quality chocolate into
exquisitely tasty creations that are Italian
right down to the last drop.

ICAM LINEA PROFESSIONALE. YOUR INSPIRATION, OUR PASSION.

NEWS

CUTTING BOARDS WITH
ANTIBACTERIAL
DISPOSABLE FILMS

Strapper, the first cutting board with an antibacterial
disposable film, was created by Piero Guglielmi, an
expert in working polyethylene for alimentary use.
Traditional cutting boards must be often changed in
conformity with strict hygienic standards, and Gu-
glielmi studied together with the chef Stefano Doni-
gaglia this special multi coloured and multi shaped
cutting board for food use. Its manufacturing process
makes it compact, strong and easily washable, and it
is equipped with a 2 mm special replaceable adhe-
sive film on the surface, which can be easily removed
when worn out (see pictures), while the base can be
used many more times. www.strapper.it

Micron ball refiner

The Selmi company, established in 1965, started its activity as hazelnut paste processing

company and afterwards focused on chocolate processing, thus becoming a

specialist in the manufacturing of tempering and covering machines.

The company boasts unique features, such as the constant striving for te-

chnological improvements combined with the structural simplicity of its ma-

chines, thus guaranteeing fewer maintenance sessions and excellent

service, which includes the machines testing at the customer’s plant.

Conceiving and design, manufacturing and sale, direct shipment and as-

sistance for the customers are therefore essential steps of the produc-

tion procedure.

Micron is a ball refiner that can be used to produce hazelnut paste, sprea-

dable creams, pralinated products, cream sweets and all flavoured anhydrous

pastes. The machine

is equipped with a CIOCOFANTASY in Cornigliano
refrigerator with the
purpose of regula-

ting, within the set li- The Pro Loco of Cornigliano, near

mits, the excess heat Genoa, is organising the Ciocofantasy

caused by the friction genera- Horror Show, with a helping hand from

ted between the spheres, thus pre- the chocolate maker Antonio Le Rose,

serving the organoleptic qualities of the product. owner of Il Tempio del Cioccolato in

The circulation of the product during refinement is maintai- Genoa, under the artistic direction of

ned by a dual purpose volumetric pump. The refining cylin- Massimo Santimone. The chocolate fe-

der (20 kg capacity, 10 kg/hour) is also regulated to stival, which will be held at Palazzo

maintain a warm temperature and to prevent the fatty resi- Bombrini on 22 and 23 October, draws

dues between the balls from solidifying during pauses in its inspiration from well-known horror

the working cycle. Power consumption is 4kW three personalities, from Dracula to Franken-

phase 380V, 5 poles, 16A. The machine needs to be con- stein, "sweetened" for the occasion.

nected to a compressed air supply. www.pasticceriainternazionale.it

www.selmi-group.it www.prolococornigliano.it

40 2011 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 19

My world has changed.

My new multifunction helper: Multi Fresh®, Irinox.

Multi Fresh®, a new way of working T. +39 0438 5844 - www.irinox.com
which goes beyond blast chilling.

Specifically designed to meet the requirements of confectioners, Multi Fresh®
offers multiple cycles to better manage their work, ensuring higher profits
and improved organisation. Dedicated cycles by product type and controlled
thawing and proving cycles make Multi Fresh® a flexible, irreplaceable kitchen
tool! IRINOX. THE FUTURE OF CONFECTIONERY STARTS HERE.

Official supplier of Tested and recomanded by

GAMBERO ROSSO

THE INTELLIGENT CUTTING BOARD

Strapper is a cutting board for alimentary use,
composed by a polyethylene board and a special adesive film,

that, once used and at risk for bacteria attack,
is easily removable and changeable.

www.strapper.it piero guglielmi

Via Brignani, 14/3 - 48022 Lugo (Ra) - Italy Made
Phone +39 0545/30498 - Fax +39 0545/369327 - [email protected] in Italy