National Geographic Traveller - Indonesia

Indonesia
D I S C O V E R&AALNACNI EDNOTFCMUALTRUI NREE M A R V E L S

Lake Toba +BALI
BEACHES
Explore the world’s BOROBUDUR
largest crater lake

Labuan Bajo

48 hours: volcanic islets
& Komodo dragons

Likupang

An insider’s guide to diving
in the Coral Triangle

6
1

2 5
34

1 LAKE TOBA, SUMATRA 3 UBUD, BALI 5 LABUAN BAJO, FLORES
Home to the Indigenous A spiritual heartland for The gateway to Komodo
Batak people culture and festivities National Park

2 BOROBUDUR, JAVA 4 MANDALIKA, LOMBOK 6 LIKUPANG, SULAWESI
The world’s largest A resort welcoming a Home to sandy beaches
Buddhist temple and marine wildlife
new wave of tourism

2 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel

National GeographicTraveller (UK) CHMTCJKADCHaredaaoaeeaamvrmnamaatvrimtnddeniephmlysllooKaeoPlBPeeffwiihSglererNClicannegMl—aaliensgdiamtpzi,iTdliT,esGoDpewBh,nnaaMaioe,oarbmiJbergCalrotcinrG:Johenktasellaola:lSoaetrWahMfgc:l,artmiilianllokoipanonhmv:iacA, llen Eldeitttoerr’shen you picture Indonesia, what springs to
DECFJSCACDAACDEPPEoaeddxrrnooohsseeioogrnessiiFpgnpamnittjjioiicdelrnueetoutosoelmucaaelccottortrartilytanyitt:crZtaiEaiLEPnstAEthDveMEtldeodsadteEeeysdDiiictciWgCrdsinotEtiEtia-GRiiotoainroodstdCtoitierlaogrteirnodiiorr:na:ctsltrvlot:rSdvoloJaE:ngteeiA:saaeoomrdrtrnsEmr:l::nsri,latd-tSGN:eZehEoEMaiplilatvrecdicBhoan:aanohiaiNrernDtnla:rMioaosaeHruSreTrugPPe:calrgtlinrouWeeairgcplrnyiaien,llgaya
APL Media mind? Is it the postcard-worthy sandy
OBHSSDPuereiepagabnaebmidMEtrbaaduoiultesifrtMiorMSoKaunaraycsrbsu,D:kKrMECeeadhtrariirmentniosnagorHYgtsMteao: trHrae:tnaosnanng, aehr:Doherty MSMCahaalietnetsafhDgEeixwinreegJccaDutctoikrirves:eocA:tnloAernx:tVhiognnyalLi eyens
CAAHdhPeraaLimdsBDouFfesoibCxnb,oeCimsnysnmnDeteyher-viWcaeiLalroailgpSwhmtrtreaentncetegTye:am: Wbeaches? The plethora of dramatic
SKALAPeiierrzcnttltlOiDEyuowdrMirreieeDtcEnocKedsrtse,:oiitDnLgrona:enruaBa:ernOe(remcsRlnl:kayeLAytyPaetRnuurkenorgindeilltdisnmyssoiG,lanena-aSmvmep)i,th Office Manager: Hayley Rabin
RACHAarcceemccadoodoiuutnonnMafttFMssainMnAcaaSsagnshniecasarwetg:a:,CeRnRrrytea:saSki:gniionCMbPhhcaaaStpnehplaGewrllover landscapes? The ancient monuments scattered across its
JPPorrooeddMuueccnttiidooonnnMCcaoannatrgoelrl:eDr:aniel Gregory 17,000 islands? Or maybe it’s the Coral Triangle, teeming
with vibrant fish and coral reefs? You’ll find all this and
nEUSNSaaudnatlbiiteittoissoo3cn/r1nrAai0iaalpdg,lltmeHTGioo:iiegng0noh2srTgag0:Tpar0:7aht20e2pi0c15hS.237cit9cou2935d.T9u33ri0koa169/sv2t,.9rea5e10lvl63d9ee.6-irt7lF.o9(:nrU0iaHaK2tlig0@g)[email protected],sslaLblueloyebrn.ssAcd@coPorn.LiunpaMkttNigoeWendoh5itaer1alLpTvimlLeinliletee.rcd.co,o.u.ukk much more inside this special issue.
RNTNheaaepttiiirooronnedaanulltciGGrteieeooocnoggwnrraatietpphnhhotiiscuctaTPprraearrvitponerrelolpertsere,rc(LmUtLeKiCds)s.ibisFoyopnrcuiosmbplfoioysrrrhebiegiiddhntfdbo2eyr0nmA2.a1PEtLviaoenMnrdyecadcolailnarrteiaLgtcihsdtttnusaankatdergeenerroienl.isccceoeormnvmse/epidnif.lfriono.gm
aepothcfriecftNeitncucagotrteniaoostrnneiusansianltensGgdyoetiofhnortefghocrreelraamfpmirmoahatmisicgom.aTnRzraiawendvaheeedi,lcbelbheyrursiatsmadtcrhaveoegenarapttdzaiusivinbneiseelreissdad.hcietcnorestphsaeteseasmknuyampglreioaafzbneioinsliestriye.oNsfnpoeaoriltnvahisdeeibwvr iiAsclietPeyLxbipeMnrfetoehsdreseieadL,td The beguiling surrounds of Lake Toba — home to the
Indigenous Batak people — are the inspiration for our
National Geographic Partners International Publishing main feature (p.4). Elsewhere, we explore the fishing
DGECdhaeivantiioedrmrrMaiaalilnlMlDe: ariGrneaacrgytoeErr.,:KNSnuGeslalMneGdoiald:berg SSSeeennniiiooorrr DMViiacreencaPtgroeerrs::iAdRreoienslts:aDnYeauialiSactoeP-l.lLaBoohyrle village of Labuan Bajo (p.14), celebrate a sacred holiday in
International Editions Headquarters Bali (p.10), quiz a local diver on the marine life of the
EDETDrddaeaiirpnttrooeusnlrrta:iyatSLilEmoeDdinigtiithrhMoeMrcaitnaiotlanrgD:iceAikrrme: cByteoKarot:laczNaaks 1145 17th St. NW, Washington, DC resort of Likupang (p.16), and chat to creative locals about
MRBEFTGLFKCRUUardaoEauaAkSRRn-tinztsSNyKtMtzoahuIeeECAiAnsmr;loYEbs;NeINnvNi:eRGoYEaSCOrLe;TanWgaiHMsLHmbn;AiIVeENbArPk;TaiRreOaNAeSInsLNrPlIiLeABSaAnAJAArNnoa;oINCMNSt;pSDsDaOiIEhSeTeJtRAUipoAfaAeIeTLCslhgriYrHHanAn-;nDnMuoKIiGCNeaeORaDlrsnzauRruzaIcguEAikizioa;Adza;;eia; 20036-4688, USA what makes their country so unique (p.8).
National Geographic Partners returns
27% of its proceeds to the nonprofit So, whether you’re planning a trip or just whiling away an
National Geographic Society to fund hour or two, join us as we celebrate all things Indonesia.
work in the areas of science, exploration,
conservation and education. FARIDA ZEYNALOVA, EDITOR
@FaridaZeynalova

CONTENTS SPONSORED BY

4 Ancient culture in Lake Toba indonesia.travel
8 Get to know the locals @indtravel
10 Big picture: Borobudur @indonesia.travel
12 A day of silence in Ubud, Bali @indtravel
14 A weekend in Labuan Bajo
16 Meet a local diving guide
18 Top beaches in Likupang

Copyright © 2021 National Geographic Partners, LLC. All Rights Reserved. National ON THE COVER:
Geographic Traveller and the Yellow Border Design are registered trademarks of Manta Point, Flores island // Image: Getty
National Geographic Society and used under license. Printed in the UK. TO CHECK THE CHSE CERTIFICATION (CLEANLINESS, HEALTH, SAFETY AND
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Indonesia 2021 3

LTOAKBAESHOORNESTOHEF

4 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel

The beguiling Lake Toba, in North Sumatra, is I’m standing at a bus stop, scratching my
hthoemweotroldp’srilsatrigneesltacnrdastcearplaekse, o. Intes soufrtrhoeucnodusnatrrey’s head in bemusement, unsure where to go
tallest waterfalls and the Batak ethnic group next. I’ve just wandered out of the air-
conditioned sanctuary of the relatively new
WORDS: JEREMY PIPER Sisingamangaraja XII International Airport
into the enervating fug of a North Sumatran
SEGAMI LWA :EGAMI aernoon. First things first: I make a dash for
the woman standing by a brightly decorated,
wooden food cart in the shadow of a roadside
tree. She’s laughing with her friends and
chewing beetle nut while fanning the
flamed-grilled corn — a succulent must-have
for travellers.

Being one of the only international
travellers to arrive on the flight, it’s easy to
get the attention of the enthusiastic taxi
drivers outside the terminal. My driver,
Kadek, soon becomes my new best friend.
He vividly describes a mystic site tucked
away in the mountains, surrounded by
lush, volcanic fields: Sipiso-Piso, a plunge
waterfall in the Batak highlands of North
Sumatra. It’s a few hours away and requires
a change to my itinerary, but ends up being
one of the most awe-inspiring experiences.

Mesmerising mists

Fed by a small underground river of the Karo
Plateau, the 394-high cascading torrent and
the surrounding landscape are mesmerising.
A mist cloud from the constant fall of water
forms above it and is lied by a light wind
before driing across a family’s home.

The hike down to the base of the falls is no
easy feat, but it’s certainly worth it. For those
who aren’t up for it, grabbing a cool drink
and fresh fruit from a street vendor while
admiring the falls from the lookout is just as
satisfying. Standing there in the cool mist,
I’m mesmerised by its sheer force. Watching
it feels rather therapeutic.

The aernoon light is falling fast so we
head back to the car. We weave round a
bend in the road, revealing breathtaking
Lake Toba, which occupies part of the

Indonesia 2021 5

INDONESIA

Batak traditional houses in a row
at Ambarita Village on Samosir
Island, Lake Toba
ABOVE FROM LEFT: Sipiso-Piso
waterfall in North Sumatra;
Indonesian woman sorting
coffee beans, Lake Toba
PREVIOUS PAGE: Samosir Island
6 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel

INDONESIA

YTTEG ;YMALA :SEGAMI caldera of dormant supervolcano Mount ago. As we get closer, I spy a traditional manner of issues concerning the welfare
Toba. The largest volcanic lake in the world, home of the Batak Toba people, nestled on of the village and its people. The stone
it looks more like an ocean, although its a hill — with its boat-shaped roof and chairs and table of Ambarita also mark the
full scale is camouflaged by the twisted ornate carvings etched along its gables. spot where local trials took place, and, on
contours of the volcanic landscape that occasion, some of those found guilty ended
contains it. A fiery pit of molten lava A short drive north is the historic, laid- up on the menu.
thousands of years ago, Lake Toba is now back village of Tuk Tuk, where I spot a
a scene of serenity as far as the eye can woman laying out hundreds of fish to Locals suggest some of the overly eager
see. These idyllic surrounds are now home cure under the sun on bamboo racks. early Christian missionaries may have
to an abundance of birdlife and native Across the road from her, another woman shared the same fate — a practice
animals such as the orangutan and the is drying rice on a hand-woven mat outside that seemingly continued until one
Malayan tapir. one of the village’s many small restaurants. German missionary, Ludwig Ingwer
I quickly fall into line with the relaxed vibe Nommensen, successfully translated the
Timeless rituals of Tuk Tuk and take the opportunity to New Testament into the Batak language
recharge and sample a cup of the locally and was spared. Some of his teachings
The following morning, we make our way to produced coffee. spread across the island, as evidenced by
Parapat, the ramshackle harbour town various picturesque, timber churches dotted
on Lake Toba’s foreshore, and hop on the Village life throughout the island.
early-morning ferry to Tomok pier on
Samosir island. The ferry glides across A little further on, the villages of Ambarita Signs of traditional village life are
the still surface of the ancient crater and Huta Siallagan — a short walk everywhere as I make my way back to get
lake. Surrounding me is a steep, tree- from each other — radiate the unique the ferry at Tomok pier: smoke rises from
lined escarpment that seems untouched culture of the local Batak ethnic group. home fires; the chatter of a few nervous
and rises abruptly from the edge of the ‘Huta’ means ‘village’, so the name of the chickens is audible; and the air is filled
freshwater catchment. A fisherman floats by latter — a stone-walled compound built with aromatic spices as locals set about
in a small, wooden longboat, checking his during the reign of the first Huta leader, preparing dinner for their families. The
net while balancing precariously. It’s a ritual King Laga Siallagan — translates as ‘the cruise back across the caldera of Lake Toba
he’s performed hundreds of times before, no village of Siallagan’. is a calm and gentle one. As we dri across
doubt, and is timeless in this setting. the water, the port of Parapat becomes a
Ancestral tombs can still be found in the postcard silhouette in the glow of the setting
Soon, we approach Samosir — the world’s area, as well as a site containing the stone sun. And that’s when I catch a glimpse of an
largest island within an island, born out of chairs and table of King Siallagan. They were Indonesian boy watching the day end from
a mammoth volcanic erruption 74,000 years where tribal leaders once met — beneath the rail of his fishing boat.
the shade of a hariara tree — to discuss all

Indonesia 2021 7

INDONESIA

MEET THE LOCALS

From a rich food scene to a plethora of natural wonders,
three Indonesians wax lyrical about their country

Radin Santo Ayu Gayatri Kresna Fransiska Anggraini KCOTSREPUS ;DOOFKCOTS ;YTTEG :SEGAMI

TOUR GUIDE, MANDALIKA, LOMBOK CO-FOUNDER/HEAD CHEF OF PENGALAMAN FOUNDER AND CURATOR OF AWESOME LASEM,
THE WORLD MAY LOVE BALI, BUT LOMBOK IS RASA RESTAURANT, NORTH BALI LASEM, CENTRAL JAVA
BALI’S MUST-TRY DISH IS BETUTU. LASEM IS A UTOPIA OF INDONESIANS
JUST AS BEAUTIFUL. Our white, sandy beaches
are less crowded and the surrounding A whole chicken or duck is covered in CELEBRATING THEIR DIVERSITY. It’s always
coastal landscapes — rolling, green hills and a complex mix of spices and aromatics been very Chinese, but there are also a few
savannah — are spectacular. As a Mandalika known as base genep, then wrapped in pesantren [Islamic boarding schools]. In coffee
local, I feel a great sense of pride sharing palm bark and roasted atop a fire of rice shops, I see Chinese mingling with Javanese,
my hometown with travellers. Over time, we husks for up to 12 hours. The tender, and it’s beautiful to hear a gamelan orchestra
hope to share some of Bali’s spotlight. smoky meat falls from the bone. It can performing at a temple to celebrate a Chinese
also be steamed in a bowl for up to five holiday. Lasemese batik [dyed cloth] motifs
MANDALIKA IS KNOWN FOR ITS ANNUAL, hours on a woodfire stove. Oſten served reflect this: Chinese motifs include phoenixes,
at Hindu ceremonies, it epitomises the dragons, chrysanthemums, goldfish and
WEEK-LONG BAU NYALE FESTIVAL. As part richness of Balinese spices. peacocks, while non-Chinese motifs, inspired
of a traditional ritual performed by the by the coastal environment, include sea
local Sasak people, hundreds flock to Seger MY JOURNEY TO BECOMING A CHEF BEGAN grapes, spilled rice and Gunung Ringgit [a
Beach to gather iridescent, green, blue and mountain], which date to the pre-Majapahit
gold sea worms (nyale), which are seen IN TRADITIONAL MARKETS. As time went era. Tolerance isn’t something you can preach;
as an incarnation of the flowing locks of on, I grew interested in learning about the you must experience it to understand how
Princess Mandalika [a figure from local sources of all the agricultural, plant, and beautiful it is to celebrate differences.
legend]. Famous for her beauty, princes from marine products. At Pengalaman Rasa, we I FIRST VISITED LASEM IN 2008. I immediately
kingdoms far and wide were desperate to curate flavour experiences that reflect local fell in love with its food, people, and batik;
marry her. Overwhelmed with choice, she artisanal products, such as naturally fed particularly the latter due to its interesting
threw herself into the sea. Once a year, an black pigs, palm sugar, coconut oil, aromatic colours and motifs. I purchased many unique
abundance of worms emerge, which locals ginger and galangal. We call our activities cloths during that first visit and photographed
believe foreshadow bountiful harvests. ‘knowing the origin’ and are advocates of a few to gauge whether anyone wanted to
mindful consumption. own them. Some friends did, so I went home
THE MOST IMPORTANT THING TOURISTS with a lot. Spying a business opportunity,
CAN DO IS HELP KEEP THE BEACHES AND SHALLOTS, GARLIC AND SALT ARE ESSENTIAL IN I contacted a few ateliers and asked for photos
SURROUNDING ENVIRONMENTS CLEAN. of their available batiks. Then, everything
INDONESIAN CUISINES. Indonesia is incredibly fell into place.
From majestic Mount Rinjani to the diverse — geographically and culturally
sparkling waters of Mandalika, we hope — and our ingredients and dishes reflect I BELIEVE ARTISTS SHOULDN’T BE
travellers respect our home and leave with that. Compared to other Indonesian
cherished memories. fare, North Balinese cuisine uses a more SALESPEOPLE. They should leave the selling
intense blend of spices, and as the region to others so they can create. This is where
WE’RE EXCITED FOR THE MOTOGP WORLD lies between the ocean, mountains and Awesome Lasem comes in: it distributes the
agricultural areas, its produce is wonderfully best batiks from ateliers around Lasem and
CHAMPIONSHIP GRAND PRIX IN MARCH 2022. varied. Farmers are still willing to plant the neighbouring district of Pancur. The
The response from the community has been local seeds, breed native chickens and brand is unique because it offers something
very supportive, and we hope it enables ducks and maintain quality each step many batik-sellers lack: storytelling. I
Mandalika to become better known to of the way. With so many fresh, seasonal position hand-drawn batiks where they
international travellers. The plan to develop ingredients, we never run out of ways belong: as works of art.
Mandalika into an integrated resort area has to introduce them to guests at
been progressing for over a decade, so it’s Pengalaman Rasa.
great to see it finally happening.

8 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel

INDONESIA

Kuta Bay, Lombok
BELOW FROM LEFT: Bebek betutu

(Balinese roast duck), batik
maker at work at Batik Seno,
a gallery in Yogyakarta, Java

Indonesia 2021 9

INDONESIA

BOROBUDURBIGPICTURE

DSiatetionfgBboarcokbaurdouurnids t1h,2e0w0oyreladr’ss,lathrgeeUstNBEuSdCdOhWisotrtledmHpelreit—agseet
amid the lush, green rice fields, jungle and misty volcanoes of
Central Java. Here are four facts about this magical site

10 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel

INDONESIA

1 Craed from around two million 2 The ancient villages that 3 EveryMayorJune, onthenight 4 MostBorobudurvisitsstartin
blocks of blue-grey andesite stone, surround Borobudur are a ofthefullmoon, thousands gather Central Java. Besides Borobudur,
without any kind of cement or signature Javanese experience at BorobudurTempleforWaisak other highlightsincludestreetfood,
mortar, the temple of Borobudur and are working towards a more Day.Thisholy festivalcelebrates awaterpalace,riverraing and
is considered an engineering sustainable, community-based Buddha’sbirth, enlightenmentand variouscras —rangingfrombatik
marvel. Detailed reliefs cover over tourism. Learn pottery in Nglipoh, freedom. Rituals include lighting a to puppetry.Thehighlight, however,
2,000sq metres across nine levels, cookery or music in Candirejo or torch fromanatural-gas flame,a istheUNESCO-listed complexof
while 72 latticed stupas contain understand the honey production procession around the temple,and Prambanan—whichisthe largest
statues of the Buddha. process in Tanjungsari. the release ofgiantpaperlanterns. Hindu temple in the country.

YTTEG :EGAMI

Indonesia 2021 11

INDONESIA

Ogoh-ogoh sculpture
of Rangda, a demon
witch queen
RIGHT: A Hindu
blesses her offerings
with holy spring
water and incense
12 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel

INDONESIA

UBUD, BALI

SPIRITA CSELE&BRATSIOINLOFENCE

Despite its reputation as a party island, much of Bali is shrouded
in ancioern‘tDtaryadoiftSioilne.nTchee’ —cotuanktersyo’svmerotshtestaocwrendoHfiUnbduudfeesatcivhayle—arNyepi,

WORDS: SACHA SCOGING

‘Stay indoors. Everything is closed. Remain Reams of colourful canang sari litter the of men and young boys emerge, each
silent,’ are the words stamped in bold on my streets. In fact, it’s almost impossible to parading a variety of grotesque, demon-like
hostel door. I’m struggling to decipher the avoid mushing one or two of these small, sculptures (known as ogoh-ogoh) along the
cryptic commands when Mr Padi, a plump banana-leaf baskets — filled with frangipani street. Made from bamboo, polystyrene
character who seems to be the only staff petals, rice and wisps of incense — amid the foam and papier-mâché, these meticulously
member at Padi-Padi Backpackers, walks droves of people. Everyone is heading to the constructed effigies represent evil spirits
in and says: “You buy all supplies tonight. palace of the Ubud royal family on Monkey from Hindu teachings.
Tomorrow, everything shut. Bali shut. Forest Road, to scope out a prime location for “Ogoh-ogoh take two month and whole
Tomorrow, silent day.” Silent day? What is the evening’s parade. lot of Bintang [an Indonesian beer] to build,”
silent day? I haven’t travelled halfway across As the night edges closer, so do the crowds; laughs Mr Padi, “but we burn them later
the world to be silent. we’re packed in now, like herded cattle at the tonight.” Burn them? I’m convinced they
I’m in Ubud, Bali’s spiritual heartland, sides of the road. Vine-draped trees tower belong in a museum, yet the Balinese believe
and it turns out I’ve unknowingly stumbled over us, while mischievous, long-tailed any evil lurking spirits — awoken by the
across one of the most significant and sacred macaques clamber across the telephone cacophony from the gamelan orchestra —
Hindu festivals on the island, Nyepi — a six- wires like tightrope-walkers. All of us are will be attracted to the island and inhabit
day celebration that ushers in the Saka New wide-eyed. Waiting. This scene feels like these effigies, which the locals then set fire to.
Year. Tonight is Nyepi Eve, so I’ve already nothing I’ve been a part of before. Papier-mâché witches with long,
missed two important rituals: Melasti, where The boisterous sounds of the gamelan protruding tongues, and ghastly babies with
whole villages congregate to purify religious orchestra herald the start of the parade. slime dripping down from their bald heads
temple objects with water from sacred Child musicians clang instruments such perched atop bloodstained, bamboo towers
springs; and the Bhuta Yajna, where livestock as the kulkul (a traditional bamboo bell), are just some of the spectacular inventions
are sacrificed to appease the gods, vanquish claxons, steel drums, gongs, cymbals and I watch trundle by. Meanwhile, monsters on
negative elements and create a balance lots of bells, resulting in a deafening mopeds, effigies of Rangda (a demon queen)
between mankind and nature. mixture of sounds. Behind them, groups on suroards, and Shreks in sunglasses are
‘Nyepi’ (meaning ‘to keep silent’) falls on among the more modern, comical creations.
the third day of the festivities and brings Steel drums, gongs and cymbals continue
the entire island to a standstill. For 24 hours, to resound at a fever-pitch, while security
Bali turns off all lights and sounds, stops all frantically blow on their whistles, urging
traffic, deserts all worldly activities, meditates us to make space, so that each ogoh-ogoh
and slips into an almost comatose state. can be rotated anti-clockwise. This ritual is
Bali goes into hiding like this, it’s said, carried out three times to bewilder any evil
to ward off evil, fooling any malevolent spirits and to show up the rival Banjar (local
spirits lurking nearby into believing that neighbourhood) by having a better ogoh-
Bali — enveloped in tranquillity and peace ogoh sculpture. As each statue is rotated
— is a deserted island. I learn that local and paraded against the other, people begin
watchmen, known as pecalang, police the to push and shove, trying to glimpse the
island to ensure these strict rules are obeyed. anarchic spectacle. Fireworks light up the
“But first, tonight, ogoh-ogoh parade!” Mr sky, while bamboo cannons and firecrackers
Padi proclaims. Ogoh-ogoh? “Parade. We go fill the air with din, flames and smoke.
now. We join parade,” he replies, grinning and It’s a spectacular contrast to the silent
adjusting his New York Yankees baseball cap. serenity that’s soon to follow. The next
Following his sure-footed lead, a group of morning, on the Day of Silence, I wake to
five of us stagger out onto the street like a the patter of rain on the thatched roof of my
YMALA :SEGAMI dazed and disorientated gaggle of geese, to hostel. As I look out across the rice terraces
find hundreds of people dressed in multi- surrounding the hostel, I feel a complete
coloured kebaya blouses, with batik-printed calm enshroud me — worlds away from the
sarong cloth wrapped around their waists. previous evening’s parade.

Indonesia 2021 13

INDONESIA

LABUAN BAJO48HOURSIN

From admiring marine marvels and blissful sunsets to seeking out the iconic
Komodo dragon, here’show to spend the perfect weekend in Labuan Bajo

WORDS: THEODORA SUTCLIFFE

Thiselahnadrb, oovuerrtlooowkninogf LthaebuvoanlcaBnaijcoipselertcshaensdonwthhietes-usannsdetastiodlelsooffIUndNoEnSeCsOia-’sliFstloedres
Komodo National Park. Part of the Coral Triangle, the world’s richest centre of
mthaerirneealriefemaonrdecthoraanl 1d,0iv0e0rssiptye,cKieosmoofdfios’hs wanadrm26w0attyeprsesnoufrtcuorrealv.iSboramnet trreaevfe. Hlleerrse,
atrhrriovuegbhy Fblooartesfr’ olumshBvaolil,caarnoiucnladn3d0s0campielsesantodtthreibwalesvti;lloatgheesr.sMjoaunrynoepytotvoeflrlyantod
Komodo International Airport. However you get there, be sure to spend at least a
couple of days exploring this natural wonderland that’s brimming with potential.

14 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel

INDONESIA

DAY 1 Komodo dragon,
Komodo National Park
Morning ABOVE: The harbour at
Labuan Bajo
Phinisi (traditional sailing boats) options LEFT: Padar island
range from luxury yachts to backpacker boats
MURUA YRREJ/AISENODNI LUFREDNOW ;YTTEG ;KAHSI NYRUAL :SEGAMI with mattresses on deck. Taka Makassar, a
swirl of icing-sugar sand lapped by turquoise
waters, is a great first stop. At nearby Manta
Point, mantas circle so that cleaner fish can
groom their skin. It’s shallow enough to
snorkel, but scuba fans will be rewarded too;
Batu Bolong, a pinnacle where sharks and
turtles are oen seen, is a classic choice.

Aernoon

Aer lunch on board, set sail for Padar, the
national park’s third-largest island. Vivid
green during Komodo’s wet season, rusty
red during drier months, its volcanic spine
fans out into dramatic peaks and narrow
promontories. More than 1,000 steps wind up
to the summit, which offers dramatic views
over bays, beaches and anchored phinisi. Be
sure to visit one of the island’s pink beaches.

Evening

Set sail for Kalong Island, where a mangrove
forest is home to thousands of flying foxes.
At sunset, bats swoop out of the dark trees,
heading for mainland Flores to feed. Dinner
on board is usually followed by stargazing
and ice-cold Bintang beers.
DON’T MISS:Abalone-shell bowls or soap
dishes in shimmering hues of black and
silver make fantastic gis while helping to
support local families.

WTaAkTa EMRakAaNssDar,WaIsLwDirLl oIFf E
itcuirnqgu-osuisgeawr saatenrds,laispapegdrebayt
first stop, while at nearby
MsoatnhtaatPcoleiannt,emr fiasnhtacsagnather
groom their skin

DAY 2 Aernoon Evening
Morning
Komodo dragons, the world’s largest lizard, Back in town, enjoy a lunch with a view. Head for sundowners at the rooop bar
can grow up to 10 long, and Komodo Taman Laut Handayani serves up seafood, of French-owned Le Pirate Beach Club
National Park was originally created to from ikan bakar (grilled fish) to sea in the heart of town. Further out, at
protect these apex predators, which are snails, alongside a range of sambals, the five-star Ayana Komodo Resort, Unique
found on just a handful of islands here. archipelago’s tasty chilli sauces. Board a Rooop Bar offers cocktails and dramatic
Head to Rinca, the park’s second-largest small boat headed for Rangko Cave, a coastal views. For dinner, try MadeInItaly for
island, for a guided hike through the forest to cavern that’s not accessible by road. A ray of outstanding Italian dishes made using
see these sluggish-seeming creatures in their sunlight pierces the grotto entrance every local ingredients.
natural habitat among the deer and boar they aernoon, infusing the waters with brilliant DON’T MISS:The Cunca Wulang cascades,
prey on. turquoise hues. a spectacular canyon waterfall.

Indonesia 2021 15

INDONESIA

GOING UNDERLIKUPANG

bLorecaatthetdaikninthgebheeloawrttohfethweaCteorraasl Titriisanabgloev,eL.ikLoucpaalndgivisejruSsutnaasrio
Ramenaung tells us about the world beneath the waves

Sunario Ramenaung been a lot of construction in the area. We’re YTTEG :SEGAMI
conscious of protecting what we have here
DIVE GUIDE, PULISAN RESORT, LIKUPANG, and aim to have as little impact on the
NORTH SULAWESI environment as possible. When you visit
Likupang — or travel anywhere in Indonesia
What was it that attracted you to a — we ask you think about reducing your
career as a dive guide? consumption of single-use plastic, bring a
reusable water bottle and always dispose
From a very young age, I was fascinated of your waste appropriately. Also, follow
by the world beneath the waves. My home, all procedures the local government and
Likupang, is in the heart of the Coral Ministry of Tourism and Creative Economy
Triangle, where 76% of the world’s coral have in place for visitors.
species and 37% of its coral reef fish species
are found. I wanted to experience this It’s so important that we work together
natural beauty at a deeper level, learn more to respect marine life when diving and
about the captivating creatures and share snorkelling. Safe and considerate divers
the wonder of the marine biodiversity with know they should never touch anything
visitors to the region. on the reef or remove any creature from
its natural home, no matter how small or
What can divers discover in insignificant it may seem. Every creature
Likupang’s waters? and piece of coral plays an important role in
the ecological health of the reef.
Pulisan Diving is located at the heart of
three distinct dive regions: the Lembeh What do you hope for the future of
Strait, Pulau Bangka and the North Sulawesi dive tourism in Indonesia?
Cap. From whitetip sharks and pygmy
seahorses to eagle rays and flamboyant I’m optimistic for the future of dive tourism
cuttlefish, our dive sites are home to a in Indonesia and hope it can be developed in
remarkable array of marine life, both large other parts of the archipelago — especially
and small. At Pantai Silar, there are several Likupang. Diving is a fantastic way to
natural hot springs bubbling beneath the promote more sustainable methods of
surface, while there’s an abundance of travelling because it’s a celebration of the
schooling fish at Sahaung. At Batu Mandi, natural environment and shows us the
meanwhile, one of the highlights is the importance of preserving what we’ve got
incredible variety of vibrant, healthy corals. for future generations. At Pulisan Resort,
These are just a few of the 100-plus dive sites divers of all levels are welcome; both SSI
in our region. and PADI dive training are on offer as well
as introductions, refreshers and speciality
How can travellers reduce their courses. Whether you’ve logged hundreds
environmental impact? of dives or have never put on a buoyancy
control device before, we’d love to share the
Likupang is well preserved by local people rich underwater world with you.
and those who have made it their home.
It’s still very untouched, and there hasn’t

16 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel

INDONESIA

LITCNOHRLOERIAEKKTEUOUMPURAATENRSFGIOTNORE

Pygmy sea horse among MIMIC OCTOPUS
red corals in Lembeh Strait Truly one of the world’s
between Sulawesi and Lembeh most mesmerising marine
CLOCKWISE FROM BELOW: creatures, the mimic octopus
is named for its ability to
Knotted sea fan and reef imitate other animals. To
manta ray, Wakatobi Dive avoid attacks from predators,
Resort, southeastern Sulawesi; the sharp-witted cephalopod
Whitetip reef shark; cuttlefish uses camouflage and
above the reef off Lembeh contorts its tentacles into
the shape of venomous or
Island, North Sulawesi unappetising creatures, such
as a lionfish or sea snake.

HAIRY FROGFISH
Divers will need a very
keen eye to spy the hairy
frogfish (also known as a
the striated frogfish). These
chameleons of the sea blend
in almost perfectly with
their surroundings as they
lie in wait for their prey;
hairy frogfish are voracious
carnivores and will eat almost
anything that passes within
reach Though they may
look monstrous, they’re a
sought-after subject of many
underwater photographers.

ORNATE GHOST PIPEFISH
The ornate ghost pipefish
is a bizarre creature — it’s
covered in filaments, has
the head of a seahorse and
a fan-shaped tail and swims
vertically. These small fish
float almost motionlessly
with their mouth facing
downwards and rival the
hairy frogfish in terms of
camouflage — they’re nearly
impossible to spot.

Indonesia 2021 17

INDONESIA

BEACHES5OFTHEBEST IN LIKUPANG

hLoocmaetetdooanzutrheesiesalasn, pdroisftSinuelabweeasci,htehseadnidstsroicmt eofoLfitkhuepwaonrgldis’s
rmicohsetsctomveatreindecboiaosdtaivlehrostitsyp.oWtse round up five of the area’s

GBEASNTGFGOARISSULNARNIDSE & SUNSET PBAESATLFBOERACSWHIMMING & WATERSPORTS AISENODNI LUFREDNOW/AYILUA YRKIF ;YTTEG ;YMALA :SEGAMI

A 20-minute boat ride from the mainland, Some of Likupang’s calmest waters can be found off this
teardrop-shaped Gangga Island is surrounded strip of pink-gold sand, making it popular with families
by forest, coconut palms and fishing villages. and thrill-seekers alike. Sometimes referred to as ‘the Bali
Its southern edge is skirted by fine white sand, of North Sulawesi’, Paal Beach is perfect for swimming,
making it the perfect spot to soak up a golden bobbing about on a banana boat, or simply relaxing with a
sunrise and lilac sunset. good book in the shade of an umbrella.

18 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel

INDONESIA

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: Wooden pier, Kenjeran Beach,
Surabaya; Pulisan Beach; Gangga Island Resort & Spa,
in the north of Sulawesi

SBUESRTAFBOARYALOBCEAACLHCUISINE

North Sulawesi is renowned for its fiery
local specialities, which are influenced by
indigenous traditions, as well as Chinese,
Dutch and Portuguese cuisines. Unlike most
of Likupang’s white-sand coastlines, Surabaya
Beach is a black-sand cove packed with small
restaurants offering local food and drink. A
must-try is pisang goreng with sambal roa: fried
banana dipped in a spicy, salty sauce flecked
with smoked roa fish.

PBUESLTISFAONRBPEAANCOHRAMIC VIEWS

Stretching across a wide cove surrounded by
grassy hills, Pulisan Beach is Likupang’s most
aesthetically pleasing. With powdery white
sand, crystalline waters and scenic cliffs,
there’s plenty here for beach-lovers. For a
panoramic view of this spectacular stretch of
coastline, hike to the top of Pulisan Hill.

BBEASHTOFIOR SCUBA DIVING

In West Likupang lies the ecotourism village of
Bahoi, where visitors can explore 70 acres of
protected mangrove forest from a suspension
bridge or don diving gear to discover a
colourful underwater world. As Sulawesi is
part of the Coral Triangle, one of the world’s
most biodiverse marine environments, Bahoi’s
reefs teem with vibrant sea life, such as pygmy
seahorses and blue-ringed octopuses.

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NATIONALGEOGRAPHIC.CO.UK/TRAVEL