Rías Baixas in the Media

Oct 10, 2019
Circulation 6,750,000

20 White Wines You Can Still Drink When It's Cold Out

By Bryan Freedman

Just because autumn is here doesn’t mean that you need to stop drinking white wine. It just means that
the pairings change—fewer crisp whites with grilled seafood and more of them with spaghetti and clams,
cooked indoors—and that richer ones take on a greater sense of prominence. Here, then, are 20 standout
bottles of white wine to enjoy as the cooler weather arrives. Honestly, any one of them would be great
year-round, but these bottles seem particularly well-suited to this chillier time of year.

Bodegas del Palacio de Fefiñanes Albariño 2017 Rías Baixas ($21)
This smells like the sea in the very best sense: Oyster shells, lemon zest, just the slightest hint of flowers
it the background, perhaps a bit of warm hay or grass: It’s a savory expression of the variety. On the
palate, each sip is concentrated and nervy with acidity, showcasing a layered mid-palate that carries
flavors of hard stone fruit and mineral, all of it lingering through the long, almost briny finish. Bring on the
raw seafood!

Flora Springs Soliloquy White Wine 2018 Napa Valley ($50)
The freshness of the nose here is so lithe, with aromas of apricot, white nectarine, grapefruit, and
passionfruit wrapping themselves around a core of springtime flowers. All of this precedes a palate of
notable concentration with flavors of hard pear, subtle sweet spice, and a quiet herbaceousness. With a
simple dish of linguine and shrimp, it’ll be perfect.

Chappellet Signature Chenin Blanc 2018 Napa Valley ($38)
What a fascinating nose, with almond skin and citrus pith as well as a bit of yellow apple, all preceding
flavors of white grapefruit, hard stone fruits, a deep seam of minerality, and a finish that’s just the slightest
bit salty, which makes this particularly excellent at the table. The texture is generous yet well-structured,
and there’s lovely weight and propulsive energy to the palate. Excellent wine, and the dryness of the
finish makes me want to have more and more.

Grgich Hills Estate-Grown Fumé Blanc 2017 Napa Valley ($31)
Somewhat reductive aromas of matchstick at first, but these blow off and reveal notes of yellow grapefruit
and lemon pith, which turn to vivid, generous flavors of more yellow grapefruit, fresh-squeezed lemon,
verbena, nectarine, and sweet spice at the edges, all of it carried on a generous palate with excellent
concentration and terrific lime-like acidity. This is fantastic now and promises several years of evolution in
the cellar. The finish lingers in the most wonderful way.

Component Wine Company Semillon 2018 Yount Mill Vineyard, Napa Valley ($68)
This rings in at just 11% alcohol, which is a brave and deeply respectable move. And nothing, clearly, has
been lost in the production of the white wine with the lowest ABV on this entire list: The nose is utterly
charming, with beeswax and honeysuckle leading the way for yellow plums and a hint of sweet spice, all
preceding a beautifully structured palate with more of those yellow plums, as well as honey and a subtle
hint of Marcona almonds. The finish is marked by the same well-calibrated floral note as the nose, lending
each sip a real sense of symmetry. Generous lees-stirring has given it all an attractive creamy texture.

Monticello Vin Gris de Pinot Noir 2016, Virginia ($20)
Though technically a vin gris, this looks like a white wine. Its savory, rich preserved-lemon notes sparkle
with verbena, lemon blossom, walnuts, and mashed Marcona almonds. On its own or alongside food, it’s
a home run this time of year…or anytime, for that matter.

Eighty Four Albariño 2018 Carneros Napa Valley ($28)
Clean and pure as soon as you start sniffing it, with generous, almost autumnal notes of orchard fruit, as
well as a bit of cantaloupe and mineral preceding a palate of both subtle weight and vibrant energy.
Flavors of fennel seed, white licorice, yellow apple, and almond blossom are nervy and detailed through
the finish. Made by the legendary Doug Shafer and Elias Fernandez.

Gonzalez Byass Tio Pepe Fino en Rama 10th Anniversary Edition ($26.99)
What an incredible and deeply evocative nose, concentrated and tugged through with lemon peel,
leather, white tea, and cigar humidor, as well as notes of yeast and the sea. On the palate, this is a riot of
hay, yeast, a distinctly maritime note, and bright, fresh squeezes of lemon and lemon oils. Dry flowers,
mashed pistachios, and Marcona almonds round out this powerful, fennel-bulb-flecked wonder.

Folded Hills Estate White Wine 2017 Santa Ynez Valley ($60)
Rich yet not overwhelming, this vanilla-flecked Roussanne shows flavors of guava, beeswax, and a bit of
honeysuckle on the finish. I could drink this all autumn long.

Inama Vigneti di Foscarino Soave Classico 2016 ($26)
Quite a serious profile on the nose, with savory notes of lemon pith and zest, fennel fronds, and slightly
honeyed pecans turning to a palate of d’Anjou pears, beeswax, orange blossom, and white cardamom, all
carried on a lush texture with lots of energy and concentration. This is an excellent example of how
serious Soave can be.

Michel Chapoutier Les Vignes de Bila-Haut Blanc 2017 Côtes du Roussillon ($15)
Distinctly waxy aromas are joined by white tea, flint, spice, and a hint of yellow plum, and turn to flavors of
beeswax, honeysuckle, white licorice, hard pear, and spice that rings through on the finish, where that
licorice peeks back in. As always, this is a remarkable value, and a wine of serious pleasure.

Mi Sueño Chardonnay 2016 Los Carneros ($42)
Rich and exceptionally generous (yet balanced!) notes of buttered popcorn are joined by grilled
pineapple, fresh-baked cornbread, baked apples, and mashed fennel bulbs. On the palate, it has all the
richness you’d want in a Chardonnay of this style, all the generosity, yet with a sense of balance to the
plushness that is transfixing. Flavors of baked apple, salted caramel, graham crackers, and lemon
blossoms are detailed and come in waves, lingering through the long finish.

Moss Wood Chardonnay 2017 Wilyabrup, Margaret River, Australia ($65)
There is an entire universe in the nose here, which dances with baba au rhum, grilled pineapple, gunflint
minerality, lemon clotted cream, white peach, and cobbler shell. It’s every bit as impressive when you
take the first sip, with a distinctly savory edge to the otherwise broad flavors of charred vanilla pod,
nectarine, lemon marmalade, and cantaloupe, all of it framed with fascinating spice notes (white
cardamom and baking spice, primarily) and the rind in a jar of orange marmalade. The finish is long and
generous, flecked with flowers and almonds, and remains impeccably balanced and concentrated
throughout. Absolutely stunning.

Mount Edward Riesling 2017 Central Otago, New Zealand ($19)
This brilliant (and wildly affordable) Riesling from the southernmost wine region on the planet practically
leaps from the glass with apricot, nectarine, and orange blossom, yet finds a beautiful sense of anchoring
with finely cut mineral notes that seems to have been lifted directly from the slate soils in which it grows.

Peteglia Vermentino 2018 Montecucco, Tuscany
This is an intriguing wine, the grapes for which were harvested in October, when the skins had turned
orange. After pressing, the juice was allowed to remain in contact with those skins before being run off
and fermented. The result is a transportingly aromatic wine singing with orange blossom and mineral, and
a concentrated, slightly salty palate flecked with flavors of melon rind, orange blossom, and nuts. The
finish reminds me of gun flint in the best possible sense. This is excellent, and a great indication of the
supremely exciting things that are happening in Montecucco right now.

Ponzi Pinot Gris 2017 Willamette Valley ($19)
White flowers and honey on the nose are complicated by lemon and lemon pith. On the palate, this shows
lemon, sweet spice, honeysuckle, and white mountain flowers, as well as a bit of lemon curd and white
tea.

Sidebar Mokelumne River Kerner 2017 Lodi ($25)
With mouthwatering acidity reminiscent of passionfruit, and a finish that fans out with flavors of pistachios,
fresh-squeezed lemon, and a hint of spice, this is a wine that seems to embody the transition from
summer to autumn in a particularly visceral manner. A serious yet joyous wine from David Ramey, and
while the 2018 is the current release, this previous vintage demonstrates that his interpretation of Kerner
has the structure and stuffing to benefit from a bit of bottle age. Excellent.

Story of Soil Gruner Veltliner 2018 Fiddlestix Vineyard, Sta. Rita Hills ($30)
Such clean, well-defined aromas of lime zest, lentils, and warm stones precede a super-energetic palate
that shimmers with saline minerality, lemon-lime, bright lemon blossom, and a hint of those lentils from
the nose, which really gain traction on the bone-dry and unexpectedly lengthy finish. Excellent wine.
Alongside pan-seared trout, this will absolutely sing.

Vietti Roero Arneis 2017 ($23)
Graham cracker pie crust aromas are charmingly unexpected and tinged with a hint of quince, leading to
a palate of energy and herbal aromatics, as well as jasmine, orange blossom, and lemon drops. Proof
that Roero Arneis remains one of the great heroes of the world of Italian white wine.

William Chris Vineyards “Mary Ruth” White Wine 2017 Texas ($28)
This blend of Malvasia Bianca, Blanc du Bois, and Muscat Blanc may not read as terribly cool-weather-
appropriate on paper, but the extra year of bottle age has allowed an unexpectedly savory side to emerge
from the otherwise generously floral and sweetly spiced tangerine-driven aromas and flavors. There is
also a hit of white tea and gunflint, as well as white-blossomed flowers and preserved lemon, that make it
perfect for an autumn day that still retains some of the heat of the summer.

Oct 15, 2019
Circulation 5,000

WINE REVIEW: 2015 Nora da Neve, Rias Baixas, Spain ($30)

By Andrew Chalk

Appearance: Light straw;
Nose: Salinity, lemon, pineapple
Taste: Worthy body. Medium-plus acid. Grippy phenolics.
Finish: Tropical fruit
This 100% Albariño is unusual in that it was fermented in oak. The near universal norm in Rias Baixas is
stainless steel. The application is gentle, creating a subtle effect of greater body and more complex
flavors. This is one of the most interesting Rias Baixas wines that I have tasted and, despite being more
expensive than conventional Rias Baixas albariño, should be considered a good value.

Oct 15, 2019
Circulation 5,000

WINE REVIEW: 2016 Fillaboa, Selección Finca Monte Alto, Rias Baixas,
Spain ($26)

By Andrew Chalk

I am so glad I tried this wine with a chicken tikka masala that I made. The chicken tikka masala was ho
hum, but this wine is a stunner. It did all the things that the textbooks say a good wine should do to food.
Its acid backbone elevated the wine above the creamy sauce. Its citrus fruit flavors (mainly lemon) stood
out adding a new dimension to the meal. Its herbaceousness on the palate provided an earthiness to
complement the meat. The nose displays those lemon notes and also a surprisingly ripe apple
component.
Typically for Rias Baixas it is 100% Albarino, a grape that is surging in popularity. This example comes
from a single vineyard named Monte Alto and production is tiny (833 cases). The vineyard is close to the
vital Miño river and is composed of sandy loam with lots of pebbles, a scenario that likely accounts for
good drainage, a vital attribute in viticulture.
The winery reports that 2016 was a difficult year. There was heavy rain in the Spring and drought in the
Summer. By the time harvest came around (on 14th September) matters had corrected somewhat but the
resulting wine had higher alcohol levels and lower acidity than usual. That said, I enjoyed the fruit-acid
balance with food.
Winemaking was typical for Rias Baixas. Fermented and aged in stainless steel for 12 months.
This wine comes highly recommended and may start you on a voyage of discovery of Albarino. It is a
good example of the type.



October 29, 2019
Circulation 54,000,000

14 Wines Perfect for Thanksgiving Dinner

ALLI HOFF KOSIK
There’s a lot to be said about turkey and mashed potatoes and stuffing…but can we just talk about
Thanksgiving wine for a sec? Possibly the most underrated item at any Thanksgiving table, the vino is the
thing that makes all of the other things better. It makes the food taste more delicious, your relatives more
hilarious, and the political conversations you have with your dad a little more bearable.
But when Mom puts you in charge of picking out the offerings, you may be stumped. (WTF even goes
with turkey, anyway?) Alexis Percival, co-beverage director and partner of Ruffian and Kindred in New
York, suggests paying special attention to your fellow feasters—not the food.
“You can make a good pairing with a little research, but if no one enjoys it, what’s the point?” she says.
“The point is to have a nice time, not to be a wine snob.” Preach. Here are 14 wines perf for your T-Day
feast.

11. Bodegas Fillaboa Albariño Rias Baixas 2017
wine.com
$19.99
SHOP NOW
You might think you want to catch a buzz ASAP, but when you’re several courses into the big meal, a
higher alcohol content might not actually be your friend. (Hello, sleepy time.) Percival recommends
something with slightly lower ABV like this Albariño.

Nov 12, 2019
Circulation 10,000

These Are Great Holiday Wine Gifts & For Sharing and Celebrating

By John Dunham

When we think of “the holidays” we think of celebrations. Getting together with friends and family during
the holiday season for good food, good cheer, and great wine is a wonderful way to start the Winter
season. There are going to be dozens of occasions where people will need to either select wines for
meals, bring wines for meals, give a gift of wine, or simply bring a bottle as a housewarming gift. We think
these are holiday wine gifts you’ll want to consider.

Holiday Wine Gift Ideas From Two Events We Attended:
Wines from New Zealand:

We recently sampled wines at two events in New York City. The first, New Zealand Naturally, was hosted
by New Zealand Wine. This event was held on a lovely rooftop farm in Brooklyn.

The event featured wines produced under the country’s Sustainable Winegrowing New Zealand program.

Wines from Spain:
The second event was the annual Spain’s Great Match (read a 2015 review on sherry) walk-around
tasting, hosted by Food and Wines from Spain and held at the Marcado Little Spain in the new Hudson
Yards development.

At both of these events, we sampled wines that would make both great gifts and housewarming presents,
as well as wines that would be a unique addition to any dinner or event.

To find these we focused our tasting on unique bottlings from both regions, and specifically on celebratory
sparkling wines. Some of our favorites included:

Gift Wines:
These Unique Wines Make Welcome Addition To A Collection

Quartz Reef Methode Traditionelle Brut, Bendigo Central Otago (NV: $33):

This sparkling wine from the South Island of New Zealand is a traditional blend of Chardonnay and Pinot
Noir. It has a very traditional taste profile, with a light gold color, indistinctive nose, and yeasty, apple-
based palate. It is somewhat pricey for a New Zealand wine but it is a very unique gift that can be shared
with friends and family during almost any occasion.
Amisfield Pinot Noir, Central Otago (2016: $45):
Pinot Noir is one of those varietals that seemingly grows everywhere but produces excellent wines in only
specific regions.
We generally don’t think of New Zealand for Pinot Noir; however, Armisfield has done an outstanding job
with this one. Light garnet in color, the wine had a distinct black cherry nose and a palate rich in cherry,
with an interesting note of candied orange rind. Let this one age!
Paco et Lola, Albarino (2012: $50):

Albarino rarely lasts in our cellar long enough to age, but it does so very well.
This 7-year old version of the Paco et Lola Albarino was golden in color with a honeysuckle nose. It’s
buttery on the palate similar to California Chardonnay but with strong minerality,
This is a unique wine and a great gift.
Special Gift Wines:
We tend to think a housewarming/hostess/thank-you wine should be unique. Anyone can go and buy a
bottle of chardonnay, but really unique wines from unique regions always offer something special.
El Kano Group, Olatu (2018: $19):

This wine is a slightly sparkling, very dry white wine with high acidity and low alcohol content produced in
the Basque Country.
Known as a Txakoli It must be drunk young, preferably in the same year that it was bottled, and is
generally served as an aperitif in Spain.
This wine had a rich nose of white flowers, was light yellow in color and had a licorice, lemony palate. It
was very unique and probably is not in your hostesses cellar.
El Kano Group, Ilunabar Rose (2018: $19):
Another Txakoli, this rose bottling was coppery in color with a somewhat footy nose. On the palate, it was
oaty, with a lot of minerality. Again, this is a unique wine that would add to any cellar.
Sparkling Wines:
Pere Ventura Cava (2014: $62):
This wine is one example of a number of excellent vintage Cava wines that were at the tasting. Golden in
color, with a strong apple nose, and a dry yeasty palate, this is a great example of what a high-end Cava
can be.
Segura Viudas Reserva Heredad (NV: $30):

This is a lovely wine with a long heritage, produced by an estate that dates back to the 11th century.

Made from two-thirds Macabeo and one-third Parellada grapes, the wine comes in a distinctive bottle that
makes it a lovely house gift.
Light straw yellow in color with a light mouse and a yeasty nose, this Cava is yeasty, apply and clean, a
very champagne style of Cava.
These are great pairing wines. They’re well-priced and can work with many different holiday favorites.

Codorniu, Anna (NV: $15) and Codorniu Anna Rose (NV: $15):

These are two of our go-to party wines. Reasonably priced, beautifully packaged, these two Cava
bottlings bring a celebration to life.
The blanc de blanc is pale straw yellow in color with a persistent mousse. Citrusy on the nose, the palate
is balanced with citrus and tropical flavors.
The rose is light red with a persistent mouse. On the nose there are berries, and red fruits which
translate to the palate.
White Wines:
Waipapa Bay Pinot Gris, Marlborough (2019: $15):

The Marlborough region of New Zealand is well known for spectacular Sauvignon Blanc wines. However,
the skilled winemakers of the area have also produced a large number of bottlings from other varietals.
This Pinot Gris is no exception.
Light golden in color, with a nose featuring a lot of pear and stone fruit, the wine had a fruity peach palate
alongside great minerality.
This makes the wine excellent for pairing with both heavier poultry dishes and creamy seafood.
Paco et Lola, Albarino (2018: $21):

Those who read these columns know that we love Albarino. This white wine from northern Spain and
Portugal is one of the most flexible white wines when it comes to pairing.
This particular bottling was light straw yellow in color with a floral nose, and a citrusy, minerally palate.
Somewhat sweeter than most Albarino varietals this would be a wonderful wine with fish-based pastas
like vongole.

November 25, 2019
Circulation 804,060

Take the Texas Two-Sip Challenge This Texas Wine Month

JESSICA DUPUY

October is Texas Wine Month, an occasion to dig deeper into the finest wines of the Lone Star State.
Rather than simply recommending our favorites, we invite you to gather a few friends and host your own
taste-test challenge. This “Texas Two-Sip,” originally dreamed up by the Texas Department of Agriculture
a few years back, is a playful way to explore the regional differences between Texas wines and varietals
from elsewhere in the world.

Included below are a list of Texas wines paired with international offerings made from the same grape or
in the same style—Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Tempranillo, and
others.

What’s the catch? Each pairing must be served blind—the bottles wrapped in foil, paper bags, or tissue
paper—with no knowledge of its origin. This fun little showdown encourages you to put your senses to the
test and allows you to discover for yourself just where Texas stands in the world of wine. All of these are
available in Texas through local retailers and directly from the wineries.

This exercise will no doubt prove eye-opening, as it forces you to set aside biases or misperceptions, and
will likely lead you to a few new Texas favorites.

Albariño
It’s made from a white grape most commonly associated with the Galician Rías Baixas region of
northwestern Spain, but also grown in Portugal and more recently in the United States. Noted for its bright
acidity and light body, Albariño offers characteristic notes of fruity gum and lush stone fruit framed by
richness and often hints of salinity, particularly in its native Spanish home along the Iberian coast. These
wines are an ideal pairing for seafood, especially shellfish.

The Selections:

2017 Pedernales Cellars Albariño, Texas High Plains, $30

2017 Burgans Albariño, Spain, $13

Chardonnay
One of the world’s most planted white grapes, Chardonnay originated in the Burgundy region of France.
As the leading variety in the region, it’s often simply referred to as White Burgundy, Bourgogne Blanc. In
Burgundy, Chardonnay wines are often a little higher in acidity, with earthier characteristics and a fruit
finish that offers a more tart, rather than ripe, impression. Common descriptors include yellow apple, ripe
pear, quince, melon, and peach. These wines often see some oak as well, but more often during
fermentation and in neutral barrels. White Burgundy pairs best with lobster and scallops, veal, poultry,
and cheese. The wines of Chablis, the region just north of Burgundy, are also exclusively made from
Chardonnay and marked by particularly high acidity, tart fruit flavors of green apple, green pear, and
lemon, along with white flowers and stony notes.

In the New World, Chardonnay has taken on a different identity both in flavor and texture. This is
particularly the case in California, which in general produces Chardonnay with a broader palate, creamier
texture, and heavier alcohol. Much of this is due to the warmer climate, which yields riper fruit and higher
alcohol content along with a heavier use of oak aging, particularly in newer barrels. Common descriptors
would include ripe red and yellow apple, baked pear, lemon curd, ripe apricot, mango, and pineapple, as
well as buttered popcorn, toast, and pie crust.

The Selections:

2018 Fall Creek Vineyard Vintner’s Selection Chardonnay, Texas Hill Country, $22

2018 Georges Duboeuf “Flower Label” Mâcon-Villages, France, $18

Chenin Blanc
Though it’s not often obvious on the label, when you see a French white wine labeled as Vouvray,
Savenièrres, or Saumur, you can be sure that the grape used for these wines is Chenin Blanc. With it
origins in the cool climate of the Loire Valley of France, Chenin Blanc is one of the most versatile of all
grape varieties with the ability produce a range of styles, including sweet dessert wines, bone-dry table
wines, and elegant sparkling wines. Beyond the Loire, Chenin has found homes in South Africa, the
Central Valley of California, and in Texas, where some vineyard plantings have been growing for more
than thirty years.

The Selections:

2017 McPherson Cellars Chenin Blanc, Texas High Plains, $14

Alheit Vineyards “Cartology” Bush Vines, South Africa, $40

Sauvignon Blanc
This straw-toned grape originated in Bordeaux, France, where it is often accented by Semillon and
Muscadelle for dry white wine and is a key player in the glorious dessert-style wine Sauternes. Sauvignon
Blanc from the Loire Valley region of Sancerre is known for its radiant tart lemon character with vibrant
acidity and textural minerality—and even a smoky, flinty character when it’s Pouilly-Fumé. But this iconic
grape has also found a happy home in New Zealand. Grown most prevalently in that country’s
Marlborough region, Sauvignon has garnered a distinctive identity for offering wines with racing acidity
and notes of lemon zest, lime pulp, pithy grapefruit, white daisy, tropical fruit, and fresh herbs. Other
regional producers include Chile, Australia, and the U.S.

The Selections:

2018 Spicewood Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc, Texas Hill Country, $20

2015 Craggy Range Single Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc, New Zealand, $20

Vermentino
Primarily grown on the Italian island of Sardinia and in parts of Tuscany, Vermentino often produces
bright, refreshing wines leading with citrus notes, including lemon, lime, and white grapefruit, along with
green apple and hints of bitter almond. Un-oaked, Vermentino is light and crisp, with a slightly weightier
body due to the warmer climates from which it derives, but it is also possible to find Vermentino that has
been aged in oak, which serve as a delicious alternative to New World Chardonnay. A few New World
regions have also found success with Vermentino, particularly around California’s Paso Robles and
Texas.

The Selections:

2017 Duchman Family Winery Vermentino, Texas High Plains, $20

2011 Rocca delle Macìe Occhio a Vento Vermentino, Italy, $14

Viognier
One of the iconic white grapes of the northern Rhône Valley of France, Viognier holds sway for those who
adore radiantly aromatic wines. At its peak ripeness, Viognier unfurls lush floral aromas co-mingled with
fleshy apricot and hints of crème frâiche. For those who love the creaminess of oaked Chardonnay with
less-pronounced notes of vanilla and baking spice, Viognier is the answer. Though the Rhône Valley’s
Condrieu subregion is what put the grape on the map, notable producers from California, Australia,
Virginia, and Texas have also found great success. Classic examples of wines from this grape are soft
and supple with balanced, yet broad, silky palates offering aromas of honeysuckle, ripe peach, and
orange blossom. In Condrieu, these wines tend cost a premium, making good Texas selections a great
alternative.

The Selections:

2017 Brennan Vineyards Viognier Reserve, Texas High Plains, $20

2016 Guigal Condrieu, France, $60

Rosé
This trendy, pink-hued style of wine is loved for its fresh, fruity, and versatile characteristics. Though rosé
is originally the French term for this style of wine, it can also be found in Spain as Rosado, in Italy as
Rosato, and in Germany as Weissherbst. Though produced via a number of different methods, this style
of wine is made from the juice of red grapes that has remained in contact with the red skins for varying
amounts of time. (Sometimes the juice of white grapes is also blended in.)

The Selections:

2018 Tatum Cellars Rosé, Texas Hill Country, $25

2017 Château Gassier Côtes de Provence Esprit Gassier Rosé, France, $17

Red Wines
Cabernet Sauvignon
Perhaps the world’s most-planted grape, Cabernet Sauvignon originated in Bordeaux as a cross between
Cabernet Franc and Sauvignon Blanc. Known for making wines with big, robust flavors and both high
tannin and high acidity, Cabernet Sauvignon varies in style depending on where it is produced. In
Bordeaux, the wines are aged in primarily neutral French oak and are almost always blended with Merlot,
Cabernet Franc, Malbec, and Petite Verdot. Bordeaux Cabernet-dominant blends express greater smoky
and savory qualities with pronounced earthiness, leather, tobacco, and dark dried fruits, such as black
currant and plum.

Elsewhere in the Old World, Cabernet played a significant role in the emergence of Super Tuscan wines,
which are red wine blends containing Sangiovese, along with a percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon, or
other Bordeaux grape varieties.

In the New World, Cabernet Sauvignon has garnered iconic status in Napa Valley, California. Here wines
are more commonly found as single variety Cabernet offerings with pronounced ripe fruit-forward
characteristics such as baked blackberry, currant jam, and fleshy plum. You’ll also find Cabernet in
Australia, Chile, Washington State, and Texas.

The Selections:

2016 Bending Branch Winery Cabernet Sauvignon, Texas High Plains, $42

2015 Hedges Family Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, Washington, $40

Cabernet Blend
Though many have grown accustomed to seeing single-variety Cabernet Sauvignon from iconic U.S.
regions like Napa Valley, it’s actually a grape that’s more commonly blended with other Bordeaux
varieties including Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec, and Petit Verdot. These “helping hands” help soften
Cabernet Sauvignon where it’s a little rough around the edges and strengthen its flavor profile in more
difficult vintages. This is what Bordeaux wine is all about: blending. While many people associate
Bordeaux with Cabernet, you may be surprised to know that the majority of wine produced in the
Bordeaux region is led by Merlot. Blending Bordeaux varietals is also an area where Texas excels.

The Selections:

2017 William Chris Vineyards Hunter, Texas High Plains, $42

2015 Château Sainte-Catherine Cadillac, France , $14

Cabernet Franc
Cabernet Franc may take a backseat to Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot in Bordeaux blends, but it
actually pre-dates both of these regional leaders. In fact, it’s one of the parent grapes to Cabernet
Sauvignon, Merlot, and Carménère. In France, Cabernet Franc offers a peppery zip and leaner structure
to Bordeaux blends, while it often stands on its own in the Loire Valley in regions such as Chinon, Anjou,
Bourgueil, and Saumur. Here, the wines are elegant, herbaceous, and slightly bitter with bright acidity
from these cooler climate regions. Because of its leaner, more delicate structure, oak is used sparingly
with Cabernet Franc. In the New World, Cabernet Franc presents with lush fruitiness and a heftier
structure due to warmer climates in California, Chile, Argentina, Washington, and Australia. These wines
often see quite a bit of oak bringing more pronounced vanilla, cedar, and baking spice characteristics.

The Selections:

2017 Becker Vineyards Reserve Cabernet Franc, Texas High Plains, $40

2016 Domaine Guiberteau, France, ~$45

Malbec
Malbec originated in France as a one of the five Bordeaux Blend grapes. It can be found as a single-
variety wine in the smaller Bordeaux subregion of Cahors. Malbec rose to fame in its second home of
Argentina where it is grown throughout much of the country, but primarily in the central region of
Mendoza. These wines are often full-bodied and slightly grippy in texture with an inky black color that
fades to purple-magenta edges along the rim. Fruit characteristics are concentrated blackberry and plum
backed by notes of vanilla, tobacco, and cocoa bean.

The Selections

2016 Lost Draw Cellars Malbec, Texas High Plains, $48

2015 Domaine Bousquet Grande Reserve Malbec, Argentina, $18

Montepulciano
One of the most planted red grapes in Italy, second to Sangiovese, Montepulciano’s most prized
examples are found in Abruzzo in central and southern Italy. Typically known for its weighty body with
approachable tannins and balanced acidity, Montepulciano offers notes of dark ripe plum and earthy dried
figs, dried herbs, and black pepper. These wines have often been described as rustic and earthy, with
rich fruit concentration and an easy-drinking structure.

The Selections:

2017 Burklee Hill Montepulciano, Texas High Plains, $25

2016 Cantina Zaccagnini Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, Italy, $16

Rhône Blend
Aside from Bordeaux, the Rhône Valley of France is most prized for its red blends. Here, in the sun-
baked soils of this Mediterranean region, grapes such as Syrah, Grenache, Mourvèdre, Carignan, and
Cinsault have become iconic. Rarely do you find these grapes in single-variety wines—with a few notable
exceptions. By and large, Rhône wines are more than the sum of their parts. These wines often exhibit
warm peppery notes along with dried lavender and figs, and rich dark earth in a full, tannic structure.
Lamb is a classic pairing with Rhône Valley Syrah, but braised and grilled meats of any kind are also
excellent matches. In recent years, Rhône red blends have taken off in regions such as Paso Robles,
Washington, and Texas.

The Selections:

2016 McPherson Cellars EVS Windblown Red, Texas High Plains, $13

2016 Château l’Ermitage Costières de Nîmes, France, $11

Tempranillo
The leading red grape of Spain, Tempranillo earned its name for being early (temprano) to bud and early
to pick during harvest. Though associated with the Spanish regions of La Rioja and Ribera del Duero,
Tempranillo is also widely grown in Portugal, where it’s known as Tinta Rortiz and Aragonêz. These wines
tend to offer earth-driven notes of tobacco, leather, and dust along with kalamata olive, and sweet
balsamic vinegar followed by red strawberry, cherry, and dried fig notes. Many Spanish Tempranillo wines
(particularly from La Rioja) are aged in American oak, resulting in wines with notes of dill and coconut. In
the past decade, Texas in particular has championed this grape as one of its star performers.

The Selections

2016 Llano Estacado Winery THP Tempranillo, Texas High Plains, $25

2017 Emilio Moro Finca Resalso Tempranillo, Spain, $16

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Dec 3, 2019
Circulation 10,650

The Wines of Rías Baixas

BY ANDREW KLEIN

We received the product for review and all opinions are our own.

Over the past few years we have started to see more Texas wines made from the Albariño grape. As we
see a wine grape used more in Texas, I like to learn more about its origin. When we learn more about a
wine grape’s origin, we gain a better understanding of how those with generations of experience have
had success with their wines. The Albariño grape is native to the Rias Baixas (pronounced “rhee-yus by-
shus”) region of Spain. Rias Baixas is located in Galicia, an area of northwestern Spain on the Atlantic
Ocean, just north of the border with Portugal. The geography of Rias Baixas features four inlets that
provide an outlet for cool Atlantic winds and salty air to work their way throughout the region. This
influences the wine grapes throughout the five sub-regions of Rias Baixas.

Albariño is known to be a very food friendly white wine, with high acidity, medium alcohol, and a flavor
profile that compliments and doesn’t overpower many foods. What better way to learn more about
Albariño wines than to pair them with my family’s Thanksgiving dinner? My family and I tried two
Albariños wines from Rias Baixas with our Thanksgiving dinner.

Bodegas Fillaboa Seleccion Finca Monte Alto
Fillaboa Seleccion Finca Monte Alto is made from estate grapes from a plot that is about 150 meters in
elevation. The plot is close to the Miño River which provides its sandy loam soil. This 100% Albariño wine
shows a pale straw color in the glass. It has aromas of lemon, baked green apple, saline, and a bready
character from its extended aging of 12 months on lees. On the palate it has flavors of grapefruit, lemon-
lime soda, and honeydew melon. The wine has a long finish supported by bright acidity and flavors of
lemon and fresh baked bread. 13.5% ABV www.bodegasfillaboa.com

Altos de Torona Albariño
Altos de Torona Albariño is made from grapes sustainably farmed at a vineyard in the O Rosal region of
Rias Baixas. The vineyard is at an elevation of 200 to 350 meters with sandy granitic soil. This 100%
Albariño wine shows a straw yellow color in the glass. It has medium-plus intensity on the nose with
aromas of honeydew, green apple, Meyer lemon, apricot, and saline. On the palate it gives flavors of
lemon, grapefruit, saline, mineral, and some of the oily texture that is noteworthy in some Albariños.
Bright acidity and minerality support a long finish. 13% ABV www.altosdetorona.com

Both of the Albariños proved their food friendliness with our Thanksgiving dinner of smoked turkey,
dressing, sweet potato casserole, mashed potatoes, and what seemed like countless other dishes. While
enjoying these wines on Thanksgiving I got to see how vineyard location, even in the same region, and
winemaking style can lead to notably different wines. The Altos de Torona has brighter acidity and more
fruit focused flavors and aromas, while still showing the classic Albariño salinity and oily characteristics.
While the Finca Monte Alto showed more body with more focused savory aromas and flavors, I’d
recommend both as an easy match when serving a wide variety of foods. If you’d like to learn more about
the wines of Rias Baixas, check out www.riasbaixaswines.com. For those looking to try how Texas

Albariño wines compare to their Old World counterparts, McPherson Cellars, Pedernales Cellars, and
Lost Draw Cellars all make great Texas Albariño wines.

Dec 6, 2019
Circulation 24,740,000

Easy Weeknight Recipe: Lentil Soup with Lemon Yogurt Cream

By EMMA CHRISTENSEN

Lentil soup has a lot going for it. You can make a big pot of it in about thirty minutes, which will then last
all week. One bowl is hearty and filling enough to last you to the next meal, but it’s also one of the
healthiest dishes you can put on the table. And if you think of lentil soup as bland and boring, it’s time to
get cozy with the spice cupboard.

The truth is that I, myself, was among those who always thought of lentil soup as bland and boring. And
mushy. I remember trying it in restaurants and not understanding the appeal of this brown-colored and
brown-tasting soup.

But lentil soup made at home is a different dish entirely. For one thing, you can control the cooking.
Lentils cook in about 20 to 30 minutes, at which point they are completely tender but hold their shape.
Mushy lentils come from overcooking or sitting on a warming plate for too long.

Cooking lentil soup at home, you also have the advantage of your spice cupboard. Cumin is always a
winner, and I like to add a good scoop of smoked paprika to give the earthy flavor of the lentils a little
depth. Cinnamon has also found its way into my lentil soup recipe. I love the warm spiciness it gives the
soup. I also like adding a squeeze of lemon at the very end to brighten the flavors.

There’s not much you can do about the brown color, however. That’s just lentil soup for you. A swirl of
creamy yogurt and a sprinkle of parsley can perk up the bowls as you carry them to the table and sit
down to eat.

Lentil Soup with Lemon Yogurt Cream
MAKES
about 8 cups of soup

INGREDIENTS
4 slices thick-cut bacon, chopped, or 1 tablespoon olive oil
1 yellow onion, diced small
1 large or 2 small carrots, diced small
3 celery stalks, diced small
2 cloves garlic, minced
2 tablespoons tomato paste
1 tablespoon smoked paprika
1 teaspoon cumin
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
1 1/2 cups green or brown lentils
6 cups chicken or vegetable broth
1 bay leaf
1/2 cup yogurt
Zest and juice from 1 lemon
Minced parsley to serve

INSTRUCTIONS
Set a 6-quart or larger pot over medium heat. Add the bacon and cook slowly until the fat is rendered and
the bacon is crispy. Remove the bacon with a slotted spoon and transfer to a paper towel. Pour off all but
1 tablespoon of the bacon fat. If using olive oil, simply heat the oil and continue to the next step.
Turn the heat to medium-high and cook the onion until it softens and starts becoming translucent, about 5
minutes. Add the carrots and celery, and cook for another minute or two. Stir in the garlic, tomato paste,
paprika, cumin, salt, and cinnamon. Cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds.
Add the lentils, broth, and bay leaf to the pan and stir. Bring to a boil, and then reduce the heat to low.
Simmer, uncovered, for 20 to 30 minutes until the lentils are soft (exact cooking time will depend on your
lentils). Taste and add salt and pepper as needed. Stir the reserved bacon into the soup, or sprinkle it
right on top of each bowl.
Whisk together the yogurt, lemon zest, and lemon juice. Add a dollop of this yogurt sauce to each bowl as
you serve and sprinkle the tops with parsley.
RECIPE NOTES
Storage: Lentil soup will keep refrigerated for up to a week or freeze in individual portions for up to three
months.

Wine Recommendation from Mary Gorman McAdams This lentil soup is both spicy and warming so we
need a nice wine that can either complement or contrast these bold flavors. Fruity white wines are always
a great contrast for spicy foods. With this dish I would suggest an Albariño from Rías Baixas, Spain or an
off-dry Washington State Riesling. If you particularly like heat and spice, you may prefer a red wine,
whereby the tannins will accentuate the spice and heat. With this dish I would reach for either a
Valpolicella from the Veneto in Italy or a California Pinot Noir, both sufficiently fruity to balance the spicy
flavors, yet neither too full-bodied to overpower it.
• 2010 Burgáns Albariño, Rías Baixas, $14 – Mouthwateringly juicy and jam-packed with flavors of peach,
apricot, orange citrus, pink lady apple with a subtle spicy finish.
• 2010 Viviani Valpolicella, Veneto, Italy, $17 – Unoaked, fresh, juicy, ample bright cherry-berry flavors.
Supple tannins give the wine a nice framing grip. .
Mary Gorman-McAdams, MW (Master of Wine), is a New York based wine educator, freelance writer and
consultant.

December 7, 2019
Circulation 5.600.000

Is All Wine Better With Age? These White Wine Producers Think So

Stephanie Cain
When master sommelier Michael Meagher went to Rías Baixas, a region on the southwestern coast of
Spain near Portugal, he expected to drink plenty of Albariño. It’s the name of both a grape variety and a
local white wine that’s typically consumed within a year of harvest. Its bracing acidity, light body, and
fresh fruit flavors perfectly complement the area’s daily catch, seafood tapas, and cheese.
What was unusual was that he was served a 15-year-old Albariño.
“It was still bright, young and complex, and you could see the hallmarks of what Albariño was in this
wine,” Meagher says. “But you also had echoes of aged Riesling and aged Chardonnay, because that’s
what we think of for aged white wine. There’s been a lot of experimentation by [Rías Baixas] winemakers
to give Albariño the treatment of a quality Chardonnay from Burgundy, and it’s been incredibly
successful.”

Most Albariño wine you’ll encounter is light and fresh. It is often served as an aperitif, alongside
appetizers of raw fish such as ceviche, or sipped on a warm day in the sun. It’s not traditionally cellared,
as it’s generally drunk within a year or two of bottling. It’s produced in nearby Portugal as well, where it
goes by the name of Alvarinho. There, it’s often blended into Vinho Verde, meaning “green wine”—a term
in reference to its youthful character.
While most of the wine is consumed quickly, more and more producers are experimenting with the
potential of aging the variety. They are looking at ways to enhance efficiency in the vineyards but, most

interestingly, using alternative methods during production and putting the bottles away for years to see
what happens. At first, one may think they are just hopping on the bandwagon that believes older wine is
better, but the grape has some critical characteristics that align well with aging.
Meagher explains that there are characteristics of a wine that signal to a producer that it can be aged.
Like popular aged varieties Riesling, Chardonnay, and Semillon, Albariño demonstrates a high level of
natural acidity. That’s enhanced by the cool climate where it is grown along the Iberian coast. Acidity acts
like a natural preservative to protect the wine from bacterial growth. “Cool climates inhibit maturity of the
seeds,” he adds. “Grapes are ripe but not as ripe as someplace like California or Argentina.”
The grape also stands up to lees aging, a process by which wine is kept in contact with the dead yeast
particles. This adds complexity to the wine, but aging on lees also helps protect the wine from oxidation,
another factor contributing to its ability to age. Lees scavenge for free oxygen in the barrel, prohibiting it
from binding with sulfur—a preservative—and maintaining the sulfur levels in the vessel. Some
producers, like Granbazán, age on the lees for a few months; others, like Paco y Lola, keep the wine on
the lees for more than a year.

Rías Baixas’s Albariño producers aren’t the only ones playing around with aging white wines. In Rioja,
another area of Spain, winemaker Maria Jose López de Heredia ages her three white wines from six to
10 years. As the great-granddaughter of the founder of R. López de Heredia Viña Tondonia, she is
continuing that tradition they have always done: make white wines like their reds. For López de Heredia,
it’s the durability of the Viura and Malvasia grapes that allow her to age the wine. “It is generally believed
that white wines, unlike reds, will not stand the test of time,” she says. “However, the way we make our
wines has not changed since the 19th century. The grapes have a concentration of aroma and color,
which, when turned into wine, gives it a complexity that continues to develop for many years.”

López de Heredia explained that both Viura and Malvasia exhibit the necessary preservatives for aging
wines: the right levels of acid, alcohol, and tannins. She also credits their natural winemaking techniques
as critical to the longevity of their wines. It’s not unusual to walk into a wine store and see an older
vintage of López de Heredia Viña Gravonia Crianza, Viña Tondonia Reserva, or Viña Tondonia Gran
Reserva on the shelf. In fact, the current releases are 2010, 2006, and 1996, respectively.

Similarly, France’s Languedoc region has long been known for its sleeper value wines, some standout
bottles at a fraction of the cost, thanks to it being less recognizable than regions like Bordeaux and
Burgundy. While the area has found success with red wines, the smaller production of white wine is
where winemaker Vianney Fabre found the most experimentation. As owner of Château d’Anglès in the
AOC La Clape, he grows the white Bourboulenc grape and believes it helps age his wines for 15-plus
years. The “structuring grape,” as he calls it, makes up at least 40 percent of the blend of his white wines,
along with Grenache Blanc, Roussanne, Marsanne, Viognier, and Vermentino.

He first noticed the potential when aging the Bourboulenc in barrels for the Grand Vin White. He credits
the grape’s tannic structure as key to its ability to age. “The Bourboulenc was so beautiful when in
barrels, we thought time aging would not be a problem,” Fabre says. He started cellaring bottles in 2002.
“Bourboulenc is a tannic grape,” he adds. “Tannins are antioxidants. Aging is about gentle oxidation, so
Bouboulenc has a fantastic aging potential.”

Meagher explained that it’s all reflective of the maturity of the wine industry as a whole. The idea of aging
wines in general is a rather new concept in the history of wine consumption. It was not until the economic
boom of the 1980s and 1990s that “connoisseur culture” blossomed and private collectors began
stockpiling Bordeaux and Burgundy, creating a scarcity on the market. Prices soared, and producers
could pour money into experimentation in the cellar and hold bottles to age for years before releasing to
the market.

Now “secondary” regions—regions once overshadowed by household names like Napa Valley, Burgundy,
and Tuscany—have become more mainstream, Rías Baixas included, and that allows them to use
resources in similar ways. “Poor regions like Rías Baixas and Vinho Verde didn’t have the money to sit on
the wines for years, so they made them to be drunk young,” Meagher says. Quick sales were key to
staying afloat. But now they have the buffer, financially, to experiment in the cellar.

Aging does command a premium price too. When a winemaker holds onto wine in his or her cellar, that
overhead cost is passed along to the end consumer. For example, Paco y Lola’s 2012 vintage Albariño
retails for almost double its 2018 counterpart.

But for the most part, producers are just trying to cover their costs. López de Heredia explained that they
add in the cost of aging to their white Rioja, but nothing more. “For us, it’s a way of making wine, not a
marketing decision,” she says, adding that she does think the market is looking for unique and rare wines.
For Rioja, they don’t have to invent something: “We have the history, and there are producers that are
willing to recuperate it.”

For producers in Rías Baixas, 15-year-old Albariño isn’t remotely close to the norm; you’ll more commonly
encounter a young vintage and certainly have to seek to find older Albariño. But producers are continuing
to push the limits of the region. “Producers are investing in their cellars and in winemaking techniques
that are more expensive,” Meagher says. “The resources are being allocated to ‘Can these wines live up
to a more accepted global standard of age-worthiness?’ and the answer is yes.”

December 11, 2019
Circulation 2,370,000

The 50 Best Wines of 2019

Vinepair

It’s been another wine-filled year at the VinePair HQ, and while the months passed by in a blur, 50 bottles
stood out above the rest and etched a place in our memories. To help readers enter the new year (and
decade!) with a list of wonderful experiences to discover with a glass in hand, we’re sharing our top 50
wines of 2019.

As in previous years, this annual ranking tells a story in 50 bottles. These labels are not only the wines we
enjoyed the most over the past 12 months; they’re what we consider to represent the most important
trends in wine right now.

Leading the conversation is the class and quality offered by American Chardonnay. The days of “anything
but Chardonnay” became a distant memory when we tasted the bottles of several domestic producers,
who are highlighting the wonders and nuance of the world’s most popular white variety.

As the months went on, we became increasingly excited about Spanish wines, especially those from less
explored regions, grapes, and producers. Our staff, panelists, and wine director agree Spain is currently
offering some of the best value for money, and most exciting drinking experiences right now.

It’s also been a year of triumphant comebacks from grapes that, but for the noble work of a few
producers, could have become extinct. Italy more than any other nation proved notably nostalgic in this
respect.

All wines in this ranking were first sampled and reviewed by VinePair’s tasting department. We then
compiled a “short list” of bottles that received an A+ or A rating and whittled that list down to 50 wines
using multiple criteria.

All bottles must be readily available in the U.S., offer great value for money, and be drinking well right
now. None of the wines from last year’s list could be considered for inclusion, and we placed a limit of one
bottle per winery.

The VinePair staff then debated and debated again where each bottle should place. We finally tasted the
potential top 10 multiple times to cement our final ranking.

When Albariño is “done” right, the wine’s intense acidity is matched by concentrated fruit flavors. This
bottle is one such success story, with mouthwatering acidity that seems to magnify flavors of lemon,
ginger, dried apricots, and wet stones. It is an ideal pre-dinner bottle, pairing well with Spanish cheeses,
almonds, and salty olives.

December 12, 2019
Circulation 2,370,000

Paco & Lola Albariño 2018, Rías Baixas, Spain

Vinepair
Sometimes, the most exciting wines turn out to be the ones you just grab from a wine-store shelf or cooler
and bring home and taste, not knowing anything about them beyond what’s on the label.
That was the case the other night when I needed a fresh white wine and chose a bottle of Paco & Lola
2018 Albariño from the Rías Baixas region of Galicia in northwest Spain.
This $18 wine is a quintessential example of Albariño: white flowers and apple on the nose followed by
crisp pear and apple notes, some tropical fruit, and a layer of cream and herbs on the long finish. This is a
fresh wine, aged in stainless steel, with lively acidity, moderate alcohol (13 percent ABV), and a good
deal of complexity.
It’s a perfect choice for a range of simply prepared fish and shellfish dishes and for sipping on its own as
an aperitif.

While there is a great deal of emphasis these days on small-production, artisanal wines (and a sense that
they must be “better”), Paco & Lola occupies a kind of middle ground between limited-production and
macro wines.
And as its delightful Albariño shows, when you land on the right one, they can be as satisfying as any
wine you can find.

Dec 15, 2019
Circulation 10,000

Pazo Pondal Albariño 2017

By Joey Casco

Pazo Pondal was founded in 2006 and is dedicated to protecting the environment with sustainability. "Our
goal is to ensure that there is minimal risk of the wine’s aromatic and organoleptic properties being
altered through exposure of the grapes to certain chemical products. We are seeking to obtain organic
grapes in a sustainable and balanced manner, preserving the fertility of the soil and respecting the
biodiversity of the environment. Everyone working for us and with us strives to achieve this sustainability
objective." Read more about Pazo Pondal by clicking here.

Oh man, do I love Albariño! Maybe it's because I'm from Cape Cod and it goes so well with the local
cuisine here. I really don't know anything about this one other than it's from 13 hectares of "Franco sandy
and slightly acidic soil", and that it has a 13% ABV. So let's make this one quick and start drinkin'!

The wine is medium gold in color with aromas of white flowers, melon, pears, lemon zest, and ginger. On
the palate it's medium bodied with a creamy and rounded mouthfeel and zesty acidity. There's favors of
green apples, pears, and lemon. Then it finishes with green apples and a refreshing hint of mint.

So what we have here is a nice creamy bodied, fruit forward, happy wine! I like it, my wife likes it more,
and I don't know how anybody could be upset dropping $20 on it. Who wants scallops?