The Basics - A Really Useful Cookbook

THE ONLY COOKBOOK YOU WILL EVER NEED

The
Basics:

A really
useful
cookbook

––––––––––––––––––––––

ANTHONY TELFORD

The
Basics

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The
Basics:

A really
useful
cookbook

Anthony telford

First published in 2009

Copyright © Anthony Telford 2009

All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced
or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or
mechanical, including photocopying, recording or by any
information storage and retrieval system, without prior
permission in writing from the publisher. The Australian
Copyright Act 1968 (the Act) allows a maximum of one chapter
or 10 per cent of this book, whichever is the greater, to
be photocopied by any educational institution for its
educational purposes provided that the educational
institution (or body that administers it) has given a
remuneration notice to Copyright Agency Limited (CAL) under
the Act.

Allen & Unwin
83 Alexander Street
Crows Nest NSW 2065
Australia
Phone: (61 2) 8425 0100
Fax: (61 2) 9906 2218
Email: [email protected]
Web: www.allenandunwin.com

National Library of Australia
Cataloguing-in-Publication entry:

Telford, Anthony, 1970-

The basics : a really useful cookbook / Anthony Telford.

978 1 74175 214 4 (pbk.)

Includes index.

Cookery.

641.5

Cover and text design by Phil Campbell
Cover photograph by Greg Elms
Indexes by Puddingburn
Printed in Australia by Ligare Book Printer, Sydney
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

To Sapphire Ocean,
my seventh child and newest cook in the family

and

In loving memory of my mother,
Jeanette Caroline Telford (1942–1984)

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Acknowledgements

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Every great project requires the commitment of a significant
few. I thank those committed to this book immensely. To the
Allen & Unwin team led by the sage Sue Hines, including
editor Siobhán Cantrill, copy-editor Susin Chow, publishing
assistant Andrea Rejante, cover and book designer Phil
Campbell and cover photographer Greg Elms. For inspiration
I thank the doyens of Australian cookbook writing: Margaret
Fulton, Joan Campbell, Stephanie Alexander and Maggie
Beer. To Vassy Kritharelis, the as-yet-undiscovered talent
of domestic cookery, thank you for the recipes, recipe
testing and editing. Thank you to my dearest friends who
have also inspired me and encouraged me past the deadline:
Vee Waterston, Vassy, Anne-Marie and Kylie, Nicola Archer,
Adam Cohen, Ren Marley, Rish and Lynds, Sue Shepherd,
Alistair McLeod and David Carruthers. Most importantly, I am
eternally grateful to my family. To my beloved Victoria for
your support and the often unrewarded work of a mother—know
that it will come back to you sevenfold. And to my children
whom I live for: Jesse, Harley, Ty, Alannah, Indiana, Chile
and Sapphire—I love you.

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Introduction

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‘A cook must be born a cook, he cannot be made.’ This is a quote from the chef Louis E. Ude,
a quote I used in the introduction to my first book The Kitchen Hand: A Miscellany of Kitchen
Wisdom. I recklessly questioned the nature of his statement only to realise after deciding
to write this book that he was not simply being philosophical but he was indeed correct. I
will come to why this statement is relevant to this book shortly, but firstly let me explain
how I realised its validity.

I grew up as one of three boys to a well-respected agricultural scientist. A rural life
dominated my first 16 years. Through my parents I was privileged to witness the law of the
land: the realisation that Mother Nature is the boss, that the ‘hunter–gatherer’ gene has
not been extinguished from modern man.

As long as I could remember, my backyard had been an edible kitchen. What I find
interesting—the point which adds credibility to Udes’ remark—is that my two brothers were
exposed to the very same environment. Yet my younger brother Paul is a barrister and enjoys
the very last stage of an ingredients journey with little interest as to how the dish was
created—fortunately he married an Italian lady who is innately in tune with food, thanks
to her heritage and her mamma. My older brother Cam, who is a captain in the army—the last
bastion of mass-produced gruel—was more interested in the workings of things electrical
than the simple pleasures that home-grown produce can provide. So why was I constantly drawn
to the kitchen? To my brothers I say: it wasn’t to get out of digging post holes, straining
fences or any other fundamental back-breaking chore. Nevertheless, the interest I had in
food came from deep within, a trait not shared by blood.

My parents were a formidable ‘paddock-to-plate’ duo. My father’s deft hand at growing
food was only matched by my mother’s creativity in cooking or preserving it. How devastating
it was when at the age of 14 my mother died. I had not only lost my mother, but one half of
this inspirational team. It was soon after this life-changing experience that I looked to
cooking as my life’s path.

This book is a long-awaited tilt at acknowledging the influence of not only my parents
but also friends, contemporaries, my family (including my brothers) and the world’s cooks,
past and present.

The Basics: A Really Useful Cookbook was, from the outset, intended to be both of those
things: basic and useful. What you will find is a wealth of recipes from times past that
are as relevant today. These are recipes I grew up with and you can set about cooking with
confidence. More importantly, it is the hints and tips that accompany each recipe that set
this apart from all other cookbooks.

Keeping in mind the opening statement, I recognise that not everyone thinks of cooking
in the same way. That in fact, no matter the upbringing, an individual seems almost
predestined to be who they become. And so, for those not born to be a cook, this book will,
I hope, assist in making life in the kitchen just that bit more enjoyable.

I have endeavoured to minimise mistakes and discrepancies in this book, but should they
appear, I take full responsibility.

Enjoy.

Anthony

Contents

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IntroductIon Ix 50
51
the useful recIpes Chicken soup with matzoh balls 52
Crab chowder 54
1. Breakfast 1 French onion soup 56
Gazpacho 58
Bircher muesli 2 Minestrone 59
Boiled eggs 4 Miso soup 60
French toast 5 Mushroom soup 61
Fruit salad 6 Pea and ham soup 62
Hash brown potato 8 Potato and leek soup 64
Omelette 10 Pumpkin soup 66
Scrambled eggs 12 Seafood gumbo 68
Slow-roasted tomatoes 14 Tomato soup
Super fluffy pancakes 16 Vegetable and barley soup 71

2. dIps and accompanIments 19 4. seafood 72
74
Baba ghanouj 20 Cooking whole fish 76
Caramelised onions 21 Crab cakes 77
Chilli jam 22 Fish fillets, pan-fried 78
Guacamole 24 Fish pie 80
Hummus 25 Garlic prawns 81
Mint jelly 26 Prawn cocktail 82
Onion jam 28 Salmon patties 84
Pesto 30 Salt and pepper squid 86
Pistou 32 Seafood crepes
Quince paste 33 Tuna bake 89
Salsa verde 34
Tapenade 36 5. poultry 90
Tomato chutney 38 92
Tomato relish 40 Apricot chicken 94
Tomato jam 42 Chicken Kiev 96
Tzatziki 43 Chicken liver parfait 98
100
3. soups Crispy skin chicken breast 102
45 Peking duck 104
Cauliflower soup
Chicken and sweet corn soup Roast chicken
46 Roast duck with cherry sauce
48 Roast turkey buffet

6. Meat  107 Panzanella 192

Baked ham Pasta salad 194
Barbecue-style spare ribs
Beef casserole 108 Potato salad 196
Beef stroganoff
Bolognaise sauce 110 Rice salad 198
Braised beef brisket
Braised lamb shanks 112 Tabbouleh 200
Chilli con carne
Corned beef 114
Cottage pie
Lasagne 116 9. grains and Pulses  203
Meat loaf
Moussaka 118
Osso buco
Rissoles 120 Couscous with preserved lemon and saffron 204
Roast beef
Roast lamb 122 Fried rice 206
Roast pork and crackling
San choy bao 124 Lentil burgers 208
Sausages and mash with pepper sauce
Steak and kidney pie 126 Macaroni cheese 210
Thai beef salad
Veal schnitzel 128 Firm polenta 212

7. Vegetables  130 Soft polenta 213

Baked potato in cream 132 Risotto 214
Bubble-and-squeak
Corn on the cob 134 Spaghetti carbonara (traditional,
Pickled vegetables
Potato mash 136 no cream recipe) 216
Ratatouille
Roasted vegetables 138 Spaghetti carbonara (westernised
Vegetable and noodle stir-fry
Vegetarian lasagne 140 creamy version) 217
Zucchini slice
142 Spring rolls 218
8. salads 
144
Caesar salad
Chef’s salad 146 10. dressings, sauces and butters  221
Coleslaw
Fattoush 148
Greek salad
Green salad 150 Savoury Sauces 222
Niçoise salad
152 Aïoli 222

Caesar dressing 224

155 Cocktail sauce 226

Garlic butter 227

156 Ginger soy 228

158 Hollandaise 229

160 Mayonnaise 230

162 Mee goring sauce 232

164 Napoli sauce 233

166 Pad Thai sauce 234

168 Red wine sauce 235

170 Plum sauce 236

172 Satay sauce 238

174 Shallot dressing 240

Sweet and sour sauce 241

177 Teriyaki sauce 242

Thai chilli sauce 243

178 White sauce 244

180 Vinaigrette 246

182 Yoghurt dressing 247

184 Sweet Sauces 248

186 Apple sauce 248

188 Butterscotch sauce 250

190 Caramel sauce 252

Chocolate sauce 254 Basic biscuits 338
Raspberry sauce 256 Biscotti 340
342
11. Desserts  Carrot cake 344
259 Cheese twists 346
Apple and rhubarb crumble 347
Apple pie Chocolate brownies 348
Apple strudel 260 Chocolate crackles 349
Baked cheesecake 262 Chocolate fudge 1 350
Baked quince 264 Chocolate fudge 2 350
Baked ricotta cheesecake 266 Coconut ice 1 352
Banana split 268 Coconut ice 2 354
Brandy snaps 270 Cupcakes 356
Bread and butter pudding 272 Devil’s food cake 358
Bread and butter pudding with soy 274 Flourless chocolate cake 360
Chocolate mousse 276 Flourless orange cake 362
Chocolate self-saucing pudding 277 Friands 364
Christmas pudding 278 Fruit cake 366
Crepes 280 Fruit mince pies 368
Junket 282 Gingerbread people 369
Lemon delicious 284 Hedgehog 370
Lemon meringue pie 286 Honeycomb 372
Lemon tart 288 Hot cross buns 373
Pannacotta 290 Hummingbird cake 374
Pavlova 292 Lumberjack cake 376
Peach Melba 294 Macaroons 378
Pecan pie 296 Marshmallows 380
Pumpkin pie 298 Melting moments 381
Queen of puddings 300 Meringues 382
Raspberry fool 302 Muffins 384
Stewed rhubarb 304 Nanaimo bars 385
Rice pudding 306 Peanut brittle 386
Sticky date pudding 307 Pecan biscuits 387
Summer pudding 308 Pikelets 388
Syrup pudding 310 Praline 390
Tiramisu 312 Quiche Lorraine 392
Trifle 314 Raspberry cheesecake 394
Yoghurt and lemon mousse 316 Sausage rolls 396
Zabaglione 318 Scones 398
320 Spanakopita 400
12. Cakes, BisCuits anD Pastries  322 Sponge cake 402
403
Almond bread Swiss roll 404
Anzac biscuits 325 Tea cake
Baklava 407
Bacon and egg pie Toffee
Banana bread 326 Vanilla slice 408
Banana cake 328 409
330 13. toPPings 
332
334 Basic icing
336 Cream cheese frosting

Devil’s chocolate frosting 410 The really UsefUl informaTion
Custard
Italian meringue 411
Lemon curd
Pastry cream 412 Avocados 476
Marmalade
Strawberry jam 414 Beans 476

14. Drinks  415 Cheese 479

Banana smoothie 416 Chillies 480
Eggnog
Hot chocolate 418 Chocolate 480
Lemon and ginger tea
Lemonade Corn 484
Punch 421 Cream 484

15. Basic recipes  Eggs 486
422 Fats 490
Apple, prune and spice stuffing 423 Fish 491
Beer batter 424 Flour 493
Blini 425 Herbs 497
Chicken stock 426 Lemons 500
Clarified butter 427 Meat 500
Club sandwich
Crème fraîche 429 Mushrooms 505
Croutons Oil 505
Curry powder
Dashi stock 430 Onions 507
Fish stock 432 Pasta 508
Fondue 434 Pastry 509
Frittata 436 Potatoes 510
Garlic bread 438 Poultry 511
Garlic confit 440 Quinces 515
Lavosh 442 Rice 515
Nachos 519
Pasta dough 443 Salt
Sweet pastry
Sweet shortcrust pastry 444 Sauces 521
Shortcrust pastry
Quick puff pastry 446 Seafood 523
Choux pastry
Pizza dough 447 Spices 527
Preserved lemons
Sugar syrup 448 Sugar 532
Vanilla sugar
Vegetable stock 450 Tomatoes 536

452 Food allergies, intolerances and food

453 additives 537

454 Basic pantry essentials 545

456 Essential kitchen equipment 546

458 Cooking techniques 549
558
460 Basic preserving 561
461 Conversion charts
462

463

464 The inDexes

466

468 recipe inDex  575
470

471 General inDex  579
472

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Bircher muesli

Serves 2
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1 cup rolled oats
½ cup fresh orange juice
½ cup natural yoghurt
¼ cup currants or sultanas
¼ cup chopped dried apricots
pinch of ground nutmeg
large pinch of ground cinnamon
1 Granny smith apple, grated, to serve
2 tablespoons natural yoghurt, extra
1 cup seasonal fresh berries, to serve
Method:
1. combine the oats, juice, yoghurt, currants or
sultanas, chopped apricots, nutmeg and cinnamon in a
large bowl and stir well. chill overnight.
2. To serve, stir in the grated apple, put into
serving bowls and garnish with the extra yoghurt and
the berries.

2 The Basics: a really useful cookBook

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HINTS AND TIPS:

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* You will need—large * For a dairy-free option, * Once made, store the

bowl, vegetable peeler, simply replace the yoghurt muesli in an airtight
grater, cup, liquid and spoon with the same quantity of container in the refrigerator
measures and a large spoon. orange juice, or any other for 2 days. Even though it
fruit juice, like apple, may last up to 5 days, it
* When in season, pineapple, mango, apricot or does begin to break down
peach. too much by day 3 and is
passionfruit is a wonderful considered a fresh product
addition to bircher muesli, * Fruit yoghurts can be once the orange juice is
so try adding the pulp of added.
4 passionfruit to this substituted for natural
recipe. If you cannot wait yoghurt, the only difference * Mixing in freshly grated
for the season to begin, use being that the end result
a small can of passionfruit will be just a bit sweeter. apple adds a refreshing
pulp, readily available at crunch to the bircher muesli.
the supermarket. * Any dried fruit can be Topping with yoghurt and
berries is just one example
* There are many varied substituted for the ones of how to serve this dish.
mentioned in the recipe, as Serving a dollop of bircher
recipes for bircher muesli long as the overall quantity muesli with cold milk is
and it should be remembered for this recipe doesn’t simple and still delicious.
that this recipe—like all exceed ½ cup. Chopped fresh banana or
recipes in this book—is just melons can replace the fresh
a guide and so the addition * Other spices that could be berries.
of a favourite ingredient or
removal of any ingredients used in this recipe include
that are not so liked is easy mixed spice or allspice to
and encouraged. replace the cinnamon and
nutmeg. If no spices are on
* For gluten intolerance, hand, simply omit from the
recipe altogether.
the use of ‘oat’ style cereals
can be substituted. One * As much as bircher muesli
in particular is made from
rice-meal; however, like is intended for breakfast,
most foods that are a it makes for a great after-
gluten substitute, the end school snack for very hungry
result will certainly have a children.
different texture, one which
coeliacs are quite used to.

Breakfast 3

Boiled eggs

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hens’ eggs, room Method:
temperature
1. There are many written methods for boiling an
water egg—see Hints and tips for why this one is the best.

2. Gently place room temperature eggs into a saucepan
and cover with cold water by at least 5 cm.

3. Bring the water to the boil, then turn down to a
barely recognisable simmer for 8–10 minutes for hard-
boiled eggs. for the best results, the water should
not be boiling. see Hints and tips for soft-boiled
eggs.

4. remove from the water with a slotted spoon and drop
into cold or iced water to stop the cooking. Boiled
eggs in the shell will keep in the fridge for 7 days.

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HINTS AND TIPS: * The only reason why eggs * For soft yolks and set

-------------------------- are hard to peel once boiled whites, cook for 5 minutes.
is because they are very For a medium cooked yolk,
* You will need—saucepan fresh. The fresher the egg, cook for 6–7 minutes.
the harder it is to peel.
and slotted spoon. The best eggs for boiling * All these times are
and then peeling are those
* As tempted as you are to that are about 2 weeks old. approximations and much
Keep the really fresh ones depends on the size of the
drop eggs from the fridge for poaching, frying or egg, temperature of the egg
into boiling water, stop now scrambling and for making and even the temperature
and read on. The main reason cakes. of the water added in the
eggs crack when boiled is due beginning.
to temperature difference. A * For really soft eggs—both
cold egg cooked in hot water
will most probably crack, and yolk and white—use the
no amount of salt or vinegar method mentioned, but remove
in the water will prevent the eggs after 2–3 minutes
this. All salt and vinegar instead of 10 minutes. These
can hope to achieve is to are also known as ‘coddled
quickly set the egg white eggs’.
that flows from a cracked egg.
The other reason is that eggs
cooked in a rapid boil are
knocked about, causing the
egg to crack.

4 The Basics: a really useful cookBook

French toast

Serves 4
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4 eggs Method:
250 ml milk
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon 1. Place the eggs, milk, cinnamon, sugar and vanilla
2 tablespoons caster sugar essence in a bowl and whisk.
1 teaspoon vanilla essence
150 g butter 2. Heat a frying pan or the flat plate of a barbecue
4 slices of sourdough (on lowest setting) and melt the butter. soak each
slice of bread in the egg mixture until wet through.
bread or thickly sliced
white bread (french 3. Place the soaked bread in the pan or on the flat
bread stick and turkish plate and cook until golden brown. turn and cook the
bread will also work) other side. It is important to cook on a low–medium
setting so the egg mixture cooks and sets, rather than
cooking on a higher heat which will burn the outside
and leave the inside soggy.

4. Once cooked, transfer to a plate and serve with
your choice of toppings—bacon, maple syrup, honeycomb
butter, fresh berries, ice-cream or lemon and sugar—
or simply eat it on its own.

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HINTS AND TIPS: * Cooking French toast in shapes from the bread before
cooking.
-------------------------- butter adds to the richness
of the dish. * Try serving French toast
* You will need—cutting
* Adding milk to the eggs as a dessert instead of a
board, bread knife, weight, breakfast dish.
spoon and liquid measures, is optional. Using just eggs
sauté pan or frying pan. mixed with the spices and * French toast is often
sugar will give a richer and
* French toast, like more eggy flavour. served as a sweet dish
but can work as a savoury
pancakes, is great for a * You could take 2 pieces alternative. Try replacing
special weekend breakfast. the cinnamon, vanilla and
French toast is certainly of bread and sandwich sliced sugar with 1 cup grated
much easier to prepare than bananas or grated apple parmesan cheese and salt
pancakes and is a great place between them, then dip the and pepper to taste. Dip the
to start for beginner cooks. sandwich in the egg mixture bread in the egg mixture
before frying. before cooking.
* This dish is also known as
* For a child’s birthday
‘eggy bread’ in the UK; and
in France, it is known as party, use star- or people-
‘pain perdu’. shaped cutters to cut

Breakfast 5

Fruit salad

Serves 4
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¼ rockmelon (cantaloupe), peeled and seeds removed
¼ pineapple, peeled and cored
1 apple, peeled and cored
2 bananas, peeled
1 cup green grapes, washed
2 passionfruit
natural yoghurt, to serve
Method:
1. cut the rockmelon, pineapple, apple and banana into
roughly 2-cm pieces.
2. Mix all the fruit in a bowl then serve with fresh,
natural yoghurt.
3. store the fruit salad (without the yoghurt) in an
airtight container for up to 2 days.

6 The Basics: a really useful cookBook

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HINTS AND TIPS:

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* You will need—cutting * Bananas, being a very soft * Banana, strawberry and

board, cook’s knife, peeler, fruit, should only be added passionfruit salad—
paring knife, cup measure, just before serving. Once 3 bananas, 300 g strawberries
bowl and storage container. mixed and then stored, banana and 3 passionfruit (the
in a fruit salad will begin passionfruit will prevent
* This is the most basic to soften quickly and become the banana from browning).
brown and mushy, making
fruit salad recipe and can a great fruit salad look * Strawberry, grape
therefore be adapted to any unappetising the next day.
fruit, but please consider and mango salad—500 g
the following tips. * Think about matching hard strawberries (hulled and
quartered), 500 g green
* When cutting fruit, it is fruits (as in the recipe) grapes (washed) and 3 mangoes
or soft fruits (as in the (cut into 2-cm pieces).
recommended that all fruit is examples below).
cut the same size, but not * Tropical fruit salad—
necessarily the same shape. * Melon fruit salad—a mix
This means fruit can be cut make use of any tropical
into large pieces, about of equal parts watermelon, fruits like papaya, lychee,
5 cm, or into small pieces, rockmelon and honeydew. mango, longan, dragon fruit,
1 cm or less—but don’t be pineapple, star apples,
tempted to mix the two sizes s*alMaidx—edonbceerriyn and mango carambola (star fruit),
as it will look odd, and the season, make chocolate pudding fruit,
smaller pieces can become mangosteen and bananas.
damaged and mushy from the the most of fresh berries and
size and weight of the
larger pieces. counter their tartness by

adding a mango cut into small

pieces.

* Never be tempted to add s*alPaidn—eampipxle½, papaya and mint
pineapple,
many fruits to a fruit salad
to make it impressive. 1 pink papaya (peeled and
Sometimes a combination of
3 well-matched fruits is black seeds removed) and
better than having a mixture
of 10. ¼ cup shredded mint.

* Fruit salad is best eaten * Citrus fruit salad—

on the day or, at the very 4 oranges, 6 mandarins,
latest, the next day. Some 2 pink grapefruit and 1 lime
fruits will certainly last (mint would go well with
longer; however, once mixed, this salad).
some soft fruits will rapidly
break down.

Breakfast 7

HasH brown potato

Serves 4
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500 g (about 2 large) potatoes
2 tablespoons vegetable or canola oil
2 tablespoons butter
salt and pepper, to taste

Method:
1. scrub the potatoes—they do not need to be
peeled—then coarsely grate. squeeze the grated potato
slightly to remove some of its water (this makes for a
crispier end result).
2. heat a 30-cm frying pan, preferably nonstick, over
medium–high heat. add the oil and butter.
3. When hot, add the potatoes and push down with a
spatula to spread evenly in the bottom of the pan.
sprinkle the top with salt and pepper. cook until the
bottom is browned and crispy, about 10 minutes. Do not
try to flip until it is browned, or the potatoes might
stick.
4. flip the hash brown, cut into sections if
necessary, and cook another 10 minutes, or until
browned and crispy on the other side.
5. serve immediately, or cool and simply reheat in the
microwave or preferably in a hot oven (210°c) for
5 minutes.

8 The Basics: a really useful cookBook

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HINTS AND TIPS:

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* You will need—grater, * For a variation, after * A large disk of hash brown

bowl, weight and spoon squeezing excess moisture can be used as a pizza base
measures, nonstick frying from the grated potato, for those with wheat and
pan and spatula. try adding 1 egg yolk, gluten intolerance—simply
1 onion (finely chopped) and top with all your favourite
* There are many different ¼ teaspoon hot (or mild) pizza goodies.
paprika. Instead of paprika,
styles of hash browns. This ½ teaspoon of finely chopped * When cooking individual
recipe is about as easy and herbs like rosemary or sage
as fast as they come—and marry well with potato. hash browns, do not overcrowd
is, in fact, that of a Swiss the pan at the risk of the
potato dish called ‘Potato * Or add the kernels from hash browns sticking together
rosti’. Other recipes as they cook and tearing
suggest boiling and mixing a cob of corn to the recipe apart as they are turned.
the potato with all kinds with 1 tablespoon chopped
of ingredients—they’re not parsley, ½ red capsicum * Individual hash browns
wrong. So the term ‘hash (chopped) and 1 fresh red
brown’ becomes quite loose, chilli (chopped). Then top can be used as a base for
especially when made with this with Guacamole and eggs Benedict, instead of an
sweet potato or even carrots. bacon. English muffin; in which case
it becomes quite a different
* A standard supermarket * Once cooked, top regular dish, especially if ham is
replaced with smoked salmon—
potato is all that is hash browns with crispy bacon yum! This is especially good
required, this usually means then grated cheese and finish for those with wheat and
a Sebago, Coliban or Nadine. in a hot oven for 5 minutes. gluten intolerance.

* To avoid discolouration * Remember, if using a * For a cocktail party or

of the grated potato, work nonstick pan, use a plastic dinner party, cook small hash
quickly and squeeze the spatula not a knife to flip browns then top with smoked
moisture out as soon as the hash brown and cut it. salmon and crème fraîche,
possible. If making a large or trout dip and chives, or
batch, keep the grated potato * Here’s an easy way to flip sour cream and salmon roe, or
in water until ready to simply mayonnaise and capers.
assemble, then be sure to the whole hash brown: slide
thoroughly squeeze out all the hash brown out of the pan
the water before cooking. and onto a plate. Invert the
pan over the plate and the
* If using a nonstick pan, hash brown and turn the whole
thing over together. The
the use of oil and butter can browned part is now on top.
be eliminated to reduce fats
in the diet.

Breakfast 9

Omelette

Serves 1
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3 large eggs
2 tablespoons warm water
large pinch of salt flakes
pinch of ground white pepper
2 tablespoons butter
1 teaspoon olive oil

Method:
1. combine the egg, water, salt and pepper in a bowl
and whisk until well combined. The water evaporates as
the omelette cooks making it light and fluffy.
2. Place a nonstick frying pan over medium–high heat,
add the butter and olive oil and heat until the butter
begins to bubble without browning.
3. add the egg mixture to the pan. as the egg begins
to set, use a rubber or plastic spatula to move the
egg from the outer part of the pan to the middle, to
allow the uncooked egg to fill any exposed parts of the
pan.
4. When half-cooked and still runny on top, add any
flavours you like (some ideas are listed opposite) and
continue to cook until set or better still cook the
top of the omelette under the grill section of the
oven. This will only take 1–2 minutes.
5. remove from the heat and shake the pan to loosen
the omelette from the base of the pan. shake the
omelette to one side, tilting so that the top third
can be folded over, and then turn onto a plate.

10 The Basics: a really useful cookBook

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HINTS AND TIPS:

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* You will need—cutting * Mushroom, tomato and

board, cook’s knife, bowl, spinach omelette—1 cup
spoon measures, whisk, sliced Swiss brown mushrooms
spatula, shallow frying or (cooked in 2 tablespoons
sauté pan or crepe pan. olive oil), 1 ripe tomato
(peeled, de-seeded and
* This recipe is a classic chopped), and 1 cup spinach
(chopped and wilted by
French-style omelette which cooking it in the pan after
means it is folded as it is the mushrooms). Loosely mix
served. Another version is all the ingredients in a
the Spanish omelette which bowl, ready to place in the
is not folded, but served flat middle of the half-cooked
from the pan. Fans of the omelette. Fresh tomato can be
Spanish omelette have been replaced with ¼ cup semi- or
known to cook their omelette sun-dried tomatoes. Spinach
in a shallow terracotta can be replaced with rocket.
baking dish, eating it Mushrooms can be replaced
straight from the dish. with grilled artichoke
hearts.
* A simple mixture of
* Try other fillings like
chopped fresh herbs can be
added to the egg mixture. some of the combinations
A quantity no more than mentioned in the hints and
1 tablespoon of chopped herbs tips list for frittata.
like parsley, thyme, sage,
oregano, mint, chervil or * An omelette is considered
tarragon can be used in any
combination. a benchmark for any good
chef, a sign of solid
c*heBeasceono,meslpeitntaec—h 1anrdasghoeart’osf training and of a good
understanding of the basics.
bacon (chopped and fried), In some kitchens, fail the
1 cup spinach (chopped and omelette test and you fail
wilted by cooking it in the to get the job. Domestic
pan after the bacon), and cooks need not place so
¼ cup goat’s cheese much pressure on themselves,
(crumbled). Loosely mix all just remember practice makes
ingredients in a bowl, ready perfect.
to place in the middle of the
half-cooked omelette. The
goat’s cheese can be replaced
with fetta, ricotta, brie or
grated cheddar.

Breakfast 11

Scrambled eggS

Serves 2
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4–6 eggs (depending on size)
2 tablespoons thick cream (35 per cent fat)
salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste
75 g butter
chopped chives, to garnish

Method:
1. in a bowl, crack the eggs, add the cream and season
with salt and pepper.
2. Whisk lightly with a fork—the whites and yolks
don’t have to be completely mixed and the mixture
should contain some air; over-whisking the mixture
expels the air and makes for heavier scrambled eggs.
3. Melt the butter in a heavy-based nonstick pan over
medium heat. When the butter begins to bubble, add the
egg mixture and reduce heat to low. as it begins to
cook and thicken, fold the thicker bits towards the
centre of the pan—uncooked egg will moat around the
cooked egg. repeat this process until the eggs are
close to ready but still a little runny, then remove
from the heat and move the mixture once or twice more
as the heat of the pan will complete the cooking.
4. serve immediately—scrambled eggs become tough and
dry if you attempt to keep them warm. Garnish with the
chives or other fresh green herbs.

12 The Basics: a really useful cookBook

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HINTS AND TIPS:

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* You will need—bowl, whisk beginning to overcook, become party can be quite a hit. A
rubbery and then watery. regular serve of scrambled
or fork, weight measure, eggs (2 eggs per person)
silicon spatula and nonstick * Cooking scrambled eggs plus some smoked salmon and
pan. a small green salad is a
on a high heat can be done; very acceptable way to begin
* For great tasting eggs, however, there is the risk a meal.
of browning parts of the
try to source eggs from a eggs and leaving unsightly * For an extra special
farmers market or at the very spots throughout the mixture.
least use free range eggs. Also, eggs are a delicate treat, just as the eggs
protein that do not respond are nearly ready, add
* The degree to which people well to high heat. 1 tablespoon mascarpone
cooked— cheese or crème fraîche or
like their eggs *recAidpdeinsgugcgreesatms——arsestuhlitss 2 tablespoons goat’s cheese.
Stir once or twice and serve.
whether scrambled, poached, in very smooth, creamy and
decadent scrambled eggs. * This recipe for scrambled
fried or boiled—can vary Replacing the cream with
milk or low fat milk can be eggs can be slightly
greatly. However, the two done, but be very careful undercooked and then poured
not to overcook the eggs as onto 2 tortillas. Top each
most common are runny and it will toughen the mixture one with ¼ avocado and a
and leave you with a heavily slice of good ham then roll
hard. This is very true when weeping mass of tough egg like a burrito, place on a
curds and watery milky whey tray and top with a small
making scrambled eggs, so as as the proteins in milk also handful of grated tasty
overcook and coagulate. cheese. Bake in a hot oven
much as this recipe calls (210°C) for 5 minutes.
* For lactose intolerance, Breakfast Burrito! Tabasco
for the eggs to be just set, sauce or a fresh salsa made
use 2 tablespoons of water of 1 fresh tomato (chopped),
some may feel it necessary to instead of cream or milk— ½ red onion (chopped),
again, so long as the mixure 2 tablespoons chopped
cook them to within an inch is only just cooked, this coriander, salt and pepper,
version of scrambled eggs and 1 tablespoon extra virgin
of dust; this is completely can still be quite amazing. olive oil will finish this
Water added to scrambled breakfast or brunch meal.
up to the individual. Expect egg mixture can create fluffy
eggs as the water begins to
that in restaurants eggs steam the beaten eggs.

should always be ‘just’ * Surprising as this may

cooked, and it is up to the seem, serving scrambled eggs
for an entrée at a dinner
customer to express ‘firm’ or

‘well done’ when ordering.

* If cooking scrambled

eggs for more than 2, then
unfortunately it becomes a
lengthy process. Too many
serves in one pan, although
achievable, will create havoc
with overcrowding, possibly
causing much spillage. Also,
it would mean the eggs are
exposed to heat for a longer
period, meaning that while
some parts of the eggs are
not cooked, other parts are

Breakfast 13

Slow-roaSted tomatoeS

Serves 4–8
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8 roma or vine-ripened tomatoes
3 tablespoons olive oil
2 tablespoons salt flakes
1 tablespoon freshly ground black pepper
Method:
1. Preheat the oven to 110ºc.
2. slice the tomatoes in half and place, cut side up,
on a baking tray lined with baking paper.
3. Brush or drizzle with the olive oil. sprinkle with
the salt and pepper.
4. roast in the oven for 3 hours.
5. remove from the oven, cool and keep refrigerated,
covered, for up to 5 days.

14 The Basics: a really useful cookBook

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HINTS AND TIPS:

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* You will need—cutting * To use with pasta—peel

board, cook’s knife, spoon skins from the roasted
measure, baking tray and tomatoes and place in a food
baking paper. processor, then blitz to make
a simple yet full-flavoured
* These tomatoes freeze well passata (fine tomato sauce).
Homemade tomato sauce is an
for up to 2 months. indispensable ingredient in
any kitchen, especially for
* Try adding 2 thinly sliced beginner cooks looking for an
easy meal.
garlic cloves, placed on the
tomatoes, before roasting.

* The marriage of basil and * For good storage of the

tomato is perfect, so try roasted tomato sauce—place
adding 6 basil leaves. You the hot puree in sterilised
can also use other herbs jars and seal with a lid.
like oregano, parsley, mint The heat from the sauce
or thyme. Chop the herbs will create a vacuum while
finely and sprinkle over the cooling.
tomatoes before roasting.
* For a juicier sauce, try
* Finely chop 4 shallots
cooking the tomatoes at a
or 1 small brown onion and higher temperature for a
sprinkle over tomatoes shorter time. Preheat the
before roasting. Shallots are oven to 170ºC and roast for
favoured over onions as they 1½ hours until softened.
tend to be less pungent, but These tomatoes are less
they are a bit more fiddly to intense but still very tasty;
peel and chop. try grilling or pan frying
when reheating, or simply
* Roasted tomatoes are puree to use as pasta sauce.

fantastic with breakfast,
in a salad, chopped into a
frittata, served with roasted
or grilled meats, or on a
mezze or antipasto platter.

* Once cooked, drizzle

tomatoes with balsamic
vinegar and scatter with
goat’s cheese; serve with a
simple salad or as a side
dish.

Breakfast 15

Super fluffy pancakeS

Serves 7 children and 2 adults
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750 ml milk or buttermilk
8 eggs, separated
few drops of vanilla essence (optional)
600 g self-raising flour
100 g caster sugar
about 125 g unsalted butter, for cooking

Method:

1. in one bowl, mix the milk or buttermilk and egg
yolks, whisking until the egg yolks are combined. at
this point the vanilla essence can be added, if using.

2. Place the egg whites in a second, large bowl, ready
for whisking.

3. in a third large bowl, sift the flour and sugar,
making a well in the centre. Pour the milk mixture
into the centre of the flour/sugar mixture and begin
combining with a wooden spoon, slowly drawing in the
flour to form a thick batter. Do not worry if the
mixture is excessively lumpy. By not whisking the milk
mixture into the flour, you ensure that the flour is not
overworked thereby tightening the batter—also, the
lumps NeVer appear in the final pancakes.

4. Whisk the egg whites until soft peaks form then
fold into the batter.

5. cover and allow to rest in the fridge for 1 hour—
although i’m unbelievably impatient and usually cook
them straightaway.

6. cooking them requires the use of a large frying pan
(or barbecue flat plate if you’re a large family) set
on low–medium heat. add a good knob of the butter and
melt. spoon in the pancake mixture according to your
preferred size. When bubbles begin to appear evenly
on the surface, turn over. The second side will only
require 1–2 minutes to cook.

16 The Basics: a really useful cookBook

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HINTS AND TIPS:

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* You will need—3 bowls, * Leftover mixture can

whisk or electric beaters, also be cooked into smaller
large spoon, egg flip or pancakes, refrigerated and
spatula, frying pan, butter used in school lunch boxes
knife, weight and liquid the next day.
measures.
* Whisking the egg whites
* This super fluffy pancake
is entirely optional. The
recipe takes a little extra egg whites certainly do make
time and uses 3 bowls. Do not a difference, giving the
shy away, as the results are pancakes a ‘light as air’
sensational. texture. But time and washing
up permitting, simply beat
* The mixture can be halved the whole eggs into the milk
and stir the wet mixture into
as it makes a very large the dry mixture. Remember to
batch (enough for my not overwork the batter.
7 children and us parents).
Any leftover batter will last * Cooking the pancakes in
until the next day; after
that, however, the egg whites butter gives the edges of the
will begin to lose their pancakes a crisp, frilly side
bubbles and the mixture will which is a delight to eat and
become grey and lifeless. a great contrast to the soft,
fluffy centre.
* Toppings can range from

the usual suspects—maple
syrup, lemon and sugar,
grilled banana or fresh
berries—to the more exotic,
poached rhubarb, blueberries
in vanilla syrup, confit
pineapple or honeycomb
butter—all of which love
ice-cream!

Breakfast 17

------------------------------------
xxxxx 2. Dips and Accompaniments xxxxx
------------------------------------

BaBa ghanouj

Makes 4 cups
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2 medium eggplants Method:
1 garlic clove, crushed
juice of 1 lemon 1. Prick the eggplants all over with a fork.
100 g tahini
300 g natural yoghurt 2. Place each over a naked gas flame, set to medium.
¼ teaspoon allspice cook for 5–7 minutes, turning constantly until
salt flakes and freshly blistered and blackened. alternatively, this can be
done on the barbecue grill but will take much longer.
ground pepper, to taste
3. eggplants are cooked when very soft to press. Place
in a bowl and cover with plastic wrap.

4. When cool enough to handle, drain excess liquid and
gently remove skin with a small knife. allow the skin
to come away from the flesh without force (any flesh
coming off with the skin will have a bitter flavour).

5. in a bowl, mash the eggplant pulp with a fork or
place in a food processor and mash using the pulse
button. Drain well, discarding any juice from the
eggplant.

6. combine the remaining ingredients in a bowl, add
the eggplant and mix well.

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HINTS AND TIPS: some palates. The eggplants * As a spread on rolls
can be pricked and then
-------------------------- roasted in the oven at 220ºC and flat bread with roasted
until completely soft, then vegetables, cold roast meats
* You will need—cutting continue as per the method and salads, baba ghanouj is a
given. healthy alternative to butter
board, knife, fork, weight or margarine.
and spoon measures, 2 bowls, * Baba ghanouj as a dip
spoon and food processor * This recipe should yield
(optional). should be drizzled with
excellent extra virgin olive enough dip for 10 people when
* Pricking the eggplant all oil and a few grinds of fresh served on its own with crusty
pepper. bread and vegetable batons.
over allows the heat to reach
the centre and it will cook * Baba ghanouj is fantastic * Refrigerated, baba ghanouj
more evenly.
served with meats instead of will last up to 7 days.
* Cooking the eggplant over a sauce. It’s especially good Before serving, bring to room
with grilled pork and lamb temperature to enhance the
a naked flame imparts a very cutlets. flavours.
smoky flavour to the dip. This
flavour can be too strong for

20 The Basics: a really useful cookBook

Caramelised onions

Makes about 1 cup
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

100 ml olive oil method:
3 red or brown onions,
1. Heat the oil in a heavy-based saucepan over
peeled and sliced medium heat.

2. add the onion and cook until beginning to wilt.
Reduce the heat to low and continue to cook for a
further 20 minutes, stirring frequently to avoid the
onions sticking to the base of the pan.

3. once golden in colour, remove from the pan and
cool. store in a sealed container or jar in the
refrigerator. caramelised onions will last 5–7 days
covered and refrigerated.

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HINTS AND TIPS: * Even though red or brown antipasto plate with goat’s
cheese, olives, roasted
-------------------------- onions are called for in this garlic and toasted flat bread.
recipe, purple onions, white Mix some caramelised onion in
* You will need—cutting onions, pickling onions and a quiche or frittata.
even shallots will make good
board, cook’s knife, paring alternatives. * At dinner, any time a
knife, liquid measure,
roasting tray, saucepan and * Adding fresh herbs is a roast or grilled meats are to
wooden spoon. be served, use caramelised
nice option. To the above onions as an alternative
f*riKdegeep—otnhiiosnsisinthtehebest way recipe, try adding in the to mustard and sauce. They
beginning 1 sprig rosemary or also marry brilliantly with
to avoid crying when cutting 2 sprigs thyme. Or add 1 bay roasted vegetables, grilled
the onion. The cold of the leaf and 5 black peppercorns. vegetable salad, or leftover
fridge subdues the substance vegetables that have been
known as ‘allicin’ which is * Caramelised onions have made into bubble-and-squeak
produced when the onion is for breakfast the next day.
cut into. a wide variety of uses. For Mix into pasta dishes just
breakfast, they make a great before serving or spread over
* Don’t confuse caramelised addition to any fry-up. a pizza base. Probably the
Even spread on toast with a most famous way of serving
onions with onion jam. few pieces of grilled bacon caramelised onions is with
Caramelised onion refers or avocado for a simple gravy, grilled sausages and
to the browning or breakfast idea. Try also mashed potato; and they are
‘caramelisation’ of the adding to an omelette. great to serve with sausages
sugars that are naturally and mash with pepper sauce.
present in onions. Onion jam, * For lunch, use the onions
you will notice, is made with
sugar. in a roll or sandwich—or
as an accompaniment to an

Dips anD accompaniments 21

Chilli jam

Makes about 4 cups
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4 red capsicums
6 tomatoes
100 ml olive oil
2 garlic cloves, minced
8 long red chillies, sliced in half lengthways, seeds

removed and chopped
100 ml malt vinegar
300 g brown sugar
2 teaspoons salt

Method:

1. Place capsicums on a roasting tray lined with
baking paper and bake at 250ºc, turning every
5 minutes until the capsicums are blackened on all
sides. remove from the oven and place in a bowl to
cool before peeling.

2. Peel the tomatoes while the capsicums are roasting.
Bring a saucepan of water to the boil. With a small
kitchen knife or paring knife, remove the tomato stem
area. score the opposite end of the tomato with a
criss-cross pattern. cook the tomatoes in the boiling
water for 20 seconds. remove, cool slightly and peel
off the skins. slice the tomatoes in half (between the
top and bottom) then, using a teaspoon, remove the
seeds. chop roughly and set aside.

3. Peel the capsicums and discard any seeds and stem.
chop into small pieces.

4. heat a heavy-based saucepan over medium heat and
add the olive oil.

5. add the garlic and chilli and fry gently for
1 minute.

6. add the chopped capsicum and tomato and cook for
5 minutes.

22 The Basics: a really useful cookBook

method cont.

7. add the vinegar, sugar and salt, cook on medium
heat for 15 minutes, then reduce the heat slightly and
cook until the jam has thickened.

8. pour into a sterilised jar (if storing), cool,
cover and refrigerate. if using immediately and often,
store in a jar or plastic container with a lid and
keep refrigerated.

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HINTS AND TIPS: * It may seem strange or more—so be careful. Try
washing your hands with
-------------------------- that there is lots of straight lemon juice—it
capsicum and tomato in a will help.
* You will need—cutting dish called chilli jam.
Fortunately, capsicum,
board, cook’s knife, paring tomato and chilli are all
knife or small kitchen from the ‘nightshade’ family
knife, roasting tray, baking of plants with the first 2
paper, heavy-based saucepan, ingredients adding body
weight, spoon and liquid to the jam. Chilli on its
measures and a wooden spoon. own, as a jam, would be too
strong and would require
* Peeling the capsicum and too much mucking around
to get enough even for a
tomato may seem like a lot of small jar.
work, and it is a step that
could be skipped; however, it * The chilli heat in
is important as both capsicum
and tomato skin do not break this recipe is very mild,
down when cooked and stay therefore if you require
stringy and chewy in the jam some real chilli kick in
if not removed. your jam, add 4–8 bird’s
eye chillies to the recipe,
* To skip roasting, preparing them the same way
as the long red chillies
peeling and de-seeding the but being extra careful in
capsicum, simply buy 300 g handling the smaller hot
roasted capsicum from a good chillies. After handling
delicatessen and roughly chop small hot chillies and even
before adding to the recipe. after washing your hands,
there will be chilli residue
* 6 large whole tomatoes on your hands for an hour

will yield about 600 g peeled
and de-seeded tomato.

Dips anD accompaniments 23

Guacamole

Makes about 2 cups
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2 ripe avocados Method:
½ cup lemon juice
1. carefully cut each avocado down to the seed using a
salt sharp knife. Turn the avocado around the blade of the
knife to cut it in half lengthways. Twist the halves
in opposite directions, lifting as you twist to reveal
two halves, one with the seed still attached. To
remove the seed, give it a short, sharp chop with the
knife; this will bury the blade a few millimetres into
the seed’s woody surface. Twist the knife and the seed
is free.

2. scoop the flesh from the skin using a spoon. Place
in a bowl and mash with a fork, keeping it quite
chunky.

3. add the lemon juice and salt to taste.

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HINTS AND TIPS: * Use basic guacamole * Lime juice can be

-------------------------- instead of butter or substituted for lemon juice.
margarine on salad
* You will need—cutting sandwiches. * You can stir through

board, sharp cook’s knife, * Use with nachos as an cottage cheese or sour cream
bowl, cup measure, spoon and for a variation.
fork. alternative to sour cream.

* This is the most basic * Serve as part of an

and original recipe for antipasto platter.
guacamole. Adding other
ingredients is a matter of * To refrigerate, cover
taste. Following is a more
recognised recipe which can with a film of plastic wrap
have all or just some of to prevent browning—it will
the mentioned ingredients keep for about a week.
mixed into the basic recipe:
2 fresh tomatoes (finely * If you want the guacamole
chopped), ½ onion (finely
chopped), 1 bird’s eye to be of a thicker
chilli (finely chopped) and consistency, add ¼–½ cup of
2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh breadcrumbs.
fresh coriander.
* For a smoother

consistency, blend in a food
processor.

24 The Basics: a really useful cookBook

Hummus

Makes about 600 g
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250 g dried chickpeas method:
1 litre cold water
6 tablespoons tahini 1. place the chickpeas in a large container and cover
4 garlic cloves, crushed with the water. soak overnight.
juice of 4 lemons
salt 2. Drain the chickpeas, place in a large pot, and add
enough fresh cold water to cover by 10 cm. simmer
until tender, about 1 hour.

3. Remove from the heat and drain, keeping some of the
cooking water.

4. process the chickpeas, tahini, garlic and lemon
juice in a food processor, adding just enough of
the cooking liquid to bring the mixture to a creamy
consistency. season with salt to taste.

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HINTS AND TIPS: remembering they double in * Try adding 2 teaspoons

-------------------------- weight and size. ground cumin to the hummus.

* You will need—cutting * Canned chickpeas can be * Hummus can be served warm

board, cook’s knife, large used as a substitute for the as is traditional in the east
pot, weight and spoon dried variety; be careful when of Turkey. In fact hummus is
measures, food processor, seasoning because the canned the Arab word for chickpea.
plastic spatula and bowl. varieties are already salted.
* Dried chickpeas can be
* When simmering the * Do not salt the water when
soaked and cooked a couple of
chickpeas, to prevent foam cooking, this will toughen days in advance and kept in
forming on the water’s the chickpeas. the fridge.
surface, add 1 tablespoon
vegetable oil to the water * Use hummus as a dip or as * Cooked chickpeas can be
before it comes to the boil.
a spread in rolls, flat breads frozen.
* The older the chickpeas and sandwiches.
* Changing the water once it
the longer the cooking time. * When serving as a dip,
has reached the boil reduces
* Once cooked, the chickpeas drizzle with extra virgin intestinal gas because the
olive oil and sprinkle with a indigestible sugars which
can be placed in cold water few pinches of paprika. cause the gas dilute in the
so the loose skins float to water.
the top. * As an alternative to extra
* Store dried chickpeas in
* When soaking and cooking virgin olive oil, drizzle
with olive oil infused with an airtight container for no
dried chickpeas, it is worth basil or chilli. more than 1 year.

Dips anD accompaniments 25

Mint jelly

Makes about 1 litre
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1 kg Granny smith apples
500 ml water
½ bunch mint, washed and chopped with the stalks
1 cup cider vinegar
white sugar

Method:
1. roughly chop the apples; leave the skin on and do
not core.
2. Place the apples, water and mint in a saucepan over
medium heat and cook gently until the apples are soft
and pulpy, about 20 minutes.
3. add the vinegar, remove the pan from the heat and
mash the apples with a potato masher.
4. set up a pot with a colander or large strainer
lined with muslin cloth sitting on top. Pour the apple
mixture into the cloth-lined strainer and leave to
drain overnight—do not squeeze the mixture unless a
cloudy jelly doesn’t worry you.
5. Measure the strained juice and pour into a saucepan
then add an equal quantity of sugar. Place the pan
over medium heat, stirring to dissolve the sugar.
Bring to the boil and use a spoon to remove any scum
forming on the surface. simmer for 15 minutes or
until the temperature reaches 103–105ºc on a sugar
thermometer.
6. Pour into 4 x 300-ml hot sterilised jars, and allow
to cool before sealing. The jelly will continue to set
over a few days. keeps in a cool dry place for 1 year.
once opened, refrigerate.

26 The Basics: a really useful cookBook

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HINTS AND TIPS:

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* You will need—cutting * Several things may have

board, cook’s knife, an effect on the jelly not
saucepan, cup, weight and setting. 1. Not enough pectin
liquid measures, potato in the fruit—tart apples,
masher, wooden spoon, like Granny Smiths, are
colander, muslin cloth, 4 x required due to the higher
300-ml preserving jars and amount of pectin than sweet
lids and sugar thermometer. eating apples. 2. The amount
of sugar—sugar helps the
* It’s important to jelly set, therefore the
ratio of sugar to liquid must
understand that homemade mint be right. 3. Evaporation—
jelly does not look like the simmering the liquid at the
commercially prepared stuff. end needs to be done long
Homemade is more of a golden enough so the required amount
amber colour, not bright of water evaporates, leaving
green. Bright green can be the right proportion of sugar
achieved by adding a few to liquid; this is why a
drops of green food colouring sugar thermometer is used.
and 1 teaspoon dried mint to
give that ‘real’ mint effect * Sometimes a jelly will
to the jelly.
not have set when everything
* There is never any need to seems to have gone right; to
try to remedy this, bring
peel or core fruit such as back to the boil and add some
apples when making a jelly, cream of tartar or lemon
this adds to the flavour and juice.
helps to make the jelly set.
See Basic preserving. * A clear jelly can only be

* Although the sugar and achieved by the undisturbed
straining of the fruit puree.
vinegar preserve the jelly, Force it through and the
the biggest risk is mould. jelly will be cloudy.
Keeping the jelly at room
temperature for 1 year can * A very firm jelly may
be done, but if this makes
you nervous, then store it ‘weep’, sometimes seen in
in the refrigerator. Once homemade jams and jellies
opened, all preserves must be given out by relatives. This
refrigerated. weeping is a result of too
much acid being added to the
mixture.

Dips anD accompaniments 27

OniOn jam

Makes about 2 cups
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200 g white sugar
50 ml water
2 large onions, finely diced
100 ml port
salt

Method:
1. Place the sugar in a pan and add just enough water
to soften. Bring to the boil then allow to simmer
until it is quite dark in colour—this is the caramel.
2. add the onion immediately, followed by the port
(being careful not to have it splatter on you), then
stir to combine the ingredients. at this stage, the
caramel may form clumps; do not panic as these will
dissolve.
3. season with the salt.
4. reduce the heat slightly and simmer until the onion
is thoroughly cooked and takes on a dark brown colour.
have water by the pan as the jam tends to lose all of
its liquid before it is ready, so add a little more to
keep it moist.
5. once thick and fragrant, remove from the heat.
onion jam can be served warm or chilled and will
store, covered, in the refrigerator for 4–6 weeks.

28 The Basics: a really useful cookBook

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HINTS AND TIPS:

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* You will need—cutting * Use red or brown onions in

board, cook’s knife, weight this recipe.
and liquid measures, saucepan
and wooden spoon. * Many recipes will ask

* Onion jam is great with that the onions are cooked
in butter until naturally
chicken or duck liver pâté caramelised (see caramelised
and any meat terrines as well onions) then the remaining
as with roast beef or lamb. ingredients are added. That
method is fine as well but I
* Onion jam is fantastic prefer a ‘jam’ or ‘preserve’
made without dairy products
served with very ripe brie just in case somebody is
or camembert. For a more allergic to dairy.
basic taste, whip some room
temperature cream cheese
until soft, spoon into a
bowl then dollop with onion
jam and serve with plain
biscuits. Crusty bread served
with blue cheese and onion
jam is a great way to finish
off a dinner party.

* Substitute the port for

balsamic vinegar for a
different yet stunning onion
jam.

* Serve onion jam in

burgers, as an accompaniment
for a hot breakfast or simply
with grilled meats.

* As a delicious snack,

serve onion jam alongside
Persian fetta (which is
creamier and less salty
than regular fetta cheese),
roasted or garlic confit and
crusty bread.

Dips anD accompaniments 29

Pesto

Makes about 8 cups
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4 cups well packed basil leaves
6 garlic cloves, peeled and sliced
1 cup pine nuts or walnuts (or a combination of the

two)
1½ cups extra virgin olive oil
salt and pepper
1 cup freshly grated parmesan or pecorino cheese (or a

combination of the two)

Method:
1. Place the basil leaves and garlic in a food
processor or blender and process until the basil is
finely chopped.
2. add the nuts and process until the nuts are also
finely chopped.
3. With the motor running, add the oil in a slow,
steady stream. after the oil is incorporated, turn off
the machine and add the salt and pepper to taste. add
the cheese and process until combined.
4. if not using immediately, store in an airtight
container with a thin coating of olive oil on top to
keep the pesto from going dark. Pesto covered with oil
will keep well in the refrigerator for 2 weeks.

30 The Basics: a really useful cookBook

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HINTS AND TIPS:

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* You will need—cutting * Cut a chicken breast in * Use on a pizza base

board, cook’s knife, cup half, spread with pesto and a instead of tomato sauce.
measure and food processor generous slice of camembert
or blender. cheese and a thin slice * Chopped basil browns
of prosciutto, secure with
* 4 cups of basil leaves a toothpick and bake in a quickly so add a layer of
moderate oven for 20 minutes oil to the top of the jar to
will require about 2 large until the chicken starts to prevent it from discolouring,
bunches of basil. If this turn golden. and the pesto will keep
seems too much, simply halve longer because air is kept
the recipe. * Use pesto as a sandwich out.

* Using just pecorino cheese spread.

and increasing the quantity * Pesto can be frozen for
of garlic to 8 cloves will
make a more intense, sharply up to 6 months. The easiest
flavoured pesto. way to control portions is by
freezing in ice cube trays,
* Toasting the pine nuts and once frozen, transferring
to a clip lock bag.
will also add flavour. To do
this, place the pine nuts on * Serve as part of an
a baking tray and roast in
the oven at 200ºC, tossing antipasto platter.
every 3–4 minutes until
evenly brown. This is a job * Add a generous dollop to
that requires the cook to
stay in the kitchen as the minestrone.
pine nuts will burn easily.
* Toast good quality bread
* The amount of olive oil
in a moderate oven, spread
can be adjusted depending on with the pesto and serve as
the desired final consistency crostini.
(thicker or thinner). Try
adding or removing ½ cup * Add pesto to roasted
olive oil.
asparagus, stir through
* Mix 1 tablespoon pesto gnocchi, risotto, scrambled
eggs or omelettes, or mix
through 4 tablespoons through a potato salad.
softened butter and keep in
the fridge. It can be sliced * For the advanced cook,
and placed on top of hot
meats just before serving. add more parmesan and less
oil, and use as a filling
for homemade tortellini or
ravioli.

Dips anD accompaniments 31

Pistou

Makes about 1 cup
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4 garlic cloves, peeled Method:

2 cups loosely packed 1. Puree the ingredients in a small food processor
until a smooth paste is formed. (or, pound the garlic
fresh basil leaves and salt in a mortar and pestle, then start adding the
basil, pounding until pasty, and blend in the olive
(1 bunch) oil.)
½ cup extra virgin olive
2. serve immediately or, like pesto, cover with a thin
oil layer of olive oil and refrigerate for up to 5 days.
about ¼ teaspoon salt it will freeze successfully if done in small amounts.

flakes

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HINTS AND TIPS: * Pistou is associated with * Like many traditional

-------------------------- the French provincial soup recipes, there are many
similar to minestrone. The variations based on the area
* You will need—cutting pistou is served on the side where the raw ingredients are
or added to the individual sourced. Therefore it should
board, cook’s knife, cup bowl. come as no surprise that some
measure and food processor or recipes for pistou contain
mortar and pestle. * This is the most parmesan, nuts, tomato or
even ham—any of which
* Pistou is the French traditional and basic pistou would be considered correct
recipe; a common variation depending on which provincial
version of Italy’s pesto. has the addition of ½ cup cook you spoke to.
Therefore they are very grated parmesan cheese
similar in quantities and stirred in at the end. * See pesto for more tips on
usage. The main difference is
the French pistou does not how to use pistou.
have the nuts and parmesan
cheese included in the pesto.

32 The Basics: a really useful cookBook

Quince paste

Makes about 3 kg
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3 kg quinces method:
white sugar
150 ml lemon juice, 1. choose quince which are yellow with a slight green
tinge to them. this indicates that the quince is still
strained a little under-ripe which in turn means the pectin
3 cinnamon sticks levels are higher. Wash any ‘down’ from the surface of
the quinces and chop roughly—at this point there is
no need to peel or core the fruit. place the chopped
quinces in a saucepan with 750 ml water. Bring to the
boil, reduce heat and simmer until soft.

2. Drain off the excess water and pass the softened
fruit through a sieve. Weigh the quince puree then
place in a deep, heavy-based pot with an equal weight
of sugar. add the lemon juice and cinnamon sticks.

3. Use a long-handled wooden spoon to stir over
low heat, then increase the heat and boil until
the mixture turns pink and begins to thicken. as it
thickens, it is important to stir constantly so the
paste doesn’t catch on the base of the pot and burn.

4. once thick, pour the paste into sterilised jars or
containers. Leave to cool before covering. if properly
sealed in sterilised containers, quince paste will
last at least 1 year in a cool, dry area. once opened,
keep refrigerated.

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HINTS AND TIPS: alchemy-like cooking act that any cheese plate, especially
inspires many cooks. The suited to blue cheese and
-------------------------- raw quince has flesh as pale ripe brie.
as a ghost and is so hard
* You will need—cutting it verges on being inedible * Quince paste can be served
yet it is nothing short of
board, cook’s knife, weight a culinary miracle that it with roast pork or roast
and liquid measures, a long- transforms into a soft, ruby- turkey. Or make a sauce by
handled wooden spoon, lemon red, beautifully perfumed heating 4 tablespoons quince
juicer and a large heavy- food. paste, 4 tablespoons water,
based pot. 4 tablespoons port and the
* Quince paste is a zest of 1 orange, season
* A native fruit of Persia, with a small amount of salt,
delicious accompaniment to strain and serve on the side.
quince are said to be the
fruit of love. But it’s their

Dips anD accompaniments 33

SalSa verde

Makes about 2½ cups
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1½ tablespoons salted capers
1 cup flat-leaf or curly parsley leaves
1 cup mint leaves
1 cup basil leaves
3 garlic cloves, minced
6 anchovy fillets
1 cup olive oil
lemon juice
salt and pepper

Method:
1. Wash the capers and soak in fresh water for an
hour. Drain and squeeze dry in a tea towel.
2. in a food processor, blend the capers, herbs,
garlic and anchovies until combined. alternatively,
you can use a mortar and pestle and pound the
ingredients into a paste.
3. With the machine still running, gradually add the
olive oil.
4. When a thick paste forms, turn the machine off and
stir in the lemon juice.
5. season to taste, transfer to a jar or bowl and
cover with a layer of oil to seal; keep, covered, for
up to 7 days.

34 The Basics: a really useful cookBook

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HINTS AND TIPS:

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* You will need—cutting * Salted capers can be

board, bowls, sieve, cup substituted with pickled
measure, food processor or capers—which are more common
mortar and pestle and plastic in the supermarket. However,
spatula. salted capers are a far
better product compared to
* Salsa verde directly the more readily available,
spongy, pickled variety.
translates as ‘green sauce’.

* For a different version of * It is recommended to cover

this sauce, omit the capers the salsa with oil for longer
and anchovy fillets and add storage. Without the oil,
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard. the salsa will need to be
used within 2–3 days, after
* To make a ‘sweet and sour’ which the salsa will begin to
oxidise and lose flavour and
green sauce known as ‘Salsa pungency. The salsa can also
verde agrodolce’, add to the be frozen in ice cube trays;
basic recipe 4 tablespoons once frozen, place the cubes
lemon juice or red wine into a clip lock bag.
vinegar, 2 tablespoons
caster sugar and 2 slices * Drizzle some salsa verde
white bread with the crusts
removed. in minestrone.

* The herbs used in salsa * Serve with pasta as you

verde can vary according to would pesto pasta.
what you have fresh at hand.
Parsley is recommended in
all combinations with the
addition of 2 other fresh
green herbs, such as mint,
basil, sorrel, marjoram,
sage, tarragon, thyme,
watercress, chervil or
coriander to name a few.

* Salsa verde is served

with fish, seafood, chicken,
grilled and boiled meats,
and chargrilled or roasted
vegetables.

Dips anD accompaniments 35

Tapenade

Makes about 3 cups
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500 g kalamata olives, pitted (see Hints and tips)
100 g capers, rinsed
100 g anchovy fillets
200 ml olive oil
Method:
1. Place all the ingredients in a food processor and
blend until smooth. or chop and then pound in a mortar
and pestle, leaving the oil until last.
2. store, covered with a thin layer of oil, in a
sealed container in the refrigerator for up to 5 days.

36 The Basics: a really useful cookBook

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HINTS AND TIPS:

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* You will need—food * To sweeten and add body * Smear some tapenade mixed

processor or mortar and to the mixture, add 1 cup with equal parts ricotta
pestle, weight and liquid chopped dried figs. under the skin of a roast
measures, plastic spatula, chicken before baking in the
cook’s knife (optional) and * Try adding chopped leaves oven.
jar for storage.
from a sprig of thyme to the * Spread tapenade on round
* Pitting olives is as blended mixture.
croutons or bruschetta then
simple as squashing the * Mince or chop 1 garlic top with your favourite
olives either with your ingredients to serve as
fingers and removing the pit clove and add before blending a light lunch or dinner
or by placing the olive on a the mixture. starter.
cutting board and squashing
it with the base of a glass * In some recipes, the * Tapenade can be used on a
or bottle, then removing the
pit. addition of 100 ml dark rum pizza base rather than tomato
or brandy can replace 100 ml sauce.
olive oil.

* Tapenade can be made using w*ayA. little goes a long of * Serve tapenade as part of
Smear a thin layer
large green olives. Any style an antipasto plate.
of olive can be used, just
make sure that olives kept tapenade on a piece of bread,
in a brine are soaked for 30
minutes in cold water before taste and adjust the amount * Press out small rounds
using to remove the salty
flavour. However, don’t buy according to personal taste. of puff pastry with a 5-cm
pitted olives, especially the pastry cutter, brush with
Spanish variety; they will * Tapenade is often served tapenade, top with a slice of
not lend enough flavour and potato, sprinkle with dried
you will be disappointed. as an accompaniment or rosemary and flaked salt and
appetiser with chargrilled bake for 15 minutes at 180ºC.
* The capers should be flat bread or sourdough bread.

rinsed under cold water and * As a stir-through pasta * Add chilli to taste or
squeezed dry in the hand to of ½ lemon. You can
get rid of the briny taste. sauce, try adding an extra juice
clove of minced garlic and
* The addition of a cup of Italian tomato also add ¼ cup roasted
sauce (sugo casa) then stir
2 teaspoons seeded mustard into the cooked pasta before mushrooms or ¼ cup sundried
to the above recipe after topping with torn flat-leaf
blending is recommended. parsley leaves. tomatoes (finely chopped).

* 2 tablespoons balsamic * For an easy pasta sauce * Substitute black olives

vinegar can be added for add tapenade and tinned tuna for green olives and replace
extra kick in the tapenade. in olive oil to hot pasta. the anchovies with ¼ cup
Sprinkle with some fresh
oregano and finish with some ground almonds.
crumbled fetta cheese.
* Substitute the anchovies

with 50 g tinned tuna.

Dips anD accompaniments 37