offer easy access to the takes you past long fields of 3 Homestead/ 2 The Everglades
Everglades, Anhinga Trail marsh prairie, white, skeletal Florida City
and Gumbo-Limbo Trail. forests of bald cypress and dark
clumps of mahogany hammock. Every good road trip
Heading further into The Flamingo Visitor Center is needs a kooky tourist
the park, several trails 34 miles south of Royal Palm. attraction, and thus
and scenic viewpoints Homestead – in addition
give you a closer look TRIP HIGHLIGHT to being a good base
at the park, including of operations for the
Pa-hay-okee Overlook, 2 Flamingo southeastern portion of
a raised platform that the Everglades – humbly
peeks over one of the You’ve come this far, offers up the Coral
prettiest bends in the and for your efforts Castle (%305-248-6345;
river of grass, and West you’re rewarded with the www.coralcastle.com; 28655
Lake Trail, which runs opportunity to canoe into S Dixie Hwy; adult/child
through the largest the bracken heart of the $15/7; h8am-6pm Sun-Thu,
protected mangrove swamp. Hit the Flamingo to 8pm Fri & Sat), which
forest in the Northern Visitor Center (%239- isn’t a castle at all but
Hemisphere. 695-2945; h8am-4:30pm) a monument to both
for a map of local canoe unrequited love and all
The Drive » Continue trails, such as Nine Mile that is weird and wacky
Pond, a 5.5-mile loop that about southern Florida.
southwest on SR 9336, which leads you into Florida
Bay. You can rent canoes In the early 20th
FG1 and kayaks at Flamingo century, a Latvian man
Marina (%239-695-3101; who had been left at the
[Ù27 ]ÛI-95 hstore hours 7am-5:30pm altar channeled his grief
Ù[41 Mon-Fri, from 6am Sat & Sun), into building a sculpture
#] and be transported to garden out of more than
various trailheads for an 1000 tons of coral rock.
Miami additional fee. That he did it by himself,
in the dead of night, with
Ù[1 4 p53 no one there to see how
he pulled it off, imbues
BisBcaayyne The Drive » Head back the the place with a sense
of mystery. At the very
way you came in; it’s the only least, it’s a nifty feat of
way out. Six miles past Ernest engineering.
Coe Visitor Center, go north on
Tower Rd. You’ll pass Robert is 5 4 p53
Here and then Homestead is just
a few miles farther up.
ß`821
Homestead LINK
Homestead/ YOUR
3##\ Florida City TRIP
#\ Biscayne 1 Highway 1
National After driving down
Florida the Florida coast, start this
Park Everglades trip just one
City hour southwest of Miami.
[Ù1 4 Doing
Disney & More
Key
Largo Drive 1.5 hours north to
Sanibel Island to pick up the
end of this trip, then drive it
in reverse order.
49
WITOLD SKRYPCZAK / GETTY IMAGES © CREDIT/LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©
2 The Everglades
The Drive » Head 20 miles two-hour tram tour out-of-place concrete
(%305-221-8455; www structure that offers a
due north on FL 997/177th dramatic panorama of
Ave until you hit the Tamiami .sharkvalleytramtours.com; the park.
Trail, aka US 41. Shark Valley adult/child $20/12.75) that
is 18 miles west. Look out for follows a 15-mile asphalt The Drive » Exiting the park,
alligators in the canal that runs trail where you’ll see
alongside the road. many alligators during turn left onto Tamiami Trail, then
winter. immediately turn back off again.
TRIP HIGHLIGHT The Miccosukee Village is just
Not only do you get past the park entrance.
4 Shark Valley to experience the park
from the shady comfort 5 Miccosukee
Alligators, alligators of a breezy tram, but Village
and more alligators! the tour is narrated by
If that’s what you’ve knowledgeable park Not so much a quaint
come to find, you won’t rangers who give a little Native American
be disappointed at fascinating overview of village as it is a handful
Shark Valley (%305-221- the Everglades and its of commercial ventures,
8776; www.nps.gov/ever/ inhabitants. Halfway the Miccosukee Village
planyourvisit/svdirections.htm; along the trail the tour nonetheless offers insight
36000 SW 8th St; car/cyclist stops long enough to let into Native American life
$10/5; h9:15am-5:15pm). you climb a 50ft-high in the Everglades. The
Kick back and enjoy the observation tower, an centerpiece of the village
view during an excellent
50
Everglades National Park Pa-hay-okee boardwalk
is the Miccosukee Indian invited to have their (%941-695-2428; www
Museum (www.miccosukee picture taken holding a .clydebutcher.com; 52388
.com; MM 70 Hwy 41; adult/ wee gator. Tamiami Trail; h10am-
5pm), featuring the
child/5yr and under $10/6/ Across the road, stunning, black-and-
free; h9am-5pm), just half catch an airboat ride white photography
a mile down the road that includes a stop at a of Clyde Butcher. The
from Shark Valley. Miccosukee camp that’s photographer has been
more than 100 years old. capturing the essence of
Informative and the Everglades for over
entertaining, this open- The Drive » Continuing west 40 years, and there’s
air museum showcases something about seeing
the culture of the on Tamiami Trail, you’ll pass his large-scale prints –
Miccosukee via guided trees, trees and more trees. some of which are taller
tours of traditional After about 20 minutes you’ll than you are – that
homes, a crafts gift see Big Cypress Gallery on will make you see the
store, dance and music your left. Everglades in a whole
performances, and new way.
live alligator shows in 6 Big Cypress
which a tribal member Gallery The Drive » The Oasis Visitor
earns oohs and aahs
by provoking a gator If you’re torn as to the Center is on the right, less than
and not getting eaten. relative beauty of the a mile west of Big Cypress
Afterwards, visitors are Everglades, stop by the Gallery.
Big Cypress Gallery
51
2 The Everglades LOCAL KNOWLEDGE: Ochopee is also home
KAYAKING IN to the Smallest Post
FLAMINGO Office in the United
States, a comically tiny
I always look forward to heading down to Flamingo edifice with very limited
and getting in a kayak. It’s only two hours from Miami hours (you try sitting in
city, but it’s a world away. It’s so soulful and relaxed. there for more than a
If you paddle into the bay, you’ll often bump into few hours a day). It’s a
something – whether a stingray, a shark or a flock of fun photo op, and a great
wading birds. Very lucky visitors might see manatees place to mail a postcard.
or, if they really go out of their way, a flamingo.
5 p53
Greg Litten, Everglades National Park ranger The Drive » Just over 4 miles
7 Big Cypress TRIP HIGHLIGHT west of the post office, turn left
Preserve onto CR-29 and go 3 more miles
8 Ochopee to reach the not-so-booming
North of the Tamiami town of Everglades City.
Trail you’ll find In tiny Ochopee, you’ll
this enormous find the Skunk Ape 9 Everglades City
undeveloped preserve
that’s integral to the Research Headquarters One of the best ways to
Everglades’ ecosystem. (%239-695-2275; www experience the serenity
Encompassing 1139 sq .skunkape.info; 40904 Tamiami of the Everglades is by
miles, it is indeed big, so Trail E; animal exhibit adult/ paddling the network of
where to start? Orient child $5/3; h8am-6pm, waterways that skirt the
yourself at the Oasis animal exhibit to 5pm), a northwest part of the
Visitor Center (%941- tongue-in-cheek endeavor park. Desolate yet lush,
695-1201; h8am-4:30pm dedicated to finding the Ten Thousand Islands
Mon-Fri). In addition to the southeastern USA’s consist of many (but not
trail maps you’ll find version of Bigfoot. The really 10,000) tiny islands
great exhibits for the kids gift shop stocks all your and a mangrove swamp.
and an outdoor, water- skunk-ape necessities,
filled ditch popular with and there’s even a Most islands are
alligators. reptile and bird zoo fringed by beaches with
in back run by a true sugar-white sand, but
Further down Tamiami Florida eccentric, the the water is brackish,
Trail, but still part of the sort of guy who wraps and very shallow most of
preserve, you’ll find the albino pythons around the time. It’s not Tahiti,
Kirby Storter Boardwalk, his neck for fun. While but it’s fascinating. The
a 1-mile elevated stroll you’re there, look into Wilderness Waterway,
through a mature cypress a 99-mile path between
dome replete with Everglades Adventure Everglades City and
orchids, bromeliads, and Tours (EAT; %800-504-6554; Flamingo, is the longest
the possibility of wildlife www.evergladesadventuretours. canoe trail in the area.
that makes you glad it’s com; tours from $79, rentals Look for canoe rentals
elevated. from $60), offering some and guided boat trips at
of the best private the Gulf Coast Visitor
The Drive » Keep going: your tours of the Everglades Center (%239-695-3311;
we’ve found, and led by 815 Oyster Bar Lane; h9am-
next stop is 16 miles west of the some genuinely funny 4:30pm mid-Apr–mid-Nov, 8am-
Oasis Visitor Center (and 8 miles guys with great local 4:30pm mid-Nov–mid-Apr).
past Kirby Storter Boardwalk). knowledge.
5 4 p53
52
Eating & Sleeping
Flamingo 2 Ochopee 8
4 Flamingo Campground $ 5 Joannie’s Blue Crab Café American $
Campground (joaniesbluecrabcafe.com; Tamiami Trail; mains
$9-17; h9am-5pm) This colorful shack east of
(%877-444-6777; www.recreation.gov; tent/RV Ochopee has open rafters, shellacked picnic
tables and alligator kitsch, and serves delicious
site $16/30) There are 278 camp sites, some food of the ‘fried everything’ variety on paper
plates.
with views of Florida Bay. Get even farther 2 The Everglades
Everglades City 9
away from it all with backcountry camping;
choose between ground sites, beach sites and
elevated camping platforms ($10 plus $2 per
person).
Homestead/Florida City 3 5 Oyster House Restaurant Seafood $$
5 Robert is Here Market $ (%239-695-2073; www.oysterhouserestaurant.
com; Chokoloksee Causeway, Hwy 29 S,
(www.robertishere.com; 19200 SW 344th Everglades City; mains $10-27; h11am-9pm
Mon-Thu, to 10pm Fri-Sun; #) Pop open a cold
St, Homestead; h8am-7pm Nov-Aug) By all beer at the raw bar overlooking the marina or
grab a table inside the Oyster House Restaurant
means stop at Robert is Here for a milkshake. for conch fritters, steamed shrimp and fried
grouper.
This roadside fruit stand is Old Florida at its
kitschy best. There’s a petting zoo for the kids,
live music at night and plenty of homemade
preserves and sauces. 5 Seafood Depot Seafood $
5 White Lion Cafe American $$ (102 Collier Ave; mains $6-20; h10:30am-9pm)
(%305-248-1076; www.whitelioncafe.com; 146 Don’t totally sublimate your desire for fried
NW 7th St; mains $7-22; h11am-3pm Mon-Sat, food, because the gator tail and frog’s legs here
from 5pm Tue-Sat) Not just a restaurant but a offer an excellent way to honor the inhabitants
bit of a social center as well, the always-lively of the Everglades: douse them in Tabasco and
White Lion Cafe has BBQs, patio parties and devour them.
karaoke. The diverse menu includes a $200 4 Everglades City Motel Motel $
peanut-butter-jelly sandwich served with a (%800-695-8353, 239-695-4244; www.
complimentary bottle of Dom Perignon. evergladescitymotel.com; 310 Collier Ave; r from
4 Everglades Hostel $ $80; aWc) Large renovated rooms have
International Hostel flat-screen TVs, arctic air-conditioning and a
(%305-248-1122, 800-372-3874; www. fantastically friendly staff that will hook you up
evergladeshostel.com; 20 SW 2nd Ave, Florida with whatever tours your heart desires at this
City; camping $18, dm $28, d $61-75, ste $125- exceptionally good-value lodge.
225; paWs) Located in a cluttered, comfy 4 Ivey House B&B $$
1930s boarding house, this friendly hostel has (%239-695-3299; www.iveyhouse.com; 107
good-value dorms, private rooms and ‘semi- Camellia St, Everglades City; r $99-179; #) A
privates’ with shared baths, and its back yard is beautifully renovated 1920s lodge with Old
a serious garden of earthly delights. Florida atmosphere offers spick-and-span
rooms and a hideaway cottage.
53
Weeki Wachee Springs Its famous
mermaids on show since 1947
IMAGES-USA / ALAMY © North Florida
Backwaters &
3Byways
Emerald Coast, Redneck Riviera...call it what you will, but
Florida’s Gulf Coast beaches are dazzling, and inland you’ll
find interesting towns to give you a warm Southern welcome.
TRIP HIGHLIGHTS 5–7 DAYS
510 MILES / 820KM
Ll 240 miles
Pensacola Wakulla Springs GREAT FOR...
# Unspoiled nature
##2 where Tarzan once JGH
played
BEST TIME TO GO
Tallahassee
April to November
# for consistently great
weather.
#5#
I ESSENTIAL
Gulf Islands mK PHOTO
National Seashore
White-sand beaches ##10 A real, live mermaid
stretch on and on performing in an
Weeki Wachee underwater grotto at
9 miles Campy fun at a classic Weeki Wachee Springs.
Florida roadside
attraction K BEST FOR
540 miles NATURE
Birds, lush foliage and
crystal-clear springs at
Wakulla Springs State
Park.
55
North Florida 1 Pensacola
3 Backwaters & Visitors come here from
Byways all over the South for an
all-American blue-collar
Kick off your trip with spectacular white-sand vacation experience:
beaches along the Gulf Coast, then meander snow-white beaches,
backroads and byways to discover northern jam-packed seafood
Florida’s hidden treasures. Along the way you’ll find restaurants, and bars
crystal-clear springs that you can enjoy from an where beer flows like
inner tube or glass-bottomed boat, come face to water. Despite its beachy
face with a Florida manatee, and end your trip with casualness, Pensacola has
a classic roadside attraction starring the mermaids a more serious side, too,
of Weeki Wachee. reflecting the town’s 300-
year history. Get a taste
at downtown’s Historic
Pensacola Village (www
.historicpensacola.org;
Zaragoza St, btwn Tarragona &
Adams Sts; adult/child $6/3;
‚57 miles to Ù[98 Destin äb20 Û]231 VÓU10
äb20
GF lL#21 #]1 Pensacola \# #]
#Fort Pickens #\2\# Pensacola ##3\ Panama
Beach City
Gulf Islands Seaside
National
Seashore
Ù[98
St Joseph Eastpoint [Ù98
Bay
#4\# #\
Apalachicola St George
Island
GULF OF
MEXICO
e# 0 100 km
0 50 miles
h10am-4pm Tue-Sat, tours 54 p61 TRIP HIGHLIGHT 3 North Florida Backwaters & Byways
11am, 1pm & 2:30pm), a well- The Drive » Take US 98 south
preserved collection of 2 Gulf Islands
19th-century buildings. across two causeways to get National Seashore
A military town at heart, to Pensacola Beach; head west
Pensacola is also where to get to Gulf Islands National You’ll get your first taste
you’ll find the Pensacola Seashore and Fort Pickens. of the area’s lovely white
Naval Air Station, home sands at Pensacola Beach
to both the elite Blue LINK
Angels squadron (www. YOUR 4 Doing
blueangels.navy.mil) and TRIP Disney & More
a don’t-miss collection
of jaw-dropping military l Gulf Coast Just one hour south of
aircraft at National Start with the Gulf Weeki Wachi, you can
Coast trip, then continue join up with the Disney
Museum of Naval on 57 miles to pick this trip in Tampa.
Aviation (%850-452-3604; one up in Pensacola.
www.navalaviationmuseum.org;
1750 Radford Blvd; admission
free; h9am-5pm, from 10am
Sat & Sun; c).
H# Bradfordville GEORGIA
p58 #Blues Club
‚
#Tallahassee ]#6
Ù[27 ÓVU10
äb61 #\ White
Springs
#5 Wakulla Springs
ÓVU10
]Û319
#\ #\
St Marks
Perry
ApaBlaaychee
[Ù27
VÓU75
#7
St George
Sound Ichetucknee
Springs
FLORIDA ##]8 Gainesville
Ù[19 \# Micanopy
Ce#\dar # Crystal ]Û441
Key 9 River
Crystal Ù[19 #\ Ocala
Bay
VÓU75
Ù[98
Km GF 4#Weeki 50 miles to
Wachee Brooksville 57
äb50 #\ 4
1#\0 ‚
3 North Florida Backwaters & Byways DETOUR: 4 Apalachicola
BRADFORDVILLE
BLUES CLUB Apalachicola harbors
several historic 19th- and
Start: 6 Tallahassee 20th-century buildings,
After dark, follow rural backroads north of I-10 to all stationed along a
Bradfordville Blues Club (%850-906-0766; www. self-guided historical
bradfordvilleblues.com; 7152 Moses Lane, off Bradfordville Rd; walking tour with stops
tickets $5-25; h10pm Fri & Sat, 8:30pm some Thu). Down that include Southern
the end of a dirt road lit by tiki torches, you’ll find a mansions, a former
bonfire raging under the live oaks at this hidden-away general store and an old-
juke joint that hosts excellent national blues acts. fashioned ships’ chandlery.
and the neighboring 3 Seaside From Appalachiola,
you can cross the
Gulf Islands National Take a breather in causeway into Eastpoint,
Seashore (www.nps.gov/ almost-too-picturesque then head south to the
guis; 7-day pedestrian & cyclist/ Seaside, a tiny pastel sliver of land that is St
car $3/8; hsunrise-sunset), town that may feel George Island, where
part of a 150-mile stretch strangely like a movie you’ll find 9 miles of
of undeveloped beach set. That’s because it glorious beach and sand
on Santa Rosa Island. was; remember The dunes at the pristine
At the western end of Truman Show? It was St George Island State
the island, poke around about an unwitting star Park (%850-927-2111;
Fort Pickens (%850-934- in a reality TV show www.floridastateparks.org/
2600; www.nps.gov/guis; Fort who lived in a surreally stgeorgeisland; vehicle $6,
Pickens Rd, Pensacola; c), perfect small town. camping $24; h8am-dusk).
a crumbling wreck of a Throughout the park,
19th-century fort that A handful of eateries boardwalks lead to
sits practically right and art galleries surround shell-sprinkled beaches,
on the beach – a great the town square, and right where shallow waters
compromise for history across the street is an are perfect for canoeing
buffs and beach lovers absolutely gorgeous beach. and kayaking, and a 2.5-
traveling together. A A group of vintage silver mile nature trail offers
small museum gives Airstream trailers form a exceptional birding.
you insight into both food court in the center of
the fort’s history and town, selling everything 4 p61
the impressive natural from fresh-juice smoothies
surroundings. to grilled kabobs for The Drive » Head northeast
picnicking at the beach.
54 p61 on US 98. After skirting Tates
The Drive » Continue Hell State Forest and crossing
The Drive » Follow FL-399 Ochlockonee Bay, go north on
southeast along the coast, Spring Creek Hwy (365) then
to US 98, traveling through Fort passing through the carnivalesqe east on Hwy 267 to reach the
Walton Beach and past several beach town of Panama City, and entrance to Wakulla Springs. The
oceanfront state parks. Detour the quiet little waterfront town of whole drive takes about an hour
on Hwy 30A to reach Seaside, Mexico Beach. and a half.
about an hour and a half away.
TRIP HIGHLIGHT
5 Wakulla Springs
There’s something
slightly magical about
58
CAROL GRANT / GETTY IMAGES ©
Crystal River National Wildlife Refuge Endangered manatees in their natural habitat
Wakulla Springs State including a mastodon of a 17th-century Spanish
Park (%850-561-7276; www that was discovered and Apalachee mission
.floridastateparks.org; 465 around 1850. that’s been wonderfully
reconstructed, especially
Wakulla Park Dr; car/bike $6/2, 4 p61 the soaring Council
House. Tours provide a
boat tours adult/child $8/5; The Drive » Tallahassee fascinating taste of life
h8am-dusk); perhaps 300 years ago.
that’s why Walt Disney is just half an hour north up
was once rumored to Hwy 61. 54 p61
be considering it for
the location of his new 6 Tallahassee The Drive » Make your way
theme park. Take a boat
tour of the wildlife-filled Closer to Atlanta than southeast along US 27 (FL-20),
Wakulla River, which was Miami, Florida’s capital a sleepy, two-lane highway that
used as a movie set for is far more Southern goes through the town of Perry
several Tarzan movies, than most of the state and not a whole lot else.
as well as The Creature it administrates.
from the Black Lagoon. Downtown, the 7 Ichetucknee
Here, mossy cypress 1845 Tallahassee Springs
trees and mangroves Historic Capitol (www
mingle with manatees, .flhistoriccapitol.gov; 400 S After journeying
alligators and wading Monroe St; c) is fetchingly through the land of
birds. (It wouldn’t be a draped by candy-striped white-sand beaches, get
stretch to imagine this awnings and topped your freshwater fix at
serene outing as the by a glass dome. Dig Ichetucknee Springs
inspiration for Disney’s deeper into Florida StatePark(%386-497-4690;
Jungle Cruise.) The history at Mission San www.floridastateparks.org/
springs themselves flow Luis (%850-245-6406; ichetuckneesprings; 12087
from massive underwater www.missionsanluis.org; SW US 27, Fort White; vehicle
caves that are an 2100 W Tennessee St; adult/ admisssion $6, river use per
archeologist’s dream, child $5/2; h10am-4pm person $5; h8am-sunset).
with fossilized bones Tue-Sun), the 60-acre site The main reason to
59
3 North Florida Backwaters & Byways visit? Relaxing in a giant Rainforest adult/child $10.50/6; 6-12yr $13/5; h9am-5:30pm,
inner tube and floating h10am-5pm Mon-Sat, last entrance 4pm), an old-
through gin-clear waters 1-5pm Sun), if for no other school outdoor Florida
at this popular park reason than the Butterfly animal encounter. It
on the lazy, spring-fed Rainforest. As you stroll features a wealth of
Ichetucknee River. among waterfalls and Florida’s headliner
tropical foliage, hundreds species, but the highlight
The park doesn’t of butterflies flutter freely is an underwater
rent tubes, but local in the soaring, screened observatory where you
farmers do, for about vivarium. can go eyeball to eyeball
$5; find them along with lettuce-nibbling
the highway on your 54 p61 manatees and enormous
way in. Admission is schools of fish. Time your
limited; arrive early as The Drive » Time to reverse visit for the manatee
capacity is often reached program (11:30am,
midmorning. From May our trajectory and head back 1:30pm and 3:30pm).
to September the park to the Gulf Coast. Crystal River
offers a shuttle service is about an hour and a half The Drive » Your final stop
that takes you from the southwest of Gainesville.
south entrance to the is a straight shot south down
launch points, allowing 9 Crystal River US 19. It’s 28 miles from Crystal
you to float back down to River, 20 miles from Homosassa
your car. Between December and Springs.
March, Crystal River
The Drive » After drying National Wildlife Refuge TRIP HIGHLIGHT
(%352-563-2088;www.fws.gov/
off, keep following US 27 crystalriver; 1502 SE Kings Bay a Weeki Wachee
(FL-20) southeast 37 miles to Dr; hvisitor center 8am-4pm
Gainesville. Mon-Fri) offers your best Since 1947, tourists have
bet for seeing endangered been lured north down
8 Gainesville manatees in the wild. It’s the coast by the kitschy
an unforgettable thrill to siren song of Weeki
Gainesville is an take a glass-bottomed- Wachee Springs (%352-
energetic, upbeat city, boat cruise, paddle a 592-5656; www.weekiwachee.
routinely ranked among kayak or go snorkeling com; 6131 Commercial Way,
the country’s best places while encountering ‘sea Spring Hill; adult/child 6-12yr
to live and play. It’s also cows’ in their natural $13/8; h9am-5:30pm),
home to the nation’s habitat. The refuge is one of Florida’s original
second-largest university, only accessible by boat, roadside attractions.
the sprawling University but the visitor center can Guests have flocked
of Florida. A student vibe guide you to nearly 40 here since 1947 to watch
infuses the entire city, commercial operators. glamorous long-haired
with loads of economical mermaids perform
eats, cool bars, and indie For a more casual in their underwater
and punk rock clubs. manatee experience, grotto. There’s also
venture further south a wilderness river
While you’re there, stop to Homosassa Springs cruise, plus swimming
in at the excellent Florida Wildlife State Park and waterslides at the
Museum of Natural (%352-628-5343; www. adjoining Buccaneer Bay
History (www.flmnh.ufl floridastateparks.org/ water park.
.edu; cnr SW 34th St & Hull Rd; homosassasprings; 4150 S
museum admission free, Butterfly Suncoast Blvd; adult/child
60
Eating & Sleeping
Pensacola 1 Wakulla Springs 5
5 Dharma Blue International $$ 4 Wakulla Springs Lodge Lodge $$
(%850-433-1275; www.dharmablue.com; 300 (%850-926-0700; www.wakullaspringslodge.
com; 465 Wakulla Park Dr; r $85-125) The
S Alcaniz St; mains $10-30; h11am-4pm & Wakulla Springs Lodge is a grand Spanish-
style lodge built in 1937, where an 11ft stuffed
5-9:30pm Mon-Sat; c) Many locals consider alligator named ‘Old Joe’ keeps an eye on
things.
this the area’s best restaurant. The eclectic 3 North Florida Backwaters & Byways
menu goes from fried green tomatoes to
luscious sushi rolls.
4 Pensacola Victorian B&B B&B $$ Tallahassee 6
(%850-434-2818; www.pensacolavictorian. 5 Catfish Pad Seafood $
com; 203 W Gregory St; r $85-125; paW)
This 1892 Queen Anne offers four lovingly (%850-575-0053; www.catfishpad.com; 4229
maintained guest rooms. We especially like
Suzanne’s Room, with its hardwood floors, blue W Pensacola St; mains $8-15; h11am-3pm &
toile prints and clawfoot tub.
5-9pm Mon-Fri, 11am-9pm Sat) There’s no doubt
you’re in the South at this home-style seafood
Gulf Islands National joint. Go for a plate of cornmeal-battered catfish
Seashore 2
with a side of grits, chased down with a cup of
sweet tea.
5 Peg Leg Pete’s Seafood $$ 4 Hotel Duval Hotel $$
(%850-932-4139; 1010 Fort Pickens Rd; mains (%850-224-6000; www.hotelduval.com;
$8-20; h11am-10pm; c) Raw? Rockefeller? 415 N Monroe St; r $109-179; paWs)
Casino? Get your oysters any way you like ‘em at Tallahassee’s slickest digs, this 117-room hotel
this popular beach hangout with live music and goes in for a neo-mod look. A rooftop bar and
pirate decor. lounge is open until 2am most nights.
4 Paradise Inn Motel $$ Gainesville 8
(%850-932-2319; www.paradiseinn-pb.com; 21
Via de Luna Dr; r $80-200; paWs) Across 5 Satchel’s Pizza Pizzeria $
from the beach, this sherbet-colored motel is a (www.satchelspizza.com; 1800 NE 23rd Ave;
lively, cheery place thanks to its popular bar and menu items $3-15; h11am-10pm Tue-Sat) You
grill. Rooms are small and clean, with tiled floors eat here as much for the experience as for the
and brightly painted walls. build-your-own gourmet pies. Grab a seat at
a mosaic courtyard table or in the back of a
Apalachicola 4 gutted 1965 Ford Falcon, and enjoy head-
4 Coombs House Inn B&B $$ scratching collections from Lightnin’ Salvage.
(%850-653-9199; www.coombshouseinn.com; 4 Camellia Rose B&B $$
80 6th St; r $129-169, ste $149-269; aW) Settle (%352-395-7673; www.camelliaroseinn.com;
into one of the fabulous rooms in this stunning 205 SE 7th St; r $155-200) Modern upgrades
yellow Victorian and enjoy nightly wine socials (like Jacuzzi tubs) integrate seamlessly with
in the dining room, where a lavish breakfast is antique furniture in this fabulously restored
served each morning. 1903 Victorian building featuring a wide,
relaxing front porch.
61
Disney World Family fun and
frivolity in the Magic Kingdom
PAUL THOMPSON / GETTY IMAGES © Doing Disney
4& More
Whether you are a kid, have a kid, or ever were a kid, you’ll
love this adventure-filled trip that absolutely refuses to let you
be bored.
TRIP HIGHLIGHTS 6–10 DAYS
288 MILES / 464KM
61 miles Orlando lL
Walt Disney World # GREAT FOR...
Make magic at #
Florida's number-one Kennedy GJ
attraction ##4 Space
Center BEST TIME TO GO
Tampa
182 miles April to May to avoid
# Sarasota peak crowds.
White-sand beaches
##8 and the multifaceted I ESSENTIAL
Ringling Museum PHOTO
KmFort Myers # 292 miles You hugging Mickey
#1#0 Sanibel Island Mouse at Walt Disney
A laid-back island World.
community known for
K BEST FOR
its seashells LOW-KEY
FUN
Searching for seashells
on Sanibel Island.
63
4 Doing Disney & 1 Kennedy
More Space Center
Let your inner child loose at Mickey’s Magic Kick off your trip on
Kingdom, but don’t stop there; you’ll find plenty Florida’s Space Coast,
more to entertain you in dizzying Orlando. On the where NASA was founded
east coast, NASA’s Kennedy Space Center is a in the 1950s. Here you’ll
major attraction based on real-world wonder. And find the Kennedy Space
on the west coast there are spectacular white- Center (%321-449-4444;
sand beaches and tons of attractions that are www.kennedyspacecenter.com;
family friendly without being too kid-centric.
adult/child $50/40, parking
$10; h9am-5pm), from
which the first moon
landing was launched.
Although NASA’s
space-shuttle program
has ended, it’s still a
gob-stoppingly cool
attraction. Devote most
4[Ù27 Winter Park Titusville \# LlCanaveral
# äb50 National
Seashore
Orlando
#`ß\# #]2 408 #1
Weeki Wachee #\ #Lake Buena
Vista 3 Universal Kennedy
Orlando Space #\ Cape
#Walt Disney 4 Center Canaveral
World \#
Tarpon VÓU75 4Kissimmee \# Melbourne
Springs \# ]Û192
Ybor
Beach
Dunedin \# ##Tampa City ÓVU4 \# \# Lakeland äb91
Clearwater \# 5#] 6 GF1
Plant
City Vero
Beach
#St Petersburg #]7 Tampa Ù[27
Bay \# Ruskin \#
XWÕ275 \#
Fort
Meade
\# Avon Park
Bradenton \# Fort
ÓVU75 H# Pierce
\#
#Sarasota \#8 p69
FLORIDA
# Myakka River \# Arcadia
State Park
Venice \#
ÓVU75
Englewood \# \# OkeLeachkoebee
Punta
Gorda
MGuexlficoof Charlotte [Ù41 ÓVU75 äb80 \#
Harbour
#9\# Fort Myers Clewiston
Km
`ß867 ‚ 120 miles to e# 0 50 km
#Sanibel Island 1#\0 0 25 miles
\# Fort FG2
Myers
Beach
of your day to the science The Drive » Make the short tropical canals and lakes 4 Doing Disney & More
exhibits and historical while the enthusiastic
museum, IMAX theaters, hop over to Orlando and its tour guide talks about
shuttle-launch simulator cornucopia of theme parks and the mansions, Rollins
and Rocket Garden, attractions, just 52 miles inland. College and other sites
featuring replicas of along the way. After your
classic rockets towering 2 Orlando tour, wander Winter
over the complex. Park’s trendy Park Ave,
While it’s quite easy where you’ll have a slew
But first take the to get caught up in the of restaurants and bars
hop-on, hop-off bus isolated worlds of Disney to choose from.
tour of working NASA or Universal Orlando –
facilities that depart squeezing in one more 5 4 p71
every 15 minutes from ride, one more parade,
10am to 2:45pm. And one more show – Orlando The Drive » Universal
don’t be surprised if your has so much more. Take
bus driver points out the time to explore its Orlando is 10 miles southwest of
alligators hanging out lovely neighborhoods, Downtown Orlando via I-4. Bring
by the roadside or bald rich performing-arts quarters; it’s a toll road.
eagles nesting in nearby scene and several
trees. That’s because fantastic gardens, 3 Universal Orlando
NASA is surrounded by parks and museums.
Merritt Island National Picturesque Loch Haven Just a bit smarter,
Wildlife Refuge (p41). Park, with 45 acres of funnier and faster
Want to log some beach parkland, huge shade than dear old Disney,
time before heading trees and three lakes, Universal Orlando
inland? Canaveral is home to several (%407-363-8000; www
National Seashore museums that are worth .universalorlando.com; 1000
(%321-267-1110; www.nps.gov/ a visit: Orlando Museum Universal Studios Plaza;
cana; car/bike $5/1; hdawn- of Art (%407-896-4231; single/both parks $92/128,
dusk) protects the longest www.omart.org; 2416 N discounts on multi-day;
stretch of undeveloped Mills Ave; adult/child $8/5; hdaily, hours vary) gets
dunes on Florida’s east h10am-4pm Tue-Fri, from your adrenaline pumping
coast. noon Sat & Sun); Mennello with revved-up rides and
entertaining shows. The
LINK Museum of American megaplex features two
YOUR Art (%407-246-4278; www. theme parks, a water
TRIP mennellomuseum.com; 900 E park, three hotels and
Princeton St; adult/child 6-18yr Universal CityWalk, an
1 Highway 1 $5/1; h10:30am-4:30pm entertainment district
The first half of the Tue-Sat, from noon Sun); and that connects the two
Highway 1 trip is the very parks.
best way to get to the Orlando Science Center
first stop on this trip. (%407-514-2000; www.osc. The first of the two
org; 777 E Princeton St; adult/ parks, Universal Studios,
2 The Everglades child 3-11yr $19/13; h10am- has a Hollywood backlot
From I-75 it’s only 5pm Thu-Tue). feel and simulation-
about an hour south to heavy rides dedicated
pick up the end of this trip Just north in Winter to television and the
and do it in reverse order. Park, a sweet one-hour silver screen, from The
Scenic Boat Tour (www Simpsons and Shrek to
.scenicboattours.com; 1 E Revenge of the Mummy
Morse Blvd; adult/child 2-11yr and Twister.
$12/6; hhourly 10am-4pm)
floats through 12 miles of
65
STOCKTREK IMAGES / GETTY IMAGES ©
4 Doing Disney & More
If you have to choose exquisite, rib-tickling theme parks, two water
between the two parks, detail. parks, hotels, restaurants
there’s lots to love and two shopping and
within the themed The Drive » Are we there yet? nightlife districts –
‘worlds’ that comprise proving that it’s not such
Islands of Adventure. Are we there yet? Are we there a small world, after all.
You might find yourself yet? OK fine. We’re going there But it’s not about size.
riding adrenaline rides now. The exit for Disney World is The park’s appeal is in
on Marvel Super Hero another 10 minutes southwest the fact that few visitors
Island, delighting at of Universal Orlando. You can’t can inoculate themselves
the whimsy of Seuss miss it; there’s more than a sign against Disney’s highly
Landing, or exploring or two. infectious enthusiasm
the ersatz-mystical and warm-hearted
Lost Continent. But TRIP HIGHLIGHT nostalgia.
the most magical of
all is the Wizarding 4 Walt The centerpiece
World of Harry Potter, Disney World of it all is the Magic
where you can immerse Kingdom, land of the
yourself in Hogwarts Covering 40 sq miles, iconic Cinderella’s Castle
and Hogsmeade, both Walt Disney World (WDW; and rides such as Space
brought to life in %407-939-5277; http:// Mountain, the Haunted
disneyworld.disney.go.com) is Mansion and Pirates
the largest theme park of the Caribbean. This
resort in the world. It
includes four separate
66
Kennedy Space Center Vehicle Assembly Building
is where the fireworks elevator in the Twilight 5 Tampa
and nighttime light Zone Tower of Terror and
parade illuminate Main the Aerosmith-themed Sprawling and
St, USA, and as far as Rock ‘n’ Roller Coaster. businesslike, Tampa lacks
Disney mythology goes, it the iconic downtown
doesn’t get better. Finally, Disney’s skyline or cultural buzz
Animal Kingdom is that stamps other US
But what about those a sometimes surreal cities with an indelible,
other parks? Park Hopper blend of rides, African distinct persona, but
Passes let you experience safari, shows and it’s much more fun and
them all. Epcot Theme dinosaurs. It’s best at intriguing than first
Park is a more low-key animal encounters and meets the eye. So many
experience with rides, shows, with the 110-acre new museums, parks
interactive exhibits and Kilimanjaro Safaris as its and restaurants have
the World Showcase, centerpiece. popped up recently that
an interesting toe-dip the city is dangerously
into the cultures of 11 5 4 p71 close to becoming stylish.
countries. The Drive » From Walt Disney It’s also a great family
destination, with enough
Disney Hollywood World, it’s an easy if uneventful entertainment to last a
Studios doesn’t bring the one-hour drive southwest down week.
magic but it does have I-4 to get to Tampa.
the two most exciting
rides: the unpredictable
67
4 Doing Disney & More LOCAL KNOWLEDGE: other info. Just a few
YOUR DAY AT DISNEY blocks away, the Ybor
City Museum State
Our best tip for doing Disney right is to arrive 30 Park (%813-247-6323; www.
minutes before opening; stay at the park through ybormuseum.org; 1818 E 9th
lunch, and for another hour or so; leave around 2pm Ave; adult/child under 5yr $4/
or 3pm (when it’s hottest and most crowded); take free; h9am-5pm) chronicles
a nap back at the hotel (kids and parents); then eat the history of cigar-
dinner and return to the park at 6pm (lots of people making in interesting
will be leaving then, with screaming, tired children if text-heavy exhibits,
who didn’t get a nap); and stay until closing. but the real draw is
the excellent historical
Daniel Boland, Orlando walking tour.
Florida Aquarium 4 p71 For true local flavor,
(%813-273-4000; www. The Drive » Your next stop is don’t miss the Columbia
Restaurant (p71). Built in
flaquarium.org; 701 actually within Tampa, but it has 1905, it’s Florida’s oldest,
such a distinct flavor we decided and its 15 dining rooms
Channelside Dr; adult/child to make it its own separate sprawl over an entire city
destination. Ybor City is a short block, each decorated
$22/17; h9:30am-5pm) car or trolley ride northeast of in a traditional Spanish
is one of the state’s downtown. style. Reserve ahead to
best, with all kinds of be seated for one of the
activities and programs, 6 Ybor City exuberant, twice-nightly
and Lowry Park Zoo flamenco shows.
(%813-935-8552; www. Historical buildings with
wrought-iron balconies, 5 p71
lowryparkzoo.com; 1101 W cigar factories lining
brick-lined streets, an The Drive » Across a
Sligh Ave; adult/child $25/20; early 1900s ambiance
with a distinctly Latin causeway and out toward
h9:30am-5pm; pc) flavor…what is this place? the beaches is Tampa’s artier
gets you as close to the Welcome to Ybor City, a and more youthful sibling,
animals as possible. historical neighborhood St Petersburg. It’s about a
You can fulfill your established by Don half-hour drive southwest of
adrenaline craving with Vicente Martinez Ybor, downtown Tampa.
epic rides woven through a cigar factory owner
an African-theme who drew hundreds of 7 St Petersburg
wildlife park at Busch immigrant workers to
Gardens (%813-987-5600; the area. Breezy and strollable,
www.buschgardens.com; 10165 downtown St Pete’s sits
The main drag is 7th right on the waterfront
McKinley Dr; adult/child 3-9yr Ave (La Septima), and the of Tampa Bay, which is
visitor center (%813-241- lined with spiffy new
$85/77, discounts online; 8838; www.ybor.org; 1600 E museums, galleries,
hvaries by day & season), 8th Ave; h9am-5pm Mon-Sat, restaurants and bars. But
and across the street noon-5pm Sun) provides an the headline attraction
is Adventure Island excellent introduction, here is the Salvador Dali
(%813-987-5600; www. with walking-tour maps, Museum (%727-823-3767;
a small museum and www.thedali.org; 1 Dali Blvd;
adventureisland.com; 10001 adult/child 6-12yr $21/7,
after 5pm Thu $10; h10am-
McKinley Dr; adult/child 3-9yr 5:30pm Mon-Sat, to 8pm Thu,
$46/42; hhours vary; daily
mid-Mar–Aug, weekends Sep-
Oct), a massive water park
with slides and rides
galore.
68
noon-5:30pm Sun), with its TRIP HIGHLIGHT one admission gets you 4 Doing Disney & More
dazzling new home on into three museums.
the water. 8 Sarasota To begin with, you can
tour John and his wife
The eccentric One of Sarasota’s Mabel’s Venetian Gothic
Spanish artist painted loveliest features is its mansion called Ca d’Zan,
melting clocks, grew an luscious, white-sand an over-the-top palace
exaggerated handlebar beaches. Lido Beach on the water. Also on the
mustache to look like is closest and has free grounds is the John &
King Philip, and once parking, but 5 miles away Mabel Museum of Art,
filled a Rolls Royce with Siesta Key has sand like an excellent art museum
cauliflower. The largest confectioner’s sugar and that includes a re-created
collection of his work is one of Florida’s best. room from the Astor
outside of Spain doesn’t mansion. But the real
have the melting clocks, The best reason to standout here is the one-
but it does have some visit Sarasota is the of-a-kind Museum of the
melting clocks, as well as wonderful, whimsical Circus. It has costumes,
paintings with titles such props, posters, antique
as The Ghost of Vermeer Ringling Museum circus wagons and an
of Delft Which Can Be Complex (%941-359- extensive miniature
Used as a Table. 5700; www.ringling.org; 5401 model that let you relive
Bay Shore Rd; adult/child the excitement of the big-
With a collection as 6-17yr $25/5; h10am-5pm top era.
broad as the Dalí’s is daily, to 8pm Thu; c), a
deep, the St Petersburg 66-acre complex where
Museum of Fine Arts
(%727-896-2667; www. DETOUR:
fine-arts.org; 255 Beach MYAKKA
Dr NE; adult/child $17/10; RIVER STATE PARK
h10am-5pm Mon-Sat, to
8pm Thu, from noon Sun) is Start: 8 Sarasota
also worth a stop. The
collection traverses world About a half-hour from downtown Sarasota, 57-sq-
antiquities and follows mile Myakka River State Park (www.myakkariver.org;
art’s progression through 13208 State Road 72, Sarasota; car/bike $6/2; h8am-
nearly every era, and sunset) is a wildlife preserve starring Florida’s oldest
several large galleries resident: the 200-million-year-old American alligator.
showcase special
exhibitions. Between 500 and 1000 alligators make their
home in Myakka’s slow-moving river and its shallow,
5 p71 lily-filled lakes, and you can get up close and personal
with these toothsome beasts with an airboat or tram
The Drive » Heading south tour (adult/child $12/6) or by renting a canoe or kayak
(1st/additional hours $20/5). Check the website for
on I-275 over the soaring seasonal schedules.
Sunshine Skyway Bridge
spanning Tampa Bay, you The extensive park’s hammocks, marshes, pine
might feel like you’re in a car flatwoods and prairies are home to a great variety of
commercial; several have been wildlife, and 38 miles of trails crisscross the terrain.
filmed here. Sarasota is 45 Don’t miss the easy, dramatic Canopy Trail. The
minutes south of St Petersburg. park’s 7 paved miles, and various dirt roads, make
excellent cycling, and bird-watchers can spot great
egrets, flocks of white pelicans and blue herons.
69
4 Doing Disney & More To find out what else (moguls gotta stick challenging activity
Sarasota has to offer, together) and now you you’ll engage in will be
stop by the Visitor can see how the early searching for shells –
Information Center innovators lived at the something Sanibel is
(%941-706-1253; www. Edison & Ford Winter particularly known for.
sarasotafl.org; 701 N Tamiami Estates (%239-334-7419;
Trail; h10am-5pm Mon-Sat, www.edisonfordwinterestates. In addition to its
11am-2pm Sun; W). org; 2350 McGregor Blvd; fabulous beaches,
adult/child $20/11; h9am- Sanibel’s 6300-acre JN
5 4 p71 5:30pm).
The Drive » Head inland a few ‘Ding’ Darling National
In addition to Edison’s WildlifeRefuge(%472-1100;
miles to catch I-75, then go 52 winter home, you’ll see www.fws.gov/dingdarling; 1
miles south to pick up US 41/ his laboratory, gardens Wildlife Dr) is a splendid
Tamiami Trail to the town of Fort and a museum dedicated refuge that’s home to an
Myers. The whole trip takes just to his work, as well as abundance of seabirds
over an hour. the estate Henry Ford and wildlife. It has an
bought next door and the excellent nature center,
9 Fort Myers largest banyan tree in the a 5-mile Wildlife Drive,
continental US. Forty- narrated tram tours and
Workaday, sprawling Fort minute guided tours easy kayaking in Tarpon
Myers is overshadowed leave every half-hour Bay.
by the region’s pretty until 4pm.
beaches and upscale, If a sudden afternoon
sophisticated towns. The Drive » With all you’ve thunderstorm should
However, a recent break out, it’s the perfect
facelift has spruced up seen and done on this trip, it opportunity to visit the
the historical riverfront might be time to downshift a
district (along 1st St little bit. Luckily, Fort Myers is Bailey-Matthews Shell
between Broadway and just a short drive from Sanibel Museum (%239-395-2233;
Lee St) into an attractive, and Captiva Islands, southwest www.shellmuseum.org;
brick-lined collection of 23 miles down Hwy 867 and 3075 Sanibel-Captiva Rd,
restaurants and bars. over a 2-mile causeway with a Sanibel; adult/child 5-16yr
Visit www.fortmyers.org $6 toll. $9/5; h10am-5pm). Like a
for information. mermaid’s jewelry box,
TRIP HIGHLIGHT this museum is dedicated
Just a sleepy resort to shells, yet it’s much
town in 1885, Fort Myers a Sanibel Island more than a covetous
was pretty enough to display of treasures. It’s a
entice Thomas Edison Ahhhhh, it’s island crisply presented natural
to build his winter home time. Upscale but history of the sea and its
here. A few decades unpretentious, these shelled creatures – nearly
after Edison moved in, two slivers of barrier a must after a day spent
Edison’s good friend island have a carefully combing the beaches.
Henry Ford bought managed shoreline that
the property next door feels remarkably lush 5 p71
and undeveloped. Bikes
are the preferred mode
of travel, and the most
70
Eating & Sleeping
Orlando 2 Ybor City 6
5 Ravenous Pig American $$$ 5 Columbia Restaurant Spanish $$$
(%407-628-2333; www.theravenouspig.com; (%813-248-4961; www.columbiarestaurant.com;
2117 E 7th Ave; mains lunch $9-15, dinner $18-29;
1234 Orange Ave, Winter Park; mains $13-33; h11am-10pm Mon-Thu, to 11pm Fri & Sat, noon-
9pm Sun) Reserve ahead for the exuberant,
h11:30am-2pm & 5:30-9:30pm Tue-Sat) One of twice-nightly flamenco shows, and enjoy robust,
classic Spanish cuisine and heady mojitos and
Orlando’s best foodie destinations, this bustling sangria. It’s an Old World Iberian time warp. 4 Doing Disney & More
joint offers designer cocktails, creative shrimp
and grits, and lobster tacos. Reserve ahead.
4 Barefoot’n in the Keys Motel $$ St Petersburg 7
(%877-978-3314; www.barefootn.com; 2754 5 Ceviche Tapas $$
Florida Plaza Blvd; ste $89-199; isc) Suites
are bright and spacious in this yellow, six-story (%727-209-2299; www.ceviche.com; 10 Beach
building. Low-key, friendly and close to Disney,
it’s an excellent alternative to generic chains.
4 Courtyard at Lake Lucerne B&B $$ Dr; tapas $5-13, mains $15-23; h11am-10pm)
(%407-648-5188; www.orlandohistoricinn.com; Tapas are flavorful, creative, and generously
211 N Lucerne Circle E; r $99-225; paWc)
This historical inn with enchanting gardens has portioned. End the evening in the cavernlike
roomy suites and handsome antiques. It’s lovely,
despite sitting under two highway overpasses. Flamenco Room below, with live flamenco
Thursday and Saturday nights.
Sarasota 8
Walt Disney World 4 5 Broken Egg Breakfast $
5 California Grill American $$$ (www.thebrokenegg.com; 140 Avenida Messina;
(Disney’s Contemporary Resort; mains $15-60; mains $7-14; h7:30am-2:30pm; c) This diner-
h5-10pm; c) Come for the California fusion style breakfast institution on Siesta Key, known
fare, fine wine list and spectacular views of for huge pancakes and cheddary home fries, is a
Disney fireworks shows; reservations essential. social hub each morning.
4 Disney’s 4 Hotel Ranola Boutique Hotel $$
Wilderness Lodge Resort $$$ (%941-951-0111; www.hotelranola.com; 118
(%407-824-3200; 901 Timberline Dr; r from Indian Pl; r $109-149, ste $209; pai) The
$319; paWsc; f) One of our favorite nine rooms feel like a designer’s brownstone
‘deluxe’ resorts, the ‘rustic opulence’ theme apartment: free-spirited and effortlessly artful,
here includes erupting geysers, a lakelike but with real working kitchens. It’s urban funk,
swimming area and bunk beds for the kids. walkable to downtown Sarasota.
Tampa 5 Sanibel Island a
4 Tahitian Inn Hotel $$ 5 Island Cow Regional $$
(%813-877-6721; www.tahitianinn.com; 601 (%239-472-0606; www.sanibelislandcow.com;
S Dale Mabry Hwy; r $79-139, ste $149-199; 2163 Perwinkle Way; mains $8-19; h7am-10pm)
paiWsc) This family-owned, full- This colorful island cafe has a cheery interior
service hotel offers fresh boutique stylings at and tons of options, from paella to po’boys to
midrange prices. Nice pool, and airport transfers. steaks – a good choice any time of day.
71
Seven Mile Bridge A breathtaking
drive over stunning Gulf waters
CAPTURED BY BEN CARTLAND / GETTY IMAGES © Overseas
Highway to
5Key West
Redefining the road trip, the Overseas Hwy lets you drive
straight out into the ocean toward Cuba, surrounded by water
as you hop from island to island.
TRIP HIGHLIGHTS 0 miles 3–5 DAYS
102 MILES /164KM
55 miles John Pennekamp
Seven Mile Bridge State Park GREAT FOR...
Giddy views as you Immerse yourself in
drive across the ocean underwater splendor JH
Ll BEST TIME TO GO
##1 December to April,
when the weather’s at
its best.
#4# #Islamorada I ESSENTIAL
PHOTO
Km #6# #
Key West Mile Marker
##9 Marathon zero (MM 0): proof you
made it all the way.
Key West Indian & Lignumvitae
A renegade party Keys K BEST FOR
island that's halfway to Kayak out to remote SNORKELING
Cuba deserted islands
102 miles The coral reef and
25 miles crystal waters at
Pennekamp State Park.
73
Overseas
5 Highway to
Key West
There’s no better way – short of hopping on a plane – to enjoy such an utter
feeling of escape from the mainland as driving through the Florida Keys. The
motto here seems to be ‘do whatever the hell you want.’ Pull off the highway
for biker bars, seafood grills and blissful beaches – wherever and whenever
the crazy spirit of these islands moves you.
e# 0 25 miles 50 km
0
\#
Flamingo
GULF OF
MEXICO
Seven Ù[1
Mile
Sugarloaf Big Bridge #5\#
Key Pine
#6 Marathon
#8\# #\
#\ #7
67 miles to Ramrod Bahia Honda
Dry Tortugas Key State Park
National Park
[Ù1
‚ Km#9#\
#Hp80 Key West
TRIP HIGHLIGHT 5pm; c), the USA’s first 5 Overseas Highway to Key Weston a 65ft catamaran
underwater park. from which you can
1 John Pennekamp ‚ ooh and aah at filigreed
Coral Reef State Park It’s a true jewel box flaps of soft coral,
beneath the sea, a vast technicolor schools of
Although the full effect living coral reef that’s fish, dangerous-looking
of driving from island home to a panoply barracudas and massive
to island doesn’t kick of sea life. You never sea turtles.
in until Islamorada, the know what you’ll see
Keys don’t dillydally in underwater, except for You can also dive in
delivering an oceanic one predictable favorite: with a snorkeling trip
treat. One of the first the oft-photographed (%305-451-6300; adult/
things you’ll encounter statue Christ of the
on the Overseas Hwy is Deep, a sunken 4000lb child $30/25) or two-tank
bronze statue. diving trip (%305-451-
John Pennekamp Coral 6322; $55), or go DIY and
Reef State Park (www. Your options for rent a canoe ($20 per
pennekamppark.com; MM 102.6 exploring the reef include hour) or kayak (single/
oceanside; car/motorcycle/ a popular 2½-hour glass- double $12/17 per hour)
cyclist or pedestrian $8/4/2; bottom boat tour (%305- and journey through a
h8am-sunset, aquarium 8am- 451-6300; adult/child $24/17; 3-mile network of water
trails. Call the park
h9:15am, 12:15pm & 3:15pm) for reservations and
departure times.
The Drive » Your instructions
for most of this trip will be the
GFEverglades
FG `ßNational Park
12 miles to 2 [Ù1 Key same: drive farther southwest
42 miles to 1 Largo along the Overseas Hwy. This
first leg is a short one; the park
905
`ß Ll#9336
John Pennekamp and the town of Key Largo are
State Park 1 practically spooning.
##\2 Key Largo
FlBoraiyda #\Tavernier LINK
YOUR
##\3 Islamorada TRIP
#4
1 Highway 1
Indian & Only a 60-mile stretch
Lignumvitae of Hwy 1 separates these
Keys two trips; combining them is
a natural.
2 The Everglades
This trip is the other
way out of the Keys, starting
on the eastern edge of the
Everglades less than an
hour from Key Largo.
75
5 Overseas Highway to Key West 2 Key Largo If you behave better than the fearsome tarpon fish
Hepburn’s character, the before you leave.
We ain’t gonna lie: Key captain might even let
Largo (both the name you take the helm for 5 p81
of the town and the a bit.
island it’s on) is slightly The Drive » You can’t drive
underwhelming at a 5 4 p81
glance, especially given to your next stop; like many of
the romantic notions that The Drive » Continue south the keys, these two can only be
may have been placed in reached by boat. You can rent
your head by hearing it to your next stop, Islamorada, a canoe or kayak or catch a
mentioned in pop culture which sounds like an island, but charter from Robbie’s Marina.
references ranging from is actually a string of several
Humphrey Bogart to the islands. It is here where the trees TRIP HIGHLIGHT
Beach Boys. open up and you finally start to
feel like you’re in the islands. 4 Indian &
As you drive onto Lignumvitae Keys
the islands, Key Largo 3 Islamorada
resembles a long line Take a boat tour or
of low-lying hammock When you reach paddle yourself out to
and strip development. Islamorada, you’ll finally either of these remote
But that’s from the feel like you’re in the islands, both of which are
highway. Head down islands. Here at last on the National Register
a side road and duck are unbroken horizons of Historic Places and
into this warm little of sea and sky, one offer a serene glimpse
bar, or that converted perfect shade of blue into what Florida was
Keys plantation mirroring the other. like before cars, condos
house, and the island’s Near mile marker 73.5, and cheap souvenir
idiosyncrasies become sandy Anne’s Beach T-shirts.
more pronounced. opens upon a sky-bright
stretch of calm waters for An island ghost town,
Speaking of pop splashing about beside Indian Key (%305-664-
culture, the actual a tunnel of hardwood 2540; www.floridastateparks
African Queen (%305-451- hammock. Kids will love .org/indiankey; MM 78.5
8080; www.africanqueenflkeys getting stuck in the tidal oceanside; per person $2.50;
mud flats. h8am-sunset) contains
.com; MM 100 oceanside, at the the ruins of a 19th-
Down the road, century settlement.
Holiday Inn Marina; canal cruise Robbie’s Marina (%305- In the 1830s it was a
$49, dinner cruise $89) – 664-8070; www.robbies. thriving town, complete
a steamboat used in com; MM 77.5 bayside; kayak with a warehouse, docks,
the 1951 movie starring & canoe rentals from $40; streets, hotel and about
Humphrey Bogart and h9am-8pm) is a combo 40 to 50 permanent
Katherine Hepburn – has tourist shop, fishing residents. However (cue
been restored to her marina and cruise-boat the ominous music), the
former, er, splendor, and operator. From here you settlement was wiped
you can relive the movie can kayak over to the out in a Native American
aboard the tiny vessel on virgin tropical rain forest attack during the Second
a canal or dinner cruise. of Lignumvitae Key, tour Seminole War, and now
Indian Key’s historical all that remains are
ruins or get happily crumbling foundations.
buzzed on a party boat. It’s a serene if sometimes
Don’t forget to look in on eerie experience, walking
among ruins and
76
paddling around in utter TOP TIP:
isolation. MILE MARKERS
On the bay side, the Many addresses in the Keys are noted by their
isolated Lignumvitae proximity to mile markers (indicated as MM), which
Key Botanical State start at MM 126 in Florida City and count down to
Park (%305-664-2540; MM 0 in Key West. They also might indicate whether
www.floridastateparks.org/ they’re ‘oceanside,’ which is the south side of the
lignumvitaekey; admission highway, or ‘bayside,’ which is north.
$2.50, tour $2; htours 10am
& 2pm Fri-Sun) has virgin kids, including marine If you care to stop, you 5 Overseas Highway to Key West
tropical forests and the touch tanks. And if can also walk out onto
1919-built Matheson you’re ready to hop in the the parallel Old Seven
House. Douse yourself in ocean, Sombrero Beach Mile Bridge, a hurricane-
bug spray and consider (Sombrero Beach Rd, off MM 50 battered railway and
long sleeves – mosquitoes oceanside) is a wonderful auto causeway no longer
have staged a coup and park with shady picnic used except as the Keys’
overtaken the island – to areas, nicer-than-you’d- longest fishing pier.
see some beautifully expect bathrooms, and a Below the old bridge,
undeveloped island playscape for the kiddos. about 2 miles from the
during weekend tours. It’s one of the few white- mainland, Pigeon Key
sand, mangrove-free (%305-743-5999; www
The Drive » From Robbie’s beaches in the Keys. .pigeonkey.net; tours leave
from MM 47 oceanside; adult/
Marina, settle in for a half-hour 5 4 p81 child/under 5yr $12/9/free;
drive to Marathon, the halfway The Drive » The almost- htours 10am, noon & 2pm)
point between Key Largo and is a National Historic
Key West. aptly-named Seven Mile Bridge District. Hop on a ferry
starts just past Marathon and over to the island to
5 Marathon continues on for (shhh, don’t amble around an early-
tell) just under 7 miles. 20th-century railroad
Marathon sits right workers’ village built by
on the halfway point TRIP HIGHLIGHT real-estate tycoon Henry
between Key Largo and Flagler, or come just for
Key West, and is a good 6 Seven the snorkeling and sun-
place to stop on a road Mile Bridge splashed beach.
trip across the islands.
It’s perhaps the most Take a deep breath The Drive » Just a couple of
‘developed’ key outside because next up on
Key West, in the sense the horizon is the miles after the bridge touches
that it has large shopping gasp-worthy Seven down and you’re back on land,
centers and a population Mile Bridge. Florida is you’ll reach the entrance to
of a few thousand. full of head-spinning Bahia Honda State Park on
causeways, but none your left.
Stop and stretch your longer than this beauty
legs at Crane Point soaring over the Gulf of 7 Bahia Honda
(www.cranepoint.net; MM Mexico. Driving across it State Park
50.5 bayside; adult/child provides one of the most
$12.50/8.50; h9am-5pm memorable stretches of This park – with its
Mon-Sat, from noon Sun; c), road anywhere. long, white-sand (and
a nature center with
walking trails through
a hardwood hammock
and wildlife exhibits for
77
WHY THIS IS AIMAGE SOURCE / GETTY IMAGES ©
CLASSIC TRIP
MARIELLA KRAUSE,
AUTHOR
This is one of my favorite road trips
of all time. Leaving the mainland
gives you a unique sense of
escape, and when you’re out there
surrounded by ocean, you can’t
help but feel like you’ve truly gotten
away. It’s only fitting that quirky Key
West is the last stop – your reward
for going all the way to the end.
Top: Lighthouse, Fort Jefferson
Left: Christ of the Deep statue, John Pennekamp
Coral Reef State Park
Right: Bahia Honda Rail Bridge, Bahia Honda State
Park
78
MIKE THEISS / GETTY IMAGES © seaweed-strewn) beach
is the big attraction in
these parts. As Keys 5 Overseas Highway to Key West
beaches go, this one is
BUENA VISTA IMAGES / GETTY IMAGES © probably the best natural
stretch of sand in the
island chain, but we
wouldn’t vote it the best
beach in the continental
USA (although Condé
Nast did…in 1992). As a
tourist, the more novel
experience is walking a
stretch of the old Bahia
Honda Rail Bridge, which
offers nice views of the
surrounding islands.
Or check out the nature
trails (ooh, butterflies!)
and science center, where
helpful park employees
help you identify stone
crabs, fireworms,
horseshoe crabs and
comb jellies.
The park concession
(%305-872-3210; MM 36.8
oceanside) offers daily
1½-hour snorkeling trips
at 9:30am and 1:30pm
(adult/child $30/25).
Reservations are a good
idea in high season.
The Drive » Your next stop
is another 17 miles along, and
you’ll need directions to find
it. On Sugarloaf Key, turn right
at the sign for the Sugarloaf
airport, near mile marker 17,
then take the right side of the
fork in the road.
8 Sugarloaf Key
Ready for a little tidbit
of randomness? Just off
the highway (only about
one minute out of your
way) you’ll find Perky’s
Bat Tower, a 1920s real-
estate-developer’s vision
79
counting up from mile marker Love a good ghost
zero. Once you hit town, drive story? Key West is full
all the way to the edge; that’s of them. You might just
where the heart of Old Town is find out your guesthouse
located. is haunted during the
5 Overseas Highway to Key West gone awry. To eliminate TRIP HIGHLIGHT Original Ghost Tour
pesky mosquitoes from (%305-294-9255; www.
his planned vacation 9 Key West hauntedtours.com; adult/child
resort, Richter Perky $15/10; h8pm & 9pm), and
imported a colony of bats Key West has enjoyed a you’ll hear all about the
(he’d heard they’d eat long and colorful history creepy antics that got
mosquitoes) and moved that includes pirates, Robert the haunted doll
them into a custom- sunken treasures, confined to Fort East
made 35ft tower that literary legends and lots Martello (%305-296-3913;
resembles an Aztec- of ghosts. A visit to the www.kwahs.com/martello.htm;
inspired fire lookout. 3501 S Roosevelt Blvd; adult/
The bats promptly flew Ernest Hemingway Home child $7/5; h9:30am-4:30pm).
off, never to return, and and Museum (%305-294-
the mosquitoes lived 1136; www.hemingwayhome The Keys are home
happily on. The tower is .com; 907 Whitehead St; adult/ to the only living coral
the only vestige of the child $13/6; h9am-5pm) is barrier reef in the
development that would practically mandatory, United States, which
have been. him being the unofficial means snorkeling here
patron saint of Key West is excellent. Warm, clear
The Drive » Can you feel the and all. Bearded docents water and white sand
lead tours every half- make conditions ideal,
excitement? You’re only about hour, during which they and the fish are vibrant
half an hour away from the end spin yarns of Papa, his about a half-hour boat
of the road: Key West. Or is that wives, and his famous ride from the island.
the beginning of the road? US 1 six-toed cats.
technically begins in Key West, At sunset, crowds fill
Mallory Square for the
DETOUR: Sunset Celebration, a
DRY TORTUGAS nightly festival where
NATIONAL PARK you’ll see jugglers,
fire-eaters, and street
Start: 9 Key West performers of every
stripe. And at the end of
Seventy miles beyond the end of the Overseas Hwy, the day, bar aficionados
Dry Tortugas National Park (%305-242-7700; www. flock to the Green Parrot
nps.gov/drto; adult/15yr and under $5/free) is a 2¼-hour (www.greenparrot.com;
ferry ride or 40-minute seaplane flight out into the 601 Whitehead St; h10am-
Gulf of Mexico. This small cluster of coral reefs, 4am), a fine purveyor
named ‘The Turtles’ by Spanish explorer Ponce de of old-school Key West
León, is a hot spot for diving, snorkeling, bird- ambiance. Purported to
watching, fishing and exploring Civil War–era Fort be the oldest bar on the
Jefferson, a striking hexagonal centerpiece of red island, it’s Key West’s
brick rising up from the emerald waters. Getting here tenured local hangout.
isn’t easy, or cheap, but it’s worth it for the middle-of-
nowhere experience at American’s most inaccessible 5 4 p81
national park.
80
Eating & Sleeping
Key Largo 2 4 Lime Tree Bay Resort Motel Motel $$
5 Alabama Jack’s Seafood, Bar $ (%305-664-4740, 800-723-4519; www.
limetreebayresort.com; MM 68.5 bayside; r $135-
(http://alabamajacks.com; 58000 Card Sound 175, ste $185-395) A plethora of hammocks
and lawn chairs provide front-row seats for the
Rd; mains $7-14; h11am-7pm) On the backroad spectacular sunsets at this 2.5-acre waterfront
hideaway.
between Key Largo and Florida City, this funky
open-air joint draws an eclectic booze-hungry 5 Overseas Highway to Key West
crowd of genuine Keys characters. Try the rave-
worthy conch fritters. Key West 9
5 Mrs Mac’s Kitchen American $ 5 Blue Heaven American $$$
(%305-451-3722; www.mrsmacskitchen.com; (%305-296-8666; http://blueheavenkw.
MM 99.4 bayside; breakfast & lunch $8-12, dinner homestead.com; 729 Thomas St; dinner $17-35;
$9-22; h7am-9:30pm Mon-Sat) This cute h8am-4pm, to 2pm Sun, 5-10:30pm daily) One
roadside diner bedecked with rusty license of the island’s quirkiest venues (and it’s a high
plates serves classic highway food such as bar), where you dine in an outdoor courtyard
burgers and fish baskets. with a flock of chickens. Customers gladly wait,
4 Largo Lodge Hotel $$ with creative, well-executed dishes as their
(%305-451-0424; www.largolodge.com; MM 102 reward.
bayside; cottages $150-265; p) Charming, sunny 5 Camille’s Fusion $$
cottages with their own private beach sit amid (%305-296-4811; www.camilleskeywest.com;
palm trees, tropical flowers and lots of roaming 1202 Simonton St; breakfast & lunch $4-13,
birds – a taste of Florida in the good old days. dinner $15-25; h8am-3pm & 6-10pm; v) Ditch
Duval St and dine with the locals at Camille’s; its
Islamorada 3 inventive menu ranges from French toast with
Godiva liqueur to tasty chicken salad.
5 Island Grill Seafood $$ 4 Cypress House Hotel $$$
(%305-664-8400; www.keysislandgrill.com; (%305-294-5229, 800-549-4430; www.
85501 Overseas Hwy, Islamorada; breakfast $5- cypresshousekw.com; 601 Caroline St; r $169-
10, mains $9-25; h7am-10pm Sun-Thu, to 11pm 329; paWs) This plantationlike getaway
Fri & Sat) The ramshackle waterfront building has wraparound porches, leafy grounds,
may not look like much, but you’ll be surprised a secluded swimming pool and spacious,
how damn good the peel-and-eat shrimp and individually designed bedrooms with four-
cracked conch are. Casual, contemporary poster beds.
Floribbean fare with breezy ocean views and 4 Mermaid &
lotsa live bands. Guesthouse $$$
the Alligator
Marathon 5 (%305-294-1894; www.kwmermaid.com; 729
Truman Ave; r winter $258-328, summer $168-
5 Keys Fisheries Seafood $ 228; paiWs) Book way ahead: with
only nine rooms, this place’s charm exceeds
(www.keysfisheries.com; 3502 Gulfview Ave; its capacity. It’s chock-a-block with treasures
mains $7-16; h11am-9pm) A rare thing in the collected from the owners’ travels.
islands: a nontouristy, unfussy and authentic
seafood spot. Famous for its lobster Reuben
sandwiches, Cajun-fried fresh fish and colossal
stone-crab claws (in season).
81
STRETCH . Ocean Drive
YOUR LEGS
MIAMI Ocean Dr is the classic Miami strip,
BEACH where neon-accented art-deco
buildings line the way for an endless
Start/Finish: Ocean Dr parade of cars, rollerbladers and
Distance: 3 miles pedestrians. Stop at the Art Deco
Duration: Three hours Welcome Center (%305-672-2014;
www.mdpl.org; 1001 Ocean Dr, South Beach;
Greater Miami sprawls, but compact h9:30am-5pm, to 7pm Thu ) if you really
Miami Beach packs in the sights, want to immerse yourself in the world
making it perfect for an afternoon of of decorative finials and cantilevered
exploring on foot. Get a taste of its eyebrows.
famous art-deco district, as well as
its luscious, white-sand beaches. The Walk » Head north. To fully appreciate the
Take this walk on Trip architecture, stick to the park side of the street.
At 13th St, note the Carlyle Hotel, where The
1 Birdcage was filmed. Cross Lummus Park to get
to the beach.
82
Lummus Park & South Beach
Take off your shoes and dig your toes
into some of the most luscious sand
you’ve ever felt, and stare out at (or run
straight toward) the teal-green water
that’s shallow and warm enough to
splash around in for hours. Run up and
down if you must – cartwheels in the
sand would not be inappropriate – but
be sure to notice the six floridly colored
lifeguard stands that stretch along this
strip.
The Walk » Walk (or wade) up the beach and
find the path that takes you to Lincoln Rd just
past the Loews Hotel. (If you get to the Sagamore
you’ve gone too far.) Walk two blocks along Lincoln
until you reach Washington Ave.
Lincoln Road Mall
Calling Lincoln Rd a mall is technically
accurate, but misses the point. Yes, you
can shop, and there are sidewalk cafes
galore. But this outdoor pedestrian
promenade between Alton Rd and
Washington Ave is really about seeing
and being seen; there are times when
it feels less like a road and more like a
runway.
The Walk » Head south down busy Collins
Ave, another thoroughfare that’s lined with deco
treasures. At 13th St, hop over one block to
Washington Ave.
444
Lincoln Road Mall # 444
Lincoln Rd Mall 444Lincoln Rd
Euclid Ave 44416th St Washington Ave .#
Drexel Ave
15th St Collins Ave 15th St
Ocean Ct
Española Way 444LuPmarmkus
Meridian Ave Pennsylvania Ave Biscayne Bay
Michigan AveFlamingo 14th St 444Miami
Lenox AvePark
Alton Rd Beach Post
West Ave Office
#
13th St
444Lummus
# Park &
South Beach
Jefferson Ave 12th St Collins Ct
Ocean Dr
The Promenade
44411th St # 11th St
Wolfsonian-FIU # Diner
444MIAMI ART DECO 10th St #ï Art Deco Welcome Center
BEACH HISTORIC 9th
DISTRICT St
9th St
J44% 4444e#
0 500 m 8th St #
0 0.25 miles Ocean Drive
Miami Beach Post Office The Walk » Now that you’re refreshed, head
just a few doors down; your next stop is in the
Ahhh, Miami Beach – even its same block.
municipal buildings are treasured
works of art. A fine example of
Streamline Moderne, the Miami Beach Wolfsonian-FIU
Post Office (1300 Washington Ave) was
built in 1937 as part of the Works A fascinating museum that’s part
Progress Administration. Duck inside of Florida International University,
to mail some postcards and check out the Wolfsonian-FIU (www.wolfsonian
the striking ceiling mural of a stylized .org; 1001 Washington Ave; adult/child 6-12yr
night sky.
$7/5; hnoon-6pm Thu-Tue, to 9pm Fri)
showcases artifacts from the height of
the Industrial Revolution from the late
The Walk » Just two blocks down – and they’re 19th to mid-20th century. The exhibits
not very interesting blocks, so we’re tempted to span transportation, urbanism,
send you back over to Collins – is a vintage dining industrial design, advertising and
experience. political propaganda, and give some
11th St Diner intriguing insight as to what was going
on in the world while all that deco was
Many art-deco buildings evoke being built.
modes of transportation, such as
planes, trains or ships. Well, the The Walk » It’s just two short blocks along 10th
shiny little 11th St Diner (p45) does St to get back to Ocean Dr. Between 7th and 8th is
more than evoke: it’s actually housed a fetching strip of buildings including the Colony
in a classic Pullman train car. Pull Hotel, which you’ll recognize instantly if you’ve
over for refreshments; the inside is ever watched anything set in Miami Beach.
as cute as the outside.
83
84
The
Carolinas
SPARKLING BEACHES, RUGGED
MOUNTAINS AND HAVE-ANOTHER-
BISCUIT HOSPITALITY. Yep, the Carolinas
share more than just a name and a border.
For a drive on the wild side, North Carolina is
the place to start. In the western mountains
the Blue Ridge Parkway and Great Smokies
serve up wildlife, white water and lofty peaks.
In the east, windswept dunes and roaming
mustangs keep things wild in the Outer Banks.
South Carolina has its share of adventure, but
scenery and history slow the pace. Lowcountry
roads meander past plantations and mossy
oaks, while Upcountry byways take in battle-
fields and foothills. And rocking chairs are
everywhere – just waiting to ruin your itinerary.
Great Smoky Mountains National Park Fall colors (Trip 7) 85
GIORGIO FOCHESATO / GETTY IMAGES ©
KENTUCKY VÓU81 Martinsville
Bristol ]#
The Kingsport ]# #] Grassy \# Mount #\
Carolinas Creek Airy Greensboro
Johnson Boone
Morristown City ]#
#\ #\
Erwin #\ GF6 Winston-salem ]# ]#
Pisgah
Great Smoky National VÓU40
Mountains Forest Statesville #\
National Park ÓVU26 #\
h^441 Asheville #\ #\ VÓU77 Lexington
FG #\ Black Lake UNwahtiaornraiel
7 Waynesville Mountain Gastonia Norman Forest
TENNESSEE Nantahala
National
Chattanooga ]# Cleveland Forest FG9 #\
]# ÓVU85 ]# Charlotte
Chattahoochee \#Gaffney
National `ß183 ]# ÓVU85 ]# ]# Rock Hill
Forest #\ Lancaster
Greenville Spartanburg
Brood River #\
XWÕÓVU20 385 ÓVU77 Wateree Cheraw
Florence
Anderson #\ #\ Lake
Hartwell ]#
Reservoir Clinton
]# ÓVU85 Greenwood #\ Irmo #\ Columbia
Gadsden #] ^#
]#
Talladega ]# Atlanta Athens Clark Batesburg #\ #\
NFaotiroenstal Sumter
Hill Lake
Reservoir Lake City
#\Aiken #\ Marion
GEORGIA VÓU20 #]
Augusta Orangeburg ÓVU26 Lake
ÓVU85 Oconee Moultrie
National SOUTH
Forest Sav CAROLINA Moncks #\
Corner
annah River
MartinOpelika#\ Macon GFWalterboro#\ 10
Lake #]
#]
[Ù17 Charleston
#] Columbus ÓVU16 Beaufort #\ StSHouelnedna
ÓVU75
ALABAMA
Cordele \# #]Savannah
6 Blue Ridge Parkway 5 Days 9 Greenville & Cherokee Foothills
The beloved byway explores the Scenic Highway 2 Days
craggy, misty depths of the Appalachians.
Blue Ridge foothills played host to
7 The Great Smokies 4–5 Days Cherokees, patriots, moonshiners and
Raft over rapids, scan for wildlife FDR’s Tree Army.
and drive two fantastic nature loops.
a Lowcountry & Southern Coast
8 North Carolina’s Outer Banks 3 Days
3 Days
Tour the plantations, absorb Gullah
Wave-pounded barrier islands beloved Culture and enjoy another scoop of shrimp
by pirates, mustangs and the Wright and grits.
Brothers.
86
VIRGINIA Norfolk #] DON'T
: MISS
Danville : Biltmore Legacy
]# #\ Roanoke : #\ Corolla For less of the
Rapids formality and more of
4Henderson #\ FG]Û158 the family, visit the new
#\ VÓU95 8 ‘Vanderbilts at Home
ÓVU85 Elizabeth City and Abroad’ exhibit on
Rocky äb12
Burlington Rodanthe #\ Trip6
]# Mount
Tarboro Cape Museum of the
]# Durham ]# Hatteras Cherokee Indian
Chapel \# \# VÓU64
]# Raleigh \# \# Williamston Learn about three
Hill Wilson Cherokee chiefs, who
Greenville journeyed to England
and met with King
]#
\# 7George III, on Trip
Sanford \# #] Goldsboro Washington Bodie Island
Lighthouse
\# Dunn Cedar Island
This 1872 lighthouse
Fayetteville VÓU40 Ferry #\ with an original Fresnel
#\ lens is open to visitors
#] Croatan Ocracoke for the first time. Visit
National #\ Atlantic on Trip 8
Forest Cape Lookout
Jacksonville #] \# National Cowpens National
\# Lumberton NORTH Cape Seashore Battlefield
Morehead
CAROLINA City Walk the battlefield to
Lookout witness how terrain,
#\ Dillon planning and luck
#] Wilmington propelled Patriot forces
VÓU95 \#
9to victory on Trip
Whiteville
King’s Farm Market
Conway Cape
\# Fear You’ll spend more time
than planned at this
Socaste \##]Myrtle roadside market where
Beach the conversation is
easy and the baked
#\ goods delicious. Visit
Georgetown on Tripa
ATLANTIC 87
OCEAN
e# 0 200 km
0 100 miles
BRUCE ROBERTS / GETTY IMAGES ©
Grandfather Mountain Springtime flowers (Trip 6)
Blue Ridge Parkway Wildlife,
waterfalls and winsome towns
CAMERON DAVIDSON / GETTY IMAGES © Blue Ridge
6Parkway
This drive on America’s favorite byway curves through the leafy
Appalachians, where it swoops up the East Coast’s highest
peak and stops by the nation’s largest mansion.
TRIP HIGHLIGHTS 5 DAYS
210 MILES / 338KM
21 miles Ll
GREAT FOR...
Grandfather Valle Crucis
Mountain JG
Cross a mile-high #
suspension bridge for BEST TIME TO GO
a parkway panorama #5#
May to October for
35 miles #6# leafy trees and open
Linville Falls attractions.
A family-friendly hike
leads to views of a 90ft I ESSENTIAL
waterfall PHOTO
Waterrock ##10# #11 The mile-high
suspension bridge at
mKKnob Visitor Grandfather Mountain.
Center
#
Downtown Asheville Biltmore Estate K BEST FOR
Enjoy indie shops and Peer at gargoyles, FAMILIES
microbreweries dumbwaiters and a
101 miles bowling alley The route has steam-
109 miles train rides, gem mining,
easy hiking and old-
fashioned candy.
89
6 Blue Ridge
Parkway
The Blue Ridge Parkway stretches 469 miles, from Shenandoah National Park
in Virginia to Great Smoky Mountains National Park in North Carolina. In the
Tar Heel State, the road carves a sinuous path through a rugged landscape
of craggy peaks, crashing waterfalls, thick forests and charming mountain
towns. Three things you’ll see? White-tail deer, local microbrews and signs
for Grandfather Mountain. And one piece of advice: at breakfast, never say
no to a biscuit.
TENNESSEE #\ Greeneville Unaka ]Û19E
Sampson Mountain Û]19E
Mountain #\ Wilderness
Wilderness Erwin
#\ Newport Cherokee Linville Falls
National #6\#
Forest
Burnsville Spruce
#\ Pine
#\
\#
Hot Mars Hill \#
Springs #\
Little
Mt Mitchell Switzerland
State Park
#7 ]Û221
ß`VÓU26 128 Pisgah
National
ÓVU40 Forest
Great Smoky Black Mario#\n
Mountains
National Park Folk Art Mountain
Asheville #\
8 Center
# #Downtown Asheville 10 #\ VÓU40
Waterrock ##11
9 Blue Ridge Parkway
Knob Canto#\n ÓVU40 Biltmore Estate Ù[25 Visitor Center
NORTH
FG Km‚ Visitor CAROLINA
Center
1 mile to #\ Waynesville #12 ÓVU26 H#
#13 Shining
7 Rock Mt Pisgah p96 #
Trailhead Chimney h^74A
#\ #\ Sylva Wilderness Rock Park
Dillsboro Rutherfordton #\
15 miles to
Nantahala Hendersonville #\ ‚
National Forest FG9
1 Valle Crucis mastgeneralstore.com; Hwy to pan for semi-precious 6 Blue Ridge Parkway
194, Valle Crucis; h7am- stones, which are sold
How do you start a 6:30pm Mon-Sat, noon-6pm by the bucketload. There
road trip through the Sun; c) and its Annex are several gem-mining
mountains? With a good (www.mastgeneralstore.com; spots near the Parkway,
night’s sleep and all the Hwy 194; h10am-6pm Mon- but Foggy Mountain,
right gear. You’ll find Sat, noon-6pm Sun). The first a smaller company, is
both in Valle Crucis, a of several Mast general operated by graduate
bucolic village west of stores across the region, gemologists who may
Boone. After slumbering the original sells many of take their craft a bit
beneath sumptuous the same products that more seriously. After
linens at the Mast Farm it did when it opened in sifting your rocks in a
Inn (p98), a 200-year-old 1883. Today you’ll find miner’s flume line, the
farmhouse, ease into the bacon and hard candy gemologists will cut
day sipping coffee from a as well as hiking shoes and mount your favorite
rocking chair on the inn’s and French Country finds in any number of
front porch. hand towels. The Annex settings.
building, just south on
Down the road is the Hwy 194, sells outdoor In downtown Boone,
apparel and hiking gear. home of Appalachian
Original Mast General State, you’ll find
Store (%828-963-6511; www. 5 p98 shopping and dining on
King Street. Keep an
lL ß`Valle Crucis The Drive » Drive south eye out for the bronze
# #\#1 statue of local bluegrass
]ÛBoone 421 on Hwy 194, also known as legend Doc Watson. He’s
Broadstone Rd, through 3 miles strumming a Gallagher
105 \#2 of rural splendor. At Hwy 105 guitar like nobody’s
turn left. business at the corner of
# h^Moses H Cone 4 321 King and Depot Sts.
Memorial Park 2 Boone
\#3 Blowing 5 p98
ß` # #105 5 Rock If you’re traveling The Drive » From King St,
with kids or wannabe
Grandfather prospectors, stop at turn onto Hwy 321 just past the
Foggy Mountain Gem Daniel Boone Inn restaurant.
Mountain Mine (%828-963-4367; www. Drive 4 miles then turn right at
foggymountaingems.com; 4416 the theme park.
Û]321 Hwy 105 S, Boone; buckets
$17-120; h10am-6pm; c)
JLaamkees Morganton LINK
YOUR
\# TRIP
7 The Great 9 Greenville &
Smokies Cherokee Foothills
Scenic Highway
Continue past the last
Parkway milepost, Mile Drive south on US 25 from
469, to the entrance to the Asheville to South Carolina
national park. and SC-11.
e# 0 20 km 91
0 10 miles
6 Blue Ridge Parkway 3 Blowing Rock Blowing Rock, 2.3 miles south of TRIP HIGHLIGHT
the Tweetsie Railroad. Once on
The Parkway runs just the Parkway, drive south 2 miles. 5 Grandfather
above the village of Mountain
Blowing Rock, which 4 Moses H Cone
sits at an elevation of Memorial Park Don’t let a fear of
4000ft. On a cloudy heights keep you from
morning, drive south on Hikers and equestrians driving up to the famed
Hwy 321 to the top of the share 25 miles of swinging bridge near the
mountain to check out carriage roads on the peaks of Grandfather
the cloud-capped views former estate (Mile Mountain (%828-733-
of surrounding peaks. 294) of Moses H Cone, a 4337; www.grandfather.com;
The eastern continental wealthy philanthropist Blue Ridge Pkwy Mile 305;
divide runs through the and conservationist who adult/child 4-12yr $18/8;
bar at the Green Park Inn made his fortune in h8am-7pm Jun-Aug). Yes,
(p98), a white-clapboard denim. His mansion and the 228ft-long bridge is
grand hotel that opened grounds were given to 1 mile above sea level
in 1891. They say author the national park service and yes, you can hear
Margaret Mitchell in the 1950s. His Colonial its steel girders ‘sing’
worked on Gone with the Revival mansion, on gusty days, but the
Wind while staying here. completed in 1901, now ground is just 80ft
houses the Parkway below the span. Nothing
A rite of passage for Craft Center (%828-295- to sneeze at, for sure,
every North Carolina 7938; www.craftguild.org; but it’s not the Grand
child is the Tweetsie Mile 294, Blue Ridge Parkway; Canyon, and the views
Railroad (%877-893-3874; h9am-5pm mid-Mar–Nov). of nearby mountains
www.tweetsie.com; 300 The shop sells high-end are superb. The small
Tweetsie Railroad Ln; adult/ crafts made by members
child $37/23; h9am-6pm daily of the Southern Highland Nature Museum
Jun-Aug, 9am-6pm Fri-Sun Craft Guild. Free tours spotlights local flora
mid-Apr–May, Sep & Oct; of the 2nd floor of the and fauna as well as
c), a theme park where mansion, Flat Top Manor, regional explorer Daniel
Appalachian culture are offered on Saturdays Boone. Behind the
meets the Wild West. The and Sundays June museum, black bears,
highlight? A 1917 coal- through mid-October deer and otters roam a
fired steam locomotive at 10am, 11am, 2pm and small animal habitat.
that chugs past 3pm. Tours do fill up. To Grandfather Mountain
marauding Indians and reserve a spot call %828- is a Unesco Biosphere
heroic cowboys. Midway 295-3782 on the Friday Reserve.
rides, fudge shops and before your visit.
family-friendly shows Park attractions have
round out the fun. The Drive » Head south on been privately managed
by the Morton family
5 4 p98 the Parkway, passing split rail since the 1950s. The
fences, stone walls, streams and North Carolina State
The Drive » The entrance meadows. Just south of Mile Park System purchased
304 the Parkway curves across the mountain’s
to the Blue Ridge Parkway is in the Linn Cove Viaduct, the last backcountry lands in
section of the Parkway to be 2008, and Grandfather
completed, in 1987, because of Mountain State Park
the terrain’s fragility. Exit onto (www.ncparks.gov) was
US 221 at Mile 305 and drive 1 established the following
mile south.
92
year. State park trails Trail (round-trip) at 7 Mt Mitchell 6 Blue Ridge Parkway
can be accessed from popular Linville Falls. State Park
the Parkway for free, Here, the Linville River
or from parking lots sweeps over two separate A trip to Mt Mitchell
inside the attraction falls before crashing (%828-675-4611; www
with paid admission. 2000ft through a rocky
The strenuous but gorge. The trail crosses .ncparks.gov; 2388 State
varied Grandfather Trail the river then follows it
runs 2.4 miles from downstream. At .5 miles, Hwy 128; admission free;
the suspension bridge a spur trail leads to a
parking lot along the view of the Upper Falls. h8am-9pm May-Aug, closes
mountain’s crest, ending The 90ft Lower Falls are earlier rest of the year) might
atop Calloway Peak; the visible from the Chimney lead to a fight. Will you
trail includes cables and View and Gorge View drive to the top of the
ladders. overlooks just ahead. At highest mountain east of
the latter you’ll also see the Mississippi, or will
The Drive » Follow the the imposing Linville you hike there? Make
Gorge. Ponder the scope your decision at the park
Parkway south and turn left of it all at the trail’s last office (h8am-5pm Apr-Oct,
just south of Mile 316 to reach stop, the Erwin’s View closed weekends Nov-Mar),
Linville Falls. Overlook. which sits beside a
2-mile trail to the 6684ft
TRIP HIGHLIGHT The Drive » Drive south on summit.
6 Linville Falls the Parkway and turn right, At the top you’ll
south of Mile 355, onto NC 128. see the grave of the
Have time for just one Follow NC 128 into the park. mountain’s namesake,
hike? Then hop out of Dr Elisha Mitchell. A
your car for the moderate dedicated professor
1.6-mile Erwin’s View from the University of
BLUE RIDGE PARKWAY TRIP PLANNER
Construction of the Parkway began in 1935, during the Great Depression, after the
government harnessed the strength of thousands of out-of-work young men in the
Civilian Conservation Corps. The Parkway wasn’t fully linked together until 1987,
when the Lynn Cove viaduct opened.
Travel Tips
»»The maximum speed limit is 45 mph.
»»Long stretches of the road close in winter and may not reopen until March. Many
visitor centers and campgrounds are closed until May. Check the park service
website (www.nps.gov/blri) for the latest information about road closures and the
opening dates for facilities.
»»The North Carolina section of the Parkway begins at Mile 216.9, between the Blue
Ridge Mountain Center in Virginia and Cumberland Knob in North Carolina.
»»There are 26 tunnels on the Parkway in North Carolina (and just one in Virginia).
Watch for signs to turn on your headlights.
»»For more trip planning tools, check the websites for the Blue Ridge Parkway
Association (www.blueridgeparkway.org) and the Blue Ridge National Heritage Area
(www.blueridgeheritage.com).
93
CREDIT/LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©
LOCAL VOICEANDRE JENNY / ALAMY ©
JENNIFER PHARR
DAVIS, OWNER,
BLUE RIDGE HIKING
CO; AUTHOR OF
CALLED AGAIN, ABOUT
HER 46-DAY TRAVERSE OF THE
APPALACHIAN TRAIL
Past Mt Pisgah you come to a
lookout along the Parkway for
Graveyard Fields. It’s a beautiful
area with several different hiking
trails to choose from. There’s a
great waterfall right there that’s
very close to the Parkway. It’s called
Lower Falls, or Second Falls. There’s
also an Upper Falls, which is not as
spectacular, but it’s a nice walk up.
Top: Bass Lake, Moses H Cone Memorial Park
Left: Horseriding, Moses H Cone Memorial Park
Right: Chimney Rock, Chimney Rock Park
94
6 Blue Ridge ParkwayNorth Carolina, he died
after a fall while trying
PAT & CHUCK BLACKLEY / ALAMY © to verify the height of
the mountain in 1857. A
SEAN PAVONE / ALAMY © circular ramp beside the
grave leads to panoramic
views of the surrounding
Black Mountains and
beyond.
The Drive » Return to the
Parkway and drive south to
Mile 382. During the last two
weeks of June look for blooming
rhododendrons.
8 Folk Art Center
As you enter the lobby
at the Folk Art Center
(%828-298-7928; www
.craftguild.org; Mile 382;
h9am-6pm Apr-Dec, to 5pm
Jan-Mar), look up. A row of
handcrafted Appalachian
chairs hangs from the
walls above. They’re an
impressive calling card
for the gallery here,
which is dedicated to
southern craftsmanship.
The chairs are part
of the Southern
Highland Craft Guild’s
permanent collection,
which holds more than
2400 traditional and
modern crafts. Items
from the collection –
pottery, baskets, quilts,
woodcarvings – are
displayed on the 2nd
floor. The Allanstand
Craft Shop on the 1st
floor sells a range of fine
traditional crafts.
The Drive » Turn right onto
the Parkway and drive south.
After crossing the Swannanoa
River and I-40, continue to
Mile 384.
95
6 Blue Ridge Parkway 9 Blue Ridge desk has brochures and ale at microbreweries
Parkway Visitor coupons for Asheville like the convivial – and
Center area attractions. hoppy – Wicked Weed
(www.wickedweedbrewing.
Sit back and let the The Drive » Drive north, com; 91 Biltmore Ave). At
scenery come to you the engaging Thomas
at this helpful visitor backtracking over the interstate Wolfe Memorial (www.
center (%828-298-5330; and river, and exit at Tunnel Rd, wolfememorial.com; 52 N
www.nps.gov/blri; Mile 384; which is US 70. Drive west to US Market St; museum free, house
240 and follow it to the exits for tour $5; h9am-5pm Tue-Sat),
h9am-5pm), where the downtown Asheville. the city celebrates its
beauty and wonder of the most famous angsty
drive is captured in a big- TRIP HIGHLIGHT son, Thomas Wolfe, who
screen film, Blue Ridge penned the Asheville-
Parkway – America’s a Downtown inspired novel Look
Favorite Journey. A park Asheville Homeward, Angel.
service representative
can provide details about Hippies. Hipsters. Hikers. Hikers can shop for
trails along the Parkway And a few high-falutin’ new boots at impressive
at the front desk. For preppies. This 4H Club Tops for Shoes (www
a list of regional sites gives Asheville its funky .topsforshoes.com; 27 N
and activities, slide the charm. Just look around. Lexington Ave) and outdoor
digital monitor across Intellectual lefties gather gear at Mast General
the interactive I-Wall at Malaprops Bookstore Store (www.mastgeneralstore
map at the back of the and Café (www.malaprops. .com; 15 Biltmore Ave). The
main hall. The adjacent com; 55 Haywood St), where preppies? They’re working
regional information the shelves stretch at downtown banks and
from Banned Books to law firms – and checking
Southern Cooking. And out the same places as
the hipsters? They’re everybody else.
nibbling silky truffles
at Chocolate Fetish The finishing touch? A
(www.chocolatefetish. sidewalk busker fiddling
com; 36 Haywood St) or a lonesome mountain
sipping homegrown tune. It’ll put a spring in
your step while maybe
DETOUR: just breaking your heart.
CHIMNEY ROCK PARK
The Drive » Follow Asheland
Start: a Downtown Asheville
Ave (which becomes McDowell
The US flag flaps in the breeze atop this popular St) south. After crossing
park’s namesake 315ft granite monolith. The top Swannanoa River, the entry to
can be reached by elevator or by stairs – lots and Biltmore Estate is on the right.
lots of stairs. Once on top, look east for amazing
views of Lake Lure. Another draw is the hike around TRIP HIGHLIGHT
the cliffs to 404ft Hickory Nut Falls. Scenes from
The Last of the Mohicans were filmed at the park b Biltmore Estate
(www.chimneyrockpark.com; Hwy 64/74A; adult/child $15/7;
h8:30am-5:30pm late Mar-Oct, hours vary rest of the year). The destination that
There’s a small exhibit about the movie inside the put Asheville on the
Sky Lounge. From Asheville, follow US 74A east for 20 map is the 175,000-sq-ft
scenic, but very curvy, miles. Biltmore Estate (%800-
543-2961; www.biltmore.
com; 1 Approach Rd; adult/
child under 16yr $59/30;
96
hhouse 9am-4:30pm, BLUEGRASS & MOUNTAIN MUSIC 6 Blue Ridge Parkway
restaurants & shops vary). The
French Chateau–style For locally grown fiddle-and-banjo music, head deep
mega-mansion, built by into the hills of the High Country. Regional shows
shipping and railroad and music jams are listed on the Blue Ridge Music
heir George Vanderbilt Trails (www.blueridgemusic.org) and the Blue Ridge
II, was completed in National Heritage Area (www.bluerdgeheritage.com)
1895 after six years of websites. Here are three to get you started, from
work by hundreds of north to south:
artists, craftsmen and
educated professionals. »»Mountain Home Music Concert Series (www
The Vanderbilt-Cecil .mountainhomemusic.com) Spring through fall,
family still owns the enjoy shows by Appalachian musicians in Boone on
estate. The entrance fee scheduled Saturday nights.
is steep, so arrive early to
get your money’s worth, »»Old Fort Mountain Music Jam (www
and note that tours of .mcdowellnc.org) Tap your toes Friday nights from
the house are self-guided. 7pm to 10pm in downtown Old Fort, east of Asheville.
The $10 audio tour is
worth purchasing for »»Historic Orchard at Altapass (www
the extra details. For an .altapassorchard.org) On weekends May through
additional $17 you can October, settle in for an afternoon of music at Little
take a general guided Switzerland, at Mile 328.
tour or join a specialized
behind-the-scenes guided The Drive » After exiting the south are a campground,
tour focusing on the a general store, a
architecture, the family grounds, turn right onto US 25 restaurant and an inn.
or the servants. Children and continue to the Parkway, not
ages 10 to 16 are free June quite 3.5 miles, and drive south. The Drive » The drive south
through August with an
adult paid admission. c Mt Pisgah passes the Graveyard Fields
Trailhead Overlook, which has short trails
In addition to the to scenic waterfalls. The 6047ft
mansion there are For a short hike to a Richland-Balsam Overlook at
gardens, trails, lakes, panoramic view, pull into Mile 431.4 is the highest point on
restaurants, an inn the parking lot beside the Parkway. From here, continue
and a winery, with the Mt Pisgah Trailhead south another 20 miles.
complimentary wine just beyond Mile 407.
tasting. At the estate’s From here, a 1.6-mile d Waterrock
Antler Hill Village, trail (one way) leads to Knob Visitor Center
don’t miss the new The the mountain’s 5721ft
summit, which is topped This trip ends at the
Vanderbilts at Home by a lofty TV tower. The Waterrock Knob Visitor
& Abroad exhibit in trail is steep and rocky Center (Mile 451.2),
the Biltmore Legacy in its final stretch, but which sits at an elevation
building. With a focus you’ll be rewarded with of nearly 6000ft. With
on family history and views of the French a four-state view, this
stories, the exhibit Broad River Valley and scenic spot is a great
includes a family tree – Cold Mountain, the latter place to see where you’ve
look for Anderson made famous by Charles been and to assess what’s
Cooper’s name – and a Frazier’s novel of the ahead. Helpful signage
samurai sword owned by same name. One mile attaches a name to the
George Vanderbilt. mountains on the distant
horizons.
97
Eating & Sleeping
Valle Crucis 1 Thu, to midnight Fri & Sat, bar to 2am nightly)
The bartenders keep a sharp but friendly eye
6 Blue Ridge Parkway 4 Mast Farm Inn & on things at this lively British pub where the
shepherd’s pie comes neat, not messy.
Simplicity Restaurant B&B $$$ 4 Cliff Dwellers Inn Motel $$
(%828-963-5857; www.themastfarminn.com; (%828-295-3098; www.cliffdwellers.com;
2543 Broadstone Rd; r incl breakfast $209-249, 116 Lakeview Terrace; r $99-129, apt $179;
cabins $349-419, restaurant mains $22-34, paW#) From its perch above town, this
prix fixe $48-53; paW) The farmhouse well-named motel lures guests with good
and adjacent cabins define rustic chic, with service, reasonable prices, stylish rooms and
hardwood floors and clawfoot tubs. The upscale balconies with sweeping views.
mountain cuisine at Simplicity is worth a trip in
itself. Each guest receives a personalized menu 4 Green Park Inn Hotel $$
for dinner – ‘Slow Chicken NASCAR style but (%828-414-9230; www.greenparkinn.com;
mighty low on points and Ashe County cheese 9239 Valley Blvd, Blowing Rock; r incl breakfast
trucked over by Junior Johnson.’ Enjoy! $149-189; paW#) Under new management,
this historical gabled inn serves up history,
Boone 2 refreshed Victorian style and made-to-order
breakfasts. Pets are $25 per night. The GPS
5 Daniel Boone Inn Southern $$ address is 5995 Lenoir Turnpike.
(%828-264-8657; www.danlbooneinn.com; 130
Hardin St; breakfast adult $10, child $5-7, dinner Asheville
adult $17, child $6-10; h11:30am-9pm Mon-Fri,
8am-9pm Sat & Sun Jun-Oct, hours vary rest of 5 12 Bones Barbecue $
the year; c) Quantity is the name of the game (www.12bones.com; 5 Riverside Dr; dishes $4-20;
at this restaurant, and the family-style meals h11am-4pm Mon-Fri) Sooooiiieeee, 12 Bones is
are a Boone (sorry) for hungry hikers. Open good. The slow-cooked meats are smoky tender,
since 1959. Cash or check only. and the sides, from the jalapeno cheese grits to
5 Hob Nob Farm Cafe Cafe $$ the buttery green beans, will have you kissing
(www.hobnobfarmcafe.com; 506 West King St; your mama and blessing the day you were born.
breakfast & lunch $3-12, dinner $8-15; h10am- Order at the counter, grab a picnic table, die
10pm Wed-Sun; v) Inside a wildly painted happy. Lunch only, closed weekends.
cottage, mountain town hippie types gobble up 5 Admiral Modern American $$
avocado-tempeh melts, Thai curry bowls and (%828-252-2541; www.theadmirainc.com; 400
sloppy burgers made from local beef. Brunch is Haywood Rd; small plates $10-14, large plates
served until 5pm. $22-30; h5-10pm) This concrete bunker,
which sits beside a car junkyard, looks divey
Blowing Rock 3 on the outside. But inside? That’s where the
magic happens. This low-key West Asheville
5 Six Pence Pub Pub $$ spot is one of the state’s finest New American
(www.sixpencepub.com; 1121 Main St; mains restaurants, serving wildly creative dishes – flat
$9-18; hrestaurant 11:30am-10:30pm Sun- iron steak with soy-sauce mashed potatoes and
Vietnamese slaw – that taste divine.
98
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