Tailoring

How to Sew a Set-in Sleeve with Easestitching

1) Easestitch around sleeve cap 2) Draw up bobbin thread, 3) Pin sleeve into armhole,
as described, opposite. Loosen matching markings and raw edges.
tension; stitch on right side of estimating amount of ease. Adjust Ease underarm section slightlv.
sleeve 10 stitches per inch (2.5 cm).
ease in sleeve cap as described, When pinning around cap, hold
opposite. To test sleeve shape, cup
fingers under sleeve cap. garment over fingers so sleeve

turns back; adjust ease.

4) Hand-baste on the seamline, 5) Wrap easestitching threads 6) Stitch sleeve, garment side up.
using small stitches. Try on with Start at notch; stitch underarm,
shoulder pads in place; adjust set around pin. If sleeve cap puckers, around cap, and back to beginning
and hang of sleeve (page 52). remove sleeve. Shrink out ease over notch. Stitch a second row Vs"
tailor's ham, holding iron just above
fabric; steam. Allow to dry. Repeat (3 mm) from first in underarm
steps 3 and 4.
seam allowance between notches.

7) Check sleeve on outside for smooth, pucker- free • ..»*»-»*
stitching; adjust if necessarv. Remove hand basting
on inside and any machine basting that shows on the 8) Press the sleeve cap seam allowance only, up to

outside. Trim the underarm to 'A" (6 mm) between Vs" (3 mm) bevond seamline into cap to prevent a

notches. Trim the remainder to V2" (1.3 cm). flattened sleeve cap. Do not press underarm curve.

97

How to Sew a Set-in Sleeve with Bias Strip

1) Cut two 2" x 12" (5 x 30.5 cm) true bias strips of 2) Insert needle at pin, and stitch bias strip to cap
lambswool. Snip-mark center of each strip. Use one V2" (1.3 cm) from raw edge. Fully stretch bias strip
pin to secure bias strip to wrong side at top of sleeve while stitching from top of cap to small dot. At same
cap, with raw edges matching. time, ease fabric, gendy pushing it under presser foot.
At dot, stop easing fabric but continue stretching bias
strip. End stitching at notch.

3) Repeat on other half of sleeve. If machine does not 4) Pin sleeve into garment. If sleeve is larger than
armhole, distribute ease and pin liberally. If sleeve
have marked stitching gauge to left of needle, mark is smaller than armhole, snip every sixth stitch and
V2" (1.3 cm) gauge with tape on bed of machine. Trim release fullness. Stitch and press sleeves, steps 6
to 8, page 97.
away any excess bias strip below notches.

How to Add a Sleeve Head

1) Cut a 2" x 9" (5 x 23 cm) bias strip of lambswool or 2) Center sleeve head in the sleeve cap, and slipstitch
heavy flannel for each sleeve (a). Fold 5/h" (1.5 cm) from the folded edge to the sleeve seam.

one long edge of head. Or use non woven purchased

sleeve head (b).

98

How to Attach Shoulder Pads (for set-in sleeves)

1) Use standard shoulder pads 2) Attach pad to shoulder seam 3) Smooth garment over pad. Tack
lower edge of pad to armhole seam
(page 26). Pin into garment, with allowance, using loose stitches. Do
pad extending V2" (1.3 cm) beyond allowance, using loose stitches.
seamline. Try on garment; adjust not stitch through all layers of pad.
placement for smooth fit.

How to Attach Shoulder Pads (for dropped shoulders)

1) Use raglan shoulder pads (page 26). Try on the 2) Attach pad to shoulder seam allowance, using loose
garment. Position pad so sleeve hangs straight from
shoulder. Pin pad in place. stitches. Do not stitch through all layers of pad.

How to Attach Shoulder Pads (for raglan sleeves)

1) Use raglan shoulder pads (page 26). Try on the 2) Tack pad to raglan sleeve stay (page 57), or tack to
garment. Position pad so sleeve hangs straight from shoulder seam or dart.
shoulder. Pin pad in place.
99

Tailored Hems interfacing strips V2" (1.3 cm) wider than the hem

Hems in the sleeves and lower edges of tailored Wallowance and the length of each section of the hem

garments are interfaced with strips of interfacing between seam allowances. Allow (6 mm) extra on
to add body and to support the weight of the hem.
Interfacing also adds strength and prevents stretching each strip that overlaps the front interfacing. Pink
one long edge of the interfacing strips.
in hem edges, which are subject to wear. When hems
Try on the garment to determine the finished length
are interfaced, hemming stitches and the edge of the of the sleeves and of the garment. The finished sleeve
hem do not show through to the right side. If using
should cover the wristbone by V2" to 1" (1.3 to 2.5 cm).
woven or weft-insertion fusible interfacing or hair
canvas interfacing, cut strips on the true bias. If using Pin hems, and trim to an even width. In buttoned
fusible knit or nonwoven fusible interfacing, cut strips styles the underlap side should be slightly shorter
so the crosswise stretch goes around the body. than the overlap.

For the custom method, interfacing in tailored hems For a thin and crisp finished edge, miter the corner
extends V2" (1.3 cm) beyond the hemline into the hem in the overlaps of sleeve and back vents to reduce the

allowance to cushion the edge for a softer fold. Cut hair layers. The sleeves can be mitered and hemmed before

Wcanvas strips the width of the hem allowance plus 1 they are set into the armhole if the correct length was
determined in a test garment. If not, set the sleeves
(3.8 cm). Piece the strips to fit the circumference of the
in first, check the length, and then hem using the
hem plus 1" (2.5 cm) for overlap at front interfacing.
mitering technique (page 103).
WFor the fusible method, interfacing extends (1.3 cm)

beyond the hemline into the garment. Cut fusible

How to Hem a Jacket or Coat (custom method)

W1) Press a light crease at hem fold. Turn up (3 mm) 2) Easestitch 14" (6 mm) from hem edge. To remove

extra in front facing, tapering to the front seam so slight fullness, draw up stitching and adjust ease so

facing edge will not show from the outside when hem edge lies loosely against garment. Tuck paper
strips under hem allowance; steam hem edge lightly
hemmed. Trim seams.
to shrink out fullness.

3) Place a pin in the hem allowance 1" (2.5 cm) W4) Trim facing hem allowance (1.3 cm) below
Whemline. Trim garment (2 cm) below hemline
inside the raw edge of the front facing.
from facing seamline to pin in hem allowance. Clip
100
and press seam toward facing in hem allowance.

W5) Cut hair canvas strips, opposite. Pin in place, with 6) Turn back upper edge of strip lA" (6 mm), and
(1.3 cm) extending past hemline. Catchstitch to stitch to garment with invisible tailor's hemstitch.
front interfacing. Use permanent uneven basting Use matching thread, and do not pull stitches tight.
stitches in hemline and temporary basting V2" Remove basting at upper edge of strip.
(1.3 cm) from upper raw edge of strips to secure
strip to garment.

7) Turn hem up, and press. Use clapper to flatten 8) Turn facing to inside of garment. Attach raw edge

facing hem. Baste V2" (1.3 cm) from hemline. Attach of facing to garment hem allowance with fellstitches.

raw edge of hem to interfacing with permanent For fabrics that ravel, apply liquid fray preventer.

uneven basting.

How to Hem a Jacket or Coat (fusible method)

1) Prepare hem as in step 1, opposite. Fuse interfacing 2) Complete hemming preparations as in steps 2 to
strips (opposite) to hem allowance, with pinked edge 4, opposite. Turn hem up, and press; pink raw edges.
Baste hem to garment V2" (1.3 cm) below edge. Use
extending into garment V2" (1.3 cm) past hemline.
Fuse ends under seam allowances. tailor's hemstitch, catching only a thread of garment

in stitches. Complete hem as in step 8, above.

101

How to Miter and Hem a Back Vent

1) Reinforce vent corner on right back, using short 2) Interface vent. If using bias hair canvas (a), cut 1"

stitches just inside seamline. Stitch center back seam; (2.5 cm) wider and longer than overlap; extend Vz"
(1.3 cm) past upper edge of vent and foldlines of vent
clip right back seam allowance to dot. Press overlap and hem. Secure with permanent uneven basting.
Interface hem, step 5, page 101. If using fusible
toward left back, creasing foldline. Press under seam interfacing (b), cut Vz" (1.3 cm) wider and 1" (2.5 cm)
longer than overlap. Fuse to vent self-facing; extend
Wallowance on underlap. Press a light crease at hemline, V2" (1.3 cm) past upper edge of vent and foldlines of
with underlap (3 mm) shorter than overlap. vent and hem. Interface hem, step 1, page 101.

3) Arrange the vent in wearing 4) Clip overlap and hem allowance 5) Open out corner. Mark stitching
position. Turn up, pin, and press
where edges meet. line from clips, marking through
hem as creased in step 1, above. corner where pressed lines meet.

6) Fold on diagonal, with right 7) Fold underlap hem to outside. 8) Baste vent in wearing position.
sides together and clips matching. Machine-stitch across upper edge
Stitch on marked line; trim. Press Stitch on seamline from fold to of vent through all layers; grade
seam open. Turn right side out. seam. Catchstitch vent edges.
hem edge; grade. Press seam open. Stitch hem.

Turn right side out, and press.

102

How to Miter and Hem a Sleeve Vent

1) Stitch upper sleeve to under 2) Fold vent overlap to inside; turn 3) Stitch seam with vent; clip the
sleeve; leave seam with vent open. underlap seam allowance to dot.
Press foldlines of vent and hem. up hem allowance. Complete as for Press seam open. Catchstitch upper
Cut and apply hair canvas (a) or edge and sides of vent. Sew buttons
back vent, steps 4 to 6, opposite. on the right side of overlap at the
fusible (b) interfacing (page 101); Hand-stitch hem.
pattern markings.
do not extend hair canvas into

vent underlap.

How to Prepare a Garment for Lining

1) Turn facing back and anchor to tape at roll line, 2) Catchstitch outer edges of facing to interfacing
using small invisible stitches. If bound buttonholes unless lining is to be attached by machine. Press
are used, finish backs, step 15, page 119. garment, as needed, before applying lining.

103

.

Hir^B^S ^Uihtf
-\ \

\

..-•,

m— . '- - <*

I

Finishing Techniques

*..

Linings

ATailored jackets and coats are usually lined. lining

covers the interfacing layers and other details of
inner construction. It eliminates the need for time-
consuming seam finishes and reduces friction between
the jacket or coat and the garments worn beneath it.

A lining takes most of the wearing strain, lengthening

the life and durability of the finished jacket or coat.
Piping can be added between the lining and the facing

as a special finishing detail.

The custom method for setting in a lining combines

machine-stitching the lining pieces together, then
hand-sewing the lining into the garment.

Setting in the lining by machine is a faster method.
In this method, lining sleeves are machine-stitched
to the garment at the hem. Even when the lining is
set in by machine, the sleeves should be set into the
armhole by hand to anchor the body lining and sleeve
lining to the jacket for better fit and wearability. For
either the custom or machine method, cut the lining
pieces as directed on pages 58 and 59.

How to Attach a Lining (custom method)

1) Staystitch front, neck, and shoulder edges of lining. 2) Baste on center back line, and press pleat toward
Stitch and press all lengthwise seams in body of lining left back. Featherstitch or catchstitch pleat through
and sleeve linings. Stitch back darts if included; press. all layers at neckline, waist, and lower edge for 2" to
Turn under and press seam allowances on lining 3" (5 to 7.5 cm). Remove basting.

front; clip so they lie flat.

L06

3) Baste any tucks or darts at shoulders and waistline; 4) Stitch side seam allowances of lining and garment
press. At shoulders, featherstitch or catchstitch for together with long, loose running stitches. End
2" (5 cm) from raw edge. At waist, featherstitch for stitching 4" ( 10 cm) from lower edge of garment.
2" (5 cm) at center of tuck or dart. Remove basting. Omit this step in coats.

5) Clip back neck seam allowance; turn under and 6) Lap front edges of lining over facing at seamline.
pin to back neckline. Smooth and pin lining around Pin through facing only, beginning and ending 4"
armholes; start at underarm, and work to shoulder
seam. Turn under back shoulder seam allowance, ( 10 cm) above hemline. To ease lining at bustline
and lap over front; pin. Baste back neckline and
curve, place work over tailor's ham while pinning
shoulder seams.
lining to facing. Hand-baste.

7) Hand-stitch lining around armhole a scant 5/s" 8) Try on jacket, and check for smooth fit. If lining
(1.5 cm) from the edge. Loosely hand-stitch lining is too tight, it will pull on jacket, creating wrinkles and
to shoulder pad and sleeve seam allowance. Between
notches, trim underarm of lining to match underarm lines. Release basting as necessary to adjust lining,

of garment. and baste again. Slipstitch all lining edges in place
with short, invisible stitches. Remove basting.

107

How to Set In a Sleeve Lining

1) Easestitch lining sleeve cap 2) Slip lining into garment sleeve, 3) Draw up threads to ease lining
wrong sides together. Turn under
between notches %" ( 1 cm) and a to fit sleeve; turn under lining edges.
A" (6 mm) at underarm between Pin. Fellstitch sleeve lining to armhole
scant 5/s" (1.5 cm) from raw edge. lining, using two strands of waxed
notches, and pin to seamline. Turn
under seam allowance at top of cap, thread. Do not catch garment in
and pin to armhole seamline.
the stitching.

How to Hem a Jacket or Sleeve Lining

1) Pin lining to garment 3" (7.5 cm) 2) Allow lining hem to drop down, Alternative method. Hem lining
above hem. Trim lining so it is 5/s" forming jump pleat for wearing ease
1" (2.5 cm) shorter than finished
W(1.5 cm) longer than finished jacket. at lower edge of jacket or sleeve. garment. Slipstitch front edge of
Slipstitch front edge of lining to lining to facing at lower edge. At
Fold lining edge under (1.5 cm). facing at lower edge. Press hem.
Pin folded edge of lining so it just seams, use swing tacks, taking three

covers hem edge. Slipstitch; or four stitches 2" (5 cm) long and

remove pins. covering with blanket stitches as for
bar tack, page 44.

108

.

How to Attach a Lining (machine method)

1) Stitch and press all seams in lining body. Easestitch 2) Clip lining at neckline; machine-stitch lining to
lining sleeve cap between notches Vs" (1 cm) and a
scant ¥s" (1.5 cm) from raw edge. Follow steps 2 and 3, front and back neck facing. Begin and end stitching
pages 106 and 107, for back pleat and tucks or darts. 4" (10 cm) above hemline. Press seam toward lining.

'

3) Attach lining side seams to 4) Join lower edge of lining sleeve 5) Turn garment right side out, and
garment seams from inside, using to lower edge of garment sleeve,
pull sleeve lining into sleeve. Set in
loose running stitches; end stitching mm)right sides together, with lA" (6
4" (10 cm) from lower edge. Stitch sleeve lining, steps 2 and 3, opposite.
seam. Use free arm of machine, if Stitch in the ditch at lower edge of
lining at armholes, step 7, page 107. sleeve seams; end stitching at lining.
it is available.
Hem garment, opposite.

109

How to Attach a Lining with a Back Vent

1) Construct lining, steps 1 to 3, 2) Press under seam allowance in 3) Hem lining, forming jump pleat,

Onpages 106 to 107. cutting lines, left vent; press under SA" (2 cm) and slipstitch vent lining edges to
vent as for front lining, steps 1 and
cut away left back vent in lining. on right vent. Attach lining, steps 2, page 108.

Reinforce corner in left vent, using 4 to 7, page 107. Pin lining to vents,
ending 4" (10 cm) from lower edge.
short stitches; clip to stitching.

How to Make and Insert Piping in Lining

1) Cut PA" (4.5 cm) bias strips of lining the length 2) Pin piping to right side of facing, with end of piping
at finished edge ofjacket. Machine-baste on stitching
of front facings and back neck facing, if included, line, starting and ending as close to the top edge of
plus 3" (7.5 cm). Fold strip around Vsz" cording or
yarn. While stretching cording, stitch close to cording, the hem as possible.

using zipper foot.

3) Machine-stitch facing to lining, with right sides 4) Garment without back neck facing. Pin lining to
armholes and back neckline. Turn under back shoulder
together and facing side up; crowd cording. Hem seam allowance, and lap over front; baste. Slipstitch
neckline and shoulder seams.
lining. Turn end of piping under to match length
of lining; slipstitch lining and piping in place. Press
seam allowances toward lining.

110

Interlining a Jacket or Coat Since jacket and coat patterns generally do not allow

In colder climates, it may be desirable to purchase an for interlinings, it is important to adjust the fit of the

insulated lining fabric (page 25) or to include an extra garment to allow extra room and fitting ease. This is
layer of fabric in the lining for an outerwear jacket or
coat. Because the extra layer lies between the lining an important consideration in fitted styles, because the
and the garment, it is called an interlining.
extra layer of fabric will use up some of the wearing
For the interlining, choose a lightweight fabric with and design ease. For this reason, do not interline

insulating qualities, such as outing flannel, pajama the sleeves unless the interlining is thin or the sleeve

flannel, or lambswool. The napped surface of flannel has a full cut. When interlining a coat, the interlining
and the open weave of lambswool trap air. The lining is trimmed from seam and hem allowances to

pattern pieces can be used for cutting the interlining. eliminate bulk.

How to Interline a Jacket or Coat

1) Cut interlining, using lining front 2) Stitch center back seam and 3) Complete center back pleat in
and back pattern pieces. Fold under darts in interlining. Or eliminate lining, as in step 2, page 106. Stitch
center back ease pleat on pattern center back seam for straight styles
piece; transfer markings. by placing seamline on fold when darts in lining.

cutting fabric.

4) Smooth and pin interlining to 5) Stitch seams; trim interlining 6) Trim interlining to hemline;
close to stitching. Press seams baste. Machine-stitch lining hem;
Wlining pieces; machine-baste open. Attach lining to garment
(pages 106 to 109). Press hemline. remove basting. Finish hem as for
(1.3 cm) from raw edges, with
alternative method on page 108.
lining side up to prevent slippage.

Ill

'^"<BHK £-r,

Partially Lined Jackets _*§?

A partially lined jacket is cooler to wear than a fully A Hong Kong seam finish is a quality finish in a

lined one. Cut the partial lining as on page 59, using tailored garment, but it is more time-consuming than
lining fabric for the shaped back piece and extending
the front facing to the side seams. Finish exposed seams other seam finishes. An edgestitched seam finish can
be stitched on any straight-stitch sewing machine. An
and facing and hem edges in unlined or partially
overlocked seam finish sewn on a serger is the least
lined jackets to prevent raveling. Allow 1" (2.5 cm) bulky alternative. If fitting changes are made in a test
seam allowances when cutting the jacket to make garment before the garment is cut, finish garment seam
seams easier to handle when finishing. Choose a allowances before stitching the seams because it is
easier to handle single layers of fabric.
finish appropriate to the weight of the fabric.

Three Ways to Finish Seams

Edgestitched. Stitch '/T (6 mm) from raw edge for S#NC

light to mediumweight fabrics. Turn under edge on Overlocked. Overlook single seam allowances on
serger. Use decorative thread, such as shiny rayon,
stitching line. Kdgestitch close to fold. for special edge finish.

12

How to Attach a Partial Lining

1) Staystitch neck and shoulder edges of back lining; 2) Finish seam on inner edge of front facing,
trimming raw edge of facing as needed. (Finished
W Wstitch (6 mm) from lower edge. Press a (6 mm) edges of front facing and back lining should meet.)
Machine-stitch side seam of front facing and lining
hem on lower edge, turning under twice; topstitch. back, right sides together; press seam toward back.

3) Clip neckline so it lies flat; turn under seam 4) Stitch side seam allowances of lining and garment
allowances on shoulder seams and back neckline. together, using long, loose running stitches. Slipstitch
Pin lining at neckline, shoulders, and armholes.
Slipstitch neckline and shoulders; baste armholes. lower edge of facing at hemline. Attach and hem

lining sleeves as on page 108.

Hong Kong. 1) Stitch 1" (2.5 cm) bias strip to seam 2) Wrap bias tape around raw edge to the underside;

allowance l/s" (3 mm) from raw edge, stretching tape stitch in the ditch of the seam. Trim excess tape '/•»"

slightly. Press binding over raw edge as shown. (6 mm) from stitching.

113

2) Pivot, and stitch in ditch of seam (arrow). Shorten
stitches in ditch to make them less noticeable. Pivot,
and continue to topstitch around collar and remaining
lapel. End at lower end of other roll line.

Topstitching

Topstitching is a decorative detail that also holds the skipped stitches, be sure to use a special topstitching

collar and facing flat. This stitching should be done needle or a size 16 ( 100) regular machine needle when

before buttons are attached. Topstitching placed sewing with heavier thread. When buttonhole twist

V4" (6 mm) from the finished outer edge is standard is not available in the appropriate color, thread one
machine needle with two spools of all-purpose thread.
on blazers and sport coats, but several rows may be Test the stitch length, the thread, and the distance
from the edge, using a sample from the same fabric
Onused. thick coating fabrics, stitching farther from and interfacing layers as those in the garment.

the finished edge is also appropriate. Press the garment, using a clapper on the edges to be

Edgestitching placed close to the outer edges of the topstitched to flatten them as much as possible before
garment is especially attractive on hard-surfaced
fabrics, such as linen and wool gabardine. If topstitching topstitching. To keep the stitching straight and even,
or edgestitching is used on the outer edges, it is often use the needle plate guide or the edge of the presser
repeated on pockets or other areas. foot, or mark stitching lines with transparent tape.

Use a heavier thread, such as buttonhole twist, to make When topstitching, stitch slowly; even the tiniest
stitching more apparent. Try lengthening the stitch
for greater stitch definition. To prevent fraying and stitch variation will show.

3) Topstitch remainder of front edge with right side 4) Pull threads to facing side. Thread the ends into
of garment up. Begin at lower end of roll line, and needle, and bury between garment and facing layers.
stitch to lower edge ofjacket. Pivot at end of facing;
115
stitch to edge.

Buttons 8c Buttonholes

Beautiful buttons and expertly sewn buttonholes are In custom tailoring, make bound buttonholes in the
the finishing touches on a finely tailored jacket or coat.
Use covered snaps on inside areas that will show when garment front before attaching hair canvas interfacing.
the garment is worn open.
If using the fusible method of tailoring, make bound
Buttons on tailored garments must have a shank buttonholes after applying the interfacing. Make
that lifts the button away from the thickness of the
garment layer to prevent buttonhole strain. Make a machine-worked buttonholes after the garment is
thread shank for a sew-through button as it is stitched completed.

Ato the garment. shank is not necessary if the button Standards of Bound Buttonholes

is purely decorative such as inner, nonfunctioning ngth of buttonhole is at least 1" (2.5 cm); length
buttons on a double-breasted closure. accommodates button comfortably.

Bound buttonholes and machine-worked buttonholes Buttonholes are all uniform in length.
are interchangeable on tailored jackets and coats.
Bound buttonholes take time to perfect. Make several Width of buttonhole is a scant V-i" (6 mm).
test samples to check the finished length; and before
attempting bound buttonholes on the garment front, Placement is Vb" (3 mm) beyond the center front line,

master the technique in the fabric you are using. toward the front edge of the garment.

Spacing between buttonholes is even.

>Ht—- «. %_

^-.

'.' "** X

•'

%

>;>

XX

W v»->*k

-*» .'-v

. ' *,

How to Prepare the Garment Front for Bound Buttonholes

1) Determine buttonhole length. 2) Mark center and ends of 3) Pink a small oval patch of

Add the button diameter plus each buttonhole with basting in lightweight fusible interfacing
contrasting thread, creating a
thickness and an extra Vs" to Va" thread ladder on garment front. for custom or machine method.
(For fusible method, apply Fuse to wrong side over each
(3 to 6 mm) for ease. Make a sample interfacing before marking.) buttonhole marking.

buttonhole to test button fit.

How to Make a Bound Buttonhole

1) Cut a 2V2" (6.5 cm) bias square 2) Center and baste the bias square 3) Mark stitching lines on wrong
for each buttonhole. Tug, and steam on right side of garment over the
press to remove all stretch. buttonhole location. side, Vs," (3 mm) on each side of

center line.

4) Stitch on marked lines, using 20 stitches per inch mm)5) Check that stitching lines are '/-»" (6 apart
(2.5 cm). Start and end stitching exactly at buttonhole
markings. Leave 4" (10 cm) thread tails. and end exactly at markings. Tie thread tails, but do

not clip. Remove center basting, and press square flat.

(Continued on next page)

117

How to Make a Bound Buttonhole (continued)

6) Cut across center of square, being careful not to 7) Slash garment between stitching lines. Clip to, but
cut garment. not through, corners. Apply liquid fray preventer to
cut edges; test on scrap first.

8) Press top half of square down against stitching 9) Turn square to wrong side; push triangles at ends
to wrong side. Adjust lips to equal width, filling
line; press bottom half up.
opening; press.

10) Cord buttonhole lips with yarn, if desired, by 11) Tailor-baste lips together. Stitch in the ditch on both
long sides of buttonhole, using a small backstitch. If
placing yarn close to pressed folds. Cording buttonholes buttonholes are corded, do not catch yarn in stitching.
adds strength and stability to lightweight fabrics.

US

12) Turn garment back on itself; stitch through base 13) Trim the thread tails. Trim square, rounding
of triangle at each end of buttonhole, using a short off the corners. Press completed buttonhole on
stitch. Check right side. If necessary, stitch several padded surface.

times to secure triangle.

''^--:'-\.::.:l :^:::i

14) Attach hair canvas for custom or machine method. 15) Finish back of buttonhole after facing is attached.
Pin-mark buttonhole in four corners. Cut rectangle
from hair canvas, and pull square through opening. Baste facing to garment around each buttonhole. Mark
opening with pins; slash. Turn under; slipstitch, tucking
Catchstitch to hair canvas. raw edge of slit under as you sew.

How to Cord a Machine-worked Buttonhole

1) Make machine-worked buttonholes after the 2) Cord with buttonhole twist placed under stitching.
Leave loop at one end and tails at other. After stitching,
garment is completed. Determine buttonhole length tug on tails to hide loop. Thread tails in needle, and
and mark ladder, steps 1 and 2, page 117, using chalk bring to wrong side; secure stitching in bar tack.

or basting. 119



How to Mark the Button Placement for Single-breasted Styles

1) Line up finished front edges, facing sides together. 2) Insert pin in buttonhole opening Vs" (3 mm) from

At lower edge, buttonhole side should be slightly end closest to outer edge. Mark button placement at
longer than side with buttons. Secure with pins. pin, using tailor's tack or chalk. Sew button at mark
(pages 122 and 123).

How to Mark the Button Placement for Double-breasted Styles

1) Lap fronts, with center front lines matching. At 2) Insert pin in buttonhole opening Vs" (3 mm) from

lower edge, overlap should be slightly longer than end closest to outer edge. Carefully lift buttonhole
underlap. Secure with pins. away from pin; mark placement using tailor's tack or
chalk. Sew button at mark (pages 122 and 123).

3) Use pattern to mark location for nonfunctioning 4) Mark buttonhole and button location on inside
button, which should line up with functioning button.
of garment under nonfunctioning button. Stitch

buttonhole, then button. Or fasten with covered

snap (page 123).

121

t\,w\

.

I

How to Attach a Sew-through Button

1) Cut 30" (76 cm) strand of waxed 2) Bring needle up through one 3) Remove toothpick, and lift button
thread. Fold thread in half, and hole in button, and place a toothpick
across button between holes. Take away from fabric so stitches are tight
insert in eye of needle (a). Or use a
three or four stitches through holes, against button. Wind thread around
15" (38 cm) single strand of waxed with stitches parallel to buttonhole
opening. Bring needle and thread stitches several times to form shank.
buttonhole twist (b). Secure thread to right side under button. Secure thread on right side with
with small stitch at button
placement mark. several small stitches close to shank.
Clip thread close to stitches.

122

Attaching a Button with a Shank «

Reinforcing a Button

» * « »• « «,«

;* *." c * • * • * *\-

.

'«? ; • *•>''»*.* - * * « <

*; *' *-.*'* *-*.*:«:*.-*.»,*.•*
£2EJ2£****-»**•**:*««

*'*»* -»3fc1

Secure thread with small stitch at button placement Reinforce buttons on garments that will receive a
mark. Stitch through shank several times, with shank
parallel to buttonhole opening. Secure thread on right Onlot of wear. facing side, position a small, flat two-
side with several small stitches close to shank. Clip
thread close to stitches. hole or four-hole button under the garment button.

How to Cover and Attach a Snap Stitch through both buttons; form a shank under

garment button.

1) Cut two lining circles slightly larger than snap. 2) Secure thread with small stitches. Snap covered
sections together; this will cut fabric and expose ball
Make small running stitches around outer edge. of snap. Apply liquid fray preventer to raw edges.
Place snap face down on circle; draw up stitches.

3) Position ball half of snap on facing side of overlap 4) Rub ball of snap with chalk, and press firmly against
right side of underlap to mark position for socket half.
at desired location. Make several stitches through
holes, using two strands of waxed thread; do not catch Stitch in place as for ball half, step 3, except stitch
through all layers of fabric.
right side of garment in stitches. Secure thread with
123
small stitches close to snap.

j.

Index reinforcing, 123 D
sequence for tailoring, 64
Acetate linings, 24 shank, 122-123 Darning cotton, 31

B Carrier strips, shaping jacket front, 72 Darts, 11
Catchstitching, 42, 44 fit, 49, 51
Back neck facing, 76-78 plaid fabric, 19
Back pleat, 58-59, 106, 111 buttonholes, 119
Back stay, facing to interfacing, 103 pressing and shaping, 40-41
hair canvas interfacing, 70 trimming and grading, 32-33
construction, 75 hems, 101 Design ease, 48
cutting interfacing, 55-56 jacket front, 70, 72 Diagonal design fabrics, 16
fabric, 20 lining back pleat, 106-107 Dobby design in lining fabric, 24
pattern adjustments, 55 neckline seams, 78 Dolman sleeves, 14
sequence for tailoring, 64 stay tape, 70, 72 Double welt pockets, 90-93
shaping jacket back, 74-75 vents, 102-103 Double-breasted styles, 121
Back vent, Double-pointed dart, 41
fit, 49, 51, 53 Chalk for marking, 31 Dropped shoulder styles, 96
Clapper, 35 shoulder pads, 99
lining, 59, 110 Drycleaning, fabric preparation, 60
collar and lapels, 82
mitering and hemming, 102 darts, 40 Ease, wearing and design, 48
Bar tacking, 42, 44 hems, 101
Basting, 42, 45 neckline seam, 78 Easestitching,
straight seams, 39
also see: uneven basting tips for using, 38 hems, 100
removing thread marks, 41 set-in sleeves, 96-97
Beeswax, 42 topstitching, 115
Bemberg® rayon, 24 Clay chalk cakes, 31 sleeve lining, 108
Bent-handled dressmaker's shears, 31 Coats,
Beveling seams, 33 Edge finishes, 112-113
Bias strip for set-in sleeves, 96, 98 see: jackets Edge imprints, 37
Blanket stitch, Collar,
bar tacking, 44 removal of, 41
lining hem, 108 fit, 50-51 Edge tape,
Bound buttonholes, 14
corded, 118 grading, 32-33, 82 see: stay tape
sequence for tailoring, 64 notch, 65
techniques for, 116-119 notched techniques, 14, 76-83 Edgestitched seam finish, 112
Broadcloth for back stay, 20 parts, 65
Buttonhole twist, 115, 122 point, 65 Edgestitching,
preparation techniques, 77-78
Buttonholes, 116-121 pressing, 82 seam finish, 112
bound, 14, 103, 116-119 sequence for tailoring, 64 single welt pocket, 94
corded, 118-119 shawl techniques, 84-85
machine-worked, 119 trimming, 32, 82 topstitching, 115
placement, 117, 121 turn of the cloth adjustment, 79
sequence for tailoring, 64 Collarless garments, 64, 74-75 Embroidery floss, 31
Combination tailoring, 11, 13, 20 speed tailor's tacks, 44-45
Buttons, 11,26, 116 Constructing the jacket, 64
attaching, 122-123 Continuous speed tailor's tacks, 45 Enclosed seams,
placement, 121 Contoured pressing board, 35 grading, 33
collar and lapels, 82, 85 pressing techniques, 38
darts, 40
seams, 38-39, 78 Fabric,
Corded buttonholes, 118-119 characteristics, 16-17
Cotton or linen tape, 27
Creaser, pointer, 35 for press cloths, 35
Curved seam, lining, 24-25
pressing techniques, 39 pocketing, 27
trimming and grading, 32-33 preparation, 60-61
Custom tailoring, 11-12 preshrinking, 60
bound buttonholes, 14, 116-119 rolling for padstitching, 43
hems, 100-103
interfacing, 20 selection, 16-17
lining attachment, 106-108
shaping jacket front, 68-71 test garments, 50
shawl collar, 84 underlining, 20-21
tools and stitches, 42-45 Fall of collar, 65-67
undercollar, 65-66 Featherstitching, 42, 44
Cutting surface, 31 lining attachment, 106-107
Cutting tools, 31 Fellstitching, 42, 45
hems, 101
jacket front, 71-72
single welt pocket, 94

sleeve lining, 108
stay tape, 70, 72, 75

Fibers, 17, 60
hair canvas, 20

124

linings, 24 custom tailoring, 12, 65-66, 69-71, shoulder reinforcement, 55, 57, 68,
Finishing techniques, 105-123 70, 72-73
Fit, 48-53 100-103
goat hair, 20 standards of tailoring, 11
forward shoulder thrust, 52 hems, 100-103 tailoring techniques, 64-103
gaping lapel, 53 topstitching, 15, 114-115
hemming, 100 machine tailoring, 13, 67, 72 unlined, 48
lining attachment, 107 pattern adjustments for interfacing, 55 Jacquard weave, lining, 24
pattern adjustments, 54 preshrinking, 60
pin-fitting, 48-49 sequence for tailoring, 64 Jump pleat,
sleeve wrinkles, 52 set-in sleeves, 96
swayback adjustment, 53 shaping jacket front, 69-71 back vent, 110
test garment, 48, 50-53 shawl collar, 84 hem, 108
undercollar shaping, 65-67
Flannel, wool content, 20 Lambswool,
interlining, 25, 111
Ham, tailor's, interlining, 111
outerwear lining, 25 hamsee: tailor's
sleeve head, 98 outerwear lining, 25
Flap pockets, 19, 86, 90, 95 Hand stitching, padding, 20
Float yarns, lining, 24 set-in sleeves, 96, 98
Forward shoulder thrust, also see: padstitching shoulder reinforcement, 55
adjustment for, 52 lining, 107 sleeve head, 27, 98
Fusible interfacing, 20-23
applying, 23 tools and stitches, 42-45 Lapels,
collar interfacing, 76 Hems, 11, 100-103
cutting jacket front, 56 adjustment for gaping, 53
flap pockets, 95 custom tailoring, 100-101 determining roll line, 51
fusible knit, 20-21 fit, 50-51
fit, 48-49, 51 grading, 32-33
grainline direction, 22, 76, 100 fusible tailoring, 101 pin-fitting, 49
interfacing, 55 pressing, 82
hems, 100-101 jacket or sleeve lining, 108 shaping, 68-73
ironing press, 35 trimming, 32, 82
sequence for tailoring, 64 Lining, 11, 106-113
limits of, 21 advantages of, 15, 24, 106
vents, 102-103 attaching, 106-110
nonwoven, 20-21 Hemstitching, tailor's, 42, 45, 101 back vent, 110
pattern adjustments, 55-57 color, 24-25
preshrinking, 22, 60-61 Herringbone fabric, 18-19 combination tailoring, 13
selection tips, 21-22 custom tailoring, 12
sequence for tailoring, 64 Hong Kong seam finish, 112-113 double welt pockets, 93
shawl collar, 84 fabric selection, 24-25
steam shrinking, 60-61 Houndstooth fabric, 18-19
testing, 22 fusible tailoring, 12
undercollar shaping, 65, 67 Insulated lining fabric, 25, 111 interlining, 111
weft-insertion, 20-21 Interfacing, 20-23
woven, 20-21 machine tailoring, 13
Fusible knit interfacing, 20-21 back stays, 55-56 outerwear, 25
collar interfacing, 76 fusible, 21-23
Fusible tailoring, 11-12,20 hems, 55, 100-103 partial linings. 58-59, 112-113
notched collar, 76-83 patch pocket, 86, 88-89
buttonholes, 116-119 pattern adjustments, 55-57 pattern preparation, 58-59
hems, 101-103 preshrinking, 60-61 piping insertion, 110
shaping jacket front, 73 sew-in, 20-21 preparation for, 103
shaping jacket front, 68-73
shaping undercollar, 65, 67 shawl collar, 84 sequence for tailoring, 64
shawl collar, 84 types of, 20-22 weight, 24
Fusible web, lined pockets, 88 vents, 102-103 welt pockets, 91, 93-95
Interliningjacket or coat, 111
Goat hair interfacing, 20 Iron soleplate guard, 23, 35, 39, 61 M
Grading, 32-33 Ironing press, 35
Ironing system, professional, 35 Machine tailoring, 11, 13, 20
collar and lapel seam allowances, 82
Grainline, straightening, 60 Jackets, lining, 109
finishing techniques, 106-123 shaping jacket front, 72
H fitting guidelines, 51
shawl collar, 84
Hair canvas, 11-13,20-21 interfacing fronts, 56 undercollar, 65, 67
buttonholes, 119 Machine-worked buttonholes, 116, 119
characteristics, 20-21 interlining, 111 Marking, tools for, 31
combined tailoring methods, 13 Matched designs, 18-19
lining fabrics, 24-25
lining pocket, 95 Mitering,
matched designs, 18-19 back vent, 100-102
partially lined, 112-113 sleeve vent, 54, 100, 103
sequence for tailoring, 64
shaping back, 74-75 Muslin.
shaping front, 68-73 back stay, 20
test garment, 50

125

1

N Pin-fitting, machine taping, 12-13, 72
padstitching, 43
Napped fabrics, raising, 41 advantages of, 48 shaping jacket front, 68-73
Neck facings, techniques, 49 soft, 73
Pinking shears, 31 steaming, 71, 73
notched collar tailoring, 76-77 test garment, 50-51
trimming and grading, 33 Pins, 31
Neckline seams, Piping, 106, 110 topstitching, 115
tacking seam, 83
trimming and pressing, 78 Placement tips for patterns, 18-19 undercollar shaping, 65-67
Needle holes, removing, 41 Rotary cutter and mat, 31
Needles, Plaids, Ruler, see-through, 31, 43
handwork, 42
padstitching, 43 lining, 25 Satin weaves, lining, 24

topstitching, 115 tailoring with, 16, 18-19 Scissors,
Pleats for lining, 58-59, 106, 111 duck-billed applique, 31
Non woven fusible interfacing, 21 Pockets, 11 tailor's points, 31

Notched collar tailoring, 64 fabric, 27 Seam allowances,
preparing collar and facing, 77-78 flap, 86, 90 adding center back seam allowance, 54
tacking neckline seam, 83 lining, 88-95
techniques, 76-83 patch, 86-89 jacket construction, 64
trimming and pressing, 82 positioning, 19, 51, 87 notching, 33
turn of the cloth, 79 sequence for tailoring, 64 pattern adjustments, 54
upper collar/facing to undercollar/ tailoring techniques, 14, 86-95 trimming and grading, 32-33
garment, 80-81 templates for, 51, 87-88
unlined curved, 87 Seam roll, 35, 39
Notches, 33, 39 welt, 86, 90-95
Notions, 26-27 Point presser, 35 Seams, 11
enclosed seams, 38 beveling, 33
O Pointer and creaser, 35 curved, 39
enclosed, 38
Outerwear lining, 25 Polyester, plaid and striped fabrics, 18-19
Overlocked seam finish, 112 pressing techniques, 36-39
Overpressing, 37 lining, 24 straight, 39
twill tape, 27 trimming and grading, 32-33
correcting pressing errors, 41 Preshrinking, 22, 60-61
Press cloth, 35 See-through ruler, 31
paper strips as protection, 40 Pressing board, contoured, Sequence for jacket tailoring, 64
see: contoured pressing board
Padding, lambswool for, 20 Pressing board, tailor's, 35 Set-in sleeves, 15
Pressing mitt, 35
Padstitching, 11 bias strip, 96, 98
Pressing techniques, easestitching, 96-97
characteristics and techniques, 42-43
collar and lapels, 82 lining, 108
custom tailoring, 12, 65-66, 70
machine tailoring, 13, 67 correcting errors, 41 sequence for tailoring, 64
shaping jacket front, 69-70 shoulder pads, 26, 99
curved seam, 39 Sew-in interfacing, 20-21
undercollar shaping, 65-66 darts, 40-41 cutting jacket front, 56
enclosed seam, 38
Partial linings, 58-59 equipment for, 35 testing, 21
fusible interfacing, 23
attaching, 112-113 neckline seams, 78 Sew-through buttons, 122
Shank buttons, 116, 122-123
sequence for tailoring, 64 overpressing, 37, 41 Shawl collar, 14, 84-85

Patch pockets, 86-89 straight seam, 39 sequence for tailoring, 64

attaching by hand, 89 techniques, 36-41 Shears,
topstitching, 115 bent-handled dressmaker's, 31
attaching by machine, 87-89 underpressing, 37 pinking, 31
Professional ironing system, 35
lining fabric, 27 Shine, removing, 41
Raglan sleeve, 14 Shoulder fit, 48, 51-52
positioning, 19, 51, 87 sequence for tailoring, 64 Shoulder pads, 26, 49
shoulder pads, 26, 99
unlined, 87 sia\s for, 55, 57 dropped shoulders, 26, 99
patterns for making, 26
Patterns, Rayon, raglan, 26, 99
blends for linings, 24 sequence for tailoring, 64
adjustments, 54-59 hair canvas, 20 set-in sleeves, 26, 99
Shoulder reinforcement,
fitting techniques, 48-49 Reinforcement, shoulder, cutting interfacing, 55, 57
see: shoulder reinforcement shaping jacket front, 68-70, 72-73
interfacing adjustments, 55-57 Shoulder seam, 74-75
Roll line, sequence for tailoring, 64
interlining, 111
collar and lapel seam allowances, 82 Side seams,
lining, 58-59 pin-fitting, 49
crisp, 73 sequence for tailoring, 64
partial lining, 58-59 custom taping, 12, 71
lapel, 50-51 Silk thread.
plaids and stripes, 18- (
.)

preparation, 34

selection and styles, 14-15

shoulder pads. 26

unlined jackets, 59

Pens, marking, 81
Permanent uneven basting, 42, 71,

100. 102

L26

collar and lapel, 82 Tailor's ham, 35 sequence for tailoring, 64
handwork, 42 curved seams, 39, 82, 85
Single welt pockets, 90, 94 darts, 40-41, 69 tailoring styles, 15
front shaping, 69
Single-breasted stvles, 121 pocket positioning, 87 test garment, 51
Sleeve board, 35 set-in sleeves, 97 Vinegar, removing shine on fabric, 41
shoulder seams, 75
Sleeve head, 27 undercollar shaping, 65-66 Warp knit stay tape, 27
set-in sleeves, 96, 98
technique for, 98 Tailor's hemstitching, 42, 45, 101 W
Tailor's points, 31
Sleeves. 11 Tailor's pressing board, 35 Waxed chalk cakes, 31

adding vents, 54 Tailor's tacks, Wearing ease, 48
adjustment for wrinkles, 52
dolman or raglan stvles, 14 jacket construction, 64 Weft-insertion fusible interfacing, 21
speed tacks, 42, 44-45 collar interfacing, 76
fit, 50-51 hems, 100
Tape, pattern adjustments, 55
interlining. 111 preshrinking, 60
stay tape, 27 Welt pockets. 14, 51, 86, 90-95
lining attachment, 108-109 tailoring methods, 12-13
lining pattern, 59 Wide darts, pressing techniques, 41
Test garments. 50-54 Woven fusible interfacing, 21
pin-fitting, 49 advantages of, 19, 48
sequence for tailoring, 64 Cy DeCosse Incorporated offers a
sleeve head, 27, 96, 98 Thimble, 42 special model Singer serger for sale
stays, 55, 57 Thread, direct to subscribers. For more
tailoring techniques, 96-99
contrasting, 91 information write:
vents, 15, 103
wrinkles, 52 silk, 42, 82 Singer Sewing
Reference Library
Slipstitching, 42, 44 Tools,
Special Serger Offer
buttonholes, 119 cutting and marking, 31
hems, 108 for handwork, 42 5900 Green Oak Drive
lining attachment, 107, 110, 113 Toothpick for button attachment, 122
pockets, 88-89 Minnetonka, MX 55343
Topstitching, 15, 114-115
Snaps, covering and attaching, 123 Tracing wheel, 31
Speed tailor's tacks. 42, 44-45
Stand of collar, 65 Trimming, 32-33
Standards of tailoring, 11 collar and lapels, 82
Stav tape, 27 interlining seams, 111
neckline seams, 78
preshrinking, 60
shaping jacket front, 68, 70-73 scissors, 31
shoulder seams. 74-75
Stays, raglan sleeve. 57 Turn of the cloth, 79

Staystitching, Tweezers, 42. 81
Twill weave for lining. 24
facing. 77. 85
lining attachment, 106 U
shawl collar tailoring, 85
test garments, 50 Undercollar,
Steam iron, 35
Steam pressing, custom shaping, 66
double welts, 92 fused shaping, 67
lapel shaping, 71, 73 machine shaping, 67
undercollar shaping, 66 notched collar tailoring, 78
Steam shrinking, 60-61 pattern adjustment, 54
sequence for tailoring, 64
Stitches, shaping, 65-67
upper collar/facing unit and, 80-81
handwork, 42-45 Underlining, 20-21
Straight seams, pressing techniques, 39 Underpressing, 37
Uneven basting, 42, 45
Stripes, hems, 101
permanent, 42, 45, 71. 101-102
linings, 25 shaping jacket front, 71
unlined jackets, 48, 59
tailoring with, 16, 18-19 unlined patch pockets, 87

Swavback adjustment, 49, 53
Swing tack, lining hem, 108
Svnthetics for linings, 24

Tacking, neckline seam, 83 Vents,
Tailor basting, 42, 45
adding to sleeve, 54
bound buttonholes, 118
double welt pockets, 92 lining, 59, 110

neckline seam, 83 mitering and hemming, 100. 102-103
shaping jacket front, 70

Tailor's chalk, 31

127





fm