AnaPerezPortfolio1

Do i care? An inves�ga�on on
how to promote a
more sustainable
way of consuming
fashion to young
consumers in the UK

Ana Perez

MA Design 2016/17
DESN5150 Dr M. Lonsdale PhD

Table abstract
of Content 3

overview
4

Reserach stucture
5

Reserach method
6

analysis & findings
7

Packaging development
8

garment label development
9

qr code link to landing page
10

landing page
11

reflection & conclusion
8

gallery
13

pictures
14-19

references
20

AB 3

stract

The structure in which the fashion industry
currently operates raises ques�ons of how
sustainable this will be for future genera�ons. This
research contributes to current impacts of the
fashion industry on the planet and its percep�on
by young consumers in the UK. With the rise of
consumer consump�on habits and technological
impacts there is thus a need for change in how
consumers consume, u�lise, care and dispose of
fashion.

The aim of this research is to open up a discussion
and find ways to communicate these issues to
young consumers in the UK. A combina�on of
qualita�ve methods was used to undertake this
research. Consumer scope studies, focus groups
and interviews were conducted ini�ally to iden�fy
the main themes rela�ng to fashion consump�on
and disposi�on. These were followed by a
collabora�ve workshop administered to young
consumers to endorse the qualita�ve findings and
to ascertain the extent of fashion consump�on and
the importance of labelling and packaging. The
study suggests ways of addressing this growing
problem offering opportuni�es to communicate to
young consumers and sugges�ng alterna�ve
strategies.

OVERVIEW RESEARCH FOCUS

AIM The purpose of this research is to establish the rela�onship between young
consumers and fashion sustainability in today’s retail environment. The
The aim of this project is to result of the study will make possible increased understanding of the factors
promote a more sustainable behind young consumer behaviour in rela�on to sustainable fashion. The
way of consuming fashion. findings will point to opportuni�es for challenging purchasing habits where
sustainable fashion is concerned.
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ORIGINALITY

Prior research efforts on ethical and sustainable fashion has been focused
on improving the supply chain and the promo�on of eco-materials and
ethical issues such as workers’ rights. Studies on adult’s ethical consumer
behaviours have equally been carried out in the past. However, this research
paper is a novel inves�ga�on and focuses on understanding the underlying
reasons, opinions and mo�va�ons of young consumers in the UK aged 16
to 28 years old.

CONTRIBUTION TO THE FIELD

The findings will point to opportuni�es for challenging purchasing habits
where sustainable fashion is concerned and open communica�on with
young consumers and suggest alterna�ve strategies for informa�ve
garment label design.

Illumina�ng Research structure
key issues

Content
analysis

Qualita�ve Focus Aim of the Design project:
data analysis groups
The applied design aim consists of crea�ng reusable packaging and develop a
Collabora�ve promo�onal product to visually engage young consumers on the impacts of fast fashion.
workshop

Interviews

Objectives:

Literature Review Primary Research Analysis & Findings Prototype Outcome

• To categorize young consumers’ Young consumers and Scope study • Ethical fashion is not a priority • Video for social
understanding of sustainable the percep�on of Focus group • A believe that ethical fashion is media campaign
fashion and ethical issues within sustainable fashion Collabora�ve- expensive and un-fashionable exaplining impacts
the tex�le industry workshop • Lack of knowledge on the impacts of fashion on the
of fashion on the planet from planet
• To iden�fy ways of educa�ng produc�on, usage to disposal
young consumers on the impact of
fast fashion on the planet

• To recognize young consumers Sustainability Desk reserach • Li�le evidence that ethical issues • QR code with link
purchasing behaviours and act on within the fashion Trade research would change consumer purchasing from garment to
these with relevant design industry Consumer reserach behaviour landing page to video
solu�ons • Some retailers have implemented to promote
Garment labelling Scope study transparency within their business transparency
• To create visual promo�onal Focus group
materials to engage young Desk reserach • Garment Labelling unclear • Label printed on
consumers on the impact that the Semi structured and inconsistent T-Shirt with clear
tex�le industry has on the planet Interviews • Campaign on ethical fashion needed instruc�ons
to make consumers aware of the • Clear swing tag with
impacts of fashion on the planet informa�ve facts
• Re-usable packaging
with QR link to video
and web link for promo

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R literature review primary reserach 1 6
e
s Fashion sustainability is a broad concept and the meaning of The research contained three phases; an ini�al exploratory scope
e its’ connota�ons is vast. The literature review will use study amongst two different groups of par�cipants. The first focus
a secondary research to emphasise and focus the research to group consisted of 6 par�cipants, 5 of which were female and one
r understand current issues. Firstly, an understanding of the male consumer aged between 25 to 63 years old. The second
c rela�onship of young consumers and fashion sustainability group of 8 par�cipants were aged 16 to 18 years old. This explora-
hm had to be established to appreciate current complexi�es tory nature of the research established the differences in a�tudes
young consumers face when purchasing fashion. The second and understanding towards sustainable fashion and subsequently
e sec�on will establish the impacts the fashion industry has on created an ini�al concept of the rela�onship young consumers
t the planet and iden�fy these areas to establish best ways of have with the acquisi�on, use, care and disposal of fashion.
h informing consumers. The third area iden�fies the barriers
o surrounding labelling and promo�onal materials when primary research 2
d purchasing fashion items. Current research has shown that
s consumers are increasingly more aware and interested in The second phase of the research was a collabora�ve workshop in
sustainable fashion, however there is a discrepancy between where 8 males and 8 female college students aged between 17
a�tude and actual behaviour. (Bray et al, 2011). Further and 19 years old par�cipated. The aim of the workshop was to
issues in regards to young consumers and their consump�on establish an understanding of how to be�er inform and possibly
habit of fast fashion is that those interested in trends and change the a�tude young consumers have towards fashion. In
fashion are less likely to be interested in sustainability or to addi�on to this the workshop objec�ve was to define and gener-
have ethical concerns (McNeill and Moore, 2015). ate design ideas for a product or promo�onal tools to communi-
cate and engage young consumers about the impacts of the fash-
Several academics have researched sustainability within the ion industry.
fashion industry and its impact on the planet, poin�ng out
different aspects of the problem. Nevertheless, they appear primary research 3
to be in general agreement when it comes to improving the
sustainable tex�le system. Authors like Easter 2007; Fletcher The third phase was a focus group followed on from the collabora-
2008; Dombek-Keith and Loker 2011 (in Garde� and Torres, �ve workshop directed to 6 college students aged 17 and 18 years
2013), suggest that it goes beyond the supply chain, indeed a old. The ques�ons were semi-structured allowing for an easy flow
further factor is the over use of water and of chemicals which of conversa�on to establish if the a�endees had indeed gained
create a pollu�ng issue in the tex�le industry. Some fashion any knowledge or understanding of the issues rela�ng to sustaina-
retailers are catching up on the ethical and sustainability ble fashion. Furthermore, the focus group helped shape the direc-
hype by becoming more transparent and have indeed started �on from the ini�al design concept to the final prototype out-
to offer Organic and Fairtrade op�ons. (Moore, 2014). come.
Nonetheless, consumers seem to remain oblivious to the
consequences of fast fashion and are not aware of some of
the ethical products on offer. A research commissioned by
DEFRA on the public understanding of sustainable clothing
found that there is a need for a clear and be�er labelling
system to provide consumers with industry informa�on such
as the source of the product especially when it concerns the
origin of co�on (DEFRA, 2008). Furthermore Niinimäki
(2015), states that for consumers to become involved in
sustainable ma�ers a clear and honest label is absolutely
vital.

Analysis & findings enviromree-unstedisposable

This study was carried out by carefully selec�ng par�cipants aged cheap fairtraid
between 16 to 28 years old. For the purposes of this research it was
vital that the par�cipants had limited knowledge of sustainable fashion slow fashion social responsability
to draw up a deeper understanding of the themes of the research
ques�on. The analysis was based on the collabora�ve workshop sustainable fashionpullu�ng industry affordable trends
outcome and the semi-structured interviews that followed. When the
par�cipants were ques�oned about the subject of sustainable fashion preexspeeencsriovveeefaattsltrhhteercfineyacacs�laephvleilooanrngeatnic
they were ini�ally unclear as to its defini�ons and meaning.
Furthermore, the par�cipants found that labels on garments were not 7
clear and most of them did not understand what the care instruc�ons
meant. The par�cipants also felt that sustainable fashion was a
premium product targeted at an older genera�on and therefore not
fashionable and relevant to them.

Having analysed the outcome from the workshop and focus group it
was vital to design a fashion item that was unisex and not trend led as
this would contradict the slow fashion ethos. As par�cipants
men�oned that they don’t necessarily understand or read care labels
when they purchase garments, the care label on the product was
printed on the back neck of the T-Shirt with clear instruc�ons. This
form of labelling the garment would allow consumers to follow the
washing instruc�ons much more easily and help promote the
sustainable message. To create a sense of communica�on with the
consumer, the product and the cause a QR code was created to
generate a link between these three steps. It was also vital that the QR
code worked to it’s full poten�al as some par�cipants men�oned that
at �mes QR codes on garments do not work and wash out easily. To
eliminate any packaging issues a Re-usable and Recyclable packaging
was designed to achieve a completely sustainable product. The
feedback from the par�cipants was posi�ve, however, as the research
is s�ll ongoing there are no conclusive findings. None the less
Indica�ons and trends show that there is a need for clear garment
labelling sta�ng not only how to care but also how to dispose of the
garment. Furthermore, the findings suggest that young consumers are
interested in sustainability and how to improve the environment,
however, there is a clear need for more informa�on on this subject.

Packaging development

DEsign development
material selection
laser cutter

8

Garment Label development

Screen printing
Design development
participatory reserach

9

QR Code link to landing page

qr CODE DEVELOPMENT
LINK TO LANDING PAGE
LINK TO VIDEO

10

landing page

The purpose of the landing page is to create a call to
ac�on, promote the product and create a link between
the product and the consumer and ul�mately raise
awareness. To access the landing page the product
contains a QR code as part of the labelling. The QR code
enables the consumer to have quick and easy access
and shows the product’s authen�city and a link to a
promo�onal video which can be shared with the wider
world. The design of the landing page is simple to help
the user to gain relevant informa�on in the shortest
period of �me.

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reflection & conclusion

The findings of this project reveal that young consumers are unaware The research findings show that there is a need for educa�ng and informing
of the impacts the fashion industry has on the planet. However, they consumers in par�cular the younger genera�on. However, the research had its
agree that there is a general lack of informa�on from the media and limita�ons, for instance the chosen consumer group were aged between 16 to 28
fashion retailers on the manufacturing consequences, care years old and therefore the findings cannot be generalised to other groups.
informa�on and the disposal of garments. The par�cipants also Furthermore, since the comple�on of the focus group some marke�ng campaigns
agreed that with today’s technology advances and the interest young on social media such as the “who made my clothes campaign” on Instagram
consumers have for social media there is great poten�al for fashion ins�gated by the Fashion Revolu�on (2017) to promote the issues with ethical
retailers to communicate directly with their consumers on issues such fashion and the designer Vivienne Westwood (2017) promo�ng for “Buy less
as the water consump�on used in manufacturing procedures and choose well” in London Fashion week 2017 might contribute to consumer
how to reduce CO2 emission in the a�ercare of garments. purchasing behaviours. Further poli�cal developments such as the American
Furthermore, most par�cipants agreed that a�er a�ending the President Trump removing the USA from the Paris climate agreement could have
collabora�ve workshop they would think twice about where they buy a an impact on how some consumers view sustainable fashion. However, further
their fashion items and although most of them pass on their used research will be needed to explore addi�onal ways to communicate with young
clothing to younger family members they agreed that they would consumers and develop a model that suggests how retailers can connect through
start looking at fashion from a different perspec�ve and perhaps buy garment labelling and informa�on design.
less to help the environment.

Image source: Fashion Revolu�on (2017) Image source: Vivienne Westwood (2017)

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gallery fig. 2. Re-usable Packaging fig. 3. garment label

fig. 1. Packaging

fig. 4. back neck t-shirt print fig. 5. label & t-shirt print fig. 6. front view of t-shirt

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P PACKAGING
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P rE-USABLE PACKAGING
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P gARMENT LABEL
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3

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P BACK NECK T-SHIRT PRINT
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4

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P Label & T-SHIRT PRINT
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5

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P front view of T-SHIRT
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5

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r

e
Bray, J., Johns, N. & Kilburn, D. 2011. An Exploratory Study into the Factors Impeding Ethical

f Consump�on. Journal of Business Ethics. 98(4), pp.597-608.
Fletcher, K. 2008. Sustainable Fashion and Tex�les: Design Journeys. London: Earthscan.

e Department for Environment Food and Rural Affairs (DEFRA). 2008. Sustainable clothing roadmap
briefing note. A research report completed for the Department for Environment, Food and Rural
Affairs by No�ngham Trent University and Sheffield Hallam University. London. Queen’s Printer

r Fashion Revolu�on, 2017. Who made my clothes. [Online]. [Accessed 22 June 2017]. Available from:
h�p://fashionrevolu�on.org/

Garde�, M.A. and Torres, A.L. 2013. Sustainability in Fashion Tex�les: Values, Design, Produc�on

e and Consump�on. Sheffield: Greenleaf
McNeil, L. and Moor, R. 2015. Sustainable fashion consump�on and the fast fashion conundrum:

n fashionable consumers and a�tudes to sustainability in clothing choice. Interna�onal Journal of
Consumer Studies. 39(3), pp. 212-222
Moore, S.B. 2014 How ethical are high street clothes? The Guardian. [Online]. [Accessed 22 June

c 2017]. Available from:

h�p://www.theguardian.com/sustainable-business/sustainable-fashion-blog/how-ethical-high-stre

et-clothes

e Niinimäki, K. 2015. Ethical founda�ons in sustainable fashion. Tex�le and Clothing Sustainability.
1(3), pp. 1-11

Vivienne Westwood in BBC, 2017. Vivienne Westwood gives her advice on new designers and

s fashion waste [Online]. [Accessed 22 June 2017]. Available from:
h�p://www.bbc.co.uk/newsbeat/ar�cle/40260489/vivienne-westwood-gives-her-advice-on-new-d
esigners-and-fashion-waste

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