7-51 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM ABS Circuit SPEEDOMETER 2 IGNITION SUPPLY W Y/Br G/L Y/L G/W PIN 2 CAN LOW PIN 11 PIN 12 BATTERY POSITIVE PIN 1 CAN HIGH PIN 10 COMMON GROUND W Y/Br G/L Y/L G/W SPEEDOMETER 1 IGNITION SUPPLY W Y/Br G/L Y/L G/W PIN 2 CAN LOW PIN 9 PIN 10 BATTERY POSITIVE PIN 1 CAN HIGH PIN 8 COMMON GROUND W Y/Br G/L Y/L G/W W W/B MAIN FUSE BOX F1 30A FUSE O/P FUSE I/P R W/B F2 7.5A WHEEL SPEED SENSOR FRONT L/Pi W/R B W WHEEL SPEED SENSOR REAR R/W L/O W B BR/L W/B VRLA BATTERY - 8Ah + R - B W/L R ABS BOX F1 15A R W/R F2 10A CAN INTERFACE B/Y Gr/G G/L Y/L F8 7.5A Y/Br Br/L PUMP MOTOR IGNITION SWITCH SUPPLY FRONT WHEEL SPEED SENSOR I/P REAR WHEEL SPEED SENSOR SUPPLY ECU EARTH SOLENOID VALVE CAN LOW CAN HIGH FRONT WHEEL SPEED SENSOR SUPPLY REAR WHEEL SPEED SENSOR I/P 16 14 11 10 9 8 4 3 2 1 W/R Gr/G L/Pi R/W B/Y W/L Y/L G/L W/R L/O B/Y ABS ABS EARTH F9 Gr/G 7.5A Br/L IGNITION SWITCH W ON OFF Br
7-52 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM Lighting CircuitBr/W R/W R/W L/G MAIN RELAY SPEEDOMETER 2 SPEEDOMETER 1 IGNITION SUPPLY Br Gr/Pi PIN 1 KILL SWITCH SUPPLY PIN 3 Br Y/Br G/W GROUND PIN 5 G/W VRLA BATTERY - 8Ah + R - B IGNITION SWITCH W BR/L W/B ON OFF Br MAIN FUSE BOX F1 F7 7.5A 30A FUSE O/P FUSE I/P R Br/L W/B Gr/R KILL SWITCH Gr/Pi G/W PIN 19 GROUND PIN 20 Y/Br G/W HEAD LAMP ASSEMBLY IGNITION SWITCH ENGINE RPM B/V B/Y B/V F6 15A Br/L Br F8 Y/Br 7.5A Br/L Br GND R/B R/Y R HIGH BEAM INDICATION KILL SWITCH INPUT Gr/Pi V Gr/Pi R R/B R/Y L/B B/Y Br ECU Ignition Keys Power Ground 2 Gr/Pi B/Y 33 23 1 1 HI / LO SWITCH LO HI LED Br R/Y Y/L R/B Br/W PASS SWITCH CONTROL SWITCH LH L/B Y/Br CONTROL SWITCH RH G r/R B r/L ON OFF G r/P i G r/R B r/W B /Y KILL SWITCH LIGHT SWITCHON PO B /Y LED CONTROL Y /L V Y /L B r B r/W NUMBER PLATE LAMP Br B/Y Br B/Y B/Y R B/Y Br TAIL LAMP HB LB 7 Engine Speed O/P HIGH BEAM PIN 4 R R B/V ENGINE RPM I/P PIN 12 BATTERY PIN 10 W B W B/V Power Supply After Main Relay 25 11 Main Relay Driver L/G Br/W F3 R/W 15A W/B
7-53 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM Gear Indication Circuit KILL SWITCH (CONTROL SWITCH RH) G r/R B r/L ON OFF G r/P i G r/R W W/B F1 30A FUSE O/P FUSE I/P R W/B F2 7.5A VRLA BATTERY - 8Ah + R - B F8 7.5A Y/Br Br/L W Y/Br L/W R Y PIN 1 PIN 2 W Y/Br W Y/Br G/W PIN 1 PIN 2 PIN 10 W Y/Br G/W BR/L W/B TERMINATION UNIT Gr/Pi L/G MAIN FUSE BOX SPEEDOMETER 2 IGNITION SUPPLY BATTERY POSITIVE COMMON GROUND SPEEDOMETER 1 IGNITION SUPPLY BATTERY POSITIVE COMMON GROUND IGNITION SWITCH W ON OFF Br B W G Y L/W R LG 5 4 3 2 6 1 N GEAR INDICATOR SWITCH GEAR 1 GEAR 2 GEAR 3 GEAR 4 GEAR 5 GEAR 6 G W B G/W PIN 4 PIN 5 PIN 6 PIN 7 PIN 8 PIN 9 PIN 12 L/W R Y G W B G/W ECU Neutral Switch Ignition Key Gr/Pi 33 22 LG Power Ground 2 B/Y 23 F7 Gr/R 7.5A Br/L Power Ground 1 B/Y 1
7-54 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM USB Circuit
Chapter 8 Appendix Table of Contents Additional Considerations For Racing ............. 8-2 Troubleshooting Guide .................................... 8-5 Nut, Bolt And Fastener Tightness .................... 8-9 General Lubrication ......................................... 8-10 Unit Conversion Table ...................................... 8-11 8
8-2 APPENDIX Additional Considerations for Racing The spark plug ignites the fuel and air mixture in the combustion chamber. To do this effectively and at the proper time, the correct spark plug must be used and the spark plug must be kept clean and the gap adjusted. Tests have shown the plug listed in the “General Information” chapter to be the best plug for general use. Since spark plug requirements change with the ignition and carburation adjustments and with riding conditions, whether or not a spark plug of the correct heat range is used should be determined by removing and inspecting the plug. When a plug of the correct heat range is being used, the electrodes will stay hot enough to keep all the carbon burned off, but cool enough to keep from damaging the engine and the plug itself. This temperature is about 400 ~ 800°C (750 ~ 1,450°F) and can be judged by noting the condition and colour of the ceramic insulator around the centre electrode. If the ceramic is clean and of a light brown colour, the plug is operating at the right temperature. A spark plug for higher operating temperature is used for racing. Such a plug is designed for better cooling efficiency so that it will not overheat and thus is often called a ‘colder’ plug. If a spark plug with too high a heat range is used - that is a ‘cold’ plug that cools itself too well - the plug will stay too cool to burn off the carbon and the carbon will be collected on the electrodes and the ceramic insulator. This motorcycle has been manufactured for use in a reasonable and as a vehicle only. However, some may wish to subject this motorcycle to abnormal operation, such as would be experienced under racing conditions. Modenas strongly recommends that all riders side safely and obey all laws and regulations concerning their motorcycle and its operation. Racing should be done under supervised conditions and recognized sanctioning bodies should be contacted for further details. For those who desire to participate in competitive racing or related use, the following technical information mat prove useful. However, please note the following important points : • You are entirely responsible for the use of motorcycle under abnormal conditions such as racing and MODENAS shall not be liable for any damages that might arise from such use. • MODENAS Motorcycle Warranty specifically excludes motorcycle which are used in competitive or related uses. Please read the warranty carefully. • Motorcycle racing is a very sophisticated sport, subject to many variables. The following information is theoretical only and Modenas shall not be liable for any damages that might arise from alterations utilizing this information. • When the motorcycle is operated on public roads, it must be in its original state in order to ensure safety and compliance with appliance regulations. Terminal [A] Insulator [B] Cement [C] Gasket [D] Centre Electrode [E] Gap [ F] Reach [G] Side Electrode [H] Spark Plug
8-3 APPENDIX Additional Considerations For Racing Spark Plug Condition Normal Operation Oil Fouling Carbon Fouling Overheating The carbon the electrodes conducts electricity and can short the centre electrode to ground by either coating the ceramic insulator or bridging across the gap. Such a short will prevent an effective spark. Carbon build-up on the plug can also cause other troubles. It can heat up red-hot and cause pre-ignition and knocking, which may eventually burn a hole in the top of the piston. Spark Plug Inspection • Remove the spark plug and inspect the ceramic insulator. • Whether or not the right temperature plug is being used can be ascertained by noting the condition of the ceramic insulator around the electrode. A light brown colour indicates the correct plug is being used. If the ceramic is black, it indicates that the plug is firing at too low a temperature, so the next hotter type should be used instead. If the ceramic is white, the plug is operating at too high a temperature and it should be replaced with the next colder type. CAUTION If the spark plug is replaced with a type other than the standard plug, make certain the replacement plug has the same thread pitch and reach (length of threaded portion) and the same insulator type (regular type or projected type) as the standard plug. If the plug reach is too short, carbon will build up on the plug hole threads in the cylinder head, causing overheating, pre ignition and possibly burning a hole in the piston top. In addition, it may be impossible to remove the plug without damaging the cylinder head.
8-4 APPENDIX Additional Considerations For Racing NOTE The heat range of the spark plug functions like a thermostat for engine. Using the wrong type of spark plug can make the engine run too hot (resulting in engine damage) or too cold (with poor performance, misfiring and stalling). The standard plug has been selected to match the normal usage of motorcycle is combined street and highway riding. Unusual riding conditions may require a different spark plug heat range. For racing, install the colder plug. Too Short Correct Reach Carbon Builds Up Here
8-5 APPENDIX Troubleshooting Guide Engine Doesn’t Start, Starting Difficulty ; Starter motor not rotating Starter motor defective Battery voltage low Relay not contacting or operating Starter button not contacting Wiring open or shorted Ignition switch defective Engine stop switch defective Engine stop switch off Fuse blown Starter motor rotating but engine doesn't turn over Starter motor clutch defective Engine won’t turn over Valve seizure Cylinder, piston seizure Crankshaft seizure Connecting rod small end seizure Connecting rod big end seizure Camshaft seizure Transmission gear or crankcase bearing seizure Kickstarter return spring broken Kick ratchet gear not engaging No fuel flow No fuel in tank Sticking of the valve in the fuel tap Fuel tap vacuum hose clogged Fuel tap air vent obstructed Fuel tap clogged Fuel line clogged Float valve clogged Engine flooded Fuel level too high Float valve worn or stuck open Starting technique faulty (when flooded, crank the engine with the throttle fully opened to allow more air to reach the engine) No spark, spark weak Ignition switch not on Engine stop switch turned off Spark plug dirty, damaged or mal adjusted Spark plug cap or high tension wiring damaged Spark plug cap shorted or not in good contact Ignition coil damaged Exciter coil damaged ECU unit broken Flywheel magneto damaged Ignition or engine stop switch shorted Wiring shorted or open Fuel / air mixture incorrect Idle adjusting screw mal adjusted Air passage clogged Air cleaner clogged, poorly sealed or missing Air cleaner duct loose Compression low Cylinder, piston worn Piston ring bad (worn, weak, broken or sticking) Piston ring / land clearance excessive Cylinder head gasket Cylinder head not sufficiently tightened down Cylinder head warped Spark plug loose No valve clearance Valve spring broken or weak Valve not seating properly (valve bent, worn or carbon accumulation on the seating surface) Poor Running at Low Speed ; Spark weak Spark plug dirty, damaged or mal adjusted Spark plug cap or high tension wiring damaged Spark plug cap shorted or not in good contact Spark plug incorrect Pickup coil trouble Ignition coil damaged ECU unit broken Flywheel magneto damaged Fuel / air mixture incorrect Idle adjusting screw mal adjusted Air passage clogged Air cleaner clogged, poorly sealed or missing Air cleaner duct loose Choke valve closed Float level too high or too low Fuel tank air vent obstructed Throttle body holder loose Compression low Cylinder, Piston worn Piston rings bad (worn, weak, broken or sticking) Piston ring / land clearance excessive Cylinder head gasket Cylinder head not sufficiently tightened down Cylinder head warped No valve clearance Spark plug loose Valve spring broken or weak Valve not seating properly (Valve bent, worn or carbon accumulation on the seating surface) This is not an exhaustive list, giving every possible cause for each problem listed. It is meant simply as a rough guide to assist the troubleshooting for some of the common difficulties. NOTE
8-6 APPENDIX Troubleshooting Guide Crankshaft oil seal deteriorated or damaged Reed valve damaged Other Throttle valve doesn’t slide smoothly Engine oil viscosity too high Brake dragging Poor Running, No Power at High Speed ; Firing incorrect Spark plug dirty, damaged or maladjusted Spark plug cap or high tension wiring damaged Spark plug cap shorted or not in good contract Spark plug incorrect Ignition coil trouble Pickup coil trouble Exciter coil shorted or open ECU unit trouble Fuel/air mixture incorrect Fuel level too high or too low Air passage clogged Air cleaner clogged, poorly sealed or missing Air cleaner duct poorly sealed Throttle body holder loose Fuel to carburetor insufficient Water or foreign matter in fuel Fuel tank air vent obstructed Fuel line clogged Fuel tap clogged Air cleaner duct loose Compression low Cylinder, piston worn Piston rings bad (worn, weak, broken or sticking) Piston ring / land clearance excessive Cylinder head gasket Cylinder head not sufficiently tightened down Cylinder head warped No valve clearance Spark plug loose Valve not seating properly (Valve bent, worn or carbon accumulation on the seating surface) Knocking Carbon built up in combustion chamber Fuel poor quality or incorrect Spark plug incorrect Miscellaneous Float level too high or too low Throttle valve does not fully open Air cleaner clogged Overheating Engine oil level too high Engine oil viscosity too high Crankshaft bearing worn or damaged Water or foreign matter in fuel Brake dragging Clutch slipping Overheating ; Firing incorrect Spark plug dirty, broken or maladjusted Spark plug incorrect ECU unit trouble Fuel / air mixture incorrect Fuel level too low Throttle body holder loose Air cleaner clogged Air cleaner poorly sealed or missing Air cleaner duct loose Compression high Carbon built up in combustion chamber Engine load faulty Clutch slipping Engine oil level too high Engine oil viscosity too high Brakes dragging Lubrication inadequate Engine oil level too low Engine oil poor quality or incorrect Clutch Operation Faulty ; Clutch slipping No clutch release play Friction plate worn or warped Steel plate worn or warped Clutch spring or weak Clutch release mal adjusted Clutch release mechanism trouble Clutch hub or housing unevenly worn Clutch not disengaging properly Clutch release play excessive Clutch plate warped or too rough Clutch spring tension uneven Engine oil deteriorated Engine oil level too high Engine oil viscosity too high Clutch housing frozen on drive shaft Clutch release mechanism trouble
8-7 APPENDIX Troubleshooting Guide Gear stuck on the shaft Shift return spring weak or broken Shift pawl spring broken Shift return spring pin loose Gear set level binding on pivot bolt External shift mechanical arm worn Shift drum damaged Jumps out of gear Shift fork worn Gear groove worn Gear dogs, holes, and or recesses worn Shift drum groove worn Shift drum set lever spring weak or broken Shift fork guide pin worn Shift pawl spring weak or broken Drive shaft, output shaft and or gear splines worn Overshifts Shift drum set lever spring weak or broken Shift pawl spring weak or broken Abnormal Engine Noise ; Knocking Carbon built up in combustion chamber Fuel poor quality or incorrect Overheating Spark plug incorrect Piston slap Cylinder / Piston clearance excessive Cylinder, piston worn Connecting rod bent Piston pin, piston holes worn Valve noise Valve clearance incorrect Valve spring broken or weak Camshaft journals worn Other noise Connecting rod small end clearance excessive Connecting rod big end clearance excessive Piston ring worn, broken or stuck Piston seizure or damaged Cylinder head gasket leaking Exhaust pipe leaking at cylinder head connection Crankshaft runout excessive Engine mount loose Crankshaft bearing worn Camshaft chain tensioner trouble Camshaft chain, sprocket, guides worn Loose magneto flywheel Abnormal Drive Train Noise ; Clutch noise Clutch housing or hub damaged Drive chain noise Drive chain adjusted improperly Chain worn Rear and or engine sprocket(s) worn Chain lubrication insufficient Rear wheel misalign Abnormal Frame Noise ; Front fork noise Oil insufficient or too thin Spring weak or broken Rear shock absorber noise Shock absorberdamaged Brake noise Brake pad over worn or worn unevenly Disc worn unevenly or scored Exhaust Smoke Excessively ; White smoke Piston oil ring worn Cylinder worn Valve oil seal damaged Valve guide worn engine Oil level too high Black smoke Air cleaner clogged Main jet too large or fallen off Choke valve closed Float level too high Brown Smoke Fuel level too low Air cleaner duct loose Air cleaner poorly sealed or missing Clutch housing / friction plate clearance excessive Clutch housing gear / primary gear backlash excessive Transmission noise Crankcase bearing worn Metal chip jammed in gear teeth Transmission gears worn or chipped Engine oil insufficient or too thin Kick ratchet gear not properly disengaging from kick gear Kick idle gear worn or chipped Other Noise Bracket, nut bolt etc. not properly mounted or tightened
8-8 APPENDIX Troubleshooting Guide Handling and or Stability Unsatisfactory ; Handle bar hard to turn Steering stem locknut too tight Steering stem bearing damaged Race(s) dented or worn Steering stem lubrication inadequate Steering stem bent Tire air pressure too low Handle bar shakes or excessively vibrates Tire worn Swing arm bushing damaged Rim warped Spokes loose Front, rear axle runout excessive Wheel bearing worn Handle bar clamp bolt loose Steering stem head bolt and or handle bar bracket bolt loose Handle bar pulls to one side Frame bent Wheel misalignment Swing arm bent or twisted Swing arm pivot shaft runout excessive Steering stem bent Front fork leg bent Right / left front fork oil level uneven Rear shock absorber and or swing arm bent Shock absorption unsatisfactory (Too hard) Front fork oil excessive Front fork oil viscosity too high Front fork bent Front fork bent Tire air pressure too high (Too soft) Front fork oil insufficient and/or leaking Front fork oil viscosity too low Front fork, rear shock absorber spring(s) weak Front fork oil leaking Rear shock absorber oil leaking Tire air pressure too low Battery Discharged ; Battery faulty (e.g. plates sulphated, shorted through sedimentation, electrolyte level too low) Battery lead making poor contact Regulator / rectifier trouble Ignition switch damaged Load excessive (e.g. bulb of excessive watt age) Flywheel magneto damaged Stator coil open or short Wiring faulty Battery Overcharged ; Regulator / Rectifier trouble Battery trouble Brakes Don’t Hold ; Air in the brake line Pad or disc worn Brake fluid leakage Disc warped Contaminated pad Brake fluid deteriorated Primary or secondary cup damaged in master cylinder
8-9 APPENDIX Nut, Bolt and Fastener Tightness Tightness Inspection • Check the tightness of bolts and nuts listed here. • Also check to see that each cotter pin is in place and in good condition. If there are loose fasteners, re-torque them to the specified torque following the specified tightening sequence. Refer to the appropriate chapter for torque specifications. If torque specifications are not in the appropriate chapter, see the Standard Torque Table. For each fastener, first loosen it by ½ turn, then tighten it. If cotter pins are damaged, replace them with new ones. • Final Drive : Chain Adjuster Locknuts Rear Sprocket Nuts Nut, Bolt And Fastener To Be Checked • Wheels : Spoke Nipples Front Axle Nut CotterPin Front Axle Nut Rear Axle Nut CotterPin Rear Axle Nut • Brake : Front Brake Adjust Nut Rear Brake Adjust Nut Brake Lever Pivot Nut Brake Rod Joint Cotter Pin • Suspension : Front Fork Clamp Bolts Swing Arm Pivot Shaft Nut Rear Shock Absorber Mounting Bolts and Nuts • Steering : Chain Adjuster Locknuts Handle bar Clamp Bolts • Engine : Engine Mounting Bolts and Nuts Cylinder Head Bolts and Nuts Shift Pedal Bolts Exhaust Pipe Holder Nuts Muffler Bolt and Nut • Other : Side Stand Nut Foot peg Mounting Bolts Center Stand Cotter Pin For the engine fasteners, check the tightness of when the engine is cold (at room temperature). NOTE
8-10 APPENDIX General Lubrication Whenever the vehicle has been operated under wet or rainy conditions or especially after using a high pressure water spray, perform the general lubrication. NOTE Lubrication • Before lubricating each part, clean off any rusty spots with rust remover and wipe off any grease, oil dirt or grime. • Lubrication the points listed below with indicated lubricant. Chain : Lubricate with Heavy Oil Pivots : Lubricate with Engine Oil Side Stand Centre Stand Brake Lever Brake Pedal Brake Rod Joint Kick Pedal Rear Foot Pegs Cables : Lubricate with Rust Inhibitor Choke Cables Throttle Cable Front Brake Cable Pressure Cable Luber : K56019 - 021 [A] Aerosol Cable Lubricant [B] Points : Lubricate with Grease Choke Cable Lower End [A] Speedometer Gear Housing and Inner Cable Lower End. Grease the lower part of the inner cable sparingly. • With the cable disconnected at the both ends, the cable should move freely [A] within the cable housing. If cable movement is not free after lubricating, if the cable is frayed or if the cable housing is kinked, replace the cable.
Units of Temperature: 8-11 APPENDIX Unit Conversion Table Units of Mass: kg x 2.205 = lb g x 0.03527 = oz Units of Volume: L x 0.2642 = gal (US) L x 0.2200 = gal (imp) L x 1.057 = qt (US) L x 0.8799 = qt (imp) L x 2.113 = pint (US) L x 1.816 = pint (imp) mL x 0.03381 = oz (US) mL x 0.02816 = oz (imp) mL x 0.06102 = cu in Units of Force: N x 0.1020 = kg N x 0.2248 = lb kg x 9.807 = N kg x 2.205 = lb kPa x 0.01020 = kg/cm² kPa x 0.1450 = psi kPa x 0.7501 = cm Hg kg/cm² x 98.07 = kPa kg/cm² x 14.22 = psi Units of Length: km x 0.6214 = mile m x 3.281 = ft mm x 0.03937 = in Units of Torque: N-m x 0.1020 = kg-m N-m x 0.7376 = ft-lb N-m x 8.851 = in-lb kg-m x 9.807 = N-m kg-m x 7.233 = ft-lb kg-m x 86.80 = in-lb Units of Speed: km/h x 0.6214 Units of Power: = mph kW x 1.360 = PS kW x 1.341 = HP PS x 0.7355 = kW PS x 0.9863 = HP Units of Pressure: 9 ( °C + 40 ) - 40 = °F 9 5 ( °F + 40 ) - 40 = °C 5 Prefix Symbol Power mega M x 1000 000 kilo k x 1000 centi c x 0.01 mili m x 0.001 micro μ x 0.000 001 Prefixes for Units :