Couture Sewing Techniques - Claire Shaeffer

Bibliography

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b i b l i o g r a p h y 245

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Mauck, Frances F. Modern Tailoring for Women. New Yanagi, Amy, ed. Fit and Fabric. Newtown, CT:
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Picken, Mary Brooks. The Language of Fashion. ——. Great Sewn Clothes. Newtown, CT:
New York: Funk & Wagnalls Company, 1939. The Taunton Press, Inc., 1991.

Poulin, Clarence. Tailoring Suits the Professional Way. ——. Jackets, Coats and Suits. Newtown, CT:
Peoria, Ill.: Chas. A. Bennett Co., 1953. The Taunton Press, Inc., 1993.

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Rhodes, Elizabeth A.“Charles Kleibacker.”
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246 b i b l i o g r a p h y

Resources

Tailoring supplies, Wawak G Street Fabrics
interfacings, industrial P.O. Box 8589 5520 Randolph Rd.
irons & pressing tools, Endwell, NY 13762 Rockville, MD 20852
dress forms, threads (800) 654-2235 (301) 231-8998
www.wawak.com www.gstreetfabrics.com
Atlanta Thread
& Supply Co. United Kingdom Lacis
695 Red Oak Rd. MacCulloch & Wallis 2982 Adeline St.
Stockbridge, GA 30281 25–26 Dering St. Berkeley, CA 94703
(800) 847-1001 London W1S 1AT (510) 843-7178
www.atlantathread.com England Lacismuseum.org
(44) 20-7629 0311 Books, needles, tambour hooks,
Banasch’s www.macculloch-wallis.co.uk threads, cotton tulle.
3380 Red Bank Rd.
Cincinnati, OH 45227 Fabrics and Michael’s Fabrics
(800) 543-0355 miscellaneous www.michaelsfabrics.com
www.banaschs.com supplies
Sawyer Brook
B. Black & Sons Apple Annie Distinctive Fabrics
548 S. Los Angeles St. Designer Fabrics P.O. Box 700
Los Angeles, CA 90013 566 Wilbur Ave. Clinton, MA 01510
(800) 433-1546 Swansea, MA 02777 (800) 290-2739
www.bblackandsons.com (866) 675-9844 www.sawyerbrook.com
All supplies except dress forms. www.appleanniefabrics.com
Things Japanese
Greenberg & Hammer Britex 9805 NE 116th St.
535 8th Ave., Rm 6N 146 Geary St. Kirkland, WA 98034
New York, NY 10018 San Francisco, CA 94108 (425) 821-2287
(800) 955-5135 (415) 392-2910 www.silkthings.com
www.gianuzzi.com www.britexfabrics.com Silk threads.
Boning, weights and chain, Cotton tulle, interfacings,
horsehair braid and lambswool, cotton batting.
tracing paper.

247

Index

Note: Bold page numbers indicate a photo, and italicized page numbers indicate an Coats
illustration. (Only one bold or italicized number of a page range indicates at least one Balenciaga, Cristobal, 10
photo or illustration.) Poiret, Paul, 15, 160

A sleeves, 150–53 Collars, 187–90, 206
wool, 208 Concealed placket, 89–90
Abutted seam, 40, 51 Bobergh, Gustof, 12 Conversion chart, 243
Accessories, 19 Bocher, Main, 9 Corded facing, 79
Adrian, Gilbert, 14, 146, 230 See also Mainbocher Corners, 56–57, 80–81
Amies, Hardy, 9, 76 Bodice, fitting, 128–29, 226 Correspondent Members, 8
André, Adeline, 8 Bohan, Marc, 86, 103, 113, 131 Corsets, 13, 224–28
Applied-welt pockets, 168–71 Bolduc, 23 Couching stitch, 232
Appliqué Boning, 137, 223–24, 226 Couture, haute. See Haute couture
Booster, sleeve, 157 Craftsmanship, 11, 17
darts, 59 Bound slit, 88–89 Cross-stitch, 31, 33
lace-on-fabric, 201–3 Boyish look, 13–14 Cuffs
redesign, 212–13 Braced seam, 58
seam, 41, 47, 49–51 Bridal gowns, 236–39 blouses, 152–53
sewing, 229–31 Bust enhancers, 228 jackets, 197, 208
Armani, Giorgio, 8, 17 Buttons pants, 122–23
Armscye bias facing, 79 buttonholes, 36, 91–97, 180 Curves, reverse, 57–58
Assembling garment, 42–43 Chanel-inspired, 99–100 Cutting garment, 42, 209–10
Atelier, 11, 17–18 closures, 91–100
fabric-covered, 11 D
B finishing buttonhole, 94
loops, 97–99 Darts
Backing patch method, 92–93 backed, 59
darts, 59 sewing, 100 balanced, 60
dresses, 62, 126–27, 130 Buttressed seam, 201, 221 converting to ease, 60–61
jackets, 177–78 double-pointed, 59
shaping, 62 C fell stitch, 59
interfacing, 59
Backstitch, 29, 32–33 Callot Sœurs, 13 stitching over, 53
Balenciaga, Cristobal Cap, sleeve, 156
Cappucci, Roberto, 62 De la Renta, Oscar, 8, 17, 140
coat, 10 Cardin, Pierre, 15, 16, 16, 130 Del Castillo, Antonio Canovas, 203
dresses, 15, 77, 141, 213 Carnegie, Hattie, 14 Design
fabric, 9–10, 18 Castillo, 49, 205
Balmain, Pierre, 8, 14 Catchstick, 35 croquis, 17–18
Basting seams, 41–42, 185 Chambre syndicale de la couture ordering, 19, 22
Basting stitches, 28–31 transferring, 235
Beading, 23, 232–34 parisienne, 8, 12 Diagonal stitch, 30–31, 34
Belle Époque, 12, 14 Chanel, Coco Dior, Christian
Belt loops, 123 coat lining, 155
Bias appliqué, 231 fabrication number, 23
appliqué, 230–31 blouse, 24 influence, 5
binding, 44–45, 80, 82 buttons, ornate, 11, 99–100 kick pleat, 120
dresses, 58, 71, 133–35 “Chanelisms,” 194–97 “Mexico” (1953), 17, 220
facing, 78–79 cuffs, 197, 208 “New Look,” 14
neckline sagging, 55 dresses, 14, 107, 207, 214 overcasting, 44
stays, 186 garment number, 23 silk taffeta dress, 11
See also specific type inverted pleats, 119 Double placket, 91
Binding, 44–45, 80, 82–85 jacket, 64 Doucet, Jacques, 13
Blanket stitch, 36 Linton Tweeds, 10 Draping pattern, 42
Blindstitch, 35 pockets, 158 Draw stitch, 33
Blouse hem, 75 suit, 195 Dresses
Blouses Closures Amies, Hardy, 76
appliqué seam, 49 buttons, 91–100 backing, 126–27, 130
Chanel, Coco, 24 hooks and eyes, 104–5 Balenciaga, Cristobal, 77
design, 135–37 snaps, 105 beaded, 238, 239
godets, 134 zippers, 100–104 bias-cut, 133–35
lace, 199 blouse/skirt dress, 132–33
skirt, attaching to, 132–33 Bohan, Marc, 86, 103

248

brocade, 6 Fit, 11 jackets, 173
Cappucci, Roberto, 62 Fitting, 23, 42–43, 116–17 skirts, 109–10
Cardin, Pierre, 16 tops, 125–26
Chanel, Coco, 107, 214 See also specific garment Hooks and eyes, 104–5
Dior, Christian, 5, 11, 220 Fly placket, 90 Horsehair braid hem, 73
fitting, 126, 226 Folds. See Darts House of Chanel. See Chanel, Coco
gown, afternoon, 12 French seam, 40, 51–52 House of Worth. See Worth, Charles
hem, 71
history, 125–26 See also False French seam Frederick
invisible seam, 45
lace, 203 G I
overcasting, 44
prêt-à-porter, 216 Gagelin-Opigez et Cie., 12 I. Magnin Custom Salon, 5, 212
sack dress, 15 Galanos, James, 45 Interfacing
shields, 143 Galante, Maurizio, 8
silk taffeta, 11 Galliano, John, 180 collars, 206
special occasion, 214–39 Garavani, Valentino. See Valentino dress, 62
strapless, 9, 10 “Garçonne” look, 13–14 hem, 72–73
trapeze, 15, 127, 205 Garment, marking, 48–49 jacket, 172, 174–78
underpinnings, 130–31 Gathered seam, 54, 56 sewing darts, 59
Ungaro, Emanuel, 58, 124 Gaultier, Jean Paul, 8 shaping, 62
Vionnet, Madeleine, 15 Gimbel, Sophie, 14 Intersecting seams, 52–53
waistlines, 131–32, 222–24 Givenchy, Hubert de, 8–10, 15–16 Inverted pleats, 115, 117
See also Evening gowns; Wedding Godets, 134
Greenburgh, Gilbert Adrian, 38–39, J
gowns
39 Jackets
E Guest Members, 8 Chanel, Coco, 64, 195
diagram, 175
Eased seam, 53–54, 60–61 H finishing, 188–94
Edelstein, Victor, 213 fitting, 187–88, 190, 193
Edges Hand-rolled hem, 73–74 Greenburgh, Gilbert Adrian, 38
Hand sewing history, 173
finishes, 67–85 lining, 190–94
necklines, 203–4 advantages, 25 Saint Laurent, Yves, 95, 176
shrinking, 65 beading, 234 stretching, 64
taping, 179–80 binding, 44–45 tailoring, 174–94
Embellishment, 23, 228–31 buttonholes, 93–97 Ungaro, Emanuel, 187
See also Trim; specific type ergonomics, 28 Valentino, 176
Embroidery, 231–32, 235 facing, 79 James, Charles, 10, 14, 15
Enclosed seam, 53 hemming, 70
English seam. See French seam overcasting, 44 K
Evening gowns prêt-à-porter vs., 17
Balenciaga, Cristobal, 213 Hanger loops, 123 Kick pleat, 120
brocade, 6 Hash, Anne Valérie, 8 Kleibacker, Charles, 55, 133
Callot Sœurs, 13 Haute couture Knots
James, Charles, 10 Chambre syndicale, 8
Mori, Hanae, 212 collections presented, 17 backstitches, 29
Pacquin, Jeanne, 12–13 construction, 23, 39–41 beginnings, 28
pantaloons, 217 definition, 7, 9–10 figure-8, 29
“Petal” ballgown, 15 history, 8, 12–16 simple, 29
Rucci, Ralph, 16 laying out flat, 23 tailor’s, 28, 29
strapless, 9 members, 8 waste, 29
“Swan” ball gown, 10 mis à plat, 23
Valentina, 19 ordering design, 19, 22 L
prêt-à-porter vs., 20–21
F prices, 9 Lace, 47, 49–50, 199–206
sale of garment, 23 Lachasse, 145
Fabric, 2, 9, 10, 201–3, 210–11, 213 Head, sleeve, 156–57 Lacroix, Christian, 8, 16
Facing, 75–79, 111–13, 180–86 Hemmed slit, 88 Lagerfeld, Karl, 16
False French seam, 45 Hems Lapels, 178–79, 181, 185
Fashion trends, 13, 17, 19 bias faced, 75 Lapped seam, 40–41, 46–47, 200
Fath, Jacques, 14–15 corners, 80–81 Laroche, Guy, 6
Felled hem, 74–75 eveningwear, 218 “La Schiap,” 14
Fell stitch, 33–34, 59 hemming stitch, 35 Lauren, Ralph, 17
Figure-8 knot, 28, 29 lace, 204–5 Left-hand sewers, 29
Finish pants, 122–23 Lining
poufed, 217
binding ends, 85, 209 process, 68–75 jackets, 190–94
buttonholes, 94 seams, 69 quilted, 195–96
hems, 218 skirts, 119–20 shaping, 216–17, 222–24
invisible, 45 special, 218 stays, 194, 222–24
silk binding, 45 See also specific type Linton Tweeds, 10
stay ends, 141, 222 History Louis, Jean, 14
See also Edges dresses, 125–26
haute couture, 8, 12–16 M

Machine sewing, 17, 40
Mainbocher

I N DE X 249

American style, 14 R shaping, 148–50, 154
bias facing, 84 tailored, 153–55
blouse godets, 134 Ready-to-wear, 15, 17, 20–21, 216 types, 145–48
skirt, 108 Reverse corners, 56–57, 58 Slip basting, 31
strapless gown, 9 Reverse curve, 57–58 Slipstitch, 33
zipper, 103 Ribbon seam, 201 Slits, 88–89
Marking garment, 48–49 Rolland, Stéphane, 8 Snaps, 105
Martin, Maison, 8 Rucci, Ralph, 8, 16 Snow, Carmel, 14
Master of the Bias, 55 Ruffles, skewed, 221–22 Sorbier, Franck, 8
Matching seams, 52–53 Running stitch, 32 Stabstitch, 34
Materials, 26–28, 61, 247 Stays, 54–55, 137–42, 140, 194, 222
McCardell, Claire, 14 S Stitches
Measurements, 2, 22–23 fell, 33–34, 59
Metric conversions, 243 Saab, Elie, 8 permanent, 31–37
Mis à plat, 23 Saint Laurent, Yves tailor’s tacks, 48–49
Modernizing design, 13 temporary, 28–31
Mori, Hanae, 212 bias facing, 85 thread tracing, 48–49
buttonhole, 95 See also specific type
N dresses, 15, 127, 132 Stretching, 64, 65
expensive fabric, 9–10 Stripes, 206–10
Narrow hem, 73–75 hemline, 217 Suits, 121, 230, 232
Narrow plain seam, 43, 45 jackets, 172, 176, 181 Supplies, 26–28, 61, 247
Necklines pants, 15, 121
placket, 90 T
bias, 55 pocket, 165, 168, 172
boning, 137 waistband, 111 Taping edges, 179–80
edges, 203–4, 210 Scaasi, Arnold, 18 Thread, 27–29, 235
harnesses, 139–40 Schiaparelli, Elsa, 14 Tools, 26, 61, 247
square, 139 Seams Topstitching, 103–4, 197
stays, 137–39 bias, 85 Trapeze dresses, 15, 127, 205
Needles, 26, 28 eased, 53–54, 60–61 Trim, 11, 23, 197, 238–39
New Look collection, 5 finish, 44–45, 209 Tucks, 234, 236
New York workroom, 18 intricate, 52–58
Norell, Norman, 14, 96 lace, 200–203 U
lapped, 46–52
O plain, 41–46 Underlap extension, 225
staying, 54–55 Underskirts, 219–21
Ordering design, 19, 22, 23 yoke, 202 Ungaro, Emanuel, 16, 58, 124, 187
Overblouses, 136 See also specific type
Overcasting, 44 Selvage, 210–11 V
Overcasting stitch, 35–36 Shaping
Overskirts, 219–21 backing, 62 Valentina
darts, 58–61 evening gown, 19
P interfacing, 62
lining, 216–17, 222–24 Valentino
Pacquin, Jeanne, 12–13 pressing, 61, 64 blouse, 135
Pants, 15, 121–23 seams, 39–58 double placket, 91
Paris, 8, 12, 17 shrinking, 64–65 jacket, 176
Parisian High Fashion Syndicate, 8 stretching, 65
Passage, 23 Shields, dress, 143 Vionnet, Madeleine, 10, 13, 15
Passementerie, 231–32 Shoulder pads, 142–43
Patch pockets, 159–62 Shrinking, 64–65 W
Patou, Jean, 13–14, 16 Simpson, Adele, 216
Patterns, 42, 50, 205–6, 211–12 Sirop, Dominique, 8 Waistbands, 110–13, 140–41
Permanent stitches, 31–37 Sizing, 22, 23, 226 Wedding gowns, 236–39
Pin hem, 74 Skirts Weights, 197–98
Plackets, 88–91, 103–4, 151–52 Bohan, Marc, 113 Whipped seam, 46
Plain hem, 68, 70–72 Chanel, Coco, 119 Whipstitch, 34
Plain seam, 40–46 fitting, 116–17 Worth, Charles Frederick
Pleats, 141–42, 208–9 history, 109–10 buttons, 11
Pockets joining, 113–14 corded facing, 79
Mainbocher, 108 gown, 239
patch, 159–62 pleated, 114–15, 118–20 history of haute couture, 8, 12
set-in, 159, 163–71 underskirts, 219–21 House of Worth, 12, 210
Poiret, Paul, 13, 15, 160 Slash pockets, 166–68 label, 23
Pressing, 61, 63–64 Sleeveless garments, 136–37 neckline, 210
Prêt-à-porter, 15, 17, 20–21, 216 Sleeves
Prices, 9 blouses, 150–53 Y
Prick and pounce method, 235 booster, 157
Prints, 14, 211–12 cap, 156 YSL. See Saint Laurent, Yves
Production book, 19 fit, 147–48
Prototypes, 18, 22 head, 156–57 Z
lining, 155
Q Zippers, 100–104, 163–66

Quilting, 195–96

250

CRAFTS & HOBBIES

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Claire Shaeffer brings one into an haute-couture atelier, where the realm of possibility
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become weightless, a wisp of dimension for the wearer. She pays homage to the gods
of the craft and bows to the church of haute couture.” —Ralph Rucci, designer

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C L A I R E B . S H A E F F E R is an internationally
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for haute couture, expensive ready-to-wear,
and historic designs. She is a long-time designer
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