Draping

DRAPING

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This draping method is from Helen Joseph-Armstrong's text "Draping
for Apparel Design", Fairchild Publications, 2000

Measure Muslin Length

On the form, measure the
length of the muslin from the
shoulder over the bust to the
waist along the selvedge edge.

Add Extra Length
Add about 4" to this
measurement.

Clip through the selvedge

Tear the muslin

Measure the Width
On the form, measure the
front width across the bust
arc along the cross grain
(top edge of the muslin)
from the center front to the
side seam. Add four
inches, clip, and tear as
before.

Draw a grainline on the front piece 1" from
the longest torn edge.

Mark the Bust Level
Measure and mark 4" down from the top.
Put a second mark at the bust level.
Measure the form for this distance.

Draw the Cross grain
Draw a line with the L ruler from the bust point.

Continue muslin preparation
Measure, tear and prepare a piece of muslin for the back.
Measure and mark 2" down from the top edge. Make a
second mark and draw a cross grain line at the shoulder
level.

Fold the front muslin piece along the grainline
you drew and crease with your finger.

Start the Drape
Pin fold to the form, with
the cross grain line at the
bustline. Place your top pin
pointing down, and your
bottom pin pointing up so
the muslin does not slip.
Place crossed pins at the
bustline level.

Pin the Bust Point

Smooth the muslin keeping the cross
grain parallel to the floor and place
crossed pins at the bust point.

Pin the Shoulder

Smooth muslin
upwards from the
breast to the
middle of the
shoulder and pin.

Clip the Shoulder

Smooth the muslin up to the shoulder/
neck intersection. Slash the shoulder
seam about 1" away from the neck.

Trim the Neck

Trim muslin at the neck down to about 1"
from the neck seam.

Clip the Neck

Smooth the muslin upwards and clip
the neckline by placing the point of the
scissors on the neck seam.

Clip the Neck

Then fold the fabric above the seam
into the scissors.

Clip the Neck

Then close the scissors. Be careful not
to let the muslin under the point of the
scissors slip.

Continue clipping the neckline at about 3/4"
intervals. Pin the shoulder at the neck.

Pin the Shoulder Point

Smooth the muslin along the shoulder
from the neck, and pin at the shoulder
point.

Starting at the shoulder tip, smooth the muslin
along the armhole roll line towards the
midshoulder pinhead. The fabric should bridge
the hollow area between the shoulder and
bust.

Trim the
waist

Clip the Waist
Smooth and slash the muslin along the waist
toward the Princess line using the same
clipping technique as at the neck.

Pin the waist at the
princess line

Mark the waist at this location Front
for the dart Markings

Mark the
following:
•bust point
•3/8" below
CF neck
•mid-
neckline
curve
•shoulder/
neck
intersection
•shoulder tip
•mid-
armhole
mark
•CF at
bottom of
waist tape

Pin Ease tuck at Arm eye Smooth the muslin around the armhole and
pin just past the side seam
Lift the muslin at the arm eye.
Direct a 1/4" ease tuck toward
the bust and pin. Cut away
excess fabric at the arm eye.

Pin the Bottom of the Side seam Pencil rub the side seam

Place a pin at the bottom of the
armhole plate. Smooth the muslin
down along the side seam to the
bottom of the waist tape and pin.

Remove pin from the ease tuck at Mark the top of the side seam
the arm eye.
At the bottom of the armhole plate,
draw a short curved line. Draw a line
down to the pinhead marking the
armhole depth. Draw a second
horizontal line here.

Measure the Side seam Ease

Measure 1/2" for side seam ease.

Draw the side
seam with a
ruler,
connecting
to the bottom
of the side
seam at the
waist. There
is no ease at
the waist.

Mark the bottom of the side Slash along the waist from the
seam. sides seam to the princess line

Pin a 1/4" ease tuck at waist Mark the Waist dart

Fold the dart excess towards the
center-front. If this excess overlaps the
centerline, trim it to within 1" of the dart
legs. Mark at the princess line.

Fold the Waist dart . Pin the Waist dart

Bring the first dart mark you Place the pins perpendicular to the
made to this mark. Crease-fold fold line of the dart legs.
the excess fabric of the dart
inward.

Do not pin through to the form Release and Pin the Seams

Fold and crease the shoulder seam and
side seam under following the guide
marks. Peel back these seams and pin.

. Pin the Center-Back Pin the Cross grain at the Arm eye

Fold and crease the muslin for the Smooth the muslin along the cross
back drape and pin to the center grain from the center of the back to the
back seam of the form at the neck, pinhead of the mid-armhole (keeping
shoulder level, and waist. the cross grain line parallel to the form)
and pin.

Clip the Neck Pin the shoulder at the neck

Smooth the muslin upwards and trim
and slash along the neckline.

Smooth the muslin along the Mark the dart intake 1/2" toward the
shoulder towards the Princess shoulder
line, and mark the intersection
of the princess seam and the
shoulder seam

Draw a 3" line along the princess Slash to the shoulder seam about
seam to direct the angle of the dart 1" from the neck

Fold the Shoulder Dart Pin the layers of the dart together,
placing pins perpendicular to fold, but
Fold the muslin along the 3" line do not pin the form
down to meet the dart intake mark,
folding the excess toward the
centerline.

Smooth the muslin to the Test the Smoothness
shoulder tip, then mark and pin
the shoulder point Run your finger along the roll line of
the armhole to the cross grain pin to
test the smoothness. If loose or tight,
release the pin to adjust.

Mark the arm eye Trim and clip the waistline to the
princess seam. Mark for dart.

Mark 1.5" (1" for juniors) from Fold the waist dart from the cross mark to
the Princess line for the dart the dart intake mark with excess towards
intake the centerline. Place the pins perpendicular
to the fold line, but do not pin the form.

Smooth, trim, and clip the muslin Pin a 1/4" ease tuck. Continue to
along the waist. smooth and slash the muslin along
the waist. Pin at the side seam.

Pencil rub, measure and draw Mark back waist
side seam as for front, but with
3/4" ease

Release holding pins. Carefully match The Completed Muslin
the guide marks of the front shoulder
seam and side seam over the back Remove holding pins and check the
seams. Pin the seams perpendicular arm eye, center front, and center back
to the fold lines, but do not pin to the for any pulling or twisting.
form.

Make Corrections
Mark any corrections needed with a red pen.

What will straighten the center front
seam?

Raise the shoulder - VR movie file

Lower the shoulder - VR movie file

Leave the neck (circle) pinned. This acts as
a pivot point.
Re-mark the center front at neck and waist.

What will balance the arm eye?

Lower the front and raise the back - VR
movie file

Lower the back and raise the front - VR
movie file

Re-mark the side seam at the arm eye and
at the waist

This draping method is from Helen Joseph-Armstrong's text "Draping for Apparel
Design", Fairchild Publications, 2000